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World of dark tourism where thrillseekers risk death in dangerous countries

A traveller who claimed he was stuck in Kabul along with other “dark tourists” who travel the world and risk their lives has been “evacuated”.

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A British man who claimed he was stuck in Kabul after going to Afghanistan on a holiday has been “evacuated”.

Miles Routledge, 24, said he picked the bizarre holiday destination after googling “the most dangerous cities to visit” — but it soon “got way out of hand”, The Sun reports.

As of Sunday he was hiding out in a UN safehouse after trying to flee the war-torn Afghan capital several times.

But now he claims he has finally been rescued from possible death at the hands of the Taliban.

The Loughborough physics student from Birmingham documented his alleged escape on Facebook, alongside a smiling photo of himself in army gear.

He said: “Evacuated at 4ish (it’s 2am now) with 100 or so other civilians.

“Couldn’t message as there were cars emitting signals that would set off bombs.

“It blocked my airpods from connecting so I think it blocked all wifi/data.

“The Taliban let us go through the airport and we met many of them.

“Very long transition period but everyone was smiling and waving at one another, some took selfies with them.

“I slept on a dirt/gravel road and woke up as cars went by.

“We’re in a new safe house and we’re all hydrated, happy and ready for a few hours of sleep.”

‘Coming home’

Miles had been documenting his odd trip on Facebook, Twitch, the live streaming platform, and on 4chan, the message board site linked to viral memes and pranks.

As thousands of desperate Afghans try get out of the country after the Taliban victory , Miles had said he believed he would be safe because of a £15 (A$28) joke purchase which gives him the right to use the title “Lord” —- seen on his American Express card.

But later told worried friends: “No more flights in Kabul, I’m stuck in Afghanistan. Bit of a pickle.”

Miles’ mum, Susan, was too distraught to speak at the family home in Sutton Coldfield about her son’s situation.

She told The Sun Online on Monday she was urgently waiting for a call from the Foreign Office to find out whether Miles will be kept safe.

And a pal at Loughborough University has now revealed Miles had wanted to do “something weird during summer to show off about” in September.

The meme-loving student had posted about his plans for the “insane” trip on online university forums before setting off on his holiday, his friend said.

“Miles is definitely in Afghanistan - 100 per cent. He’s genuinely there. People might think it’s an elaborate hoax but it’s true,” he told The Sun Online.

“People told him he was insane. They told him he was a nutcase if he went over there at the moment.

“But I think it just spurred him on. He’s a joker - he just wanted to do something weird during summer to show off about.

“This seems like an elaborate real-life meme gone way too far.”

He added: “This is a joke that’s just gone way out of hand. He wanted to come back in September with a story to tell about how he went to Kabul.

“The madness and the danger doesn’t appear to have crossed his mind.

“He posted on Reddit saying he’d bought a knife to protect himself. He said, ‘If I go down, I want to go down guns blazing’. It’s ridiculous.

“He’s definitely not a fighter. He couldn’t handle himself against a uni student - let alone the Taliban.”

Holiday hell

Miles was planning to spend a few weeks in Kabul before going to Albania and flying back to England to avoid the UK’s red list, his pal said yesterday.

“This was just his weird summer holiday. It’s not like he’s going there because he’s got an interest in what’s happening - he’s only gone there for a joke,” he said.

“It’s insane. Now he’s trapped and he can’t get back.

“I can understand going somewhere for a joke. But going to Kabul while it’s falling it’s just madness.

“He’s literally stuck there and he can’t get back. They’ve pulled out all the troops. It’s just crazy.”

‘Prepared for death’

Physics student Miles, originally from Birmingham, said he picked the location for his trip after googling “the most dangerous cities to visit”.

He has been documenting his trip on 4chan, the message board site, and on Twitch, the livestreaming platform.

Miles told his followers: “I was fully prepared for death, I accepted it.

“This trip has been a test of God. I’m very religious so I believe I’ll be looked after.

“Before I left I wrote a letter to my friends saying that if I died, not to feel guilty, that I would die happy and religious and proud,” he said.

“I was under the impression that the country wouldn’t fall for another month, so I thought it was going to be fine.

“I’d seen videos on YouTube of people going. I thought maybe the worst case would be food poisoning.”

History of tourists getting in trouble

Yet Miles is not the first British tourist to naively travel to an international danger zone and find themselves in deep trouble.

In 2019, British vlogger Jolie King and her Aussie partner Mark Firkin were arrested in Iranian capital Tehran for flying a drone.

Ms King was held in Evin Prison in the same wing as Nazanin Zaghari-Ratcliffe, a Brit charity worker accused of being a spy.

According to former inmates there, prisoners have been electrocuted and raped by guards as well as being beaten so hard they vomit blood.

Luckily for Jolie, she and her boyfriend were eventually released with the couple saying they were “happy and relieved” to be back in Australia.

Into the danger zone

But why do Westerners want to visit war zones and other dangerous places?

British dark tourist Andy McGinlay, 40, has travelled to more than 100 countries around the world, and has developed a taste for extreme holidays.

Between 2010 and 2015, he visited Syria, Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan and North Korea – and feared he’d be kidnapped more than once.

He told Sun Online about the motivations behind his adventures – which have seen him threatened with knives and taken against his will by fake tour guides.

Mr McGinlay said: “The first one was Yemen in 2004 and I got a taste for the thrill of it.

“In the beginning I got an adrenaline rush, absolutely.

“These days the feeling is what I call ‘hyper alert’ – where you become acutely aware of movements and sounds around you.

“Your guard is way up. I guess it’s the state in between fight or flight mode.”

Glasgow-born Mr McGinlay, who runs a travel-based YouTube channel, said he was inspired by Lonely Planet co-founder Tony Wheeler who visited the pariah states listed by George Bush in his infamous ‘Axis of Evil’ speech following 9/11.

He said: “But my ultimate ambition is to visit every country in the world – which is also driving me to take risks.”

‘They were spying on me’

And Jolie King isn’t the only Brit to have a sinister experience in Iran – which executes more people per capita than any other country on Earth.

In 2012, Mr McGinlay believes he was spied on by Iranian security services during a trip to the northern city of Tabirz.

He arranged a guide, who was a local PhD student, to show him around and host him at his home for a few days.

However, when he left, travelling into northern Iraq overland, his Iranian chaperone was arrested for “consorting with a British foreigner”.

Mr McGinlay believes he must have been followed by police as he arrived in Iran by bus from Armenia and never spoke with immigration authorities or police while in the country.

He had obtained a visa from the Iranian embassy in Bangkok, Thailand, where he was working as a teacher.

‘They are so paranoid’

Mr McGinlay said: “They knew I was British and knew my identity. How did they join the dots?

“They are so paranoid, they interrogated him to find out if I was a spy.

“But what that means is that they must have been spying on us at the time which is incredible.

“They must have wondered or assumed that I was a spy because it’s very unusual for a British person to be travelling in Iran at that time and in that place. It’s not a very touristy place.”

Luckily, the guide was eventually released after he was able to prove that the Scottish backpacker’s visit was entirely innocent.

Other tourists have not been so fortunate.

In 2010, another British tourist Andrew Barber was accused of “spying” by Iran and spent 58 days in Evin Prison – the same hellish jail where Ms King was held.

It emerged that Andrew’s “crime” was taking a photograph of a sunrise which was near a power plant.

When police checked his belongings, they discovered that he had previously worked in Iraq – one of Iran’s bitter regional rivals – for logistics company DHL.

He claims he was refused access to the British embassy and thrown into a cell where he was left blindfolded for 26 days.

He said: “I had no furniture and almost no natural light. Only a bright fluorescent tube that stayed on 24/7, even when you were trying to sleep.

Arrested for taking a picture

“I was allowed out of my cell 10 minutes a day to use the toilet. I started to lose my mind after about seven days.”

Thankfully, the charges against Mr McGinlay were eventually dropped because there was no evidence against him and he was handed over to the British embassy.

“Danger travel”, viewed by many enthusiasts as a distinct offshoot of dark tourism, made headlines in 2016 when US tourist Otto Warmbier was jailed in North Korea for stealing a propaganda poster.

But despite being sentenced to 15 years hard labour, the 22-year-old was released the following year in a coma after suffering a “severe neurological injury” while in prison.

He died on June 19, 2017 as a result of his injuries.

The loose definition of “dark tourism”, a phrase coined by two Scottish academics in the 1990s, is visiting a place which is known for death or disaster.

Many experts believe there is an important distinction between visiting historical sites such as Auschwitz and so-called “danger travel”.

Dr Peter Hohenhaus claims to be “probably the most widely travelled, dedicated dark tourist” in the world having visited more than 700 different sites including Nazi death camps and Chernobyl.

He told Sun Online: “I do not seek danger and have rarely found myself in risky situations, and if so that was quite independently of dark tourism and not planned as such, often having more to do with dodgy means of transport in countries such as Indonesia.

“It is unfortunately a very common misunderstanding of dark tourism that it is ‘danger tourism’ but for 99.99 per cent of it that is not actually the case.

“I know there are people who actively look for an adrenaline kick through danger tourism – for example by travelling to active war zones even, but I would not call that dark tourism.

“It’s something else and something I do not take part in or can even relate to much.”

This article originally appeared on The Sun and has been republished with permission

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Afghanistan

Safety and security.

There is a high threat of terrorist attack globally affecting UK interests and British nationals, including from groups and individuals who view the UK and British nationals as targets. Stay aware of your surroundings at all times.   

UK Counter Terrorism Policing has information and advice on staying safe abroad and what to do in the event of a terrorist attack. Find out how to reduce your risk from terrorism while abroad .   

Terrorism in Afghanistan

Terrorists are very likely to try to carry out attacks in Afghanistan.

On 17 May 2024, foreign national tourists were reportedly shot dead and others wounded in a market in Bamiyan in Central Afghanistan.

Al-Qaida (AQ), a Daesh branch known as Islamic State Khorasan Province (ISKP) and other militant groups have an active presence in Afghanistan. These groups hold strong anti-western views, which could make any British interest or person a target. Daesh (ISKP) continues to be a serious threat and is fiercely hostile to the UK, other western countries and some religious minority communities. Daesh (ISKP) and other groups also target NGOs and humanitarian organisations.

If you choose to travel to or stay in Afghanistan against FCDO advice, be aware that terrorists have a strong desire to target public places frequented by foreign nationals. This could include restaurants and hotels used by foreigners, such as the Serena in Kabul.

An attack on Kabul International Airport in August 2021 killed at least 183 people. Further attacks against aviation and airports are very likely.

ISKP have claimed responsibility for attacks in many types of location, including:

• places of worship
• government, military and security establishments

Diplomatic premises may be attacked to undermine Taliban claims of security.

