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The Argument for an Off-Season Portugal Trip

Seafood platters, coastal towns, and cave tours..

ny times travel portugal

Everyone knows that person who spends weeks sniffing around travel blogs, going deep into Tripadvisor rabbit holes, collecting Google docs from friends of friends, and creating  A Beautiful Mind– style spreadsheets to come up with the best  vacations   and   itineraries possible. In this recurring series, we find those people who’ve done all the work for you and have them walk us through a particularly wonderful, especially well-thought-out vacation they took that you can actually steal.

Ariel Arce , owner of Tokyo Record Bar and Niche Niche, prefers to visit southern Europe during the off-season. She and her best friend (and partner in the founding of CaviAIR), Michelle Double, like to take easygoing road trips through seaside towns when they’re not mobbed by tourists. This past March, the pair headed to Portugal, during which they slowly meandered from Lisbon to the southern reaches of the country. Arce admits that her vacations “end up being these crazy drudges” of nonstop activities — filled with cave exploring, cliffside rock scrambling, and scootering around — which is why she highly recommends renting a boat for a day in the Algarve.

11 a.m.: Scoot around Lisbon

We flew on a red-eye from New York and upon landing in Lisbon headed straight to the Hertz counter to pick up our car rental for the week: a gunmetal Mercedes convertible. Michelle and I love driving. Give us a fast luxury car, throw us the keys, and see ya! But because it was still quite early in the day, we decided to explore Lisbon for a few hours before our drive south. We hit up the legendary seafood restaurant Ramiro ( Av. Alm. Reis 1 H, 1150-007 ) and ordered a massive plate of prawns, some crusty bread to dip into the garlicky sauce they’re cooked in, and a couple of beers.

ny times travel portugal

We wanted to work off the beer so we rented scooters from the Uber app and giggled our way around Lisbon. We toured along the water promenade all the way out to the western district of Alcantara to check out LxFactory ( R. Rodrigues de Faria 103, 1300-501 ), a modern outdoor food and shopping complex under one of the city’s many bridges. And then for absolutely conflicting vibes, we zoomed our way back into downtown Lisbon and up the steep cobblestone streets of Alfama, where we grabbed a caffeine pick-me-up at Copenhagen Coffee Lab ( Escolas Gerais 34, 1100-213 ).

ny times travel portugal

5 p.m.: Settle into your eco villa and order pizza

ny times travel portugal

By the time we reached our hotel for the night, it had been a long day so we decided to take it easy, and Villa Epicurea ( R. do Casalinho 5A, 2970-052 ) — a 45-minute drive south of Lisbon — was the ideal place to do that. The property is tucked away into a forest that overlooks the water, and we stayed in one of their minimally decorated one-bedroom houses. We aren’t really “shared space” gals, but it was nice to see like-minded travelers at the pool or in the main house where you can cook a meal together. If you don’t want to make your own food (we didn’t), what’s cool about the Villa Epicurea is they have a board filled with places you can get delivery from. We ordered two pies from a local pizza place: Both had a super crispy thin crust, but one was a margherita and the other was a white pie with arugula and pistachio, which was pretty incredible.

Eco-lodge Villa Epicurea

12 p.m.: Eat ceviche at a beach club in Comporta

Before we set off for the Algarve, we stopped by Comporta, a chic little beach town with waterfront restaurants and hotels, and an adorable downtown. It’s got a rustic vibe, too, because of the rice fields that surround all the development.

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We had lunch at Sublime Comporta Beach Club ( Praia do Carvalhal, 7570-782 ). The seafood on the menu was just exquisite. We gorged ourselves on ruby red tiger shrimp, oysters, and whatever ceviche they were serving at the time (with fish sourced from the Azores). In between dishes, we would walk around the sand and dip our toes in the water. (It was cold Atlantic water, but a few moments doesn’t hurt.) Everyone here is an angel. As soon as our waiter found out that I love spicy things, I had three different hot sauces in front of me, including the chef’s personal stash from Nepal.

3 p.m.: Take coastal routes to the Algarve

The drive down to our resort in the Algarve should have taken about two hours if we stuck to the most straightforward route per Google Maps, but we tried to take as many coastal roads as possible, avoiding highways whenever we could so it took closer to three hours. But we also found ourselves driving through these stunning, dense forest roads that feel the way islands do when they’re by the water; there’s lots of sand, very tropical-esque foliage, and a quickly changing terrain. Everything looked wild and beautiful. It was definitely more of a casual drive. We were in no rush.

6 p.m.: Check into a massive resort

Vila Vita Parc Resort & Spa ( R. Anneliese Pohl, 8400-450 ) is a sprawling compound centered around a private beach, pools, a few restaurants, sports complexes, and a wellness center. For girls from a big city, a resort vacation wasn’t what we came for, but frankly, we didn’t want to leave. It was pretty stunning. We booked an apartment-style condo, which is a bit farther away from the main hub of the resort. This was the first time on our trip — after flying, driving, exploring — when we really started to relax.

To close out the day, we didn’t want to have a crazy dinner, but we did go to the main bar of the resort to indulge in a few too many gin-and-tonics by the fireplace.

Vila Vita Parc Resort & Spa

12 p.m.: Explore the seaside towns of the Algarve

We had a late start to the day, but that’s just the vibe down here in the Algarve, which isn’t very big so you can accomplish a lot of sightseeing in a short amount of time. Our first stop was Sagres, which is stuffed into the southwest corner of Portugal. It’s a very windy area and known for some of the best surfing in the world. We drove to Fortaleza de Sagres , which really feels like the end of the earth. All you see is water. We walked the coastline watching a bunch of people hit the waves.

There is a killer restaurant on the ocean called Boia Bar ( R. dos Pescadores 101, 8650-199 ), in the tiny town of Budens, which is just 15 minutes east of Sagres. We ordered a massive bowl of razor clams and their famed Portuguese shrimp, cooked in chili, garlic, and olive oil galore (kind of like a piri-piri sauce).

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3 p.m.: Pick up ceramics and straw bags in Lagos

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Lagos is one of the larger small towns and is far less sleepy than most of the other spots we hit on this adventure. It was great to walk around and get a taste for the colorful tile buildings that you won’t ever tire of when you’re in Portugal.

There’s some shopping to be had, too, and I ended up getting seduced into buying what looked like Ugg knockoffs at this cute store called Tamar ( R. António Barbosa Viana 14 16, 8600-677 ), which stocks a ton of locally made merch like straw bags and ceramic housewares. Then, our next stop was just outside town: Ponta de Piedade, these golden rock formations jutting out of the water. We did attempt to scamper around some of them. It got a bit wild so I would suggest wearing sturdy, comfortable shoes.

If you don’t want to stay at a big resort like we did, I would recommend the stylish Casa Māe ( R. do Jogo da Bola 41, 8600-712 ) here in Lagos.

ny times travel portugal

8 p.m.: Order a local fish platter

Vila Vita’s Japanese restaurant had a platter of different types of local fish, most of it was white fish, but they also had salmon and tuna that were sourced from the Azores. The chef even showed us the tags of the fish. We tossed these back with vodka martinis.

10 a.m.: Sail around the Algarve

When we were figuring out what we wanted to do on this trip, we knew we really wanted to rent a boat, and that’s one of the main reasons we booked Vila Vita; they have a yacht . The rate is around $1,000 for a full day, and you can have up to 8 people on the boat.

Our captains were spectacular. They’ve been doing this for 30 years. But in addition to all that experience, they had such a great sense of humor. They were telling us all these crazy stories about the people they’ve taken on tours — including some pretty famous names. We had a couple of bottles of white wine, some grilled veggies, and, of course, pasteis de nata , the iconic egg custards. And then for several hours, we sailed around the coast visiting some of the Algarve’s most jaw-dropping spots.

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We stopped at a bunch of different places: Praia de Carvoeiro, Marinha Beach, Arco Natural. But the best part was touring the 50-odd caves that are just outside the fishing village of Benagil . Our captains threw us into this dingy, and from there we just went exploring. It was kind of intense to see them maneuver this little thing in and out of tiny spaces as the tide was coming up and down, and you really think you’re going to run into these caves. And some of the caves would be totally pitch black while others would be bright and blue and there was one with a giant hole that looked up to the sky.

You can drive to all these different sights, of course, but the perspective you get from the water is just unbelievable. It was one of the highlights of our trip. I’ll never forget it.

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5 p.m.: Arrive at a fancy farm hotel

After a full day out at sea, we couldn’t wait to retreat to our next hotel, Vila Monte Farm House ( Calicos Site, 8700-069 ), which is located in the eastern half of the Algarve. Very close to the border with Spain, this part of the country is entirely less manicured than the western side, which is where a lot of the big luxury resorts are. But Vila Monte is just fabulous. The property, which is surrounded by fragrant olive groves, citrus trees, and the shocking pink of bougainvillea, is mostly white with these stunning pops of blues and greens. It’s very serene and rustic-chic. The pools were beautiful, too. It really looked like it was plucked out of Ojai.

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For dinner, we decided to stay at the hotel. We ordered some beautifully grilled fish, and they also had fantastic pizza. Plus, you can drink your cocktails out on the lawn — paradise for two New Yorkers.

Vila Monte Farm House

9 a.m.: Stretch before breakfast

The hotel offers a lot of daily activities. So we woke up early to take Pilates and then enjoyed a lovely breakfast of local Portuguese fruits, charcuterie, some fantastic bread, and every nut milk you can imagine.

