dordogne trip report

The Perfect 4 to 5-Day Dordogne Road Trip Itinerary

Published on July 19, 2023

by Brittany Scott-Gunfield

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The Dordogne Valley is one of the best locations in France for a family holiday, with many quaint villages to visit, prehistoric caves to explore and, of course, the Dordogne River to kayak down and cool off in. 4 to 5 days in Dordogne is perfect to follow the river and visit the must-see destinations in the region, and our Dordogne road trip itinerary will take you through the most logical route to see and experience as much as possible.

If you don’t have a car, don’t worry! You can always rent a canoe or kayak and have a great getaway in the Dordogne.

Table of Contents

How Many Days in Dordogne?

The Dordogne Valley stretches further than just the Dordogne region, so you might end up spending more time in the area than you anticipate.

What’s more, there are no big cities in the area for a city break or weekend away, so if you’re wondering how many days to spend in Dordogne for your holiday, consider that to see most of the sights you’ll spend a couple of hours each day on the road, so you’ll want to spend at least 3 days in Dordogne, although ideally around a week.

One of the best-known and most popular activities in the Dordogne is kayaking down the Dordogne River, and you can rent boats of different sizes from many locations along the river, from half a day up to a week, and make use of the free bus rides taking you back to your original location.

So, to make the most of the area and enjoy at least a day on the river, you’ll need to spend 3 days in Dordogne, but if you want to see more of what the area has to offer, from the cliffside town of Rocamadour to the underground rivers of Padirac, 4 days in Dordogne is best.

However, since the Dordogne is a warm, slow-paced, rural location, to fully enjoy the activities as well as get a feel for the culture and enjoy some downtime with a pastis in one hand and a book in the other, you should try to spend 5 days in Dordogne or more.

You can base yourself in a central location such as Gourdon and take short trips each day to minimise moving around a lot, or you can follow our Dordogne road trip itinerary along the Dordogne River and camp or rent properties in each location to minimise your time on the road.

Getting To & Around Dordogne

The Dordogne is not the easiest location to reach with public transport, so you’re best off driving there if you’re comfortable taking long journeys in the car.

The biggest airport near the region is Bordeaux Airport, so if you’re coming from a faraway location, your best option may be to fly to Bordeaux , rent a car and drive to the Dordogne. You can browse Rentalcars.com to compare prices for car hire.

However, you can also fly from some destination to Bergerac, the most central and one of the largest towns in the Dordogne, or to Brive-Souillac Airport which is closer to the stops on our route, but a much smaller airport.

There are trains and buses traversing the region, however, the timetables aren’t particularly convenient for tourists, especially for the smaller villages, so having to rely on public transport may disrupt your enjoyment of the area.

The roads are in very good condition though, so you can easily cycle through the Dordogne or drive through and enjoy a 5-day Dordogne road trip, moving around at your own pace.

Within each village, you’ll find you won’t need public transport as each destination is easily walkable, although if you want to save your legs or whizz around a village and rush to the next stop on your Dordogne itinerary, there’s a petit train (a small tourist train with an audio guide) in most places.

4 to 5 Days in Dordogne Itinerary

The 300-mile Dordogne River provides the valley with lush vegetation and great biodiversity for you to enjoy as you travel through the area.

But the Dordogne Valley is also home to some of France’s most spectacular prehistoric sites and 21 winners of the “Most Beautiful Villages in France” award, so there’s plenty to get stuck into in 4 to 5 days in Dordogne.

Day 1 – Collonges-la-Rouge to Bretenoux

Our itinerary to visit the Dordogne Valley will take you on a circular route, assuming you start your journey in Brive-Souillac Airport where you can rent a car for the duration of your trip. However, you can also begin in Bergerac or Bordeaux and join the loop from whichever location is most convenient.

Collonges-la-Rouge

The first stop on your road trip, just 25 minutes driving from Brive-Souillac Airport, is the incredible town of Collonges-la-Rouge.