It is likely that terrorists will conduct attacks at busy times of day, potentially coinciding with local or religious events or celebrations. In the past this has included attacks against:

• marketplaces
• sites, communities and districts where the majority population is Shia Muslim

Attacks in Afghanistan include roadside and suicide bombs either on foot or by vehicle, indirect rocket and mortar fire, direct fire, including shootings and rocket propelled grenades.

If you are in Afghanistan, make sure your accommodation is secure and review your security measures regularly. Keep others, including family and friends, informed of your travel plans. Any regular patterns of travel and behaviour could make you the target of an attack.

Terrorist kidnap

There is a very high threat of being kidnapped in Afghanistan.       

British nationals are seen as legitimate targets, including tourists, humanitarian aid workers, journalists and business travellers. If you are kidnapped, the reason for your presence is unlikely to protect you or secure your safe release.

The long-standing policy of the British government policy is to not make substantive concessions to hostage takers. The British government considers that paying ransoms and releasing prisoners builds the capability of terrorist groups and finances their activities. This can, in turn, increase the risk of further hostage-taking. The Terrorism Act (2000) makes payments to terrorists illegal.

Political situation

Afghanistan is under Taliban control. 

The Taliban has a very low tolerance for demonstrations and for activities perceived as dissent. Foreign nationals’ activities are viewed with suspicion. Do not do anything which could be interpreted as seeking to achieve political change through violence, or any activity inciting violence.

You may come under suspicion if you go near sensitive sites or contact people who are of interest to the authorities for any reason.

The British government will have very limited ability to help you if you get into difficulty in Afghanistan. If you are a British national already resident in Afghanistan, you should carefully consider the risk to your safety.

The political situation remains uncertain and could change rapidly. Keep up to date with developments about the security situation and monitor local media.

Do not rely on previous experience of travelling in Afghanistan or previous understanding of rules, laws and society. British nationals with previous experience of operating in Afghanistan have been detained in the country since August 2021.

The current conflict in Israel and the Occupied Palestinian Territories has led to protests in Afghanistan. Avoid demonstrations as they may turn violent and you may be arrested.  

Detention and possible charges

There is a significant risk the Taliban could detain British nationals.

The Taliban are suspicious of foreign nationals working or travelling in Afghanistan, including humanitarian workers and journalists, and it’s likely your work and movements will be closely monitored.

If you are detained in Afghanistan, you could face months or years in prison without clarity about the charges.

The Taliban are likely to suspect you of spying and may detain you if you are found in possession of:

• weapons or explosives
• tracking devices
• large amounts of money
• items considered unusual

The risk of detention is especially high if you have worked in the military or have connections to previously detained British nationals.

If you are found guilty of spying or working to undermine Afghanistan’s national security, the punishment may be execution.

UK government support for detainees

The British government may not be notified if you are detained. There are considerable challenges in setting up contact or access. FCDO ’s ability to get any information from the authorities could be severely limited, and you may not be able to contact your next of kin.

There is a risk of violent street crime and home invasion including armed robbery in Afghan cities. Make sure your accommodation is secure and review your security measures regularly.

Criminal Kidnaps

There is a significant risk of kidnapping of foreign nationals for ransom.

Potential targets for kidnap include British tourists, British nationals working for international organisations, and British nationals of Afghan origin visiting friends and relatives.

Criminal groups will target anyone perceived to have money for extortion purposes. Victims can be targeted or selected at random. Criminal groups may kidnap victims by stopping cars on busy roads or targeting people who are withdrawing money from banks and ATMs. Kidnap victims are held while criminals empty their bank accounts using their cash cards. Recent incidents include a British dual national being kidnapped at gunpoint and a British national kidnapped while withdrawing money from a bank.

Laws and cultural differences

There are no formal internationally recognised structures or processes of law in Afghanistan and foreign nationals, including British nationals, have been detained without due process.

Afghanistan is an Islamic country. The country’s laws and customs are very different to those in the UK. It is illegal to try to convert Muslims to other faiths.

Laws on dress

The Taliban have set codes of dress for men and women and strictly enforce them.  

Women, including foreign nationals, must fully cover themselves in public. A woman must wear:

• loose-fitting clothing to conceal her body, arms and legs
• a headscarf to cover her hair
• a veil to cover her face

Men must dress modestly and avoid wearing clothing such as sleeveless shirts or shorts.

Lack of women’s rights

The Taliban have made it illegal for women to travel for more than 75km (46 miles) without being accompanied by their husband, father or brother (a ‘mahram’). This could affect a woman’s ability to leave Afghanistan.  

Ramadan is a holy month for Muslims. The dates vary by year and country.

During this time, do not:

• eat, drink, smoke or chew gum in public in the daytime, including in a vehicle
• play loud music or dance
• swear in public

Illegal food, drugs and alcohol    

You are not allowed to use or bring into the country narcotics, alcohol or pork products. If you do, you could be arrested.

Using cameras in secure areas

It may not be immediately clear whether taking photos could cause offence or suspicion. Avoid photographing local people without their agreement and pay close attention to local information and ways of doing things. Photographing certain buildings in Afghanistan is not allowed and may lead to detention, including:

• government buildings
• military installations
• Taliban checkpoints

LGBT+ travellers

Same-sex sexual activity is illegal under the Taliban and has historically always been forbidden in Afghanistan.

Read more advice for LGBT+ travellers .

Buying antiquities

Do not buy or try to export antiquities without getting a receipt from an authorised dealer. When you leave Afghanistan the authorities may ask for proof you bought the item. If you do not have a receipt, they could detain you, and you may get a fine or prison sentence.

If you travel to Afghanistan against FCDO advice, you are likely to encounter problems with money. It is illegal to bring any foreign currency into Afghanistan, but you may not be able to use foreign-issued bank cards at ATMs and local banks.

Some ATMs and many banks accept foreign-issued bank cards, with restrictions on the amount of cash you can withdraw. Check with local branches.

Some international money transfer services continue to operate in Afghanistan. However, payouts will be in local currency, even when the payee has requested foreign exchange.

Transport risks

Road travel.

Road travel is highly dangerous. FCDO advises against all travel around Afghanistan.

The situation at Afghanistan’s border crossings remains volatile. A number of borders remain closed and if opened, can close at short notice. There have been clashes between Afghan and neighbouring forces at some border crossings. 

Kabul International Airport does not meet international aviation safety standards.  

The UK Air Safety List (ASL) lists all known airlines in Afghanistan that do not meet international safety standards and are banned from operating commercial air services to and from the UK. Check the UK Air Safety List when considering which airlines to fly with. The list is maintained by the Department for Transport, based on advice from the UK Civil Aviation Authority .

Extreme weather and natural disasters

Find out what you can do to prepare for and respond to extreme weather and natural hazards .

Earthquakes

Afghanistan is in an active earthquake zone. Consider signing up to the US Geological Survey global monitoring agency . The US Federal Emergency Management Agency website has advice about what to do before, during and after an earthquake .

Floods and avalanches

Heavy rain and winter snowfall can cause significant floods, particularly outside the capital. Heavy snowfall often causes avalanches in the mountains during the winter and spring. Afghanistan lacks emergency response infrastructure, so be prepared for any situation.

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British tourist who went to Afghanistan safe in Dubai

A British tourist who traveled to Afghanistan during the Taliban takeover is reportedly safe in the United Arab Emirates.

Miles Routledge landed in Dubai on Tuesday after being evacuated from Kabul the day prior. He joined dozens of civilians aboard a Royal Air Force cargo plane, the British tabloid The Sun reported.

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Three British nationals including ‘danger tourist’ held by Taliban in Afghanistan

One has been named as so-called ‘danger tourist’ miles routledge, who was previously evacuated from afghanistan by the british army in 2021, article bookmarked.

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Three British men are being held in the custody of the Taliban in Afghanistan .

One includes so-called “danger tourist” Miles Routledge , Sky News reports. Mr Routledge was previously evacuated from Afghanistan by the British armed forces in August 2021, but recently decided to return.

One other British national has been identified as charity medic Kevin Cornwell. The third has not been named but is understood to be a UK national managing a hotel in Kabul.

Mr Cornwell - 53 - was arrested at his hotel by officers from the Taliban’s General Directorate of Intelligence (GDI) in January. He is accused of possessing an illegal firearm, kept in the safe in his room. However, his family have reported that he had been granted a licence for it.

“I’ve seen the Taliban, I’ve been speaking to the locals who have seen them kill people, beat people up for not wearing burqas or for wearing eyeliner or mascara,” Mr Routledge told The Spectator after he was safely evacuated to Dubai in 2021.

Mr Routledge’s Twitter states that he goes “to the most dangerous places on Earth for fun”, listing off recent destinations as Afghanistan, South Sudan and Ukraine.

In February, he tweeted that if he was ever placed on a “no fly list”, he would take an “Uber to Afghanistan.”

The Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office told The Independent that it is “working hard to secure consular contact with British nationals detained in Afghanistan and we are supporting families.”

“We engage pragmatically with the Taliban on HMG priorities, including consular cases like these, human rights, counter-terrorism and humanitarian. HMG policy is to recognise states, not governments”,  it added.

“We continue to advise against all travel to Afghanistan based on the security risks, including detention.”

The Independent recently launched a petition calling for the UK to support Afghan war heroes who served alongside British forces.

Notably, an  Afghan  war veteran  who served alongside British  armed forces  is among those who have fled to the UK on small  boats  and are now being threatened with deportation to  Rwanda .

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British men in Afghanistan make emotional phone calls to family

One of the detainees has gained notoriety for online posts about his travels to dangerous countries.

Miles Routledge returned to Afghanistan after being flown out by British armed forces less than two years ago. Miles Routledge Twitter

Two of three British men who are being held in Taliban custody in Afghanistan have been able to speak to their families in "emotional" calls.

Media reports have identified the three men as charity medic Kevin Cornwell, 53, an unidentified manager of a hotel for aid workers in Kabul and "danger tourist" Miles Routledge.

Mr Routledge returned to the country after being flown out by British armed forces less than two years ago.

UK Home Secretary Suella Braverman on Sunday said her government was holding negotiations after the three men were detained.

“The government is in negotiations and working hard to ensure people's safety is upheld,” Ms Braverman told Sky News.

The UK Foreign Ministry said: “We are working hard to secure consular contact with British nationals detained in Afghanistan and we are supporting families."

The non-profit group the Presidium Network said on Twitter it had been “working closely with two of the families”.

“We believe they are in good health and being well treated,” Scott Richards, co-founder of the Presidium Network, told Sky News.

“We have no reason to believe they've been subject to any negative treatment such as torture and we're told that they are as good as can be expected in such circumstances.”

But he said there had been “no meaningful contact” between authorities and the two men Presidium was assisting.

"We can confirm the men have spoken with the family, the conversation was unscripted, and that they are being treated fairly," Mr Richards tweeted of the calls Mr Cornwell and the unidentified man had with their families.

"The family was able to speak for one minute to one minute and a half and to speak freely, clearly what is an important and emotional call."

He said the call "represents tremendous progress in the situation".

