patagonia travel guide book

How to Travel to Patagonia: The Essential Guide for Visitors

By Author Steph Dyson

Posted on Last updated: 24th January 2024

Turquoise lagoons perched beneath sharp, granite pillars and reached only by spellbinding hiking trails; chattering Magellanic and king penguin colonies; slow but magical boat journeys through untamed waters; glaciers towering higher than apartment blocks that calve house-sized bergs into icy waters below.

It’s fair to say that by choosing to travel to Patagonia, a wealth of unforgettable sights await.

Having found international fame as a truly beyond-the-beaten trail travel destination in recent years, Patagonia – a sparsely inhabited region that comprises the southern stretches of both Chile and Argentina – is increasingly finding its way onto travel itineraries and bucket lists .

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A complete Patagonia travel guide

But, as with much of South America, this region can feel like a hard place to travel.

Planning a trip to Patagonia can be a challenge, due in part to just how big it is (at around one million square kilometers, it’s roughly the same size as Egypt or twice the size of Spain – although the exact definition of where Patagonia is is open to debate) and a lack of useful logistical information.

The vast majority of emails I receive each week revolve around questions about travel to Patagonia, with the nitty-gritty details of organizing a vacation in Patagonia or a longer-term trip something that my readers complain is hard to find online.

Patagonia is the place I’ve written most about over the last two years. I’ve spent around four months in the region, on three different occasions, the most recently on a research trip covering Chilean and Argentinean Patagonia for the new Moon Chile travel guidebook .

Need more inspiration?

You’ll find even more detailed itineraries, off-the-beaten-path gems, hiking routes and accommodation, restaurant and tour recommendations to suit your travel style in my brand-new guidebook, Moon Chile.

I’ve trawled the entire region, hiked many of its most acclaimed trails, slept beneath expansive, unpolluted night skies, and traveled by boat to almost the very tip of the South American continent.

All of this information has been used to inform this Patagonia travel guide and I’ve included links to plenty of other articles on Worldly Adventurer that have further details to help you in your trip planning.

In this guide, you can expect to learn about how to actually get to Patagonia , the best times and places to visit, and how to travel or backpack through the region on a budget . I’ve included as many details as possible to save you time, money, and stress on your trip.

If you’ve got questions, don’t hesitate to comment below or drop me an email .

Planning Your Trip to Patagonia?

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What previous clients have said:

“It’s refreshing to find someone with insider knowledge that can take you off the beaten track, away from the mainstream. I particularly liked the detail you give; where to stay and your favourite places. We stayed in some lovely places because of your knowledge, places that we would probably never have found. I also liked the fact that we could ask you questions whilst on the move. Lots to like Steph!”

Why go to Patagonia?

Patagonia is a hiker’s paradise.

Not only do you have the now world-renowned trails of Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia, but across the border, Los Glaciares National Park is becoming an increasingly popular destination, particularly as visitor numbers to the Chilean national park rise exponentially each year.

But Patagonia is more than just hiking trails. Road tripping in Patagonia either along the Carretera Austral (Chile), through the wildernesses of Tierra del Fuego (Chile), or down Ruta 40 (Argentina) are equally memorable experiences.

Hitchhiking is another way of not only exploring Patagonia on a budget but also offers up incomparable chances to meet local people.

And then there’s the wildlife, ranging from elusive big cats to humpback whales and penguins and the vast glacier fields, where you can hike over millennial ice or even drink it in a cold glass of whisky.

As a region so far removed from the rest of both Argentina and Chile, life here is unique. A local saying, “el que se apura en la Patagonia, pierde el tiempo”, sums up everything you need to know about Patagonia: “he who rushes in Patagonia loses time”.

To truly get under the skin of this region, time is what you need. At least a month is recommended for seeing as much of Patagonia as possible (you can read my recommended three-week and one-month itineraries here ).

However, a shorter trip still offers some time to experience the region (these one and two-week itineraries can help you plan).

Just be aware that you visit Patagonia at your peril; it’s the kind of place that you find yourself returning to over and over again.

As they say in Patagonia, if you eat the local Calafate berry (it’s particularly delicious in a pisco sour), then you’ll be back in the future.

How to plan your Patagonia trip

The following information is the product of months of travel in Patagonia and I hope you find it useful for planning yours!

I often get asked: “Do I need a tour to explore Patagonia?”. As the information below highlights, then no, it isn’t necessary to have a tour.

Argentina economy update

The Argentine economy is a huge mess at the moment, with inflation expected to hit 200% this year. Using Argentine pesos can therefore be a nightmare – and mean you lose a lot of money. The blue dollar (an unofficial exchange rate that gives you a better conversion than the official rate) is around, but if you want to avoid carrying lots of cash, you can now pay using your credit card and get an exchange rate similar to the blue dollar rate. You must choose to pay in Argentine pesos (not USD!) to secure this rate.

Both Mastercard and Visa give you what is called the MEP rate, which is almost as good as the blue dollar rate. Mastercard will charge you the official rate but refund you the money a few days later; Visa will charge you the MEP rate from the beginning.

If you do want to have some Argentine pesos for paying in cash (which I highly recommend as you will need them for some restaurants and attractions), it’s best to use Western Union, whereby you send cash to yourself using the Western Union app and then withdraw it in Argentine pesos from one of their branches in Argentina. Bear in mind, those in El Calafate and Ushuaia can run dry of notes, so it can be easiest to do this in Buenos Aires.

Additionally, you can bring USD (unmarked and untorn hundred dollar bills), which you can exchange at “cuevas” (unofficial exchange houses). These will be able to give you the blue dollar rate and any hotel owner will be able to tell you where your nearest one is. Souvenir shops in most parts of the country will be able to give you pesos in exchange for dollar bills – although they might not give you the best rate.

Avoid cash machines. Currently, the maximum withdrawal is the equivalent of $15 USD in Argentine pesos and it will cost you $10 USD in fees.

While Patagonia is vast and the logistics of organizing your trip can be complicated, ultimately it’s far cheaper to do so alone.

I have a whole section of the blog dedicated to Patagonia travel , so you can head there for further Patagonia travel resources and guides.

However, if you want more guidance, there are various options available to you.

Firstly, I offer a Patagonia trip planning service , where I plan your full itinerary for your vacation in Patagonia using my expert knowledge of the region . I’ve had 150+ happy customers since I started offering the service in 2018 and can guarantee that the service will save you time, money and stress.

If leaving all of the planning and booking to someone else sounds even better, I have partnerships with local companies where you can get a discount for being a Worldly Adventurer reader:

• Chile Nativo can organize private trekking tours in Torres del Paine National Park (great if you’re struggling to book accommodation last minute) as well as across Patagonia. They offer a 5% discount and you need to use the discount referral code “Worldly Adventurer” when you book. Find out more here .
• EcoChile Travel run fully custom-made tours across Chile and Patagonia, organizing every step of the process. They also offer a 5% discount to Worldly Adventurer readers; just mention us when you enquire!

When to go to Patagonia

Patagonia’s extreme southern location means there are certain months of the year when it’s a better time to visit. However, when to travel to Patagonia depends a lot on what exactly you want to do there.

Although the exact limits of Patagonia remain debated (as it’s a region shared by two countries and not a nation), it theoretically starts at 41˚ south (Bariloche, Argentina) and ends at 56.5˚ south (Águila Islet, Chile).

As a result, snowfall is relatively common during winter, while blustering westerly winds are an issue throughout the year.

Patagonia in December through February: the Austral summer

The most popular time to visit Patagonia is during the Austral summer. Visiting Patagonia in December, January or February is when temperatures are at their highest, peaking at around 22°C (72°F).

However, because of the winds, which, are strongest in the summer and can hit up to 120 km/h (74 miles/h), the temperature can feel a few degrees cooler.

Weather systems also change rapidly, particularly in places such as Torres del Paine National Park, where you can often experience four seasons in one day: namely baking sunshine, cool breezes, rainfall, and even snow.

December, January, and February are also the best months for hiking and other outdoor activities in Patagonia, where it’s recommendable to wear layers, so you can layer up when it suddenly turns cold, or strip down if the sun comes out.

It’s also a good season for wildlife watching , as penguin colonies at Magdalena Island (Isla Magdalena) near Punta Arenas, Punta Tombo near Puerto Madryn and at Bahía Inútil on the island of Tierra del Fuego, arrive to nest from September until the end of March.

Humpback, minke and blue whales, Commerson’s and bottlenose dolphins, toninas (the Chilean dolphin), plus South American sea lions, and even otters can regularly be spied in the waters off the coasts of different parts of Patagonia.

Ferry journeys through Chilean Patagonia, such as the Navimag ferry from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales or the boat between Punta Arenas and Puerto Williams offer excellent opportunities for seeing marine mammals.

However, these months are when everyone travels to the region. Patagonia in January and February is particularly busy , as this is when most Chileans and Argentineans have their summer holidays.

As a result, buses and accommodations get booked up, trails are heaving with hikers and for those who like a bit of flexibility in their travel plans, it can be difficult to visit the region without having reserved everything a good few months in advance.

Patagonia travel tip: You’ll need to book your accommodation and campgrounds in Torres del Paine, at least four months before you plan to hike. Reservations theoretically open in June/July but if you email the companies directly, you can often get a reservation before this time. Get more information about organizing the Torres del Paine W trek without a tour .

Patagonia in September to November and March to May: fall and spring

I’ll admit that I’ve never traveled to Patagonia during the peak Argentinean and Chilean summer season.

Instead, I’ve always opted for the shoulder season: September through November and March through April.

The reason for this is that for me, the magic of Patagonia is in its sense of remote, untouched wildness – something that gets lost when it’s full of other tourists.

Personally, I think that the best time of the year to go to Patagonia is in the months that bookend the Austral summer.

Temperatures are still pleasant enough: in spring (October-November) temperatures hit up to 18°C (64°F) , while in fall (March-April) they hover around 10°C (50°F), although in my experience, when the sun’s out, it can feel a lot warmer.

Overnight temperatures can drop to below freezing during these months, so bring plenty of warm clothing if you’re going to be camping.

During both, rainfall is a possibility – but this is Patagonia: rainfall is always a possibility!

September and May are months that I would avoid if you’re planning on traveling independently, however . Both are just outside of the typical shoulder seasons and few, if any, tourist facilities are open during these months.

In Torres del Paine National Park, for example, you must hire a guide if visiting in these months, while trails in many other national parks are closed due to snow. The Carretera Austral can also be tricky because of snowfall and ice on the road.

In spring , the landscapes awaken to the prospect of a new year, with plants and greenery covering much of the mountainous west of the region, while in fall , it’s a great time for photographers as the lenga and Southern beech forests that cover much of Patagonia turn golden and orange with the approach of winter.

For both of these periods, crowds are fewer. Don’t underestimate the difference that this can make.

Following troops of hikers, 20-people deep, around the boardwalks of the Perito Moreno Glacier near El Calafate and elbowing them out of the way when you try and get a shot of the ice, isn’t personally my idea of fun.

Outside of peak season, accommodation and flights can sometimes be more inexpensive too and for the former, it’s often possible to even turn up without a reservation.

However, bear in mind that particularly in September and October and April and May, many restaurants, hotels and hostels, and tour agencies close for the year, meaning you might find yourself out of luck.

This is particularly the case along the Carretera Austral, where many of the towns seem to go into hibernation outside of summer.

Buses also return to their infrequent schedules, making a trip only possible if you have the time to wait sometimes a few days for the next one.

It’s also worth noting that winter sets in fast. On my first visit to Patagonia, I vividly remember shivering next to a wood fire in a hostel in Coyhaique despite wearing practically all of my clothes, so pack for cold weather.

Patagonia travel tip: Every time you arrive in a new place, you’ll want to double-check the bus timetables to be sure of when the next one is leaving. In spring and fall in Patagonia , you may find yourself waiting at least a few days for the next departure.

Patagonia in June through August: the Austral winter

Patagonia in winter is a unique experience. Heavy snowfall coats much of the region, particularly on the Chilean side, lending the landscapes a magical atmosphere.

As a result, traveling to and around Patagonia can be very difficult and you’ll find buses and even flights into the region have reduced timetables during the months of June through August.

What’s more, many hostels and hotels don’t have central heating and it can get seriously cold at night, even with access to a wood fire or gas heater.

Hiking trails can also end up being closed as snowfall and challenging conditions make them unsafe. In the last couple of years, Torres del Paine National Park has opened to tourists in winter, however, you must go with a licensed guide.

If you are planning to visit the park during this months, I recommend checking out Chile Nativo, a local operator who organize winter W treks (and give Worldly Adventurer readers a 5% discount if you use the discount referral code “Worldly Adventurer” when you book).

Los Glaciares and Tierra del Fuego national parks in Argentina are both open throughout the year, also be aware that trails often close due to snowfall and you can expect temperatures to drop to only a little above freezing during the day.

National parks along the Carretera Austral on the Chilean side are hard to visit in winter, mainly because much of the road (particularly south of Coyhaique) is unpaved and can be problematic after heavy rainfall or snow. Many of the lodgings outside of Coyhaique close for the winter.

However, Bariloche (theoretically the very northern tip of Patagonia – although this is debated ) is home to Cerro Catedral , Argentina’s top ski resort – and one of the best in South America. It has modern runs and lifts and plenty of places to stay during the night. You can expect snow between mid-June and September.

Patagonia travel tip: If you are planning on traveling to Patagonia in winter, I would recommend booking accommodation in advance, or at least confirming that hotels and other lodgings are available, as many close down when they don’t have guests.

How to get to Patagonia

The easiest way of getting to Patagonia depends on the side you wish to visit. Because Patagonia isn’t a country but a region divided between Argentina and Chile, there are various different ways to get to Patagonia.

Getting to Chilean Patagonia

Chilean Patagonia can be a bit of a headache to reach. Why?

You’ll notice if you look at the south of Chile on a map that the north of Patagonia (connected by the Carretera Austral – a road that goes from Puerto Montt in the north to Villa O’Higgins in the south) is actually separated from southern Patagonia by the Southern Patagonian Icefield.

This means it is virtually impossible to travel by road from Puerto Natales directly to the Carretera Austral.

There are ways – which I’ll discuss shortly – but bear in mind that if you want to see both Northern Chile and Southern Chile, you will likely have to cross into Argentinean Patagonia at some point. More on that later!

There are various different options for getting to Patagonia from Santiago. The cheapest way to get to Patagonia from Santiago is generally by flying – although it depends on when you book.

I always recommend comparing prices on Skyscanner.com and then booking directly with the companies themselves. This means that if there’s an issue with your flight or the timings need to change, you can communicate directly with the company rather than an intermediary.

Where to fly into Chilean Patagonia

Flying into Patagonia is often cheaper on the Chilean side than in Argentinean Patagonia, as Chile has more budget airline carriers.

• Jetsmart is the most inexpensive, although it operates fewer flights than other companies and you often have to pay an additional fee for hold baggage.
• Sky Airline is medium priced and has regular flights into Patagonia and again, you pay more for hold luggage.
• LATAM generally has the highest frequency of departures but they’re generally far more expensive. Hold luggage is normally included in the price.

Northern Chilean Patagonia and the Carretera Austral

The easiest way to get to Northern Patagonia and the Carretera Austral is via a flight or bus from Santiago to Puerto Montt (PMC) , the latter a city located just at the top of the Carretera Austral and from where there are plenty of onward connections south. The flight time to Puerto Montt is around one hour and 40 minutes.

Flights to this part of Patagonia are operated multiple times daily by the country’s three main providers: Jetsmart (very cheap but with fewer flights), Sky Airline (medium priced and with regular flights), and LATAM (highest frequency of departures but expensive).

Often, if you book at least a month in advance, you can get flights for as cheap as $15,000 CLP ($23 USD) one-way.

All three companies also fly directly from Santiago to Aérodromo Balmaceda (BBA), an airport about an hour’s drive south of Coyhaique , although Jetsmart only flies to this part of Patagonia between November and February (for prices as low as $7,000 CLP ($11 USD)). Be aware that the cheaper tickets may include a layover.

With the other two flight companies, there are only departures from Santiago to Aérodromo Balmaceda a few times per week and you can expect to pay anywhere between $22,000 CLP ($35 USD) and $66,000 CLP ($104 USD) one-way. Booking in advance is recommended for getting cheaper flights.

Southern Chilean Patagonia

Southern Chilean Patagonia has one main airport, Aeropuerto Presidente Carlos Ibáñez (PUQ ), a thirty-minute drive from the city of Punta Arenas .

There are normally around four flights daily in summer operated by LATAM, Sky Airline, and Jetsmart, and slightly fewer outside of these peak months, and the flight time to Punta Arenas is just under three hours 30 minutes from Santiago.

Flights can cost as little as $38,000 CLP ($49 USD) and up to $150,000 CLP ($164 USD) one way.

From the airport, it’s possible to pick up a direct bus to Puerto Natales or a transfer service into the city. The latter costs around $7,360 CLP ($8 USD) per person; minivans wait outside the arrivals hall for passengers.

A taxi should charge between $10,000 CLP ($11 USD) and $14,000 CLP ($16 USD).

Aeropuerto Teniente Julio Gallardo (PNT) is a smaller airport, six kilometers north of Puerto Natales.

LATAM have flights here from Santiago between two and four times weekly in the months of November through March; flights are more expensive than to Punta Arenas and start at around $73,000 CLP ($80 USD) one-way.

A taxi into Puerto Natales from the airport should cost around $10,000 CLP ($11 USD).

If you’re hoping to continue your journey into Northern Chilean Patagonia and the Carretera Austral, there are weekly flights (normally on Tuesdays) operated by the small airline Aeriovías DAP between Punta Arenas and Aérodromo Balmaceda (near Coyhaique).

Patagonia flights tip: Try and book Chilean flights directly through the Chilean version of the LATAM website, not the US version. You’ll notice substantial savings if you do this; unfortunately, the Chilean website is only in Spanish.

How to travel to Patagonia, Chile by bus

Northern patagonia.

Buses can often be the cheapest way to get to Patagonia, although flights can be even better for your budget if booked in advance.

To get to Patagonia from Santiago , take a bus from the Terminal Sur in Santiago, where you can find overnight buses to Puerto Montt ($18-27,000 CLP ($20-30 USD) semi-cama , $78,000 CLP ($85 USD) salon cama ; £95,000 CLP ($104 USD) Premium , thirteen hours), from where buses and boats continue south.

Food is not normally included in this service and if you want a better night’s sleep, shell out the couple of extra thousand pesos for a cama seat (a 160˚ recline and with more legroom) or the Premium (the new 180˚ recline) rather than for the semi-cama service (a 140˚ recline).

There are generally working toilets on board, although aim to not reserve a seat right next to one! It’s also wise to take hand sanitizer and spare toilet roll as hygiene can leave a lot to be desired.

You can generally find space on buses the day before or even the day or travel, although be aware that holidays and between January and February see a lot more locals using the buses – and fewer tickets available.

Southern Patagonia

It used to be possible to travel by bus to Southern Chilean Patagonia. Services used to leave Puerto Montt and travel the entire length of Patagonia (normally via the Argentinean side) and arrive in Punta Arenas , 32 hours later. They used to cost about the same amount you’d spend on the same plane journey. I’m not surprised that they’re no longer operating!

Patagonia bus travel tip : Most bus companies in Chile are bringing themselves into the 21st century with bus timetables published online and where you can even book tickets in advance. The main bus companies with the most frequent departures along this route include: Turbus , Pullman Sur, and Cruz del Sur . Websites that collate the bus information and through whom you can also book include Bus Bud , which is also in English, unlike the others.

How to travel to Patagonia, Chile by boat

My personal favorite way of traveling to Patagonia is by passenger and cargo ferry. Similar to arriving by bus, this way of getting to Patagonia is the slow journey – the contemplative way of travel that mimics the arrival of the first indigenous and colonial people to the region.

There are two main companies offering ferry journeys into Patagonia:

The Navimag

The Navimag has one route: departing from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales (four days/three nights; starting at $590 USD for bunk in shared cabin).

I’ve taken this journey and would strongly recommend it.

You can read up on the Navimag ferry to Puerto Natales for more price, itinerary, and general information plus a review of the experience.

The ferry is a cargo ship primarily and has been adapted to carry tourists so don’t expect a five-star, luxury cruise; instead, see it as a truly Patagonian adventure.

The Naviera Austral

The Naviera Austral has a selection of ferry routes that are used predominately by local people traveling around Northern Patagonia.

One leaves from Quellón in the south of Chiloé and travels down to Puerto Cisnes , about halfway down the Carretera Austral. This ferry leaves from Quellón on Tuesdays (6pm), Thursday (6pm) and Saturdays (5pm). You can  buy tickets online  or in their Puerto Montt office (Angelmó 1673). There are no cabins on this ferry, instead you purchase a chair, and you’ll need to bring your own food or make the most of the (limited) on-board cafeteria. It costs $29,000 CLP ($31 USD) for foot passengers and $170,000 CLP ($184 USD) vehicles and takes 12 hours.

Another ferry leaves from Quellón in the south of Chiloé and travels down to Puerto Chacabuco , further south along the Carretera Austral. This one stops at several small ports en-route, making it the ultimate ferry into Patagonia if you want to see the isolated fishing communities that still populate the edges of the fjords.

It’s cheap ($45,000 CLP ($48 USD) foot passengers, $290,000 CLP ($315 USD) per vehicle), long (31 hours), and you get a seat in the boat rather than a bed in a cabin. It leaves from Quellón on Thursdays and Sundays at 1am and again you can  buy tickets online  or in their Puerto Montt office (Angelmó 1673).

Read more about the Naviera Austral (scroll to about half-way down the article). Food is not included and you’ll want a sleeping bag or blanket to keep you warm overnight.

Patagonia boat travel tip : If you’re planning to travel to Patagonia in peak season (December through February), you’ll want to make reservations for these two ferries at least a couple of months in advance , particularly if you’re planning on taking a vehicle (both have space for cars). Bring plenty of warm, waterproof layers for time spent out on the deck watching the scenery and the wildlife pass; whenever you travel, the weather is likely to be changeable and often cold.

Getting to Argentinean Patagonia

Traveling to Argentinean is theoretically easier than getting to a lot of parts of Chilean Patagonia.

Well, on the eastern side of the Andes Mountains, the terrain is mostly pampa (flat grasslands). On the western side, it’s full of dense forests, mountains, glaciers, and fjords.

This means that bus travel from further north in Argentina is straightforward (if mind-numbingly long). Flights are also possible but generally more expensive than on the Chilean side.

Where to fly into Argentinean Patagonia

Unfortunately, flights in Argentina are expensive. However, if you’re on a short timeframe, they’re certainly worth it as they’ll save you from spending hours on the bus that could be used enjoying Patagonia.

From Buenos Aires to Patagonia you have three options of airports:

Aeropuerto Internacional Teniente Luis Candelaria (BRC) receives some five flights daily from the national airport, Aeroparque Jorge Newbury (note this is a different place than the international airport in Buenos Aires).

Your cheapest option is with Fly Bondi , a new low-cost airline in Argentina, who have two daily flights starting from $50USD. JetSmart often have similar prices.

Aerolíneas Argentinas , who are rubbish (they’re known for being delayed and losing luggage), also run this route and are the most regular carrier operating flights from Buenos Aires to Patagonia. LATAM also offers this route. Flight times are normally two hours.

El Calafate

Aeropuerto Internacional de El Calafate Comandante Armando Tola , just outside of El Calafate also has flights from Buenos Aires. The journey takes just short of three hours and costs from $114 USD one-way. LATAM also has flights but for around double the price.

Aeropuerto Internacional Malvinas Argentinas , a 15-minute drive from Ushuaia . Aerolíneas Argentinas and LATAM have five direct flights from Aeroparque Jorge Newbury to Ushuaia. One-way tickets cost from $140 USD.

From all three cities, there are plenty of overland travel routes into other parts of Patagonia (including the Chilean side) and flights.