French speakers will have an idea from the name, this town is made of largely red sandstone and limestone thanks to the region’s high iron oxide content, and boasts an extraordinary number of châteaux and flamboyant gothic buildings, giving it the nickname, the town of 25 towers.

You can walk around the streets and wonder at the colourful mediaeval buildings, including the Château de Vassinhac which is now a very authentic and unique guesthouse, but still open to visitors during the day, and the Mermaid House, now a small museum, named after the mermaid statue in the doorway.

The village may be small but you can still find a number of authentic French restaurants and bistros, for a morning coffee or midday lunch before heading on to your next stop.

Tours de Merle

The furthest point East on our Dordogne road trip, and a stop we simply couldn’t ignore, is Tours de Merle. Named after the impressive castle that was built on a hilltop jutting out of the gorge between the 12th and 15th centuries, Tours de Merle was once a thriving feudal village and is now a historic town that welcomes visitors from all over the world.

Visit the historic houses, the ruined castle and the village museum to discover the long history of the small town either on a self-guided tour, or book a guided tour to enhance your experience. Then jump back in the car and take the D13 for around an hour Southwest to Bretenoux.

Castelnau-Bretenoux Castle

Finish the first day of your trip to the Dordogne at the magnificent Castelnau-Bretenoux Castle; the 12th-century castle stood strong through the feudal disputes of the Middle Ages, with towers, residences and gates added to the structure to resist attacks from all sides.

After changing hands, the castle then became a luxurious home in the 16th century, before being damaged in the French Revolution and suffering further from a devastating fire in the 1850s.

Today, the castle is owned and managed by the state, at the behest of its last owner, French opera singer Jean Mouliérat, who asked for its decoration to remain the same after he spent the end of his life repairing and restoring the impressive building.

You can see the splendid castle standing out on the landscape as you approach as well as see the impressive interior for a modest fee.

For your first night in the Dordogne, you can head back to the nearby town of Bretenoux to find a small collection of restaurants and just drive along the riverside to find some lovely campsites – some of which have gites, bungalows and tents to rent in case you didn’t bring your own.

The Dordogne Valley is one of the best places in France to go star-gazing due to the few cities and minimal light pollution, so before you head to bed, make sure to take a look and get a panoramic view of the night sky and count the shooting stars.

Day 2 – Caves and Medieval Villages

Your second day in the Dordogne takes place in the northern Lot department, exploring the mighty caves and gorgeous villages of the Dordogne River.

A short drive along the Dordogne River will take you to the charming medieval town of Carennac – another of France’s Most Beautiful Villages. This small village will take you on a journey back through time as its medieval origins are proudly still on display through its old stone houses and religious buildings.

As you walk around the village after your morning coffee and croissant, stop by the 12th-century Saint-Pierre church with its ornate entrance, peaceful cloister and legendary sculpture “Entombment”.

You can also see the impressive Château des Doyens overlooking the Dordogne River, which now houses the Museum of Art and History of the Dordogne Valley, so you can learn a little about the area while you’re there.

Next, drive for 10 to 15 minutes South to see one of France’s top attractions.

Gouffre de Padirac

Le Gouffre de Padirac, or Padirac Cave, is a 103-metre-deep cave in Padirac that you can visit and take a boat ride on the underground river!

Either by stairs or taking the lift, you can descend into the cave and marvel at the enormous stalactites that reach down from the cave ceilings as you pass through the different chambers on the river, reaching the extraordinary Salle du Grand Dôme, named such because of its whopping 94 metre-tall ceiling!

The cave itself is around 13°C, so make sure you bring a jacket with you even if you’re in the height of summer, and it’s a good idea to book in advance in July and August to ensure you get the chance to see this wondrous place.

Drive on for another 20 to 25 minutes to reach one of the Dordogne’s most famous towns.

Any Dordogne itinerary that missed out Rocamadour would be amiss, however, if you’re limited on time and have only 3 days in Dordogne, you should leave a whole day to spend in Rocamadour as there’s plenty to see and do.