"The details of that call are private but we understand a great relief to the family," Mr Richards said.

"The relief Kevin's family expressed after hearing his voice for the first time in three months, not knowing if he was well, brought a sense of peace and gave them hope that this situation will be resolved soon."

1/ Update: ""We can confirm the men have spoken with the family, the conversation was unscripted, and that they are being treated fairly. The family was able to speak for one minute to one minute and a half and to speak freely, clearly what is an important and emotional call..." — Presidium Network (@PresidiumNet) April 2, 2023

The two men are believed to have been held by the Taliban since January.

It is not known how long Mr Routledge, 23, has been held.

He has gained notoriety by travelling to dangerous countries and posting about it online.

In August 2021, he was on holiday in Afghanistan when he was caught up in the chaos in the capital as the Taliban took control of the country. He appears to have returned since.

Mr Cornwell was arrested at his hotel by officers from the Taliban's General Directorate of Intelligence on January 11. He was allegedly found keeping an illegal firearm in his room — a claim denied by his family.

Presidium on Twitter urged the Taliban to be “considerate of what we believe is a misunderstanding and release these men”.

Last year, the Taliban freed a veteran TV cameraman and four other British citizens they had been holding for six months.

Peter Jouvenal was one of a “number” of Britons the UK government said had been held by the hardline Afghan regime.

The UK Foreign Ministry said the five “had no role in the UK government's work in Afghanistan” and travelled to the country against the official travel advice.

“This is a mistake,” it added.

But Afghanistan government spokesman Zabihullah Mujahid had accused them of “carrying out activities against the country's laws and traditions of the people of Afghanistan”.

Afghanistan's Taliban rulers have banned university education for women nationwide. AFP

“After consecutive meetings between the IEA [Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan] and Britain the said persons were released … and handed over to their home country,” he said at the time.

“They promised to abide by the laws of Afghanistan, its traditions and culture of the people and not to violate them again.”

The Taliban returned to power in August 2021 and has since sparked global outrage over its policies, particularly towards women and girls.

The UK Foreign Ministry continues to advise its citizens against all travel to Afghanistan due to the security risks, including possible detention by the Taliban authorities.

The situation in Afghanistan remains volatile and it would be unwise for anyone to enter the country without understanding the culture and the risks, Mr Richards said.

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PLEASE NOTE THAT SINCE THE TALIBAN TAKEOVER OF AFGHANISTAN IN 2021, WE HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO RUN ANY TRIPS TO THE COUNTRY. WE ARE STILL IN TOUCH WITH OUR LOCAL AFGHAN PARTNERS AND HOPE ONE DAY SOON TO BE ABLE TO OFFER OUR CLIENTS ONCE MORE THE OPPORTUNITY TO EXPERIENCE THIS TROUBLED YET INCREDIBLE COUNTRY FOR THEMSELVES. IF YOU'RE INTERESTED IN BEING ALERTED WHEN OUR NEXT TRIP BECOMES AVAILABLE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO [email protected] WITH THE SUBJECT LINE AFGHANISTAN ...

PLEASE NOTE THAT SINCE THE TALIBAN TAKEOVER OF AFGHANISTAN IN 2021, WE HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO RUN ANY TRIPS TO THE COUNTRY. WE ARE STILL IN TOUCH WITH OUR LOCAL AFGHAN PARTNERS AND HOPE ONE DAY SOON TO BE ABLE TO OFFER OUR CLIENTS ONCE MORE THE OPPORTUNITY TO EXPERIENCE THIS TROUBLED YET INCREDIBLE COUNTRY FOR THEMSELVES. IF YOU'RE INTERESTED IN BEING ALERTED WHEN OUR NEXT TRIP BECOMES AVAILABLE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO [email protected] WITH THE SUBJECT LINE AFGHANISTAN AND WE'LL KEEP YOU UPDATED. THE INFORMATION BELOW COMES FROM PRE-2021 TIMES

A country that hardly needs any introduction, the very mention of Afghanistan will give politicians and journalists palpitations and have travellers salivating with expectation. Arid and mountainous, for centuries it has lain at the heart of the empiric machinations of world affairs; its extraordinary landscapes playing host to the great games of international politics. Its turbulent history though masks a culture of staggering diversity and its proud and hospitable people are amongst the most fascinating and courteous you could ever wish to meet.

So, follow in the footsteps of Marco Polo and journey across mountains and plains that have changed little over the intervening centuries. Discover an extraordinary string of cities that lie spread across the landscape from Kabul to the Hindu Kush, visit the mountain caves of Bamiyan, the historic towns of Herat and Mazar-i-Sharif as well as the famous Panjshir Valley.

Here the advances of 20th century have largely been left far behind and the horse and donkey still reign supreme. And then there is the remarkable Wakhan corridor, created by the British as a buffer-zone against perceived Imperial Russian expansionism. Best approached from across the border in neighbouring Tajikistan, it is politically and culturally another world.

Meet the Expert

Start your journey, highlights of afghanistan, best experiences.

Hike and walk in the Wakhan’s peaks

One of the best ways to take in and appreciate the area’s impressive nature is by foot and there will be ample opportunity for hikes and walks particularly around Kret Village in the foothills of Babaa Tangi (6,513m), perhaps the Wakhan’s most photogenic peak.

Meet isolated, local communities

Reliant on the hospitality of the locals in this largely cut off part of the world, you will undoubtedly meet many members of the communities that call it home; notable are the Wakhi people and the women who wear bright red scarves and beaded necklaces.  

Travel through Afghan mountains

Using a road built by the Soviets, delve into the Afghanistan Wakhan Corridor for a truly privileged experience. Overcoming the logistical difficulties, the journey will most certainly have been worth it once surrounded by the region’s magnificent landscapes.  

Discover more

The weather in Kabul is cold in the winter and hot in the summer. Dress in layers and keep the following in mind as you pack: versatility and modesty. In the Wakhan Corridor the weather tends to be clear in the months between June and September, although rain and snow is not out of the question. The rest of the year the area is impassable.

Meet the expert, Clem

Clem is our Central Asia expert, who has travelled extensively in the region.

Speak to Clementine by calling +44 (0)20 3944 6258

USEFUL INFORMATION

Health and Vaccinations

There are no mandatory immunisations for travellers to Afghanistan though you should be up-to-date with Typhoid, Tetanus, Polio and Hepatitis A. Malaria is present in some parts of Afghanistan so we recommend you seek advice from your local GP or travel centre as to the correct immunisations and preventative treatments.

In Afghanistan the official unit of currency is the Afghani.

To check out the latest exchange rate for the places that you are visiting you can go to www.oanda.com .

Cultural Sensitivity

On our tours you will frequently interact with local people, each with their own distinct customs and traditions. We therefore ask you to be considerate and to treat them with respect. Your tour-leaders and guides will always be able to advise you accordingly.

Afghanistan, as an Islamic country, is in places very traditional and conservative. So, no shorts or skimpy tops here for either of the sexes! Both men and women should dress modestly in loose fitting cotton shirts and slacks (men) or long skirts (women). Women should also wear a headscarf at all times – please bring one with you for arrival but note that locally produced ones can be purchased in country. In the churches and cathedrals women should cover their heads with a scarf or hat, while men should take their hats off.

Language & Religion

Pashto and Dari Persian are the two official languages of Afghanistan and both are Indo-European and from the Iranian languages sub family. Persian is the prestige language and the main means of inter-ethnic communication. Pashto is the native tongue of the Pashtuns, the single largest ethno-linguistic group within Afghanistan.

Religiously, Afghans are 99% Muslim with about 80% Sunni and 19% Shi’a. As of 2008 only one Jewish man lives in Afghanistan in Kabul, the sole Jewish representation after the majority emigrated at the end of the 90’s.

Afghanistan is 4.5 hours ahead of GMT. A useful website to check the time zone differences is www.worldtimezone.com .

Food and drink

Typically, the Afghans do not understand the concept of vegetarianism and their diet is based on meat, bread and rice with a small amount of vegetables together with fruit. Most rice is cooked with meat stock or bones and is therefore not suitable for a strict vegetarian. Alcohol is prohibited in Afghanistan and you should under no circumstances attempt to bring any into the country.

Travelling Solo In Afghanistan 

All of our small group tours are designed to cater for solo travellers : the number of solo travellers will vary from tour to tour, but usually over half will be travelling alone. Get all of the excitement of discovering new places combined with the security of travelling with an organised group, with like minded people.

'Danger tourist' among three Britons held by Taliban - as government 'in negotiations' to ensure their safety

The three men include "danger tourist" Miles Routledge, who had to be rescued from Afghanistan in 2021 when Western forces pulled out of the country suddenly as the Taliban took over.

Political reporter @alixculbertson

Sunday 2 April 2023 10:07, UK

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The UK government is "in negotiations" over three Britons held by the Taliban in Afghanistan, the home secretary has said.

The three British men include "danger tourist" Miles Routledge, 23, charity medic Kevin Cornwell, 53, and an unnamed UK national who manages a hotel in Kabul.

They are all believed to have been held by Taliban secret police since January in separate incidents, it emerged on Saturday .

Latest: Britons held by Taliban 'in contact' with families

Asked about the Home Secretary Suella Braverman told Sky News' Sophy Ridge on Sunday: "If there are risks to people's safety, if they're a British citizen abroad, then the UK government is going to do whatever it takes to ensure that they're safe.

"The government is in negotiations and working hard to ensure people's safety is upheld."

Asked directly if the government was in negotiations over the three men, Ms Braverman replied: "If there are problems and if there are safety concerns to British individuals abroad, then the FCO will be working actively to ensure people are safe."

More on Afghanistan

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Afghan activist who was 'erased' by Taliban reveals how women are 'suffering' in Iran

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• Afghanistan

She added that anybody travelling to dangerous parts of the world "should take the utmost caution" and should always act on the advice of the Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office (FCDO).

The FCDO advises UK citizens against all travel to Afghanistan based on the security risks involved, including the possibility of detention by the Taliban authorities.

It says there are no British consular officials in the country and the ability to provide consular assistance "is severely limited and cannot be delivered in person".

Taliban not a proscribed terrorist group

Earlier, an FCDO spokesman said: "We are working hard to secure consular contact with British nationals detained in Afghanistan and we are supporting families."

The UK maintains a rule of not negotiating with terrorists, but the Taliban in Afghanistan is not a proscribed terrorist group and Supreme Leader Hibatullah Akhundzada is not subject to sanctions.

Mr Routledge has gained fame - and attracted controversy - by travelling to dangerous countries and posting about it online.

In August 2021, he was on a "holiday" in Afghanistan when he was caught up in the chaos in the capital as the Taliban took control of the country.

He chose the war-torn country having looked up a list of the most dangerous places to visit in the world, despite the Taliban taking control of more and more of the country at the time.

Mr Routledge thanked the British Army after he was among those to leave during the Kabul airlift when the UK and allied forces left the country suddenly as the Taliban took over.

