paramo trek

Expedition Colombia

Colombia Adventure Travel

Paramo Trek

Summary 1 day medellín trekking.

The Paramo Trek is an intermediate high-altitude hike that takes you into the highlands of the Andes whereto will walk through one of Colombia’s rarest mountain ecosystems, the Paramo.

After crossing the cloud forest and reaching the plateau, enjoy lunch by a small lake then descend via a different trail and walk on a mystical ridge though the cloud forest. On the way back, visit the charming village of Belmira and sit in the small cafe to sip hot ” agua Panela”.

5 to 6 hours of trekking | 600 meters of elevation gain

• Hike through Páramo de Belmira National Park
• Visit the charming town of Belmira, meaning beautiful view
• Encounter endemic plants of the high-altitude páramo ecosystem, Colombia’s rarest environment
• Panoramic views of Andean mountain ranges
• Bilingual adventure guide (languages: Spanish, English, French)

BOOK THE TRIP

• Meet your professional guide 7 a.m. at our offices near Poblado (calle 8 #43a-89, Medellín).
• Start a scenic drive for 2 hours to Belmira village.
• Climb a steep incline for 2 hours until you reach Lake “Bebedero” in National Park of Belmira.
• Enjoy lunch and snacks at the lake.
• Continue to walk for 4 hours in a loop on an intermediate trail back to the village of Belmira.
• Return to Medellín by 6 pm* traffic dependent.

After breakfast, meet your bilingual guide at 7 a.m. at our offices near Poblado (calle 8 #43a-89, Medellín). Our hiking guide greets you to drive two hours to the village of Belmira, a Spanish-style town located at an altitude of 2,500 m. From the Belmira Cathedral and plaza, take on your intermediate day hike and climb nearly 700 meters in elevation.

As you hike, encounter endemic plants you may have never seen before in your life and discover Colombia’s rarest ecosystem: high-altitude páramo. Páramo are high alpine zones just above the forest line and below the permanent snowline which, according to scientists, are “evolutionary hot spots” with some of the fastest evolving plant systems in the world. In this landscape it is difficult to place where you are: desert, coral reef, high-altitude tundra? There are mountainsides of cacti circling alpine lakes, coral-like plants growing from marshes, and blossoming flowers on succulent plants.

Although all plants are distinct, they share an ability to absorb great amounts of water in the most arid of conditions. For this reason, the Páramo, and not the Amazon rainforest, is largely responsible for Colombia’s water supply. This ecosystem stores water in marshes that drain into groundwater to supply countless Andean rivers. After your hike, drive two hours back to Medellín and return to your boutique hotel located in Poblado by 6 p.m.

• Professional bilingual guide
• Comfortable transport
• Lunches, and snacks with option to purchase bottled water
• Excellent vegetarian, vegan options, gluten-free options* Tell us 1 day in advance if you have any dietary needs or allergies
• Expert bilingual adventure and cultural guides (languages: Spanish, French, English)
• Colombian insurance

• For the hike: sturdy hiking shoes,1 warm fleece (top), hiking pants, rain jacket
• Sunscreen, sunglasses and hat
• Refillable water bottle or purchase bottled water
• Excellent vegetarian, vegan, gluten- free, and other dietary options* please notify us in advance of any special needs
• Enjoy a picnic lunch overlooking the mountain range
• Please bring a refillable water bottle or opt to purchase bottled water

PRICE & RESERVATION

Joined group departure, groups of 4 and above starting at.

For larger groups and groups who want to customize the trip, please contact us directly for the price.

100% deposit must be made 3 days before the trip, for last minute payment and reservation request contact Expedition Colombia. All payment must be done through our booking platform, or via a deposit in our Bancolombia bank account.

*All our prices above do not include IVA.

• According to the Colombian tax system, foreigners are exempted for the IVA.
• For Colombian residents, citizens and foreigners living in Colombia for more than 6 months, 50 % of the total IVA will be charged and the other half will be covered by the company.
• For companies or agencies, the total IVA will be charged.

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Home > Colombia > Colombian Pueblos > An Unforgettable Trek in Colombia's Supernatural Paramo del Sol

An Unforgettable Trek in Colombia's Supernatural Paramo del Sol

Get Out of This World

This post is part of Everything to Know Before Visiting Medellin , a collection of no-B.S., unique guides to an unforgettable stay in Colombia.

Even if you're coming to Colombia for the warm sun, the cold, sometimes freezing,  sun of the Colombia paramo is worth packing a jacket for. Indeed, the sun at the Paramo del Sol may have been the most drop-your-jaw-and-forget-to-take-pictures-while-reconsidering-your-place-in-this-world sun we’ve seen.

And it wasn't just the sun that blew us away on our two-day trek in the Paramo del Sol. There was also the hummingbird beehive, the fairy-tale-worthy moss jungle, the orchids, the views of seemingly all of Colombia, and the high-on-mushrooms-like scenery of the paramo plains. We can't recommend trekking in the Paramo more highly.

If you're interested, here's everything you should know.

Paramo del Sol Trek Guide Outline

This is a big guide, so use the links below to jump directly to sections that most interest you:

• Get to Know the Paramo

Quick Facts about the Trek

• Detailed Trek Itinerary

Alternate Itineraries

Alternate routes.

• What to Pack
• Getting to Urrao and Paramo del Sol
• Where to Stay and Eat in Urrao
• Urrao and Paramo del Sol Map
• Expense Overview

Get to Know the Colombian Paramo

Paramo (see Wikipedia) are tropical alpine ecosystems unique to the northern Ande region. They are biological hotspots and the fastest evolving places on earth (see NYT article) .

For an inspiring overview of the paramo and Colombia’s other amazing ecosystems, we recommend you watch the Planet Earth-like documentary, Colombia: Wild Magic (watch trailer) . It's available on Netflix in many countries.

• Duration: Minimum 7 hours from the base to the top, Alto Campanas. 11 hours or more if you take the less-direct route up and stop along the way, which we recommend.
• Difficulty: Medium-difficult. While our group moaned and groaned about sore legs the day after the trek, we made it up and down with minimal complaint.
• Distance: 14 kilometers on the direct route. We walked the less direct route and made many swamp-avoiding detours that brought our total distance covered to 42 kilometers (a marathon!) over two days—19 km the first day and 23 km the second.
• Elevation: 1,700 m net gain from 2,380 m above sea level at the base to 4,080 m at the top of Alto Campanas.