This cliffside town is iconic to the Dordogne Valley and a hotspot for tourists and pilgrims alike due to its unique layout and fantastic vistas. Walk or take the Petit Train around the town and stop by the religious complex known as la Cité Sainte de Rocamadour, with its chapel built onto the rocky cliff edge and providing the destination for many pilgrimages for over a thousand years.

The Chapelle Notre Dame has a 12th-century black Madonna statue which pilgrims pray to in search of miracles, and non-believers and historians still find themselves in awe of the incredible artwork.

Behind the chapel lies Rocamadour Castle, built to protect the pilgrim site in the 1300s and in good shape today, ready to welcome tourists to discover the history of the village and enjoy a spectacular panorama for a small fee.

As you walk around the town, you may notice some large birds of prey flying above; head to the Rocher des Aigles for an up-close look at the bird displays, or simply position yourself high up in the village to see all kinds of eagles, vultures, owls, macaws and many more bird species take flight.

If you haven’t had your fix of ancient history yet, head over to Rocamadour’s Grotte des Merveilles, a 22,000-year-old cave filled with stalactites and original palaeolithic paintings of equine animals in amazing condition.

Lacave Caves

Although you can happily spend a whole day in Rocamadour, you can’t come to this part of the Dordogne Valley without taking a quick trip to the caves of Lacave. You’ll also end your day closer to the campsites on the banks of the Dordogne River.

Clearly named after its top attraction, Lacave has an enormous cave that is well worth a visit. Either on foot (bring comfortable, closed-toe shoes) or with the small electric train, you can take an hour and 20 minute-guided tour of around 1 km or the 4 km long tunnels running underground and learn of the 150 million years of history that created this amazing maze of caves.

Like all caves in France, flash photography is prohibited, but you can take non-flash photos to remember the amazing caves.

Day 3 – Adventuring on the Dordogne River

You can’t visit the Dordogne without taking a boat out along the river. Head to Souillac (or anywhere on the Dordogne River) and rent a kayak or canoe for the whole day or just a morning or afternoon, and spend the rest of your day in the town of Souillac.

Canoeing or Kayaking

The banks of the Dordogne River are beautifully green and dotted with glorious châteaux and mediaeval villages that make boat trips down the river some of the most idyllic.

Whichever company you start at, you’ll be taken via a free shuttle bus down the river where you can then start your journey back and arrive back at the boat rental company. This can be booked in advance here.

The river is mostly flat and calm, with small islands causing the current to flow faster, but no rapids or dangerous areas, making it a perfect place for first-time kayakers or families to enjoy a day out. There are also many small beaches where you can stop and enjoy a picnic or pick up a Croque Monsieur at a small riverside cafeteria before continuing your journey.

Along the journey you’ll be able to spot herons and kingfishers, and if you’re lucky, some salmon and eels migrating upstream.

If you’ve been out for the day on your kayak, Souillac is the perfect place to return to as it’s a pleasant small town with many restaurants and campsites.

Souillac also has an impressive 1,000-year-old abbey worth visiting as you amble around the small town looking for somewhere to eat, such as Le Quercy de Souillac, a small French restaurant serving fresh local produce for a reasonable price.

However, Souillac also offers more to visitors than you may imagine, with its large market on Friday and Sunday mornings from 8.30 am to 1.30 pm, drawing locals and visitors from many nearby villages, as well as its yearly jazz festival.

Souillac en Jazz lasts for a few days in the middle of July each year and sees a range of jazz artists play open-air concerts in the town, which you can buy tickets for online, or be lucky enough to overhear as you sit in a nearby brasserie.

Day 4 – Discovering Dordogne Towns

As you reach the border of the Dordogne department and enter 4 days in Dordogne, you’ll discover the small towns that make the Dordogne Valley so famous.

The Dordogne Valley is home to many historic towns, and none shows off its identity more proudly than Gourdon. With beautiful mediaeval stone houses with wooden doors in winding pathways, as you walk the city streets you can’t help but feel as though the town has looked the same for the past 500 years – and you wouldn’t be wrong.