Patagonia flights tip: Try and book flights directly through the Argentinean version of the LATAM website, not the US version. You’ll notice substantial savings if you do this; unfortunately, the Argentinean website is only in Spanish.

How to get to Argentinean Patagonia by bus

From Buenos Aires to Bariloche and the northern tip of Patagonia, it’s a 22-hour journey that can cost from $38,000 ARS ($108 USD).

From Bariloche, it’s a further 26 hours to 23 hours to El Chaltén ($62,000 ARS ($177 USD), where there are onward connections to El Calafate and Ushuaia.

Cama suites are the top of the range and include a 180˚ recline – like traveling business class. Cama ejectutivo or cama (160˚) and semi-cama (140˚ with little to no legroom) are the other two options and are progressively cheaper – and less comfortable.

When you book, double-check how far your seat reclines as these definitions vary between companies. A blanket and pillow are normally provided for cama suite and cama ejecutivo services.

Food (and even wine!) is normally provided on long bus journeys through Argentina but definitely check this when you book to avoid getting caught out – it can be a long time before you find yourself at a place where you can buy any food!

As with all bus journeys around Patagonia, take toilet paper and hand sanitizer as the bathrooms likely won’t be in the state that you would hope.

You can buy bus tickets in bus terminals in all cities, as well as online at Omnilíneas and Plataforma 10 . It’s worth booking a couple of days in advance for long-distance services.

Patagonia bus travel tip: Check before you buy how long the journey is as this can vary significantly between companies. Longer times indicate more stops along the route – something that can be a pain when you’re trying to sleep. It is worth noting that the Argentinian Peso exchange rate is very changeable so do double check prices closer to the time of your trip.

The best way to see Patagonia

So you’ve traveled to Patagonia; now what?

As we’ve already discussed, Patagonia is one hell of a big region and getting around (and planning how you do it) can feel like another mammoth task.

Let’s break it down into the easiest and best ways to see and get around Patagonia.

Best way to travel around Chilean Patagonia

Bus is the easiest way to get between cities in Southern Chilean Patagonia and also to cross into Argentina.

• Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales: Buses leave hourly between the two cities ($8,000 CLP ($13 USD); 3hrs 15mins) Bus Sur and Buses Fernandez have their own terminals in Punta Arenas and operate out of the Terminal Rodoviario bus station in Puerto Natales.
• Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park: Buses leave at 7.30am and 2.30pm from the Terminal Rodoviario bus station in Puerto Natales and take two hours 15 minutes to reach the first stop in the park ($8,000 CLP ($13 USD)). For more information, read this guide to Torres del Paine and the W hike .
• Puerto Natales to El Calafate: Buses leave at least once daily for El Calafate in Argentina, operated by Bus Sur , COOTRA and Turismo Zaahj . The journey costs $17,000 CLP ($27 USD) and can take anywhere between five and eight hours, depending on the queues at the border.
• Punta Arenas to Ushuaia: Bus Sur have three direct services per week to Ushuaia.

In Northern Chilean Patagonia , buses generally leave every day between towns and cities, although buses traveling longer distances (such as directly between Coyhaique and Futaleufú or Chaitén), often only have once-weekly departures.

That said, it’s normally possible to hop on a bus traveling to the next town (and then onwards) or hitchhike .

The main bus companies in Northern Chilean Patagonia are:

• Kemelbus : daily services between Puerto Montt and Chaitén.
• Buses Cárdenas (tel. 9/4268 0432): daily services between Futaleufú and Chaitén.
• Buses Becker : destinations from Coyhaique north.
• Aguilas Patagonicas (tel. 67/2112 88): daily services from Coyhaique to Cochrane south and from Cochrane to Villa O’Higgins (via Caleta Tortel).

Read on for more information about bus transport along the Carretera Austral or get tips about hitchhiking safely in South America .

Patagonia bus travel tip: Book at least the day before, even for short journeys, between December and February. You may need to even book a few more days in advance between Puerto Natales and El Calafate. Recorrido and Voy Hoy can be useful for finding up-to-date bus timetables.

Some of the activities in Patagonia that I’ve most enjoyed have been the ferry journeys. Aside from the Navimag and Naviera Austral services into Patagonia, there are also a handful of boats that ply the waters around Patagonia.

The Yaghan: Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams

Off all the boat trips I’ve taken in Patagonia, I can honestly say that the TABSA-operated Yaghan ferry from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams was my absolute favourite.

This 32-hour journey is aboard a converted cargo ferry that sets sail twice weekly from the Terminal de Ferry Tres Puentes in Punta Arenas, navigating south through the Strait of Magellan, into the labyrinthine, green-drenched Chilean fjords before joining the Beagle Channel and docking finally at Puerto Williams.

I boarded the ferry at the end of March and we had the most spectacular weather: blue skies and the calmest, crystalline waters that you can imagine.

Every few minutes we spotted more wildlife: Magellanic penguins floating atop the water; South American fur seals and sea lions shrugging their fins at us as they dipped in and out of the water; albatrosses cresting the boat; and finishing with a family of humpback waves leaping out of the water as we entered the Beagle Channel.

What’s more, the journey along the Beagle Channel is made even more spectacular by the fact that you pass mid-afternoon through Glacier Alley, a row of tidewater glaciers plunging down the edges of the Darwin Mountains and into the water.

Accommodation is more like a bus than a traditional boat. Foreigners booking in advance (something essential between December and March; aim for at least two months) pay $151,100 CLP ($237 USD) for a cama seat (180˚ recline with a separator between you and the person behind and in front).

Locals and those who snag a spot in the 24 hours before departure (obviously only if there is space left) pay $108,100 CLP ($170 USD) for a semi-cama (160˚ recline and a lot less space).

There are charging sockets on board, hot showers and three, three-course meals per day served in a poky downstairs dining area. They seemed able to cater to most dietary requirements as you’re required to indicate this when you book.

Be aware that while the return journey departing from Puerto Williams still promises stunning scenery, the boat passes through Glacier Alley late evening/in darkness. The journey from Punta Arenas south guarantees the best views.

Schedules change monthly and you need to book and pay online on the TABSA website . We left around 6pm in the evening from Punta Arenas and that meant that we were in front of Glacier Alley early afternoon, so bear that in mind when you book your ferry (later times may mean you pass the glaciers during the night).

The Cruz Australis: Puerto Natales to Caleta Tortel

Similar to the Yaghan, the Cruz Australis is a cargo boat that now carries passengers the 42-hour journey between Puerto Natales to Caleta Tortel, a town close to the southern tip of the Carretera Austral and terminating in Puerto Yungay, 43 kilometers east.

This vessel has faced few adaptations for tourists and is less comfortable: for example, the ratio of passengers to showers and toilets is somewhat lower and the food quality and quantity leaves a lot to be desired.

All seats are semi-cama (160˚ recline) and unfortunately, foreigners get to pay $125,160 CLP ($197 USD) per person, five times the cost for Chileans. Blankets are provided but it can get cold, so bring extra layers.

However, this trip feels similarly wild and provides an easy connection between Southern Chilean Patagonia and the Carretera Austral, particularly for those with a vehicle (at an additional cost) or who don’t fancy hiking with all their belongings between El Chaltén and Villa O’Higgins.

You also get to stop at Puerto Eden, a magnificent fjord-side settlement home to around 170 people, including the final members of the indigenous Kawésqar group.

The boat leaves weekly from Puerto Natales at 5am, although all passengers and those with vehicles are required to board the previous night. Three meals per day are included, although extra snacks are recommended as portion size and quality is not the best.

You can book and pay for this online directly through the TABSA website .

Patagonia boat travel tip: For both journeys, an eye mask and ear plugs to escape the pesky light and noise of the television screens, and a towel to make use of the hot showers in a small day pack is recommended; you’re required to leave luggage in a locked room off the main deck upon entry. You’ll get them back when you dock. You’ll also want warm, windproof, and waterproof clothes for time spent on dock watching the scenery go past.

Speedboats between Puerto Williams and Ushuaia

This journey isn’t exactly a ferry journey but is worth mentioning as it’s a useful way of getting between Chilean and Argentinean Patagonia.

Speedboats connect Puerto Williams (the southernmost Chilean settlement in Patagonia), with Ushuaia (the southernmost Argentinean settlement in Patagonia) by crossing the Beagle Channel, with a journey time of around 40 minutes and quite a high chance of spotting whales – we saw a group of humpback whales very close to our boat.

March 2023 update: No speedboats are currently operating between Puerto Williams and Ushuaia. I expect these to restart for the 2023/2024 season, however, I cannot currently confirm this.

The scenery is spectacular on a clear day because of the sharp, sky-spearing mountains that line both the Chilean and Argentinean sides of the channel.

Unfortunately, the journey is exceptionally expensive: $120 USD one-way, $220 USD return. It’s also really badly organized, particularly if you’re traveling from Puerto Williams to Ushuaia, not the other way around.

Boats leave daily Tuesday through Sunday, normally departing around 9am from the ports in Ushuaia or from the Gobernación building in Puerto Williams; boarding crossing formalities are conducted in both and you’ll be guided through the process by the boat staff.

Ferry tickets can be bought in Puerto Williams at Shila, a shop opposite the Gobernación building, or in Ushuaia from Seaboat , an agency located on the Muelle Turístic.

Ferries to Cape Horn

Finally, another popular boat trip in Patagonia is the journey to Cape Horn on Isla Hornos.

This island is mistakenly considered the southernmost point of South America, which is actually the Diego Ramírez Islands 104 kilometers south.

Either way, this trip has long appealed to adventurous tourists as the act of “Round the Horn” was considered the utmost test for sailors over the centuries when Cape Horn offered the fastest route around South America before the construction of the Panama Canal.

This barren, isolated island is inhabited by a member of the Chilean Navy and his family (although only for periods of up to a year) and you can visit with boats from Ushuaia or Punta Arenas, with the chance – if the weather conditions are optimum – to land on the island and visit the lighthouse.

There’s also the Cape Horn Monument, which was erected to honor all the sailors who died across the centuries by drowning in the fierce waves that lash the coastline.

Australis is the best-known company offering Patagonia cruise tours, with a focus on adventure over luxury – although their boats are notably more comfortable than the ferry journeys mentioned above.

However, they don’t come cheap and you can expect to pay $4,586 USD for two people sharing a twin room on a three-night, four-day cruise, including Glacier Alley, the penguin colony on Isla Magdalena, and Cape Horn.

If you’re more interested in a “local” experience (and still incredible views of Glacier Alley), I would strongly recommend the TABSA boat trip from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams at a significantly more affordable price.

If you’ve got a shorter trip or don’t fancy spending a few days on a boat or bus, you can also take internal flights around Patagonia.

Connecting Southern Patagonia with the Carretera Austral, there are weekly flights (normally on Tuesdays) operated by Aeriovías DAP  between Punta Arenas and Aérodromo Balmaceda.

This company also flies two times weekly (normally Wednesday and Saturday, only November through March) between Punta Arenas and Ushuaia and has daily flights (Monday-Saturday) between Punta Arenas and Puerto Williams.

Car rental in Patagonia

Renting a car or a campervan can be a useful way of getting around Patagonia at your own pace and having the chance to explore parts that few tourists see.

Car rental is generally cheaper in Chile than in Argentina and there are plenty of global companies here that add to the competition – and keep prices down.

One of the biggest issues I have faced with car rental in Patagonia and Chile, in general, is insurance. In this country, third-party, rather than fully-comprehensive, is the norm.

Some local rental companies won’t even allow you to add extra insurance on top of their basic policy – meaning that you’ll be required to pay anywhere from $700,000 CLP ($1,100 USD) to $950,000 CLP ($1,500 USD) as a security deposit (excess) when you book the car – and you won’t see any of that money again in the event of an accident.

This is perhaps more normal in the USA, but a shift from what you can expect if you’re used to renting in the UK or Europe.

I’ve previously used car hire excess insurance (sometimes known as excess damage waiver insurance) that protects you from having to use the security deposit to pay the excess if the car is damaged in any way.

This can cost as little as $50 USD a year (or less for one trip) and should prevent you from stumping up whatever excess is written into the insurance policy.

I’ve rented cars across Chile and I personally recommend using RentalCars.com  as I’ve found them to be the most reliable and consistently offer the cheapest rental, with prices often starting at around $12,000 CLP ($19 USD) per day.

RentalCars.com link you up to budget car rental companies across Chile and also allow you to add on fully-comprehensive insurance when you book

I’ve rented a car in Patagonia through Europcar and Budget as well, however, I’ve always ended up paying an elevated price as I’ve struggled to rent vehicles through their Chilean websites as you often need a RUT (a Chilean identity document) to book – through their international website, prices are often significantly higher.

As a result, I tend to now go through RentalCars.com as it’s a) in English so you can be 100% what insurance you’re getting and b) in the event of an accident and where you need to claim money back from insurance, you can speak to someone in English – rather than Spanish.

For more tips and tricks, head to my guide to car rental in Patagonia .

Campervan and motorhome rental in Patagonia

If you’re planning a trip for one month or longer in Patagonia, renting a campervan can be a good way of saving money on accommodation and transport costs and will also grant you a lot more flexibility.

In Chile, the main campervan rental companies include:

• Soul Vans : rent vans from Santiago and Punta Arenas
• Wicked : rent vans from Santiago, Punta Arenas, and Puerto Varas in Patagonia
• Condor Campers : pick-up from Santiago, plus Punta Arenas and Puerto Varas (the latter of which you’ll be charged $380,000 CLP ($597 USD) to do so).

For motorhomes and larger camper vans , check out:

• Holiday Rent : pick-up and drop-off in Santiago or Punta Arenas.
• Andes Campers : pick-up only from Santiago or from other cities for a fee and with a limit of 250 kilometers daily.

Patagonia car and campervan rental tip: One-way fees (where the pick-up and drop-off are in different places) can be crippling, particularly if you plan on hiring a vehicle in Punta Arenas and dropping it off in Puerto Montt, for example.

If you’re traveling out of peak season, it’s worth checking out one-way deals offered by campervan rental companies.

These normally come about when they need to shift vehicles at the start or end of the season from one side of the country, and they will give you a significantly discounted price if you drive it for them.

The only problem is you’ll need to fit around their dates – but they won’t charge you a one-way fee. Check out Soul Vans , who sometimes offer one-way deals.

Rental car and van insurance in Patagonia

Theoretically, you need an international driving license to rent a car in Chile, however, I have never been asked to show this in two years of hiring vehicles here.

In addition to the obligatory car insurance for your vehicle, if you plan to cross the border into Argentina you will need a notarized document from the car rental company to legally allow you to cross:

• This costs from $70,000 CLP ($110 USD) to $130,000 CLP ($200 USD) and normally needs to be arranged between seven and ten days in advance of picking up the hire car. This should include third-party insurance in Argentina but double-check exactly what your insurance is going to be when you cross the border.
• An extra security bond may also be required by the rental company.

Things to be aware of when hiring a car in Chilean Patagonia :

• You may not be covered to drive on some roads in Patagonia if you rent a small, 2×4 vehicle. I was told when I was renting in Coyhaique that I could take a Chevrolet Spark, but it wouldn’t be insured for driving on the Carretera Austral! Therefore, you may be required to upgrade (at a significant cost) to a 4×4 if you want to drive outside of cities in Patagonia and on gravel or unpaved roads.
• Few companies offer tow-truck assistance if you break down in Patagonia . When it happened to me in Tierra del Fuego, we ended up waiting by the side of the road for about seven hours until they managed to get a new rental car out to us.
• Always carry plenty of food and drink and warm clothes in case of breakdowns. A Chilean and Argentinean sim (or one that works abroad) in case of emergency is also essential. I recommend Entel in Chile and Claro in Argentina.
• In COPEC gas stations (the most common type in Chile), you can normally find the “Rutas de Chile” COPEC map, which all of the COPEC gas stations in Patagonia marked . It’s worth investing in this as it’s good for map reading but also knowing where you can next buy gas.
• Driving along the Carretera Austral is hazardous not only because of the poor state of the roads (we’re talking building-sized potholes) but also the lack of care shown by other drivers on the road. Take it slow to avoid crashing around tight bends and dislodging pesky pieces of gravel that can do serious damage to windscreens.
• Always have your drivers licence, insurance papers, and passport on you in case you get stopped by the police. Chilean cops are not corrupt, so don’t ever attempt to bribe them. Just be polite and follow what they ask you to do.
• Knowledge of some Spanish will make your life easier when hiring a rental car.

Rental car and van insurance travel tip : If you plan to take a Patagonia road trip away from the main cities and into mostly uninhabited territories, such as Tierra del Fuego or into isolated parts of the Carretera Austral, it’s always essential to fill up your vehicle before leaving as fuel can be hard to find in some parts.

An additional fuel container (plastic is the only type allowed) is also worthwhile and you can often request these from your car rental company before you depart.

Best way to travel around Argentinean Patagonia

The Argentinean pampa is a lot easier to navigate than the Chilean side of Patagonia and bus transport is more regular and often more comfortable, making this probably the best way to travel around Argentinean Patagonia.

El Chaltén to El Calafate: From the Terminal de Ómnibuses in El Chaltén, Cal-Tur , and Chaltén Travel have five daily departures to El Calafate (three hours, $600 ARS ($22 USD)).

El Calafate to Ushuaia: TAQSA has daily buses between El Calafate and Ushuaia (16 hours, $2,000 ARS ($75 USD)).

You can buy bus tickets in bus terminals or bus company offices in all cities, as well as online at Omnilíneas and Plataforma 10 . It’s worth booking a couple of days in advance for long-distance services.

Domestic flights in Argentina are expensive, however, they can be useful when you’re on a short trip to Patagonia.

From Bariloche, Aeropuerto Internacional Teniente Luis Candelaria (BRC), Aerolíneas Argentinas have one flight per day ($103 USD; one hour 45 minutes) to El Calafate and one daily to Ushuaia ($104 USD; five hours 50 minutes).

From Aeropuerto Internacional de El Calafate Comandante Armando Tola , just outside of El Calafate, there are normally two flights daily to Ushuaia. The journey takes one hour twenty minutes and costs from $94 USD one-way.

As mentioned above, Aeriovías DAP   has twice-weekly (normally Wednesdays and Saturdays, only November through March) between Punta Arenas and Ushuaia.

Car rental in Argentinean Patagonia

All admit that I’ve never rented a car in Argentinean Patagonia. Want to know why?

Well, several reasons:

• It’s expensive, particularly when compared with Chilean car rental prices.
• Distances in Argentinean Patagonia are vast and actually, once you get out of the main tourist hubs (Ushuaia, El Calafate, El Chaltén), there’s not an awful lot to see that you can’t reach by bus. Puerto Madryn is the real exception to this – although you can get there by bus, it’s just a lot of hassle.

The only place I would suggest it makes sense to rent a car in Argentina is in Ushuaia as it makes it significantly easier (and cheaper) to visit Tierra del Fuego National Park, as you’ll save cash on the $20 USD per person bus fare into the park from Ushuaia, and you can tack on a day trip to Estancia Harberton and Laguna Esmeralda too.

However, if you do want to hire a car when you’re in Patagonia, I again recommend going through RentalCars.com where you can get a vehicle from $55 USD per day.

Things to look out for when hiring a rental car in Argentinean Patagonia :

• Be sure to read your insurance policy carefully to see whether you have third-party or fully comprehensive insurance included – again, another bonus of going with an international company such as this as all of the documents are in English.
• You may not be covered to drive on gravel or unpaved roads so confirm this when booking.
• If crossing the border into Chile, you will need additional insurance from the rental company . See above for further information.
• Check if you have a limit on how many kilometers you can drive per day . This is often capped at 200 kilometers (after which you’ll be charged extra per kilometer).
• You may be able to negotiate a lower rental price when you arrive to pick up the car.
• It’s worth photographing pre-existing damage to the rental vehicle to avoid arguments when you return it.
• Always have your driving license, insurance papers, and passport on you in case you get stopped by the police.

If you want to rent a camper van in Patagonia, I’d recommend going with a Chilean company.

Patagonia by train

Although train travel is perhaps the most romantic way of getting around Patagonia, travelers will be disappointed to hear that few of the lines that were once used to carry freight remain in operation.

The most famous is the steam-powered La Trochita, aka the 1922 Old Patagonian Express that found fame in Paul Theroux’s eponymous travelogue.

Nowadays, it only travels the short 20 kilometers to Nahua Pan, the first station on the train’s old route and back again. It costs $900 ARS ($33 USD) for the return ticket.

In summer, it leaves every Saturday, while in winter, it’s generally once a month. You can find out more information on the official website .

Patagonia road trip itinerary

Many travelers opt to hire a rental car or even buy a vehicle as a way of exploring Patagonia and having the flexibility to visit beyond-the-beaten-trail destinations.

If you’re hoping to plan a Patagonian road trip, I would recommend setting aside at least one month – but preferably more.

This will allow you to see the region’s most unmissable destinations without feeling like you’re on a strict time limit.

Unless traveling with a motorhome or campervan, you’ll want to pack decent camping equipment.

This includes a tent that can survive both the fierce Patagonian winds and the unrelenting rains (find out why I love the Big Agnes Copper Spur ) and a good cooking kit that can withstand both of these weather conditions too.

A spare petrol can, sat nav or map (I use the free maps.me as it has always worked very successfully for hiking and driving in Patagonia) and knowing how to change a tire are other essentials for a road trip through Patagonia.

In terms of itineraries, it depends where you plan to visit in Patagonia and how long you have to hand. I strongly recommend the following:

• The Carretera Austral: Chilean Patagonia’s ultimate road trip is from north to south along the region’s most isolated road. Construction started during the dictatorship and is still underway as this serpentine road is finally being fully paved – although there’s a long way to go. Highlights include Patagonia and Pumalín, two brand-new national parks that were brought into being by Conservación Patagonica (the late Doug Tompkins’ foundation); Caleta Tortel, a village connected entirely by wooden boardwalks; and the glaciers of the Southern Patagonia and Northern Patagonia Ice Fields. Read on for my complete travel guide to the Carretera Austral .
• Ruta 40 : Argentinean Patagonia’s most famous road is Ruta 40, a highway that actually transverses the entire country from north to south. The Patagonian stretch starts in Bariloche, slicing through the pampas as it bypasses El Bolsón, Esquel, Perito Moreno, El Chaltén, and El Calafate, before ending in Río Gallegos. It’s not for the faint of heart, with blustery winds and poorly-maintained roads making it one where you can’t drop your concentration for a minute, but it does promises exceptional views of the Andes Mountains and takes you along the region’s most interesting tourist hotspots. For tips on driving it, take a look at this article and this blog post .
• Tierra del Fuego: Another Patagonia road trip that you can take, although few people do, is into Tierra del Fuego. Plenty of travelers drive along the eastern half through Argentinean Patagonia and Ushuaia; however, the scenery on the western side, as a lone, unpaved road heads south from the ferry crossing at Punta Delgada, is sensational. Comprising angular mountain peaks (the final stretches of the Andes) interspersed with crystalline lakes and lenga beech forests filled with guanaco and foxes, this is the place to go if you’re looking for wild, untouched Patagonia. There’s little written about this on the internet yet, so you’ll have to stay tuned for when I write a post about it or you download my one-month backpacking itinerary , which already contains some key information.

Crossing the border between Argentina and Chile

Most trips to Patagonia involve quite a lot of border crossings, as you’ll likely want to move from Puerto Natales over to El Calafate, or from Argentina onto the Carretera Austral.

It’s not unusual to sometimes even cross the border multiple times in one day!

This is all perfectly legal, although you must ensure that you’ve got the necessary visa or pay a reciprocal fee where required (see these lists for Chile and for Argentina ).

Upon entry into either country, you are issued a 90-day stamp, which is renewed every time you cross in and out.