Paramo del Sol Trek Itinerary

Use this itinerary to get a general idea of the timings for the Paramo del Sol trek and to make sure you don’t miss any highlights.

The timings will obviously depend on your fitness level. Amongst people fit enough to consider doing the trek, our speed was roughly average. Our group of seven—our friends Jorge (owner of Las Cometas Hostel in Jerico ), Jess, Oskar (who took all of the best photos in this post), our two guides, Kim, and I—walked at a steady pace, and took two-to-five minute breaks every hour or so. We’re not mountain goats, but we’re not hippos either.

04:10: It begins

Up well before daylight, we showered and had a quick breakfast that Sandra and Laura from Villa Laura (see: Where to Stay in Urrao ) had gotten out of bed to prepare for us.

We took a taxi to Urrao’s main square (15,000 COP) and met our guide Toño and his friend Chano. Chano was tagging along to help out free-of-charge . The fact that someone would offer to help guide for free in exchange for the privilege of joining says a lot about how amazing the Paramo del Sol Trek it is.

From the main square, we jumped on the daily 5:20 a.m. chiva—a colorful community bus costing 5,000 COP per person—for the 40-minute ride to the Paramo del Sol trailhead, 2,380 meters above sea level (MASL).

06:10 (Hour 0): Starting off on the wrong foot shoes

Dawn broke to reveal an overcast, drizzly day. Our guides had on big rubber boots and waterproof bags. We had running shoes with holes in the soles and garbage bags.

We were concerned. But there was no turning back.

Seeing our poorly protected feet, a couple other hikers who left at the same time as us gave us what proved to be sound advice: Your feet are going to get soaked, so don’t bother trying to keep them dry. Give up, let your shoes get soaked, and get to the top faster so you can dry out and warm up your feet sooner.

8:12 (2 hours in): A warm up to the ranger's station

The first couple of hours of hiking was a good warm up—a gradual uphill mostly through open pasture. We excitedly and nervously approached the mountain that loomed ahead of us.

After an hour-and-a-half, a waterfall with a building below it came into sight. That was to be our first stop, the ranger’s station at the Dusky Starfrontlet Bird Reserve ( Official Page |  TripAdvisor ), 5.2 km and 570 meters above where we started.

8:45: Hummingbird heaven

The hummingbird reserve was the first experience to blew us away.

It was a hummingbird beehive!

There were hundreds of them of all sizes, colors, and beak style fighting over the feeders in front of the lodge. And they weren’t shy. Some even landed on my hat, confusing its bright red color with that of the feeders.

We spent half an hour oohing and ahhing and fruitlessly trying to capture a photo of one on my head.

Important: Unless you want to pay an obscene $50 USD reserve fee, make sure to be in and out of the hummingbird reserve before the ranger gets there at 9 a.m.

10:40 (4.5 hours in): The land of fairy tales

The following section through the woods was the steepest part of the climb.

To keep our minds off the slog, our guide Toño pointed out an abundant variety of orchids and passed around edible and medicinal plants he found along the way—stuff like stinging nettle, wild blackberry, and a mint called poleo . There are so many orchids in this part of the forest that Toño told us one of his friends, a 24-year-old biologist, had discovered four new species himself .

We took a quick break in a clearing with a view of another waterfall and, ten minutes later, entered a land of fairy tales—a forest so overgrown with mossy limbs, vines, and plants that we could hardly tell which way was up.

This made two incredible experiences already, and we hadn’t even made it to the paramo yet.

11:30 (5.5 hours in): Incom- paramo -able scenery

Fifteen minutes from the Lord of the Rings-like land of moss, we emerged into another fairy-tale-like scene: the Paramo del Sol.

We’d seen the videos and photos, but it was only when we saw it with our own eyes that we understood what all the fuss was about. The rolling tundra landscape was covered in fields of yellow-flowered plants called frailejones (see Wikipedia) . It was a surreal cross between France’s sunflower fields (the plants are actually related) and Arizona's cactus fields (except this damp area was the opposite of a desert).

We enjoyed a snack and brewed some coffee on a raised platform before continuing on.

13:20 (7 hours in): Gasping (but not for air)

Our energy was renewed by the hot coffee and the novelty of walking amongst the fields of frailejones. And so what if the weather was wet cloudy and we couldn’t see the valleys below. It added to the atmosphere.

Speaking of atmosphere, it was around this point, as we continued to climb up to a 3,650-meter high crest called El Alto del Burro, that we started to notice the thin air. Fortunately, none of us suffered any ill effects from the altitude. We were probably too busy gasping at the incredible scenery to worry about gasping for air.

13:52: A final challenge

From the top of Alto del Burro, a plateau with lagunas opened up below, backed by a crest of even higher hills. It was down on that plateau that we decided to camp.

Getting down there was the ultimate swampy challenge. At some points, the path sunk into swamps and ponds large enough to support a flock of ducks. Every step was a potential shoe-swallowing disaster. Even the thigh-high tufts of mossy long grass weren’t safe. When we stepped on them they sunk down into the mud like giant marshmallows.

Including all our breaks, it took us 7 hours and 42 minutes to hike from the base to our campsite.

14:24: Setting up

Remarkably, the campsite our guides led us to was completely dry. We could sit on the ground without our butts getting wet and it was flat and perfect for tents.

We gorged on our fiambres (see: Food ) while Toño and Chano vanished then reappeared with armfuls of tarps and some cooking gas. They'd dug them up from a secret stash the Paramo del Sol guides use to avoid having to haul the same things up and down.

Rightfully not trusting our ability to set up a surefire waterproof camp, Toño and Chano set everything up for us. This in itself justified the 200,000 COP fee Toño charged for the two days.

18:40: Exploring, resting, warming-up, and eating

Toño took a Kim, Oskar, and Ion a quick tour of a small waterfall and a big boulder near our campsite while Jorge and Jess warmed up in their tent. We then all rested up a bit before cooking up a bare-bones pasta dinner.

19:00 The Moonrise

Just as the day was coming to an end, an extraordinary thing happened:

The sky started to clear up.

On the eastern horizon, over Alto el Burro, the huge front of angry grey clouds was being pushed aside by clear blue sky. It was the opposite of an end-of-the-world storm scene from a movie like The Day After Tomorrow .

Then we saw what looked like a fire blazing on the hill. At least we thought it was a fire. Chris even asked Toño what was going on.