1 p.m.: People-watch in the plaza

It takes less than two hours to drive the entire width of Portugal’s southern coast, but there are so many adorable places to visit. We started as far east as possible in Vila Real de Santo António , which is right on the border of Spain. It’s designed like a mini Lisbon and has this beautiful plaza that’s perfect for people-watching. We strolled around, marveling at the collection of buildings covered in gorgeous tiles of blues and greens. We popped into A Loja da Maria ( Rua Jornal do Algarve 63 ), a home decor shop where we found ceramics that looked almost spotted in a cool tie-dye way. Then we drove to Altura, which reminded us a bit of a sleepy Jersey Shore town: It’s a very chill place, great for walking along the beach picking up seashells along the way.

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4 p.m.: Snack on French cheese and Portuguese wine

Our last stop was Tavira , which is one of the more popular towns in eastern Algarve. The waterside promenade and beautifully manicured gardens make Tavira stand out from neighboring towns; they make it feel bigger, grander than a beach town, like you’re in a small-but-historic European city.

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We were just scoping out the scene on foot, and Tchin-Cheese ( R. da Liberdade 24, 8800-329 ) caught our eye. It’s a cute little wine-and-cheese shop (maybe four tables) from a French expat. It felt so different from any other restaurant that we had eaten at in Portugal up to that point. We got to chatting with the owner, who picked out a cheese platter and some natural local wines for us to try. Yes, a cheese-and-wine pairing is so trite, but it’s my favorite thing in the world, and we really vibed with the owner, whose taste is out of this world. We sat with him outside for longer than we expected. But when he recommended O Tonel ( R. Dr. Augusto da Silva Carvalho 6, 8800-650 ) for a dinner of simply prepared octopus and more Portuguese white wine, we happily obliged.

Ariel’s Portugal packing list

Supergoop Unseen Sunscreen SPF 40

Even though the day we went out on the boat was overcast and a cool 60 degrees, we could still have gotten sunburned. It’s better to be safe than sorry. Supergoop’s Unseen Sunscreen is so weightless that you don’t even know you’re wearing it.

Nike Air Force 1 '07

In this modern day, you can wear a pair of white Air Force 1s to dinner or when you’re out scaling rock formations in southern Portugal. And if you get them dirty, just wash them when you get home. I never travel without a pair.

Corpus Natural Deodorant

A lightly scented deodorant does wonders when out exploring all day. Or when you don’t feel like taking a shower after taking a Pilates class.

Bacon Puffa Ring WLT Black

You never know what the weather will be like during the off-season. My lightweight puffer jacket from Bacon came in handy the night we were in Tavira. It was a gorgeous day but as the sun set, and it got chilly, I just pulled it out of my bag. It rolls up without wrinkling.

Some rolling luggage we've written about

Amazon Basics Hardside Carry-on Spinner Suitcase

The Strategist is designed to surface the most useful, expert recommendations for things to buy across the vast e-commerce landscape. Some of our latest conquests include the best acne treatments , rolling luggage , pillows for side sleepers , natural anxiety remedies , and bath towels . We update links when possible, but note that deals can expire and all prices are subject to change.

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Americans Can Travel to Portugal Starting Today

Travelers will need to show proof of a negative COVID-19 test upon departure.

ny times travel portugal

Portugal reopened to U.S. tourists on Tuesday, welcoming them with pre-arrival testing, according to the U.S. Embassy & Consulate in Portugal.

Americans who test negative for COVID-19 before their trip will now be allowed to visit the cobblestone streets and elaborate tile-lined buildings that paint Lisbon, and sip local wines amid the rolling hills of the Algarve region.

All travelers will need to show proof of a negative nucleic acid amplification test (NAAT), like a PCR test, taken within 72 hours of their trip or a negative rapid antigen test taken within 24 hours of their trip, according to the embassy . Children under two years old are exempt.

The decision to keep borders open to Americans will be reviewed every two weeks.

Additionally, anyone 12 and older who wants to travel to the Azores (even from within Portugal) must show proof of a negative COVID-19 test taken within 72 hours of their departure to the islands, show proof they contracted the virus and recovered, or get tested upon arrival and isolate until a negative result is available. Travelers then have to get tested again on the sixth day of their trip.

Those headed to Madeira must also show proof of a negative coronavirus test taken within 72 hours of their trip, show proof they are vaccinated, or show proof they contracted the virus and recovered.

In Portugal, cafes and restaurants are open, but limited to groups of six people indoors and 10 people outdoors, according to the embassy. Stores are open as well, but have a curfew of 9 p.m. on weekdays and 7 p.m. on weekends, and alcohol can only be sold in all establishments until 8 p.m.

Portugal, known for its beautiful beaches , requires masks to be worn while walking on the sand, but allows people to drop them when sitting on their towels.

So far, 44% of people in Portugal have received at least one dose of a COVID-19 vaccine and 22.9% are fully vaccinated, according to Reuters , which is tracking vaccine progress around the world.

Portugal's opening comes just over a week after neighboring Spain started welcoming vaccinated American tourists , requiring them to test negative for the coronavirus in addition to showing proof of their vaccination. Several other European countries have also opened their borders to U.S. tourists in recent weeks, including France, Denmark , Greece , and Italy .

Alison Fox is a contributing writer for Travel + Leisure. When she's not in New York City, she likes to spend her time at the beach or exploring new destinations and hopes to visit every country in the world. Follow her adventures on Instagram .

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Comet Fragment Explodes in Dark Skies Over Spain and Portugal

A brilliant flash of blue, green and white on Saturday night came from a shard of an as yet unidentified comet that was moving around 100,000 miles per hour, experts said.

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By Robin George Andrews

Robin George Andrews has previously reported on fireball sightings over Northern Europe and Greenland .

On Saturday, revelers across Spain and Portugal ventured into the temperate springtime evening, hoping for a memorable night. None were expecting a visitor from outer space exploding above their heads.

At 11:46 p.m. in Portugal, a fireball streaked across the sky, leaving a smoldering trail of incandescent graffiti in its wake. Footage shared on social media shows jaws dropping as the dark night briefly turns into day, blazing in shades of snowy white, otherworldly green and arctic blue .

Rocky asteroids cause sky-high streaks as they self-destruct in Earth’s atmosphere with some frequency. But over the weekend, the projectile was plunging toward Earth at a remarkable speed — around 100,000 miles per hour, more than twice that expected by a typical asteroid. Experts say it had a strange trajectory, not matching the sort normally taken by nearby space rocks.

That’s because the interloper wasn’t an asteroid. It was a fragment of a comet — an icy object that may have formed at the dawn of the solar system — that lost its battle with our planet’s atmosphere 37 miles above the Atlantic Ocean. None of the object is likely to have made it to the ground, the European Space Agency said.

“It’s an unexpected interplanetary fireworks show,” said Meg Schwamb , a planetary astronomer at Queen’s University Belfast.

It is not rare for comets to create shooting stars. “We have notable meteor showers throughout the year, which are the result of the Earth crossing debris clouds of specific comets,” Dr. Schwamb said. For example, the Perseids , which occur every August, are the result of our world’s sweeping through litter left behind by Comet Swift-Tuttle.

These meteor showers, and the lone shard over the weekend, light up the sky in a similar manner. Air in front of the objects is compressed and heats up, which cooks, erodes, cracks open and obliterates the debris. That destructive process releases light — and, if the projectile is big enough, a powerful shock wave when it surrenders its immense kinetic energy into the sky.

The weekend’s “chunk is likely a bit bigger than a good fraction of the meteors we see during meteor showers, so this just made a bigger light show,” Dr. Schwamb said.

In addition to its flashy performance, the comet fragment’s breakup served as a dry run for experts hoping to defend the planet from large killer asteroids .

One tenet of planetary defense is to find space rocks before they find us; that way, the planet’s protectors can try to do something about them . But the shard over Portugal and Spain was not spied before its demise.

“It would have been great to detect the object prior to colliding with the Earth,” said Juan Luis Cano , a member of the Planetary Defence Office at the European Space Agency.

The worry is that an object just a little larger than Saturday’s missile could again escape detection and explode with lethal effect over an unaware, unwarned city. The meager, 55-foot meteor that exploded above the Russian city of Chelyabinsk in 2013, for example, wasn’t identified before its arrival, either — and its airborne blast, equivalent to nearly 500,000 tons of TNT, caused widespread damage, which injured at least 1,200 people.

But with improved technology on the ground and in space, the hope is that even tiny, harmless objects from around the solar system (like the weekend’s icy visitor, which experts estimate was a few feet across) can be spotted, providing practice for planetary defense researchers searching the heavens for the common but elusive football-field-size rocks that could destroy a city.

Fortunately, a series of next-generation observatories are set to come online in the next few years — including one named after an American astronomer, the Vera C. Rubin Observatory in Chile , which will spot millions of faint and previously undiscovered asteroids .

For now, the spectacle in Spain and Portugal reminds us that Earth is a participant in the solar system’s never-ending game of planetary billiards, and that working to find as many killer space rocks as possible is a task of the utmost importance.

What’s Up in Space and Astronomy

Keep track of things going on in our solar system and all around the universe..

Never miss an eclipse, a meteor shower, a rocket launch or any other 2024 event  that’s out of this world with  our space and astronomy calendar .