At the beginning of August, you’ll come across a fantastic mediaeval festival taking place in the town, with many locals donning old-fashioned garb to bring the streets alive as they would have been hundreds of years ago.

These festivals also bring arts and crafts stalls as well as other local and traditional products for sale for visitors to peruse, not to mention the battles that take place in the squares, displaying traditional weaponry and fighting techniques to onlookers.

The historic town of Gourdon, or Bastide, surrounds a church on the hilltop and has its original city planning that defended the town from attack through the 12th to 15th centuries, so you can walk up the winding streets to the church to obtain amazing views over the town and surrounding area.

Gourdon’s market also takes place each Saturday morning from 7.30 am to 12.30 pm, so you can grab some fresh fruits, cheeses (try the local Rocamadour cheese for a real treat) and breads for a picnic, or just admire the local handicrafts.

A 25-minute drive through the countryside will take you back to the Dordogne River where you can find the beautiful town of Domme. Founded in the 13th century, Domme is another bastide town, formed due to its strategic location on a hilltop, with the Dordogne River to the North for protection.

It’s a perfect town to wander around on foot, or experience from the Petit Train accompanied by an audio guide, as the pale-stone buildings create a wonderful aesthetic, especially with the classic French hanging baskets filled with small flowers to brighten up the bridges, streets and windows.

You can enter the town through the ancient town gates, La Porte des Tours, which served as a prison during the Hundred Years’ War which ravaged many towns in the Dordogne area during the 14th and 15th centuries.

Prisoners of the Knights Templar engraved strange symbols and markings into these walls which you can still see today; pick up a brochure from the Tourist Office to see how they’ve interpreted the symbols.

Domme is also famous for its walking trails that take you around the clifftop for stunning views over the river and countryside as well as a peaceful exploration of the local flora and fauna.

Head to Place des Halles, the old marketplace to find a restaurant for lunch before heading off to the nearby town of La Roque-Gageac – or if you still have time, learn about the traditional way of life in Domme and the Périgord area in the Oustal du Périgord Museum, located in the central square, near the entrance to Domme’s caves.

La Roque-Gageac

Just 10 minutes driving from Domme is one of the most picturesque villages on the Dordogne River: La Roque-Gageac. This small village sits on the riverside, backed by an enormous rock, giving the village a wonderful aesthetic. It’s a great place to explore on foot and find small traditional shops selling local handicrafts and produce such as walnuts, goat’s cheeses and foie gras.

Built into the cliffside is an old fort, the remains of which you can admire from below or visit via a long set of stairs, while set a little back from the riverside is the marvellous Château de la Malartrie, a 19th-century mansion built in the Renaissance style.

Explore the incredible exotic gardens of the village, complete with palm trees, bamboo and banana trees, creating a tropical jungle atmosphere in this small mediaeval village.

If you’re in La Roque-Gageac for lunch or dinner, look no further for restaurants than Fat Pig; this local restaurant showcases the best of the local produce for a reasonable price (especially with the set menus), with fantastic views from the large terrace overlooking the Dordogne River. If you want one special night on your trip to Dordogne, it should be here.

The Marqueyssac Gardens

Just a 5-minute drive from La Roque-Gageac is the final stop on day 4 of your Dordogne itinerary, the splendid gardens and château of Marqueyssac.

With 6 km of paths leading through the ornately designed and curiously shaped gardens, the Jardins de Marqueyssac are a peaceful adventure for most, although can be an exciting one for others with many activities to take part in on offer in the gardens too.

From getting-to-know-nature workshops to corn mazes, there’s plenty to do for people of all ages, not to mention the Candlelit Nights every Thursday from 7 pm to midnight in July and August.

On these Candlelit Nights, visitors can wander the gardens, lit up by 2000 candles leading visitors through the gardens to the nearby waterfall with views back over the Dordogne and La Roque-Gageac.

Not only does the candlelight create playful shadows and intriguing shapes in the gardens, but there are four musical performances to be found at various locations around the gardens, as well as candle-making workshops for the children, and fairies on stilts wandering around the gardens.

