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Best Short-Travel Full-Suspension Mountain Bikes – 100 to 130mm

Ibis Ripley – One of the most iconic short-travel playbikes available.

Trail and Cross-Country mountain bikes offer limitless fun on various terrains. There are quite a few different mountain bike types out there, but in this review – we’ll be focusing on the lighter end of the spectrum, bikes that are considered as short travel full-suspension mountain bikes.

• You may also like:   15 Best Full-Suspension Mountain Bikes to Consider

Best Short-Travel Full-Suspension Mountain Bikes

1 . orbea – oiz h20.

Best XC Full-Suspension Mountain Bike

Aluminum / 12-Speed Shimano Deore  / 29×2.35″

MSRP: $3,599 Jenson USA

Fork : Fox 32 Float Rhythm, 120mm travel Shock : Fox i-Line DPS Performance, 120mm travel Wheels : Orbea OC1 25c

The Orbea Oiz H20 is a sleek full-suspension XC bike built for speed and efficiency. With a premium aluminum frame, quality components, and World Cup geometry, you’ll be smashing your PRs with the Oiz in no time. 

It’s ideally suited to cross-country or long-distance trail riding, with a 12-speed Shimano Deore/XT groupset that includes a 10-51T cassette.

Fox provides both the I-Line DPS Performance shock and the 32 Float Rhythm fork. To complement the lightweight Orbea OC1 rims, you get 29×2.35″ Rekon Race EXO tires.

Head tube angle: 68º / Seat tube angle: 74º / Chainstay: 435mm

Buy on Jenson USA

2 . Santa Cruz Bicycles – Blur C S

MSRP : $5,549 Evo.com

Fork: RockShox SID SL Select 100mm travel Rear Shock: RockShox SIDLuxe Select+ 100mm travel Wheels:  RaceFace AR Offset 29″

The Santa Cruz Blur is the famous MTB brand’s race-ready XC bike, designed to be lightweight, fast, and efficient. 

The Blur C S uses Santa Cruz’s more affordable carbon grade, which has excellent stiffness and strength characteristics that help maximize power transfer.

A 100mm travel RockShox SidLuxe Select+ shock is enhanced by a patented SuperLight suspension linkage that keeps the weight low but enhances rear-end traction on trickier sections. 

This build comes with a SRAM GX Eagle 12-speed, 10-50T drivetrain with Level TL hydraulic disc brakes. Other notable components include the fast-rolling Maxxis Aspen 2.4″ tires, an SDG Tellis dropper for extra descending control, and lightweight RaceFace AR Offset rims. 

Pick the Santa Cruz Blur C S if you’ve got lofty XC ambitions and the budget to match. 

Buy on evo.com

3 . Pivot – Mach 4 SL Ride

Carbon / 12-Speed Shimano XT/SLX / 29×2.2″

MSRP: $6,199 Competitive Cyclist

Fork : Fox Float 34 Performance Step-cast 120mm  Shock : Fox Performance Float DPS 100mm  Wheels : DT Swiss X1900 alloy

The Pivot Mach 4 SL Ride is a sleek full-suspension XC MTB by a lesser-know but high-end MTB manufacturer, perfect for racers who want top performance.

The full carbon frame is incredibly light and strong, built for 29″ wheels and DW-Link suspension that perfects anti-squat characteristics for a snappy, responsive feel and extra traction. This model comes with race-ready 2.2″  Maxxis Ardent Race EXO tires.

The Mach 4 SL Ride has 100mm rear and 120mm fork suspension. In addition, you’ll have ample gearing from the 12-speed Shimano XT/SLX drivetrain. Thankfully, Pivot includes a Fox Transfer Performance Elite  dropper post with 100 to 150mm travel depending on the size. 

Choose the Pivot Mach 4 if you want to take your XC riding to the next level with a bike that’s ready for aggressive riding. 

Buy from Competitive Cyclist

4 . Niner – Jet RDO 4-Star

Carbon / 12-Speed Shimano XT / 29×2.6″

MSRP: $6,799 Jenson USA

Fork : Fox 34 Float Factory GRIP2 EVOL 130mm travel Shock : Fox Float X Factory EVOL 120mm travel Wheels : DT Swiss XM-1700 Spline 30

One of the more expensive offerings on our list, this Niner full-suspension mountain bike is a burly trail/XC bike with modern trail geometry and top-quality parts.

The RDO Carbon frame features Niner’s CVA suspension platform, integrated protection, and 2.6″ tire clearance. The 130mm travel Fox Float Factory fork and 120mm Float X Factory shock provide a plush feel on rough trails while the CVA design improves the pedaling efficiency of the system. 

A 12-speed Shimano XT drivetrain comes with RaceFace Next R carbon cranks and a 10-51T cassette. 180mm rotor XT hydraulic disc brakes round out the groupset.

An unusual inclusion is the Schwalbe Nobby Nic Addix Speedgrip 2.6″ tires which are very versatile and tough but add a little more weight. Finally, you have a KS Lev SI dropper with 100 or 150mm of travel. 

Choose the Jet RDO 4-Star if you want a highly-capable trail/XC bike with innovative design features, solid components, and long-lasting quality. 

Head tube angle: 66.5º / Seat tube angle: 76º / Chainstay: 430mm

5 . Rocky Mountain – Element Alloy 30

Aluminum / 12-Speed Shimano Deore  / 29×2.4″

MSRP: $3,089 Jenson USA

Fork : RockShox Recon Gold 130mm Shock : RockShox Deluxe Select+ 120mm travel Wheels : WTB ST Light i27 TCS 2.0 TR 29″ (27.5″ on XS frame)

The 29″ Rocky Mountain Element Alloy 30 is a cross-country/trail MTB with a do-it-all personality.

The FORM alloy frame has relatively aggressive trail geometry which pairs well with a RockShox Recon Gold 130mm fork, Deluxe Select+ 120mm shock, and Toonie Drop dropper post for confident riding on most trails. 

The groupset includes Shimano’s Deore M6100 drivetrain with a  10-51T cassette with MT4100 hydraulic disc brakes. This setup and Maxxis Rekon 2.4 makes climbing easier and descending safer. 

Head tube angle: 65º / Seat tube angle: 76º / Chainstay: 436mm

6 . Yeti – SB120 T1

Turq-Series Carbon / SRAM X01/GX Eagle / 29×2.5/2.3″

MSRP: $8,200 Jenson USA

Fork : Fox Factory 34 GRIP2 130mm  Shock : Fox Factory Float DPS 120mm Wheels : DT Swiss XM1700

The SB120 is a Yeti full-suspension MTB focused on cross-country and trail riding. This bike has an eye-watering price but has the spec and performance to match.

The Yeti SB120 T1 is built for speed and versatility with 29″ wheels and modern trail geometry. This is balanced by confidence-inspiring and premium 2.5/2.3″ Maxxis Minion DHF/Aggressor EXO tires. 

A blended SRAM groupset consists of a 12-speed, 10-52t X01/GX drivetrain that provides reliable and durable performance and G2 RSC four-piston hydraulic disc brakes. The wide gear ratio allows for easy hill climbs while powerful brakes ensure safe descents.

Consider the SB120 T1 if you want a high-end trail bike for tackling a wide variety of trails. 

Head tube angle: 66.5º / Seat tube angle: 76.5º / Chainstay: 433-443mm

7 . Co-op Cycles – DRT 3.3

A reliable, affordable XC bike

Aluminum / 12-Speed Shimano SLX / 27.5 or 29 x2.4″

MSRP:   $3,299 REI

Fork : RockShox Revelation Motion Control RC 120 or 130mm Shock : RockShox Deluxe Select+ 120 or 130mm Wheels : WTB ST Light i30 TCS

The DRT 3.3 is a cross-country bike with plenty to offer beginner or intermediate XC mountain bikers. It features progressive wheel sizing and suspension travel based on frame size, Airsprung RockShox suspension, and premium Maxxis High Roller or Dissector tires. 

This bike has a lightweight but strong aluminum frame that helps keep the price down without sacrificing too much performance. This is boosted by a Shimano SLX 12-speed with a 10-51t climbing cassette and powerful Shimano SLX disc brakes for controlled descending. 

Head tube angle: 66/67°   /   Seat tube angle: 75°   /   Chainstay length: 433/441mm

Buy on REI.com

8 . Juliana – Wilder C R TR

MSRP : $4,899 Evo.com

Fork: RockShox SID RL 120mm travel Rear Shock: Fox Float Performance DPS 115mm travel Wheels: RaceFace AR Offset 

Julianna’s Wilder is a race-ready trail bike designed to tackle the toughest trails with confidence. As Santa Cruz’s women-specific brand, Julianna takes advantage of its VPP suspension system to provide the Wilder with unbeatable suspension performance.

Large 29″ RaceFace AR rims and slack geometry allow you to roll over any obstacle on the trail. In addition, female-tailored geometry and a Carbon C frame ensure the Wilder is painless to maneuver.

Finally, this bike is built on an SRAM NX Eagle drivetrain and paired with grippy Maxxis Rekon Race tires and powerful SRAM Level T hydraulic disc brakes to ensure smooth climbing ability and controlled descending. 

Buy on Evo.com

9 . Marin – Rift Zone 1

Best value full-suspension mountain bike

Series 3 Aluminum / 11-Speed Shimano Deore / 29×2.3″

MSRP: $1,899 Jenson USA

Fork : RockShox Recon Silver RL 130mm Shock : X-Fusion O2 Pro R 125mm Wheels : Marin Aluminum Double-Wall

The Rift Zone is a 29-inch trail mountain bike designed for speed over fast, flowy trails.

Multi-Trac suspension improves big hit absorption and delivers a more efficient pedaling platform for the 130mm RockShox Recon Silver RL fork and a 125mm X-Fusion O2 Pro R rear shock.