A dramatic blast from the sun  set off the highest-level geomagnetic storm in Earth’s atmosphere, making the northern lights visible around the world .

With the help of Google Cloud, scientists who hunt killer asteroids churned through hundreds of thousands of images of the night sky to reveal 27,500 overlooked space rocks in the solar system .

A celestial image, an Impressionistic swirl of color in the center of the Milky Way, represents a first step toward understanding the role of magnetic fields  in the cycle of stellar death and rebirth.

Scientists may have discovered a major flaw in their understanding of dark energy, a mysterious cosmic force . That could be good news for the fate of the universe.

Is Pluto a planet? And what is a planet, anyway? Test your knowledge here .

What Portugal is like now: The 10 most frequently asked questions about my visit

Chris Dong

The fluid nature of travel restrictions has completely changed how I plan and book trips.

When Portugal announced its reopening to tourists on June 25, I jumped on the opportunity to visit as a fully vaccinated American. However, COVID-19 has (again) drastically changed from my booking date to my arrival date -- less than three weeks later.

On July 15, I arrived in the country to a variety of new protocols to stem the spread of the Delta variant . That included a nightly curfew in popular tourist areas, implementation of an EU vaccine passport, procedures for checking into accommodations (including hotels and Airbnbs) and indoor dining restrictions on weekends.

For more TPG news delivered each morning to your inbox, sign up for our free daily newsletter .

Now that it has been several days in Portugal, I've experienced these ever-changing rules in practice. (Be on the lookout in the coming weeks about my full road trip itinerary, including hotel reviews).

I've received hundreds of questions over email, Twitter and Instagram about what it's like to visit right now. Here's a quick run-down of some of the most popular questions, including answers based on current regulations (as of July 19).

For the most up-to-date COVID-19 protocols, I recommend checking with your accommodations directly, the Visit Portugal website, and the U.S. Embassy website .

Related: Why I packed 8 COVID-19 tests to fly to Portugal — and what it's like to enter now

What are the COVID-19 rules for entering Portugal?

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All travelers headed to Portugal must provide proof of a negative nucleic acid amplification test (NAAT), such as a PCR test, taken within 72 hours before boarding. Rapid tests are also accepted but must be performed within 48 hours of boarding.

As of July 12, Portuguese authorities will now also accept the EU Digital COVID Certificate , giving EU residents a uniform way to provide proof of full vaccination against COVID-19, negative PCR or antigen tests or recovery from COVID-19.

However, it's not currently accessible to U.S. travelers in Europe, nor has a digital equivalent has been introduced yet in the U.S. That means, even if you're fully vaccinated, you must still show a negative COVID-19 test to enter Portugal.

In practice, my negative rapid test result was verified at check-in but not checked again upon arrival.

Related: Reopening Europe: When can you visit again? A country-by-country guide .

Can I get an EU Digital COVID certificate as a non-EU resident?

Under official guidelines, it is currently not possible for non-EU residents to get the EU Digital COVID Certificate.

If you are a fully vaccinated resident in Portugal, most pharmacies in Portugal can give you a personalized QR code upon verifying your status. From there, you download an app and scan the code to receive your certificate.

Related: Everything you need to know about Europe's vaccine passports

What is the procedure for checking into a hotel or Airbnb?

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Across all of Portugal, accommodations — including hotels and Airbnbs — must check for valid COVID-19 criteria before you can check-in.

What you'll need

  • Within 72 hours of check-in time: Negative PCR test
  • Within 48 hours of check-in time : Negative rapid antigen test with lab report
  • Within 24 hours of check-in time: Negative rapid antigen test (must be in the presence of a health or pharmaceutical professional who certifies result)
  • At check-in
  • Negative rapid antigen self-test carried out at the door of the establishment (must be under the supervision of a person on-premises)
  • Showing your EU Digital COVID Certificate

The unofficial policy

Unofficially, many accommodations are accepting the U.S. CDC vaccination card or other digital vaccine passports .

I've stayed at three hotels thus far in Portugal and have managed to check in based on my initial negative COVID-19 test taken in the U.S. or my paper CDC vaccine card.

However, as of July 19, this is not the official policy. If you're fully vaccinated and do not have the EU Digital Health Certificate, I highly recommend reaching out to your accommodation to see if another form of verification is accepted.

What about children under 12?

Children under 12 years old, when accompanied by an adult, are exempt from all testing and travel requirements.

Where can I get a COVID-19 test? Do hotels provide them?

ny times travel portugal

First, COVID-19 testing is plentiful and fairly easy to access in Portugal. However, tests are not always available at a hotel (especially since this regulation began recently, in mid-July).

I have checked into three hotels thus far, and only two of the three properties offered rapid tests at check-in. Even then, your hotel might have a limited supply and/or could charge for it.

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Related: Travelers can now buy CDC-approved at-home COVID-19 tests for just $50

Another option is to bring your own test kits from the U.S., which should be accepted throughout the country. I purchased several kits at a CVS in the U.S. and brought them along -- just to be safe.

Any pharmacy in Portugal will also sell you an at-home rapid test kit. Alternatively, you can do a test at the pharmacy. Many locations offer a PCR or rapid test, but you may need to book an appointment. Here's information about COVID-19 testing in Portugal .

You can also call the mainland Portugal hotline: (+ 351) 808 24 24 24 (Press 9 for English).

Important note: Most rapid self-test kits with a negative result -- such as the ones pictured above -- are not valid for re-entering the U.S. Here are the only CDC-approved at-home rapid kits that the U.S. accepts for reentry.

What happens if you test positive while in Portugal?

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If you test positive at hotel check-in, you'll be forced to quarantine for 10 days in an isolated part of the property.

You do not have to quarantine in a government-mandated facility. However, you may have to foot the entire bill for the period of quarantine, as it is up to your hotel or other accommodation.

Related: What happens if you test positive for COVID-19 and can't fly back to the US?

Can I dine or drink indoors in Portugal?

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Yes. Indoor and outdoor dining are available.

However, for several dozen municipalities deemed "high-risk" or "very high-risk" by Portuguese authorities -- including the tourist zones of Lisbon, Porto and the Algarve -- indoor restaurants and bars are restricted during the following periods.

  • Fridays after 7 pm
  • Saturdays and Sundays all-day
  • Public holidays

If you want to eat or drink indoors during these times, the official rules are the same as checking in to a hotel or Airbnb. As a reminder:

  • Within 72 hours of entering: Negative PCR test
  • Within 48 hours of entering : Negative rapid antigen test with lab report
  • Within 24 hours of entering: Negative rapid antigen test (must be in the presence of a health or pharmaceutical professional who certifies result)
  • At the door:

Again, unofficially, some restaurants will also accept a CDC vaccine card. At two restaurants, I was able to show my paper CDC vaccine card to dine indoors.

What is open in Portugal?

ny times travel portugal

In those districts that are "very high-risk" or "high-risk," there is a nightly curfew between 11 pm and 6 am the next day. As mentioned above, that includes popular tourist areas such as Lisbon, Porto and the Algarve.

Restaurants close at 10:30 pm and kitchens for ordering close around 10 pm. In addition, shows and entertainment are not allowed after 10.30 pm.

Grocery stores and retail shops are open until 9 pm during the week. Grocery stores shut at 7 pm while retail shops can only stay open until 3.30 p.m. on weekends and public holidays.

Do I have to wear a mask in Portugal?

Yes. Masks are mandatory in Portugal, including on public transit. In practice, I observed many mask-less pedestrians while outdoors in Lisbon, so it doesn't appear to be strictly enforced outdoors. However, masks indoors are almost universally worn.

Related: Traveling to Portugal: 7 things to know before you go

Is it worth coming to Portugal now?

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The curfew isn't ideal. Testing can be a hassle. And, of course, there is the risk of contracting COVID-19.

But as a seasoned traveler, I have no regrets about being here thus far.

The rules at hotel check-in and at restaurants on weekends have not been an issue. In fact, I haven't needed to even open my rapid at-home test kits yet and have gotten by with my initial negative test in the U.S. and CDC vaccine card so far.

While you certainly will not have the same experience as before the pandemic, there are also upsides to all of the restrictions that are in place.

I've rarely encountered other Americans. Tourist attractions -- at least in Lisbon -- feel decidedly emptier than the last time I was in the city several years ago. Most of all, it just feels good to be traveling internationally again.

Of course, as with all of these things, traveling is a very personal decision.

Related: 13 of the most beautiful villages in Portugal

Bottom line

Portugal is as beautiful as it has ever been. It's now even more unspoiled with fewer tourists.

However, if you want to travel here in the near future, you have to be willing to navigate an ever-changing labyrinth of rules and restrictions. That's not particularly unique to Portugal -- it's the case for traveling almost anywhere internationally right now.

Be as flexible as you can with your plans, and realize that the unexpected may occur. If that's alright with you, Portugal is currently open. Just bring a healthy appetite, a good camera and extra space in your suitcase to bring home wine.

For my detailed experience entering Portugal, read my story here .

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Portugal Is Scrambling To Save Vacation Season From New COVID-19 Strains

Headshot of Joanna Kakissis

Joanna Kakissis

As new COVID-19 strains threaten southern Europe's summer of recovery, tourism-reliant countries are scrambling to save vacation season while adapting their hospitality industries to the uncertainty.