Then we wondered if it was the sun. It was neither. It was the moon!

Who knows if it was because at our altitude we were closer to the stars or what, but without exaggeration, it was the biggest, brightest full moon we’d ever seen. Until then we didn’t know moon-rises were a thing.

19:40: Getting cold and getting in bed

As the moon rose over the horizon and shrunk into the stars, the cold hit our weak, tropical Colombia acclimated bodies hard. Since Toño and Chano were unable to keep a fire going, we all hurried into our tents to warm up and rest up for even more hiking the next day.

4:45: Is this worth it?

After a second-straight 4 a.m. alarm, we fought our bodies’ self-preservation instincts, crawled out of our sleeping bags, put on every layer of clothes we could, and slipped on our freezing, soaking shoes.

Our destination was Alto Campanas, the highest point in Antioquia.

We all wondered if all this pain would be worth it.

( Spoiler: It was.)

6:00: Misery to majesty

The first thirty minutes of our hike was pure misery.

Despite the full moon, we couldn't see a thing on the path, making it impossible to dodge the swamps. Soaked and muddy with the temperature hovering just above freezing, our feet become numb, and so did our brains as we stumbled forward blindly.

But then came the light.

As we crested the hill above our campsite, the sun started to peek out from the horizon to the east. At the same time, the full moon hovered on the western horizon behind us and the skies above us and cloud-covered valleys of Antioquia below lit up with color.

We stopped shivering with cold and shuddered with delight at the unprecedented beauty all around us.

7:30: The top of Antioquia

The rest of the climb up to Alto Campanas was along mostly dry mountain ridges. We'd see a peak ahead, ask Toño if that was our destination and he'd say it's the next one. Then it was the next one. Then the next.

The fourth peak was, finally, Alto Campanas.

7:50: Alto Campanas

At 4,080 meters above sea level, Alto Campanas is the highest point in Antioquia.

From the top, we could see the craggy peaks of the Farallones, the Choco jungle that leads to the Pacific Ocean, the plains of the Paramo del Sol, and the city of Urrao.

There are a couple campsites at Alto Campanas, but we were glad we'd decided to camp down below. While the views from these campsites were undoubtedly more impressive than from ours, the ground was muddy and we doubted we would've been able to tolerate the extra cold of being 500 meters higher.

9:40: Back to camp and packing up

Since we had to make it all the way back to Medellin that evening, we hustled back down to our campsite. It took just under two hours to return from Alto Campanas to our campsite, where we quickly packed up our gear and started back towards the real world.

14:21: A speedy descent

To make it down as fast as possible, we took a much less scenic but much more direct route down (see Alternate Routes below).

Other than taking short bathroom and snack breaks every hour or so, we plowed ahead.

We made it down from our camp to the base in only four hours, half the time it took us to get up.

While we did the Paramo del Sol trek in two days, camping near Alto del Burro, you can consider these alternate itineraries as well:

Alternate 2-Day Itinerary

Instead of stopping at the plateau below Alto del Burro like we did, you could continue on to Alto Campanas and camp there. Two guys who started at the same time as us did so. They went at the same pace we did and arrived at 16:15, ten hours after starting the hike.

The upsides of camping at Alto Campanas is you’ll have more time to enjoy your second day and, if the weather is clear, have an amazing valley and sunset views.

The downsides are you have to carry your stuff an extra 7 km from Alto del Burro to Alto Campanas, the campsite is higher (so colder) and wetter, and the sunrise views to the east aren’t as good.

Some were happy with our choice to camp where we did, while others thought we should have continued on. Decide for yourself once you get to the first camp.

3-Day Itinerary

If we were to go to the Paramo del Sol again, we’d stay for an extra day. It’s more relaxed and lets you explore the Colombian paramo more fully.

On the second day, you can do a 16km extended loop to Alto Campanas and back, passing by some waterfalls and canyons. Then, on the third day, you can avoid the misery of a freezing wet-footed early morning hike and have a more relaxed hike back down to civilization.

Plus, with an extra day, you increase your chances of having a clear sunrise, moonrise, and sunset.

There are three different routes from the base to the Paramo del Sol. We recommend you follow the itinerary we did, taking the Hummingbird Route up and the Direct Route down, but you might choose otherwise depending on how much time you have.

[Update:] Handy input from Ryan and Alex's comment below :

We did your route in reverse, starting along the right side of your map up the Direct Route/Camino 14. We did this because a bunch of fellow hikers told us that the Hummingbird Route was closed because there was no bridge. However, by the top, many guides told us that the route was open, so we decided to go for it.

We descended along the Hummingbird Route and it was great! At the very bottom, there was no bridge to cross the river so we were about to ford it. But, then the ranger came out and made a bridge for us with a few planks of wood. We tried to pay but he didn’t accept it, so we passed through (after 9 AM) without paying at all.

The one change from your Wikiloc map is that a farmer planted a new field right in the middle of the Hummingbird Route near the start of the trail. It’s very well fenced off with barbed wire, so I’d recommend staying on the Direct Route/Camino 14 up until the covered wooden bridge then beelining up the hill to meet up with the Hummingbird Route.

Hummingbird Route

This route past the hummingbird reserve and the moss forest is the western (left) path marked out here on Wikiloc . In terms of steepness and distance, it falls in between the other two routes.

Be sure to make it past the ranger station before 9 a.m. or else be prepared to pay the 50 USD reserve entrance fee (or a much more reasonable 20,000 COP for Colombians). [APR 2019 UPDATE: According to Diana in the comments, the fee is now a much more reasonable COP50,000.]

Direct Route:

This is the route to take if you’re in a rush to get up to the Paramo del Sol or back down. "Camino 14," as our guide said it’s called, is the route mules have been taking ever since potato farmers lived in the paramo over a hundred years ago.

We walked—ok stumbled—down it and were glad we didn’t come up it. It’s steep . And it’s not particularly beautiful, especially since we had to keep our heads down, focused on the loose rocks on the path to avoid breaking our ankles. We could have passed right under a family of spectacled bears without even knowing.

Camino 14 isn't all bad though. At times the path is so eroded you walk in a dramatic three-meter high moss-covered gulley.

If you download Wikiloc and pay 2.99 USD for the three-month subscription, you can use this map to guide you on GPS.