He appears to have returned to the country since then.

Scott Richards from the Presidium Network non-profit organisation, which is assisting Mr Cornwell and the unnamed Briton, told Sky News he believes the pair are in good health and are being well treated.

But he added: "There has been no meaningful contact [with the men], there has been no access by international monitoring agencies... and there's been no other form of access to the individuals to date."

He said he was "very hopeful" they would have contact with the men.

Mr Cornwell was arrested at his hotel by officers from the Taliban's general directorate of intelligence on 11 January.

He is accused of having an illegal firearm in the safe in his room, but his family say he had been granted a licence for the firearm.

Mr Richards said this was a "misunderstanding" and the licence may have become separated from the firearm during the search.

Related Topics

• How to travel to Afghanistan during Taliban rule (2024)

By Joan Torres 77 Comments Last updated on June 3, 2024

The first time I traveled in Afghanistan was in June 2021, just when the US Army had begun to withdraw from the country, and shortly before the Taliban took it over.

With the new change of government, I decided to go back to see what it was like to travel in Afghanistan under new Taliban rule.

From a traveling perspective, a lot has changed in this country.

After visiting Afghanistan 5 times, traveling all across the country, during the 4 seasons, from Kandahar to the Wakhan Corridor, here’s the most updated and complete travel guide to Afghanistan, containing everything you need to know relating to safety, visas, permits, budget, top experiences, cultural facts, and more.

Check: 50 Photos that will show you the beauty of Afghanistan

In this Afghanistan travel blog you will find:

Table of Contents

• Can you travel there?
• Introduction
• Travel insurance
• Travel permits
• Dealing with Taliban
• Female Travel
• Independent Travel
• Best time to visit
• Top 5 Experiences
• Money and budget
• Getting around
• More Information

our recommended travel insurance for Afghanistan

IATI Insurance is one of the very few that covers travel in Afghanistan.

Can you travel to Afghanistan now?

Yes, today, anyone can go to Afghanistan.

In fact, Afghanistan has always been open for tourism, and visas have always been issued at the respective embassies.

When the Taliban came into power, only 2 or 3 embassies could issue you a tourist visa but today, the number of embassies increased significantly – more on that on the visa section .

Moreover, either because they want to whitewash their image, or because they need foreign currency, the new Taliban Government is welcoming foreign tourists, the only barrier being the ethical issues that such a trip may trigger on certain travelers.

Introduction: What’s going on in Afghanistan?

More than 40 years of conflict have turned Afghanistan into an actual war-torn country, starting in 1979, when tribal people rebelled against the Communist party, starting a war between the Soviet Union and the Mujahideen , which lasted until 1989.

The Soviets were defeated but then, Mujahideen warlords began to fight each other over power, impoverishing the country even more.

Fed up with all that warlordism and disappointed that Islamic law had not been enforced after the communists were kicked out, a former Mujahid founded a movement named Taliban in the city of Kandahar .

That man was Mullah Omar, the historical leader of the Taliban.

The Taliban quickly took over the whole Kandahar province and, by 1996, they controlled 90% of Afghanistan’s territory, including Kabul, ruling until 2001.

Then, the American Invasion came, initiating a war that ended with their withdrawal in 2021, an event that Taliban used to take over the country.

Afghanistan under Taliban rule is the situation you will witness if you travel today in Afghanistan.

🪪 How to get a visa for Taliban Afghanistan

Before the Taliban took over in 2021, you could get an Afghanistan visa at pretty much any embassy around the world but things have changed now, since there’s only a handful of embassies and consulates that can issue you with a valid visa:

The easiest embassies where to get an Afghan visa are:

• Dubai (United Arab Emirates)
• Islamabad ( Pakistan )
• Peshawar (Pakistan)
• Doha (Qatar)

Furthermore, travel reports suggest that the following embassies are also issuing tourist visas for Afghanistan but I don’t have any personal experience with it – reports are welcome in the comments section :

• Istanbul (Turkey)
• Tehran ( Iran )
• Abu Dhabi ( United Arab Emirates )
• Bishkek ( Kyrgyzstan )

And last, some embassies in Europe have also started issuing them in:

The easiest is to get your visa in your home country but if there is no active embassy in the country you reside, Dubai and Islamabad are the most convenient places, for the simple reason that you find there are daily flight connections with Kabul.

Visa on arrival (VOA) for Afghanistan

There is a way to get a VOA for Afghanistan and that is by crossing from Tajikistan at the Shir Khan border – this is the border that is closer to the Afghan city of Kunduz.

The visa on arrival has a cost of 150 USD and the whole paperwork takes a few hours.

From Kunduz, you can easily get to Mazar. This border however, is the most convenient one for those traveling to the Wakhan Corridor. In fact, this is the route we’ll take on our upcoming Wakhan Corridor Expedition .

Travel requirements for the Afghanistan visa

I’ve personally got my Afghan visa in Islamabad, Dubai and Madrid and generally speaking, these are always their requirements:

• 1-2 passport photos
• 1 passport copy
• 1 Pakistan visa copy (if you apply in Islamabad)
• 80-130 US dollars, depending on the urgency. Americans can pay up to 210 USD
• Letter of Invitation (LOI) + Company license of your sponsor – Optional

Read: How to travel to Pakistan

My personal experience applying for the Afghanistan visa

Islamabad: Showed up without an appointment. A visa costs 80 USD, but you can also pay an additional 50 USD to get your visa in less than 24 hours. In my case, I went to the embassy at 3:30pm and got it the next day around 2pm. If I had applied early in the morning, I could have got it on the same day in the afternoon. No LOI was needed.

Madrid: Showed up without an appointment. Paid €200 and got my visa in 1 hour. The non-urgent service takes 1 week and costs €120. You may mail them your docs as well. No LOI was needed.

Dubai: Showed up without an appointment. Paid 130 USD and got my visa in 3 hours. Travel reports suggest that sometimes, they do ask for the LOI.

The other embassies and consulates have similar rules, but visa fees may vary. Your reports on this matter are welcome in the comments section.

How long is the visa valid for?

The visa is single entry and it’s valid for 30 days within a 90-day period.

Which nationalities can go to Afghanistan?

All nationalities are eligible to apply for an Afghan visa at any of the previously shared embassies.

Can Americans travel to Afghanistan?

Yes, US citizens can also travel to Afghanistan without any sort of restriction.

Do you need a Letter of Invitation for your Afghan visa application?

Upon applying for your Afghan visa, they might ask who will be your sponsor in Afghanistan, but you can say that you don’t need one, that you are traveling alone, and it should be fine.

This rule applies in Islamabad and sometimes in Dubai as well, but in Dubai, some travel reports suggest that this hasn’t always been the case.

At the end of the day, in Afghanistan, rules aren’t written and more often than not, they depend on the respective authority’s mood.

🚑 Travel Insurance for Afghanistan

Most travel insurance companies don’t cover for travel in Afghanistan.

The one which does, however, is IATI Insurance .

• They have loads of different plans for all types of travelers
• Covers senior citizens too
• Readers of this blog can get an exclusive 5% discount .

⚠️ Is it safe to travel in Afghanistan with the Taliban?

From a safety perspective, there hasn’t been a better time to visit Afghanistan.

Let me explain why.

Visiting Afghanistan before the Taliban took over in 2021

Up to summer 2021, any trip to Afghanistan was potentially dangerous.

The country was ruled by a “democratic’” Government, but they were in an ongoing war with the Taliban, who controlled a significant part of Afghanistan.

Traveling in the Government-controlled areas was relatively OK but suicide bombings occurred every other day and violent crime in cities like Kabul were kind of a big deal.

On the other hand, Taliban-controlled areas were physically possible to visit but the chance of getting kidnapped was extremely high.

In summary, visiting Afghanistan was possible but you had to travel with an extra degree of caution and accept a certain amount of risk.

Read: Is Pakistan safe?

Traveling in Afghanistan after the Taliban took over in 2021

Despite the humanitarian and economic crisis, the war is finally over in Afghanistan and the new rulers are trying to build a peaceful and legitimate Government – or pretending to at least – aiming at being recognized by the entire international community.

Taliban are not carrying out terrorist attacks any longer, kidnappings are a thing from the past, and violent crime seems to have disappeared from Kabul.

Is this thanks to the Taliban?

Well, that’s what they want you to believe but not really, it’s just that they are the ones in charge now, they aren’t fighting anymore and just wish to be a normal country, while attracting foreign investment.

Afghanistan is very safe today, one can really feel it because all the provinces are fully open and also because the Afghans you will meet along the way will keep repeating all the time, that Afghanistan is finally safe .

Warning: What about IS Khorasan?

You might find it hard to believe that the Islamic State is still alive and that they have become the number 1 enemy of the Taliban, claiming that Taliban are too soft and mere puppets of the West.

This branch of IS in Central Asia is called IS Khorasan and the Taliban are currently in a violent counterinsurgency struggle against them.

IS Khorasan has carried out several terrorist attacks under Taliban rule but it’s all been at a small scale and, as I mentioned several times, the likelihood of being caught in the middle of a suicide bombing is extremely low.

Nonetheless, remember that this isn’t Thailand, and that traveling in Afghanistan never comes without risk.

Permits for traveling in Afghanistan

For traveling around Afghanistan, you will need special permission from the Taliban.

If you are traveling on an organized tour, you don’t need to worry about anything because your local fixer will take care of that but independent travelers will have to get it for themselves which, in our experience, isn’t an easy thing to do.

Need to know about your permit for traveling around Afghanistan

Your travel permit must mention all the provinces you will visit in Afghanistan.

However, it should only mention those provinces you are planning to stay in, not those you are just passing through.

For example, if you want to visit Bamyan from Kabul, you will inevitably pass through Wardak province, but you don’t necessarily need a permit for that, because you’ll just be driving through.

You will have to pay 1000 AFN for each province you visit, which is around 12 USD.

This permit is absolutely needed, and many Taliban will ask for it at checkpoints.

Note: They will usually make you pay 1000 AFN per province you visit but sometimes, depending on the traveler, they don’t charge it. From what I heard, they usually don’t charge anything to female travelers.

How to get your travel permit for Afghanistan, a step-by-step guide

Warning: The following steps look pretty straightforward but, in our experience, rules keep changing and everyone seemed to give us different information. Getting inside the different offices and ministries was also pretty challenging, since the Taliban guarding the gates don’t speak a single word of English, and they never seemed to understand the purpose of our visit.

Step 1 – Go to the Ministry of Culture & Information

Location is here .

Here, you’ll need to get 2 signatures from 2 different authorities, which will take around 2 hours.

Once you get your 2 signatures, they will give you an address and a phone number.

In our case, each of the 2 authorities gave us completely different addresses, phone numbers and contact persons but only one of them picked up the phone.

Step 2 – Go to the Tourism Directory, aka Afghan Tour

This building was difficult to find, since there wasn’t any sign but only concrete walls around it.