As I’ve indicated above, crossing between Argentina and Chile is relatively straightforward, however, in some cases, it is something that needs to be pre-planned.

Crossing the border with public transport

Crossing the Patagonian border can be a quick, stress-free process (somewhere between 30 and 45 minutes) or a frustratingly long one (various hours). In summer, queues at popular borders, such as Paso Río Don Guillermo (near Puerto Natales) and Paso Integración Austral (near Río Gallegos), can be very long.

If you’re on a public bus, you’ll be guided through the process by the bus driver, who’ll drop you off on one side of the border, wait for formalities to finish, and then allow you to re-board the bus, before taking you across the border and repeating this process.

The time spent at the border can also be increased by the fact that all luggage entering Chile is checked firstly by sniffer dogs and then put through an x-ray machine.

This is because you are not allowed to bring fruit, vegetables, or animal products with you across the border. The customs authorities are very strict about this and you can face a fine if you do attempt to bring any of these items and don’t declare them.

Whenever entering Chile, it is much better to declare everything and face having it taken off you, than run the risk of a large fine.

Theoretically, the Argentinean border control should check the same, however, I’ve never seen this happen, so you are generally fine to take food items if crossing in that direction.

Crossing the border with a rental car

To be legally able to cross the border in a rental car, you will need:

• A notarized document from the car rental company to legally allow you to cross.
• In Chile, this costs from $70,000 CLP ($110 USD) to $130,000 CLP ($200 USD).
• It needs to be arranged between seven and ten days in advance of picking up the hire car.
• Your car hire and this document should, theoretically, cover third-party insurance in Argentina but double-check exactly what is included in your insurance when you confirm the car rental.

There’s a great overview of the different stages of the border crossing here ; it’s from 2012 but the main information is still valid.

Patagonia border crossing tip: Aim to arrive at borders as early in the day as possible (although they normally don’t open until 8am: you can check opening hours on the official border website here . The Aisén and Magallanes Regions are the ones you want for Patagonia border crossings). Public buses begin to arrive from mid-morning onwards and that’s when the queues start.

Patagonia trip itineraries

If you’re looking for suggested travel routes through Patagonia, this is a subject that I’ve written extensively about.

One week in Patagonia travel itinerary

Although one week certainly isn’t enough to get the best out of Patagonia, you can just about fly from Santiago to Patagonia and squeeze in the W hike in Torres del Paine National Park.

Alternatively, starting in Buenos Aires, you can fly to El Calafate to admire the Perito Moreno Glacier, and spend a couple of days hiking in Los Glaciares National Park near El Chaltén.

For full details, read my one-week Patagonia travel itineraries article .

Patagonia in two weeks

Two weeks is definitely a better amount of time to dedicate to a trip around Patagonia. With two weeks, you can sail by ferry down through the Chilean fjords, before visiting highlights of the Carretera Austral (including the Marble Caves, Parque Patagonia, and the Queulat Hanging Glacier).

For hiking aficionados, you can spend just shy of two weeks hiking the O Circuit in Torres del Paine National Park, a challenging but worthy trek through untamed scenery.

For full details, read my two-week Patagonia travel itineraries article .

Three-week Patagonia backpacking trip

With three weeks in Patagonia, you can hike the region’s best treks, including the O Circuit in Torres del Paine, various routes through Los Glaciares National Park near El Chaltén, and those in Tierra del Fuego National Park near Ushuaia.

Alternatively, you can day-trip into Torres del Paine, see the Perito Moreno Glacier, hang out in El Chaltén before hiking across the border to Villa O’Higgins in Chile, where you head north along the Carretera Austral, stopping at the Marble Caves, the Queulat Hanging Glacier, and Parque Pumalín en-route.

For full details, read my three-week Patagonia travel itineraries article .

One-month backpacking in Patagonia itinerary

Now we’re talking! With an entire month, you can just about see all of Southern Patagonia, both the Chilean and Argentinean sides.

You’ll arrive by ferry to Puerto Natales, hike the O Circuit, visit the Perito Moreno Glacier, hike in Los Glaciares National Park, head through Tierra del Fuego via a king penguin colony and explore the southernmost reaches of Chile before visiting Ushuaia and ending your trip with a visit to the volcanic landscapes of Pali Aike National Park.

For full details, download my one-month in Patagonia travel itinerary .

What to pack for Patagonia

Your packing list for Patagonia will depend a lot on what activities you plan to do on your trip.

• Your passport, with at least six months’ validity
• Your driving license (if you plan on hiring a car)
• Moon Chile and Lonely Planet Argentina
• In Patagonia

Day-to-day equipment

• Microfibre travel towel ; Check them out on REI | Amazon
• Flip flops or light-weight sandals;  I’m a convert of Teva sandals ; they are lightweight and so comfortable. Check them out on REI | Backcountry | Amazon
• Hat, scarf, and gloves; I love the Buff headband that doubles up as a scarf too, check it on  REI | Amazon
• Compression sacks for keeping everything ordered in your bag ; Check them out on REI | Backcountry | Amazon
• Universal adapter plug (Type C (Chile) and Type C and I (Argentina)); Check them out on Amazon
• Battery pack for charging your phone on the move ; Check them out on Amazon and REI
• Sturdy padlock for use with lockers in dorm bedrooms ; Check them out on  Amazon
• Steripen for use in Argentina or on the trail; Check it out on REI | Amazon or read my honest review of the Steripen Adventurer
• Extra batteries (they’re very specific for the Steripen Adventurer, but aren’t required for the rechargeable Steripen UV Ultra); Get them on  Amazon
• Nalgene reusable water bottle ; Check them out on  REI | Backcountry | Amazon
• Medical kit for emergencies ; Check them out on  Amazon or  REI  or you can easily put one together yourself

Hiking equipment

• Sturdy hiking boots ; I have a pair of  Salomon hiking boots . Check them out on REI | Backcountry | Amazon or the men’s version on REI | Backcountry | Amazon
• “Inner” and “outer” socks to stop your boots from rubbing; merino wool socks are good as the thicker pair and they help to wick away moisture quickly from your feet: get outer socks on REI | Darn Tough | Amazon and liner socks on REI | Darn Tough | Amazon
• Trekking poles ; These can be invaluable as they can help take some of the pressure off your hips and feet when you’re walking. Check them out from Black Diamond on REI | Backcountry | Amazon .
• A lightweight but waterproof and windproof jacket; I love the Patagonia Storm10 Jacket as it’s an ultralight, easy-to-pack but fully waterproof jacket ( Patagonia ); the North Face Alta Vista Jacket ( Amazon | REI ) is significantly cheaper but offers good weather protection. For him: check out the men’s version of the Patagonia Storm10 Jacket on REI | Backcountry | Patagonia ; if you want something more affordable, the North Face Alta Vista ( Amazon| REI ) is a good shout. I’ve also heard great things about Arc’teryx ( REI | Amazon ) too
• Windproof and quick-drying pants if you plan on hiking in Patagonia ; prAna has a great range available on  REI | Backcountry | Amazon ; for men, check out Columbia’s Silver Ridge pants on  REI | Backcountry | Amazon
• A warm fleece jacket or down jacket ; Check fleece jackets out for women: Amazon  or REI ; for men: on  Amazon or REI . I also love my new Jack Wolfskin down jacket ( Amazon ), as it’s extremely warm and lightweight
• A day pack for day hiking ; I use the Lowe Alpine 22l day pack but for readers not from the UK, Osprey has excellent packs (for women REI | Amazon and for men REI | Osprey | Amazon )
• A 60-liter rucksack if you plan on hiking the O Circuit or other multi-day hikes ; I love Berghaus , but if you’re not in the UK, Osprey is again a far better option. You can check out Osprey rucksacks for women on  REI | Osprey | Amazon and for men on  REI | Osprey | Amazon
• Dry bags for keeping your electronics dry when it rains ; Check out Sea to Summit dry bags on REI | Backcountry | Amazon
• Hiking maps ; check out Trekking Chile : they have the best selection of hiking maps – something very difficult to find in Chile.

Camping equipment

• Headlamp ; Check them out on  REI | Black Diamond | Backcountry |
• A lightweight tent ; I recommend the Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL2 ( REI | Backcountry | Amazon ). You can read my review of the Big Agnes Copper Spur  too. The North Face Stormbreak 2 ( REI | Backcountry | Amazon )and roomier Stormbreak 3 ( REI ) are cheaper alternatives.
• Sleeping bag ; I recommend the Rab Ascent 700 Women’s (UK or Canada only) but if you’re in the US, for women, I suggest the Marmot Trestles Elite 30 (find it on REI | Backcountry | Amazon ); for men, the cheaper Marmot Ultra Elite 30 ( REI | Backcountry ) and the expensive Sierra Designs Cloud 800 ( Backcountry | Amazon ) both have rave reviews.
• Sleeping pad ; I really love the Alpkit Cloud Base sleeping mat but it’s not made it to the US yet. Instead, Therm-a-rest have a good line of affordable pads ( REI | Backcountry | Amazon ) or their Prolite is a more expensive and more comfortable option ( REI | Backcountry | Amazon )
• Lightweight and easy to clean cooking equipment; I recommend the MSR pots : check them out on Backcountry | Amazon
• A cooking stove that can survive windy weather ; I recommend the affordable and lightweight MSR PocketRocket ( REI | Backcountry | Amazon )
• Collapsible Bowl;  Check it out on REI | Backcountry | Amazon
• Camping Mug;  Check them out on REI | Backcountry | Amazon
• Spork;  Check it out on REI | Backcountry | Amazon

Road trip equipment

• In car converter plug ; check them out on  Amazon
• Copec “Rutas de Chile” map ; you can pick this up in most COPEC gas stations.

Get a full download of this list, with extra information about my reasoning behind my recommendations over at the complete Patagonia packing list .

How much does a Patagonia trip cost?

One of the biggest concerns for travellers to Patagonia is the cost of the overall trip. Patagonia is a notoriously expensive destination to visit, particularly when compared to other parts of South America.

As a rule of thumb, it is possible to backpack Patagonia on a budget of around $50 USD per day .

Staying in budget, dorm accommodation, self-catering and taking public transport, per day you can expect to pay:

Two people, staying in budget, double accommodation, mostly self-catering and taking public transport can expect to pay:

However, don’t forget to budget in bus or boat transport or flying to Patagonia. Longer bus trips will cost more and you’ll need to budget for any tours that you take, which generally can be quite expensive. National park entrance fees vary, too.

If you plan on hiking in Torres del Paine, the cheapest you can expect to spend is $157,000 CLP ($190 USD): find out how to hike the W Trek without a tour and on a budget .

I’ve written a detailed article about traveling to Patagonia on a budget but these eight tips cover the main jist:

• Use cheaper, budget airlines such as Jetsmart, Sky Airline, and Fly Bondi for cheap flights into and around Patagonia
• Use the free Hopper app to find the best window of time for buying flights
• Hitchhike, cycle, hire a car between a group of you, or buy your own vehicle for the cheapest transportation in Patagonia
• Bring a tent and camp in local campgrounds or choose from budget hostales and residencials (basically local people who rent out rooms) or fully-equipped cabañas if you’re traveling in a group to bring accommodation costs down.
• Self-cater and buy food in big cities in Patagonia to make traveling to Patagonia cheaper – just don’t try and cross into Chile with anything fresh!
• Bring US dollars and make the most of a favorable exchange rate and discounts for paying in this currency
• Use Western Union for withdrawing money in Argentina. This allows you to get the best exchange rate (known as the “blue dollar”) and avoid Argentina’s rampant inflation. Full details here .
• Book in advance accommodation and destinations such as Torres del Paine National Park if traveling in high season
• Avoid unnecessary tours – just pack good quality equipment for your trip (see my recommended gear list for your Patagonia trip with a free checklist download)

For the full, in-depth guide, head over to my article about visiting Patagonia on a budget.

What to do and where to go in Patagonia

It’s probably become clear by this point that there’s a whole lot of stuff to see and do in Patagonia. I’ve spent months there and there remains a shit load that’s still on my list.

But I can condense what I think are the best, most unmissable things to do in Patagonia and so I’ve distilled my favorite destinations, organized by activity. You can also check out my guide to the best places to visit in Patagonia for further inspiration!

Where to go hiking in Patagonia

Torres del paine national park, chile.

Chilean Patagonia’s most famous park, it would be strange not to open this list with Torres del Paine National Park.

Although it’s possible to take a day trip into the park (either with a tour starting from $40,000 CLP ($63 USD) or by renting a car, both from Puerto Natales), hiking the five-day W or ten-day O Circuit is really the only way to appreciate the vast beauty of this dramatic national park.

I’ve hiked both, and for me, the O wins easily. With the popularity of the national park increasing exponentially each year (around 250,000 people now arrive annually), the W is frustratingly crowded and this definitely took away a lot of my enjoyment of the hike.

Instead, the O Circuit has a limit of 70 hikers daily and while it’s challenging to carry food for ten or eleven days plus your camping equipment, the actual hike is accessible to even those with little experience.

You can also visit for a couple of days and enjoy day hikes in the park – which is great if you’ve not got much time or have missed out on making campground/refugio reservations for the W.

For further information, check out:

• Everything you need to know about the O Circuit
• Learn about how you can hike the W without a costly tour
• Find out what food to pack for both treks
• Read about the 15 best day hikes that you can do in Torres del Paine
• I’ve also written a lengthy, info-packed post about how to book campsites and refugios in Torres del Paine
• As well as what to do if there’s no space at the campsites for the dates you want .

Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina

Although it’s certainly lesser-known that its rival park across the border, Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina is a seriously beautiful place to go hiking in Argentina.

Part of the appeal – and what separates it from the increasingly more complicated-to-visit Torres del Paine – is the fact that this protected area has seventeen hiking trails. Many of these connect up and allow you to spend multiple days trekking through the park and camping at basic grounds, without having to return to nearby El Chaltén.

Alongside the challenging Laguna de los Tres, the most famous trek in the park, there’s also the increasingly popular Huemul Circuit, a 70-kilometer, four-day trekking that starts and ends in El Chaltén and affords spectacular views across the Southern Patagonia Ice Field.

The most detailed post I’ve found for those hoping to do this trek (I’ve not yet done it) is here .

This article from Lonely Planet is a more descriptive overview of what is quickly becoming one of the most sought-after Patagonian treks.

Tierra del Fuego National Park, Argentina

Another top hiking destination in Patagonia is Tierra del Fuego National Park . It’s only 12 kilometers west of Ushuaia at the very tip of Argentina, making it easily accessible for a day trip, although there are also a couple of campgrounds in the park if you choose to stay.

Hiking trails are less plentiful than in Los Glaciares National Park but the views from the Cerro Guanaco trail make it more than worth the visit.

It’s an eight-kilometer round-trip, but a grueling eight-hour hike in total because you ascend 973 meters in only four kilometers to reach a peak.

From here, expect panoramic views of the Beagle Channel below and views across to Puerto Williams, in Chilean Patagonia, when the weather is clear.

You’ll need to download a decent map (I always recommend the free maps.me where you can download maps for offline use) as the path sometimes disappears into a peat bog – and you’ll want decent hiking boots too!

The park is also a great spot for seeing the Southern Lights in Patagonia on a cloudless night.

Buses leave hourly from the terminal in Ushuaia, although, at $20 USD per round-trip ticket, if you’re in a group, it’ll wind up being cheaper (and faster) to rent a car in Ushuaia .

Pumalín National Park, Chile

A newly inaugurated national park, Pumalín was founded by billionaire philanthropist, the late Doug Tompkins (the former CEO of the North Face brand) and is possibly one of the best parks in Patagonia and proves that there’s more to hiking in Chilean Patagonia than just Torres del Paine.

Loads of investment has gone into the park’s infrastructure, with around seven hiking trails ranging from short, easy wanders to day hikes. My personal favorite was the climb up to the crater of the imposing Chaitén Volcano.

It actually erupted back in 2008, burying the nearby town of Chaitén under lahars of ash and mud and forcing thousands to evacuate from their homes. The views down into the crater and, when the sun is shining, out towards the ocean, are spectacular from the top.

There are plenty of campgrounds in the national park charging $6,000 CLP ($9.5 USD) per person. Be aware that there is no public transport from Chaitén, so you either need to hitchhike, bring a car down from Puerto Montt or take a tour.

You can find more information about this on the park’s English-language website .

I highly recommend Chaitén Excursions run by the wonderfully knowledgeable US-expat Nicolás, who runs flexible tours that start from as cheap as $10,000 CLP ($16 USD) per person. He’s based in Chaitén.

Cerro Castillo National Park, Chile

Further south along the Carretera Austral, Cerro Castillo is another newly-inaugurated national park that converted from national reserve status back in October 2017.

The area is best known for the spectacular Laguna Cerro Castillo which is dominated by the sharp, torrent-like spires of Cerro Castillo itself (“Castillo” means castle).

It’s a climbing, one-day hike up to the lagoon, although there’s a growing number of tourists choosing to opt for the 47-kilometer, four-day Cerro Castillo Traverse.

This starts in the east and cuts right through the park west, passing a series of viewpoints for glaciers and lakes, as well as the all-important Cerro Castillo itself.

The most complete guide to this four-day trek can be found via Adventure Alan and it’s a challenging hike but one you can do without a guide.

Patagonia National Park and Lago Jeinimeni National Reserve, Chile

I’m still debating over which is my favorite national park in Patagonia for hiking, but Patagonia National Park is definitely in the running.

Another Doug Tompkins-founded protected area, Patagonia has breathtaking scenery, covering everything from mountain-top lagoons to dusty, sun-scorched grasslands and even mountain traverses through river gorges.

I only had the chance to hike the spectacular Lagunas Altas Trail. It’s a challenging 23-kilometer day-hike that ascends the south side of the valley in which much of the park is located, climbing into lenga forests past beautiful azure lagoons, before looping back down to the campground where you start.

There’s also the three- to four-day, 52-kilometer trek, known as the Traversía Jeinimeni-Avilés or Sendero Valle Hermoso-Valle Chacabuco, that crosses from Patagonia National Park into the Jeinimeni National Reserve.

For more information, the park’s website is especially detailed and even in English.

Where to go for spectacular landscapes and natural landforms

Perito moreno glacier, argentina.

Patagonia’s most famous glacier, Perito Moreno is an astonishingly large glacier just a few hours’ drive from El Calafate in Argentina.

Although it’s certainly not the largest of the glaciers in Patagonia by any stretch, what is unique about this lump of millennial ice is how close to its snout you can get.

Not only are there wooden boardwalks that allow you to follow the main wall of the ice from left to right, just a few hundred meters from it, but you can also go via kayak or boat to see it from a completely different angle.

You can even join a trekking tour from $110 USD for an hour and a half on the ice, with one of the companies based in El Calafate.

It’s fair to say that the walkways get packed with visitors in the summer months, so if you want to avoid the hordes, plan to get the earliest public bus departing from the bus terminal in El Calafate ($24 USD return).

You’ll need $25 USD in cash (Argentinean pesos) for paying the entrance fee, too.

Find all the information you need about visiting in our guide to the Perito Moreno glacier .

Villa O’Higgins, Chile

It’s a three-and-a-half-hour drive or bus journey down to the very end of the 1,240-kilometre Carretera Austral to reach Villa O’Higgins.

This tiny, 600-inhabitant village is unremarkable; however, in the surrounding area, you can visit the bewitching snout of the O’Higgins Glacier, a 75,000-hectare and 38-kilometer-long slice of dense, compressed ice where spectacular bergs calve at frequent intervals.

Unfortunately, the local operator running these tours closed during the pandemic. We’ll update this article when we find out who’s now offering this tour.

Glacier Alley, Chile

With its row of tidewater glaciers that hang precipitously over the waters of the Beagle Channel, Glacier Alley is one of those places that you have to pinch yourself to believe you’re actually seeing.

I’d long heard about these beautiful ice giants that are only accessible by ship but thought that my chances of seeing them were nil, as the main cruises that pass by cost well over $2,000 USD for the trip.

However, on my ferry ride between Punta Arenas and Puerto Williams, I realised that this magnificent view was one that I could actually afford.

I’ve written above about taking this very ferry, which normally passes mid-afternoon when the light is perfect.

The captain even slows the boat to allow you to take photos as the glaciers spill water into the ocean below, leaving a trail of milky-coloured, glacial meltwater to create beautiful patterns when it mixes with the saltwater below. See the section “ Best way to travel around Chilean Patagonia ” above for more information about visiting.

Marble Caves, Chile

The swirling, technicoloured patterns of the Marble Caves in Lago General Carrera are probably the Carretera Austral’s most famous sight.

Formed when the winds whip up the spray of the lake and erode the softer limestone, these grottos go back deep back into the rock.

Surreal in their kaleidoscope colouring and only accessible by speedboat or kayak from the closest settlement of Puerto Río Tranquilo (which, in itself, is a good five hours in bus or car from the nearest airport), these caves feel even more special because of the lengths you have to go to experience them and definitely rank among the best places to visit in Patagonia.

The colour of Lago General Carrera changes with the light and pictures are best in the early morning. If you visit between April and June, when water levels are lower, you can pass right through the passageways in the caves and out the other side.

Expect to pay around $10,000 CLP ($16 USD) to go with one of the companies along the shoreline in Puerto Río Tranquilo.

Queulat National Park, Chile

Duck-egg blue and perched precariously on the edge of some mountains, the Queulat Hanging Glacier is an iconic sight along the Carretera Austral .

It’s accessed by an hour and a half’s hike from the entrance into the Queulat National Park, where you climb slowly through dense, evergreen beech forest to reach a mirador located directly across from the glacier – offering truly magnificent views.

31 kilometres further south on the way to Coyhaique, the Bosque Encantado (Enchanted Forest) offers equally splendid scenery.

A 2.3-kilometer one-way trail climbs through a magical woodland of beech trees that drip with moss, before opening out to a moraine ridge where there’s a short climb up to an emerald lake filled by glacial meltwater spilling from the surrounding mountains.

Unfortunately, this part of the park is closed indefinitely due to a landslide.

Covid-19 update: You MUST make a reservation in order to visit the park. You can do this on this website , but you will need to pay in cash (bring small notes) upon arrival. You can only enter the park between 9:00am and 14:30pm (Tuesday to Sunday; you can stay within the park until 16.30pm) and you must bring your reservation code on your phone or printed off to show at the park entrance. Don’t forget your passport, which you’ll need to show to prove you’re not a Chilean resident.

The Queulat Hanging Glacier can easily be reached from a daily bus that leaves in the morning from nearby Puyuhuapi*.

*Because of the pandemic, I am not sure this is still running. Contact Turismo Experiencia Austral who used to run this service to confirm.

Where to go because no one else does

Caleta tortel, chile.

Caleta Tortel is a magical, fjord-side village almost at the very end of the serpentine Carretera Austral.

There are no roads here; instead, the village is connected by a series of cypress-wood walkways that hang above milky blue meltwaters, which drain from both the Northern and Southern Patagonia Ice Fields. This village is as close as you can get to a fairy tale in Patagonia.

I fell in love upon arrival, as the sun lit up the pastel-hued waters and the morning dew sparkled on the wooden walkways.

From the town, local people run boat trips out to hanging glaciers and the mysterious Isla de los Muertos (“the Island of the Dead”).

Here, 33 crosses bear testament to the deaths of the first Chilean people who inhabited the region and who are thought to have been poisoned by the forestry company that employed them.

Again, Caleta Tortel is made more magical by the fact that it is so inaccessible. You can either take the ferry from Puerto Natales (described above) or arrive overland by frequent minibus services from Cochrane, the closest large town on the Carretera Austral.

Chilean Tierra del Fuego

Almost the polar opposite of the tourist-jammed Torres del Paine National Park, Chilean Tierra del Fuego is a true Patagonian wilderness. Practically empty of people – both locals and tourists – this is one of my absolute favourite places in Patagonia.

What makes Tierra del Fuego so tantalisingly refreshing for adventurous travellers is the fact that it’s very difficult to access.

