titleist 1981 tour model

Titleist Irons By Year: Complete List!

First established back in the 1930s, Titleist is known for its quality golf equipment.

Having initially poured focus into producing the perfect golf ball — the ProV1 — the brand entered the club-making space in the 1970s with its forged irons.

Since then, Titleist irons have found their way into the bags of some of the best players in the world — along with millions of everyday golfers.

In this article, you’ll find a comprehensive list of Titleist irons by year.

Titleist Irons By Year

Titleist launched its first golf iron in 1970, titled the Finalist Forged irons. Since then, the company has evolved to produce some of the highest-quality irons in the game. Most recently, the Titleist T-Series was updated with the T100, T150, T200, and T350 targeting players of various skill levels.

Here is a complete list of every Titleist iron release:

Titleist Irons: 1970-1979

Part of the Acushnet Company, Titleist is an American brand of golf equipment.

Founded in 1932, the initial focus was on developing golf balls. After years of progress, Titleist celebrated becoming the most-used golf ball on the professional tour at the U.S. Open at Medinah CC in 1949.

Fast forward to 1970, and Titleist ventured into club-making off the back of its parent company’s acquisition of Golfcraft — an established golf club manufacturer.

That same year, Acushnet released the Titleist Finalist Forged irons . The design marked the start of a line of players irons, with a slim profile and tiny sweet spot.

Two years later, the AC 108 irons were released. This club was revolutionary as it was one of the first irons to incorporate tungsten perimeter weighting. For this reason, it offered more playability than traditional forged blades on the market.

FUN FACT: The branded tungsten toe weights used in the AC 108 irons were used in the first prototype Scotty Cameron putters.

In 1976, Titleist was purchased by American Brands — now known as Fortune Brands. At this time, they developed the Model 90 and Model 100 irons .

To round out a successful decade, Titleist launched the Tour Model irons in 1979. With a form factor drawn from the Finalist Forged irons released almost a decade prior, the Tour Model irons were designed for the best players and proved popular on tour.

Titleist Irons: 1980-1989

By the 1980s, Titleist had grown to become an established name in the golf space.

In 1981, the brand developed the Accu-Flo irons . Following a successful driver sporting the name two years prior, the Accu-Flo irons offered forgiveness in a striking design.

One year later, the Accu-Flo Plus irons were released. Featuring more offset and improved weight distribution, these proved easier to hit for the everyday golfer.

At the same time, Titleist was refining its bladed players iron. The Tour Model irons were updated in 1981 and 1982, offering subtle refinements to a proven head shape.

Subsequently, this was followed by the Tour Model 821 and Tour Model 841 irons , which were released in 1983 and 1984 respectively.

In 1986, the Titleist B-33 irons were introduced. Significantly, this club featured a foam-filled hollow cast head and marked the brand’s first foray into casting.

Following this, they developed the DTR irons . Also cast, these were designed with a large rear cavity. Basically, this allowed for weight to be distributed to the perimeters of the club head, adding forgiveness on off-center strikes.

Titleist Irons: 1990-1999

In the 1990s, Titleist focused primarily on two types of golf irons:

• The Tour Model series — blades designed for lower-handicap players
• The DCI series — game improvement irons for higher-handicap players

In 1991, the Tour Model blades received another update. This version proved highly successful, and the same design was manufactured up until 1997.

In 1993, the brand launched the DCI Black and DCI Gold irons . These targeted the everyday golfer, featuring a thicker topline and a large rear cavity.

Three years later, the DCI line received an update. Titleist developed the DCI Oversize + version, featuring a large and dependable club head for better strike and accuracy.

Toward the end of the 90s, Titleist released several iterations of the DCI line. This included the DCI 962 , DCI 981 , and DCI 990 irons .

Titleist Irons: 2000-2009

In 2001, the Titleist 681 and 681 “T” irons were released. Unquestionably, these limited-edition forged blades were targeted toward the better player who preferred the looks and feel of traditional forged iron blades.