Tickets are only available online, so make sure you get yours in advance; if you’re visiting the Dordogne in Summer, be sure to check out this magical setting.

Day 5 – Sarlat to Lascaux

As you arrive at your final day in the Dordogne, you can’t miss out on the small yet mighty village of Sarlat, nor the most incredible prehistoric site in France.

Sarlat-la-Canéda

Like many villages in the Dordogne, Sarlat-la-Canéda, also known simply as Sarlat, is a small mediaeval village that proudly displays its heritage from street to street, making it a wonderful place to discover on foot.

But unlike the others, Sarlat actually has the highest number of historical buildings in one area than anywhere in France! Plus, thanks to the village being restored in the 1960s, you feel as though you’ve been transported back in time.

You’ll be forgiven for bursting into song as you walk the streets surrounded by old stone buildings, as Sarlat has been the setting of many mediaeval films, including the 1982 French adaptation of Les Misérables!

The one curio that stands out against the mediaeval backdrop of the town, however, is the unbelievably large black doors that welcome you into Sarlat’s legendary St Mary’s Church, which now holds the food hall.

You can explore the local gastronomy through numerous food festivals in Sarlat in Spring and Autumn, although through Summer the streets are filled with theatrical and cultural displays to entice visitors.

Wednesday mornings and all-day Saturday you can find Sarlat’s market, offering the region’s best honey, chestnuts, mushrooms, truffles, duck and foie gras – just some of the Dordogne’s specialities. It is possible to arrange a gourmet tour here.

Head North for 20 minutes on the D704 to reach one of Dordogne’s (and France’s) most spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Sites – the prehistoric caves of Lascaux!

Although visitors have been unable to visit the original cave discovered by four school boys and their dog in the 1940s since 1963 due to fears of the cave paintings deteriorating, historians, artists and archaeologists expertly recreated the caves and their paintings using the same materials and techniques as the original, thus Lascaux 4 was born.

There is no indication that you’re visiting a replica – a testament to the incredible talent of those who copied the original – as you descend into the cave and your eyes widen at the thousands of images painted on the cave walls displaying the historic fauna of the area some 17,000 years ago.

Affectionately nicknamed the Sistine Chapel of Prehistory, the cave walls have over 900 animals on display, from deer and bulls to ibex and cows, and one bird-headed person, each in remarkable form and vibrant colours given the materials and knowledge of prehistoric man.

These cave paintings are some of the best examples of Upper Palaeolithic art, and some of the best preserved, so you can’t miss out on a trip to Lascaux 4 during 5 days in Dordogne.

The cave is rather narrow so people with severe claustrophobia may wish to skip the cave itself and head on to the on-site museum and gift shop where you can still learn a great deal about the history of the area, but everyone else is highly recommended to visit the cave to appreciate the artistic skill and interest of our ancestors.

The Gardens of Eyrignac Manor

For those visiting the Dordogne in Summer – which comes highly recommended due to the excellent weather as well as the many activities that take place through July and August – you can’t miss out on an evening in the Jardins d’Eyrignac.

Every Monday night over Summer, the proprietors of Eyrignac Manor open its gardens for a fantastic White Picnic. This family-friendly evening sees white blankets placed all over the gardens for visitors – wearing only white – to sit and enjoy a picnic with the sunset, followed by music, dance and fireworks.

Each ticket includes a visit to the gardens, so get there before sunset to explore the wonderful horticulture before relaxing for the evening with your own picnic, or one you’ve bought on-site, and a drink from the cocktail bar. Dogs are allowed for ordinary visits to the gardens but are unfortunately not permitted during the picnics due to the number of visitors and abundance of food.

It’s also a popular event, so to guarantee entry, book your ticket in advance and have a spectacular final night of your Dordogne Valley road trip!