Vee Tire Crown Gem 29×2.3″ tires are durable but lack some grip in the corners and are slightly slow for this type of bike.

The Rift Zone 1 runs a typical 11-speed Shimano Deore drivetrain with Shimano MT201 hydraulic disc brakes and is finished off with a budget alloy seatpost instead of a dropper.

This is a solid XC/trail bike that offers excellent value for money in the entry-level category of full-sus bikes. 

Head tube angle: 65.5º / Seat tube angle: 76º / Chainstay: 425mm

  Buy on JensonUSA.com

10 . Norco – Fluid FS 2

MSRP: $2,499 Jenson USA

Fork : RockShox 35 Silver R, 130mm travel Shock : RockShox Deluxe Select, 120mm travel Wheels : Stan’s NoTubes Flow D 

The Norco Fluid is a full-suspension mountain bike with an innovative progressive frame design for enhanced fit and performance. It features 130mm of front travel and 120mm in the rear, with a reliable Shimano Deore 12-speed drivetrain and matching Shimano MT420 hydraulic disc brakes.

Norco chose Stan’s NoTubes Flow D rims with Maxxis Dissector 2.4″ tires for their excellent grip and durability. For a seatpost, you can rely on an X-Fusion Manic dropper. Every detail is accounted for on the Fluid FS 2, making it an excellent value trail bike.

Head tube angle: 66º / Seat tube angle: 76º / Chainstay: 431mm

Buy from JensonUSA.com

11 . GT – Sensor Sport

Aluminum / MicroSHIFT Advent X, 10-Speed / 29 x 2.3″

MSRP: $2,300

Fork : RockShox Recon Silver, 140 mm Shock : X-Fusion 02 Pro RL 130mm travel Wheels : WTB Aluminum rims

The GT Sensor Sport is a full-suspension trail mountain bike designed to handle almost any trail out there .

This bike can smash climbs and thunder down descents with ease thanks to GT’s LTS rear linkage technology which soaks up trail chatter and improves traction.

The lightweight, durable aluminum frame is fitted with a RockShox Recon Silver RL 140 mm fork and an X-Fusion 02 Pro RL 130 mm shock which offer decent performance for this price range. 

This bike takes rolls along smoothly and corners confidently with 29″ wheels wrapped in WTB Breakout 2.3″ tires. Finally, you can rely on a MicroSHIFT Advent X  10-Speed drivetrain for smooth shifting and powerful but inconsistent Tektro HD-M275 hydraulic brakes. 

Head tube angle: 65.5º / Seat tube angle: 76º / Chainstay: 435mm

Buy from Jenson USA

12 . Alchemy Bikes – Arktos 120

Carbon / 12-Speed Shimano XT / 29×2.3″

MSRP: from $4,699 Alchemy Bikes

Fork : Fox 34 29 Factory Kashima 130mm travel Shock : Fox DPX2 Factory Kashima EVOL 120mm travel Wheels : Industry Nine 29 Enduro S Hydra

The Alchemy Bikes Arktos 120 is a full-suspension XC/trail mountain bike that’s perfect for riders who enjoy charging uphill and thundering down descents.

The Alchemy carbon frame is ultra-lightweight and laterally stiff, and the seat tube allows longer dropper posts like the stock Fox Factory 175mm Transfer dropper.

The Arktos runs on Alchemy’s patented Sine Suspension dual-linkage platform. This system provides next-level performance through enhanced efficiency on climbs and improved handling and traction on chunky descents. The 130mm and 120mm Fox Factory Kashima suspension soaks up all but the most aggressive hits.

The Arktos 120 comes with a choice of three 12-speed groupsets (Shimano XT or SRAM GX/X01). Each has a hill-crushing cassette and 180mm-rotor hydraulic discs. Finally,  burly Industry Nine enduro rims are fitted with Maxxis Minion DHF and DHR 29×2.3 tires, providing plenty of capability but adding some extra weight. 

Consider the Arktos if you want high-end performance and an award-winning carbon frame at a reasonable price. 

Head tube angle: 65.75-66.5-º / Seat tube angle: 77.75-78.5º / Chainstay: 437mm

Buy on Alchemy Bikes

13 . Pivot – Trail 429 Pro

Carbon / SRAM X0 Eagle / 29×2.4″

MSRP: $9,900

Fork : Fox Factory 36 GRIP2 140mm travel Shock : Fox Factory Float X, 130mm travel Wheels : Reynolds Blacklabel carbon

Pivot Cycles is a relatively new bicycle company that has already won awards for its innovative design.

This can be seen on its Trail 429 Pro 29er full-suspension trail/XC bike, a lightweight carbon beast with top-level parts. It’s a professional XC bike for advanced riders, with modern trail geometry in the low flip-chip setting that provides confidence on steep descents. 

The suspension is tight, with a Fox Factory 36 140mm fork up front and 130mm Factory Float X shock on the rear. The DW-Link platform and carbon fiber build kit allow you to get more power from each pedal stroke, making this a highly efficient climber. 

Using the 12-speed SRAM X0, 10-52t drivetrain you get perfect shifting every time and plenty of gears for steep grades. In addition, the Trail 429 has powerful four-piston SRAM G2 RSC hydraulic disc brakes. 

Don’t miss out on the Pivot Trail 429 Pro if you’ve got a huge budget and want unbeatable trail performance to match. 

Head tube angle: 66-66.5º / Seat tube angle: 75-75.5º / Chainstay: 430-432mm

Buy from Mike's Bikes

14 . Santa Cruz Bicycles – Tallboy R

Aluminum / 12-Speed SRAM NX Eagle / 29×2.4″

MSRP: $4,199

Fork : FOX Rhythm 34, 130mm travel Shock : Fox Float DPS Performance, 120mm travel Wheels : Race Face AR Offset 30

The Tallboy is of the most popular Santa Cruz full-suspension Mountain Bikes and this version has a tighter, more grounded feel, perfect for attacking bumpy terrain at high speed.

With the Santa Cruz Flip-Chip upper link, you can fit 29″ or 27.5″ rims and tires, although it comes standard with 29×2.4″Maxxis Dissector/Rekon EXO tires on Race Face AR Offset 30 rims.

The 12-speed SRAM NX Eagle groupset runs a wide-ratio 11-50T cassette for easy climbing and includes SRAM Guide T four-piston hydraulic disc brakes.

It’s finished off with a Burgtec Enduro MK3 stem, handlebar, SDT Tellis dropper, and Cane Creek 10 IS integrated headset.

Head tube angle: 65.7º / Seat tube angle: 76.8-76º / Chainstay: 436mm

15 . Juliana – Joplin 4 C R

Carbon C / 12-Speed SRAM NX Eagle /  29×2.4″

MSRP: $5,299 Evo.com

Fork : RockShox Pike Base 130mm Shock : Fox Float Performance DPS 120mm travel Wheels : Raceface AR Offset 30

The Juliana Joplin is a women’s full-suspension trail/XC mountain bike built for speed.

The premium Santa Cruz Carbon C frame is fitted with a RockShox Pike Base fork with 130mm of travel and a Float Performance DPS 120mm rear shock. These components are enhanced by the tailored lower-link VPP suspension that improves pedaling efficiency and traction. 

The drivetrain is a 12-speed SRAM NX Eagle with an 11-50t cassette for steep climbs and for braking you have SRAM Guide T hydraulic discs.

Finally, the Juliana Joplin 4 C R has an SDG Tellis dropper and 2.4″ Maxxis Dissector/Rekon 3C MaxxTerra EXO tires to provide confidence when descending on fast, chunky trails. 

Choose this women’s mountain bike if you love days on the trails with lots of elevation gain and a variety of trails. 

Head tube angle: 65.7º / Seat tube angle: 76-76.7º / Chainstay: 430-433mm

16 . Ibis – Ripley AF

🏆 Best all-around mountain bike for every terrain

Aluminum / 12-Speed Shimano Deore / 29×2.4″

MSRP: $3,799 Jenson USA

Fork : Fox Float 34 Performance, 130mm travel Shock : Fox Performance Float DPS, 120mm travel Wheels : Blackbird Send Alloy Max Clearance 2.6″

Coming in at just under $4,000, this is one of those bikes that outperforms its price tag. Straight off the bat, the 12-speed Shimano Deore groupset is impressive with hydraulic disc brakes. 

Naturally, it has a premium quality aluminum frame with superb DW-Link suspension technology, offering 120mm of rear travel from Fox Performance Float DPS shock. With a similar kit upfront, you get 130mm of travel on the Float 34 fork, and it’s all rounded off with Blackbird rims and 2.4″ Maxxis  DHR II and Dissector tires. 

 Head Tube Angle: 65.5º / Seat Tube Angle: 76º / Chainstay length: 432mm

17 . Yeti – SB115 C2

CARBON C1 BIKE

Available in 3 designs

Carbon / 12-speed SRAM GX Eagle / 29×2.5″, 2.3″

MSRP: $6,200 Competitive Cyclist

Another top-class mountain bike from Yeti , this combination XC and trail bike attacks both the hills and the drops with equal vigor and aggression. The lightweight carbon frame combined with the 12-speed SRAM GX Eagle 10-52T cassette makes easy work of hills, while the Switch Infinity rear suspension technology combined with 130mm travel on the Fox Performance fork makes downhills a breeze.

You get added support from a thick 2.5″ Maxxis Minion DHF front tire and 2.3″ Aggressor on the rear, wrapped around DT Swiss rims. Oh and let’s not forget the Fox Transfer dropper seat post for added ease and enjoyment!

Head tube: 67.6 / Seat Tube: 74.1 / Chainstay: 437mm

Buy on Competitive Cyclist

18 . Santa Cruz Bicycles – Blur

Carbon C / 12-Speed Shimano XT / 29×2.4″

MSRP: $6,599

Fork : RockShox Sid SL Select+ 100mm travel Shock : RockShox SidLuxe Select+ 100mm travel Wheels : Race Face ARC Offset 27

The race-ready Blur XC bike from Santa Cruz is designed for fast riding on cross-country trails.