Slow but Steady Route

This third option is called Camino 15. We didn’t take it and couldn’t find anyone who’d recorded the route on WIkiloc, but according to our guide, it’s the slowest, most relaxed way to get up to the Paramo del Sur.

You might consider this route if you’re doing a three-day trek since you’ll have more time to get up and down.

What to Pack for the Colombian Paramo

If you’re worried about having the right gear for a Paramo del Sol trek, you’re right.

We were definitely worried. We came to Colombia to chill in tropical weather, not freeze in the alpine cold. But even though we didn't have ideal camping gear, we survived.

Chris packed everything from his  minimalist packing list minus the electronics, shorts, and sleeveless shirts, and adding in a warm hat. Aside from those clothes, here’s what else you should consider packing.

Absolutely Mandatory

• Food – See Food section below
• Cooking stove – If you hire a guide, they will be able to provide one, but confirm with them in advance nevertheless.
• Tent – The guide can provide a tent if you don’t have one. Ask in advance.
• Sleeping bag – Our guides were unable to provide these.
• Sleeping mat – We forgot about sleeping mats and paid the consequences with a freezing cold sleep.
• Waterproof covers for gear – If you don’t have proper waterproof covers for your packs, garbage bags will do the trick. Bring extras just in case.

Makes the Trek Much Better

• Waterproof boots – Your feet and ill-equipped running shoes will thank you.
• Crocs sandals – We were all jealous when we met a guy at Alto Campanas wearing a cozy pair of dry socks in Crocs sandals.
• A warm hat – Also known as a toque in Canadian. You'll want this at night and in the early morning when temperatures hover around freezing.
• Extra socks – …Especially if you don’t have waterproof boots. No matter how many pairs you bring, you’ll use them all.
• Bright colors – My red hat was a beacon for hummingbirds. A few even landed on it, probably mistaking it for one of the feeders of the same color. The more you look like a flower, the more you attract hummingbirds.

Make your hike easier by not packing more food than you need, but bring some luxuries if you’d like. The hike up to the Paramo del Sol isn't so hard you need to ration down to the last grain of rice or anything.

For example, we brought a 250 ml. juice box of rum up and mightily appreciated taking fiery swallows at night when it was too wet to get our campfire going.

Here’s the food we brought:

• 1st day lunch: Fiambres from El Punto de Sabor in Urrao’s town square (see: Map and Urrao Info below). Though our guide said these were like tamales, they're better described as bandeja Paisas wrapped in a banana leaf. They had rice, potato, chicharron, ground beef, a big chorizo. They were so big Chris suspected the name “fiambre” was derived from a mash-up of “finita la hambre.”
• Dinner: Dried pasta with a salsa made from powdered pasta sauce and powdered milk and some chopped up garlic.
• Drinks: Rum, Water.
• Breakfast: Granola and granola bars.

Don’t worry about water. Streams with fresh, clean water are abundant. We, and the others we met en route, all drank from it and we promise we're not writing this from a toilet seat.

How to Find a Guide?

Send a Whatsapp to Toño. His number is +57 310 330 2304. As Liz mentions in the comments, he's excellent.

Phillip did the hike in 2021 and left a comment recommending his guide, Brayan, too. His WhatsApp number +57 313 582 5484.

Do You Need a Guide?

We first thought 200,000 COP was overpriced for a guide, but it turned out to be an excellent investment.

Without Toño and Chano we wouldn’t have known the best routes and where the best water sources are, had access to the secret stash of gear and tarps on the paramo, learned interesting facts about the flora and fauna, and had the number of a taxi to pick us up after the hike.

But if you're an experienced hiker, have all the gear, and can find whichever route you want to follow on Maps.Me or elsewhere, and rather sacrifice on local knowledge to save money, you could get away without a guide.

How to Get to Urrao and the Paramo del Sol

Medellin to urrao.

Buses to Urrao leave from Medellin’s south terminal, take five hours, and cost about 30,000 pesos. Three different bus companies cover the route.

Important: Beware that the last bus from Urrao to Medellin leaves at 4 p.m.

If you come by car, it can take four hours instead of five to get between Medellin and Urrao, but you’ll probably take longer because you’ll want to stop along the way to properly absorb sights such as Cerro Tusa, the world’s tallest natural pyramid (which you can hike) and the death-defyingly steep coffee farms around Betulia.

Urrao to the Paramo del Sol Trailhead

The trailhead for the Paramo del Sol is about 40 minutes from town at what’s called la Terminal de Chuscal. You have three options to get there:

• Chiva: The public bus/cargo-vehicle/colorful-crate-on-wheels leaves daily at 5:15 a.m. and returns to town at 3:30 p.m.
• Taxi: From town it costs 50,000 to 60,000 COP
• Your own car: There is a small parking lot at the trailhead. It’s unguarded, but the owners of the four cars that were parked there when we went by didn’t seem to mind.

Tip: Write down the number of the taxis before setting off on your Paramo del Sol trek so that you can call one in advance to pick you up at the bottom of the hill.

Where to Stay in Urrao

For unparalleled hospitality:.

If you’re coming in your own car, Villa Laura ( Booking.com | Tripadvisor | Official Site ) is a can’t miss choice. Sandra, the owner, takes hospitality to levels as high as the Paramo del Sol itself.

To give you a couple examples, she made us breakfast at 4 a.m. before we set off on our hike and offered us hot tea, an empty room, and towels to clean up and warm up after our trek even though we weren’t staying there.

Villa Laura's rooms are tidy, in great shape, and affordable (about 60,000 COP per person per night).

For Convenient Location:

If you come by bus, you’re better off staying in town. We would’ve stayed at Hotel Colonial Urrao ( Booking.com | Google Reviews ) because it has great reviews and an ideal location right on Urrao's main square, where the chivas and taxis leave for the trailhead.

Help us help you: Wherever you stay in Urrao, if you book on Booking.com after clicking our links to the site, you'll be thanking us for this guide by rewarding us with a small percent of the booking at no extra cost to you.

Where to Eat in Urrao

Healthy pre-hike food.

Eco Tienda Urrao ( Facebook Page | Google Reviews ) uses local ingredients to prepare both vegetarian and meat-based meals. Service was slow but friendly. Even us meat-eaters preferred the veggie burger to the meat one.

Hearty Hike Food

As we mentioned in the Food section above, the fiambres from El Punto del Sabor (see Map) are enormous, hearty, portable, and cheap energy packs perfect for the hike up.