That same year, the Titleist DCI 762 irons were introduced. In short, they were based heavily on the DCI irons of the 90s, crossed with more precise weight distribution.

In 2003, they released the 680 irons . With a classic appearance and a reasonable amount of offset for forgiveness, they initially proved very popular on tour. Adam Scott has spoken of his love for the early 2000s Titleist 680 blades:

“Irons are made so beautifully and perfect now, but it’s just a little different than what I grew up looking at. There’s very little offset; not many guys out here play with offset these days, but that’s what I grew up playing and that’s what the 680s have. Also, they have quite a sharp leading edge and sole, and that kind of turf interaction is a big thing for me. It’s quite a sharp edge and it keeps me very shallow, and I know if I’m getting steep the club is going to stick in the ground a little bit so it helps me keep my swing where I like it.” Adam Scott via Golf.com

In 2008, the brand launched the original AP2 irons . One of their most hyped releases, the AP2’s multi-material head design was referred to by its engineers as “a total process breakthrough for constructing an iron.”

At the rear, there was a tungsten nickel box to position more weight lower in the head. Hence, launch and forgiveness were improved.

When the AP2 arrived, it exploded Titleist’s reputation for its golf irons into another dimension. While the brand had previously been known for its blades for single-digit handicappers, the AP2 line opened up the broader golf market.

Titleist Irons: 2010-2019

In the 2010s, Titleist continued to ride the wave of success from its AP2 line.

In 2011, they introduced the 712 AP2 irons . These sat within a lineup targeting every type of golfer, along with the 712 AP1 , 712 MB , and 712 CB versions.

Later, Titleist casually dropped the C16 irons in 2016. At $3,000 and only available with a club fitting at one of the brand’s few locations, it was undoubtedly an exclusive release.

In fact, the “C” in C16 stood for “concept” and set the precedent for an experimental line of clubs released several years later titled CNCPT .

In 2019, the T-Series was introduced — the lineup included the T100 , T100s , T200 , and T300 . The T100 and T100s versions had smaller heads and suited the better player, while the T200 and T300 offered explosive launch and forgiveness.

Titleist Irons: 2020-Present

Moving into the 2020s, the T-Series remains the sole iron focus for Titleist.

In 2021, after initial testing conducted with its PGA Tour players, Titleist updated the full T-Series — with revised models of the T100 , T100s , T200 , and T300 .

The T300 irons were the brand’s best offering in the game-improvement iron category. Featuring a thick, strong head design, the T300 offers explosive launch off the clubface for consistently long carry distances in a beautiful design.

In 2023, Titleist refreshed its lineup with new T100 , T150 , T200 , and T350 irons.

Currently, the Titleist T200 irons are our favorites for mid-to-high handicappers who seek forgiveness — without compromising looks.

Simply put, they’re beauties. Check them out at Worldwide Golf Shops below:

Titleist T200 Irons

+ Plenty of forgiveness + Beautiful, classic appearance + Compact and sleek head shape + Strong distance capabilities + Suits a variety of skill levels

– Premium price tag – Not as soft feeling as other irons

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Hailing from the South West of England, Jake has been playing golf for over a decade. He founded Pitchmarks with the aim of helping everyday golfers like himself learn more about the game, through instructional content and honest gear reviews. He has a degree in Architecture and a passion for golf course design, along with a lofty goal to play the world's top 100 courses.

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• Club Making/Repair & DIY Projects

My first restoration project: 1981 Titleist Tour Model blade irons

By longdrivenate January 18, 2021 in Club Making/Repair & DIY Projects

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longdrivenate

Last week I came across a set of 1981 Titleist Tour Model irons (3-PW) that someone was selling for $40 on craigslist. I thought they looked super cool and I had been reading about club restoration before so it felt like a good opportunity to finally take the plunge and have a go at it. I met the guy selling them and he told me he had been playing them as his gamers for decades but finally upgraded to more forgiving / modern clubs since he was older and needed a bit of help with his game. I could tell when I saw the clubs that they were pretty banged up (lots of nicks and dings, dirty, dull, grips were very worn through, etc.) but the shape and bones of these old blades was still so sexy so I happily handed him $40 and took them off his hands. 