Once you get in the building, you’ll be interviewed by a person, who will probably ask why you aren’t traveling with a guide or a translator.

For this conversation, it’s important to wear local clothes, be extremely polite and pretend that you know your way around the country.

We said we had good friends in Bamyan and Herat, that they would be our translators, which seemed to satisfy him.

He’ll also ask for the provinces you plan to visit and after the interview, you’ll speak to the highest authority from this department, the person responsible for signing your travel permit and giving the final OK.

Afghanistan travel tip: Remember that on Friday, the offices are closed.

How to register at the regional office

Once you get your general travel permit, you will also have to register at the regional Information & Culture Department of every province you visit.

For example, if you visit Kandahar, the first thing you should do before sightseeing is just showing up at the respective office to get the local permit, which you will get only if you show them the general travel permit you got in Kabul.

This local permit will allow you to visit freely all the sites within the province.

Where are these offices located?

• Herat is here
• Kandahar is here
• Bamyan is here
• Mazar is here

How to deal with the Taliban when you’re in Afghanistan

Taliban are everywhere and, as an independent traveler, you will have to interact with them at checkpoints or when trying to get your permits.

Here’s what you need to know about it.

Taliban are generally kind with foreigners

Believe it or not, most Taliban I spoke with were particularly nice and helpful.

They are mostly Pashtun, a group of people living across Pakistan and Afghanistan, known for being the most hospitable people on Earth, ruled by a code of conduct that dictates that guests should be protected with their own life if needed.

I personally believe that, on most occasions, their kindness is genuine but you also need to remember that Taliban wish to be recognized as a legit Government and that their extreme kindness could be part of that strategy.

Taking photos with Talib boys

Taliban are usually very keen to be photographed or to be in selfies, and they seem to enjoy it a lot, so don’t be shy and just ask.

Remember that you don’t need to like them, but at least pretend that you do

Look, I have no particular sympathy for the Taliban.

At the end of the day, we all know that their aim is imposing and forcing all Afghans to follow their fundamentalist Orthodox ideas of Islam.

However, if you want to travel around the country independently, you will need to play along with their game and if you are not willing to do that, perhaps you should travel in Afghanistan with a local guide, so your interactions with them will be minimum.

I am at a stage where I don’t really care to be judged by other travelers – or people reading this blog – so know that in Kabul, I did buy a Taliban flag, which I showed and waved at checkpoints when I found it convenient, just to make our journey a smooth one.

What’s the general opinion on Taliban?

It’s important to remember that Afghanistan is the most conservative country in the world (along with Yemen and way more than Saudi Arabia ) and whether we like it or not, many Afghans – and that includes many women too – haven’t seen their lives changed with the new Taliban rule and that reason is that they were already following those rules.

This is the reason why Taliban are supported by a massive part of the total population.

Moreover, there’s another significant segment of Afghans who, while they don’t necessarily agree with the Taliban agenda, accept them because they have brought stability and safety across the country.

Nonetheless, remember that not everyone supports them, especially Hazara people – a Shia minority – and that there are many Afghans who, while still conservative, are not happy with their extremist ideas, like banning women from higher education, for example.

💃 How to travel to Afghanistan as a women

What is the situation like for female travelers in Afghanistan?

If you are traveling with a man, it should be fine but solo female travelers will certainly have a different experience.

My friend and fellow traveler Emma Witters has traveled solo extensively across Afghanistan, including in provinces such as Helmand.

You can reach her at @emmawitters_

🛫 How to get to Afghanistan

How to travel to afghanistan by air.

Many international airlines that used to fly to Kabul like Turkish Airlines or Fly Emirates, have stopped operating in Afghanistan.

Today, you may fly to Kabul only with the Afghan-run airline of Kam Air and Fly Dubai .

Fly Dubai departs from Terminal 2 in DXB and Kam Air flights from both Islamabad and Dubai, but also occasional flights from Istanbul, Dushanbe, Taskent or Doha.

Just check flight schedules on their website.

How to travel to Afghanistan by land

Afghanistan shares a border with:

Pakistan : The Khyber Pass at Torkham is finally open but this is the most chaotic border I have ever crossed.

Iran : It’s fully operational. From the Iranian city of Mashhad, you can get into Herat. Many travelers have used this border in the past.

Turkmenistan : The border is open as long as you have valid visas but this is truly unexplored territory. I contacted a Turkmen fixer who told me that Turkmen visas are often denied if your idea is to enter or exit Afghanistan from Turkmenistan, but there’s a chance to get in.

Uzbekistan : You can get into Afghanistan from the city of Termez. Mazar-i-Sharif is the closest big city. Here you have the border crossing report .

China : Very deep into the Wakhan Corridor, at 4,923m above sea level, the Wakhir pass connects Afghanistan with China. The border is closed for foreigners and in any case, it’s just too remote to go.

Tajikistan : There are a few border crossings. Ishkashim used to be the most popular one but that one is closed now. Shir Khan, near Kunduz, is the one that is now open to foreign adventures.

👨 Independent travel in Afghanistan

Is independent travel allowed in Afghanistan?

Yes, it is, as long as you have a valid travel permit. Check the permit section of this post.

Is backpacking in Afghanistan difficult?

Well, it depends on your previous backpacking experience and where you want to go within Afghanistan but, to be honest, I didn’t find it more difficult than backpacking in Pakistan .

If you are planning to visit Mazar, Herat, Kabul or Bamyan, it shouldn’t be very difficult. There is plenty of local transportation or you can easily take a domestic flight.

My recommendation would be however, to save the name and location of your hotel because for security purposes, some hotels in Afghanistan have no signs, so they can be difficult to find.

Visiting rural areas, Kandahar province or traveling beyond Bamyan in Ghor province is a different story. Nobody speaks English, hotels are scarce (if any) and there’s little public transportation.

We did travel from Kabul to Herat through the Hindu Kush by public transportation. It was difficult but worth the adventure. Check the travel report.

⛅ Best time to visit Afghanistan

With different geographical areas, Afghanistan can be a year-round destination.

Traveling in Afghanistan season by season:

Traveling to Afghanistan in winter

In winter, many parts of Afghanistan are covered in snow, with temperatures reaching -20ºC in places like Bamyan or the Wakhan.

In my opinion, this is the prettiest season to visit Afghanistan.

Nevertheless, remember that winter doesn’t come with its own issues, and that roads and certain things may be blocked.

We did run one expedition during the heart of winter in Afghanistan, and it was great. Check our upcoming Afghan expeditions here .

Traveling to Afghanistan in spring & autumn

From a tourism perspective, spring and autumn are the best seasons for visiting Afghanistan, when the weather is pleasant across the whole country.

Nevertheless, it can be too early/late for trekking in the Wakhan Corridor.

In late spring or early autumn, it might already be too hot for Mazar or Kandahar. In fact, I visited them in May and the temperature was already at nearly 40ºC.

Traveling to Afghanistan in summer

In summer, cities like Herat, Mazar and Kandahar are hell ovens, with temperatures averaging over 40ºC.

Kabul is hot too but, because of the high altitude, it can be bearable for some.

Summer, nonetheless, is the best season for trekking along the Wakhan Corridor.

🛖 Top 5 experiences in Afghanistan

Some of the best things to do in Afghanistan are:

1. Strolling the streets of Old Kabul

The old city of Kabul is one of those places where there is always something to look at.

It’s chaotic, lively, bustling and its different bazaars are composed of labyrinthic lanes which are perfect for random rambling.

The bird market is perhaps the most acclaimed spot among travelers.

2. Trekking in Bamyan

Few places in Afghanistan feel as peaceful as Bamyan, a mountainous, remote region in central Afghanistan, home to a large ancient Buddhist heritage and some of the most epic, unspoiled mountains in the country.

If you like nature, it doesn’t get better than Bamyan.

3. Learning about the Taliban legacy in Kandahar

Kandahar is the former Taliban capital, where the Taliban movement started and also Mullah Omar’s home city.

It’s also the heartland of the Pashtun, a world apart from the rest of Afghanistan.

4. Visiting the Blue Mosque of Mazar-i-Sharif

This is one of the most imposingly beautiful mosques I have ever seen, dating from the 15th century, a reason by itself to travel all the way to Mazar.

5. Getting off the beaten track in rural Afghanistan

Afghanistan’s countryside offers some of the most unspoiled and authentic areas in the world, regions that have received very little exposure from the outside world, and are home to mesmerizing, lush valleys dotted with adobe-made villages and curious locals.

💰 Budget, money, and costs in Afghanistan

In Afghanistan, their currency is called the Afghani (AFN) and approximately:

$1 = 72 AFN

Afghani or Afghan? Some people commit the funny mistake (including myself in the past) of referring to the people of Afghanistan as Afghani. It’s wrong. Afghani is their currency and the people are Afghans.

Exchanging money in Afghanistan

I always change money at one of the many stalls in Shahr-e Naw, in Kabul.

They accept both Euros and USD. They even accept Pakistani rupees, in case you have any left from your trip to Pakistan .

ATMs in Afghanistan

Surprisingly, ATMs in Afghanistan do accept international credit and debit cards.

Just look for Afghan International Bank. There are quite a few of them in Kabul, especially in Shahr-e Naw area.

Paying by card in Afghanistan

You might be able to withdraw money from an ATM but you can’t pay by card anywhere in Afghanistan, so do have cash for your trip.

How much does it cost to travel to Afghanistan?

Everyday life in Afghanistan is cheap but domestic flights and accommodation add up.

Here’s an overview of the most typical costs.

How much do food and drinks cost in Afghanistan?

• Breakfast in a local restaurant (usually consisting of eggs, bread and tea) – 100 AFS
• Local meal in a restaurant (usually palaw rice, kebab, etc) – 200-300 AFS
• Meal in a mid-range restaurant – 400-600 AFS

How much does transportation cost in Afghanistan?

• One-way domestic flight – 60-120 USD
• Taxi within cities – 50 AFN for short taxi rides. Up to 200-250 AFN for longer ones.
• Half-day taxi in Kabul – Once, I hired a driver in Kabul for the morning to take me to a bunch of different places I had in mind. He charged me 20 USD for that.
• Taxi from the airport to city center – 500 AFN in Kabul, 300-400 AFN in Herat or Mazar.
• One-way taxi to Bamyan – 75 USD
• Round-trip taxi ride to Panjshir – 50 USD
• Local bus within the city – 5 AFN

How much does accommodation cost in Afghanistan?

Here’s the thing.

Good, decent accommodation can get pricey.

Expect to pay anything between 30 USD and 50 USD for a room, a relatively basic one but clean and with security.

You can definitely find cheaper hotels but there won’t be any kind of security.

🛺 Getting around in Afghanistan: transportation

How to travel around afghanistan by public transportation.

Afghanistan has a good network of buses, minibuses and local shared taxis connecting towns and cities.

Experienced budget backpackers won’t find it difficult to move around the country.