Sweet Cheese

Urrao’s famous artisanal treat is called queso dulce . Maybe it’s called queso because there’s milk in it, but it’s not cheese. It’s fudge. You can buy bricks of it all over town. We got some from the house right beside Villa Laura for 1,000 COP a brick, a third the price it was in town. It went well with tea.

For your reference, here’s a summary of some of the expenses you can expect on a Paramo del Sol trek:

• 200,000 COP total for a guide (2 days), including all the gear he can help you get ( Dec 2019 Update: A reader in the comments says they paid 300k for 3 days and got a stay and dinner with with Toño's mom the night before included.)
• 60,000 COP per person per night at Villa Laura
• 10,000 COP fiambres from Punto del Sabor
• 30,000 COP bus from Medellin to Urrao
• 5,000 COP chiva from Urrao to the Paramo del Sol trailhead
• 50,000 COP taxi from Urrao to the Paramo del Sol trailhead
• 11,000 COP dinner of a veggie burger with fries and salad from Eco Tienda restaurant in Urrao

Can Anything Top the Colombian Paramo?

In a literal sense, there's not much that can top the Colombian Paramo. The Paramo del Sol is the highest point in Antioquia after all.

But there are lots of adventures that come close—including hikes to waterfalls, pyramids, and prisons. And most are easily doable as day trips from Medellin. See our extensive list of hike guides here .

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38 thoughts on “An Unforgettable Trek in Colombia's Supernatural Paramo del Sol”

Thanks so much for the write up Chris, was great having you guys as company. What an adventure it was!

And thanks to your photos, because without them everyone who reads this would think I'm overexaggerating about how out-of-this-world the paramo is. Can't argue with those photos though.

Ahahaha I agree, nobody can't argue. It looks fu***ng amazing mate!! I've never heard about Paramo del Sol. You found, once again, a great place to explore ;). I HAVE to get there!

Do you know if you can rent rubber boots in Villa Laura or Urrao? And where did you book the tour? At Villa Laura?

Yeah, Tom, if you've got the chance, don't miss out.

Since we didn't know rubber boots were such a necessity until it was too late, we didn't rent them and don't know exactly who to ask. But as you suspected in your question, I bet Sandra can sort you out…. as long as your feet are Colombian-sized (size 10 or smaller). Size 12 and above might be a bit of an issue, since nobody sells shoes that size around the country. Laura can also hook you up with a guide—she was the one who connected us with our guides, Toño and Chano.

Hope you manage to sort out the trip and have an even better time than us. If you do, keep us posted on how it went.

Thanks so much for writing this fanstastic guide. Questions: how far in advance did you organise your guides, and would it be possible to book without staying at Laura’s? I’m thinking about going in a few days, but googling hasn’t yielded much more.

Hey Marielle. Our guides were booked pretty last-minute. We only met with Toño to make arrangements the evening before our hike and Chano was an unexpected (but pleasant) surprise. Even if you don't stay with Laura, there's no doubt she can put you in touch with him or another guide if need be. We're not exaggerating in saying how hospitable she is. I don't think she speaks English though, so if you don't speak Spanish you'll need to find someone to call her on your behalf.

If you could, please let us know what you end up sorting out so we can help future Paramo-ers out with your added insight.

Great blog bro so glad I found this little gem!

Whether the gem you're referring to is our site or the Paramo del Sol trek, we're glad you came across it! Gracias, Mark.

Hi, loved the write up so much we are thinking about going this weekend! (Its Nov 27 right now). But as its rainy season we are worried about it being super rainy, and were thinking it might be better to hold off until dry season say January? What's yr take on likelihood of endless miserable rain? Ideally we would have a clear summit morning..

Thanks in advance!

Dang, sorry we couldn't get back to you sooner Justin (we were lost somewhere on our "Hectic Route" in South Africa). In any case, I don't know the weather there well enough to know what to tell you other than suggest possibly asking Laura from Villa Laura. The trek definitely wouldn't be too pleasant if it's raining all the time.

Hi guys great trip report and great blog overall. We're nearing the start of a 7mo sabbatical trip and headed down and planning to do the trek. Any chance you have the contact info for the Tono?

Also, we're debating whether we try to drag our camping gear around with us or rent. We plan to do a fair amount of trekking while in SA but the idea of packing tent, stove, bag, pad) for 10-12 days of camping seems not smart. Any advice?

Hey Brandon – Sorry, we don't have Tono's contact, but Laura from Villa Laura would be able to give it to you. Jorge from Las Cometas Hostel, who did the trek with us, should have it too (you may want to spend some time in Jerico and hang out with him there anyways). As for whether to bring gear or not… we're not too helpful there, sorry, cuz this was the only real trek we did. Oh, I know: Ask our friend Oskar. He did way more trekking than us and brought his own gear. Ask him if he felt it was worth it, or if he would've been better off renting. You can find him at renounce_the_cubicle on Instagram and message him there.

Big thanks man! Keep up the great writing.

Hey. Thank you for this great guideline. I will be in Medellin in March and now I´m thinking about organizing this Trek. Do you know how I can contact your guides or how I could find a serioud guide online? I would like to plan things in advance but I´m not sure how to find a guide. Greetings from Germany Adrianna

Hey Adrianna. It's definitely a good idea to plan in advance. As I mentioned in previous comments, I don't have Toño's contact, so I recommend reaching out to Laura from Villa Laura or maybe even Jorge from Las Cometas Hostel in Jericho. Buen viaje!

Hey Adrianna, Our guide Toño just tagged us on Facebook out of the blue, so now I have his Facebook profile through which you can possibly contact him about guiding: here it is: https://www.facebook.com/antonio.restrepo.908

Hello there,

I have read your article with great interested and I want to do a similiar type of tour in the Paranamo. I have trouble finding a guide. Could you please give me the contact of your guide please? Or maybe you can recommend me an agency that offers these tours.

Your help is greatly appreciated. Looking forward to hearing from you.

All best Michael

Hello Michael. It just so happens that I found Toño's Facebook yesterday. (Actually he found me.) I shared it in response to the previous comment here and also linked to it in the post.

I reached out to Toño today about this trek, and the fee has been increased to 300.000 COP per person (!!!) for a trek of two nights and three days. Sadly, it doesn't seem to be very affordable anymore.