The SuperLight suspension linkage combined with a 100mm RockShox Sid SL Select+ fork and SidLuxe Select+ shock provides plenty traction on the rougher stuff.

Fast-rolling 29er wheels, Maxxis Aspen 2.4″ XC racing tires, a stiff and lightweight carbon frame, and agile geometry give the Blur its high-performance personality. 

The groupset is a 12-speed Shimano XT with four-piston hydraulic disc brakes and plenty of gearing from the 10-51t cassette. 

Consider the Santa Cruz Blur if you’re ready to take your XC rides to the next level. 

Head Tube Angle: 65.7-65.4 / Seat Tube Angle: 77.5-76.8 / Chainstays: 423-433mm

Buy on Mike's Bikes   

19 . Cannondale – Habit Carbon 1 

MSRP: $5,500 Planet Cyclery

Every XC rider comes across an unexpectedly steep descent every now and again, leaving them in a precarious situation with an inadequate bike. The Cannondale Habit Carbon 1 rises to this challenge, offering an XC-specific bike that can tackle steep downhills with confidence.

It achieves this with the addition of a Cannondale DownLow dropper post combined with Cannondale’s Proportional Response Tuned suspension system. The RockShox Pike Select+ 140mm fork has slightly longer than usual travel for an XC bike, with the 130mm RockShox Super Deluxe Select+ rear shock to match. A wide-range SRAM GX Eagle drivetrain with a 10-52t cassette and SRAM G2 RSC hydraulic disc brakes make up a solid mountain-ready groupset that can tackle climbs and descents with ease.

HT: 66° / ST: 74.5° / Chainstay: 435mm

Buy on Planet Cyclery

20 . Evil – Following LS GX

MSRP: $6,450 evo.com

Evil Bikes is known for making high-quality mountain bikes that push the boundaries of design and innovation. The ‘Following’ is its versatile XC offering – a high-speed MTB with 29″ wheels, semi-compact geometry, and mid-range travel that can tackle unusually harsh conditions 

The proprietary DELTA suspension system and RockShox Deluxe Ultimate RCT shock are both highly tunable to adapt to varying conditions so if you feel like doing some downhill riding, simply adjust it to your needs and hit the trails. On this version of Evil’s Following, SRAM provides decent 12-speed gearing and instant braking with its mid-level GX Eagle groupset and G2 RS disc brakes.

Where Can You Ride a Short-Travel Mountain Bike?

Short travel mountain bikes are ideal all-rounder bicycles for fast and zippy trails, whether it is flat or hilly.

Downhill mountain bikes with lots of travel are ideal for extremely rough terrain with big drops and large obstacles but provide a disadvantage on flatter terrain. 

The less stiff your suspension is, the more speed you lose when riding fast on flat terrain. So you need to choose a bike that best suits the type of riding you intend to do. For most All-mountain, Cross-country, and Trail riding, you shouldn’t need more travel than 100-130mm. MTB bikes with travel between 140-180mm are intended for intense downhill and enduro-style riding.

Of course, many of these bikes have adjustable suspension, so in some cases, you can change it for the terrain of that day. However, if you don’t intend on ever tackling extreme downhills, big jumps, or huge drops, then there is no need to spend the extra on advanced suspension with unnecessarily long travel.

Other Factors to Keep in Mind

Carbon vs. aluminum: which is better.

Which is better: Carbon or Aluminum for a full-sus. MTB? Well, carbon has taken over the whole cycling industry for a while by now, and it is not different from the mountain bike scene. As carbon-tubing gets better each year, there is a reason why mountain bikers prefer carbon over aluminum. Carbon simply has the right ‘feel’ to the whole ride, while providing enough durability and ways to form a bike.

Tires & Tire Pressure

It is recommended to use more air in the rear tire when on trails.

• 29″ – 18-28 psi. Plus-size tires or on wider wheels (Ibis) can be run on lower,11-18 psi range
• 27.5″ (650b) – 16-30 psi.

Lowering your tire pressure means you create more contact with the ground so if you have thin tires, less pressure will provide more grip. However, while this may be a bit more comfortable offroad it comes at the sacrifice of speed on flatter ground. Depending on your weight, you should try to find a perfect balance that isn’t too low or too hard.

Tubeless tires can usually run lower pressure since there is no tube to pinch. Similarly, wider rims can also accommodate lower tire pressure. These are all factors to consider when pumping your tires.

Suspension set-up

You should always tune your suspension correctly to accommodate your weight and riding style. This can be done by rocking up and down on the bike to measure your ‘sag’ rate and then adjusting the air or spring pressure accordingly.

If you’re going to be hitting big jumps or drops, you’ll need a wider, looser suspension to take heavy impact. If you’re riding mostly flat trails, you’ll want it stiffer so you don’t over-compress and lose speed on each little bump.

Compression / Sag / Rebound

The Sag, as mentioned earlier, is important to measure and set accordingly before heading out on the trails. Once that’s done, set the rebound damping by pushing on the front suspension and seeing if you get any ‘bounce’. Tighten it until it only rebounds once, doesn’t bounce up and down.

For the compression settings, you’ll need to specify them according to your riding style. Different shocks have different settings, so it’s down to your style and preference. Basically, add more compression damping if you want tighter traction on corners, or less if you want more absorption on big drops.

Rider Weight

It’s important to get the correct weight distribution on a full-suspension bike otherwise you could injure yourself on the trails. The longer wheelbase a bike has, the more stable it will be, so heavier riders should consider this factor. 

Bottom bracket height is also important, as the higher the less stability you get but it can’t be too close to the ground either for obvious safety reasons. Generally, these measurements can all be perfected for you in-store when you buy a new bike. It’s always a good idea to have a professional fit your bike for you.

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Results have arrived, mtb travel - how much mtb suspension travel do you need what does it mean.

Do you want more suspension travel or less? How do you know how much you need? Here's how to decide whether a long-travel or short-travel MTB is better for you and your trails.

Written by: Bruce Lin

Published on: Mar 9, 2022

Posted in: MTB

You’re going to a big, important party, but you’re iffy about the dress code. Would you rather show up overdressed or underdressed?

A lot of mountain bikers face a similar dilemma, but instead of choosing the right clothes, it’s about choosing the right bike. You've probably heard certain bikes described as “too much bike” or “not enough bike.” But what does that mean?

In mountain biking, suspension travel often receives the most attention when riders are looking at bike specs. Depending on your skill, riding style, and terrain, there is likely an ideal amount of suspension travel. Other specs such as geometry , wheels , and tires  matter too, but they are usually tailored to match a bike's suspension.

Most modern mountain bikes will have somewhere between 100mm and 170mm of suspension travel. This covers everything from cross-country race machines to versatile mid-travel trail bikes to hard-hitting enduro bikes . (If you want to learn more about how mountain bikes are categorized check out our Mountain Bike Buyer’s Guide .)

So what's the right amount of travel for you?

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MTB travel basics: what is travel on a mountain bike?

In case you're new to riding, mountain bike suspension travel is a measurement of how much a wheel can move to absorb bumps. On the front, mountain bike travel comes from your suspension fork. At the rear, MTB travel is provided by some configuration of frame pivots that compress a rear shock.

When to choose a long-travel MTB

Long-travel bikes usually have 150-170mm of rear travel to handle tough downhill trails. Front travel often matches rear travel but sometimes can be more.

Trail and enduro bikes fall into this category. They absorb big hits and smooth out rough terrain. If you regularly ride steep or gnarly trails, a bike like this makes a lot of sense. 

If you're mostly riding mellow flow trails though, a big and burly long-travel bike might be overkill. You won't be able to use all the suspension travel you paid for. The bike may feel cumbersome, maybe a bit boring, and you’ll have to expend more energy to push it around and climb uphill.

But let’s say you lack confidence on descents. A more capable enduro bike with ample suspension travel could help you enjoy riding more by increasing your confidence, comfort, and giving you more margin for error. 

Some ride big and burly bikes everywhere because they're fit enough to pedal a long-travel bike up big climbs and on long rides without much trouble. For them, being overbiked isn't a handicap, and it's worth it for when the trail gets gnarly. If you care more about descending as fast as possible more than having a bike that's efficient for pedaling or climbing, long-travel bikes will cater more to your style.

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When to choose a short-travel MTB

Short-travel bikes usually have 100-120mm of travel to maximize efficiency. In some cases, these bikes could have forks with 10-20mm more travel to make them more versatile on descents.

XC and short-travel trail bikes fall into this category. They are efficient and usually feel more agile than longer-travel bikes. If you race cross-country, do long adventure rides, or stick to mellow trails, these are the best option.

If you venture onto steep and gnarly downhill tracks with big rocks and jumps, a short-travel bike will start to feel sketchy. There’s a good chance you’ll have to ride slower and more cautiously than you would on a long-travel bike, taking easier lines and occasionally skipping tough sections.

But let’s say you dread going uphill and are constantly getting dropped by fitter riders. A bike with less travel that’s lighter and more efficient could help you go faster and expend less energy. 

If you’re a skilled rider that just wants to make riding more exciting, short-travel bikes provide a lot more trail feedback and give you less room for error. You have to stay focused, be more selective about lines, and be more active with your body. For some, this can be a more enjoyable ride experience than just sitting back and letting a long-travel bike do the hard work for you.

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So how much suspension travel do I need?

Seth H., Merchandising Manager   "I started on an XC hardtail and rode everything, even gnarly downhills on it. It had a dropper and I did just fine. I really thought it was all I would ever need. Then I went to Moab. I rode a borrowed enduro bike on The Whole Enchilada and it kind of opened my eyes. I bought a bigger bike not long after and started riding all my regular trails again. It changed how I rode.