To admire its king penguin colony (the only one in the Americas) you can get a tour from Punta Arenas, but to go deeper into its lagoon-dotted and peat-bog laden landscapes, where herds of guanaco shuffle through dense forests and beavers blink at you from road-side streams, you’ll need a vehicle.

Rent a 4×4 from Punta Arenas , pack a tent and enough food to keep you going, plus an extra fuel can, and you’re ready to go.

This is a subject that’ll I’ll be writing about in more detail in the future; however, in the meantime, if you want to learn more, you can download my one-month Patagonia itinerary .

Puerto Williams, Chile

Chilean Patagonia’s best-kept secret – in my opinion at least – is Puerto Williams. The world’s southernmost settlement (nope, it isn’t actually Ushuaia), this tiny community sits on the southern shore of the Beagle Channel on Navarino Island.

Puerto Williams is beautiful for its remote, wild feel. Horses roam the street aimlessly and most of the town’s residents belong to the Chilean Navy.

However, tourism is on the rise, helped in part by the excellent Museo Martín Gusinde , the most complete museum in Chile about the seafaring, indigenous Yaghan people who have all but been driven to extinction (the final clutch of remaining descendants still live here on the island).

But it’s also an increasingly popular place to go hiking in Patagonia, with the Dientes de Navarino trail picking up steam.

Certainly not for novice hikers, the 53.5-kilometer Dientes de Navarino is a difficult, five-day, four-night hike that circumnavigates the mountain range of the same name, passing through peat bog and bleak, exposed rockfaces.

Staggering views across Navarino Island and a feeling of being at the uttermost ends of the earth are included.

I didn’t get the chance to hike here and there’s still very little on the internet in the way of hiking guides. Wikiexplora have a pretty detailed guide, as do Best Hike .

If you want to hire a guide or just want some up-to-date information, get in touch with local trekking agency, Explora Isla Navarino .

Where to go for an extreme adventure

Futaleufú, chile.

In the north of the Carretera Austral and just on the border with Argentina, Futaleufú is one of Chilean Patagonia’s most picturesque towns.

Tucked within a river valley and surrounded by green-drenched mountains, this town, despite its remote location, is globally-renowned – all thanks to the Futaleufú River that rushes past.

This thunderous river actually tumbles through 47 rapids, including class III and IV and the IV+ and is considered one of the best places for white water rafting in the world and it’s a great spot for experts and amateurs alike.

You’ll want to visit between November through March, although the end of the season has more stable weather conditions and higher water levels, meaning the rapids are even more gnarly and fun.

In the town, there are plenty of agencies that run tours (from $60,000 CLP ($93 USD)), most of whom have international guides and all of which speak excellent English. For the less water-inclined, there are plenty of nearby hiking routes too.

Exploradores Glacier, Chile

Although Perito Moreno is the best-known destination in Patagonia for ice trekking, the Exploradores Glacier, 25 kilometres east of Puerto Río Tranquilo on the Carretera Austral, is perhaps an even better place to do it.

You’ll get a wide-reaching panorama of the glacier and the Northern Patagonian Ice Field beyond from the mirador (viewpoint) at the start of the trek (and accessible for those not ice trekking), before hiking onto the glacier for a six-hour experience, climbing moraine boulders and through dripping ice ravines.

You can book onto a tour with a qualified guide in Puerto Río Tranquilo at a cost of around $70,000 CLP ($110 USD).

Want more inspiration? Read about my other top Patagonia highlights .

Where to stay in Patagonia

Types of accommodations.

Accommodation in Patagonia varies across the region and across Chile and Argentina. These are the main types of accommodation that you can expect to find.

Camping is popular among Argentinean and Chilean tourists, so you’ll find plenty of campgrounds in Patagonia for putting up your tent. If you’re budget backpacking in Patagonia, this is your cheapest option.

You can expect facilities to include showers (most often hot, but not always), taps with clean water and, the most important thing (for the locals at least!), barbecue areas.

Most national parks in Chile and Argentina also have campgrounds, although the quality of services vary with those in Torres del Paine National Park among the best and those in Los Glaciares National Park pretty poor.

Prices start from upwards of $5,000 CLP ($8 USD).

You can also wild camp in Patagonia, and particularly on the Chilean side, although make sure to ask permission if you’re obviously on someone’s land (they’ll likely say yes) and don’t leave a trace .

In Argentina, the exposed nature of the pampa means there’s very little protection from the wind for your tent and you might not find it a particularly enjoyable experience being blown over in the night.

Wherever you camp, you’ll want a decent tent that’s lightweight enough for multi-day hiking trips.

I recommend the Big Agnes Copper Spur: read my honest review of the Big Agnes .

Hostales and Residenciales

Hostales and residenciales are some of the most common types of accommodation in Patagonia, although you’ve probably never heard of them.

Hostal doesn’t mean what we would call a “hostel”. It’s similar, in that it’s accommodation for travellers, although it’s rarely with shared bedrooms. Most are private, often with a private bath, and with access to communal areas and occasionally a kitchen. Breakfast is generally included in the price too.

A residencial is similar, but normally within the house of the owner and the facilities are often a lot more basic.

You can expect to pay from $12,000 CLP ($19 USD) for a single bedroom and $22,000 CLP ($35 USD) for a private in a residencial , and $18,000 CLP ($28 USD) for a single and $28,000 CLP ($44 USD) in a hostal , although outside of December through March, prices drop and you can often negotiate.

You rarely find these types of Patagonian accommodation on website such as Booking.com .

To reserve (something essential in summer), look for accommodation on Google Maps and contact the owners directly by telephone.

Cabañas

Among Chileans and Argentineans, cabañas (cabins) are the accommodation of choice.

Cabañas are normally pretty basic, wooden structures, comprising two or three bedrooms (they’re intended for large Chilean or Argentinean families), with a private bathroom, living room and well-equipped kitchen.

For a cabin for four people, you can pay anywhere between $40,000 CLP ($63 USD) and $80,000 CLP ($126 USD).

These make sense if you’re travelling in a group, although you’ll sometimes find owners open to a reduction in price for a couple, particularly if you’re travelling outside of December through March.

Again, an increasing number of Patagonian cabañas are appearing on Booking.com , but I’d recommend you also look up options in a given destination on Google Maps and, where possible, book directly with the owners for cheaper prices.

Hostels, in the traditional sense of budget accommodation with dormitory-style rooms, exist throughout Patagonia, although primary in the larger towns and cities.

They’re generally very comfortable, with facilities are as you would expect, with often a communal kitchen and communal areas available to guests.

You can expect to pay upwards of $13,000 CLP ($20 USD) for a dorm bed in a hostel. Privates start from anywhere above $25,000 CLP ($40 USD).

Hostels in Patagonia are best booked in advance in high season, as they can often be full with tourists. You can find them both on Booking.com and Hostalworld.com .

B&Bs and Hotels

There is a proliferation of increasingly comfortable B&Bs, and expensive hotels in Patagonia, with everything up to five-star properties in areas such as Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine National Park, El Calafate and Ushuaia.

B&Bs and other small guest houses often start from $45,000 CLP ($70 USD), while hotels range from this upwards.

Again, if you’re heading on a short vacation in Patagonia, you’ll want to book hotels in Patagonia in advance in high season, at least a few months in advance for January and February. Again, you can find most on Booking.com .

Cost: $$$$+

Remote lodges have become a new trend in Patagonia and often offer the most exclusive, luxury accommodation and attention.

Properties such as Explora , Tierra Patagonia  and  Awasi (all in Torres del Paine National Park) offer complete services of hotel pick-ups, all-inclusive dining and private guides and transportation – but you’ll be paying at least $600,000 CLP ($940 USD) per night for this service, with a minimum of three nights standard.

Again, booking in high season is absolutely essential, as these properties are normally small and exclusive.

Booking accommodation in Patagonia

When I travel to Patagonia, I use a combination of advance booking through websites such as Booking.com (which I’ve found to have the most complete collection of accommodation in Patagonia advertised on it) and Hostelworld.com .

If you’re backpacking in Patagonia, you probably want to keep your plans flexible and this is generally possible, although be aware that you might struggle to find cheap or pleasant accommodation if you turn up to a town and start hunting then, rather than booking ahead.

When I’m travelling out of peak season (December through March), I’ll often book a couple of days in advance either through these methods or by finding properties on Google Maps and contacting lodgings directly by phone.

The issue with this latter form of booking is that you need to speak Spanish.

In peak season, I would recommend booking at least a week in advance for big Patagonia cities.

Be sure to bring US dollars with you as many types of accommodation offer tax discounts if you pay this way.

Where to eat or get food in Patagonia

Food in Patagonia is expensive, due to the fact that it needs to be transported down from further north in Chile and Argentina.

You can expect food to cost at 30% more than in other parts of the two countries.

Supermarkets in Patagonia

You can get most fresh fruits, vegetables and other goods in supermarkets in large towns or cities.

The best range and prices found in Punta Arenas and Coyhaique (and Puerto Montt before you enter Patagonia) on the Chilean side and in Ushuaia, El Calafate and Bariloche on the Argentinean side.

For places such as Puerto Natales, which does have a supermarket, but one that is poorly stocked, and El Chaltén, which doesn’t, stock up in the nearest city (Punta Arenas and El Calafate respectively).

In summer, supplies run out quickly and, particularly if you’re buying good for hiking the W or O in Torres del Paine, you’ll be surprised by how little you can find in Puerto Natales.

In smaller towns, such as those along the Carretera Austral, you will find mostly tinned goods, bread and some meat and cheese but you’ll struggle to find fresh fruit and vegetables.

You’ll also find prices significantly more expensive than in bigger supermarkets.

Large supermarkets generally always accept debit and credit cards and are normally open every day of the week until 9pm or 10pm, with shortened hours on Sundays.

Self-catering in Patagonia

If you want to keep costs down on your trip to Patagonia, self-catering is the easiest way. As I’ve mentioned above, you’ll want to stock up in bigger towns and cities.

Unfortunately, kitchen access is not a given with all types of accommodation, so I would recommend double-checking this before booking anywhere. Hotels very rarely have these facilities.

Campgrounds occasionally have stoves and cooking equipment, but this isn’t the norm; bring your own gear if you plan on camping.

If you’re after recommendations for light-weight cooking gear, check out my Patagonia packing list .

Remember that you cannot cross into Chile from Argentina with fresh fruit, vegetables or animal products, so avoid doing a big shop just before you cross the border!

Restaurants and dining in Patagonia

Dining on slow-roasted Patagonian lamb or a perfectly-cooked steak is the ultimate Patagonian dining experience, however it comes at a cost.

Restaurants are similar in price with those in Santiago and Buenos Aires, although quality is often much lower.

It’s not unusual to spend over $15,000 CLP ($23.5 USD) for a main and a drink in a medium-priced restaurant in cities across Patagonia and you can expect prices to not be much lower even in small, local restaurants in towns and villages.

However, cheap restaurants offering menu del dia (a fixed menu, normally of two or three courses and sometimes with a drink) can often be found for around $5,000 CLP ($8 USD).

You can always find empanadas in Argentina and Chile for around $1,000 CLP ($1.5 USD) too, which make for a cheap lunch.

Money and exchange in Patagonia

Making sure you get a decent exchange rate and can withdraw money are essential things to plan before you go to Patagonia.

Getting hold of money can be an issue, mainly in Argentina, and one that it’s worth considering before you leave home.

ATMs in Patagonia

You’ll quickly notice in Argentina that getting money out of ATMs can be a real pain in the arse.

I was in Ushuaia when practically all of the cash machines in the entire city stopped functioning for a few hours – not a good thing to happen when you’ve just crossed the border from Chile and have no money on you.

They also have tendency to run out of cash on weekends and bank holidays and can be petulant and not accept a lot of foreign cards.

There’s also a fixed $220 ARS ($8 USD) fee every time you withdraw cash and you’re only allowed to do so in batches of $2,400 ARS ($86 USD) making the whole process exceptionally expensive.

You’ll find that many hotels and tour agencies don’t accept credit cards.

In Chile, withdrawing cash can be costly too. Most banks charge between a $4,500 CLP ($7 USD) and $6,000 CLP ($9.5 USD) fee for using the ATM, although you can withdraw up to a maximum of $200,000 CLP ($314 USD) at a time.

For me (a UK bank account holder), I’ve found that Scotiabank is the only one that doesn’t charge me anything to withdraw cash; unfortunately, I don’t know if this only works for European cards. It’s also a bank that’s only found in cities.

I’ve never had an issue with Chilean banks in Patagonia not having money, although there always is the possibility of small towns running out of cash on weekends and holiday weekends in summer.

Money exchange

While the days of the “blue dollar” are long gone (when you could exchange US dollars for up to 40% higher on the black market in Argentina than the official rate), Patagonia is still a good place to bring dollars with you.

Not only is it exceptionally safe, so you don’t need to worry too much about carrying cash, you’ll find that plenty of hotels and even tour agencies on both sides of the border offer discounts if you pay in dollars.

This is particularly the case in Chilean Patagonia and Chile in general where foreigners should get a tax break of 19% anyway, although in practice, smaller lodgings only offer this is you pay in physical dollars, when they should offer it to you for having a foreign card.

Dollars can be exchanged for good rates in exchange houses around Patagonia.

I was surprised to find that no one wanted to give me a good rate on exchanging Chilean pesos when I was in Argentinean Patagonia in April 2018.

You’ll also struggle to find good rates on British Sterling and Euros.

If there’s anything you think I’ve missed, please add it via the comments below or if you have any further questions, contact me directly at [email protected] .

I promise I don’t send spam:  just tips, inspiration and the tools to make a South American adventure a reality , straight to your inbox! 

FAQs about visiting Patagonia

What is the best month to visit patagonia.

The best months to visit Patagonia are typically November through mid-December and March. Known as the shoulder season, these months see significantly fewer tourists in the region than the high-season months of late December through February and the weather is still pleasant enough for hiking and other outdoor activities. 

The weather in Patagonia is always unpredictable and it’s always possible to experience all four seasons in one day! However, typically in spring (October-November), temperatures hit up to 18°C (64°F), while in fall (March-April) they hover around 10°C (50°F). Wind speeds are also significantly lower than in summer, where they can read up to 120 km/h (74 miles/h) at their strongest!

Is Patagonia worth traveling to?

Yes, Patagonia is worth traveling to! It’s one of my favorite places on the planet and if you love hiking in beautiful national parks with a backdrop of snow-dusted peaks, are keen to spot endemic wildlife species such as guanaco, Andean condors, and pumas, or just want to go to “the ends of the Earth”, then Patagonia is a destination for you. 

Sure, it’s expensive to visit because of its distance from major cities such as Santiago de Chile and Buenos Aires, and it’s certainly now on the tourist trail (and not as remote and quiet as many expect), but you won’t regret visiting Patagonia.

Where do you fly into to go to Patagonia?

Where you fly into to go to Patagonia depends on whether you’re visiting the Chilean or Argentine sides of the country. Most people fly from Santiago de Chile into Puerto Natales or Punta Arenas (for southern Chilean Patagonia, including Torres del Paine National Park), while others fly from Buenos Aires in Argentina to El Calafate or Ushuaia (for southern Argentine Patagonia, including the Perito Moreno Glacier). 

If you want to visit other parts of Patagonia, there are alternative options. For the Carretera Austral in northern Chilean Patagonia, you’ll want to fly to Puerto Montt or Balmaceda. For Bariloche in northern Argentine Patagonia, you can fly directly there from Buenos Aires. 

Is Patagonia better in Chile or Argentina?

As someone who lived for three years in Chile, I’m a little biased in saying that Chilean Patagonia is better than Argentine Patagonia. However, I still think it’s true. Chilean Patagonia has a lot more variety of scenery, from the fjords, isolated national parks, glaciers, and lush vegetation of the Carretera Austral, to the spectacular mountain scenery and wildlife of Torres del Paine National Park, it’s an exceptionally diverse place. 

Argentine Patagonia also has its highlights, however. It’s incredible to get so close to El Perito Glacier, and the hiking from both El Chaltén and Bariloche is some of the best in South America. There’s also plenty of wildlife, from the penguin colonies and whales near Puerto Madryn to those accessible from Ushuaia. 

Want to save this epic Patagonia travel guide for later? Make sure you pin it!

Javier Buchanan

Thursday 15th of December 2022

Hi Steph! Congrats on your post, it certainly has plenty of information of all kinds. If I'm allowed a comment, I think you should have inlcuded Bariloche on the "must see" list. It's Argentinian Patagonia's largest destination, apart from the ski, it has hundreds of hiking trails, lakes, mountains and fairy tale forests. Certainly a must for me :)

Steph Dyson

Hi Javier, yes lots of people love it! I found it very busy when I visited and that spoilt the experience for me but I'm keen to return and see if that changes my mind! Steph

The Vandersons

Tuesday 18th of October 2022

I'm curious why you say the "blue dollar" days are long gone?

We're here in Argentina and even better than the blue dollar (280 to 1 USD) is using Western Union (310 to 1 USD today), and the official exchange if you use an ATM like you suggest is only 145 to 1 USD!

Thursday 19th of January 2023

You are correct - I haven't had a chance to update this article recently! Steph

Sunday 9th of October 2022

I would like to go to Patagonia end of Jan for 2 weeks, I want to see the highlights, hike, see wildlife , see the fjords, glaciers, and sea life. I would like help in planning the trip. Thank you

Wednesday 12th of October 2022

Hi Janet, you need to drop me an email at [email protected] and we can chat further about your plan. Steph

Thursday 7th of May 2020

Hello Steph, this is a wonderful article.

Is there a better way to visit Atacama along with Patagonia? I like to plan this starting next Jan 2020 for 2 weeks.

And I don't see any tours for Atacama along with Patagonia but itself.

Thanks Gabe

Thursday 14th of May 2020

Hi Gabe, you'll have to fly into Santiago from Patagonia and back out again to San Pedro (or vice versa) to see both as there's no easy connection between them unfortunately! Steph

Monday 28th of October 2019

Thanks a lot for this helpful guide! Would be interest in your view on this: due to time restrictions (6 weeks in Chile) we are thinking about two questions: 1) Should we include the very south around Ushuaia in our schedule vs. focusing solely on the far north (Lauca, Atacama) and the areas around Puerto Montt, Chalten, Calafate, Puerto Natales and Punto Arenas? Either at the cost of something else or at the cost of a bit of travel stress 2) We are considering both Navimag (Puerto Montt - Puerto Natales) and the Yaghan (Puerto Natales - Puerto WIlliams) ferries. You seem to have done both. What would you suggest: both or only one? If you had to decide for one of them, which one would you recommend?

Would be very thankful for your guidance! Christian

Thursday 7th of November 2019

Hi Christian, personally I would recommend trying to make sure you have enough time to see everything in as much detail as you want (I would personally plan out day-by-day the itinerary and see if the trip you are trying to do is realistic - this is something I do for my travel planning clients!). I personally enjoyed the Yaghan more than the Navimag but it really depends on if you have the time to get that far south. Have a fantastic trip! Steph

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Patagonia Travel Guide: 2023-2024 (Be There) Paperback – 1 May 2023

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• Book 1 of 3 Be There
• Print length 128 pages
• Language English
• Publication date 1 May 2023
• Dimensions 14 x 0.74 x 19.99 cm
• ISBN-10 9878294226
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• Publisher ‏ : ‎ ISBN.com.ar (1 May 2023)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Paperback ‏ : ‎ 128 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 9878294226
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• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 14 x 0.74 x 19.99 cm
• 11,608 in Travel & Tourism (Books)

About the author

Gerardo m. bartolomé.

Gerardo Bartolomé was born in Buenos Aires in 1962. In 2003 he led a six days long expedition navigating the Santa Cruz River (southern Patagonia) recreating Darwin and Fitzroy's trip in the same place in 1834. After that he started to write a historical novel about Darwin and his theory of Evolution which was published in 2005 ("La traición de Darwin"). As part of the investigation for his book, Bartolomé also travelled to other important "Darwin historical sites" such as Punta Alta (near de argentine city of Bahia Blanca), Galápagos (Ecuador), Chiloe (Chile) and the Uspallata pass on the Andes, among others.

In 2007 he published, along with Sergio Zagier, Amanda and Barry Glickman, Patagonia through the eyes of Darwin", mainly a visual book with observations taken from Darwin's texts which explains the geology, flora, fauna, anthropology and history of this once mysterious region.

In 2008 he published another historical novel "El límite de las mentiras", this one about Perito Moreno a famous argentine politician and adventurer.

In 2010 his first book was translated to English ("Darwin's Betrayal") and French (La Trahison de Darwin") and, together with the Spanish version,were published as E-books for Kindle.

Also in 201o he published a short story book called "Patagonia a sangre fría" not yet translated to English.

Gerardo Bartolomé is now preparing a historical novel about the Indians of the Argentine Pampas.

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Planning a Trip to Patagonia: A Complete Guide (2024/25)

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Imagine standing amidst towering glaciers, observing unique wildlife, and trekking through some of the most breathtaking landscapes on Earth. Welcome to Patagonia, a vast and diverse region stretching across southern Argentina and Chile . This incredible destination, located at the southern tip of South America, offers an unforgettable adventure for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts alike. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll share insider tips and first-hand experiences to help you with planning a trip to Patagonia, ensuring the perfect Patagonian journey.

Key Takeaways

• Planning a trip to Patagonia? Get the best out of your experience with tips on when to visit, transportation options and accommodation choices.
• Explore iconic sights like W Trek, Perito Moreno Glacier & Laguna de los Tres by creating an itinerary tailored for one week, two weeks or three weeks.
• Strategically planning and optimizing your itinerary can lead to significant savings!

Best Time to Visit Patagonia

Choosing the right time to visit Patagonia can significantly impact your trip experience. The region’s weather and tourist influx vary throughout the year, influencing the availability of outdoor activities and accommodations. So, when should you embark on your Patagonian adventure?

We will discuss the pros and cons of visiting during different seasons.

High Season: December to February

The high season in Patagonia runs from December to February, coinciding with the Patagonian summer. Warm temperatures reach up to 22°C (72°F), perfect for outdoor activities like hiking in Torres del Paine National Park or exploring the breathtaking Chilean fjords. Wildlife enthusiasts will also enjoy spotting penguins and guanacos during these months.

However, the high season comes with its drawbacks. Popular destinations like Torres del Paine and Tierra del Fuego can get crowded, with limited availability of accommodations and packed hiking trails. Moreover, Patagonia’s unpredictable weather means you might experience sudden changes, even during the summer season. You could encounter:

• Sunny skies
• Cool breezes

All in one day.

Despite the challenges, visiting Patagonia during the high season ensures you’ll be able to participate in numerous outdoor activities while enjoying the region’s stunning landscapes. Just be prepared for rapidly changing weather and high tourist traffic.

Shoulder Season: September to November and March to April

If you prefer a more tranquil experience, consider visiting Patagonia during the shoulder season, which spans from September to November and March to April . During these months, you’ll encounter fewer crowds and still enjoy pleasant temperatures that range from the high 50s to the low 60s Fahrenheit (14-18°C).

The shoulder season also offers a unique opportunity to witness the region’s stunning landscapes as they transition between seasons. In spring (September-November), wildflowers bloom and fill the valleys with vibrant colors. Fall (March-April) brings a palette of warm hues as the foliage changes, painting the landscape in shades of red, orange, and yellow.

Keep in mind that the shoulder season may bring more rain than the summer months, with June being the wettest month. Nevertheless, the shoulder season’s milder temperatures, fewer crowds, and beautiful scenery make it an appealing time to visit Patagonia.

Low Season: June to August

While it may be tempting to visit Patagonia during the low season ( June to August ) to avoid the crowds, we would advise against it. The winter months bring heavy snowfall, resulting in closed hiking trails and reduced transportation schedules. Accommodations may also be limited during this period.

