air intake for kawasaki voyager 1700

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Big air kits 1500 1600 1700 BAK

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• Kawasaki Vulcan FI Nomad (VN1500 Vn1600) $245.00
• Kawasaki Vulcan FI Classic (VN1600) (Single Plate Only) $235.00
• Kawasaki Vulcan Mean Streak FI (Single Plate Only) $235.00
• Kawasaki Voyager, Vaquero, Nomad, and Classic (VN1700) $247.00
• Kawasaki Voyager, Vaquero, Nomad, and Classic (VN1700)  Teardrop style  $325.00
• Dual Plates are needed to use the stock “dog bowl” cover on the FI engine set-up VN1500 and VN 1600 Nomad
• Single Plate System (open filter style) for FI set-ups
• The kits for the VN1700 use the stock air filter cover over the system, or I have the Tear drop style
• All kits come complete with K-N Filter and all other necessary Hardware components.

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Air intake kits

Moderators: the2knights , Highway Rider

Post by gsinclair » Fri Apr 25, 2014 6:31 pm

Re: Air intake kits

Post by 1700Guy » Fri Apr 25, 2014 8:05 pm

Post by NSASarge » Tue Jun 17, 2014 4:16 am

Post by bobber » Sun Jul 13, 2014 1:31 am

Post by Terros » Wed Jul 16, 2014 4:11 pm

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STRAIGHT SIX VULCAN 1700 & VAQUERO AIR CLEANER KIT

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2015 Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Voyager Air Intake & Filters

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Just ordered my air intake. Pretty excited to have it come in. Going to set up the appointment with my local dealer (I actually have a pretty good and trustworthy one). Going to do the big three with dyno tuning. V&H slip ons, PCV and the Chucksters air kit. Hoping that will wake everything up nicely. The Voyager is a big girl. A little more snort won't hurt her.  

Pass on the PVC- head straight to Ivan then no need for dyno Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

I've read up on the Ivan re-flash, and it sounds great, but... My bike is still under full extended warranty until June of 2019. My dealer will honor all aspects of the Kawasaki warranty if they do the install and dyno tuning with the PCV, but will not honor the warranty if the ECU is re-flashed by a third party. I'll pay my money on the dyno and the install and I'm sure I'll be happy with the results compared to stock. The peace of mind of still having a full warranty for the next almost 2 years is more important to me.  

toodamtall said: ...My dealer will not honor the warranty if the ECU is re-flashed by a third party... Click to expand...

From Kawasaki's website: EXCLUSIONS FROM COVERAGE . Repair or replacement required as a result of (i) accident or collision; (ii) misuse, abuse or neglect; (iii) lack of reasonable and proper maintenance; (iv) repairs improperly performed or replacement parts improperly installed by an entity other than an authorized Kawasaki dealer; (v) use of replacement parts or accessories not conforming to Kawasaki specifications which adversely affect performance and/or durability; (vi) alterations or modifications not recommended or approved in writing by Kawasaki; or (vii) wear and deterioration (including loss of engine compression) occasioned by the use of the Product. Pay special attention to articles V though VII. It becomes a gray area, and would likely be more expense/hassle than it would be worth to fight it, should something go wrong and the dealer, mine or another, decide not to honor the warranty.  

The Magnuson-Moss Act allows that mods done while under warranty will not affect the manu's warranty UNLESS the failure can be traced to the mod. HOWEVER, as toodamtall points out, there are areas for concern. The PCM controls so many performance issues that virtually any engine and/or electrical malfunction could be blamed on the PCM/ECU mod. The point is, mod your bikes with the knowledge that you could have warranty issues, then be prepared for potential coverage issues when something fails.  

I have seen other riders post on this forum that their dealers sent out the ECU's to IVAN because of the benefits achieved from the flash upgrade. Guess it depends on your dealer.  

Any updates on this? Very curious to see the results of the mods as I was looking to do the same combo of the three. Would appreciate any feed back. Thanks!  

Better late than never, lol. It's only taken me a year to get back on here... Very happy with the mods to this date. I was going to add the dyno chart but my pdf file is too large. Max RWHP 73.07 @ 5200 rpm Max RWTQ 86.9 @ 3750 rpm. The telling part about the torque, however, is that the curve is ridiculously flat. I'm making over 70 lb/ft at the rear wheel from 2200rpm all the way to 5500rpm. The flatter torque curve has allowed me to change my riding style a little bit, which resulted in a + change in gas mileage. I was averaging around 36.5mpg stock. I am currently averaging 39.4mpg now. Nearly a full 3mpg increase. Also added a Mustang wide touring seat and a Corbin passenger backrest. Running Metzelers on both ends too.  

toodamtall said: It's only taken me a year to get back on here... Very happy with the mods to this date. I was going to add the dyno chart but my pdf file is too large. Max RWHP 73.07 @ 5200 rpm Max RWTQ 86.9 @ 3750 rpm. The telling part about the torque, however, is that the curve is ridiculously flat. I'm making over 70 lb/ft at the rear wheel from 2200rpm all the way to 5500rpm. The flatter torque curve has allowed me to change my riding style a little bit, which resulted in a + change in gas mileage. I was averaging around 36.5mpg stock. I am currently averaging 39.4mpg now. Nearly a full 3mpg increase. Also added a Mustang wide touring seat and a Corbin passenger backrest. Running Metzelers on both ends too. Click to expand...