Read: Overlanding from Kabul to Herat via Minaret of Jam by local transportation

How to travel around Afghanistan by plane

Taking a domestic flight is also a good option for traveling around Afghanistan.

You can book your tickets online on Kam Air .

There’s another local airline named Ariana . That’s the one I use for flying from Kandahar to Kabul.

Note that airlines in Afghanistan aren’t very reliable. They get delayed all the time, especially Ariana.

Note that all domestic flights go through Kabul, and that there’s no direct flight from Herat to Mazar, for example, or from Herat to Kandahar, but you need to go through Kabul.

Typically, all flights cost $60-$120 and, if you are already in Afghanistan, I strongly recommend booking it through a physical Kam Air office.

It happened to me once that after booking a flight with Kam Air online, the booking never went through, even though they did charge it from my card. Eventually, I had to go to an actual office to sort it out.

Airport security The level of security in all Afghanistan airports is absolutely insane, consisting of several security layers with body searches and bag scans. That’s why it’s recommended to be at the airport at least two hours before your departure time.

Facts about the country, the Afghans and their culture

The islamic emirate of afghanistan.

Something interesting to mention is that when the Taliban took over, the country officially changed its name from the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan to the Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan .

They also removed any sign of the official flag – the one with black, green, and red stripes and replaced it with the Talib-friendly white flag, today visible everywhere.

Afghanistan is multi-ethnic

Afghanistan is composed of several ethnicities, including Pashtuns (42%), Tajik (27%) and Hazara (9%).

Hazara are the Shia minority who have Mongolian features, Bamyan being their heartland.

There’s also a significant population of Uzbeks in Mazer-i-Sharif and around, who mostly came from Uzbekistan escaping the terror from former dictator Islam Karimov.

Dari is the main language, but Pashto is official too

Dari is a variation from Farsi, the language spoken in Iran.

Afghans and Iranians can understand each other without a problem.

Dari is the language used by the administration and it’s spoken by nearly 80% of the population.

Pashto is an official language too but it’s usually spoken only by the Pashtuns, who are the dominant ethnicity.

Language barrier can be a problem sometimes

When traveling in rural Afghanistan across the Hindu Kush, I found communicating with people to be extremely difficult, not only because of the language barrier but even sign language didn’t work, probably because they have had so little Western exposure, that their way of communication is just completely different.

Women in Afghanistan

Afghanistan is the most patriarchal country in the world, with or without the Taliban but, since the latter returned to power, women have lost even more freedom.

It’s not mandatory for women to wear the burqa, they can wear a hijab and they can walk alone in the streets but the Taliban have banned them from accessing higher education.

I actually discussed this particular topic with a Taliban sympathizer and he said that according to Prophet Mohammed, schools must be segregated by gender so there’s no actual room for women now but the new Government is doing their best to figure it out.

What I found truly unreal is that he was actually believing all that shit.

🍲 Afghan cuisine

Located at the heart of Central Asia , Afghan food is a mixture of flavors from Iran , Afghanistan, Uzbekistan , and Tajikistan .

It’s heavily meat-based to the extent that it can be a struggle for vegetarians venturing into more rural areas.

Their national dish is Kabuli palaw, consisting of rice fried in meat fat typically topped with carrots and raisins and essentially, the same as plov in Uzbekistan.

Afghanistan also has their own dumplings named mantu , typically filled with mutton and covered with yogurt and yellow lentils.

Ashak is the only vegetarian dish in Afghan cuisine, consisting of dumplings filled with leeks and other vegetables.

Is there any alcohol in Afghanistan?

Afghanistan is a dry country, as it was before the Taliban.

📚 Best books for traveling in Afghanistan

Kite runner – khaled hosseini.

An American bestseller in 2003, Kite runner narrates the story of two Afghan kids in Kabul, a rich boy and the son of his parent’s servants.

The book also gives endless insights of what life in Kabul and Afghanistan is like.

My Life with the Taliban – Abdul Salam Zaeef

This is the mind-blowing biography of a senior former member of the Taliban.

From growing up in conservative, rural Afghanistan to the years he spent in Guantanamo, this amazing book gives priceless insights into the Taliban movement from the inside.

Afghanistan Essential Guide to Customs & Culture – Culture Smart!

Cultural Smart! is a series of guidebooks that focus on the country’s culture, giving loads of information about local customs, cultural etiquette and stuff like that. The one on Afghanistan is great, with deep explanations of why Afghans are so hospitable.

Afghanistan travel guide – Lonely Planet

The travel guide to Afghanistan from Lonely Planet is outdated (2007) but still, is a great source of information on the country. It can be difficult to find a copy.

💻 Internet in Afghanistan

Is there wi-fi in afghanistan.

There’s kind of unreliable Wi-Fi in big cities but if you need it for work, it won’t be good enough.

Getting a SIM card in Afghanistan

To buy a SIM, you’ll have to go to one of the official branches, which tend to open from 8am to 4pm.

There are many mobile companies in Afghanistan, including: Afghan Telecom, Afghan Wirless, Etisalat, MTN, Roshan, and Salaam.

Apparently, each company is only good for certain provinces but everyone was telling us different things.

In the end, I bought MTN because they said it was the best one for all Afghanistan but it only worked in the big cities.

Note that there’s no 4G but only 3G or not even that.

Get a VPN for traveling in Afghanistan

You should always use a VPN when you travel, especially when you connect to public Wi-Fi networks.

Your connection will be much safer. Moreover, you will be able to access content which is typically censored in Afghanistan.

I recommend ExpressVPN – Extremely easy to use, fast and cheap. 

❗ More Information

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All guides and articles for traveling in Afghanistan

• Visiting Kandahar
• Is Afghanistan safe?
• 50 Photos that will show you the beauty of Afghanistan
• Overlanding from Kabul to Herat via Minaret of Jam by local transportation

Travel guides to other countries in Central Asia

• Tajikistan Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Uzbekistan
• Travel Guide to Kazakhstan
• Pakistan Travel Guide
• Kyrgyzstan Travel Guide

You might also like our Haiti travel guide .

77 comments

Excelente tu guía como lo es usualmente. Hay otro blog de un argentino que dice que se puede sacar la visa también en Ankara por 30 dólares. Habrá que confirmarlo.

Thank you Joan for the clear information about Afghanistan. We also have visited Afghanistan before covid independantly. Ever since my partner wants to visit the minaret of Jam without any guide, just our two as you did.

Thanks so much, Joan, for this brilliant and comprehensive guide with so much up-to-date information.

Thanks for the great article, now I am planning to go there in march next year and now have a question because I want to well plan before go. If I get my visa in Islamabad and go to Afghanistan through Pakistan land border how could I get through taliban checkpoints to Kabul with no permit? Considering that I can only get the permits for the places I want to visit in Kabul? And is there reliable transportation if I just pop up in one of the land borders?

Hi Pedro, the Taliban permit is only needed for those provinces you’re actually stayihg, jot if you’re just going through.

There’s plenty of transportation from the border to Kabul.

Hi Pedro, the Taliban permit is only needed for those provinces you’re actually staying, jot if you’re just going through.

Hi, I have a question regarding visa. You are listing here the embassies in Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, but in the other places of the internet I see that in these both countries there are actually only embassies of the previous Afghan government. Do you have more informations or experiences on that matter? Greetings

Hi there, travelers I know say they got it there recently with no hassle, that’s all I know

Thank you, Joan! This is the most useful guide on the web right now. I’ve shared it widely. Great work. I say the following, not to judge you Joan, but so that future readers can avoid misunderstanding: The article does have one major drawback. The claim that “TLB are supported by a massive part of the total population” is not true. TLB is an oppressive, dictatorial, awful government that is systematically harassing minorities; further crippling the economy of a desperately poor country; and simply destroying the futures of the 50% of citizens unlucky enough to be women. Afghans recognize this; while there is some support among ethnic Pashtuns, people are not happy being oppressed, like this article makes it sound. As a traveler community, it is important for us to avoid contributing to propaganda and legitimacy of oppressive regimes. Since Joan is running trips here, he likely can’t publish negativity about the TLB, and that is fine. As travelers let’s avoid getting believing the story TLB are trying to tell.

Thanks so much for your feedback and note, truly appreciated, and agree with your points!

Thanks for replying, I hope I will be able to check it out in September and give an update

I’m so glad to have stumbled upon this article! Reliable and updated information about traveling is really difficult to find. I’m originally from Afghanistan but I have a German passport- both my dad and I would like to come to Afghanistan with one of your tours. We both have Afghan names and my dad’s passport mentions he is born in Kabul. Would that be a problem? I’m a bit nervous they will treat us like locals, and not really with the privileges of being a ‘foreigner”. Have you ever had travelers in the same situation? Thanks a lot for your answer!

Hi there! It won’t be an issue, there are Afghan-Americans traveling to Afghanistan nowadays, and we’d be thrilled to have you guys. Our next expedition with available spots is in February 2024.

Wow that is so interesting! I am really interested in Central Asia. Kind regards from a german travel blogger, Meike

If I just flew to Kabul from Islamabad for 3 days would I need to apply for any permits.

If you only stay in Kabul, you don’t need any permit

Dear, Joan, really great website! Thanks! You mentioned, that you can get to Afghanistan from Iran, but can you get the visa in Iran? Take care! Jan

Hi Jan, I am not sure TBH, since I haven’t heard from travelers trying there

I would like to visit Afghanistan, but… is it morally fair? Does tourism legitimate the Taliban government?

Does tourism legitimate Cuba’s government or any other dictatorship?

This article is really informative. I’m a bit unclear about your trip to afghanistan in current times, as I heard it’s not open for tourists. Could you share more details about holidays, the visa process, etc.? It would greatly help me.

I don’t know. Sincerely I don’t. I ask myself the same question, and many other questions, every time I travel. But the situation in Afghanistan is unique in the world.

You can add Doha(Qatar) to the list of embassies that give a tourist visa

Thanks a lot for the update and yes, I had heard about it too

Hi Joan, this is a great article and I’m so happy to have found it. I last visited Afghanistan in 2012 but as you mentioned travel by land was barely possible then. I will be going back next year to travel solo. Do you know how the permit system works crossing from Uzbekistan? I will spend time in Mazar and Balkh but will not have been to Kabul to collect a permit, are permits available at all in Mazar?

Hi Shaun, this is a question for which there’s no possible answer… If you are within Mazar, there shouldn’t be an issue but after Mazar, I’d head back to Kabul to get my permit. If you say you’re on your way to Kabul, it should be fine.

Hiya thanks for the clear explanation really appreciate it. Anyway i am a revert Muslims for 10 years, i was wondering how i can go about in actually moving to Afghanistan for good? Would really really appreciate a reply thanks. Peace

Hi Luis, I can advise you on traveling to Afghanistan as a tourist but not on how to actually live there

Hello Joan Torres, what an awesomely informative post you wrote! I wonder, how frequent are intercity buses? Do they have buses from Kandahar to Herat? Thanks!