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Traveler

The New York Times travels to Portugal

In 2007, the famous newspaper The New York Times reported ten times on Portugal in its travel section, as much as the sum of the previous five years, analyzed the polyco newspaper, and considered Lisbon to be the second largest destination in the world. leaving neighboring Spain, represented by Malaga, in 45th place.

The overview is that of a modern but authentic Portugal, with creative spaces, charm and avant-garde, not to mention traditions Could the Portuguese Presidency in the EU and the devaluation of the euro against the dollar justify interest, what help and how to change the country’s external image.

  • He says the inn and Marvo Castle are “A Village in the Sky.
  • ” “FairyTale Mirage.
  • “Cascais is not interested in the beach.
  • But the Farol Design Hotel and the modernist collection of the Ellipse Foundation.
  • Hotel and restaurant Valdonas can be rented in Guimares.

In Aveiro, the fishing heritage is rotated by the University, the free bike, the Black Market cultural area, the Clandestino bar, the Miyabi and Doce Pimenta shops or the Hotel Moliceiro.

Porto crosses the classic Sé Catedral, the “dramatic bridges”. Gustave Eiffel and his disciples or the wineries of Porto with the cosmopolitanism of Casa da Msica, the Serralves Foundation, Favela Chic, Shade, the Chocolate Clube, the restaurants Foz Velha and Kool and the culture of the Maus Hobitos space.

The Douro World Heritage Site is?Mandatory?for wine lovers and lovers of a good bed and a good table, with the restaurant Aquapura, Casas do Coro, Quinta da Romaneira or the restaurant Douro In.

In addition to the hidden places of Pousadas de Portugal, Lisbon stays with the design hotels Jeronimos 8 and Fontana Park, the MUDE and Berardo museums, the decoration of Reverso and Santos da Casa, the club on the left, the restaurants Estado Liquido, Santos de Lisboa and Yasmin.

Have you noticed? Traditional destinations such as the Algarve or Madeira are ignored in the list. Get ready: the new tourist trend has arrived.

The best way to help Travel Soul stay alive and ad-free is to use the affiliate links I provide in this article to make your reservations. It’s the same for you and you don’t pay a penny more, but for me, it makes all the difference in particular:

Find the best flights on Skyscanner. In the search results, preferably choose the airline.

Look for the best hotels in Booking. com, this is where I make my reservations.

Don’t forget to take out IATI Seguros travel insurance (using this link you get a discount of 5%) World Nomads (5% discount using FMGOME5 code). It’s better to travel rested.

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Why Algarve, Portugal, Should Be on Your Must-Visit List

By Lindsay Lambert Day

Praia Marinha Lagoa

If you’ve scrolled through Instagram within the last year or so, then you already know that Portugal is the place to go. It has turned up on more must-visit lists lately than nearly anywhere else. And no wonder—the sun-soaked, western sliver of southern Europe has much to offer: rich culture, beautiful architecture, and a dazzling culinary scene. (Not to mention the well-styled hotels that are the stuff of social media dreams.) While scores of travelers are drawn to the vibrant cities of Lisbon and Porto , would-be visitors should also look to the south—namely, the Algarve region —for an under the radar coastal retreat that’s full of authentic Portuguese pleasures.

Although equal in beauty to neighboring Mediterranean mainstays like Majorca and St.-Tropez , the Algarve is still enjoying relative obscurity—but with glittering new resorts popping up along the coastline, a handful of Michelin-starred restaurants, and a delicious type of wine you won’t find anywhere else, it’s only a matter of time before that’s no longer the case.

Tivoli Carvoeiro Algarve Resorts outdoor swimming pool

What to Do Beaches are the biggest draw, with more than 150 rolling out their wide, golden shores like welcome mats. Many are bordered by craggy rock cliffs and caves for an extra photogenic effect. Falesia and São Rafael beaches, both in Albufeira, see their fair share of sunbathers, and Praia da Amoreira, in Aljezur, is a sweet spot for surfers, thanks to its abundant waves. If you’re searching for that quintessential crescent of Algarvian sand, make your way to Praia da Marinha in Lagoa, one of the Algarve’s most celebrated beaches. But rather than drive right up, arrive via the cliff top walk that starts at Praia do Vale de Centeanes in Carvoeiro, some three-and-a-half miles away. Carvoeiro makes an excellent base for a day of beach hopping: The new oceanfront Tivoli Carvoeiro Algarve Resort opened in April after a major five-star renovation, and its chic spa debuted in June. Head to the resort’s new Skybar to drink in the view as the sun sets over the Atlantic, but not before enjoying Vale de Covo Beach, an otherworldly sight with crystal-clear water, rock cliffs, and an iconic cave.

The Atlantic coast isn't the only place to enjoy the water in the Algarve. Ria Formosa nature park , with its lagoons, sand dunes, islands, marshes, and mudflats, makes for exceptional hiking and spotting wildlife.

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Anantara Vilamoura

What to Eat and Drink The Algarve is awash in sunshine for nearly 3,000 hours each year. And with cool Atlantic waters lapping at the region’s shores and an eastern mountain border blocking out hot, dry winds from the north, growing conditions for fresh, flavorful fruits, vegetables, and herbs are excellent. The new Anantara Vilamoura resort serves plenty of Algarvian-grown goodness: Guests checking in are welcomed with glasses of sweet carob and shockingly bright orange juice, as well as almonds and figs grown on site. Lunches at the resort’s poolside restaurant Ria begin with plump local olives and tender, herb-marinated carrots, plus bowlfuls of fragrant olive oil and tangy, spiced tomato spread waiting to be mopped up with pillowy homemade bread. And that’s all before the menus arrive. Softball-size oranges are so abundant on the property that attendants at the adults-only pool flit from one lounge chair to the next proffering whole fruits—peeled, if you prefer—to enjoy while soaking up the sun.

Local foods at Ria restaurant

Seafood is another of the Algarve’s culinary stars—from clams bathed in oil and garlic to grilled whole line-caught fish to fillets of crisp-skinned sea bass. For that most sought-after of Algarvian treats, octopus, everyone seems to agree that there are only two places to go— Casa do Polvo Tasquinha and Polvo & Companhia , both of which are located in the “octopus capital of the world,” Santa Luzia, roughly 36 miles to the east. To earn bragging rights and to impress even your most intrepid foodie friends, make your way west to Café Correia in Vila do Bispo. There, order up a cold Portuguese Super Bock beer or a glass of vinho verde and a plate of goose barnacles, the area’s prized local delicacy. Called “percebes” by locals, the crustaceans grow on slippery, wave-battered boulders in the ocean, which means they can’t be farmed. Instead, they’re hand-harvested by local fishermen in a dangerous, by-permit-only process. Translation: They’re pricey—but it will be Euros well-spent.

Bon Bon

It’s not hard to imagine that the Algarve’s bountiful supply of earthly and aquatic ingredients might have something to do with the fact that there are six Michelin-starred restaurants in the region. In quaint Carvoeiro, chef Rui Silvestre’s Bon Bon is a perfect example. Silvestre’s Atlantic lobster (served with organic egg yolk and imperial caviar) is so fresh, it still tastes like the sea, and his elegant white asparagus—paired with cumin and a São Jorge cheese aged for 24 months—might just make you well up. Although a Michelin-starred restaurant might not be the best place to break out your iPhone, we admit that Bon Bon’s tasting menu (four or six courses, with or without wine pairings) will give you plenty of material to make your friends back home jealous. Starting in September, if you fly TAP to Portugal, your Michelin-starred experience can begin before you even touch down: The airline will serve dishes from five Portuguese Michelin-starred chefs—Silvestre, Henrique Sá Pessoa, José Avillez, Miguel Laffan, and Rui Paula—to give passengers a preview of Portugal’s haute cuisine.

Cabrita Wines

Some 300 to 350 indigenous varieties of grapes grow in Portugal, and as a result, you can toss a cork in any direction and hit a bottle of delicious, locally produced wine. Negra Mole grapes, however, grow exclusively in the Algarve, and they’re used to produce a gentle, drinkable red that hits the palate like a Pinot Noir. For a taste, head to Cabrita Wines in sleepy Silves. The winery, which was founded in 2007 and produces whites, reds, and rosés, offers tastings in a second-floor space that’s replete with polished wood and beautiful vineyard views. Also in your tasting lineup: Moscatel and Arinto—two more wines made from native grapes. Save room in your suitcase, because you’ll want to bring back a bottle or two.

How Black travelers are reclaiming Portugal

Despite its role in the birth of the transatlantic slave trade, Lisbon is drawing Black Americans looking to escape racism at home.

Two women embrace after throwing flowers into the Tagus river at the end of a ceremony to remember the victims of the Atlantic slave trade.

In Lisbon ’s bairro das novas nações , the neighborhood of new nations, each street is named after a former Portuguese colony: Rua de Angola, Rua de Moçambique, Rua da Guiné, Rua de Cabo Verde.

“Ah, Cabo Verde,” I say to my guide, Djuzé Neves, “your homeland.” Though that’s not entirely accurate—Neves was born and raised in Lisbon—his parents hail from Santiago Island, the largest in the Cape Verdean archipelago. Climate refugees fleeing drought, they found solace in Lisbon’s embrace.

People walk through Sao Domingos

For Neves, this neighborhood embodies more than just geography; it’s a beacon of community-driven resilience. As a board member of Batoto Yetu , an organization nurturing African heritage among underprivileged youth, Neves invests his time in cultivating cultural pride.