"Personally, I really don’t mind being overbiked for most of my riding now. I ride alone a lot so I go my own pace. But I'm also decently fit and I can keep up with everyone I ride with on my bigger bike (an Ibis Ripmo). If you’re fit, I say go as big as you want."

Chad H., Warehouse Manager   "I would prefer to be underbiked on the majority of trails. Being underbiked keeps the skills sharp and makes the trail an exciting challenge. I feel that being overbiked takes the challenge and excitement out of trails. It leads to laziness and dulls your skill as a rider.

"Right now for me, I believe the best bike for 85 percent of the riding I do will be a full suspension cross country bike, like the Santa Cruz Blur. I would add a dropper seatpost and Fox Step-Cast 34 120mm fork just to give it a tiny bit more capability. Or the new Trek Top Fuel, or possibly a Yeti SB100 are good options. It's what people are calling 'downcountry' now, even though I hate the term. It will be a little bit more capable than a full cross country bike, but it’ll have the same quick handling and speed. That'll be perfect for me." 

What about mid-travel "quiver-killer" mountain bikes?

I always keep at least two mountain bikes in my quiver: a long-travel enduro bike and a short-travel XC bike. This lets me tackle everything from downhill bike parks to short-track XC races. But for many riders, a mid-travel trail bike is all you need.

Mid-travel bikes are a good compromise between downhill performance and pedaling/climbing efficiency. They usually have 120-140mm of travel. Many call these bikes "quiver-killers," because they can do it all (well, almost). I even spent a full season on a quiver-killer , just to see how well it worked for a wide range of riding and was pleasantly surprised by how versatile it actually was.

However, these bikes don't completely excel at anything. A longer-travel bike will be better downhill and a shorter travel bike will be more efficient for racing. Ultimately, if you can only have one bike for casual riding, or you're unsure what type of mountain bike you need for your local trails, this category is the best option. 

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How to choose a mountain bike

Are your trails rough and rocky or smooth and flowy? Are they fast and steep or tight and technical? Your terrain has a big impact on bike selection. Generally, the rougher, steeper, and faster a trail is, the more travel you'll want and vice versa. 

The second step is to know yourself. Your riding ambition is nearly as important as terrain. If you are a ripper who lives for downhills, you'll probably want to support yourself with more travel. But if your ride fantasy involves conquering high mountains, and exploring miles of backcountry trails, you might want to stay light and efficient with less travel.

No matter what, it's possible to have fun riding any bike, and having the ideal amount of suspension travel isn't everything. Keep in mind too that the rider is always going to make a far bigger difference than the bike. Fast descenders drop me on gnarly downhills riding XC hardtails, and fit climbers drop me on uphills riding heavy enduro machines. Good riders take what they have, and make it work. 

That being said, you can always play to your strengths or weaknesses. Having a bike that enhances the parts of riding that you care about the most will make mountain biking more fun. 

Are you overbiked or underbiked for your trails? Do you prefer long travel or short travel? Or do you have a bike that sits somewhere in the middle? Let us know in the comments!

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120mm vs 100mm travel

By Wildfx February 1, 2010 in What bike to buy

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I am wanting to upgrade to a soft tail, but have had different advice on weather I should go for a bike with 100mm travel or 120mm travel. I enjoy riding on the more technical stuff, but tend to do longer rides/races around 40km mark.

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The real difference is not in 100mm vs 120mm worth of travel. The difference is THE BIKE THAT IT IS ON. A 120mm fork will most often be on a bike with slightly slacker head angle. This will give you more confidence on,over and through technical terrain.

For 40k races up to 140mm will even be fine depending on the bike. A Ibis Mojo will race like any other 10mm bike, only faster, but a Morewood Shova will be a bit tougher to get to the finish.

Both have 140mm travel front and back, but they were designed with different intended use in mind.

Having said that a Merida 120, Giant Anthem X or Trance X will all be super bikes you won't regret buying.

If you do end up going 100mm think long and hard before buying the Merida 96. The angles are VERY steep and the bike rides almost like a HT. A Anthem X with 100mm will be better trail/xc/race bike.

For no, don't buy a KTM. They are new to the market so 2nd hand value will drop like only an Alfa's can and they may not be around in a couple of years. And they are WAY over-priced (anybody say Specialized?)

Thanks. Appreciate your opinion.

The Anthem X3 is probably the same frame as the X2 and X1. If that geometry is comfortable go for it, you can always upgrade components later if they break. I ride an adjustable 100,20,140 fork mostly xc and singletrack. Generally I have it set at 120 but when the downhills come I open it to 140. I rarely use the 100 as I do not like the front too low.

Crow said it . All depends on the head angle of the bike . BTW I got a 160mm on my Shova , finished DEsert-Dash , 2xS2C and a few other long races in comfort .

BTW I got a 160mm on my Shova ' date=' finished DEsert-Dash , 2xS2C and a few other long races in comfort .[/quote']       Sure. I've done a race or two on my Mbuzi. What I meant was that you can still do it, but it won't be as easy as on a trail or marathon bike.       Not sure I'll attempt a S2C on the Mbuzi...heck no!

the bike that you feel most comfortable on - see if you can get a demo-model to go ride a place like groenkloof, and see which one feels best?

Groenkloof is to mild to really test something like a fork , go next door to Fountains rather

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Best XC forks: the best cross country forks for a lightweight, plush ride

The best XC forks combine smooth and controlled dampening with a lightweight and stiff design. Here is Bike Perfect's list of the best XC forks on the market

The best XC forks hover between about 100mm and 120mm of travel. Usually featuring lockout switches, XC forks are lightweight, efficient and allow the wheel to get out of the way when it needs to while offering enough support to keep you from bobbing through the travel up a tough climb. 

The suspension fork changed mountain biking forever. Not only did it take some of the dampening load away from your body, but it vastly improved traction and control, allowing riders to take on rougher terrain at speed. 

In the early days, suspension forks offered about 30-50mm of travel and the same fork (and bike) would be used for pedal-heavy XC riding and gravity-fed Downhill racing. Suspension forks have now become specialist components with cross-country riders demanding high performance and low weight in order to build the best lightweight mountain bikes for XCO and marathon racing.

Read on for Bike Perfect's picks for the best XC forks, or if you're new to the club, you can skip to everything you need to know before you buy an XC fork. 

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The best XC forks

Why trust BikePerfect Our cycling experts have decades of testing experience. We\'ll always share our unbiased opinions on bikes and gear. Find out more about how we test.

Fox 32 Step-Cast Factory

Our expert review:

Specifications

Reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

When Fox sought to trim weight from its short travel performance forks, it simply got rid of unneeded material. The lower third of the fork lowers is cut out, and the stance is noticeably narrower in both the Boost and non-Boost formats, which also meant less material was needed in the crown. 

Weighing about 1,400g in the Factory trim for 29-inch wheels, Fox says the 32 Step-Cast is just as stiff as its burlier 34 fork. The top-end model sees the eye-catching neon orange lowers and has provisions for high and low-speed compression damping. There's also a lightweight 8mm damper shaft and a bar-mounted lockout along with a self-equalizing lightweight air spring.

Fox 34 Step-Cast Performance

Cross country racing used to be all about the climbs, and the goal was just to survive the descent. With riders becoming infinitely more skilled and bike technology and geometries improving at a rate approaching lightspeed, the descents are becoming increasingly relevant to the overall equation, as well as getting increasingly technical to boot. With that, we have seen quite a few XC and Marathon racers up forking to 120mm, and even a new breed of XC bikes like the latest Trek Top Fuel, Pivot Mach 5 and Norco Threshold, which are built around a more significant suspension up front.

The Fox 34 Step-Cast follows a similar idea to its shorter travel sibling but changes things up to better accommodate the additional travel and stanchion diameter. The cutouts on the 34 Step-Cast are on the outside of the lowers, the fork also receives the same light, 8mm damper shaft. While the Performance series fork doesn't get the blinged-out Kashima treatment, they are made from the same 7000 series aluminum, and the fork sees a Fit Grip damper that combines the compression damping into a single dial.

RockShox SID SL Ultimate

The new SL Ultimate isn’t just RockShox’s lightest SID but the lightest 100mm telescopic fork from any brand, weighing in at just 1,320g ready to fit. That’s partly due to the heavily sculpted 32mm stanchion chassis with a machined and anodized crown replacing the single-piece carbon top of its predecessor. Top caps and lockout lever have been heavily drilled and machined to chase out every gram and the rebound adjuster is just a skinny pull-out Allen key.

The much smaller Charger Race Day damper saves the most weight (over 90g) to make it 166g lighter than the previous SID Ultimate. The mini damper and reworked DebonAir spring give a super sensitive high grip start with excellent mid-stroke support and progressive bottom out. You even get a bolt-on fender for dirty days.

It’s only available in a short offset 29er version though. 

RockShox SID Ultimate

While the SID SL reworks the classic 32mm chassis for minimal mass, the SID now steps up to the same 35mm diameter stanchions as RockShox trail, Enduro and DH forks. That means a much stiffer, more accurate on-trail feel than the SL, but still enough compliance to boost traction and reduce fatigue. The tiny Race Day Damper and extensive machining and sculpting from lower legs to lockout lever mean it still only weighs 1,508g.

The DebonAir spring has been altered to raise the ride height of the fork, increasing stability for corners and braking and ramping up aggressively for big hits. The start is still buttery smooth to sustain speed and grip over tiring chatter bumps. The Race Day Damper is impeccably controlled, even when rallied hard. The 180mm brake mounts and optional fender make it trail-ready, and it’s got an instant bleed damper port. The Ultimate only has a hard lockout switch but not tuneable compression adjust, and it’s only available in a 44mm offset 29er format.   