Hmmm… sounds like Toño's taking advantage of the PR this post is giving him. He's far from the only guide in town. I suggest reaching out to Laura of Villa Laura, or your host wherever you'll stay in Urrao, to ask if they know any other guides. There's no way prices should have jumped so much in just one year.

Update…the entrance fee fare for the non residents just changed on April 12, 2019, it is now COP50.000=

Thanks Diana! I really appreciate it, and so too will readers who will benefit from the correct info… and from a more reasonable park entrance fee! 50USD was crazy. COP50k makes sense.

Hi, I am reading this and sounds very interesting! Link to to the guide Tono (antonio restrepo) is broken, could you help me get in touch with him please? Tks for sharing all your experience!

Hi Simone. Yeah, it looks like Toño took down his FB profile. Since I don't have his phone number your best bet is then to reach out to Laura from Villa Laura and ask her for his contact or that of another guide.

How did you find your guide for the hike and was it necessary, or can my girlfriend and I hike it on our own, like is the trail well marked?

Hey Liz, I've updated this post with my answer and opinion on your two questions (see: Guides ).

We did the 2 days trek starting from yesterday. The bus ride is horrible (155km in 6 hours). The hike up is incredibly hard, we had quite a bit of rain (can happen). The reward at the top wasn't worth the trouble, compared to other hikes we did. But we couldn't make it to the top at the laguna, cause our guide (Alfonso, a really good one!) Said it was not possible today. Could not recommend this to anyone.

But the tips of the website here were very very helpfull, thank you! And if anyone wants a guide, our guide Alfonso gave us his telephone number and he has WhatsApp! 3113346983

Hey Katrijne. I'm really sorry your experience was nothing like ours. We too had some rain plus we dealt with miserable cold (mostly due to being unprepared), but were more than compensated by some of the sites I tried to describe. Sounds like you got the short end of the stick. Once again, I'm sorry about that. Thanks a ton for the contact of your guide. We get the question a lot, so I'm sure plenty of readers will benefit from it. All the best!

Thank you Chris and Kim for all the useful info and tips. My wife and I just completed a three-day trek with Tono. We can absolutely recommend it. I suppose we were quite lucky with the weather as there was no rain. I would say the trek is quite challenging and I'm not sure we would have been able to make it without a guide. It would have certainly been much more difficult and possibly less fun. The price was 300k/person. But it was well worth it as it included food and accommodation at Tono's mom the night before we set out.

Thanks to you Martin and Denisa for your comment. We're so happy you had a great time, too. You made our morning!

300k for 3 days, so at 100k/day it was the same as what we paid, but you got dinner and accommodation, too. $86US. What a deal!

Hi Kim and Chris! Thanks for the info. My husband and I did this hike last week without a guide, so your Wikiloc map came in handy!

I haven't seen any comments since COVID so I thought I'd write. We did your route in reverse, starting along the right side of your map up the Direct Route/Camino 14. We did this because a bunch of fellow hikers told us that the Hummingbird Route was closed because there was no bridge. However, by the top, many guides told us that the route was open, so we decided to go for it.

We descended along the Hummingbird Route and it was great! At the very bottom, there was no bridge to cross the river so we were about to ford it. But, then the ranger came out and made a bridge for us with a few planks of wood. We tried to pay but he didn't accept it, so we passed through (after 9 AM) without paying at all.

The one change from your Wikiloc map is that a farmer planted a new field right in the middle of the Hummingbird Route near the start of the trail. It's very well fenced off with barbed wire, so I'd recommend staying on the Direct Route/Camino 14 up until the covered wooden bridge then beelining up the hill to meet up with the Hummingbird Route.

Thanks again, guys!

Hey Alex. Nice to hear from you again! Thanks for the updated info. I'm going to put this above so everyone sees it.

Hello! I am looking to do this hike in April 2021. Since this post was written, COVID has changed everything, especially security in the country. Can you comment on how you got to Urrao (I'm guessing by bus?). And if you felt making the transfer from MDE to Urrao was safe. Thanks a bunch! ~Phillip

Hi! Just got back from Paramo del Sol! It was AMAZING. We did a 3 day, 2 night trip.

One word of warning. It's extremely wet out there. Get the boots!

If anyone is looking for a good guide, we had Brayan Flores leading us through the Paramo. He was great – knew all the routes, showed us hummingbirds & orchids, took us to a spectacular peak overlooking Urrao. He speaks basic English. Took really good to of us!

Contact info for Brayan: WhatsApp +57 313 5825484

We met Toño too, but he couldn't go due to a family emergency. Brayan was just as great!

Oh, also, GET THE BOOTS!

Hey Phillip. Glad to hear you had just as wet and wonderful of a time as we did. And thanks so much for sharing Brayan's contact. I've added it to the Guides section of the post.

Hello guys!

I'm Liz, I just came down from the paramo del sol and it was absolutely lovely. I had two incredible starry nights, I saw the Milky Way and dozens of shooting stars, in addition to the most beautiful sunrise and sunset I have ever seen. I went with Toño and he made the journey an unforgettable experience. I do not know other guides, but he has a particular charm, his mystery, magic and discretion made him an excellent guide to walk the mountain. The paramo del sol is a place between the mountains that is as beautiful as the sea but closer to the stars.

This is Toño's Whataspp: (+57) 310 330 2304.

Glad to hear it. And big thanks for Toño's number! I've updated the post accordingly.

What do you think? (Leave a Comment.) Cancel reply

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Trekking in Los Nevados National Park, Colombia

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Many travellers flock to the picturesque town of Salento, located in the Coffee Triangle, for the coffee, colourfully painted town and the famous wax palms of the Cocora Valley. Salento is amazing and all of those are worthy of a visit. But, Salento is also a gateway to Los Nevados National Park offering some of the best trekking in Colombia , visiting the unique ecosystem of the area, volcanoes and glaciers.

• 1 About Los Nevados
• 2.1 Day 1 – Cocora Valley to Finca Argentina
• 2.2 Day 2 – Finca Argentina to Finca Jordan
• 2.3 Day 3 – Finca Jordan to Pereira
• 3 Paramo Trek Review
• 4 About Salento
• 5 About Pereira
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About Los Nevados

Colombia’s boasts 59 National Parks, representing an impressive 14% of the country. Los Nevados National Park was established in 1973 and is known for its snow-capped volcanoes, glaciers, and paramo ecosystem. Most of the mountains in Los Nevados are volcanic and the highest, Nevado del Ruiz (5,325m) is best known for a catastrophe in 1985. Within the park there are opportunities to see many species of birds, danta (mountain tapir), condor and more.