Temperatures during the low season range between the 30s to 60s Fahrenheit (3-18 degrees Celsius), adding to the challenges of exploring the region. For these reasons, it’s best to plan your Patagonian adventure during the high or shoulder seasons to fully enjoy the region’s activities and attractions.

Getting to Patagonia: Transportation Options

When planning your trip to Patagonia, you’ll need to consider transportation options to navigate the region’s vast distances. The most popular choices include flying, bus travel, and ferry travel. Each option offers distinct advantages and drawbacks, so let’s examine them to help you make the best decision for your Patagonian journey.

Flying is the fastest way to get around Patagonia, but it can be expensive. Bus

Flying to Patagonia

Flying is the most convenient and time-saving option for reaching Patagonia, especially if you have limited time to explore the region. Major cities like Santiago, Chile, and Buenos Aires, Argentina, offer flights to popular destinations such as:

• Puerto Madryn
• El Calafate
• Punta Arenas (for southern Chilean Patagonia)
• Ushuaia (for southern Argentine Patagonia)

Airlines such as Jetsmart, Sky Airline, and LATAM operate flights to various Patagonian airports in Chile. And Aerolineas Argentinas covers most of the flights within Argentina along with the low cost companies Flybondy and Jetsmart.

Booking flights in advance is recommended due to potential price and availability fluctuations throughout the year. To compare flight prices, consider using websites like Skyscanner.com .

While flying is the fastest option, it may not be the most cost-effective. Additionally, some remote destinations in Patagonia may not have air connections, necessitating alternative transportation methods to reach them.

Bus Travel in Patagonia

Bus travel is an affordable alternative to flying, though it can be time-consuming due to the region’s vast distances. Despite the long travel times, buses in Patagonia are generally comfortable and punctual, ensuring a pleasant journey.

Purchasing bus tickets can be done directly at bus stations or online via websites like BusBud.com. Be prepared for border crossing between Argentina and Chile, as they may require additional time and documentation checks.

While bus travel allows you to save on transportation costs, it may not be the most efficient method if you have limited time in Patagonia. Travel fatigue may also be a concern, as some bus journeys can span multiple days.

Ferry Travel in Patagonia

Ferry travel in Patagonia is a less common option, with limited connections available. However, it offers a unique and leisurely way to explore the region’s stunning landscapes, especially the Chilean fjords.

Though ferry travel may be slower and less frequent than other transportation options, it provides a memorable experience for those seeking a more intimate connection with Patagonia’s natural beauty. It’s an excellent choice if you have ample time to explore the region and prefer a slower-paced journey.

Accommodation Choices in Patagonia

Your Patagonian adventure will require comfortable and convenient accommodations to rest and recharge after a day of exploration. Fortunately, the region offers a variety of options to suit different budgets and preferences, from budget-friendly hostels and guesthouses to mid-range hotels and luxury resorts.

We will examine the range of lodging options available in Patagonia.

Budget Accommodations

For travelers on a tight budget, hostels and guesthouses offer affordable lodging options without breaking the bank. These accommodations typically provide dorm-style rooms or private rooms with shared facilities. You can find hostels in popular destinations like El Calafate , El Chalten , and Puerto Madryn.

To search for budget accommodations, use websites like Booking.com and Hostelworld.com. Keep in mind that prices may vary depending on the season, so it’s essential to book in advance to secure the best deals.

Mid-Range Accommodations

Mid-range accommodations offer a balance between affordability and comfort, providing amenities like free Wi-Fi, daily breakfast, and in-room conveniences. These hotels often feature on-site restaurants, shared lounges, and communal terraces, allowing you to unwind and socialize with fellow travelers.

Some popular mid-range options in Patagonia include Tierra de Leyendas in Ushuaia and Peninsula Petit Hotel in San Carlos de Bariloche. Prices for mid-range accommodations generally range from $60 to $150 per night, depending on the location and amenities offered.

Reviewing cancellation policies is a must when booking mid-range accommodations since these can vary among properties. Plan carefully and book in advance to ensure you find the perfect fit for your Patagonian adventure.

Luxury Accommodations

For travelers seeking a more indulgent experience, luxury resorts and lodges in Patagonia offer top-notch services and facilities. These high-end accommodations often feature private excursions, luxury spa facilities, and secluded locations, ensuring an unforgettable stay.

EcoCamp Patagonia, for example, is an extraordinary eco-dome property that provides a unique lodging experience amidst the stunning landscapes of Torres del Paine National Park. Other luxury options, such as Tierra Patagonia and Awasi, are known for their incredible views, exclusive services, and personalized experiences.

For those seeking a unique and luxurious outdoor experience, consider glamping in Patagonia. Glamping, or glamorous camping, combines the thrill of camping with the comforts of a hotel. Imagine waking up in a comfortable bed, stepping outside your tent, and being greeted by the breathtaking landscapes of Patagonia. This experience is offered by several providers in the region, allowing you to immerse yourself in nature without sacrificing comfort. For more information on this ultimate outdoor adventure, check out this Patagonia glamping guide .

Luxury accommodations may come with a higher price tag, but the exceptional service, breathtaking surroundings, and exclusive experiences make them well worth the investment for a truly unforgettable Patagonian journey.

Essential Activities and Attractions

A trip to Patagonia offers a wealth of opportunities to explore diverse landscapes, encounter unique wildlife, and immerse yourself in the region’s rich culture. To make the most of your Patagonian adventure, consider incorporating essential activities and attractions into your itinerary, such as:

• Hiking in the stunning national parks
• Wildlife encounters, including penguin colonies and whale watching
• Glacier exploration, with visits to Perito Moreno and other impressive glaciers

By including these activities, you’ll have an unforgettable experience in Patagonia.

We will delve into these unforgettable activities.

Hiking and Trekking

Hiking is an essential activity for any Patagonian adventure, allowing you to discover the region’s stunning national parks and landscapes up close. Whether you’re a seasoned trekker or a casual hiker, Patagonia offers trails to suit all abilities and interests.

Torres del Paine National Park in Chilean Patagonia is a popular destination for hikers , boasting iconic trails like the W trek and the O Circuit. In Argentine Patagonia, Los Glaciares National Park offers equally stunning hikes, such as the Laguna de los Tres trail and the Laguna Cerro Torre trek.

Regardless of your chosen trail, always ensure you’re prepared with appropriate hiking gear, sufficient supplies, and a respect for the environment. Hiking in Patagonia is an unforgettable experience that will leave you in awe of the region’s natural beauty.

Wildlife Encounters

Patagonia’s diverse ecosystems are home to a wide array of unique wildlife, making it a fantastic destination for nature enthusiasts. Some of the wildlife you can encounter in the region includes:

These are just a few examples of the incredible wildlife you can see in Patagonia, offering you the opportunity for once-in-a-lifetime encounters.

Punta Tombo peninsula is the top spot for penguin-spotting, with the best viewing months between September and April. Whale watching is another popular activity, particularly in Peninsula Valdes from June to December, during the whales’ mating season.

Remember to always maintain a respectful distance and follow local guidelines when observing wildlife. Your responsible behavior will help protect these incredible creatures and ensure future generations can enjoy the same thrilling encounters.

Glacier Exploration

A visit to Patagonia is incomplete without exploring its awe-inspiring glaciers. Perito Moreno Glacier in Argentine Patagonia and Grey Glacier in Chilean Patagonia are two of the most impressive and accessible glaciers in the region.

Various tour operators offer day trips to these glaciers, with options for guided hikes, boat tours, and even ice trekking. No matter which option you choose, witnessing the sheer size and beauty of these ancient ice formations is a once-in-a-lifetime experience not to be missed on your Patagonian journey.

Planning Your Patagonia Itinerary

With so much to see and do in Patagonia, planning your itinerary can be both exciting and challenging. To help you make the most of your time in this vast and diverse region, we’ve created suggested itineraries for one-week, two-week, and three-week trips.

These itineraries can serve as a starting point for your own custom Patagonian adventure, tailored to your interests and available time.

One Week Itinerary

With just one week in Patagonia, you’ll want to focus on the region’s key highlights. Flying from Santiago or Buenos Aires to popular destinations like Torres del Paine National Park or Los Glaciares National Park will maximize your time for exploration.

In Torres del Paine, you can undertake the famous W trek, a 3-5 day hike that covers some of the park’s most iconic sights. In Los Glaciares National Park, a visit to the stunning Perito Moreno Glacier and a hike to Laguna de los Tres near El Chaltén are must-do experiences.

By focusing on these key attractions, you’ll make the most of your limited time in Patagonia.

Two Week Itinerary

With two weeks in Patagonia, you can delve deeper into the region’s diverse landscapes and attractions. In addition to the highlights mentioned in the one-week itinerary, consider exploring the Chilean fjords and the Carretera Austral , a scenic route that stretches over 1,200 kilometers through southern Chile.

The Carretera Austral offers access to remote national parks, glacier-fed lakes, and dramatic mountain landscapes. Highlights along the route include Pumalin Park, Queulat National Park, Cerro Castillo, and the Marble Caves. A two-week itinerary allows you to immerse yourself in Patagonia’s natural beauty and experience a more extensive range of attractions.

Three Week Itinerary

A three-week trip to Patagonia provides ample time to fully immerse yourself in the region’s diverse landscapes, wildlife, and culture. In addition to the destinations covered in the shorter itineraries, consider visiting Tierra del Fuego, the southernmost region of South America.

Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, offers unique experiences like walking with penguins and cruising the Beagle Channel. Additionally, the Lake District region of both Chile and Argentina, located near the snow capped mountains of the Andes Mountains, features picturesque lakes, quaint towns, and opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking, fishing, and skiing.

With three weeks to explore Patagonia, you can truly experience the region’s incredible variety and create lasting memories.

Budgeting for Your Patagonia Trip

Planning your Patagonian adventure requires budgeting for the following expenses:

• Accommodation
• Transportation

Expenses can significantly differ based on your travel style and preferences, emphasizing the need for advanced planning and informed decision-making to optimize your budget.

To help you save money and make the most of your trip, we’ve compiled a list of money-saving tips that can be applied throughout your Patagonian journey.

Money Saving Tips

Budget-conscious travelers can save on costs by:

• Staying at hostels and guesthouses, which offer affordable accommodation options without compromising on comfort
• Cooking their own meals, which can significantly reduce food expenses
• Taking advantage of communal kitchens provided by many hostels and guesthouses, allowing them to prepare meals with local ingredients purchased from nearby markets or grocery stores.

Hitchhiking is another money-saving option for transportation within Patagonia. While not suitable for everyone, hitchhiking can provide a unique and cost-effective way to explore the region.

Lastly, being flexible with your transportation choices can help you find the best deals on bus tickets, flights, and rental cars. By implementing these money-saving tips, you can make your Patagonian adventure more affordable and enjoyable without sacrificing unforgettable experiences, including finding a great deal on a rental car.

Custom Itinerary Planning with a Patagonian Native

If you’re feeling overwhelmed with planning your trip to Patagonia, don’t worry, I’m here to help! Born and raised in Patagonia, I have over 20 years of experience organizing trips to both Argentine and Chilean Patagonia. With my deep knowledge and understanding of this region, I can help you plan a custom itinerary that will ensure you see the best of what Patagonia has to offer , tailored to your interests and preferences. Let’s make your Patagonian journey an unforgettable adventure!

Patagonia’s awe-inspiring landscapes, unique wildlife, and diverse outdoor activities make it a truly unforgettable destination. From the towering peaks of Torres del Paine to the stunning fjords of southern Chile, there’s something for every traveler in this vast and captivating region. By carefully planning your itinerary, budget, and travel arrangements, you can make the most of your Patagonian adventure and create lasting memories.

We hope this comprehensive guide has provided you with the information and inspiration you need to embark on your own Patagonian journey. With careful planning and responsible tourism practices, you’ll be well on your way to experiencing the trip of a lifetime in one of the world’s most breathtaking regions.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many days do you need for patagonia.

If you wish to explore all the highlights of Patagonia, plan for at least 7-10 days to fully take in its breathtaking 409,500 sq miles. By doing so, you’ll get to visit places like Torres del Paine, Tierra del Fuego, the Perito Moreno glacier (Argentina), El Chaltén (Argentina) and the Carretera Austral (Chile).

What is the best month to visit Patagonia?

For an unforgettable Patagonia experience, plan your trip between November and March!

How far in advance should you plan a trip to Patagonia?

Book your tickets six months in advance if travelling to Patagonia during December to February, and three months ahead for other high season months.

What time of year should I visit Patagonia?

The best time to visit Patagonia is from November to March, when the weather is mild and you can experience its stunning landscapes and pristine wilderness in their full splendor.

How can I get to Patagonia?

You can get to Patagonia by flying.

My organised trips to Patagonia

In the carousel below you can see already assembled itineraries for inspiration, click on the one you are interested in and ask me for a quote.

Compact trip through the southernmost Argentinean Patagonia: Ushuaia and El Calafate

Enjoy the 3 most relevant ecosystems in Argentina: The End of the World, The Glaciers and the Iguazu Falls.

Trip to Patagonia Argentina in 7 days touring the most beautiful landscapes of Patagonia Argentina (Peninsula Valdés & El Calafate)

The Carretera Austral by rental car is probably one of the most spectacular routes in Patagonia, designed to be travelled with plenty of time in your rental car.

Tour along Route 40 in Patagonia, starting on Route 3 on the Atlantic coast and continuing along Route 40 until reaching the Andes Mountains and El Calafate.

The Australis Cruises are Expedition Cruises that sail through the Strait of Magellan and the Beagle Channel, exploring one of the most beautiful and unspoiled regions of the world such as Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego.

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About the author

I am Matias, born in Patagonia, and a lover of my land.

For more than 20 years I help foreign travellers to organise their trip to Patagonia.

I also manage this exotic accommodation on the Atlantic coast.

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On South America’s southern frontier, nature grows wild, barren and beautiful. Spaces are large, as are the silences that fill them. For the newly arrived, such emptiness can be as impressive as the sight of Patagonia’s jagged peaks, pristine rivers and dusty backwater oases. In its enormous scale, Patagonia offers a wealth of potential experiences and landscapes.

Best Time to Visit

Best places to visit, attractions, must-see attractions.

Glaciar Perito Moreno

Inland Patagonia

Among the Earth's most dynamic and accessible ice fields, Glaciar Perito Moreno is the stunning centerpiece of the southern sector of Parque Nacional Los…

Museo Paleontológico Egidio Feruglio

Coastal Patagonia

Showcasing the most important fossil finds in Patagonia, this natural-history museum offers outstanding life-size dinosaur exhibits and more than 1700…

El Calafate

Unique and exciting, this gorgeous museum illuminates the world of ice. Displays and bilingual films show how glaciers form, along with documentaries on…

Puerto Madryn

Celebrating the area’s unique marine ecosystem, this masterpiece brings an artistic sensitivity to extensive scientific research. There are exhibits on…

Portal La Ascensión

An outstanding addition to Parque Nacional Patagonia, this historic estancia on Lago Buenos Aires has an information center, lakeside car camping and a…

Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

Among the Earth’s most dynamic and accessible ice fields, Glaciar Perito Moreno is the stunning centerpiece of the southern sector of Parque Nacional Los…

Reserva Faunística Península Valdés

Lying on Argentina's barren eastern Patagonian coast, this oddly shaped peninsula is home to some of the country's richest wildlife. Elephant seals,…

Cueva de las Manos

The incredible rock art of Cueva de las Manos was proclaimed a Unesco World Heritage site in 1999. Dating from about 7370 BC, these polychrome rock…

Planning Tools

Expert guidance to help you plan your trip.

Best Things to Do

Here are our picks for exploring the best forests, mountains, glacial lakes and grasslands of Patagonia, one of the world’s most epic places.

Transportation

Here is all you need to know about how to get around Chilean and Argentinean Patagonia by plane, bus, boat, bicycle and car.

Free Things to Do

Patagonia can be the most expensive place to visit in Chile and Argentina. But fear not! These are the best things to do for free (or almost free).

Best Road Trips

With remote destinations at the end of scenic roads, road-tripping is the best way to explore Patagonia. Here are the top driving routes.

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Destination Practicalities

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Expert travel advice for first-time travelers to the Patagonia region of Argentina, including top destinations, when to go, must-do activities and more.

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• Patagonia Books & Guides

Suggested Books and Guides for Patagonia

OUR FAVORITES AND MORE

PATAGONIA BOOKS & GUIDES

Here is a brief selection of favorite, new and hard-to-find books, prepared for your journey.

Caterina Perrone Culture Smart! Chile Guidebook | 2007 | PAPER | 168 pages

A concise and practical guide to local customs, etiquette and culture. ($10.95)

Buy this Book

Chris Moss Patagonia, A Cultural History Cultural Portrait | 2008 | HARD COVER | 328 pages

A journalist with the Buenos Aires Herald, Moss follows a colorful cast of characters -- from Magellan and Darwin to mad kings, gauchos, and Nazi fugitives -- in this vivid overview of the culture and history of Patagonia. ($30.95)

Gerald Durrell The Whispering Land, Travel Narrative Guidebook | 2014 | PAPER | 224 pages

A sparkling account of an eight-month jaunt on the trail of fur seals, guanaco, parrots and other Patagonian marvels. Excellent family reading. ($17.00)

Nick Caistor Buenos Aires, A Cultural Guide Guidebook | 2014 | PAPER | 224 pages

This cultural guide looks at the history of Buenos Aires, examining how culture over time has shaped the city. (BZL130, $17.00)

Bruce Chatwin In Patagonia Travel Narrative | 1989 | PAPER | 204 pages | Favorite

A masterpiece of travel, history and adventure, this award-winning book captures the spirit of the land, history, wildlife and people of Patagonia. There is no travel writer as engaging, insightful and just plain wonderful as Bruce Chatwin. ($13.00)

Zagier & Urruty Maps Los Glaciares National Park Reference | 2004 | MAP | 1 page

A colorful map of the popular areas of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares at a scale of 1:230,000, providing an overview of the area and highlighting points of interest. ($21.95)

Wayne Bernhardson Moon Handbook Patagonia Guidebook | 2014 | PAPER | 550 pages

A practical guide in the Moon series, packed not only with travel necessities (hotels, restaurants, sights), but also with a good overview of history and destinations throughout Patagonia. ($21.99)

Eyewitness Guides DK Eyewitness Top Ten Buenos Aires Guidebook | 2015 | PAPER | 128 pages

A compact, illustrated guide in the popular series, featuring favorite attractions. ($14.00)

Marcelo D. Beccaceci Natural Patagonia, Argentina and Chile Natural History | 1999 | PAPER | 124 pages

An informative photographic journey through the breathtaking landscapes and wildlife of Patagonia. Featuring 120 color photographs, presented in Spanish and English. ($24.95)

Jason Wilson Buenos Aires, A Cultural History History | 2000 | PAPER | 249 pages

An exhilarating, erudite guide to Buenos Aires as it has been portrayed by writers, poets and thinkers, with a street map and detailed neighborhood descriptions. ($15.00)

Martin D. la Pena, Maurice Rumboll Birds of Southern South America and Antarctica Field Guide | 2001 | PAPER | 224 pages

With color plates, range maps and brief descriptions, this is a compact regional guide. ($21.95)

Alvaro Jaramillo Birds of Chile Field Guide | 2003 | PAPER | 240 pages

This compact, comprehensive guide with superb color plates also includes Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falkland Islands. ($35.00)

Sharon Chester A Wildlife Guide to Chile Field Guide | 2008 | PAPER | 392 pages

Chester's splendid guide, featuring 120 color plates, covers the wildlife, plants and natural history of Chile from the Atacama Desert and Patagonia to Easter Island and Antarctica. ($22.95)

Cesar Aira Shantytown Literature | 2013 | PAPER | 128 pages

The Argentine modernist turns to noir in this inventive short crime novel set in the slums of Buenos Aires. (ARG130, $13.95)

Antoine de Saint Exupery Night Flight Literature | 1986 | PAPER | 87 pages

Saint Exupery captures the thrill and mystery of early flight in this tale of a pilot alone in a storm over the Andes en route to Buenos Aires. ($12.95)

Jill Gibian (Editor) Argentina, A Traveler's Literary Companion Literature | 2010 | PAPER | 256 pages

These choice stories introduce the landscapes and culture of Argentina, from the Andes to the Pampas, through the eyes of its writers. ($14.95)

Sara Wheeler Travels in a Thin Country, A Journey through Chile Travel Narrative | 1996 | PAPER | 304 pages

British author Sara Wheeler deploys her wit, intelligence and powerful investigative skills on the Republic of Chile in this insightful travelogue. ($18.00)

W.H. Hudson Far Away and Long Ago Biography/Memoir | 2006 | PAPER | 338 pages

Hudson's enthralling childhood remembrances are rich with descriptions of the landscapes, birds and nature of Argentina. ($12.95)

Nicholas Fraser Evita, The Real Life of Eva Peron Biography/Memoir | 1996 | PAPER | 222 pages

Separating fact from myth, Fraser traces Evita’s life from her humble origins to her place as a revered cult figure, also exploring Peronism and Argentine politics of the 1930s and 1940s. ($15.95)

Zagier & Urruty Maps Torres del Paine Map Reference | 2008 | MAP | 1 page

This detailed walking map (1:80,000) includes trekking routes, refuges and color topography. ($11.95)

ITMB Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego Map Reference | 2015 | MAP | 1 page

This handy map shows all Patagonia on one side (1:2,000,000), with a more detailed map of Tierra del Fuego (1:750,000) on the reverse. ($12.95)

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Traveling Without a Passport

Patagonia Travel Guide

From majestic mountain peaks to winding waterways, explore Patagonia’s boundless beauty. Here’s the definitive Patagonia travel guide

How far would you go to escape from it all? Would you venture to “the end of the world?” One of South America’s most iconic regions, Patagonia’s rugged terrain offers a full range of adventures, from exploring glaciers to traversing mountain ranges, to kayaking pristine waterways. Untouched by the trappings of modern-day life, we recommend these three adventures in a region renowned as “the end of the world.” Here’s the definitive Patagonia travel guide.

Perito Moreno Glacier

Patagonia is famous for its breathtaking landscapes, including vast glaciers, ancient fjords, and some of the highest mountain ranges in the world so it’s no wonder adventurers want to travel to Patagonia. Perhaps the most renowned of Patagonia’s outdoor destinations is the Perito Moreno Glacier, a massive expanse of ice estimated to be 18,000 years old—and still on the move!

Accessing the glacier begins in El Calafate, a bucolic town that serves as the gateway to Glacier National Park. From here, adventurers pass through the visitor center, which serves as a jumping off point for travel in Patagonia to the various trails and pathways leading to the frozen giant known as Perito Moreno.

As you wander along the boardwalks that hug the glacier, you’ll find yourself in awe of its otherworldly form, contemplating the behemoth that stands before you, extending 19 miles (30km) in length and standing almost 200 feet (60m) in height. Lucky visitors may also witness sheets of ice, some as large as commercial aircraft, breaking off the glacier’s façade and crashing into the sea with a thunderous boom.

If you prefer to kick the intensity up a notch and scale the glacier itself, we recommend booking a glacier trekking tour with a Patagonia travel guide. They can provide you with the equipment and expertise required to safely tackle this challenge.

See Also: Perito Moreno Glacier Tours in Patagonia

Visit a Penguin Colony

Head to Puerto Madryn on Patagonia’s northeastern coast, where the arid landscapes meet the vibrant marine ecosystem of the Atlantic Ocean. But seriously, go for the penguins!  The highlight here is Punta Tombo, South America’s largest Magellanic penguin colony.

Along the peninsula, you’ll find tens of thousands of these happy little creatures nesting and frolicking along the shoreline. The waters of Puerto Madryn also serve as a crucial breeding ground for southern right whales, sea lions, and elephant seals.