Marzocchi Bomber Z2

Fox breathed new life into the Marzocchi brand last year, sharing its damper and air spring technology with an attainable price tag. The Bomber Z2 is stripped down and doesn't have all the knobs and dials most of us never bother to turn. Unlike the Bomber Z1 which uses a GRIP damper from Fox, the Bomber Z2 gets its own Rail damper which presents reliable performance and simplified internals, so even the most ham-fisted home mechanic can service their fork.  

With 34mm stanchions, the Bomber Z2 is available in travel from 100mm to 150mm, and the squish can be adjusted internally by the DIY’er — though you'll need to buy the correct length air spring shaft. It's not the lightest fork on the market, but for the hard-charging XC racer who is pushing on the descents, it's stiffer than the Fox 34 in our experience.

DT Swiss F232 ONE

DT Swiss’s superlight forks have been a favorite among European racers for well over a decade, and Nino Schurter won five of his World Championships and the 2016 Olympics on DT Swiss. Their popularity has always centered around excellent stiffness to weight ratios, and the sculpted uppers and boxy dropout lowers are still very accurate for its sub-1,500g weight.

The LINEAIR air spring uses a bypass valve to close off the negative spring as the fork goes from supple start to linear mid-stroke, before ramping up to control bigger hits.

The INCONTROL damping gives a LOCK setting for sprints, a hard starting DRIVE setting for climbs and a fine adjustable OPEN setting for maximum smoothness. You can choose fork top or remote lever actuation, three travel options from 100-120mm and they’re all useable with up to a 2.5-inch tire. You can only get 29er wheel and standard 51mm offset format though.  

Manitou Machete

Like the blade that Manitou's XC fork is named after, the Machete is designed to slice and dice thick and chunky trails. With the brand's patented reverse arch, it weighs a respectable 1,885g (29in) and features external adjustments for compression, rebound, and full lockout.

There's a hollow crown at the top to save weight, and the fork features the brand's ISO air spring with a rubber bottom out bumper and ABS+ compression, along with rebound damping inside. Manitou offers the Machete in both 100mm and 120mm travel, with the squish internally adjustable by 20mm in each version. 

If you are looking for lower weight, more adjustability and improved dampening, Manitou has the R7 Expert and Pro although they aren't as affordable.

DVO Sapphire D1

DVO is a relative newcomer to the suspension game, and the Sapphire is the brand's XC platform touted for the bucket-loads of adjustability that’s packed into the fork. First, the travel is adjustable from 100mm-140mm with internal spacers, so you could go as far as tailoring how much squish you have depending on the course.

The Sapphire platform borrows design characteristics from DVO’s longer travel forks - like the Diamond and Emerald - to emulate not only the stiffness and tracking but also the ‘Off The Top’ and dynamic rebound adjustment. There are six clicks of low-speed compression to firm up the fork for pedaling, and over 30-clicks of high-speed compression to precisely control how the fork reacts to substantial impacts. DVO uses a shim-stack controlled rebound that controls the system based on how fast oil is moving through the fork, allowing the fork to spring back based on what the trail is doing underneath the wheels. 

Rockshox Reba

Tucking in just behind the veritable SID is the RockShox Reba. In typical RockShox form, it offers adjustability and reliability, but at a price that won't relegate you to surviving on ramen noodles for the month after you buy it. 

It's available in travel from 100mm to 150mm and uses 32mm stanchions, which keep the weight low and provide plenty of stiffness in the XC travel range. Being a second-tier fork, RockShox makes it for 26-inch27.5-inch and 29-inch wheels and with both straight and tapered steerer tubes. No matter the setup, the Reba RL has a Solo-Air spring that accepts Rockshox's Bottomless Tokens to increase progressivity and a Motion Control damper that provides both compression and rebound adjustment.

The eighth edition of the Lefty Ocho has seen the fork go from a dual drow setup to a single crown, dropping about 250gm in the process, while actually managing to increase stiffness — quite a feat considering the rigidity of its predecessor. The fork also features 23-clicks of rebound adjustment and six clicks of compression adjustment, in addition to the air valve being moved to the side from the bottom of the fork leg. 

Cannondale has continued to use its upside-down design, and the internals roll on three sets of needle bearings instead of bushings, which are claimed to significantly reduce stiction. We’re also happy to see the annoying hydraulic lockout remote has been retired for a simple mechanical version.

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Best XC forks: what you need to know

For a long time, a cross country bike had a 100mm fork, and 100mm of rear travel if it had any at all, because, for a long time, races were won on the climbs, and the descents were just about getting to the bottom without crashing. 

Times have changed, and the courses are getting gnarlier, which means the bikes have had to evolve. The latest wave of XC bikes adopted slacker head angles for more confidence on the downhills, and an increasing number are specced with a slightly longer travel 120mm fork — something we’ve seen marathon racers do for some time. It's worth noting that if your bike has a 100mm fork, increasing or reducing the travel by more than 20mm will have dramatic effects on the handling. 

With longer forks becoming more common on the best XC forks, 32mm stanchions are still the go-to for their weight, however, more 34mm forks are working their way into the XC travel ranges. 

Thru-axles provide for a stiffer connection between the fork legs and the hub and are now considered standard on just about every level of mountain bike. XC forks will take a 15mm diameter axle, and will either have standard 100mm spacing or Boost 110mm spacing.

Boost allows for wider spoke bracing angles and therefore a stiffer wheel with virtually no weight penalty. The wider hub spacing has been around for long enough that most bikes, except for those on the lowest step of the pricing spectrum, will utilize the boost standard.

3. Adjustability

Having a telescoping suspension fork is all well and good, but bolting a poorly setup pogo stick on the front of your bike will do more harm than good. At the very least, your XC fork should have an air spring as they offer far more tunability, not only through air pressure to adjust the sag, but also volume spacers to tune how the fork ramps through its travel.

Even the most budget-friendly forks also offer rebound adjustment, which is how fast the fork springs back after it's compressed. Rebound is often described in clicks because the adjuster knob literally clicks as you turn it; higher-end forks will have more clicks of adjustability, allowing for the precise tuning.

Finally, we have compression adjustment and lockout. Most XC forks will allow for some degree of compression adjustment, or at what rate the fork compresses under force; however quite a few will have a lockout switch or remote that in simple terms, turns the fork on or off. 

More expensive forks will divide this adjustment into high-speed and low-speed compression. Low-speed compression helps the fork to support your weight against gravity, for example when you stand up to pedal or ride over rollers or berms but can come at the cost of small-bump sensitivity. High-speed compression is the reaction to an abrupt impact like hitting a rock or riding off a drop.

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Born and bred in Colorado, and now based in Australia, Colin comes from a ski racing background and started riding as a way to stay fit through the summer months. His father, a former European pro, convinced him to join the Colorado State University collegiate cycling team, and he hasn't stopped since. It's not often he pins on a number nowadays, and you'll likely find him in search of flowy singletrack, gravel roads and hairpin corners. Colin has worked at Bikeradar and is a regular contributor to Australian Mountain Bike and Cyclist magazines. 

Rides: BMC Team Machine SLR01, Trek Top Fuel 9, Ibis Ripley

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RockShox SID SL 2021 Review | The Lightest Fork We’ve Ever Tested

The not-so-minor details.

RockShox SID SL Ultimate

PSI Cycling

https://www.psicycling.com.au/

- Stupendously low weight - Supple performance - Tuneable air spring - Rigidity is good for such a lightweight fork - Beautiful machining detail

- Fitment with non-Torque Cap hubs is annoying - Rebound adjuster is inelegant, albeit functional

Wil Reviews The 2021 RockShox SID SL

Earlier this year, RockShox unveiled a completely re-engineered SID. As the brand’s premium short travel XC fork, the latest version of the SID arrived in March with its sights set on a spectacularly successful year of World Cup and Olympic glory underneath some of the fastest mountain bikers in the world. Of course, 2020 didn’t quite go according to plan. We were lucky to get a few rounds of World Cup action in, along with the World Championships, where we saw SID between the race tape alongside Bec McConnell, Pauline Ferrand-Prévot and Nino Schurter. The tantalising hors d’oeuvre of racing was a brief but welcome distraction from a certain global pandemic, though unfortunately SID, and everyone else, will have to wait just a little longer for the world’s biggest XCO event.

SID Splits In Two

While the Olympics didn’t eventuate this year, we’re mighty glad that SID did happen, because it’s a significant step up for RockShox. In case you missed our launch feature , the big news here is that SID has split into two very distinct options;

• SID : 120mm travel, 35mm upper tubes – the beefy XC/trail option
• SID SL : 100mm travel, 32mm upper tubes – the superlight XC race option

We’ve already spent a load of time on the bigger 120mm travel SID, which blew us away with its supple and progressive suspension performance, as well as its supremely low weight given the big 35mm chassis. You can check out our review of the RockShox SID Ultimate fork here . In this review, we’ll be going into detail about our experience of testing the lighter option of the two – the SID SL.

All-New Flesh & Bones

With the SID SL carrying the mantel as the XC race fork in the RockShox lineup, it gets an entirely new chassis that has been optimised to be as light as possible. In order to achieve that goal, options have been pared right back. The SID SL is only available with 100mm of travel, and it’s specifically designed for 29in wheels with Boost front hubs. For those on 27.5in wheels or non-Boost hubs, you’ll have to look further down the RockShox pecking order.

Just like the bigger SID and the new ZEB , the SID SL will only come in a 44mm offset. That matches the 44mm offset option from Fox, and it would appear that the two suspension giants have settled on that number as being the main standard for their 29er forks moving forward.

The SID SL is built around 32mm diameter tapered alloy upper tubes, which plug into a forged alloy crown that is post-machined and anodised on the higher-end Ultimate model. For further weight savings, the one-piece magnesium lowers are completely hollow at the base, and they’re also stepped on the inside face – not unlike the Fox 32 Step-Cast (SC). Even the bolt-up axle is externally machined. The Maxle Stealth weighs a paltry 38g – that’s half the weight of a regular Maxle.