I wonder if the Metzelers might have lower rolling resistance (or higher) which might affect your gas mileage. Also curious about the giraffe- I grew up in Africa until the age of 20, my daughter and her family still live in Zimbabwe. Are you from there?  

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kawasaki voyager 1700 spark plug replacement

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Spark plug change

Moderators: the2knights , Highway Rider

Post by Littlebeaver » Wed Apr 08, 2015 4:34 am

Re: Spark plug change

Post by SgtSlag » Wed Apr 08, 2015 2:51 pm

Post by Littlebeaver » Wed Apr 08, 2015 4:40 pm

Post by Littlebeaver » Sat Apr 18, 2015 8:39 pm

Post by kjsett » Sun Apr 19, 2015 1:14 am

Post by Littlebeaver » Sun Apr 19, 2015 4:36 am

Post by Bob in Tucson » Sat May 09, 2015 10:16 am

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NGK Iridium Sparkplug ILZKAR7B11 for Kawasaki Vulcan Voyager (ABS) VN1700 2009-2018

Purchase options and add-ons, about this item.

• See fitment guide image for additional Machines this item fits. Sold individually.
• Laser Iridium spark plugs provide superior ignitability and long service life. Smallest tip diameter available Iridium surfaces ensure slow wear rate providing stable idle, superior anti-fouling, improved fuel efficiency and lower emissions.
• Laser welded Iridium center electrode tip.
• Platinum disc welded to backside of ground electrode provides long life.
• Trivalent Metal Plating for superior anti-corrosion and anti-seizing.

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-Faster starts and quicker acceleration. -Better fuel economy and lower emissions.

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Kawasaki Spark Plug Fitment Chart

If you need to change your Kawasaki’s spark plugs but you’re not sure of the size or if you want to upgrade your plugs to an iridium version for a longer-lasting plug, this is the guide for you.

We’ve listed every Kwacker model we can find. If you know if any others, add a comment below and we’ll add them to the list.

Table of Contents

Reading your spark plug.

The image of the spark plugs above shows four common conditions that you’ll find your spark plugs in. From left to right the plugs are Normal, Rich, Lean and Very Lean. Full descriptions below.

Before you throw your old spark plug in the bin, check them to get an understanding of how well your engine is running.

Normal condition

If the plug is brown or light grey your can assume your engine is in good condition and the spark plug is functioning well. Even when a plug is in good condition small deposits will accumulate. This is normal.

There are many different causes of spark plug fouling. If the plug has oil on it, then it’s oiling up and may not work efficiently, potentially causing a misfire or stuttering under hard acceleration. If it’s just dark or black the bike could be running too rich. A heavy accumulation of carbon on the nose can cause a leakage path to earth. This can cause misfires and poor engine starting.

Causes: The causes of this can be anything from, a rich fuel mixture, too much choke, long periods of low-speed riding or idling in traffic, a blocked air filter or the plug’s heat range is too cold.

If the engine is running lean then the spark plug has a grey colour but you’ll probably see some black deposits on there too.

Causes: Insufficient cooling, blocked injectors, too lean a fuel mixture

If the engine is running dangerously lean the whole plug tip will be grey or white. If the temperature is over 850-degrees, pre-ignition may occur. Engine power will be reduced and you risk piston damage.

Causes: Insufficient cooling, blocked injectors, too lean a fuel mixture, ignition timing too far advanced, excessive combustion chamber deposits.

Motorcycle Spark Plug Fitting Guide + Tips

• When you’ve removed your spark plugs, check the condition of the threads in the cylinder head and put a cloth over the cylinder head if you’re going to leave it exposed.
• Install each spark plug by hand until you have wound the thread a couple of turns. This reduces the chances of you cross-threading the plug.
• Torque the spark plug up to your manufacturer’s recommended settings. If you don’t have a torque wrench, then get the plug hand tight and then add a ½ turn for a plug with a gasket, and more like a ¼ turn for a tapered spark plug. Over-tightening can snap the spark plug – a nightmare.
• Don’t put any lubricant or thread lock on the spark plug. Inspect your spark plug caps and replace if required.

Iridium Spark Plug vs Standard

A regular spark plug uses a copper central electrode whereas an iridium spark plug uses, you guessed it, iridium.