After a long day of immersing yourself in marine life, retire to the town of Gaiman, a charming enclave settled by Welsh immigrants over 200 years ago. Warm yourself in its tea houses, indulge in Welsh pastries, and explore this one-of-a-kind hamlet where Welsh traditions and Patagonian hospitality converge.

Hiking in El Chaltén

Imagine hiking leisurely through an idyllic Andean valley and reconnecting with nature, along the way. You can have this all when you travel to Patagonia. Check out the town of El Chaltén. A top-rated hiking destination, El Chaltén serves as a base for numerous excursions to the region’s myriad lakes, mountains, and forests. The most popular of these is a day trip to Laguna de los Tres, meaning “Lake of the Three,” named after the three towering peaks that overlook it – Mount FitzRoy, Cerro Torre, and Mount Poincenot. With its deep turquoise color, we highly recommend unpacking a lunch at the base of the lake and savoring one of the most spectacular views in the world. This is what makes travel to Patagonia so worthwhile.

See Also: Patagonia Hiking Tours

Kayaking Patagonia

For those seeking their thrills on the water, Patagonia also has plenty to offer. One of the region’s most scenic kayaking tours takes you down the Rio de las Vueltas, or The Meandering River. Starting north of El Chaltén, in Desert Lake, kayakers paddle south, witnessing the dramatic shifts in landscape from lush lenga forests to snow-capped mountain passes, eventually culminating in majestic views of the three peaks—Mount FitzRoy, Cerro Torre, and Mount Poincenot. Guided by torrent ducks, white-throated condors, and red foxes along the way, you’ll wind down the river, knowing you’ve reached “the end of the world,” wondering why you didn’t get there sooner.

Hiking the W Circuit

Patagonia’s status as a hiker’s paradise is world-renowned. Among the hiking trails on every outdoor enthusiasts’s bucket list is the legendary W Circuit, located in Torres del Paine National Park. A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Torres del Paine National Park lies nestled between the Andes Mountains and the Patagonian Steppe. The region is home to towering granite peaks, shimmering glacial lakes, and sweeping grasslands that form a canvas of unparalleled beauty.

The W Circuit leads trekkers through the heart of the park, offering breathtaking views of the Paine Massif, Grey Glacier, and Valle Frances—three of the park’s most renowned destinations. The diverse ecosystems within the park also harbor a variety of wildlife, including guanacos, foxes, and elusive pumas. 

When faced with choosing the three-day route or the five-day route, we say hang around for a while. After all, you’ve reached the end of the world—take a deep breath, unwind, and savor this extraordinary moment.”

Weather in Patagonia

Patagonia’s summer takes place from December to February, providing the most favorable conditions for outdoor activities. During the day, high temperatures average 57°F (14° C), while evening temperatures average 41° (5°C). Summer is also the season with the least amount of precipitation for Patagonia travel. However, summer is also the region’s peak season, so be aware that travel in Patagonia can become more intense. For those willing to trade cooler temperatures for smaller crowds, we recommend exploring Patagonia in autumn, when fewer crowds and a more intimate travel experience await.

See Also: 250+ Patagonia Tours

Jehangir Irani

I'm a writer, photographer, and video journalist based in Berlin, Germany. I previously worked in NYC for 12 years as a photojournalist and documentarian. Patagonia tops my travel bucket list.

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Travel ideas for Chile, created by local experts

11 days  / from 4896 USD

Luxurious Chile - Atacama Desert & Easter Island

Explore two of Chile's extraordinary highlights: the Atacama desert with its salt flats and lagoons and Easter Island. The island is famous for its stone monoliths and source of mystery for many. Your stay will be complemented in the best hotels, making this trip even more special.

10 days  / from 2650 USD

Chile Explored: From Santiago to Torres del Paine

The vast expanse of Patagonia is home to extreme landscapes, from jagged mountains, stark glaciers, clear blue lakes, and grassy fields. You will find them all in Torres del Paine, a huge contrast to the start of the trip in the historical, bustling city of Santiago.

14 days  / from 3800 USD

Self-Drive Santiago, Wines & Lakes

Discover the beauty of Chile independently in your own rental car. Start in Santiago before heading to Pucon, Huilo Huilo and Puerto Varas. As you'll be in your own car, you can plan each day at your liking - hikes, relaxing or cultural exploration? Decide spontaneously.

13 days  / from 3180 USD

From Chile to Argentina, across the Andean Lakes

Travel from Chile to Argentina across the stunning Andean Lakes, also known as the Lakes District. Beginning in Santiago, you will travel to Puerto Varas, in Chile, and then across the lakes to Bariloche, Argentina, taking in the stunning mountain scenery, before ending your trip in Buenos Aires.

16 days  / from 5050 USD

Andean Triangle - Chile, Bolivia and Argentina

Start your South American adventure in Santiago de Chile before exploring the wonders of the Atacama desert. A short hop across the border and you'll find yourself in the middle of the Bolivian salt flat. Afterwards, you'll continue to Argentina with Salta and Buenos Aires.

13 days  / from 6800 USD

Wild Patagonia

Argentina has lots to offer its visitors: a glacier the size of a city, sizzling tango, fashionable barrios, artisan towns, ranches with horses and gauchos and wild untamed natural beauty. From Buenos Aires to Patagonia, you’ll get to see it all in this adventure-laden vacation.

• Northern Patagonia

From Puerto Montt, the Carretera Austral, or “Southern Highway”, stretches over 1000km south through the wettest, greenest, wildest and narrowest part of Chile, ending its mammoth journey at the tiny settlement of Villa O’Higgins. Carving its path through tracts of untouched wilderness, the route takes in soaring, snowcapped mountains, Ice Age glaciers, blue-green fjords, turquoise lakes and rivers, and one of the world’s largest swaths of temperate rainforest. Most of it falls into Aysén, Chile’s “last frontier”, the final region to be opened up in the early twentieth century. A hundred years on, Aysén remains very sparsely populated, and still has the cut-off, marginal feel of a pioneer zone.

Parque Nacional Alerce Andino

Parque nacional pumalín douglas r. tompkins, the futaleufú valley, parque nacional queulat, around lago general carrera, south of lago general carrera, southern patagonia, parque nacional torres del paine, parque nacional los glaciares, what to see in northern patagonia.

With the 2008 eruption of the Chaitén volcano now in the past, you can once again begin your exploration of the region from the north. Leaving Puerto Montt, you can travel through both Parque Nacional Alerce Andino and Parque Nacional Hornopirén, before taking the boat over to Caleta Gonzalo, where the Carretera cuts a passage through virgin temperate rainforest in the private nature reserve of Parque Pumalín, and finally emerging in the volcano-ravaged town of Chaitén.

South along the Carretera from Chaitén is the nondescript settlement of Villa Santa Lucía. From here, one branch of the road heads east, to the border village of Futaleufú, the pre-eminent centre for whitewater rafting. Continuing south, the Carretera emerges at the Parque Nacional Queulat, whose extraordinary hanging glacier and excellent trails make for one of the most rewarding places to get off the road. Don’t miss the chance to luxuriate in the secluded hot pools of the luxurious Termas de Puyuhuapi.

The main town of Coyhaique marks the centre of the Carretera; to the west, Puerto Chacabuco is the principal starting point for boat excursions to the sensational Laguna San Rafael glacier. To the south, the road loops around South America’s second-largest lake, Lago General Carrera, while the final stretch of the Carretera connects the little town of Cochrane to the isolated hamlet of Villa O’Higgins, with a road branching off to the unusual settlement of Caleta Tortel.

Brief history of Northern Patagonia

The original inhabitants of this rain-swept land were the nomadic, hunter-gatherer Tehuelche of the interior, and the canoe-faring Alcalufe, who fished the fjords and channels of the coast, though now only a handful of the latter remain. In 1903, the government initiated a colonization programme that ultimately handed over thousands of hectares of land to three large livestock companies. At the same time, a wave of individual pioneers – known as colonos – came down from the north to try their luck at logging and farming, resulting in massive deforestation and destruction of the natural environment.

Faced with Argentina’s encroaching influence, the government set out to actively “Chileanize” this new zone. Over the years, the perceived need for state control of the region did not diminish, explaining the rationale behind the construction of the Carretera Austral, initiated by earlier governments but with the greatest progress achieved under General Pinochet. Building the road was a colossal and incredibly expensive undertaking: the first section was finished in 1983 and engineers completed the final 100km in 2000, from tiny Puerto Yungay to the frontier outpost of Villa O’Higgins, by the Argentine border.

Northern Patagonia today

In spite of the Carretera Austral, the settlements in Northern Patagonia still have a frontier feel to them and the people who live here reflect the area’s intrepid settler spirit. Their resourcefulness allows them to overcome major natural disasters, such as volcanic eruptions, and every spring, they celebrate their huaso (cowboy) heritage in a series of rodeos, pitting their equestrian skills against one another.

Heading out of Puerto Montt, the Carretera Austral hugs the shore of the Reloncaví fjord, skirting wide mudflats and empty beaches. Some 40km down the road – just beyond the Puente de Lenca – a signed track branches left and leads 7km to the southern entrance of Parque Nacional Alerce Andino, also known as “Chile’s Yosemite”, where you’ll find a small Conaf hut, a ranger station and a camping area. The park was created in 1982 to protect the region’s ancient and rapidly depleting alerce forests, threatened with extinction by intense logging activity. Almost 200 square kilometres – half the park’s land area – are covered by the massive, millenia-old alerces , mixed in with other native species like coigüe and lenga. This dense covering is spread over a landscape of steep hills and narrow glacial valleys dotted with dozens of lakes.

Alerce trees

The famed alerce trees – accorded national monument status by the government in 1976 – are endemic to southern Chile and Argentina and grow in high, soggy soil, usually on mountainsides between 600m and 800m above sea level. Among the largest and oldest trees in the world, they can rise to a height of 45m, with a trunk diameter of up to 4m, and live for over three thousand years. After shooting up rapidly during their first hundred years, they slow down dramatically, their diameter increasing just 1mm every three years. As they grow, they lose their lower branches, keeping only their top crown of dark-green, broccoli-like leaves. The lighter, lower leaves belong to parasite trees, which often prove useful to the ancient alerces , supporting them when they topple and keeping them alive. The trees’ grey, papery bark conceals a beautiful, reddish-brown and extremely valuable wood; a large tree is worth tens of thousands of dollars. In the late-nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, the trees were chopped down at random by early colonizers – sometimes to be used for telegraph poles or shingles, but often just to clear land which was later found to be useless for agriculture. Today, it’s illegal to chop down an alerce owing to their protected status, but it’s not forbidden to sell the wood of dead trees.

The sheltered, sandy cove of La Arena lies 13km south of the turn-off to Parque Nacional Alerce Andino; it’s the departure point of a ferry. After the thirty-minute crossing, the ferry lands at tiny Caleta Puelche, from where the road winds through 58km of thickly forested hills, before arriving at the village of Hornopirén. Here you catch a Naviera Austral ferry to Caleta Gonzalo, where the Carretera continues.

Perched on the northern shore of a wide fjord, at the foot of Volcán Hornopirén, the village enjoys a spectacular location and makes a good stop en route to the rest of the Carretera Austral.

“Doing” the Carretera Austral

“Doing” the Carretera Austral requires a certain amount of forward planning, and time should always be allowed for unexpected delays. In peak season, the villages are covered by a combination of minibuses, ferries and even local flights, but outside the summer months the services drop right off, barring the regular long-distance flights connecting Coyhaique to the rest of Chile. Cyclists will need to carry all necessary spare parts and supplies, because of the challenging road conditions and absence of bike shops (barring Coyhaique).

Parque Nacional Volcán Hornopirén

To the east of Hornopirén unfold the 500 square kilometres of protected wilderness that make up Parque Nacional Volcán Hornopirén. The park’s namesake and centrepiece, 16km along a muddy track from the village, is the perfectly conical Volcán Hornopirén. Five kilometres further along the track lies the seldom-visited Lago General Pinto Concha, with excellent fishing and stunning views onto the 2111m Volcán Yate (1hr hike one-way). From Lago General Pinto Concha, another track leads to the base of Volcán Yate (2hr hike one-way).

Back towards the village, a turn-off from the track leads south around the end of the fjord to a modern bridge over the Río Blanco, with a short trail to your left leading up to the impressive Salto del Río Blanco waterfall. A well-defined 8km path follows the river upstream, passing through alternating patches of pastureland and grandstands of alerce , coigüe , tepa and lenga ; above the tree line, you’ll enter a landscape of ice-covered peaks and glaciers, making this a great day-hike.

South of Hornopirén, connected to it by two ferries, lies Parque Nacional Pumalín Douglas R. Tompkins , formerly the world’s largest privately-owned conservation area, covering 2900 square kilometres of land, and as of January 2018 one of Chile’s newest national parks. The Pumalín Project, founded by North American billionaire philanthropist Doug Tompkins to protect one of the world’s last strongholds of temperate rainforest, originally generated a considerable amount of controversy, yet few would deny today that the park represents a magnificent environmental achievement. It’s a place of overwhelming natural beauty, with calm lakes reflecting stands of endangered alerce trees, ferocious waterfalls gushing through chasms of dark rock and high, snowy-peaked mountains. The park consists of three sectors; the southern sector is the most visited.

On May 2, 2008, Volcán Chaitén, at the foot of which nestles its namesake town, erupted for the first time in more than nine thousand years, taking the local residents completely by surprise. Chaitén, and much of the surrounding area, had to be evacuated as the 30km plume of ash and steam from the volcano affected the local water sources and a mudslide caused floods that devastated the town. Chaitén has been rebuilt since (though several eerie, wrecked houses half-buried in volcanic detritus have been left standing off Calle Río Blanco as a macabre outdoor museum) and is a useful transport hub and a good base for visiting Parque Nacional Pumalín Douglas R. Tompkins.

The 80km trip up the Futaleufú Valley is one of the most enjoyable diversions off the Carretera Austral. Heading east from the drab crossroads settlement of Villa Santa Lucía, south of Chaitén, you first skirt the southern shore of Lago Yelcho for 30km, before arriving at a fork in the road. The right turn goes to the quiet border village of Palena, while the left branch follows the turquoise Río Futaleufú for 17km through towering gorges, lush forests and snow-streaked mountain peaks to its namesake town.

Sitting on the Río Futaleufú, near its confluence with the Rio Espolón, and surrounded by forested, snowy peaks, Futaleufú more than earns the grandiose slogan – “ A landscape painted by God ” – coined by its early inhabitants. With its big “explosion waves” and massive “rodeo holes”, the Río Futaleufú is regarded by many professional rafters and kayakers as one of the most challenging whitewater rivers in the world, with sections of the river known as “Hell” and “The Terminator”. A number of Chilean and US operators offer rafting trips down the river, a body of water which runs through a basalt gorge known as the Gates of Hell, and boasts over forty class IV–V rapids.

An attractive little town, Futaleufú serves as a popular summer base primarily for rafting, though there is still a shadow hanging over it in the form of the Spanish energy corporation Endesa, which has plans to construct a dam and to build a hydroelectric plant on the river; the plan currently faces concerted opposition by locals, tour operators and environmentalists.

Most people come to Futaleufú for the whitewater rafting and kayaking, though you needn’t stop there: the area around Futa lends itself to a range of outdoor activities, including hiking, horse trekking, mountain biking, fly-fishing, floating (drifting down a river on an inner tube) down the tamer Río Espolón, canyoning (abseiling down canyons) and canoeing. A number of experienced local outfits offer these activities.

With stunning, rugged scenery and its namesake hanging glacier, Parque Nacional Queulat is one of the region’s biggest attractions. Located south of La Junta, it features a vast expanse of virgin forest, towering granite peaks and rumbling glaciers, and is divided into three sectors. The Carretera Austral enters the park’s northern boundary 15km north of the village of Puyuhuapi and crosses its southern limit 55km further south, just beyond the Portezuelo de Queulat pass. The park’s main entrance lies 2.5km along a signposted turn-off from the Carretera Austral, 22km south of Puyuhuapi.

Sector Ventisquero Colgante

By far the most popular sight in the park and accessible from the park’s main entrance, is the incredible Ventisquero Colgante, or “hanging glacier”. Wedged between two peaks, forming a V-shaped mass of blue-white ice, the glacier indeed seems to hang suspended over a sheer rock face. Long fingers of ice feed two thundering waterfalls that plummet 150m down to a glacial lake. From the parking area by the Centro de Información Ambiental, follow the signposted 250m Sendero Miradór Panorámico to a spectacular viewpoint. If you cross the suspension bridge over the river and turn right, you will find the 600m Sendero Laguna Témpanos, which leads to its namesake lake through dense native forest, from where you get excellent views of the glacier.

Left of the bridge, the steep Sendero Ventisquero Colgante climbs 3.2km to a higher viewpoint. Another trail, the 6km Sendero Valle Río Ventisqueros, starts at the same car park and follows the southern bank of the Río Ventisquero Valley, passing through evergreen forest and numerous viewpoints overlooking the Ventisquero Colgante before ending up at a beautiful beach. Allow five hours for a return trip and consult the rangers regarding trail conditions.

Termas de Puyuhuapi

The luxurious thermal baths, lodge and spa at Termas de Puyuhuapi enjoy a fantastic location, marooned on the edge of a peninsula on the opposite side of the fjord from the Carretera Austral. You don’t need to be an overnight guest to visit, but you should phone ahead to book.

The thermal baths used to be a handful of ramshackle cabins that were transformed into a series of low-lying, beautifully designed buildings made of reddish-brown alerce timber and lots of glass by the East German shipbuilding magnate Eberhard Kossman in the late 1980s. Apart from its spectacular location, the main reason to come here is to soak in the steaming hot springs, channelled into three outdoor pools reached by a short walk through the forest. Two of the pools are large enough to swim in, and sit right on the edge of the fjord, while the third one, containing the hottest water, is a small pond enclosed by overhanging ferns and native trees. There’s a state-of-the-art spa, specializing in a range of treatments and massage, whirlpools, a gym with an excellent view, a large indoor pool, a cold water pool, a children’s pool and two Jacuzzis.

After the smattering of small villages scattered along the Carretera Austral, Aysén’s lively regional capital, Coyhaique, can be a welcome change. The city’s fifty thousand inhabitants make up half the region’s population, and it’s the only place along the Carretera that offers a wide range of services, from pharmacies and banks to laundries and car-rental outlets. It’s also a good launchpad for some great day-trips.

Laguna San Rafael

From Coyhaique, a paved section of the Carretera Austral runs west towards the coast, to the former port of Puerto Aysén, 65km away – a small town you have to pass through on the way to the even more nondescript Puerto Chacabuco, the gateway to Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael. From Puerto Chacabuco, a 200km boat ride through the labyrinthine fjords of Aysén brings you to the dazzling San Rafael glacier, spilling into the broad Laguna San Rafael. The journey is a spectacle in itself, as boats edge their way through channels hemmed in by precipitous cliffs dripping with vegetation, passing the odd sea lion colony along the way. After sailing down the long, thin Golfo de Elefantes, the boat enters the seemingly unnavigable Río Témpanos, or “Iceberg River”, before emerging into the Laguna San Rafael. Floating in the lagoon are dozens of icebergs, fashioned by wind and rain into monumental sculptures, with such a vibrant electric-blue colour that they appear to be lit from within.

San Rafael glacier

Sailing around icebergs akin to icy phantoms, you approach the giant San Rafael glacier at the far end of the lagoon. Over 4km wide, and rearing out of the water to a height of 70m, it really is a dizzying sight. While the cruise boat keeps at a safe distance, you’ll be given the chance to get a closer look from an inflatable motor dinghy – but not too close, as the huge blocks of ice that calve off into the water with a deafening roar create dangerous waves. What you can see from the boat is in fact just the tip of the glacier’s “tongue”, which extends some 15km from its source.

The glacier is retreating fast, however, frequently by as much as 100m a year. Early explorers reported that in 1800 the glacier-filled three-quarters of the lagoon, and archive photographs from the beginning of the twentieth century show it as being far longer than it is today. It is estimated that by the year 2030, the glacier will be gone.

Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael

Almost half of the 4.2 million-acre Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael is covered by the immense ice field known as the Campo de Hielo Norte; it feeds eighteen other glaciers on top of the San Rafael Glacier and contains over 250 lakes and lagoons. The 4058-metre Monte San Valentín, the highest peak in the southern Andes, towers over the frozen plateau. A handful of visitors who opt to fly over the glacier touch down here with barely enough time to take the 7km trail from the Conaf guardería to a breathtaking viewpoint platform over the sprawling, icy tongue (allow around 2hr up and slightly less coming down).

Just beyond the southern boundary of Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo , a 31km side road shoots southeast from the Carretera Austral to the tiny village of Puerto Ibáñez, on the northern shore of Lago General Carrera. This lake, encircled by rocky, sharp-peaked mountains, is the second-largest in South America, and stretches east into Argentina.

Regular ferries connect Puerto Ibáñez with the sunny, cherry-growing town of Chile Chico, on the opposite shore, making this an attractive alternative to following the Carretera Austral around the lake. From Chile Chico, a 128km road skirts the lake’s southern shore, joining the Carretera just beyond the village of Puerto Guadal.

South of the great lake, a gravel road winds its way along the river towards Cochrane, the last settlement of any size and the gateway to the Reserva Nacional Tamango. Beyond Cochrane, the road snakes its way through a dense carpet of evergreens and giant nalca. After just over 100km south, you come to the embarcadero de Río Vagabundo, the launching spot for boats to the tiny, remote hamlet of Caleta Tortel, also reachable by the gravel road that forks west from the Carretera. Further south, at Puerto Yungay, a car ferry crosses Fiordo Mitchell and a precarious road leads to the Carretera’s final stop – tiny Villa O’Higgins.

The last major stop on the Carretera Austral, the ranching settlement of Cochrane lies 50km south of Puerto Bertrand. The town’s paved, orderly grid of streets spreading out from the neat Plaza de Armas, and array of limited services, make this a prime spot to rest up after the wildness of the Carretera Austral.

Caleta Tortel

Visitors fall in love with Tortel as soon as they see this scattering of houses on forested slopes surrounding a pale emerald bay. Located at the mouth of the Río Baker between the northern and southern ice fields and a logging spot for a lumber company, Tortel soon grew into a scattered settlement of quaint wooden houses, each with its own jetty and linked by a network of walkways and bridges made of fragrant cypress (slippery when wet). There are no streets here, and even the fire engine is a boat. Tortel is in some ways more isolated than the rest of the settlements along the Carretera Austral; there is only one direct phone line to the municipality, with extensions to everywhere else, though landlines are coming soon.

Within easy reach of Tortel by boat are two glaciers: Ventisquero Steffens, which originates in the northern ice field (3hr north by boat), and Ventisquero Jorge Montt, an enormous bluish ice-wall that comes from the southern ice field (5hr by lancha; 2hr by motorboat), best done in a group, as the trip is charged per vessel.

Villa O’Higgins

Tiny Villa O’Higgins was built on a simple grid, with the Carretera Austral running along the western side all the way down to the Bahía Bahamondez on the enormous glacial Lago O’Higgins, 7km away.

Most of the earliest settlers – who came at the beginning of the twentieth century, when it was most easily accessible from Argentina – were British. The first Chilean settlers did not arrive until the 1920s, and the town wasn’t officially founded and given its present name until 1966. Until 1999, this cluster of wooden houses huddled against a sheer mountain face was reachable only by a small prop plane from Coyhaique or by boat from Argentina but is now on the verge of being connected to Argentina’s Ruta 40, which will make travel between the two countries considerably easier if you have your own vehicle. Cosmopolitan Villa O’Higgins is not, but it is a triumphant finishing point for cyclists “doing” the Carretera Austral, as well as a springboard for reaching some of the area’s more remote glaciers.