The SID SL gets entirely new guts too, including the latest generation DebonAir spring. The other leg houses the new Charger Race Day damper, which features adjustable rebound damping and a simple two-position lockout. You can get it in a crown-adjust version (as tested) or with a remote lockout for an extra $100 AUD.

1,300 grams? Holy Banana!

As per RockShox’ claims, our SID SL Ultimate test fork clocked in at just 1,328g on the scales with an uncut steerer tube. With the steerer cut to 165mm, that weight came down to 1,300g on the nose. To put that into perspective, that’s nearly a 200g reduction over the previous SID Ultimate Carbon fork. Flamin’ Nora that’s light!

The new chassis has, of course, helped to chisel away excess material, but there have been bigger gains with the new Charger Race Day damper, which has taken off 100 whole grams alone . The Charger Race Day damper is essentially a shrunken down version of the Charger 2.1 damper you’d find in a Pike. Given it only has to cover the 100mm SID SL and 120mm SID, the Charger Race Day damper features a smaller bladder, less oil, and smaller valving. Even the damper top cap has been machined within an inch of its life to eliminate as many grams as possible.

How Does That Weight Compare To The Competition?

Very favourably. In fact, it’s the lightest fork we’ve ever tested, lighter even than the previous benchmark – the Fox 32 SC. For a point of reference on that weight figure, here’s how the SID SL Ultimate compares to some of the other big name options on the market;

• RockShox SID SL Ultimate: 1,300g (confirmed)
• Fox 32 SC Factory Series: 1,406g (confirmed)
• Cannondale Lefty Ocho Carbon: 1,446g (claimed)
• DT Swiss F 232 One: 1,480g (claimed)
• RockShox SID Ultimate: 1,501g (confirmed)
• Fox 34 Step-Cast: 1,631g (confirmed)

There’s A Cheaper Select Model Too

For those looking to buy a new SID SL aftermarket, there are two options; the Ultimate that we have here, and a cheaper Select model.

The SID SL Select comes with the same core chassis – the lowers, upper tubes and DebonAir spring are identical. The main difference is in the damper. Instead of the Charger Race Day damper, the SID SL Select gets a standard Charger RL damper, and it also misses out on the additional machining and anodising on its alloy crown.

The result is an increase in weight by around 140g. However, with a sticker price of $999 AUD for the crown-adjust version, it’s also $300 cheaper than the Ultimate model.

Testing The RockShox SID SL Ultimate

Over the past seven months, I’ve had the chance to ride three different SID SL forks across four different bikes. The main fork I’ve been riding is a blue SID SL Ultimate with a crown-mounted lockout, which was first fitted to my Santa Cruz Blur CC, where it replaced a Fox 32 Step-Cast Factory fork. I’ve also tested that fork on the Orbea Oiz M-Team , and more recently, I’ve been riding a SID SL Ultimate with a remote lockout on our Trek Supercaliber 9.9  test bike.

Torque Cap Hubs Are Great – When You Have Them

All of those bikes have come with standard Boost hubs, which results in an annoying fit with the oversized Torque Cap dropouts on the SID SL fork. Installing the front wheel becomes a more tedious affair since you have to float the front hub between the fork dropouts to just the right spot before the axle slides through. It’s annoying if you need to remove the wheel to throw the bike in the boot of your car, but it’s downright infuriating during a race when you’re trying to repair a puncture.

This is expected fare for RockShox forks these days, which are compatible with standard Boost hubs and 20mm diameter end caps, but are optimised to be used with Boost hubs with oversized 31mm diameter Torque Cap end caps. When paired together, the result is increased torsional stiffness due to the bigger surface area contact between fork dropout and hub.

It is noticeable too – the Specialized S-Works Epic we tested back in June had a Brain-equipped SID SL fork with a matching Torque Cap front hub, and the improved steering precision was both apparent and welcome. The fit is neater too, and the hub locates quickly and easily. Fundamentally it’s a great design; I just wish we’d see more hubs with those oversized end caps to make use of it.

Big Brakes & Big-Ish Tyres

Surprising for such a lightweight fork, the SID SL is officially rated for use with up to a whopping 200mm brake rotor. Otherwise, the post mount tabs are setup to work with a 160mm rotor without an adapter, which is how I’ve had it set up on the Blur. A favourite detail of mine is the non-tooled guide for the brake hose. It’s a snug press-fit, with no cape ties or tiny hex keys required.

With the broader Boost spacing, the SID SL is also rated for use with up to a 60mm (2.36in) wide tyre. Bear in mind that RockShox is a little conservative here, as that maximum width requires a certain amount of clearance around the tyre casing. I’ve had a 2.35in Schwalbe Racing Ray and a 2.35in Maxxis Rekon Race in there without issue, and Nino Schurter has been racing with 2.4in Aspens all season, and he seems to be doing fine. Regardless, it’s always worth checking by depressurising the fork and seeing if the tyre clears at full travel. The last thing you’d want is the front tyre contacting the crown on a hard landing. If you thought 2020 was bad, I can guarantee that it would make things far worse.

With just an air spring and adjustable rebound damping, the SID SL is straightforward to setup. There’s a pressure guide on the back of the fork leg to help get you in the ballpark. I also love that RockShox has anodised sag gradients onto the upper tube, making it easy to eyeball the sag level, while also seeing how close you’ve gotten to full travel during a ride.

For my 68kg riding weight, I started with 100psi in the air spring as recommended, which delivered 25% static sag when standing up on the pedals. While the DebonAir spring is new for this year, the SID SL relies on the same black Bottomless Tokens as the previous SID and Reba forks. From the factory, the SID SL comes with zero Tokens inside, though you can run up to three to increase bottom-out support.

To adjust rebound damping, there’s a minimalist 2.5mm L-handle hex key that plugs into the underside of the fork leg. It’s a little awkward to use, but it’s also very light, and it can be removed to adjust the tooled rebound adjustment on the new SIDLuxe shock. I also found it handy for adjusting the tension on my XTR pedals mid-ride, since most multi-tools don’t actually come with a 2.5mm hex key. As for the rebound setting, I set up my fork on the slower side (7/19 clicks).

With air pressure and rebound set, the Charger Race Day damper gives you a simple two-position lockout. Like the rest of the fork, the lever has been machined within an inch of its life, though it’s nice and positive in use. There are no other external compression adjustments – the damper tune for the open and closed settings is pre-set from the factory. Fiddlers may lament the lack of dials, but I like that RockShox has kept things simple here.

So Smooth, So Light

On the trail, the SID SL shows an immediate improvement in performance over the previous generation SID. The new fork is much smoother, with vastly improved small-bump compliance, resulting in more comfort at the grips, more traction at the tyre contact patch, and more control on bigger impacts. Given there’s just 100mm of travel, it’s an impressively supple fork.

With the old SID, I found I had to load it up with 2-3 Bottomless Tokens so I could run lower pressures and squeeze out more small-bump compliance. It was still never the most freely-sliding fork though, especially compared to the Fox 32 Step-Cast. And for bigger riders who needed even more support, you were also a bit limited with how many Tokens you could fit inside the small air chamber.

In comparison, the SID SL is nice and slippery right out of the box. The reduced friction no doubt comes down to a variety of factors including the Charger Race Day damper and the addition of SKF-made wiper seals. The new DebonAir spring is also much more refined. It’s noticeably more progressive, even without any Tokens inside.

The SID SL also rides a touch higher, with less travel eaten up by the negative air spring. This is due to a change in the transfer port between the positive and negative chambers, which is now located at the seal head. Aside from helping the fork to sit higher in its travel and better resisting dive under braking, it also means you don’t have to repeatedly compress the fork to equalise pressures when inflating the fork.

On that note, RockShox has rolled out the DebonAir C1 air spring into the latest Pike, Revelation, Lyrik and Yari forks, and it’s also available as an aftermarket upgrade. Check out our standalone review of the new DebonAir spring for more info.

How Does It Compare To Big SID?

Though it is smooth and well supported, the SID SL isn’t quite as plush as its bigger brother, the 120mm travel SID. As you’d expect given the 200g weight increase and bigger 35mm upper tubes, the regular SID does feel more planted on the trail. This becomes noticeable on harder and faster off-camber impacts, where the beefier fork tracks with more precision and less deflection. It also has a more progressive spring curve, to the point where I’ve never once hit full travel.

In comparison, I have been able to bottom out the 100mm travel SID SL on similar-sized drops. Bear in mind that we’re talking hard, flat landings that I occasionally encounter on one of my local test loops, which I wouldn’t describe as being typical of an XCO race course. In the spirit of science though, I did try adding a Bottomless Token inside the air spring, which helped to increase support on those harder landings. However, it did come at the expense of small-bump compliance. I’ve since gone back to zero Tokens, while also focussing on riding smoother and taking better lines, and all has been rosy.

On the note of the bigger SID, it’s worth mentioning that some World Cup riders, including Nino Schurter, are actually choosing the SID over the SID SL. Schurter’s Scott Spark race bike is equipped with a 110mm travel SID Ultimate, so clearly there’s enough of an improvement in ride quality to warrant the additional weight. And certainly, for riders on the heavier side, it’d be well worth considering the regular SID, particularly in its 110mm travel guise, assuming your bike can handle it.

RockShox SID SL vs Fox 32 SC

The bigger question though, is how does the SID SL compare to its main rival, the Fox 32 SC?

I’ve had a load of saddle time on both forks – the 32 SC spent about six months on the front of my Blur before it was replaced by the SID SL. To get a more accurate sense of the comparative performance differences though, I conducted an additional back-to-back test session where I swapped the two forks around on the front of an Orbea Oiz , riding several laps of exactly the same test loop with only the fork changing each lap. On top of that, I’ve garnered further on-trail experience of each fork on a variety of other bikes, including the Canyon Exceed and Specialized Epic .

Here’s how the two stack up against each other.