Here they are before I did anything to them. 

The first thing I did was give them a really thorough cleaning by washing them in hot, soapy water and scrubbing them with steel wool and Barkeeper's Friend. That alone worked wonders to bring back some of the shine and make them look better. 

Here they are after the deep cleaning (already a big improvement IMO, although they look shinier and better in this pic due to the sunlight than they really were).

The next step was to grind out all the nicks and dings, then buff and polish them. Based on youtube videos I had watched, I knew I was going to need some sort of bench grinder or multitool to do this (neither of which I had), so I went to Home Depot and purchased the cheapest bench grinder I could find ($49). I also purchased a fine grit deburring wheel for it, a buffing wheel, a polishing wheel, and a small buffing compound kit (all of those were probably another $25-30). I went to work grinding the clubs with the deburring wheel to remove the nicks and dings, then worked through the polishing compounds with the buffing and polishing wheels. This phase of the process was really where the magic happened. 

Here are some side by side comparisons of a few clubs before these steps, and after:

The deburring was the part that took the most skill and I think I could improve upon the most with more practice. I was able to get some of the nicks and dings out, but not completely and I think to do better, I would need a more coarse wheel, but then I would have to be careful to not grind away too much metal. It seems like a fine line to walk so that you can improve the look of the club but also not change the structure or weight at all. Overall, I'm very happy with how it turned out though. 

The next step was to remove all the old paint with acetone, and then do a fresh paint fill. This was pretty easy. I found that the old paint came right off with a little acetone and a gentle scrubbing with an old toothbrush. Then the paintfilling was super easy. I used black enamel paint, applied a couple coats, and let it dry for a day. 

Here they are after the fresh paint fill!

The last step was to replace the grips. I could have bought old stock grips to restore their original look, but I am not planning on selling these or treating them as "collectibles", rather I want to actually play them occasionally, so I put on my preferred grips (Winn Dri-Tac). Grip replacement is pretty easy/standard if you've done it before, so I didn't take before/after grip pics, but...

Here is the final product! I love em!

That's that! Can't wait to hit them and see how much worse I am with 40 year old blades in hand! Hope you all enjoyed. Let me know if I should post any updates or more club restorations in the future - I enjoyed this and could see myself getting into it, especially as a fun covid hobby. 

• sirchunksalot , toehold57 , DriverBreaker and 14 others

Driver: Callaway Mavrik SubZero

Irons: Taylormade P770 4i - AW

Wedges: Taylormade MG3 at 55 and 60 degrees

Taylormade Stealth Plus 3Hy

Taylormade Stealth Plus 3W

Putter: Odyssey Stroke Lab Double Wide Arm Lock

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They look awesome! Had you done any grinding before? That’s the part that would scare me the most, but since you only had $40 into the clubs, it’s not a huge risk! Would definitely like to see more of your work. Out of curiosity, what bench grinder did you buy? Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

sirchunksalot

DStar   ' Malvern ' Putter 

"Hey mister, your clubs are the wrong way round"..

You did an amazing job, they look gorgeous! Restoring old clubs is a fun and satisfying hobby and can become addictive. I look forward to hearing how they perform for you on the course. 

23 hours ago, Rtracymog said: They look awesome! Had you done any grinding before? That’s the part that would scare me the most, but since you only had $40 into the clubs, it’s not a huge risk! Would definitely like to see more of your work. Out of curiosity, what bench grinder did you buy?