Where to Stay in the Dordogne Valley

Hostellerie de la Bouriane – Located in the town of Gourdon, this 3-star hotel is perfect for those looking for a tranquil escape while visiting the Dordogne Valley. They have a number of lovely rooms to choose from along with other amenities for guests to enjoy.

Le Relais des galets – This 3-star hotel located in the town of Domme is another wonderful option when visiting the Dordogne Valley. They have a number of great rooms to choose from along with a fantastic location outside of Domme.

Le Manoir – This country bed and breakfast just 5 kilometres outside of the town of Souillac is an excellent option in the Dordogne area. There are a number of great rooms to choose from along with a fab breakfast available and an on-site swimming pool.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse more Dordogne hotels!

If you want a city break, the Dordogne Valley is not for you. But if you’re interested in relaxing in the French countryside and indulging in local gastronomy as well as exploring ancient historical sites, you absolutely have to spend 4 to 5 days in Dordogne.

Are you visiting the Dordogne region? Have any questions about this itinerary? Let us know in the comments!

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About Brittany Scott-Gunfield

Brittany is a writer for The World Was Here First. Originally from Colchester, England, she is slowly but surely travelling the world as a digital nomad. She loves to hike around different landscapes and has a deep love for travelling around France (and elsewhere in Europe).

This looks like an interesting tour. What beautiful, strange gardens

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The Dordogne in 4 days: The perfect Guide for everyone

Visiting the Dordogne? It's a very good idea ! How to organize an unforgettable stay, making the most of the riches that this department like no other can offer you? Not easy, because a multitude of possibilities are available to you! We have organized a tour guide in 4 days, starting from 3 strategic and safe points of the department: Périgueux, Bergerac or Sarlat. Choose a drop-off point, pack your bags and read our article to explore and visit the best sites of Périgord, the most beautiful villages of the Dordogne!

4 days in Dordogne from Périgueux

Changing your accommodation every day is not always the best way to make the most of it, so settle in for 4 days in Périgueux and discover the wonders that surround the capital of Périgord Blanc.

Day 1: Visit of Périgueux and its surroundings

For your first day, get to know the historic city center of Périgueux . It is a beautiful city, which deserves to be discovered and no need to take the car: the historic center can be visited on foot ! Walk the small alleys , go to the market , discover the small shops and charming restaurants of this beautiful city. On the banks of the Isle river, Périgueux is a little gem. You can, for example, visit the Cathedral and even its roofs (make sure you book in advance). You can also stroll in its green spaces , on the Gallo-Roman route (fr) and why not visit the Vesunna Museum ? Unless you prefer to take a bike or walk on the green lane of the banks of the Isle?

Day 2: Discovering the Venice of Périgord Vert: Brantôme

Brantôme is a very pretty village on the banks of the Dronne river, a must-see. Surrounded gracefully by the waves, it is even nicknamed the Green Venice . Brantôme is not far from Périgueux, there are good restaurants, charming barge rides and the discovery of the city's heritage : the troglodyte shelters of the Abbey  or Bimbillou Parc , the troglodyte world of the Dronne, which means "to go everywhere and nowhere". This historic site offers a guided tour of life in the past. Brantôme is also a city of craftsmen , enter their stalls to immerse yourself in their know-how and why not treat yourself to a beautiful piece of jewelry or a handmade object?

Not far from Brantôme, for the end of the day or the afternoon, you can go explore Bourdeilles , another pretty village where the Château de Bourdeilles is located, a tourist site where you will be told about 2 castles. You can also go and explore Saint-Jean-de-Côle , to stroll and enjoy the scenery. A little further on are Villars and the very beautiful caves with concretion of the village , which will be an interesting introduction to the beauties hidden under the soil of Périgord... Not far, another Castle, that of Puyguilhem (fr). To find hikes , contact the Périgord Dronne Belle Tourist Office , which has more than one trick up its sleeve!