I’ve come to Lisbon exactly for neighborhoods like novas nações, a liberating space to escape the rising tide of racial and political stress I’ve been experiencing in the United States. I’m not alone.

On social media, countless Black travelers share tales of feeling marginalized and impotent in the face of systemic racism and police brutality, prompting a surge in overseas travel in search of historical significance, cultural diversity, and a relaxed atmosphere.

Avenida da Liberdade is an important avenue in central Lisbon. It is paved with Portuguese pavement which consists of small flat pieces of various different stones, arranged to form a pattern or picture, like a mosaic

It’s not new, this practice of African Americans traveling to foreign lands for a respite from the challenges and frustrations that come with being Black in America. In the 1920s and ’30s, the Soviet Union became an attractive place to visit and explore because it promised a raceless, classless society . In Lisbon and other cities such as Paris , Dubai , and Amsterdam , travelers find memorials and tours that acknowledge the trauma of the slave trade and programs that explore cultural heritage.

Where the slave trade started

I meet Madisyn Brown , a Black 22-year-old video essayist, on the flight from New York to Lisbon. She tells me that her great-great-grandmother was from Portugal. “But no one in my family has been to Portugal despite that connection,” she says.

On the final day of her trip, I reconnect with Brown for a drink on Avenida da Liberdade, a sun-drenched, tree-lined street with wide sidewalks featuring black, white, and sometimes gray limestones mosaics, called calçada Portuguesa . Avenida da Liberdade is Lisbon’s version of Paris’ Champs-Élysées, London’s Regent’s Street, and Beverly Hills’ Rodeo Drive.

( Here’s how Black travel has evolved since the Green Book .)

Brown says her time in Lisbon has been magical. “I felt like a normal person walking through the world,” she says. “I never felt like I didn’t belong. I’m going to miss the positive energy here. America can be a really tough place to live.”

The irony isn’t lost on me—seeking solace in a city with ties to the very institution of slavery that shaped our history. We’ve learned to associate many European nations with colonialism, but Americans are not as familiar with Lusophone culture and history.

Many of us were unaware that Portugal was not just a participant in colonialism; it pioneered the trade in chattel slavery. In 1444, the small nation began transporting sub-Saharan Africans to Europe. In 1526, Portugal transported its first shipment of enslaved people to Brazil, effectively launching the transatlantic slave trade.

( Families are leading a new wave for Black travelers .)

A woman woman with dark skin and an afro with glasses and a long yellow cardigan walks across stones of a green pond.

Yet, perhaps our modern “return” to Portugal signifies a crucial step in healing, a reclaiming of collective joy and freedom.

Toby Thompkins, a recent ex-pat from New York, sees Lisbon as a place of reconciliation. “I think that’s what a lot of Black Americans are tapping into,” he says, adding there’s an openness to dialogue and a sense of infinite possibilities, reminiscent of America in the 1970s—a time of acknowledging and confronting racism.  

How to experience Lisbon  

To address its role in the slave trade, Lisbon’s government, in association with Batoto Yetu, has erected more than 20 historical street markers to honor the contributions of Africans and their descendants in 2024.  

Travelers can find the plaques near the riverside Terreiro do Paço , where enslaved people disembarked from the ships that carried them there from Africa, or in places such as Rossio Square , which, for centuries, has been a traditional gathering place for Black people in Lisbon. It is also the location of Igreja de São Domingos , the church where enslaved Africans were taken for their requisite baptism.

( Here’s why you see swallows everywhere in Portugal .)

In the Largo São Domingos neighborhood, which has a sizable African population, a stone bust was unveiled of Paulino Jose da Conceiçao, a formerly enslaved African who emigrated to Portugal from Brazil in 1832. Da Conceiçao, also known as Pai Paulino, was a social justice advocate and worked to improve the working and living conditions of Africans in Lisbon. Also in the works is a memorial to the victims of slavery, the first of its sort there.

In the coastal city of Lagos, in the Algarve region of southern Portugal, about three hours by train from Lisbon, visitors can explore a small museum dedicated to the history of slavery in the town. The museum, Mercado de Escravos , Market of Slaves, is situated on the site where the very first group of enslaved Africans was sold.

Related Topics

  • AFRICAN AMERICANS
  • CULTURAL TOURISM

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Passport to Portugal: Six ways to dive into its culture

Marisa Megan Paska

May 17, 2024 • 6 min read

1409535695

Few countries pack as much to do into one small space as Portugal © Giacomo Augugliaro/ Getty Images

Sponsored by

Few countries pack as much into one small space as Portugal . Neolithic carvings, Roman ruins and Moorish castles sit side-by-side with breathtaking mountain ranges, blue-flag beaches, canal-lined cities and enchanting villages.

Summer festivals pop up in otherwise quiet countryside towns and adventure sports alight on the coast and in the mountains, while artisan producers and makers fill shops, markets and homes with farm-to-table meals and hand-crafted wares.

Music, art, history and culture are interwoven into the fabric of the nation, making Portugal more than just a great place to visit – it’s a destination that literally has something for everyone.

Here are some of our favorite ways to take a deep dive into everything Portugalia.

Planning a trip to Portugal? Copy this weekend trip to Lisbon

GettyImages-1032729952.jpg

Catch a Fado show in Coimbra

One of the first things that comes to mind when you think of Portugal is inevitably Fado. This unique music was born in the taverns of Lisbon , followed closely by a second genre of Fado that’s native to the north-central city of Coimbra .

Coimbra is home to the oldest Portuguese-language university in the world (whose dress code helped to inspire the Harry Potter school uniforms), where groups of students would gather in the streets to sing of love, longing and their beloved university.

Unlike Lisboa’s Fado, Coimbra’s Fado is meant to be sung outdoors, not in taverns, and the guitar is tuned lower to better fit the outdoor acoustics. The lyrics are poetic, well-rehearsed and typically more hopeful than the Lisboete style, and performers (who are all male) wear the requisite black university dress and cape to this day.

Catch a show at one of Coimbra’s most iconic Fado houses, like à Capella or Café Santa Cruz .

GettyImages-121536277.jpg

Delve into Portugal’s artistic traditions

The Portuguese countryside oozes cultural heritage, and you can visit its unique offerings in villages from the north to the south.

Stop by Podence or Lazarim during Carnival to see the Caretos dressed in their iconic colorful costumes or wooden devil masks or head down to Alentejo, where artisan craftsmanship is alive and well. At the local markets – some of which, like the monthly Azeitão Market, are events unto themselves – you’ll see age-old basketweaving, ceramics, leather and tapestry techniques on display (don’t forget to take home some souvenirs).

In the Portuguese art world, quality trumps quantity. You may not find massive art institutions here, but you will find galleries showcasing unique works from the past and present – including homegrown Portuguese legends. Check out the Museu Coleção Berardo in Lisbon’s Centro Cultural de Belém for some of the country’s most daring exhibits; in Cascais , a celebration of Paula Rego – one of Portugal’s finest postwar painters; and in Porto , the cutting-edge exhibits in the art-deco mansion of Sarralves .

From Globus | Art & Soul: Portugal By Design , No matter how you awaken your spirit in Portugal, with complimentary YourChoice Excursions, you choose how to be moved.

GettyImages-945023048.jpg

Eat your Heart Out

There’s another form of artisanal production that makes Portugal famous – and this one’s edible.

Take a trip through the flavors of the nation, munching on cheese from the Serra de Estrela ; olive oil from Alentejo; or canned sardines from Pinhais in Matosinhos – the only cannery whose process is still 100 percent artisanal (aka, they do everything by hand).

Small batch growers, local artisanal farmers and producers make wine, cheese, olive oil, honey, conserves, sweets and more, all over the country, with each product defining the region it came from.

There’s also wine from the Douro to be savored (or port wine from Porto, should you prefer), Nevadas from Pencova to munch on and the unmissable Pastel de Belém, sold just outside of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos , where the delectable sweet was born.

GettyImages-907458310.jpg

Get Outdoors

After all that eating, you might be craving some time outdoors – and whether you’re looking to lie down on a beautiful, blue-flag beach, take a scenic hike through the hills or paddle into the Atlantic’s waters, Portugal’s got you covered.

Surf fanatics should visit the World Surf Reserve in Ericeria , see the WSL event in Supertubos in Peniche or watch the world’s largest wave break from Nazaré’s clifftops.

For those into trekking, take a walk on the breathtaking Rota Vicentina along Alentejo’s southern coastline or hike through the Peneda-Gerês National Park – one of the country’s best-kept secrets.

Beach lovers will of course flock to the Algarve’s sunny shores, but it would be a mistake to overlook the more authentic offerings along the shores of the Silver Coast – the less-crowed stretch of coastline between Ericeira and Porto, where Santa Cruz and Figueira da Foz are two all-time favorites.

From Globus | Taste of Portugal – From Porto to Lisbon, your senses are filled with visions of natural wonder, wonderful wines, tempting tastes and amazing artistry on this escorted tour.

GettyImages-694408588.jpg

Take in Some History

Now that you’re rested, it’s time to discover a bit more about Portugal’s past – which includes every major player from the Celtics to the Romans to the Moorish Empire. The best Roman ruins are found in Evora , a UNESCO World Heritage city and the capital of Alentejo. Evora’s 2,000-year-old Temple of Diana is one of the most important and iconic ruins in the country – although it’s dwarfed in size by the Roman ruins of Conímbriga , outside of Coimbra.