I had never done any grinding! Tbh, it's the part I was most intimidated by. In fact, I watched a lot of youtube videos about club restoration and as soon as I saw them use a grinder or multitool, I would just move on since I figured 'I'm never going to do that'. Eventually, I started to realize it's somewhat necessary to really do a good job and figured I might as well learn. Glad I did now. It definitely took some practice (and it's still the part of the process I feel like I can improve upon the most), but I got way more comfortable with it as I went and it's not that hard to do a decent job. As far as the bench grinder I used, I'll link to it (and the other things you'd need) below:

Bench grinder   ($50 at Lowes).   There are slightly cheaper ones out there too though, like this one at Home Depot which looks like it would also work. 

Soft deburring wheel ($38 on Amazon). The bench grinder came with two grinding wheels but they were too coarse to use without risking damage to the clubs. You'll need a soft/fine grit wheel so if your bench grinder doesn't come with one, you'll have to buy it separately.

Buffing/Polishing wheels ($10-20 depending on size of set). The one I purchased was like the one I linked to but it was only $9 and had two wheels instead of three - just the buffing and polishing wheels. 

Polishing Compound Kit ($5-10). There's a lot of these and you can buy them from any hardware store or amazon. 

And I do recognize that once I bought all this stuff, I had sunk over $100 into restoring a $40 set of clubs haha. Personally, I was ok with that (and rationalized it) because I viewed these as one time setup costs and I should be able to use all these components for quite awhile as I do other restoration projects. But I included the costs so you can decide for yourself if it's an investment you want to make if you're unsure whether or not you want to get into this. If just trying to restore a set of clubs as a one time thing, it may end up ultimately being cheaper and worthwhile to pay someone else to do it. Hope that helps!

• BH43 and Rtracymog

15 hours ago, sirchunksalot said: You did an amazing job, they look gorgeous! Restoring old clubs is a fun and satisfying hobby and can become addictive. I look forward to hearing how they perform for you on the course. 

Thank you! I took them to the range today. Wow, do I ever appreciate the advancements in golf club technology now! They are much harder to hit consistently and compared to my P790s, the distances (even on pure strikes) were about 2 full clubs shorter. Still very fun to hit and the sound/feel on pure strikes is pretty amazing. I'll try to get some video and launch monitor data another day if that's of any interest. 

• sirchunksalot , Rtracymog and Shapotomous
• 6 months later...

Superjoemofo

Nice! Especially for your first time! I love restoring anything let alone some beauty clubs like those! Keep it up!

From Wisconsin

Playing Calaway BB X-12s standard length and steel shaft standard

Calaway BBA 9.5°/ stiff flex

Average about 105 on 18 but getting better!

On 1/18/2021 at 12:17 PM, longdrivenate said: Hi spies. I just completed my first attempt at restoring a set of clubs and I'm really proud of it  Just wanted to share and show how it went. It wasn't easy and I feel like I can get much much better at this with practice, but I'm still really happy with the final product and had a lot of fun with the process. Enjoy! Last week I came across a set of 1981 Titleist Tour Model irons (3-PW) that someone was selling for $40 on craigslist. I thought they looked super cool and I had been reading about club restoration before so it felt like a good opportunity to finally take the plunge and have a go at it. I met the guy selling them and he told me he had been playing them as his gamers for decades but finally upgraded to more forgiving / modern clubs since he was older and needed a bit of help with his game. I could tell when I saw the clubs that they were pretty banged up (lots of nicks and dings, dirty, dull, grips were very worn through, etc.) but the shape and bones of these old blades was still so sexy so I happily handed him $40 and took them off his hands.  Here they are before I did anything to them.    The first thing I did was give them a really thorough cleaning by washing them in hot, soapy water and scrubbing them with steel wool and Barkeeper's Friend. That alone worked wonders to bring back some of the shine and make them look better.  Here they are after the deep cleaning (already a big improvement IMO, although they look shinier and better in this pic due to the sunlight than they really were). The next step was to grind out all the nicks and dings, then buff and polish them. Based on youtube videos I had watched, I knew I was going to need some sort of bench grinder or multitool to do this (neither of which I had), so I went to Home Depot and purchased the cheapest bench grinder I could find ($49). I also purchased a fine grit deburring wheel for it, a buffing wheel, a polishing wheel, and a small buffing compound kit (all of those were probably another $25-30). I went to work grinding the clubs with the deburring wheel to remove the nicks and dings, then worked through the polishing compounds with the buffing and polishing wheels. This phase of the process was really where the magic happened.  Here are some side by side comparisons of a few clubs before these steps, and after: The deburring was the part that took the most skill and I think I could improve upon the most with more practice. I was able to get some of the nicks and dings out, but not completely and I think to do better, I would need a more coarse wheel, but then I would have to be careful to not grind away too much metal. It seems like a fine line to walk so that you can improve the look of the club but also not change the structure or weight at all. Overall, I'm very happy with how it turned out though.  The next step was to remove all the old paint with acetone, and then do a fresh paint fill. This was pretty easy. I found that the old paint came right off with a little acetone and a gentle scrubbing with an old toothbrush. Then the paintfilling was super easy. I used black enamel paint, applied a couple coats, and let it dry for a day.  Here they are after the fresh paint fill! The last step was to replace the grips. I could have bought old stock grips to restore their original look, but I am not planning on selling these or treating them as "collectibles", rather I want to actually play them occasionally, so I put on my preferred grips (Winn Dri-Tac). Grip replacement is pretty easy/standard if you've done it before, so I didn't take before/after grip pics, but... Here is the final product! I love em! That's that! Can't wait to hit them and see how much worse I am with 40 year old blades in hand! Hope you all enjoyed. Let me know if I should post any updates or more club restorations in the future - I enjoyed this and could see myself getting into it, especially as a fun covid hobby. 