Argentina the hard way: the El Chaltén crossing

The crossing between Villa O’Higgins and Argentina’s El Chaltén is still remote and challenging, yet more and more hardy travellers are prepared to take the boat, followed by a strenuous hike over the border and then another lake crossing. The sixty-passenger Quetru, connected to Villa O’Higgins by a private minibus run by the owner of El Mosco, leaves Bahía Bahamóndez at 8.30am and arrives at the hamlet of Candelario Mancilla at around 11am. Just beyond the dock a signposted dirt track leads uphill from the main dirt road to the only accommodation option – a campsite with no facilities apart from drinking water obtained from a stream and two or three basic rooms available in the owner’s house. Get your passport stamped by Chilean border control further up the main road before you set off for Argentina.

To the border

Beyond, a gravel road winds uphill through patches of woodland to the international border; on the way, you will have to ford the shallow, glacial Río Obstáculo. Beyond the border, marked by signs welcoming you into Chile and Argentina, the 7.5km stretch of trail to the Argentine Gendarmería on the banks of the Lago del Desierto becomes a narrow, muddy footpath snaking its way through hilly forest and scrubland; cyclists have to push and sometimes carry their bikes. After getting stamped into Argentina, you can either pitch a tent at Camping Lago del Desierto, stay in the basic cabaña run by the gendarmes, catch the motor launch Viedma across the lake or hike the remaining 15km along a steep, thickly forested path on the left side of the lake, emerging at the guardería by the pier on the south side.

Minibuses to El Chaltén meet the arriving motor launches. While it is possible to complete the border crossing in a day, particularly if coming the other way from El Chaltén to Villa O’Higgins (since the last part of the hike is all downhill), boat schedules are weather-dependent, so you must pack enough food for several days. To book a guide and packhorses, visit villaohiggins.com. Rumours abound that there are plans to build a road on the Argentinian side to connect it to the border, perhaps as early as 2013, so the time to do the crossing is now.

Patagonia lies tucked away right at the southernmost tip of the Americas – indeed of the world’s landmass, not counting Antarctica. While the very name holds a fascination for many travellers, the reality can be harsh: the place is cursed by a persistent wind, the Escoba de Dios (God’s Broom); trees grow horizontally here, sculpted by the gales; winters are long and summers short. Geographically ill-defined, “Patagonia” usually refers to the narrow triangle of land south of a line between Puerto Montt, in Chile, and Argentina’s Península Valdés, while in Chile the term is usually reserved for Southern Patagonia, where the Andes take a last, dramatic breath before plunging into the ocean.

What to see in Southern Patagonia

While much of Argentine Patagonia is flat rolling pampa, the land rises in the western sliver of land shared by both countries; it is said that people on both sides of the border think of themselves as Patagonians first, and Chileans or Argentinians second, united by a common ranching culture that has long been in decline. These days, large numbers of Chileans and non-Chilean visitors alike come to Patagonia not to farm but to hike – in the country’s most famous and stunning national park, Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, a massif crowned with otherworldly granite towers, and accessed from the superbly located gateway town of Puerto Natales . Others come to follow in the footsteps of the region’s famous travellers: navigator Ferdinand Magellan, naturalist Charles Darwin and author Bruce Chatwin; to gaze at the region’s many spectacular glaciers; or to visit the penguin colonies from the lively provincial capital of Punta Arenas – a port city sitting on the shore of the stormy Magellan Strait.

Since the whole of this region is physically cut off from the rest of Chile by two vast ice caps, the only links with territory to the north are by air, water or through Argentina. The last option allows you to visit traditional estancias and some of Argentina’s finest landscapes, including the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, where the Fitz Roy Massif, near the tiny town of El Chaltén, offers incredible hiking and climbing opportunities, while Glaciar Perito Moreno, accessible from the tourist hub of El Calafate, is visually arresting, not to mention the most accessible of all South American glaciers.

Brief history of Southern Patagonia

Chilean Patagonia, the site of the some of the continent’s oldest human habitation, was originally populated by Tehuelche hunter-gatherers, who stalked roaming guanacos in the interior, and the sea-faring Kawéscar who dove naked for shellfish in the frigid waters around the southern fjords. The first European to discover the area was Ferdinand Magellan, a Portuguese navigator who sailed through the strait now bearing his name. Spanish colonization attempts failed catastrophically and no European tried to settle the place again for another two hundred and fifty years.

The voyages of the Beagle, from 1826 to 1834, the second one bearing young Charles Darwin, renewed interest in the area, prompting continued Chilean and Argentine attempts to colonize the area. In the 1870s the two narrowly avoided war over the territory, not for the last time. From 1849, Punta Arenas was boosted by sea traffic en-route to the California Gold Rush; while it didn’t last long, the introduction of sheep farming created sprawling estancias (ranches) and brought great wealth to their owners in the late nineteenth century.

Wool has now been replaced by oil, commercial salmon farming and tourism as the region’s main resources. The Chileans call the area the province of Magallanes, in the explorer’s honour; it has its own flag and is one of the least inhabited areas in Chile.

Nothing really prepares you for your first sight of Parque Nacional Torres del Paine . The Paine Massif, the unforgettable centrepiece of the park, appears beyond the turquoise lakes long before you get close to it. The finest views of the massif are from the south bank of Lago Nordenskjöld, whose waters act as a great reflecting mirror. If driving through the park, take the southern entrance to constantly have the best views in front of you.

The centrepiece is made up of the twin peaks of Cerro Monte Almirante Nieto (2668m and 2640m). On the northern side are the soaring, unnaturally elegant Torres del Paine (“Paine Towers”), the icon of the park, and further west the sculpted, dark-capped Cuernos del Paine (“Paine Horns”). To the west of the park is the broad ice river of Glaciar Grey, and on the plains at the mountains’ feet, large herds of guanacos and the odd ñandú (rhea) still run wild; you’re more likely to spot these than the park’s more elusive fauna: pumas and the rare huermúl deer.

In January and February the park is crammed with holidaymakers, so the best months to visit are October, November and December or March and April. Although in winter (June–Sept) temperatures can fall to -10°C (14°F) or even lower, freezing lakes and icing over trails, the small numbers of visitors, lack of wind and often clear visibility can also make this another good time to come – just wrap up warmly.

Hiking routes in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine

This may not be the place to taste true wilderness, but there are still plenty of places to lose the crowds. The two most popular hikes are the “W”, so-called because the route you follow looks like a “W”, up three valleys, taking you to the “stars” of the park – Las Torres, Valle del Francés and Glaciar Grey, and the “Circuit”, which leads you around the back of the park and encompasses the “W”; allow seven to ten days for the “Circuit” and at least four for the “W”.

The best way to tackle the “Circuit” is anticlockwise, as it also means you’ll have excellent views of Glacier Grey in front of you rather than behind you when you come to tackle the most challenging part of the hike – the Paso John Gardner.

It’s also best to do the “W” anti-clockwise, leaving the steepest hike to Las Torres until last, by which time you will have consumed most of your supplies. The first leg of the “W” is the hike there and back from Paine Grande Lodge to Glaciar Grey, described above. You can leave your gear at the lodge.

Beyond the W: Torres del Paine alternative hikes

There is more to Torres del Paine than just the “Circuit” and the “W”; numerous shorter hikes can be just as spectacular.

Mirador Lago Grey and Mirador Ferrier

From the Lago Grey ranger station near Hotel Lago Grey, a short trail leads through the forest to the lake’s vast windswept beach, where you can watch house-sized chunks of bluish ice bobbling on the pale waters. To the left of the beach, by the jetty, a fairly steep unmarked trail skirts around the cliff before giving you an unobstructed view of Glaciar Gray. The most spectacular viewpoint of them all, Mirador Ferrier, lies a stiff two-hour hike up from behind the ranger station. From up there, you get a jaw-dropping vista over the park’s many lakes, their colours ranging from aquamarine to greyish white. At the top, you make your way through forest before emerging among exposed rocks; bring warm clothes as the icy wind can be ferocious.

Laguna Azul

There’s a three-and-a-half-hour signposted walk from the guardería at Laguna Amarga to Laguna Azul, a secluded and little-visited lake in the northeast. From there, a mostly gentle four-hour trail leads past Laguna Cebolla to Lago Paine. It used to be possible to hike to Lago Dickson and cross the narrowest part of the lake to Refugio Dickson, but the boat is no longer functioning, though if you are on horseback, you can wade across Río Paine and continue along this trail to a viewpoint overlooking Glaciar Dickson.

Mirador Zapata

Another seldom-trod path takes you up to Mirador Zapata, a steep six-to seven-hour climb from Guardería Lago Grey at the southern tip of Lago Grey, itself a four-and-a-half-hour walk from the park administration building, rewarding you with views of the ice cap and the magnificent Glaciar Pingo. Campamento Pingo is half an hour into the trek, and Campamento Zapata an hour and a half from the mirador, making it an ideal overnight stop.

The Balmaceda and Serrano glaciers

To the northwest of the Cueva del Milodón, the Seno Ultima Esperanza continues on for about 100km until it meets the Río Serrano, which, after 36km, arrives at the Balmaceda and Serrano glaciers. A boat trip here is one of the most beautiful in the entire area. It takes seven hours and you pass a colony of cormorants and a slippery mass of sea lions. The glaciers themselves make an impressive sight, especially when a chunk of ice the size of a small house breaks off and crashes into the water. They form the southern tip of Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins, the largest and least-visited national park in the whole of Chile. The east of the park is almost entirely made up of the Campo de Hielo Sur (the Southern Ice Field); the west comprises fjords, islands and untouched forest.

The vast majority of travellers to Patagonia don’t limit themselves to the Chilean side alone. Just over the easily crossed border lies Argentina’s most spectacular national park – Parque Nacional Los Glaciares – home to two of the region’s star attractions. The first is the craggy blue face of the Glaciar Perito Moreno – regularly cited as one of the world’s natural wonders, and situated near the tourist hub of El Calafate. The second is the trekkers’ and climbers’ paradise of the Fitz Roy mountain range in the north of the park, accessed from the relaxed little town of El Chaltén.

El Calafate

Settled by wool traders in the 1920s and named after the edible purple berry that pops up on thorny bushes in summertime, El Calafate expanded rapidly following the creation of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares in 1937. The Perito Moreno glacier is the main draw for the many visitors who flood the town, which is busiest between December and March. The glacier aside, El Calafate makes an excellent base for other park-related activities: boat trips, ice trekking, visits to nearby estancias and hikes into the remotest corners of this slice of wilderness. The main drag, Avenida Libertador, is lined with tourism outfits and restaurants.

Fitz Roy Massif

The northernmost section of Argentina’s Parque Nacional Los Glaciares contains the Fitz Roy Massif, boasting some of the most breathtakingly beautiful mountain peaks on the planet. Two concentric jaws of jagged teeth puncture the Patagonian sky, with the 3445m incisor of Monte Fitz Roy at the centre.

Top image © Shutterstock

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updated 26.04.2021

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Argentina Travel Guide

Last Updated: April 29, 2024

Argentina is one of the most popular countries to visit in South America. Whether you’re backpacking the entire country or just visiting on a short holiday looking to drink wine, eat steak, and do some hiking, Argentina will not disappoint you. I love the place to death.

From the relaxed café culture of Buenos Aires to the natural beauty of the massive Iguazu Waterfalls, the stunning Perito Moreno glacier to the charming vineyards of Mendoza , Argentina is a wonderfully beautiful country with world-class landscapes to match the delicious steaks, award-winning wine, and lively and welcoming people you’ll find here.

Argentina blew away all of my expectations.

This travel guide to Argentina can help you plan your trip, stay safe, stay on a budget, and ensure you make the most of your visit here.

Note : Argentina suffers from incredible inflation and prices vary widely and increase without notice. The prices here might be accurate as of the day we publish but could be dramatically different by the time you get there. Keep that in mind as you plan your expenses.

Table of Contents

• Things to See and Do
• Typical Costs
• Suggested Budget
• Money-Saving Tips
• Where to Stay
• How to Get Around
• How to Stay Safe
• Best Places to Book Your Trip
• Related Blogs on Argentina

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Top 5 things to see and do in argentina.

1. Enjoy the culture of Buenos Aires

Nicknamed the “Paris of South America,” Buenos Aires is an amazing and fun city with a lot of culture, fantastic nightlife, food, and shopping. Stay in the trendy Palermo neighborhood and walk the tree-lined streets, visit the Museum of Latin American Art in Buenos Aires (aka MALBA), and explore Palermo Soho which has a more youthful vibe and is crammed with cool shops and boutiques.

Additionally, on the southern border of Palermo is La Recoleta Cemetery, one of the most atmospheric graveyards on the planet and home to several famous Argentines, including Eva Peron, several past presidents, patriots, poets, and other VIPs of Argentine history. El Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, the National Museum of Fine Arts, is nearby as well. Opened in 1895, the museum houses works by Goya, Monet, Rubens, Rembrandt, Van Gogh, and many other masters.

2. Marvel at Iguazu Falls

With 450,000 cubic feet of water thundering down the 275 cascades every second, it’s easy to see why this massive waterfall is so popular. The water plunges below in a powerful and sensational flurry of white water and mist with rainbows stretching above it all. The uneven cascades are also some of the tallest in the world, as they measure between 62-85 meters (210-269 feet). A sturdy wooden walkway allows visitors to wander out to get a closer, face-to-face look at the falling water. Some might remember the falls played a supporting role in the films Indian Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull, Captain America: Civil War, and The Mission, among many others.

You can find several types of guided trips leaving from Buenos Aires or just go on the local bus yourself. Stay in Argentina and get drenched on a boat ride around the falls or spring for a tour that includes Brazil on the opposite shore. The view from Brazil is arguably better, since you’re on a narrow ridge surrounded by the falls in Argentina. The entry fee for Iguazú Falls National Park on the Argentine side is 20,000 ARS.

3. Wander Salta

Located in the northwest of the country, Salta is a small city with outstanding museums, plaza-side cafes, and a lively folk music tradition. The colonial architecture of the city is well preserved here too. The most popular museum is Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montaña (MAAM), opened in 2004 for the mummies of three children sacrificed by the Inca and discovered in 1999. Don’t miss the Teleférico San Bernardo, a cable car that glides through the air to a hilltop with a gorgeous view of the whole city. A round-trip ticket for San Bernardo is 8,000 ARS.

4. Learn the tango

Argentina is famous for its national dance, the tango. You’re bound to run into it everywhere you go with people quite literally practicing in the streets. Throughout the country there are studios that offer lessons if you want to learn and free public places to watch the locals dance away. In Buenos Aires, splurge on a tango show at the historic Teatro Tabarís or Gala Tango. A more budget option is the outdoor shows in Plaza Dorrego, where the best dancers can be found every Sunday afternoon.

5. Explore Mendoza

Other things to see and do in argentina, 1. take the train to the clouds.

Sure, it’s a train built for tourists and super overpriced, but taking this train through the clouds and lush forest is so breathtaking I don’t mind. This is a 400-kilometer (250-mile), 16-hour round trip into the Andes from the town of San Antonio de los Cobres. You can buy the train ticket with the bus ride between Salta and San Antonio de los Cobres included, or via just the train. Consider buying just the train ticket so you can spend a little time checking out the Andean culture (and llamas) in San Antonio. As the train climbs to 4,200 meters (13,779 feet), you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views overlooking mountains, forests, and valleys. It only operates seasonally and on specific days of the week, so be sure to check the schedule before you go. The website only shows prices once you pick a date for the reservation.

2. Climb Cerro Aconcagua

At almost 7,000 meters tall (23,000 feet), Cerro Aconcagua is not only the country’s highest mountain but also the highest in the Western Hemisphere. This climb isn’t for the faint-hearted as it’s estimated to take a couple of weeks to acclimatize to the altitude and reach the summit. However, it’s a challenging hike, not a technical climb. Many hikers set their sights on part of the mountain, without risking the dangers of oxygen deprivation near the summit. If you love a challenge and are a practiced hiker, it’s an adventure worth considering! Due to the instability of the peso, many trekking companies post prices in USD. Guided summit hikes cost around $5,000 USD while an 8-day trek around the mountain (not to the summit but around the various camps) costs around $2,000 USD. The most popular option is a 4-day hike around the mountain, which costs $700 USD per person. Not into hiking? Nearby Los Horcones Lake is only 2,900 meters (9,514 feet) above sea level and a popular fishing destination.

3. Explore Valle de la Luna

Translated as “Valley of the Moon,” this dramatic landscape dates to the Triassic period. Winds and rain have carved the rocks into strange formations that give this place the look of a lunar landscape. Despite the arid conditions, the area is great for wildlife spotting as it’s home to foxes, owls, armadillos, condors, and guanacos. A wild cousin of the llama, guanacos will give your landscape photos a decidedly South American flair. The unique geological formations and fossil beds have earned its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Don’t miss the Museo de Sitio William Sill, built over impressive dinosaur fossils where you can watch archeologists at work.

The best way to explore the park is via a rental car. Once you have that, you can take the 25-mile circuit tour, stopping at five different points along the way, each one offering stunning sights and views of the park. The circuit should take approximately three hours. There are also hikes through the park. One of the most popular is the trek up to Cerro Morado, the tallest mountain in the park at nearly 1,900 meters (6,000 feet). The walk takes about three hours and, once at the top, offers wow-inducing views of the natural landscape below. Admission to the park is 5,000 ARS.

4. Hike on Perito Moreno Glacier

Located within the expansive Los Glaciares National Park is the impressive Perito Moreno glacier. At almost 4,570 meters (15,000 feet) wide and 61 meters (200 feet) tall, it’s one of the coolest sights I’ve ever seen. You can hike on the glacier (which is an epic experience) or walk on the metal platforms constructed a stone’s throw from the massive wall of ice. You’ll need a licensed guide, ropes, and crampons to hike on the glacier but you can take the bus from El Calafate and do the platform walk on your own. Boat rides to Perito Moreno get you even closer and can include other nearby glaciers like Spegazzini and Upsala. Depending on the season, a full-day tour including a boat ride costs around 99,000 ARS. Austral summer, from December to February, has higher prices.

5. Day trip to San Rafael

Located a few hours from Mendoza, this tiny little town is a wonderful place to see wineries. Try the local Malbecs and other reds that go perfectly with an Argentine asado. Like Mendoza, this is a great place to go on a bike ride through the picturesque vineyards. Don’t miss out on the nearby stunning Atuel Canyon, where you can go whitewater rafting in the summer. San Rafael is a charming little place to relax and slow down to enjoy the local pace of life. A bus from Mendoza to San Rafael costs 2,500 ARS for a one-way ticket.

6. Visit Ushuaia

Ushuaia is the most southerly city in the world and the largest city in Tierra del Fuego. This is a very popular town for travelers coming to the end of their South American journey, or for those traveling to Antarctica. This is the launch point for all Antarctica cruises, as the continent is only 1,100 kilometers (680 miles) away. Plan at least three days here to go hiking in the national park, walk among the penguins on Hammer Island, and try one of the local tea houses. The most popular is La Cabaña, at the foot of the Martial Glacier ski resort. If you’re there in winter, visit one of the three local ski resorts or go on a dog-sledding tour. Overall, it’s an adventure travel hub that deserves a few days before or after your other adventures.

7. Go whale watching

From June to December, whale watching season in Patagonia is at its peak as the whales make their way to the coast to mate. Whale watching is an expensive excursion, but it’s well worth it during migration time as you’re guaranteed to spot a few whales. The Valdes Peninsula is the best place to go on a tour. Only six companies are allowed to operate here so as not to disturb and overwhelm the whales. Expect to see orca, humpback, southern right whales, and blue whales. This is a remote area of Patagonia and the best place to stay nearby is Puerto Madryn. Due to the instability of the Argentine peso, most tour agencies post prices in US dollars. A full day wildlife and whale watching tour costs $145 USD.

8. Discover Quebrada de Humahuaca

The Quebrada de Humahuaca is a 155-kilometer-long (96 mile) valley carved out by the Rio Grande. The deep valley is covered in unique rock formations and has been populated for at least 10,000 years, making the area rich in ancient Incan history and culture. Visit the ancient Inca ruins at Tilcara and see just how much Andean culture still permeates the area. Explore the colonial streets and architecture of the tiny town of Humahuaca, with its bright orange mountain backdrop or walk around behind the mountain on an easy one-hour hike to see dramatic red and purple cliffs.

9. Visit Cajon del Azul

Located in El Bolson, a bohemian town near the Andes Mountains, The Blue Canyon boasts beautiful translucent turquoise waters flanked by rustic suspension bridges, alcoves, and cliffs. It’s a little more deserted than other nature reserves in Argentina, though it’s growing in popularity amongst climbers and fly fishers. If you go, it’s worth spending at least a few days in this area taking advantage of all the outdoor activities.

If you want to hike, there are a myriad of trails you can take, all of varying degrees of difficulty and length. The trails also have the most amount of refugios, or huts, than anywhere else in South America. This means you can plan a single-day trek or a multi-day hike, going from one hut to another for several days until you want to trek back to El Bolson. Before you head out on a hike, though, make sure you stop into the Mountaineering Information Office, or Oficina de Informes de Montañas, to get information about the hike you’re doing. It’s the best way to prepare for a trek here. There’s also a Tourist Information Office that should be helpful too.

10. See Casa Rosada

Dominating the Plaza de Mayo in Buenos Aires is Casa Rosada, the Office of the President and arguably the city’s most notable landmark. The distinctive pink color is said to be due to the mixing of cows’ blood into the paint, to preserve the building. First Lady and labor activist Eva Perón (aka Evita) famously addressed crowds of workers from the building’s balcony (there’s a 1996 film starring Madonna based on her life).

Easily accessible on the city’s Subte metro system, the area around the Casa Rosada is worth visiting for its colonial architecture and famed masterpiece mural by Mexican artist David Alfaro Siquieros in the Casa Rosada Museum. There are, in all, 11,000 pieces of art in the museum. Admission is free but you must register and pick a time and date for your visit.

11. Stroll La Recoleta Cemetery

It might seem a bit morbid to visit a cemetery for pleasure, but Recoleta is one of the city’s most visited attractions. The cemetery is the final resting place of many of the city’s most notable citizens, including Eva Perón and the Paz family. Also worth seeing is the tomb of Rufina Cambaceres, who was tragically buried alive according to legends. It’s open daily from 8am-6pm. Afterwards, walk along Calle Vicente Lopez on the southwest side of the cemetery. It has become one of the hotspots in Buenos Aires for micro-breweries and is a great place to rest your feet after all the walking through the cemetery.

12. Discover San Ignacio Miní

Located in San Ignacio, these 17th-century mission ruins are the most complete in Argentina, with a significant amount of carved ornamentation still visible. Constructed in the Spanish Baroque style and heavily influenced by indigenous designs, the ruins are a beautiful and distinctive reddish color. The visitor center has a lot of background information on the fascinating history of the old mission, and the ruins have interactive panels for more information as well. San Ignacio is the perfect place to stop on your way to or from Iguazú, which is only four hours away. The town is on the Paraná River, near Posadas, where you can easily hop the border to Encarnación in Paraguay. Admission is 1,000 ARS.

13. Take a dip in the Termas de Colón

Located north of Buenos Aires not far from the border with Uruguay, the hot springs here have been a hot secret with in-the-know Porteños (people from BA), for many years. There are 10 different pools to choose from, each one a different temperature and health benefits. If you have kids the Termas de Colón also features kiddie pools and various water slides. The drive from Buenos Aires takes about four hours, making this either a very long day trip or a multi-day trip to the north to relax in the charming town of Colón.

14. Attend a fútbol match at La Bombonera

Visiting the legendary soccer stadium of Boca Junior, one of Buenos Aires’ two professional teams, in the La Boca district is a local experience you won’t want to miss. If they’re playing cross-town rivals, River Plate, even better, but if you’re in town during the soccer season, go to see La Boca playing any team. It’s a lively and sometimes crazy experience. Expect to spend a couple hundred dollars on tickets if you want to see a match. There are also tours of the stadium available too, though those also aren’t cheap at around 82,000 ARS.