The Moors had their strongholds further South, where towns like Aljezur (whose name comes from the Arabic word aljezeer , meaning, ‘the island’) and Silves (home to one of the most complete Moorish castles) still bear their mark. In Mertola , near the coast of Spain, there is even an annual celebration of Moorish history and Arabic culture at the incredibly animated annual Islamic Festival. 

GettyImages-1483204178.jpg

Soak in the City of Light

Then of course there is the start and end to nearly any Portugal itinerary: Lisbon, the capital city, aka a Cidade de Luz (the City of Light.) They weren’t kidding, either. Lisbon's postcard-perfect panorama of cobbled alleyways, ancient ruins and white-domed cathedrals is a captivating scene crafted over centuries.

While you’re wandering through Barrio Alto’s narrow streets or strolling along the Tejo River, watch how the light reflects off the azulejo (ceramic tile) covered buildings and dances along the water. Enjoy a spectacular sunset from one of Lisbon's twenty miradouros (look out points), like the Miradouro de Santa Luzia or the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara .

From Globus | Portugal In Depth – From the granules of golden sand to the rich nuggets of history, this enlightening tour of Portugal introduces you to the brightest sights of the country.

GettyImages-151259897.jpg

Globus Tours connect you to the best of Portugal

Trying to fit all that a country has to offer into one itinerary can be more than challenging, which is why it pays get some help. No matter your interests, Globus Tours has a getaway for you, your family or your group (or can easily personalize or create a bespoke one that fits all your needs ).

Whether you’re looking for a classic Portuguese Escape , are hoping to find the Art & Soul of the country or need an "Escape" from the crowds , it’s easy to let Globus Tours handle the planning while still giving you the flexibility to choose your own activities.

If you have the time, add on the Azores Islands to your trip . Residents of this tiny archipelago have a slower, more friendly, authentic way of living, which makes for an unforgettable end to any Portuguese adventure.

Sponsored by Globus

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This story was crafted collaboratively between Globus and Lonely Planet. Both parties provided research and curated content to produce this story. We disclose when information isn’t ours.

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Black Frame

Portugal's Wine Country

crossed swatch

A winding road cuts between Castedo and Tua along with Douro River in the winemaking region of Portugal. A Times article on Portugal's hilly wine country said, "The slopes in the foreground were a precipitous, mesmerizing patchwork of greens, reds, browns and grays, the earth alternately craggy and lush, terraced and cleanly diagonal, as if some grand hand had fashioned it into a tutorial on all that nature and agriculture can do." This photo was published with a 2010 Times Travel article, "Portugal Old, New and Undiscovered."

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Made in the U.S.A. Dimensions: 14" x 16" x .9" Material: White ayous wood frame, Giclee archival acid-free semi-matte photo paper, 6-ply mat, plexiglass. Comes with wire, ready to hang with one nail and mini bubble level. Care Instructions: Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. To avoid scratching, do not use household cleaners.

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Made in the U.S.A. Dimensions: 17.5" x 20.5" x .9" Material: Espresso ayous wood frame, Giclee archival acid-free semi-matte photo paper, 6-ply mat, plexiglass. Comes with wire, ready to hang with one nail and mini bubble level. Care Instructions: Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. To avoid scratching, do not use household cleaners.

Made in the U.S.A. Dimensions: 17.5" x 20.5" x .9" Material: White ayous wood frame, Giclee archival acid-free semi-matte photo paper, 6-ply mat, plexiglass. Comes with wire, ready to hang with one nail and mini bubble level. Care Instructions: Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. To avoid scratching, do not use household cleaners.

Made in the U.S.A. Dimensions: 17.8" x 20.8" x .9" Material: Natural ayous wood frame, Giclee archival acid-free semi-matte photo paper, 6-ply mat, plexiglass. Comes with wire, ready to hang with one nail and mini bubble level. Care Instructions: Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. To avoid scratching, do not use household cleaners.

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Made in the U.S.A. Dimensions: 17.8" x 20.8" x .9" Material: Brushed aluminum frame, Giclee archival acid-free semi-matte photo paper, 6-ply mat, plexiglass. Comes with wire, ready to hang with one nail and mini bubble level. Care Instructions: Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. To avoid scratching, do not use household cleaners.

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Made in the U.S.A. Dimensions: 22.5" x 26.5" x .9" Material: Espresso ayous wood frame, Giclee archival acid-free semi-matte photo paper, 6-ply mat, plexiglass. Comes with wire, ready to hang with one nail and mini bubble level. Care Instructions: Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. To avoid scratching, do not use household cleaners.

Made in the U.S.A. Dimensions: 22.5" x 26.5" x .9" Material: White ayous wood frame, Giclee archival acid-free semi-matte photo paper, 6-ply mat, plexiglass. Comes with wire, ready to hang with one nail and mini bubble level. Care Instructions: Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. To avoid scratching, do not use household cleaners.

Made in the U.S.A. Dimensions: 22.5" x 26.5" x .9" Material: Natural ayous wood frame, Giclee archival acid-free semi-matte photo paper, 6-ply mat, plexiglass. Comes with wire, ready to hang with one nail and mini bubble level. Care Instructions: Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. To avoid scratching, do not use household cleaners.

Made in the U.S.A. Dimensions: 22.8" x 26.8" x .9" Material: Florentine Gold-colored aluminum frame, Giclee archival acid-free semi-matte photo paper, 6-ply mat, plexiglass. Comes with wire, ready to hang with one nail and mini bubble level. Care Instructions: Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. To avoid scratching, do not use household cleaners.

Made in the U.S.A. Dimensions: 22.8" x 26.8" x .9" Material: Brushed aluminum frame, Giclee archival acid-free semi-matte photo paper, 6-ply mat, plexiglass. Comes with wire, ready to hang with one nail and mini bubble level. Care Instructions: Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. To avoid scratching, do not use household cleaners.

Made in the U.S.A. Dimensions: 27.5" x 31.5" x .9" Material: Black ayous wood frame, Giclee archival acid-free semi-matte photo paper, 6-ply mat, plexiglass. Comes with wire, ready to hang with one nail and mini bubble level. Care Instructions: Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. To avoid scratching, do not use household cleaners.

Made in the U.S.A. Dimensions: 27.5" x 31.5" x .9" Material: Espresso ayous wood frame, Giclee archival acid-free semi-matte photo paper, 6-ply mat, plexiglass. Comes with wire, ready to hang with one nail and mini bubble level. Care Instructions: Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. To avoid scratching, do not use household cleaners.

Made in the U.S.A. Dimensions: 27.5" x 31.5" x .9" Material: White ayous wood frame, Giclee archival acid-free semi-matte photo paper, 6-ply mat, plexiglass. Comes with wire, ready to hang with one nail and mini bubble level. Care Instructions: Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. To avoid scratching, do not use household cleaners.

Made in the U.S.A. Dimensions: 27.5" x 31.5" x .9" Material: Natural ayous wood frame, Giclee archival acid-free semi-matte photo paper, 6-ply mat, plexiglass. Comes with wire, ready to hang with one nail and mini bubble level. Care Instructions: Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. To avoid scratching, do not use household cleaners.

Made in the U.S.A. Dimensions: 27.8" x 31.8" x .9" Material: Florentine Gold-colored aluminum frame, Giclee archival acid-free semi-matte photo paper, 6-ply mat, plexiglass. Comes with wire, ready to hang with one nail and mini bubble level. Care Instructions: Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. To avoid scratching, do not use household cleaners.

Made in the U.S.A. Dimensions: 27.8" x 31.8" x .9" Material: Brushed aluminum frame, Giclee archival acid-free semi-matte photo paper, 6-ply mat, plexiglass. Comes with wire, ready to hang with one nail and mini bubble level. Care Instructions: Wipe with a slightly damp cloth. To avoid scratching, do not use household cleaners.

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Seven, 10 and 14 days: the best Portugal road trips

ny times travel portugal

If you live in the US you’re not exactly short of epic road trip choices. The sheer scale of the country can make that intimidating though. Europe offers something different – smaller countries, less driving and more rewards. One of my favorites is a Portugal road trip.

Blessed with wonderful weather, long history and gorgeous coastlines, Portugal is a fascinating and fabulous country to explore. Its variety means there’s something for everyone, from history buffs to oenophiles, surfers to sun worshippers. And as it’s only 135 miles wide and 349 miles long, nothing is ever that far away. From when and where to go to what car to rent , here’s how to do your Portugal road trip right.

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How do I get to Portugal from the US?

What sort of vehicle should i rent for a portugal road trip, when is the best time to take a portugal road trip, how much does a portugal road trip cost, inland spas: a portugal road trip in 7 days, head to the coast: a portugal road trip in 10 days.

A vintage tram passing through a narrow lane surrounded by historic buildings.

The two main airports in Portugal are in its two biggest cities, Lisbon . Both sit on the Atlantic coast, Porto to the north and Lisbon to the south. Their respective locations make great access points from which to start your road trip, depending on where you’re going.

You can fly direct to Lisbon and to Porto from major US airports, where you’ll also find plenty of car rental options. If you’re focussing your trip in the Algarve to the far south, connecting flights to Faro are cheap, quick and regular.

A couple enjoying each other's company inside a car shares a moment of togetherness while travelling.