Hi Celementi, buses run pretty much the whole day but since Kandahar to Herat is a good 10 to 12-hour drive, I assume they leave in the morning

Hello. I went today for permits in kabul. They are free of charge. I got permits for 5 provinces. Cheers

Thanks for the feedback. However, we also this week got 22 permits for our 2 groups, and we had to pay… I believe depends on the boss’ mood?

Hello, this is all really helpful but I find a few things confusing about this guide.

– What is meant by “1 passport photo”? As in I bring one original photograph that has been used in my passport? I just don’t get this one, especially if I give my passport copy anyway(which has the photo in it).

– The guide says that the Pakistan border crossing is the most chaotic one while the Iran one is really good. But Iran doesn’t issue visas for Afghanistan, so how is this information relevant, unless you apply for both Pakistan and Iran visa, go to Pakistan, take the Afghanistan visa, then go to Iran to cross into Afghanistan?

– It means that they require you to bring one printed passport photo. The one from your visa copy doesn’t work. – You can get your visa in other countries, not only in Islamabad. Maybe some people get it in Dubai and then fly to Iran, who knows.

This is an amazing article! If I were to travel with a 14 year old son, would it be frowned on by the Taliban? Would it be just as safe? Do you often have kids/adolescents on your tours?

Hello, I’ve never had kids in my tours. Afghanistan is a great destination but I am not sure if it would be very suitable for a 14-year old kid.

Very intersting information,you share. Thank you.

I consider overlanding Afghanistan by own car from Iran either to Pakistan or Usbekistan in June 2024.

Can you recommend a trustworthy company to assist me?

What do you need assistance with? We are a trustworthy company who organized trips in Afghanistan: https://expeditions.againstthecompass.com/destinations/afghanistan/

Hey I’m very interested in going to Afghanistan. I’ve seen a number of YouTubers visiting Afghanistan recently. One thing I noticed, is that none of them are American. Are there U.S. citizens (non Afghan-American) who have successfully toured Afghanistan under the recent Taliban control?

Hi Brian, we’ve had many Americans in the group expeditions we organize: https://expeditions.againstthecompass.com/destinations/afghanistan/

Hey there! Great article! I’m doing a bicycle trip actually and thinking about going trough Afghanistan. With wild camping and so on… Is it possible to get a Visa for AFG in Theran? What about permits? Is it possible to get them in Herat or do I have to go to Kabul for them first?

Hi Sebastian, you should be able to get an Afghan visa in Tehran nowadays.

As per general permits, rules are not written in Afghanistan, so this is a tough question to answer. What I’d do is going to the respective office in Herat as first step, and try to get your permits from other provinces from there, while explaining that you can’t go to Kabul.

Keep us posted!

Hello, I’m sorry if this question has already been asked. Do you or anybody else know of any American women that have traveled to Afghanistan? I know many other “Western” women have but how about a woman traveling with a USA passport? Thank you very much.

Hi there, there’s been many women from all skins who’ve traveled in Afghanistan last year, both solo and in groups

Hi, thanks for your great work! But I’m a bit confused: Why are you saying Afghani Visa can only be taken from those 6 cities? What about the others?

Here one guy tells that he got his Visa at the Afghani Embassy in Teheran in October 2023: https://caravanistan.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=2187&start=20

And if I look at the Website of the Afghani Embassy in Berlin they also give instruction how to get the Afghanistan Visa by them. Are they wrong?

Hi Simon, in Afghanistan, things are changing very fast… You can probably get it in Tehran now, as well as in Doha, Istanbul and a bunch of EU cities

I can’t seem to reply to a comment! This is a question for Joan and Shaun Metcalfe:

Shaun – did you manage to cross over the Uzbek-Afghan border? If so – did you obtain your travel permit in Mazar, or were you able to stay and continue travelling to Kabul by saying you were on your way there?

Joan – do you know if the embassy in Bishkek is issuing visas to non-residents? Their website specifies residents only, but I wondered if you or anyone else had any luck there!

Hello Josh, I don’t really know if they allow non-residents to apply, you’ll have to give it a chance!

Hi Joan, have you had any experience of travelling to the US and China with an Afghan visa and stamp in your passport? Do you get sent to secondary inspection or denied entry?

China is not a problem. For Afghanistan, with a EU passport, you won’t get your ETSA approved if you’ve been to Afghanistan. If you already have a USA visa, then it’s not an issue.

Hi! Was wondering whether my student visa application to the US will be denied if I have an afghanistan visa in my passport. Or, if I will get denied when I land into the US or UK with the afghan visa. I am a Malaysian citizen.

Thank you for making this blog post, really! This is literally the only accurate updated information you can find all in one place on the internet for Afghanistan. Excellent job making this and us in the travel community really appreciate this. You cannot find information like this that is easily readable anywhere else.

Thank you!!

Dears, does anybody know, how is it with getting double entry visa to Pakistan for getting Afghan visa in Peshawar and go to Kabul and back to Peshawar via Torkham.

Hey Joan, do you know if drones are allowed in Afghanistan?

Hi Owen, technicaklly they aren’t, but I’ve flown a drone in Afghanistan recently. Worst case scenario they’ll take it from you

Good article, thank you for the information. The Taliban consists of 99.9% pashtuns because their tribal code pashtunwali is pretty much the same as extreme, hard-line Islam. Hazara people being slaughtered and murdered by pashtuns for 150years since the English armed their pashtun puppet king Adbur Rahman Khan who to return the favour killed 60% of the Hazara population. Genocide that continues into modern days. No coincidence that most bomb blasts happen in Hazara areas. A quick glimpse into traditional persian/afghan culture will show you it’s colourful, artistic, poetic and full of music. Quite the opposite what the murderous regime called Taliban is enforcing at the moment. Most people go on with their every day life because finding enough food and feeding your family is a more immediate issue than who is on government. Anyway, the article has some great information thank you.

thanks for sharing your opinion, Daniel, big hug from Afghanistan!

The way you express your anger is extremely unprofessional. You not agreeing with their culture/religion or how they run things around would definitely not justify the way you give such comments about them! I feel sorry for them for being too kind to you.

Are you OK, man?

Hi, thank you for all useful articles. Please, do you have valid information about getting visa in Dubai or Abu Dhabi? Or is anyone here with the process of obtaining visa in these embassies? And I one more question, visa fee in Islamabad is still 80 USD? I got information about price 170 USD. Now little bit confused. Thank you for a reply. David

Visa in Islamabad is now 130 USD for most passports but could be up to 200 USD for Americans for example.

In Dubai, we just got it last week. You show up at the embassy and waiting time is around 1-2 hours. Things you need are: – 2 passport photos – passport copies – LOI + ID of your sponor – 130 USD for most passports, 210 USD for Americans. Price keeps changing though…

Thank you very much for your reply. Any recomendation how to get LOI? is it possible normally for example via coachsurfing or official travel agency neede? Thank you and good luck David

Hi David, only travel agency, but what do you need an LOI for? It’s not mandatory.

For those of you, that are concerned about legitimizing the Taliban government by traveling to Afghanistan, I would offer this. I asked myself the same question, but if there is one thing I have learned being a travel 1%er, what we bring to the world cannot be accomplished by any government policy, or any boycott of the special brand of love and acceptance we bring. Whatever money we spend and “accreditation” we give to a government our governments shun, is far offset by the mission. I’m bringing understanding, kindness, and a pure human experience.

thanks, Mike!

Hi Did you take the land border to return to Pakistan? And did you need the permit to cross the border? Thank you

I didn’t cross the border on my way to Pakistan but one of our customers did, and we had to issue her a permit

Hi again. So LOI + ID of your sponsor is not mandatory? Because you mentioned (things you need) when getting visa in Dubai…So please, how is it? David

Hi David, in Afghanistan, things are not written by the book, including in their embassies abroad, where different travelers have different experiences, especially when it comes to $ and the need for the LOI. Usually, LOI is not required but there’s been cases where they did. I am sorry that I can’t be more accurate, but this is how it works there.

Joan, it is OK, no worries. In the end I decided to obtain visa in Dubai. As you described, it takes a few hrs, doesn’t it? It is not necessary to make appointment in advance? Just come in the morning with all needed documents and later for collecting visa and passport? Again thanks for your useful advice…

Yes, that’s how it works

Hi Joan I don’t think it’s correct that you are painting the Taliban as peaceful leaders and they are trying to be positive because that is just not true. Yes the kidnappings are virtually inexistent, but violence against their people is increasing daily. They have just announced public stoning for women (not men) and have already been carrying out public floggings and executions. Women whose husbands have died have no way of being able to earn an income and are having to resort to measures such as drugging their children so they are sleepy and don’t cry out for food. Most people who will say they support the new regime will do so publicly because they are fearful of the repercussions of speaking out. Everyone has to make their own choice about where they travel but I would strongly encourage you to reconsider your wording about putting the Taliban in such a positive light. Certainly posing for photos with the Taliban should be strongly discouraged as this directly feeds into their propaganda. While it is true that there are many nations where is ethically questionable to go there surely one line that should not be crossed in the name of a good travel story is a nation announcing the public stoning of women?

Good guide with detailed information, however your opinions on the way they want to rule their country is irrelevant. If the population wants women and men to go to separate schools and universities, then let them do it. Much better than western schools where young people intermix and lose virginity before marriage.

You’re very funny

https://www.aljazeera.com/news/2024/5/18/three-afghans-three-spanish-tourists-killed-in-bamyan-shooting

Is Joan OK? It appeared one of the ATC tours was due at Bamyan on the 18th May and there hasn’t been much posting since the incident.

I don’t like to be the party killer type of person but someone kicked the bucket here. https://apnews.com/article/afghanistan-spain-tourists-killed-bamiyan-82dc6e766cd8f60637ab42e7fc65e316

I think that’s it for Afghanistan expeditions…

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VIDEO : Increasing number of tourists visiting Afghanistan

• X (formerly Twitter)

EMILY BAKER, REPORTER:  This is a route taken by few Australian travellers - an otherworldly landscape linking Afghanistan’s cities and towns. 

IMOGEN: Every moment I was like I hope I remember this; I hope I remember this and I better not forget this and this is so amazing.

EMILY BAKER:  Imogen and husband Arran left Australia last year with only a vague plan in mind. 

ARRAN: We bought some farmer bikes and did a few thousand kilometres in Vietnam, and then flew to Thailand to buy these bikes. And I guess it was a bit of a joke that we thought, let's ride across the world. And here we are now in Kazakhstan, 35,000 kilometres later.

EMILY BAKER:  It's an adventure that’s taken them through India, Nepal, Pakistan and Afghanistan - a country they hadn’t previously dreamed of exploring. 

IMOGEN: Talking to people in the country and talking to people that have gone, and seeing like all of the rich history that the country has, and how it's recovering after the recent war as well, it's something that we thought we really wanted to do while we had the opportunity. 