• longdrivenate , sirchunksalot , Rtracymog and 2 others
• 2 weeks later...

@Superjoemofo  that putter looks great! I picked up an old Ping putter at my local golf shop that they were selling for $15 so I could do a putter restoration. I'd been putting it off for awhile now but your post has inspired me to get back to it! 

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@Superjoemofo Great job on the putter restore! It looks awesome!

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6 hours ago, MDGolfHacker said: @Superjoemofo Great job on the putter restore! It looks awesome!   MDGolfHacker

Thanks! Still kicking myself that I didn't take before pictures... 

6 hours ago, longdrivenate said: @Superjoemofo  that putter looks great! I picked up an old Ping putter at my local golf shop that they were selling for $15 so I could do a putter restoration. I'd been putting it off for awhile now but your post has inspired me to get back to it! 

Thanks, it actually didn't take that long... hoping to come across some more goodies rummaging and thrifting... Great feeling bringing something back to life like this... look forward to seeing your work!

GIRplus3Putt

On 1/21/2021 at 9:22 PM, longdrivenate said: Thank you! I took them to the range today. Wow, do I ever appreciate the advancements in golf club technology now! They are much harder to hit consistently and compared to my P790s, the distances (even on pure strikes) were about 2 full clubs shorter. Still very fun to hit and the sound/feel on pure strikes is pretty amazing. I'll try to get some video and launch monitor data another day if that's of any interest. 

Wow! That is so cool! You did an amazing job. I would love to get into something like this if I had the time. Maybe one day. I am kind of late to this post (new to MGS), but did you ever take any video or launch monitor data on those beauties? 

Go Blue! Hail to the victors!

On 1/18/2021 at 12:17 PM, longdrivenate said: The deburring was the part that took the most skill and I think I could improve upon the most with more practice. I was able to get some of the nicks and dings out, but not completely and I think to do better, I would need a more coarse wheel, but then I would have to be careful to not grind away too much metal. It seems like a fine line to walk so that you can improve the look of the club but also not change the structure or weight at all. Overall, I'm very happy with how it turned out .

I actually just restored my BB X-12s over the weekend, and used a medium grit sctoch Brite pad on an angle grinder and was able to remove 99% of the scratches and dings... then just sanded and sanded and sanded sanded..... finally hit them on a wheel... I was shocked. After the paint they look like new... 

• 1 year later...