Portugal’s freeways and minor roads are generally in good condition. You can base your car choice on who you’re traveling with, be it family or friends , and the type of trip you’re taking. If you’re staying at hotels, a standard car or SUV will be fine. If you’re planning on using the country’s many campgrounds, you can rent an RV from dedicated companies. And as much of Portugal is sun-soaked for much of the year, a convertible is seldom a bad idea.

A woman sitting on the bed with her luggage, using her tablet computer.

Portugal’s southern location treats it to more sun than most European countries . Average temperatures in Lisbon sit above 60°F from April till the end of October, peaking in the mid-70s in August (data sourced from weatherbase.com ). It’s usually accompanied by clear blue skies. Thanks to its relatively long and narrow geography, the weather is significantly hotter and drier in the south than it is in the north. On my week-long trip through the Algarve last August, there wasn’t a single day where the thermometer dropped below 100°F!

That also makes it drier than most. Rain is all but an afterthought in the high summer months, averaging just 6mm in July and August. But with December, the wettest month, seeing only 122mm of rain on average, the weather is never bad enough to make a road trip untenable.

Unsurprisingly, late spring and early summer are the most popular tourist months. Lisbon is the most popular destination in Portugal, at its busiest in April and May. Although the summer months see similarly high numbers for flight searches. Porto’s popularity peaks in the summer months July and August. Faro remains popular into September and October, the warmer southern weather lasting longer into fall.

I love road tripping most in late spring and early fall , when the daytime temperatures don’t make driving a sweaty chore. It gives you the best of all worlds. It’s warm enough to still enjoy the beaches and the surf is more reliable than summer months. There are enough tourists to mean sleepier bars and restaurants are open for business, but not enough to fill them. Roads and attractions aren’t too busy – though that’s seldom the case outside of the cities at any time in Portugal.

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Before you start booking, it’s handy to get an idea of how much a road trip in Portugal will cost you. Here are some data for guidance, calculated by comparing hundreds of travel providers.

  • Average price for a round trip flight from New York to Lisbon: $911
  • Average price for one night in a double hotel room in Lisbon: 135 euros (approx. $143)
  • Average price for one night in a hostel in Lisbon: 64 euros (approx. $68)
  • Average daily rate for a rental car in Lisbon: 42 euros (approx. $44)
  • Cost of 1 gallon of gas in Portugal: 6,91 euros (according to numbeo.com in March 2024)

The global cost for a seven-day road trip in Portugal, covering 274 miles, staying in hotels, and using 13 gallons of gas, would be approximately 1,300 euros (around $1,400) for two travelers (660 euros or around $700 per person).

Staying at campgrounds would also significantly reduce your accommodation costs, although the higher cost of renting an RV over a car may wipe out that saving. And of course, if you’re traveling with more people you may be able to share some of the costs.

This is a fun road trip into inland Portugal, perfect if you’re flying into Porto. You’ll encounter a mix of stunning spa towns, gorgeous wild spaces and historic cities along the way. It may not cover a huge distance but there’s a lot to see and do – and you can go any time of year.

Day 1: Porto

Woman in an orange dress gazing at old decorative traditional azulejo tiles in a city

Portugal’s namesake city is a wonderful starting point. It offers lots of car rental options and all the facilities you need to prepare and stock up for your trip. Welcoming and convenient, historic and captivating, it’s a lovely introductory taste to Portugal.

Where to stay in Porto: The Rebello has the highest KAYAK ratings and best riverside views in the city

Day 2: Guimarães

A water fountain in a church square surrounded by historic architecture.

Distance from Porto: 34 miles

Inland to the north lies the city of Guimarães with its eye-popping World Heritage city center. Climb to the hilltop 10th century Guimarães Castle for awesome views over the landscape you’re road tripping through.

Where to stay near Guimarães: The five-star Pousada Mosteiro de Guimarães is simply incredible

Day 3: Curia

A boat sailing in the middle of a canal lined with docked boats bordered by colourful buildings.

Distance from Guimarães: 90 miles

Curia is a spa town famed for its Belle Epoque-era mansions. Many are now beautiful hotels housing thermal spas once loved by the Romans for their therapeutic properties. Float, recuperate and revel in them like the Romans did.

Expert tip: On route, consider a detour to Aveiro on the coast. Explore its historic art nouveau center and float down its canals on one of the colorful barcos moliceiros.

Where to stay in Curia: The Curia Palace Hotel & Spa is blow-your-socks-off beautiful

Day 4: Luso

View of elaborate ancient palace surrounded by a large garden on a sunny day

Distance from Curia: 10 miles

The spa town of Luso is perhaps Portugal’s most famous water source. Thermal baths proliferate and healing waters pour freely from fountains. Nearby, my favorite part of inland Portugal – Buçaco forest. Cultivated by solitude-seeking Carmelite monks since the sixth century, it’s one of the richest and most exotic spaces in Europe. Spend the day hiking here to revitalize your senses before calming them again in a Luso spa.

Where to stay near Luso: The Palace Hotel do Bussaco in the heart of the forest is my favorite hotel in Portugal

Day 5: Coimbra

Historic architecture with colourful facades along a steep roadway.

Distance from Luso: 20 miles

The riverfront city of Coimbra is an atmospheric ascent (literally – it’s hilly!) into the Portugal of old. Its beautifully preserved medieval old town is home to the historic University of Coimbra, renowned for its Baroque library and bell tower. It’s a lovely place to watch the sunset from.

Where to stay in Coimbra: The República Guest House by the university has the best KAYAK ratings in the city

Day 6: Caramulo

Viewing point of mountains with windmills

Distance from Coimbra: 50 miles

Heading back north, a stop at Caramulo takes you into the mountains where the air is so clean it has long drawn visitors seeking cures for breathing ailments. Its center is crisscrossed by Art Deco buildings and abandoned sanatoriums; its outskirts are crisscrossed by magical mountain trails delivering breathtaking views. Aptly for a road trip, it’s also home to the Museo do Caramulo , a truly unique car museum housing some of the world’s most extraordinary supercars.

Where to stay in Caramulo: The Beecaramulo Apitourismo farm stay has gorgeous mountain views, especially from the Jacuzzi

Day 7: Porto

Charming traditional colourful houses line a quaint street.

Distance from Caramulo: 70 miles

Finish your trip back in beautiful Porto. Drop off your car and spend your last day or days sipping its famed port wine in chic and rustic bars overlooking the Douro River. Historic Ribeira is the riverside district where narrow cobbled streets look pulled from an ancient painting.

This Portugal road trip itinerary takes in the best of the country’s 513-mile coast. Heading south from the capital, it snakes into the Algarve taking in coastlines on the Atlantic and Gulf of Cadiz. Spectacular and sun-soaked, it’s a road trip best suited to the summer months.

Day 1: Lisbon

Tourists pass through the cobbled road with outdoor dining between buildings towards an archway.

Portugal’s capital is a buzzing modern metropolis dressed in the grandeur of old. Steep, tilting streets connect grungy atmospheric barrios with splendid esplanades that spill onto a sleekly developed waterfront. Unwind for a night from a long flight before hitting the road south.

Where to stay in Lisbon: Gaspar House is a fantastic blend of value, style and quality

Day 2: Cascais

A beach with gentle waves that lap against the shore, a bustling village nearby, and a charming promenade inviting leisurely strolls

Distance from Lisbon: 19 miles

Before staring south in earnest, a quick side trip west to charming, seaside Cascais . Stroll its lovely promenade, stop off for a dip in the Atlantic at Praia da Rainha with views up to the stunning Palacete Seixtas. End your day at the Boca do Inferno cliff formation, aptly translated as Hell’s Mouth.

Where to stay in Cascais: Go all out at The Albatroz , a stunning five-star clifftop mansion

Day 3: Setúbal

A person skillfully captures the beauty of the sloped coastline with their smartphone.

Distance from Cascais: 56 miles

Setúbal is one of the best seafood towns in Portugal, which is saying something. Spend a day boating out into the crystal clear waters of Arrábida Natural Park and swim at Praia do Portinho da Arrábida, one of Portugal’s most stunning beaches. Stop off at a local winery on the way back to taste the famed Moscatel de Setúbal fortified wine. Soak up the alcohol over a dinner of dried cuttlefish, the town’s most famous dish (it’s salty and delicious.)

Where to stay in Setúbal: In the heart of the city, Pêpa Guesthouse is the best KAYAK rated stay under $80

Day 4: Sagres

A sandy shore stretches alongside the tranquil blue sea, encompassed by expansive cliffs under the clear blue sky.

Distance from Setúbal: 182 miles

Drive three hours south and you’ll arrive in the sizzling Algarve on Portugal’s south coast. Sandy and dry with spectacular beaches and dramatic cliffs, it’s a different world from the Atlantic coast. Make straight for Sagres and Praia da Cordoama, a sprawling rock and sand beach that’s a favorite with surfers.

Where to stay in Sagres: Memmo Baleeira is my pick in Sagres for its grand views over the surf

Day 5: Albufeira

A sandy beach lined with white houses and buildings against a clear blue sky.

Distance from Sagres: 53 miles

It may only take an hour to get to Albufeira east along the coast, but my advice is not to rush it. Take some of those dead end coastal roads you pass on the road – you’ll likely end up in some sleepy fishing village with a world-class beach and fresh-as-it-gets seafood. Then, of course there are the waterparks – whether you have kids or not Slide & Splash is a hilarious way to wash off the dust of the road.