The metal in a spark plug has a single purpose: to channel the electrical energy through the spark plug. Iridium is far harder than copper and this allows the spark plug manufacturers to create a plug with a sharper ‘tip’ which better focuses the spark around the centre electrode without compromising its service life.

A typical copper spark plug will last around 20,000 miles and most get changed at a major service (usually around 16,000 miles) but an iridium spark plug will be good for around 50,000 miles and you do see people running them to 100,000 miles with no issues.

Copper is generally seen as being the best metal to use in terms of conductivity but iridium plugs are seen as premium as they last longer than standard plugs and can be built with smaller tolerances. Iridium spark plugs also have lower voltage requirements, meaning they perform better when starting and idling and some manufacturers also claim they offer a better throttle response.

Iridium plugs are more expensive than copper but seeing as they last longer and offer a more consistent performance throughout their lifetime, many bikes opt for an iridium ‘upgrade’.

Spark Plug Removal

If you’re going to be doing any sort of work on the bike, treat yourself to a decent set of tools. Most of mine are from the Halfords Advanced range (formerly called Professional).

They have a lifetime guarantee and for an amateur bodger like me, they’re perfect.

The image above shows their 100pc range, which costs around £125 . It’s a comprehensive bit of kit and includes a 1/4″, 3/8″ and 1/2″ drive, alongside plug sockets, universal joints and a wobble bar. Pretty much everything you’ll ever need for any motorcycle maintenance job.

Motorcycle Spark Plug Removal Tools

If you’ve not changed your plugs before, give yourself a couple of hours to complete the task. Here are the essentials you need for smooth re-plugging:

Your owner’s manual You’ll need this to help you find the location of your spark plugs and how to access them. This may sound simple but often the manual offers up some time-saving tips for your particular model.

A spark plug socket You’ll need a deep socket. A decent tool kit will have them. Don’t get confused between thread size and socket size. Motorcycle spark plug socket sizes are usually 16mm, 18mm or 20.6mm (21mm will do). Whereas the threads are usually 10mm, 12mm or 14mm. When it comes to motorcycles, access is usually tricky, so my tip is to buy a magnetic spark plug socket like this one . Once you’ve undone your old plug, this will help you remove it with far less effing and jeffing.

A wobble socket / universal joint You’ll be lucky if there’s a straight line to your spark plug, so a universal joint will get you the angle you need to apply some torque. Again, a decent toolset will have one.

A 3/8″ drive You could buy a specific spark plug T-bar but your home tool kit will have the drive you need to connect to your plug sockets.

A spark plug gap gauge This nifty little tool only costs a few quid and will help you set the correct gap for your spark plug. However, modern plugs are almost all motorcycle-specific fit and so they come ‘pre-gapped’ and you won’t need to touch them. If you’re running a classic bike, you’ll probably need to set your gap and if your bike’s not running right, a gap tool can help you rule out a potential incorrect gap issue.

A torque wrench It’s important to properly torque your spark plugs. Too tight and you’ll risk snapping it or it will be a mission to remove. Too loose and you risk an electrical short. Your owner’s manual will have the correct torque settings.

Motorcycle Spark Plug FAQ

What are the common motorcycle spark plug sizes? Thread diameters of 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm are the most common. In fact, when it comes to motorcycles, it's rare to find any other sizes in use.

How long should a spark plug last? Motorcycle spark plugs usually last around 16,000 miles, or at least this is when most manufacturer service schedules recommend you change them. That's typically once every other major service. However if you use Iridium spark plugs they will last a lot longer, usually well over 30,000 miles.

How do you clean motorcycle spark plugs? Just remove the plug and use a wire brush to gently brush off any deposits on the electrode. Don't use a power tool, by hand is all that's required.

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how do you change plugs on kawasaki 1700 nomad?

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how do you change plugs on kawasaki 1700 nomad? can you send instructions to [email protected] thanx  

Email sent.  

could you send that email to me too?? thanks [email protected]  

what about just posting the instructions (anti social !)  

• Remove: Fuel Tank (see Fuel Tank Removal in the Fuel System (DFI) chapter) Spark Plug Caps • Remove the spark plug using a 14 mm (0.55 in.) plug wrench vertically. CAUTION The insulator of the spark plug may break if when the wrench is inclined during loosening. Inclined Spark Plug Wrench • Replace the spark plug with a new one. Standard Spark Plug Type: NGK ILZKAR7B11 • Insert the new spark plug and plug wrench in the plug hole, and finger-tighten it first. • Using the plug wrench vertically, tighten the plug. CAUTION The insulator of the spark plug may break if when the wrench is inclined during tightening. Torque - Spark Plugs: 18 N·m (1.8 kgf·m, 13 ft·lb) • Install the spark plug caps securely. • Be sure the spark plug caps are installed by pulling up it lightly.  