Have a titles tour model pw, but it is marked 10 not P on it, any idea what model year it is?

Very well done! 

WITB:  Do I like Titleist or what? 

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• Classic Golf And Golfers

1983 Titleist Tour Model 821

By smashdn December 6, 2018 in Classic Golf And Golfers

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Buddy has a lead on a set along with some laminate titleist woods. Report is the irons are in decent enough shape, may have true temper shafts and have leather wrap grips.

Any idea on value or what would be a fair price to pay or start the negotiating from? He is really only interested in the irons but if the woods come in the deal so much the better.

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Dec 13 2018

I bought a set of 1981 tour model irons for $25. Unless they are like new or really desirable I wouldn't pay more than $2 to $3 per club.

southplains

The 821's are a very nice club, especially with leather grips. Alas, their market value is gone.

I listed mine (very good condtion) with half-cord grips on Ebay for auction beginning at $25 and got zero bids.

Laminate woods are worth even less, although very playable.

Anyone possessing such clubs may prefer to keep them, rather than sell so cheaply.

The market for 80's clubs may take a century or so to come back up.

The 821's are a very nice club, especially with leather grips. Alas, their market value is gone. I listed mine (very good condtion) with half-cord grips on Ebay for auction beginning at $25 and got zero bids. Laminate woods are worth even less, although very playable. Anyone possessing such clubs may prefer to keep them, rather than sell so cheaply. The market for 80's clubs may take a century or so to come back up.

Driver--- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha--- Speeder 565 R flex

7W --- TM V Steel UST Pro Force 65 R flex

Irons 5 thru 9 1985 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

PW-- 1962 Macgregor FC-400 11 iron Pro Pel 2 shaft

SW -- Callaway Mac Daddy 52* 

LW Vokey SM5 L Grind 58* 04 bounce Stock Vokey Shaft

Putter -- Ping Zing 2 SS Fluted Bulls Eye shaft

Down to only 11 clubs playing the best since my accident

I found my 821 pic's, for posterity. I'll see if I can remember how to paste them in here.

Maybe you have to play them to really appreciate them. I think the matching woods

are persimmon.

He picked them up and has already started cleaning them and redoing the paint fill. Not sure if the irons have the leather grips or if it was just the woods but he got those too.

He's a member here but I highly doubt he has ever made it into this corner of the forums.

These were made when Titleist was establishing a club presence on the Tours, hence the TOUR MODEL designation.

To my knowledge, there weren't any LH 821 models.

That's because we're "Special." ;)

All Forged, all the time. The Sets that see regular playing time... 67 Spalding Top-Flite Professional, Cleveland Classic Persimmon Driver, 3 & 4 Spalding Top-Flite Persimmon Woods, TPM Putter. 71 Wilson Staff Button Backs, Wilson System 3000 Persimmon Driver, 3 & 5 Woods, Wilson Sam Snead Pay-Off Putter. 95 Snake Eyes S&W Forged, Snake Eyes 600T Driver, Viper MS 18* & 21* Woods, 252 & 258 Vokeys, Golfsmith Zero Friction Putter. 2015 Wilson Staff FG Tour F5, TaylorMade Superfast Driver, 16.5* Fairway, & 21* Hybrid, Harmonized SW & LW, Tour Edge Feel2 Putter.

That day he took my hogan persimmon driver and hit it within one yard of his modern driver I think something clicked in him. He's a good player so the butterknife blade old irons don't phase him.

"Yes, let the hate flow. Come take your spot beside me."

I think the stock 821 shafts are True Temper Dynamic S with "821" embossed on the shaft label.

The next year's 841 model, my personal favorite, narrowed the sole a little and filled in the

muscle on the back. I guess that flighted the ball a little lower. The shafts changed to Dynamic

Gold. Somewhere in that time frame, they started inserting Sensicore vibration dampeners in the tips.

I just found the 821 iron specs on the Titleist history site:

https://www.titleist.com/golf-clubs/irons/1983-tour-model-821

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