Weight: As mentioned earlier, the new SID SL has turned the tables in terms of weight. It’s now lighter than the Fox 32 SC by over 100g (1,300g vs 1,406g), which is a considerable margin, especially for the more gram-obsessed riders out there.

Chassis: Structurally the two forks are fairly similar, though the SID SL does actually look a little broader and beefier alongside the anaemic 32 SC. Stated tyre clearance is a touch more generous on the SID SL (2.35in vs 2.3in), and the axle-to-crown distance is a hair longer too (506mm vs 503.7mm).

Adjustability: Fox does offer more adjustability with the FIT4 damper in its premium 32 SC Factory Series fork. On the crown-adjust version, you get a blue three-position compression lever with Open, Medium & Firm settings, along with a black low-speed compression dial for tuning the compression damping in the Open mode. Personally, I only ever use the Open or Firm settings, while using the low-speed compression dial to add a little more support. In comparison, the SID SL is much simpler – the lockout is either on or off. When locked out, both forks offer a properly firm platform, though if you do hit something really hard, there’s a built-in threshold to automatically open the fork up and protect the damper internals.

Remote Lockout: Both the SID SL and Fox 32 SC are available in a remote lockout version. You get two remote options with RockShox; there’s a trigger-style remote, and the TwistLoc remote. The TwistLoc is worth mentioning because it offers neater compatibility with under-the-bar dropper post levers. In comparison, Fox just offers the single trigger-style remote lockout. It works well, and if paired to a push-to-unlock damper, it does offer a much lighter feel at the lever.

Performance: On the trail, there is honestly little separating these two forks. While the SID SL looks beefier, I can’t say I honestly noticed a difference in handling precision or chassis flex between the two when setup with the same front wheel. However, the SID SL does move ahead when paired to a Torque Cap hub, so be sure to seek that out if it’s an option for you. These are still lightweight XC race forks though, and there’s always going to be more bending and more twang compared to their burlier siblings. Both are very smooth though, and when ridden on different days, there’s nothing separating them. In back-to-back testing however, I found the SID SL to be just a fraction more sensitive over rubble and square-edge rock strikes. It’s impressively supple for such a weight-focussed fork.

Conclusion: If I was building up a bike from scratch and looking for a new fork, I’d pick the SID SL. It’s a little bit cheaper, and a decent amount lighter, and I like the ease of setup and tuning options. If you already own a Fox 32 SC though, particularly the newer version with the stiffer crown, I wouldn’t be rushing out to sell it to buy a SID SL, unless you desperately wanted to drop some weight from your bike. Both are fabulous performers that are well suited to fast-paced XC riding and racing.

I’m still yet to encounter an issue with our SID SL Ultimate test fork, though it is due for a lower leg service, which RockShox recommends every 50-hours of ride time. Replacement seal kits sell for $29.95 AUD, and any decent bike shop will be well versed in performing this procedure in-house. A full damper and spring service are then recommended for the 200-hour mark, which is more involved but still relatively straightforward, particularly with the nifty external bleed port on the damper top cap.

For anything trickier, there’s always SRAM’s Melbourne-based DSD service centre, which is there to provide backup support both inside and outside of RockShox’ two-year manufacturing warranty. That’s solid peace of mind for sure.

On the note of servicing and spares, it’s worth noting that if you did decide to go for the cheaper Select model, or you’ve purchased a complete bike that comes with one, it is possible to upgrade to the lighter Charger Race Day damper. That’ll set you back $449 AUD. Of course it’d be cheaper to buy the Ultimate model outright, but it’s still nice to see upgrade options.

Flow’s Verdict

In the realm of lightweight XC forks, the new RockShox SID SL takes the mantle as being the best we’ve tested yet. It’s the lightest option by a fair margin, and it brings significantly smoother performance than its predecessor. It’s bristling with neat engineering details, including the beautifully machined crown and trick damper, and it offers excellent steering precision given the stupendously low 1,300g weight.

It might not have all the adjustability of the Fox 32 SC, and performance on the trail is otherwise hair-splittingly similar, but the SID SL impresses with its simple setup and ease of tuning. I’d recommend pairing it to a Torque Cap hub if you can, both to maximise handling accuracy and reduce installation faff.

Fox 32 SC owners don’t need to sweat too much, though if you own an old SID or Reba, this new SID SL is a thoroughly worthwhile upgrade. Not only see you drop a significant amount of weight, it’ll also bring with it more traction, more comfort and more spring support too.

Mo’ Flow Please!

Enjoyed that article? Then there’s plenty more to check out on Flow Mountain Bike, including all our  latest news stories  and  product reviews . And if you haven’t already, make sure you subscribe to our  YouTube  channel, and sign up to our  Facebook  page and  Instagram  feed so you can keep up to date with all things Flow!

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How much suspension travel do I need on my mountain bike?

From cross-country to downhill, we take you through how much travel you can expect on the major types of mountain bike

Andy Lloyd / Our Media

Mountain bikes feature different amounts of suspension travel depending on the type of riding they're designed for.

Suspension travel describes the amount of movement a suspension fork or rear shock has. It is usually a measurement of how far the wheel axle moves in a vertical or near-vertical plane as the suspension compresses.

Depending on the discipline of riding the bike is designed for, the suspension travel can vary from 80 to 200mm. While more travel may seem better, helping you soak up lumps and bumps, it can be a hindrance if your riding includes lots of climbing or you benefit from a light, responsive bike.

This means deciding on the right amount of travel for your needs can be difficult, but there are a few factors to keep in mind, including your riding style and the type of trails and terrain you'll be tackling.

Bike manufacturers design their mountain bikes around different travel lengths, tailored to specific terrains or riding disciplines, and categorise the bikes accordingly. As a result, looking at the different categories of mountain bikes, their intended application and travel length is a handy way to determine how much travel you need and what bike you should get.

In this guide, we’ll explain the different mountain bike categories and how much suspension travel they typically have.

Cross-country mountain bikes

The best cross-country mountain bikes are designed to compete in high-level, fast races, where lightness and pedalling efficiency are often the keys to success.

Typically, cross-country bikes have featured 80 to 100mm of travel. Because cross-country race courses have become more extreme and technical, it is now common to see bikes designed around 120mm travel front and rear, such as Scott’s Spark RC .

Using less suspension travel than other mountain bikes means cross-country bikes can be built with a lighter frame construction because less reinforcement is needed to deal with the lower frame articulation. This helps riders race up the kinds of inclines that characterise XC races .

The short-travel forks used on cross-country bikes also help to keep weight down because they utilise a lighter chassis and narrower stanchions, usually 30 to 32mm in diameter.

Stanchions are the part of the fork connected to the crown and remain rigid to the bike while the lowers move up and down over them.

The trade-off for this weight saving comes in the form of fork flex, which impacts the directness of steering inputs and the overall ability of the fork to perform in gnarlier terrain as friction levels build on the seals.

A short-travel fork will also run out of travel quicker compared to one with more travel. Although setup and damper performance will dictate a lot of factors in how proficiently it absorbs bumps, less travel means it won't absorb bigger bumps as well as a long-travel fork.

Hardtail mountain bikes are also well-represented in cross-country, because rigid frames allow for the highest pedalling efficiency. However, the traction and descending ability of full-suspension bikes make them desirable to many riders.

Downcountry mountain bikes

Downcountry bikes aim to balance a cross-country bike's efficiency with a trail bike's downhill capability.

‘Downcountry’ is a relatively new mountain bike discipline and isn’t that well defined as a result. But in terms of suspension, these bikes range from beefed up cross-country at 110mm of travel, to lightweight trail with around 130mm front and rear travel.

Having slightly more travel than an outright cross-country bike means downcountry bikes are more capable on descents. However, with shorter travel than trail bikes, they still offer greater pedalling efficiency than burlier bikes.

Downcountry bike frames can be made lighter than trail bikes because the demand on the frame is less. This means they require less material in their construction because they don’t require the same amount of strength as a trail or enduro bike needs.

Downcountry bikes usually feature stronger, stiffer forks, with thicker stanchions, usually 34mm in diameter. This gives higher levels of rigidity to the fork, making steering inputs more direct, although concessions are still made to weight savings.

Trail mountain bikes

Trail bikes are one of the most popular types of mountain bike. They are designed to straddle the line between enduro bikes and cross-country bikes, providing a ride that’s fun but capable.

Confident on descents and fairly capable on climbs, trail bikes typically have between 120 and 160mm of suspension travel.

Trail bikes at the longer end of the suspension-travel spectrum cross the boundary into all-mountain. Typically, these bikes will feature beefier frame construction to deal with the added suspension travel.

The optimum amount of travel depends on what terrain or trails you like to ride, and where you’d like to progress with your riding. 140mm is ideal for even the toughest trail centres, with more travel being required for gnarlier ambitions.

Forks with mid-sized stanchions, either 34mm, 35mm or 36mm in diameter, are common on trail bikes. These shift the balance away from lightness toward rigid stability for better handling while descending. Less flexibility in the fork will mean more direct steering input, making the bike feel more planted through the rough stuff.

Enduro mountain bikes

Enduro bikes are designed to meet the demands of enduro racing , which consists of multiple downhill stages that riders have to reach within a set time limit. As a result, enduro bikes have to perform well on technical descents while providing a decent pedalling platform to get you to the top of the trail in good time.

Travel for enduro bikes starts at 150mm and ranges up to 180mm. There is a 190mm-travel version of RockShox’s enduro-focused ZEB fork, but you’re more likely to see this attached to a freeride or bike park bike.

Enduro bikes require a burly frame construction in order to cope with the demands of downhill trails.

Head tubes have to be stronger to deal with the extra force coming from the long-travel fork, while the rear linkage has to be able to support the extra articulation.

This added frame construction makes the frame heavier, impacting efficiency when going uphill, but the pay-off is worth it when coming back down.