For us, the real attraction was an opportunity to experience the paramo. The paramo is an alpine tundra ecosystem above the continous treeline and below the permanent snow line. The vegetation mostly consists of espeletia (frailejones), cactus-like shrubs that rise up out of the yellow grasses. The paramo is vital for the region as it acts as a water storage system, controlling the flow of water into the rivers that supply the farms, towns and cities of the surrounding area. The majority of the paramo ecosystems occur in the Colombian Andes, making Los Nevados one of the best hikes in Colombia.

What makes Los Nevados so spectacular though is the range of ecosystems that you trek through from the lower forest to the high Andean forest to the paramo and possibly onto glaciers. While trekking, you get to see the real Colombia, the incredible countryside, endless waterfalls and experience the warmth of staying in isolated fincas (farms).

There are many Los Nevados treks to choose, from summiting peaks to multi-day treks into the paramo. We are so glad that we found Paramo Trek , a company based in Salento, that offers Los Nevados hikes, along with other adventures. This is one of the best areas for hiking in Colombia and we are so glad we added this trek to our Colombia itinerary in 2023.

3 Day Trek in Los Nevados Detailed Guide

We contacted Paramo Trek a few weeks before our arrival in Salento via What’s App and they promptly provided us with detailed trek info about a variety of 3-day treks. With their help, we opted for the “Cocora – Otun Quimbaya” trek and since there were four of us, they started a group for us for the dates we requested. The trek cost 980,000 COP/person (about $210 USD) although the cost is a sliding scale depending on how many trekkers are in your group. The trekking is difficult due to the terrain, elevation and distances travelled, so we would recommend it for people with some experience hiking.

On the day before your trek, there is a mandatory pre-trek meeting at the Paramo Trek office where they review the route, packing checklist, trek details and altitude safety. This gave us time to rent some of the gear we needed at Kilometer 0, a small outfitting shop in Salento. We have a full packing list below and explain what Paramo provides and what you may need to rent.

We had two others sign up for our trek, leaving us with a group of 6 trekkers and 2 guides. We would depart from the Paramo Trek office in Salento and finish in Pereira, a large regional city 1 hour from Salento.

Day 1 – Cocora Valley to Finca Argentina

12 km, 1150 m (7.5 miles, 3770 ft) elevation gain

Our trek started at 7 am on day 1 at Paramo Trek’s offices in Salento. Since our trek finished in a different city, they would send the bags we weren’t taking to Pereira for us. So we had our trekking backpacks and other bags with us. From there we met our fabulous guides, Estevan and Fabian and headed to a nearby cafe for a traditional Colombian breakfast together. This was a nice opportunity to meet our fellow trekkers and get to know the guides. Both guides brought different skills to the trek. Fabian was a wildlife biologist who had worked for years as a ranger in Colombia’s National Parks. Throughout the trek he pointed out and explained various flora, fauna and wildlife. Estefan was incredibly passionate about the outdoors, trekking, conservation and we loved his enthusiasm.

After breakfast, we took a private transport to the Cocora Valley, 25 minutes away. The Cocora Valley is breathtakingly beautiful with the massive wax palms rising up out of the forest and fields. While this is the starting point of the trek, you quickly enter the forest, so we would suggest visiting the Cocora Valley on its own before.

There is no question about it, the first day is an uphill slog. But, the lush forest is beautiful and the guides showed us a variety of medicinal plants and native birds. Since it rains almost every day in this region and since the trails are used by horses as well, the trails are very muddy. Although hiking in rain boots was a first for us, we felt really good about that recommendation.

Shortly after starting to hike, it started raining and we donned our rain jackets or ponchos and rain pants and continued our upward path. Luckily our group moved at a similar speed, but we always had a guide leading and at the rear. We would stop every 30-60 minutes for a rest, drink and snack. Paramo provides you with three snack bags (one for each day of the trek), each filled with different snacks to power you thoughout the day. Around noon we stopped to eat our packed lunches under the protection of a large tree.

After lunch we made good time, and arrived at our home for the night, Finca Argentina at about 3 pm. We had covered 12 km (7.5 miles) and gained 1,150m (3770 ft) in elevation, bringing us to 3,400m (11,150 ft) and we started to notice the thinner air. The fincas (farms) are simple structures with rustic bunk beds for trekkers. There was a Western toilet (minus the seat), a hot shower and Paramo filtered water for us to refill out bottles. Finca Argentina looked out over the valley and we had beautiful views of the surrounding mountains shrouded in clouds.

We spent the afternoon enjoying hot drinks, including the new-to-us, agua panela (hot sugar cane drink), relaxing and taking in the view of the countryside and farm animals. There was only one other trekking group spending the night at Finca Argentina with us – a group of 4. We enjoyed a beautiful sunset and a simple dinner of hot soup, rice, and bacon or egg (for vegetarians) before an early and exhausted bedtime. Before bed, the guides briefed us on the plan for the next day and instructed us to drink water throughout the night to help with the altitude. Some of us had minor headaches and it was definitely chilly, but the finca provided us each with three thick blankets, so we were cozy.

Day 2 – Finca Argentina to Finca Jordan

15 km, 750m (9.3 miles, 2,460ft) elevation gain

Day 2 saw us wake at 6 am, have a simple breakfast and start trekking under clear skies by 7 am. This was the day we were most excited about as we would be trekking in the paramo ecosystem for most of the day. We had wonderful views of the surrounding mountains and down the valley and spotted danta (mountain tapir) tracks in the mud on the trail. The guide spotted him on the trail up ahead and we raced along the trail, but only a few of us were able to see him before he was scared off.

We continued to feel the effects of the altitude and the thinner air as we hiked. We entered the transition zone between the high Andean forest and the paramo and started to see our first espeletia plants, which are the main vegetation of the paramo. These unique shrubs reminded us of the Dr. Seuss book, “The Lorax” and we learned how important they are to the paramo and storing water for the cities and towns nearby.

As we reached the highest point of our trek, 4200m (13,780 ft), the clouds had moved in. Our youngest son was feeling very ill, likely due to the altitude and it was a struggle to make much progress. We gave him medicine and the guides were very helpful and even made him coco tea on the trail, but he struggled for a few hours and Paul even had to carry him for sections.