15. Browse for books at a world-class bookstore

In Buenos Aires’ Barrio Norte, you’ll find El Ateneo Grand Splendid. Housed in an old theater from 1919, this bookshop has plenty of remnants left over from its days in the performing arts, such as murals on the walls and ceilings, and even balconies. The books on the shelves are mostly in Spanish, though there’s a small English-language section. That said, shopping for a good read here is not really the point. Just stroll around and admire the high ceilings and ornate design of the place. It’s one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world.

  For more information on specific cities in Argentina, check out these guides:

• Mendoza Travel Guide
• Buenos Aires Travel Guide

Argentina Travel Costs

Accommodation – Hostels are widespread throughout the country. Expect to pay 15,000-30,000 ARS for a 6-8-bed dorm room in Buenos Aires, depending on the neighborhood. In smaller towns like Mendoza, expect to pay 8,000-20,000 ARS depending on amenities. Private rooms in a hostel with a shared bath are generally double the price of dorm rooms, costing 20,000-50,000 ARS per night.

Free Wi-Fi is standard and most hostels also have self-catering facilities.

Hotels cost 40,000-60,000 ARS and always include free Wi-Fi, though other perks are generally pretty limited. At a two- or three-star hotel in Argentina you can expect TV (sometimes with international channels), daily housekeeping, bathroom toiletries, and, in some cases, an in-house restaurant, to varying degrees of quality.

Airbnb no longer posts prices in Argentine pesos, but averages $20-$50 USD per night for a private room and $30-$80 for an entire apartment.

Camping is widespread all around the country (including the world-famous Patagonia region), especially near the national parks. Expect to pay around 12,000 ARS for a basic plot for two without electricity.

Food – Argentine food is a mix of Mediterranean influences: first from Spanish colonizers, and later European immigrants in the 19th and 20th centuries, especially from Italy and Spain. Empanadas, pizza, polenta, and pasta all heavily feature in Argentine cuisine.

Argentines are famous for their asado (barbeque) and tremendous consumption of beef, especially steak and ribs. Tomatoes, onions, lettuce, eggplants, squashes, and zucchini are the most common vegetables. Dulce de leche , a caramel sauce made from condensed milk, is a popular sweet.

Yerba mate is the favorite national drink. It’s a caffeinated herbal drink that is prepared in a traditional gourd. It is consumed in social settings by passing around the gourd and its accompanying metal straw.

Overall, food is fairly expensive in Argentina, especially in popular resort and outdoor adventure towns. Take advantage of eating breakfast and lunch specials to get the most out of your money. Breakfast deals go for 1,000-2,000 and usually consist of a coffee and two media lunas, which are like a bready croissant.

Lunch specials vary greatly but are generally around 3,500-4,000 ARS. Meals at a cheap cafe begin at around 2,000-3,000 ARS for a light lunch of a sandwich or salad.

In terms of street food, empanada, choripán (sausage on bread) stands, and local hole-in-the-wall burger and pizza shops are economical and tasty. Empanadas go for around 700 ARS each, choripán for 1000 ARS, and fast food pizza or burgers for around 1500-2000 ARS. Fast food (think Mcdonald’s) is around 2,000 ARS for a combo meal.

In major cities, a dish at a Chinese takeout restaurant is around 8,000 ARS, while a dish at a sit-down Indian restaurant is around 8,000-12,000.

At a nice traditional Argentinian steakhouse, expect to pay 20,000-25,000 ARS for a good steak and wine. At more casual restaurants, steaks cost around 10,000-15,000 ARS, while vegetable-based pasta dishes cost 7,000-8,000 ARS.

In terms of drinks, beer is around 3,000 ARS while a glass of wine is also 3,000 ARS. A cocktail is around 4,000-5,000 ARS and a cappuccino is 3,000 ARS.

If you’re going to grocery shop, expect to spend about 25,000-35,000 ARS per week for groceries, including bottles of wine. This gets you basic staples like rice, beans, pasta, seasonal produce, and some meat.

Backpacking Argentina Suggested Budgets

On a backpacker’s budget, expect to spend at least 31,500 ARS per day. On this suggested budget, you’re staying in a hostel dorm, eating out at the cheap food stalls, cooking most of your meals, using public transportation, limiting your drinking, and doing mostly free activities like hiking and taking free walking tours.

On a mid-range budget of at least 70,000 ARS per day, you can stay in an Airbnb, hotel, or private hostel room, enjoy a few drinks and eat out more, take the occasional taxi, and do whatever tours and activities you want, such as wine tours and dance lessons.

On an upscale budget of at least 135,000 ARS per day, you can stay in a hotel, eat out for all your meals, drink more, go hiking in Patagonia, fly between cities, and do whatever else you want to do. This is just the ground floor for luxury though. The sky is the limit!

You can use the chart below to get an idea of how much you need to budget daily, depending on your travel style. Keep in mind these are daily averages — some days you’ll spend more, some days you’ll spend less (you might spend less every day). We just want to give you a general idea of how to make your budget. Prices are in ARS.

Argentina Travel Guide: Money-Saving Tips

While Argentina’s hyperinflation works in most travelers’ favor, it makes certain things in this country more expensive. Tours, food, and alcohol add up quite a bit. There’s a lot of price instability in the country. Here are a few hacks to cut down your costs and not let inflation ruin your fun:

• Use discount cards – Student and teacher discounts can get you incredible savings. You can also use the La Nacion Club and La Nacion Premium Club Cards, associated with La Nacion Newspaper, for discounts. Every week, the La Nacion Club Card website lists participating establishments that give discounts to cardmembers. This is good for travelers spending a long time in the country as you have to sign up for the newspaper.
• Hitchhike – While not common in the north of the country, if you’re in Patagonia, you’ll see many locals and tourists alike hitchhiking, as long-distance buses in that part of the country can be very expensive and infrequent. It’s simply more convenient to hitchhike. This common way to get around is highly recommended.
• Travel off-season – March-June and September-November are the low season when you can find cheaper accommodations and enjoy fewer crowds at attractions.
• Find the cheap eats – Empanada, choripán (sausage on bread) stands, and local hole-in-the-wall burger and pizza shops are your best options for cheap eats. It’s not the healthiest food, but it’s economical and tasty!
• Rent a bike – You can rent bicycles from hostels and rental shops for around 12,00 ARS per day in most major cities. This is especially useful when you’re in Mendoza’s wine country and you’re trying to get from winery to winery.
• Bring a tent – As you start to travel south to Patagonia, accommodation costs get expensive. Hostels are often 20,000 ARS or more a night here (as opposed to as cheap as 10,000 ARS a night in Buenos Aires). Look for camping opportunities as often as possible. When you aren’t in the national parks (where you can obviously camp), many hostels let you pitch your tent for a small fee.
• Stick to wine – 2,000 ARS bottles of wine in the supermarket is a phenomenal deal. Grab a bottle, drink it up. It’s really good too!
• Pack a water bottle – The tap water here is generally safe to drink so bring a water bottle with a filter to save money and reduce your single-use plastic usage. My preferred bottle is LifeStraw as it has a built-in filter to ensure your water is always clean and safe.
• Explore the outdoors – Hiking is free, and throughout the country, you’ll find plenty of opportunities to enjoy this and other outdoor activities since Argentina is blessed with many city parks and nature reserves where you can spend the day wandering around and relaxing. (And, of course, there are a plethora of national parks where you can do multi-day treks!).
• Don’t fly domestically – Thanks to a tax on foreigners, airfare in Argentina for non-residents is quite expensive. Unless you are in a rush, don’t fly. Take the overnight buses. It’s slower but affordable (and often a lot more comfortable).
• Dance for free – If you find yourself in Buenos Aires on a Sunday, you can find free tango events in San Telmo. (On Monday nights, there’s the famous La Bomba de Tiempo, a music and dance event that is well worth the minimal price for admission.)
• Take a free walking tour – There are a number of free walking tours in major cities. They are the best way to get the lay of the land on a budget and connect with a local guide. Just remember to tip your guide at the end. Two companies to try out in the capital city are Buenos Aires Free Tour and Free Walks Buenos Aires.

Where to Stay in Argentina

Looking for budget-friendly accommodation? Here are some of my suggested places to stay in Argentina:

• Milhouse Hostel (Buenos Aires)
• Up Viamonte Hotel (Buenos Aires)
• Sabatico Travelers Hostel (Buenos Aires)
• Villaggio Hotel Boutique (Mendoza)
• Gorilla Hostel (Mendoza)
• Alto Andino Hotel (Ushuaia)
• Cruz del Sur Hostel (Ushuaia)
• Antarctica Hostel (Ushuaia)

How to Get Around Argentina

Public transportation – Buenos Aires is the only city in Argentina with a subway system (the Subte). The subway runs from 5:30am-11:30pm on weekdays, 6am-midnight on Saturdays, and 8am-10:30pm on Sundays.

Public buses are the most common way to travel within the cities. In Buenos Aires, a one-way fare is around 1,000 ARS per trip. In Mendoza, fares start at 800 ARS.

In Buenos Aires, Mendoza, and Mar del Plata you need a transit card to use the public transit, while smaller areas take cash. You can find these cards at kiosks all over the place.

Taxis – Taxis are very affordable in Argentina. Prices start around 500 ARS and go up by around 300 ARS per kilometer. That said, public transportation can usually get you anywhere you need to be so you can likely skip the taxis here.

Buses – Argentina boasts an outstanding short and long-distance bus network. It is common to have food served on board as well as Wi-Fi and alcohol on long-distance buses. For example, the ride from Buenos Aires to Mendoza takes about 14.5 hours and tickets begin at 10,000 ARS. A 10-hour trip from Bariloche to El Calafate (in Patagonia) starts from 20,000 ARS, while the bus from Buenos Aires to El Calafate is 50,000 ARS.

A “shorter” journey like Mendoza to Salta in 7 hours costs about 35,000 ARS. You can take the overnight bus and then save on accommodation since you’ll be sleeping on the bus.

To find bus routes and prices, use BusBud .

Flying – Flying around South America isn’t very cheap, and Argentina is no exception as fares are taxed highly for foreigners (it subsidizes cheap fares for residents). However, it might be worth it for you if you’re short on time as those 14-hour bus rides are not an efficient way to travel. Argentina’s two most popular airlines are Aerolíneas Argentinas (the domestic carrier) and LATAM.

You can fly from Buenos Aires to El Calafate for 340,000 ARS return, or Buenos Aires to Bariloche for 190,000 ARS return. You’ll get better deals the further out that you book your tickets.

Train – Argentina’s rail system only goes to three places: Buenos Aires, Cordoba, and Rosario. The train from Buenos Aires to Cordoba costs about 28,400 ARS. There are also train journeys aimed specifically at travelers, like the epic Train to the Clouds that begins in Salta and passes through the Andres. It’s one of the highest railways in the world. There’s also La Trochita, the Old Patagonian Express between Esquel and El Maiten for 30,000 ARS.

Hitchhike – Argentina is easy and safe for hitchhikers. You can find rides throughout the country, and Argentines are naturally curious about foreigners. There’s a good chance you’ll end up crammed into a car with an entire family! Hitchwiki has information on hitchhiking in Argentina if you want to give it a try.

When to Go to Argentina

Argentina is enormous. The best time of year to visit entirely depends on what regions you plan on traveling around.

Argentina’s spring is from September to November. This is one of the best times to visit overall (although it’s still very cold in Patagonia). Average temperatures range from 14°C (57°F) in the center, 8-14°C (46-57°F) in Patagonia, and about 20°C (68°F) in the north.

Summer is from December to February. This is the best season for spending time in the Andean mountains. It’s also the best time to travel to Tierra del Fuego, although there still might be snow. The north is a lot warmer, and Buenos Aires can get hot and sticky. Temperatures can get as high as 26°C (79°F).

Autumn (March-April) is another great time to visit, especially in the San Juan and Mendoza regions for the wine harvests. Temperatures here are 6-14°C (42-58°F). Patagonia is stunning this time of year with its bright autumn colors as well.

Winter is from June to August when temperatures dip to 8–13°C (46–55°F). This is the ideal time to visit if you’re a skier hoping to hit up the ski resorts. It’s not a great time for visiting Patagonia, however; bad weather can leave you stranded, and a lot of places are closed from Easter to October.

How to Stay Safe in Argentina

Argentina is a safe place to backpack and travel. While violent crime here is rare, petty theft and pickpocketing is on the rise so you’ll need to be vigilant. Don’t flaunt expensive jewelry or belongings while you’re out and about and always keep your wallet secure and out of reach. Cell phone theft is incredibly common and thieves sometimes literally snatch the phone right from your hand in broad daylight so be on guard and never bring your phone out in public. If you need to use it, step inside a shop just to be safe.

If taking an overnight bus, lock your bag and make sure your valuables are secure. If you rent a car, always keep it locked and never store anything in it overnight as break-ins can occur.

Female travelers should generally feel safe here, however, the standard precautions apply (don’t walk around at night intoxicated, never leave your drink unattended at the bar, etc.). Whenever possible, avoid walking around at night (especially if you’re alone). Even during the day, it’s best to walk around in groups when you can as you’ll be less of a target that way. If you’re carrying a purse, wear it across your chest so it can’t easily be snatched (a backpack is a better/safer choice, though).

When taking out money from an ATM, make sure to use a machine inside the bank so that you can safely access your money without prying eyes or people ready to rob you.

Scams here are rare, but they can occur. To avoid getting ripped off, read about common travel scams to avoid here .

Always check the weather before you go hiking and make sure you dress appropriately and bring enough water.

If you experience an emergency, dial 911 for assistance.

Always trust your gut instinct. Make copies of your personal documents, including your passport and ID.

The most important piece of advice I can offer is to purchase good travel insurance. Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. You can use the widget below to find the policy right for you:

Argentina Travel Guide: The Best Booking Resources

These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.

• Skyscanner – Skyscanner is my favorite flight search engine. They search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites tend to miss. They are hands down the number one place to start.
• Hostelworld – This is the best hostel accommodation site out there with the largest inventory, best search interface, and widest availability.
• Booking.com – The best all around booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. In all my tests, they’ve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
• Get Your Guide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions. They have tons of tour options available in cities all around the world, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, street art lessons, and more!
• SafetyWing – Safety Wing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to digital nomads and long-term travelers. They have cheap monthly plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road.
• LifeStraw – My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
• Unbound Merino – They make lightweight, durable, easy-to-clean travel clothing.
• Top Travel Credit Cards – Points are the best way to cut down travel expenses. Here’s my favorite point earning credit cards so you can get free travel!

Argentina Travel Guide: Related Articles

Want more info? Check out all the articles I’ve written on Argentina travel and continue planning your trip:

18 of the Best Spots in Patagonia

Patagonia: Thoughts on Getting Offline and Trying to Camp

12 Ways to Save Money in Argentina

16 Amazing Photos from My Visit to Torres Del Paine

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Photography Travel Guide and Map

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This is a set of Patagonia travel resources created for photographers, by a photographer. You can get access to my private Google My Maps for Patagonia, featuring more than 100 pins with images and detailed descriptions. The maps shows photography spots, parking locations, hiking trailheads and useful travel advice. Using this interactive resource, you can explore information as a mapping layer, and get directions straight to the locations featured in Google Maps.

You can also download my digital guidebook designed for photographers. It includes 85 pages of information about planning your trip to Patagonia, including hiking trails, where and when to visit, and dozens of photography spots with clear guidance and advice. It's easy to travel with on a phone, and one purchase allows you to read it on multiple devices.  The guidebook and map complement each other. The guidebook is structured to help plan your trip, with logistics information and advice on how to approach photography in Patagonia. The map overlays the information on the landscape, with additional points of interest that you can visualise on a digital map while you travel. They are available separately or as a bundle.

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I've travelled with my camera to 50 countries, and my images have sold as prints and appeared in publications around the world. The guide and map feature dozens of my best landscape, nature and wildlife photographs from Patagonia, with descriptions of how I approached the locations and captured the images.

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I'm a Travel Writer, and I Always Pack These 12 Amazon Essentials for International Trips, From $9

Shop must-have compression packing cubes, portable travel scales, and weekender bags.

Travel + Leisure / Tyler Roeland

In my years as a frequent international flier and Italian travel writer , I’ve come to learn (sometimes the hard way) that the items you pack can greatly impact your experience of being suspended some 30,000 feet in the air in a metal contraption for over six hours at a time. My biggest takeaway: it pays to be prepared. 

Through trial and error, I’ve fine-tuned my travel essentials packing list to include everything from spinner carry-on suitcases and compression packing cubes to portable luggage scales and travel adapters. The good news is that all of my favorite items can be found at Amazon, and they're starting at just $9. So without further ado, these are the 12 travel essentials I always pack to make my international flights smooth and stress-free, whether I’m traveling around the world to slake my newest destination obsession or returning home to Italy.

Gonex Compression Packing Cubes 

I never understood the hype around compression packing cubes until I tried them out for myself during a recent week-long road trip through Ireland . This bundle of four from Amazon-loved brand Gonex, in sizes ranging from S to XL, can compress a wardrobe's worth of clothes and is great for an overpacker such as me. I recently used them on a 10-day trip home to Rome and still had plenty of room left in my carry-on suitcase for shoes and toiletries. Now that I’m officially a compression packing cube believer, they come with me on every international trip. 

Travel Inspira Portable Digital Travel Scale 

Any overpacker knows the pain of reaching the airport check-in desk and having to pay an exorbitant fee for overweight luggage — believe me, I’ve had to reluctantly shell out cash more than once. As a precaution, I purchased this small portable digital scale, I haven’t paid any overweight baggage fees since (much to my wallet’s pleasure). Compact enough to pack away into a personal item, the easy-to-use scale can weigh your luggage in both pounds and kilograms. Currently on sale at Amazon for $10, it’s a handy gadget that could potentially save you hundreds of dollars at the airport.

Twelve South AirFly Bluetooth Wireless Audio Transmitter

There’s nothing quite like watching a movie on an international flight with a handful of snacks and a crisp glass of ginger ale, at least in my opinion. However, I’ve had my movie experience ruined a handful of times by the subpar earphones handed out on flights, which can never quite drone out the airplane’s engines or fit right in my ears. This traveler-loved, pocket-sized Bluetooth audio transmitter lets me connect my wireless earphones to the airplane’s seatback television, so I can enjoy crisp audio quality without any wires getting in the way. It has vastly improved my international flight experience, and at a humble $35, is worth every penny.

Samsonite Freeform Hardside Expandable Spinner Carry-on Suitcase

A sturdy carry-on suitcase is always with me whenever I travel internationally, either as my primary luggage or simply for extra space in the (probable) case my European shopping sprees get out of hand. I always make sure that my carry-on is a spinner suitcase, which I find is easier to navigate busy airports and cities with.

While I just invested in the Samsonite DLX Voltage Global spinner carry-on , you can snag this lookalike at Amazon from the same Travel + Leisure -trusted brand. It comes with smart features like expandable sides, TSA-approved locks, and an interior divider pocket. And, with 10,000-plus five-star ratings from Amazon shoppers, it’s not surprising that it’s currently the best seller in the carry-on luggage category . 

Tessan Universal Travel Adapter

A universal travel adapter is a must-have for any international trip, which is why I always have one or two on hand. This one from Tessan is one of my favorites because of its wide coverage — it can work in over 150 countries across Europe, Asia, and Oceania. Plus, it comes with four USB ports that can charge up to five devices at a time, so it’s a great option if you’re traveling with family or friends.

Although the device can be a bit bulky to pack away, I always keep one in my checked suitcase and one in my carry-on or personal item bag in case of long layovers and missed or canceled flights.

Apple AirTags 4-pack

Apple AirTags are my absolute best friends when I travel. Not only do they give me peace of mind when I fly and have layovers, but they’ve also helped me track my lost luggage more times than I can count. I was once able to see that my suitcase had been left behind in Dublin during a layover flying from Boston to Rome, and was able to track it when it eventually arrived in Italy and was making its way to my house via an airport worker. 

I also use them in my everyday life to keep a close eye on my keys and wallet, and have yet to change their battery even though I’ve had them for two years. Although pricey, they’re worth the investment — and the good news is that they’re currently 20 percent off at Amazon.

Amazon Fire 10-inch Tablet

Bibliophiles know the power of a good book and are well acquainted with how easy it can be to lose track of time when you’re engrossed in a story. My paper-thin Amazon Fire tablet, which easily fits into my personal item or carry-on suitcase, is always on me when I travel, and I can easily pass the hours reading a book or two on particularly long flights. 

The Amazon Fire tablet doesn’t just stop at books, though — you can play games (I’m a big fan of in-flight Solitaire), catch a movie or show via Netflix or Disney+, listen to music on Spotify, and even jump on a Zoom call. It’s an incredibly versatile device that’s great for traveling, and to sweeten the deal, it’s currently on sale for $95.

Topbag Family Passport Holder

As a triple citizen, I always carry all my passports with me when I travel, which can be a bulky ordeal. While mine was gifted to me years ago, this TopBag Family Passport Holder is a close match. Capable of holding up to six passports, which is ideal for families or friends traveling together, the wallet also comes with a cash pocket and six card slots so you can keep all your essentials in one, easy-to-reach place. It’s slim enough to fit into a personal item and comes with a handy strap that you can wear around your wrist for easy access. 

Miady Dual USB Portable Chargers 2-pack

This pack of two pocket-sized portable chargers , roughly the same size as an Apple iPhone, is essential for long international flights, especially ones with layovers. I’ve brought these all over the world with me, from Iceland and Ireland to Rome and India. They're small enough to fit into a crossbody bag and each portable charger comes with two USB ports that can charge two devices at a time, which I usually use to juice up my cell phone and Amazon Fire tablet during long flights. Currently on sale for $18, these portable chargers have enough power to get you anywhere you need to be and back, as their near-76,000 five-star ratings can attest to.

Uto 3-in-1 Crossbody Bag

I purchased this crossbody bag for a recent week-long road trip through Ireland , and have since crowned it my official travel purse for its durability, ample storage features, and sleek silhouette. It can easily survive the wear and tear of traveling long distances thanks to its water-and-scratch resistant synthetic-washed leather exterior — seriously, it emerged from my Ireland trip virtually unscathed despite suffering comical amounts of wind, rain, and mud. 

What's more, the crossbody bag comes with three zippered compartments, one of them detachable, plus a removable chest-level coin purse. Inside, I can fit my three passports, wallet, keys, lip balms, hand creams, Apple AirPods, portable charger, and phone cable — with room to spare. The bag’s budget-friendly price tag, now on sale for $23, is just the cherry on top. 

Monogrammed Luggage Tag

Trying to find your suitcase at baggage claim can be tricky, which is why I make mine stand out with this small but chic monogrammed luggage tag. Made from supple PU leather, the black luggage tag is virtually scratch-free and comes with a subtle privacy shield to cover your personal information. It’s an extra step to ensure that my bases are covered in case my luggage gets lost, and it doesn’t hurt that it’s pretty cute, too.

Etronik Weekender Bag

Weekender bags are all the rage these days, and for good reason. They’re sleek, spacious, and easy to carry — essential criteria for any kind of travel. I usually bring my flight attendant-loved Béis Mini Weekender Bag with me on international flights for its sturdy exterior, stiff-zippered bottom shoe compartment, and ample storage space. For those who don’t want to splurge on Béis’ $98 version , you can score this budget-friendly weekender from Amazon-loved brand Etronik (which I also own) is on sale for $36. 

Available in over 20 color and pattern variations, the Etronik Weekender Bag features a bottom zippered shoe compartment, a USB charging port, a toiletry bag, two shoe bags, and a detachable and adjustable shoulder strap. Because of these smart features, which have earned it over 7,000 five-star ratings, I used the bag every weekend for nearly a year when taking four-hour bus rides between Boston and New York City. Even though I’ve now upgraded to Béis, the Etronik bag is still in great shape and ready to go when I need it.

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