Brantôme, the Dronne and its Abbey

Bourdeilles and its Castles

Day 3: Périgord Vert and the Regional Natural Park of Périgord Limousin

Yes, one day will not be enough to enjoy the Périgord Vert , but it is a taste of a future trip perhaps? Nature lovers love to go hiking in this lush green territory where daring walks can be organized. To prepare your getaways, trust the Périgord Nontronnais Tourist Office . Waterfalls , forests , fertile plains , this is nature in all its splendor. Pass by Nontron to visit the town where Nontron's famous knives are made. If it's the hot season, go cool off at the beautiful Saint-Saud-Lacoussière pond and if you like to play sports, take a ride on the only Vélorail du Périgord (fr)!

The Périgord Vert Vélorail and the Auvézère Valley

Day 4: L'Isle Valley

L'Isle is a large river which waters a multitude of villages. Why not take a canoe trip or rent an electric boat (in Neuvic)? There are also barges rides at the Moulin de Duellas (fr), it's picturesque! Start the day with Saint-Astier , a large, pleasant village where it is good to wander on the banks of the river. Go to Neuvic , visit its castle and botanical park . There is also Mussidan , a town of pilgrims on the Vézelay route and to discover it by walking, a 5km circuit offered by the town. Contact the L'Isle Valley Tourist Office to find activities that appeal to you!

Other ideas: Explore the surroundings close to Périgueux . For example in Boulazac, the Aero Club organizes tourist flights by small plane or glider (thrills guaranteed!!). Show lovers will be able to watch the programming of the large hall of the Palio , which also hosts the matches of the Boulazac basket Dordogne club . Take a walk in the trees at Cornille Aventure Parc or visit the intimate chateau of Château l'Évêque .

4 days in Dordogne from Bergerac

Come and spend a holiday in the Dordogne based in the largest town in the Périgord Pourpre : Bergerac . This is where wine lovers should stop off, to learn all about Bergerac Duras wines. In the region, we have no less than 10 appellations! Monbazillac , Pécharmant , Montravel ... and many others! Come and discover them, do wine tourism and visit the surroundings of the town of Cyrano .

Day 1: Discovery of Bergerac and its surroundings

You have to start your stay with a visit to Quai Cyrano , it is a good starting point because there is the Tourist Office and the Maison des Vins de Bergerac Duras in one place. You are not far from the Gabarres de Bergerac , take a ride on the waters of the Dordogne! Take a stroll in Bergerac , it is a pretty town with very beautiful half-timbered buildings , narrow streets with a medieval feel, charming squares and a lot of very nice shops and restaurants. In the afternoon, meet wine growers and winegrowers , visit châteaux , indulge yourself and explore the Wine Route . You will see sublime landscapes (at the end of the day, with the low sun, it is exquisite) and will have the possibility of buying wine at producer prices! Remember to have it delivered when possible so as not to clutter your car! Click to see our selection of producers. A great unmissable will be the Château de Monbazillac !

Bonus for the day, make the children happy and take a trip to the Miniature Port of Bergerac , to be the captain of an incredible and real tiny boat , a meticulous reproduction of a liner, ferry, trawler or barge!

Are the children older and athletic? Go see Nicolas and take an electric scooter ride through the vineyards or on a quad bike with Les Randos de Nico (fr).

Walk in Bergerac

Miniature Port and vineyard walk with Les Randos de Nico

Day 2: Go up the Dordogne

For this second day, I suggest you go up the Dordogne. Go to Creysse (nice fish market on Sundays), a few steps a little further on there is a parking lot at the edge of the EDF station (which can be visited) and the Tuillières dam, bike enthusiasts can catch the green route of Bergerac and return to town by this very pleasant car-free route, arranged from villages to town. We set off again along the Dordogne , en route, then stop at the educational site of the Moulin de la Rouzique in Couze-et-Saint-Front, where you will learn all about the manufacture of paper pulp , a once flourishing industry in the Department. You arrive in Lalinde , a nice country house. Nearby is the smallest (unfinished) bastide in Périgord: Molières (fr)! Continuing on (and therefore moving away from the Dordogne) you arrive in Cadouin , a small village which houses a beautiful abbey and a cloister that lovers of religious buildings will be happy to visit, to learn about the legend of the Shroud of Cadouin (fr)... Going up towards the Buisson-de-Cadouin to take the course of the Dordogne, you can visit the pretty Caves of Maxange. But also the Planbuisson bamboo garden , which has many herbaceous surprises in store for you.