EMILY BAKER:  Most Australian tourists travel to Indonesia, New Zealand and the USA but despite the warnings, the Taliban says more Westerners are choosing Afghanistan. 

Untamed Borders has run tours in the country since 2008. 

JAMES WILLCOX, UNTAMED BORDERS:  2023, I think we had the most number of tourists. There were more people going to Afghanistan last year in general. There's just a larger community of people that want to travel to places that maybe 20 years ago would be considered to be completely off limits.

EMILY BAKER:  At least 5,000 people visited Afghanistan last year - an increase of 120 per cent on 2022. 

DR MUJIB ABID, SOUTHERN CROSS UNIVERSITY:  On the one hand, the Taliban are really invested and seek some form of legitimacy and normalization of the status quo. 

On the other hand, there is the Taliban's need, stated and quite explicit, for economic self-reliance and self-sufficiency. 

EMILY BAKER:  Imogen and Arran say the experience surpassed their expectations. 

ARRAN: I got tired looking around and trying to stop and take it all in because it's just, as Imogen said, it is just so vast. Like one day you're going over snowcapped mountain peaks, the next day you're through a sand desert. It's absolutely incredible. 

IMOGEN: There was no time that I felt particularly unsafe, definitely no more unsafe than in any other country. You know what I mean, I had poor experiences in other countries where I felt a lot more unsafe than I did in Afghanistan.

EMILY BAKER:  The Australian Government’s Smart Traveller website warns of a “very high threat of terrorism and kidnapping" saying their ability to provide assistance is “severely limited”. 

Many of Afghanistan’s 40 million people live in poverty. The situation is worst for girls and women, who have suffered severe restrictions on their movement, study and work since the Taliban returned to power in 2021. 

FATIMA HAIDARI:  It was very hard for me to decide to leave because I had everything of mine in Afghanistan, like, you know, my job, my university, I had an organisation together with 10 of my friends for female empowerment.

EMILY BAKER:  Fatima Haidari used to guide tourists in Afghanistan but had to leave when the Taliban took control.

She now provides virtual tours from afar. Her feelings on travellers visiting her country now are complex. 

FATIMA HAIDARI:  It's good for you know, Afghanistan for you know, tourists to go there to see Afghanistan, to see the people, to see how life is going there but I oppose when they promote Taliban in Afghanistan. They say like you know, how safe Afghanistan is you know, how Taliban keep everything safe. 

EMILY BAKER:  An attack last month has brought the risks into focus. Joe McDowell had travelled well-worn destinations before purchasing a tour to the country. 

JOE MCDOWELL:  It reminded me very much of Kashmir in the north of India, and that was one of the areas that I liked the most. 

The unanimous response to the comment ‘I’m going to Afghanistan’ was pretty much why are you going and are you crazy?

EMILY BAKER:  His group spent their first day touring Kabul mosques and markets, rubbing shoulders with the locals. On day two, they wound their way to Bamyan.

Inside this market the tour turned deadly – a gunman opened fire on the travellers. 

JOE MCDOWELL:  As I was running away, I felt, I felt something slap my, slap my ass. I rolled under the car that I was standing next to. It was at that point that I'd had a few seconds for the, for the brain to catch up. But I sort of felt like this is, I've got no more. I got no more moves here. I'm trapped. I'm stuck.

EMILY BAKER:  Six people were killed in the terror attack later claimed by Islamic State. Joe escaped with a gunshot wound and after a stay in hospital returned home to Australia. 

The event was physically and emotionally traumatic – but he hasn’t ruled out a return. 

JOE MCDOWELL:  Once the memories start to fade, if they fade, and the pain fades, then and you watch the political situation there and nothing happens, yeah, maybe but, but I can't answer that. 

The weird weekends are on the backburner at the moment. Europe and New Zealand for me for the next couple of months.

EMILY BAKER:  Arran and Imogen’s journey reinforced to them why so many of us travel in the first place – connection.

ARRAN: Whoever is in control of Afghanistan, that doesn't encompass the whole population, not everyone is out to push these radical ideas on people. 

There's a whole group of people, women and children and fathers, husbands that just want to be Afghani and just want to show that their culture is one of the best in the world.

Most Australian travellers choose to spend their holidays in relative comfort – think skiing in New Zealand or lounging in Bali. But, undeterred by harsh warnings, it appears a small but growing number of people are choosing to visit a place effectively closed off to tourists for decades: Afghanistan.

Tonight, Emily Baker speaks to Australians who have visited the country since the Taliban took control.

• Afghanistan
• Travel and Tourism (Lifestyle and Leisure)

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Despite government advice some Australians are holidaying in Afghanistan as the Taliban eye legitimacy

Afghanistan.

In recent times it conjures images of warfare, crippling poverty and horrors perpetrated against women and minorities by a repressive regime.

But in a play for legitimacy in the eyes of the rest of the world, the Taliban, which returned to power in 2021, is looking to reignite the nation's tourism industry.

The Taliban claims tourist numbers are on the rise, boasting a 120 per cent increase year-on-year to welcome more than 5,000 travellers in 2023.

It's a development watched closely by Southern Cross University academic Dr Mujib Abid, who said tourism was viewed as a pathway to legitimacy and economic self-sufficiency within the "pariah state".

"It has, by the looks of it, invested rather heavily or remarkably, including even opening a tourism and hospitality institute in Kabul and publicly welcoming tourists from far and wide to the country," Dr Abid said.

Despite government advice to the contrary, some Australians are taking up the invitation.

'People happy to see foreigners'

In the past 12 months, Brisbane couple Arran and Imogen have been riding motorbikes through Asia, where they heard other travellers' positive experiences of visiting Afghanistan.

"Talking to people that have gone, and seeing all of the rich history that the country has, and how it's recovering after the recent wars, it's something that we thought we really wanted to do while we had the opportunity," Imogen told 7.30.

After some early nerves — Australia does not have diplomatic representation in Kabul, a reality that left the couple feeling initially "isolated" — their 10-day journey across Afghanistan went off without a hitch, taking in stunning landscapes and enjoying local hospitality as they rode their way through to Europe.

"It's really, really eye-opening to drive through these areas and see people living in the remnants of war, but just inviting us in for tea," Arran said.

"Whoever is in control of Afghanistan, that doesn't encompass the whole population … there's a whole group of people, women and children and fathers, husbands that just want to be Afghan and just want to show that their culture is one of the best in the world."

Imogen said she was generally met with curiosity as a woman on a motorbike.

"I had poor experiences in other countries where I felt a lot more unsafe than I did in Afghanistan," she said.

"People are really happy to see foreigners around, they're really happy to see new people around, and generally, they were really kind to us."

Lure of social media

James Willcox has been running tours in Afghanistan with his UK-based company Untamed Borders since 2008. He said while it was difficult to compare bookings from recent years, given the regime change and COVID, 2023 was one of his company's busiest yet.

He said their customers were diverse but were usually English-speaking and well-travelled. He attributed part of the recent rise in interest to travel bloggers on social media showing a different perspective on the country.

"[Twenty years ago] if there wasn't a Lonely Planet, or a Rough Guide, then certain parts of the world were seen only where journalists and documentary makers and professional people went, and I think that's changed," Mr Willcox said.

Fatima Haidari was a tour guide with Untamed Borders until the Taliban took Kabul in 2021.

She's believed to have been the only woman who was guiding at that time.

"There were days I was afraid, I was scared, but I think nothing could have stopped me because one part of the job I was doing was so good and joyful," she said.

As a high-profile woman, having appeared in international media, the now-25-year-old felt she had to leave Afghanistan for her safety once the Taliban returned to control.

She now offers virtual tours from her new home in Italy, with part of the proceeds supporting girls' education in her home country, and has mixed feelings about tourists visiting her homeland.

She said she did not want Afghanistan and its people to be isolated from the rest of the world, but did not support tourists posing for photos with Taliban or otherwise softening the image of the regime by claiming they have made the country safer.

"I have friends who have been [in Taliban prisons] but once they're released they're not OK, and I know, for example, women who have been even killed there," she said.

"Tourists who go there … I think it's good, but trying to normalise Taliban is somehow betraying all the people out there in Afghanistan who suffer from [the] presence of Taliban."

Dr Abid, an Afghan-Australian, said the issue was complex.

"From the perspective of Afghans, you can see why there is immense value in [tourists visiting Afghanistan]," he said.

"There is a need for them to see another side of the world outside Afghanistan, one that is a foreign face that is not holding an M16 and running around in an armoured vehicle."

But he added tourists enjoyed freedoms not given to all local people.

"The Taliban have passed edicts that bar women from entering parks and picnic areas, including the Band-e Amir National Park, and there's something quite violent and contradictory in there about what our visit could potentially mean for the status, for the wellbeing and for the prospects for liberation of Afghan women," Dr Abid said.

Australian tourist shot

The Department of Foreign Affairs' Smart Traveller website is clear: the Australian government warns against travel to Afghanistan, and with no Australian officials in the country, its ability to provide assistance is "severely limited".

The warning gave West Australian Joe McDowell pause for thought after booking a tour to the country — but, he reasoned, it also urged caution when travelling to places like Dubai and the UK, which he considered relatively safe.

His friends weren't so sure.

"The unanimous response to the comment, 'I'm going to Afghanistan,' was pretty much, 'Why are you going?' and 'Are you crazy?'" Mr McDowell said.

"I know that it's just come out of war only three years ago … a lot of people would think that that's strange, but that's also part of the reason I wanted to go: because it's a strange place, it's different."

His 10-day tour started last month in the capital, Kabul, where his 17-person group toured mosques and markets. On day two, they wound their way to the city of Bamiyan, which was home to historic statues of Buddha before they were destroyed by the Taliban in 2001.

The group was at a market having photos taken for national parks passes when a gunman opened fire on them.

Mr McDowell said it took time for his brain to catch up to what was happening, initially processing the gunshots as firecrackers or something solid falling on the market floor.

"I just ran away, and as I was running away I felt something slap my ass, and then I looked around to see he was still standing about three or four metres away from our car where he was shooting it," Mr McDowell said.

Bleeding, he took cover beneath the car, the gunman's feet next to his face.

"It was at that point that I'd had a few seconds for the brain to catch up, but I sort of felt like this is it, I've got no more moves here," Mr McDowell said.

"I'm trapped. I'm stuck. And if he bends down and shoots under the car, I can't run, I can't move.

"Fortunately, for whatever reason, he didn't squat down."

Six people were killed and at least five others injured in the attack, which was later claimed by Islamic State. After a stay in a Kabul hospital, Mr McDowell returned home to Perth, where he is recovering well .

He did not rule out a return to Afghanistan in the future but said the "weird weekends" were on the backburner until the pain subsided.

"I don't know if it changes my perception of Afghanistan," Mr McDowell said.

"I was hoping to go there to get a bit of a better feel for Afghanistan, a feel for the Taliban, a feel for the local people."

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