Forks within this travel range prioritise rigidity over weight savings, with thicker stanchions of 36mm to 38mm, providing direct steering inputs and a solid feel as you ride over gnarly terrain.

Downhill mountain bikes

Downhill bikes are designed for, you guessed it, riding downhill. The discipline doesn’t require the bike to be pedalled on uphill or even flat terrain, enabling designers to focus solely on providing the best platform for descending steep and technical trails.

These bikes feature some of the longest suspension travel, ranging from 180 to 200mm, helping to protect riders from large, repeated impacts.

Frames have to be built to the highest strength levels to cope with the impacts you experience on downhill trails. Although downhill frames are heavier than those intended for other disciplines, it's less important to have light frames because you’re not pedalling them uphill.

Downhill forks feature the thickest stanchion, ranging from 35 to 40mm in diameter, because they deal with the most extreme terrain and require the greatest rigidity.

Weight isn’t a big issue for downhill bikes, so the added heft is worth the trade-off for the performance gains.

The forks on downhill bikes have a dual-crown design, meaning the fork mounts above and below the head tube, as opposed to single-crown forks, which mount only from below. This adds more torsional stiffness to the fork, helping to keep steering inputs direct through the toughest terrain and providing strength for big impacts.

Electric mountain bikes

Electric mountain bikes are heavy, even compared to downhill bikes. The added weight a battery and motor bring means frames as well as components have to be engineered to cope with the extra weight – and contribute even more weight to the bike in the process.

Electric bikes can be categorised by the other disciplines featured in this article and will tend to feature the travel of that discipline.

The best electric mountain bikes will feature e-MTB specific forks and shocks, some with thicker stanchions for rigidity, and custom tunes that are suited to the heavier weight of the bike.

Because you’ll have a motor, there won’t be a trade-off in having a bike with more travel (and therefore weight), with the bike taking up the burden on the hills.

What about hardtail mountain bikes?

Hardtail mountain bikes have a suspension fork and a rigid rear end. They can be seen in a variety of disciplines, though are mainly represented in the cross-country and trail disciplines. They are also popular when it comes to budget mountain bikes because the simplicity of their design and less suspension means less cost.

As with other types of mountain bikes, fork travel is usually dependent on discipline. Cross-country hardtails typically have 100mm of travel, but more aggressive hardtails can have suspension travel of up to 150mm.

Some manufacturers will design frames with flex points in the rear triangle, allowing for vertical compliance in the frame. This improves comfort when sat in the saddle, and to a smaller extent rear-wheel traction while climbing.

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100mm vs 120mm Budget FS MTB Pros/Cons

I know it’s been relatively covered in several what to buy threads … but I’m wondering what are the pros and cons of 100mm vs 120mm.

I see a lot of 120mm options available here in Aus but not a lot of 100mm options unless they’re more XC race spec which are generally well above my budget.

Looking for something for XCM events - generally up to 50km. I guess it’s comparing the Specialized Epic or maybe Scalpel to maybe a Scott Spark 960/970 in 120. I was also looking at the Marin Rift Zone3 - which seems very affordable on special at $2500AUD

My thoughts are that in the category it’s comparing 12-13kg vs 13-14kg - current bike is 12.5ish. One concern is that pushing 14kg is getting a bit porky for going uphill.

Will a 120mm bike be considerably faster and more comfortable than 100mm when things are headed down and how much slower will it be when things are headed up?

That’s going to be 100% dependant on your local terrain. What are the fast guys riding? In Minnesota the fastest guys are riding full rigid and in South Dakota the fastest guys are riding 120 front and rear full suspension . Just an example. It also comes down to personal preference and rider skill level.

Theres a lot to consider but 120mm is the go-to travel for longer marathon events. Check out the Epic Evo and Scalpel SE for longer travel versions

I guess I should have clarified - I’m not really chasing a what bike should I buy answer.

But more just thoughts on general pros and cons of going with more travel vs less.

Fastest guys of course are on XC race bikes generally 100mm - but I’m just aiming for mid pack where there’s a mix of all sorts. The point I had was - Due to budget constraints would I get a better bike in 120mm (simply because there’s lots of options) versus stretching the budget for an XC bike with a big S on the front.

The 100mm bikes have steeper head tube angles.

The 100mm bikes also have slightly shorter reach but are designed to be used with longer stems.

You can split the difference by getting a 100mm bike one size larger, use a shorter stem, and install a 120mm or even 130mm fork.

A 120mm XC bike will most likely be heavier if you’re keeping price points constant. 120mm for an XCO/XCM is a relatively newer concept as 100mm f/r full sus is the common norm to replace the traditional hardtail. Overall bike components may be lower on the 120mm to offset price points, so I’d take a look at that when comparing as well. That being said, I wouldn’t choose a bike solely on 100mm vs 120mm, but rather the overall package, geometry and the terrain I’d be racing/riding. If your local XCO/XCM are on the gnarlier side then 120mm may be the better choice. However XCO/XCM races are won on the uphill so being faster downhill is likely not to change much.

With this being an Olympic year and the XCO course being pretty burly, not to mention XCO courses in general trending towards tougher trails, it wouldn’t surprise me to see more 2021 model year XC bikes with 120mm. In my case in MI and in the Midwest, 120mm is too much though.

I’d depends on what you want to do with the bike. If looking to optimize for racing on less technical trails, go 100. If looking for more flexibility to ride gnarlier stuff, go with a modern geometry 120. With 120, you won’t lose much in terms of speed in XCM, and the bike will be more capable and open up more terrain you can ride and have fun on.

FWIW, I have a 130mm trail bike that I ride in Leadville, XCM, XC, my local trails (big climbs, fast somewhat tech descents), and Moab. Works pretty well for all of them.

Pros of 120: typically better DH geometry, plenty of options that will still offer good pedaling dynamics.

Cons of 120: typically heavier builds. Some platforms not as efficient as a pure XC race 100mm bike.

Pros of 100: XC geometry is finally good, taking notes from longer travel bikes, longer reach, slacker HA. Most 100 bikes are unapologetically efficient, great pedaling but that can some translate to harshness on rough sections.

Cons of 100: still lots of old school geo bikes out there with 70 degree HA, short reach. Typically harsher than any 120 bike. May not have the fun factor of a 120 bike.

My Blur is the best of both worlds. Santa Cruz doesn’t get much love here but that’s a great XC or XCM bike depending on the build. If I could have two bikes it would be my Blur and then a Horst link 140+ travel 29er.

Keep in mind with the Specialized that they rely heavily on the shocks compression in order to compensate for pedal bob inherent in the design. That’s a sweeping generalization and I’ll take it one more - single pivot or dual link bikes tend to pedal better, Horst link tends to be more active and provide a plush feel.

The 100mm bikes are made for a specific purpose…going fast. They have just enough travel to take the sting off the occasional big hit. Just enough travel to let the rider sit and pedal smoothly over non-buff surfaces that would otherwise have them hovering over the saddle, burning unnecessary watts. Just enough travel to minimize flatting and equipment breakage.

The 120mm plus bikes are actually more fun, easier on your body, allow you to play more in rougher terrain, etc. But the obvious trade off is a little less pedaling efficiency, and a little more weight.

Unless you’re regularly competing for podium spots, you’re almost certainly served better by a +120mm. If you are a competitor at that level, you should probably have 1 of each. The 120 would be a good training bike and race day backup.

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100mm vs 120mm Fork

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Howdy MTBers. I've been riding some very technical trails lately on my 2011 Specialized Epic Comp and have been wishing at points that i had some more travel. In the Epic Manual, it says that you can put up to a 120mm fork on it without harming the frame or voiding warranty. So here are the questions; A. Do you guys think that upgrading my fork from a 100mm RS Reba to a Fox F120 with Kashima coat will make a BIG difference in feel? B. Will a 120mm fork make the bike feel awkward and weird for climbing? Thanks :thumbsup:  

Put a 140mm on it. It won't make a large difference in climbing ability, but it'll make the bike a heck of alot more fun.  

I like the idea but I do not want to void the frame warranty and i really don't want to cause too much stress on the frame. I was thinking about getting 110-140mm Talas and mainly have it in 110mm until the downhill.  

i went from a 100mm Marz 44 on my hardtail to a 120mm RS SID and i dont think i could go back now, nor would i want to. The 120 resulted in a slacker head angle and slightly higher bottom bracket, both of which were way more fun on the trail, especially at high speed slalom/downhill legs of the trail. I dont miss the twitchy-ness of the 100.  

Wow, I wouldn't expect it to make that much of a difference. Thanks so much for the advice. :thumbsup:  

YMMV, I went from a 100mm Tora 318 to a 120mm Recon Gold and it hasn't notably impacted the handling of the bike.  

Check this out http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/100mm-vs-120mm-fork-735875.html#post8413987  

I'm 235lb's and I've ran 100mm 29er fork + 29" wheel which gives me the length of a 180mm fork ( less sag ) on a 100mm XC Frame without an issue. So do it, my ownly issue is I'd say a RS 100mm fork likely out rides a 120mm fox fork, but thats just me.  

I'm doing the opposite, my bike came with a 100mm (Suntour Radion 29) fork and replaced it with a 120mm (Zocchi 44 TST2 Air). The bike creaks a lot and became twitchy/nervous when climbing but forgiving on the rough stuff, left it at the LBS to reduce the travel to 100mm and have the nice handling bike that it was before but with a better fork.  

I think the RS Sektor RL U-turn is a great deal. 110-150 and anywhere in between.  

Why not have the shop install a smaller shim on the Reba to make it go to 120? I'm having the same argument with myself. My HT angle is 71 with a 100mm fork and it is twitchy on the downhills, but excellent on switchbacks and quite responsive on narrow trails. At the end of the season, I will likely have the shop swap out the shims. My only reservation is the affect on standover. Anyone know how I can hypothetically calculate this?  

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