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Modern spark plugs last much longer than those from just a decade ago. I am not sure which 1700 you are referring to but I changed the plugs on an 09 Nomad without removing the tank. It was a wast of time and money. There is a sticky at the top of the 1700 forum that will walk you through removing the tank, the pictures are blurred by the "at ...

I was doing some maintenance on my 2012 Kawasaki Voyager and changed the spark plugs. This should be the same process for the Kawasaki Vaquero. If you find t...

The 1700's have a damn fine spark plug, both in design and materials used. It is of the "projected tip" design which in my testing offers advantages over non projected tip plugs. It also utilizes Iridium for the center electrode, Iridium is a very hard material and NOT subject to electrode erosion like copper or platinum plugs.

syrnix. 193 posts · Joined 2008. #2 · Feb 2, 2012. I went to my Kawasaki Deal to ask for new plugs on my 1700 Nomad and told me that the plugs in the 1700 should last last a long time 50K or more. I have 20K on my nomad and he said don't waste your money on new plugs with only 20K on th bike. plus the plugs were 26 bucks each.

Spark Plugs. This is for general posts and questions concerning only the Voyager XII (1200cc, Four-cylinder) Years 1986 thru 2003. ... ↳ Rider 1986 Article on the introduction of the Kawasaki Voyager XII; ↳ June 1985 1300 Voyager Comparison; ... Voyager 1700 V-Twin; ↳ AVA Voyagers 1300 1200 and 1700 Tech Center;

How to change voyager spark plugs and the steps needed to be able to reach the rear plugs. I will show you how to remove the cowl to give more clearence to ...

PERIODICMAINTENANCE2-71 PeriodicMaintenanceProcedures ClutchSlaveCylinderPistonSealReplacement •Removetheenginepulleyoutercover(seeEnginePulley ...

Join Date: Sep 2011. Location: SOUTH FLORIDA. Posts: 1,210. The plugs used in the 1700's are designed for the 1700 engine and I have found no cross reference. They are a very good design in many ways. It has been my experience that on engines with large bores multiple spark plugs per cylinder (usually 2 per cyl) are better than a single plug.

Re: Spark plug change. by SgtSlag » Wed Apr 08, 2015 3:51 pm. Somebody posted a long time ago, the suggestion of using a rubber hose to install/remove plugs. Get a hose that fits snugly over the plug top, insert the plug into the hole, and carefully twist it in place by holding the hose.

Buy NGK Iridium Sparkplug ILZKAR7B11 for Kawasaki Vulcan Voyager (ABS) VN1700 2009-2018: Spark Plugs - Amazon.com FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases ... Autolite Iridium XP Automotive Replacement Spark Plugs, XP5683 (4 Pack) 1,013. $25.84 $ 25. 84. 0:40 . Autolite Iridium XP Automotive Replacement Spark Plugs, XP5683 (4 Pack) 1,013 ...

The image above shows their 100pc range, which costs around £125. It's a comprehensive bit of kit and includes a 1/4″, 3/8″ and 1/2″ drive, alongside plug sockets, universal joints and a wobble bar. Pretty much everything you'll ever need for any motorcycle maintenance job.

Spark Plug: ILZKAR7B11; Drive Belt Teeth: 139; Oil Filter: 301005; ... 2013 Kawasaki VN1700A Vulcan Voyager products. Filter Results. View Results Availability In Stock Only (148) Ride Types ... Replacement 10 Inch Smoke Windshield - S-192-10DS Slip Streamer. $80.06 Part #: ...

Kawasaki Spark Plug Fitment Chart. If you need to change your Kawasaki's spark plugs but you're not sure of the size or if you want to upgrade your plugs to an iridium version

Vulcan 1700 Voyager ABS; Owner's Manual; 2018 Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Voyager ABS Owner's Manual (Page 163 of 241) 2019 Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Voyager ABS; 2018 Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Vo

Ivhaveca 2023 kawasaki vulcan voyager 1700 last year when i bought it i had lots of issues over heating the dealer sent the computer out to be Ivins and put ice cooling in it the bike dont get hot now i put 4000km on it but it very hard on fuel so i was wondering about changing the spark plugs do the bike very hot a few time way past red line ...

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What size socket for the spark plugs. ... 2011 Voyager 1700 Ebony/Pearl Meteor Gray Bridgestone Exedra Max tires in stock sizes ... A forum community dedicated to Kawasaki Vulcan motorcycle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, Vulcan 1500, Vulcan 2000, Vulcan 500, Vulcan 1600, Vulcan 900 and all ...

the wrench is inclined during tightening. Torque - Spark Plugs: 18 N·m (1.8 kgf·m, 13 ft·lb) • Install the spark plug caps securely. • Be sure the spark plug caps are installed by pulling up it. lightly. 2010 Voyager. Roaring Twinz Air Kit. Thunder Manufacturing dress-up plate. VN1500 kickstand.