Where to stay in Albufeira: The W Algarve is the funnest, funkiest hotel on the entire coast

Day 6: Faro

A young tourist stands confidently in front of an ancient church nestled within a city.

Distance from Albufeira: 28 miles

Faro may be old but it’s also a major tourist town. Its historic center buzzes with al fresco cafés, loud bars and mixed quality restaurants. Take a boat trip to Rio Formosa Natural Park to swap tourists for wildlife or rent a kayak at nearby Benagil to explore the extraordinary caves pockmarking the coast.

Where to stay in Faro: Chic À da Avó is a gorgeous guesthouse in the heart of Faro for under $80

Day 7: Figueira da Foz

A girl strolls alone on Cabedelo Beach in the morning, enjoying the gentle sound of waves as they lap against the shore.

Distance from Faro: 280 miles

The longest drive takes you back north of Lisbon to Figueira da Foz. The archetypal seaside town, it’s all grand esplanades, vast groomed beaches and wonderful seafood restaurants. Just south of town is Praia do Cabedelo is one of the area’s best surfing beaches.

Where to stay in Figueira da Foz: Bachareis Charming House is the best rated KAYAK stay and costs just $80 a night

Day 8: Nazaré

A red lighthouse overlooking the ocean with surfers riding the waves.

Distance from Figueira da Foz: 57 miles

A short scenic drive south takes you to the now infamous town of Nazaré. If you’re lucky, you may get to see one of nature’s greatest shows – the world’s biggest waves breaking just offshore and the surfers daring enough to ride them. They’re best viewed from the historic cliff top lighthouse, Farol da Nazaré.

Where to stay in Nazaré: Batata is an oceanfront gem with great views at budget prices

Day 9: Sintra

Pena Palace is a vibrant and colourful hilltop castle in yellow and red hues with domed towers surrounded by crenellated structures and a clock tower with turrets.

Distance from Nazaré: 81 miles

The penultimate leg takes you into the fairytale town of Sintra with its elaborate Pena and Monserrate palaces. Explore the lush gardens and underground tunnels of Quinta da Regaleira and refuel on classic local travesseiro pastries.

Where to stay near Sintra: Budget friendly, highly rated Galo Preto has views up to Pena Palace

Day 10: Lisbon

Four friends smile as they took a group photo using a smartphone in a public square with an arch monument in the background.

Distance from Sintra: 18 miles

It’s a short hop back into Lisbon to drop off the car and spend another day (or more) soaking up all that Portugal’s capital has to offer.

Top to bottom: the ultimate 2 week road trip in Portugal

Three friends unloading their surfboards from a car's trunk in a grassy beach.

A two-week trip means you can tackle the spine of Portugal and take in every aspect of the country. There’s a single road perfect for just such a trip – Portugal’s longest and once the country’s main thoroughfare: the Estrada Nacional 2.

Better known simply as the N2, it runs 459 miles from Chaves at its northern border to Faro in the Algarve. Perfectly dissecting the country east to west from top to toe, it has become the country’s most popular road trip. It’s known as the Portuguese Route 66.

The N2 passes through Portugal’s rural heartland, starting in the mountainous Douro region and running through every landscape to the olive fields of the Alentejo. Along the way, ancient cities and towns, easy diversions to the coast, wild landscapes and an endless staple of delicious regional foods. This is an end-to-end road trip where you’ll fly into Porto and out of Faro.

Expert tip: The N2 comes with its own passport from the tourist offices in Chaves and Faro, which you can get stamped at more than 35 stops en route. It makes for a lovely memento.

How does KAYAK know what to put in this guide?

My oldest friend has lived in Portugal for 20 years. Together we’ve road tripped most of this amazing country in search of empty surf breaks, amazing hiking and fine wines. This guide mixes those experiences and itineraries with many of the classic Portugal attractions. It should have a little something for everyone no matter your tastes – just like the country itself.

The hotel recommendations included in this article are based on customer ratings and the author's personal choices, so please feel free to use our hotel search tool to find the accommodation best suited to your needs.

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Portugal to Build New Airport Across the River From Lisbon

Reuters

FILE PHOTO: Portuguese Prime Minister Luis Montenegro speaks during the debate on the new government programme at the Portuguese parliament, in Lisbon, Portugal, April 11, 2024. REUTERS/Pedro Nunes/File Photo

LISBON (Reuters) - Portugal will build a new international airport in the municipality of Alcochete, across the River Tagus from Lisbon, Prime Minister Luis Montenegro announced on Tuesday after decades of back-and-forth over the location.

The new airport will be built at the site of a military airfield in Alcochete, about 40 km (25 miles) east of Lisbon, and should the ready by 2034. This location has been favoured by an independent technical commission, which had studied several possible sites.

The new airport will replace Lisbon's Humberto Delgado airport, just near the city centre, but the current airport will be expanded while the new airport is being built.

"The government sees having one single airport as a solution more suited to the country's strategic interests," Montenegro told a news conference.

Infrastructure Minister Miguel Pinto Luz said the project would cost up to 9 billion euros ($9.74 billion), adding it would be built using EU funds, public-private partnerships and airport tariffs and not through the state budget.

The government said it would initiate talks with airport operator ANA, owned by French construction firm Vinci. ANA already has a concession for a new airport in the Lisbon region.

To make it faster for passengers to get to Lisbon city centre from the Alcochete airport, the government said it would build a third bridge crossing the Tagus river. Pinto Luz said it was still not decided if the bridge would be just for trains or also for vehicles.

The announcement by the new centre-right minority government, which won a general election just two months ago, comes after several studies and decades of indecision.

The tourism industry has grown increasingly frustrated in the past few years as Lisbon's main airport is operating at full capacity.

Portugal is going through a tourism boom, which attracted record numbers of visitors. Foreigners staying in Portuguese hotels also made the first quarter of 2024 the best on record.

"I just hope this is a definitive decision and it won't be called into question by other governments, something we have unfortunately seen in recent years," said Francisco Calheiros, head of the Portuguese Tourism Confederation.

The government has also said it would build the long-delayed high-speed train connection between Lisbon and the Spanish capital by 2034. There are currently no direct rail links between Lisbon and Madrid.

($1 = 0.9242 euros)

(Reporting by Patrícia Vicente Rua, Catarina Demony and Sergio Goncalves; Editing by Andrei Khalip and David Gregorio)

Copyright 2024 Thomson Reuters .

Photos You Should See - May 2024

TOPSHOT - A woman wades through flood waters at an inundated residential area in Garissa, on May 9, 2024. Kenya is grappling with one of its worst floods in recent history, the latest in a string of weather catastrophes, following weeks of extreme rainfall scientists have linked to a changing climate. At least 257 people have been killed and more than 55,000 households have been displaced as murky waters submerge entire villages, destroy roads and inundate dams. (Photo by LUIS TATO / AFP) (Photo by LUIS TATO/AFP via Getty Images)

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Spectacular fireball lights up sky bright blue for millions over parts of europe.

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A spectacular meteor jetted through the skies over Portugal and Spain Saturday night, dazzling millions of people with a blue-green fireball that lit up the night sky.

The celestial object was seen streaking across the atmosphere, illuminating the clouds with a bright neon blue color for about 7 seconds.

The European Space Agency said the meteor appeared to be a chunk of a comet that broke off and skipped across Earth’s atmosphere about 35 miles high.

🇵🇹 | ÚLTIMA HORA Un meteorito iluminó el cielo nocturno sobre Portugal. pic.twitter.com/osYYbzukyR — UHN PLUS (@UHN_Plus) May 19, 2024

It was traveling at a striking 1,700 mph.

Authorities received reports of an object falling from the sky in Viseu, but couldn’t locate a possible crash site or determine whether any of the meteor hit the ground, according to Portuguese newspaper Publico .

Viseu is located in central Portugal — about 200 miles north of the country’s capital Lisbon.

suspected meteor streamed through the skies over Portugal and Spain Saturday night

The meteor was likely 8 to 12 inches of diameter, astronomer Josep María Trigo told Spain’s El Pais newspaper .

Portugal’s Civil Protection Agency posted online about a “meteorite fall” in the Castro Daire area, but the outlet reported that the statement was later retracted.

The ESA said it was unlikely that any pieces of the meteor would make it to Earth.

One video, seemingly recorded from a driver’s dash-cam and shared on X, showed a clear view of the blazing blue light streaking across the sky.

Another clip shows a woman walking with her camera pointing toward the sky when the sky around her brightens in the blue tint, causing her to stop in her path.

A third video captured a crowd with a clear view of the suspected meteor in complete disbelief as a streak of blue flies over their heads.

Here's another view of a meteor that lit up Portugal's sky moments ago. pic.twitter.com/Mz87Soe2ib — Travolax | Travel & Destinations 🌍 (@travolax) May 19, 2024

If a meteoroid enters Earth’s atmosphere “or that of another planet, like Mars,” it builds up a significant amount of speed and begins to burn up, appearing as a fireball, according to NASA .

Meteorites are fragments of space rocks traveling around the universe and can sometimes pass through the Earth’s atmosphere and hit the planet’s surface

Most meteorites originate from asteroids, which are rocky bodies in the asteroid belt between Mars and Jupiter, while others can come from comets.

The ESA said the object seen over spain was likely a comet fragment.

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  5. Photo: Susana Raab for The New York Times

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