We crested a ridge and the skies cleared and we were surrounded by espeletias and views into the valley we would be descending. We rested here, taking in the view, enjoying snacks and a chocolate present from the guides. Miles had perked up as we descended and we were all releived to see him feeling better.

We descended to Finca Berlin for a late lunch. All of the fincas in Los Nevados have funny names, after places all over the world. Finca Berlin was beautiful with rising cliffs surrounding it on two sides. We were invited into the kitchen for hot drinks, soup and a really good meal.

We couldn’t stay too long though because we had to continue on to our home for the night, Finca Jordan. As we descended out of the paramo and into another valley, we had beautiful views of massive waterfalls and a few farms dotting the mountainside. We continued to descend to the lovely Finca Jordan with a massive waterfall view right from the front porch. We really enjoyed this finca as well – the views were fantastic and the food delicious.

We couldn’t help marvelling at the challenges these farmers face living in these harsh and remote conditions. In talking with the guides, we learned that the National Park is trying to encourage them to move more towards tourism and reducing the livestock they are allowed to have in the National Park. Our guides think tourism is a very positive thing for the National Park and a more sustainable way for the farmers to support themselves.

It was another early bedtime, after a hearty dinner, hot showers, some wine and some time relaxing in the cozy kitchen.

Day 3 – Finca Jordan to Pereira

14 km, 1000m downhill (8.8 miles, 3,280 ft) downhill

As we were having breakfast on the third day, our host received a telephone call alerting her that Nevado del Ruiz, the active volcano in Los Nevados was measuring increased seismic activity and since we were in the red zone, we were to evacuate. This was a bit disconcerting to hear, especially since this had not happened since 1985! We finished our breakfast and quickly set out downwards towards the finishing point of our trek.

We moved quickly, but still had time to appreciate the lush forest and see a variety of birds, plants and even a giant worm. Luckily we hadn’t had any rain since the first day, even if we were threatened with dark clouds, and thunder and lightning everyday. The last day was walking mostly on rocks and even though our rubber boots had been great up until then, we were excited to put on our hikers for the rocky trail.

We made really good time and arrived at our ending point and a small restaurant, where we had lunch. The guides received updates and photos of the volcano erupting, although we were happy that we were out of the red zone now. After a delicious lunch, we sorted through our gear and waited for our transport that would take us the hour and a half to Pereira. The road out of the protected area was really bumpy and required a 4WD truck. It was strange to arrive in busy Pereira, a large city of 500,000 after so many days in nature. The truck took us all to the bus station where our other bags had been shipped. After exchanging contact info and thanking our guides, our trek was officially over.

Paramo Trek Review

We paid in full for our Paramo Trek and we can truly say that we are so happy we chose Paramo Trek. From the minute we contacted them through Whats App, they were super responsive, helpful and professional. They have a calendar with the treks they are offering, but often a trek is started once there is a group formed.

We found the trek information they provided really helpful and the pre-trek meeting really informative to get us prepared for the trek. The guides were fantastic – really knowledgeable about the National Park and ecosystem and very focused on safety. They travelled with a lot of safety gear from radios to a portable stove to water filters. The Paramo Trek staff that works in the office had the trek really well organized with our snack bags, route planning and bookings. They also lent us trekking poles and rain pants at no cost.

If you don’t want to do a multi-day trek, they offer one-day hikes and activities as well.

About Salento

We loved the town of Salento and you should definitely plan for some time in Salento before your trek (minimum 2 days). This will also give you a chance to get acclimatized since Salento sits at 1900m (6,200 ft). We hope to have a full post coming soon all about Salento, but make sure you visit the Cocora Valley, wander Calle Real and the central Plaza, visit a coffee farm and enjoy the wonderful cafes and restaurants in the town. We also think hiking in Los Nevados is one of the best things to do in Salento.

We stayed at Coffee Tree Boutique Hostel in Salento, which was amazing. They have dorms, private rooms and even a family room. The views are incredible from the hostel, they organize free activities daily and are so helpful in planning your time in Salento. We loved hanging out in the communal areas, sipping free coffee and tea and eating homemade cake.

About Pereira

The various treks that Paramo Trek offers end in different places. Our trek ended in Pereira, the nearest city from our exit point. Pereira is a large city and not one we would recommend spending a lot of time in. We stayed one night in Pereira after the trek, before heading to our next destination, Jardin.

Casa Azul is the best budget option in Pereira with its central location and full hostel amenities. Click here to get the best price.

Colombia Trekking Packing List

Paramo Trek will provide you with a packing checklist when you book your trek and will go over it at the pre-trek meeting. This trek is difficult and since you are at elevation in cold and wet conditions, it is important that you are well prepared.

Paramo Trek loans you good hiking poles, which are really important in the mud. They also lent us rain pants, which were very useful on the first day when we hiked in the rain for hours. In Salento, there is a small outfitting shop called Kilometer 0 where you can rent or buy various outdoor gear.

What to bring on your Lost Nevados trek?

• 40 L Backpack , ideally with a rain cover – we are big Osprey fans
• Trekking poles – these are the most economical, but we borrowed for this trip
• Rubber boots – rent these from Kilometer 0 for 5,000 COP/day
• Hiking Shoes/Boots – wear these in the evenings and possibly on the third day
• Sleeping bag liner – no need for a sleeping bag, there are warm blankets at each finca
• Rain Jacket – this is what we travel with, but you can also rent them
• Rain pants – we borrowed
• Poncho – even if you have a rain jacket, these are helpful to stay dry and can go over your pack too. You can buy these everywhere in Salento, including Kilometer 0.
• 4 pairs of Socks – good hiking socks (we prefer merino) – one for each day and one for night
• 1 Shorts to hike in
• 2 pairs of Pants – one to hike in and one for evenings
• 2 quick-dry T-shirts
• 1 longsleeve shirt for the evenings
• 1 mid-weight layer
• 1 warm jacket/fleece
• Head lamp – some of the farms have solar electricity, but better to have your own light source
• Travel Towel
• 1.5 L of water/person – we love our bladders , but you can also use Nalgenes
• Sunscreen and toiletries
• Battery Bank – to charge your phone

Pack all of your clothes in a plastic bag for extra protection from the rain. No need to bring any food or snacks – plenty is provided.

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A beautiful 3 day hike through the Los Nevados National Park, starting in Salento and finishing in Manizales.

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