Day 3: We get up early and we visit quaint bastides and villages

On the third day, I suggest you continue the discoveries of the day before. Leave early in the morning , visit the first royal English country house , Beaumont-du-Perigord (market on Tuesdays and Saturdays) and admire the very beautiful Saint-Front church. Just enough to have breakfast, a coffee and on the way to the superb bastide of Monpazier which is the best preserved in Périgord, it is incredible! In summer, lively on all sides, it is a lively place. Further south, climb towards Biron … Visit the pretty village and above all, the Château de Biron (fr)! It is one of the four baronies of Périgord, a real panorama on the Lot-et-Garonne plateau just opposite. If you still have time, go to Villefranche du Périgord , further east, another charming bastide to discover, perhaps for a pleasant dinner?

Alternative route: When you are in Beaumont or Monpazier, you can go straight east and reach Belvès , which is one of the most beautiful villages in France , a very pretty medieval jewel perched on the ground . There are some surprising troglodyte dwellings to visit there, but also a stone's throw away, the Belvès spinning mill which will teach you all about wool and all the things to do with it: carding, dyeing, knitting or felt it.

Day 4: We relax!

For this last day, I suggest you take a lighter circuit and discover the beauties around Bergerac. Let's start with the cute village of Pomport , which is surrounded by vineyards, continue towards Sigoulès which will charm you with its small heritage and continuing towards Lot-et-Garonne, the pretty bastide of Eymet awaits you.

You could also set off in the direction of Issigeac , which is not far from the Château de Lanquais (fr) and the Château de Bridoire , the castle of games!

4 days in Dordogne from Sarlat

Ahhh Sarlat ! The capital of gastronomy in Périgord , the heart of Périgord noir , the landmark for heritage lovers! You will not be bored, you could even stay 1 or 2 weeks, come back every year that you have not finished touring the Périgord Noir . Some vacationers, by dint of coming back, we end up buying a business or coming to live here!

Day 1: Discovery of the Medieval City of Sarlat

Are you probably going to arrive on a Saturday? So do not move and take the basket with provisions , it is the day of the inevitable market of Sarlat . It is strewn with colors, bursting with flavors, dense with temptations... It is a very beautiful market, which is held in the city center (leave the car far...) and which takes place throughout the pedestrian heart of the medieval city . The other days, there are many shops, boutiques, artisans, stores to discover. All winter, there is also the Truffle Market and in January, the famous Truffle Festival and the Truffle and Foie-Gras Academy.

Would you like to know more about the history of the city and visit a bourgeois house ? Meet at the Manoir de Gisson , right in the center.

Unusual! To discover Sarlat, take the elevator! It is hidden in the Sainte-Marie church and designed by Jean Nouvel, the panoramic elevator of Sarlat is a must-do. For more information, contact the Sarlat Tourisme Tourist Office.

Sarlat, the beautiful medieval city

Day 2: On the way to the Dordogne Valley

Today, it's serious, we go to a magical place, just a few minutes from Sarlat: the majestic Dordogne Valley . Several choices are available to you.

You will arrive towards Vézac and from there, you can go west to discover the beautiful hilltop village of Beynac , its castle and its picturesque houses, its breathtaking view . And why not take a hot-air balloon or canoe-kayak ride ? You can then continue to Saint-Vincent-de-Cosse and the port of Enveaux , a more intimate destination. A stone's throw away, there is the Museum of the Rue du Temps qui passe , a journey through time, coupled with a beautiful family story. You can then return by passing towards Saint-Cyprien , which is a beautiful little town (nice market on Sundays) with a curious metal bridge that will remind you of the Eiffel style.

The good idea: Spend a few days in a charming hotel in the Périgord Noir . The Dordogne Valley is yours to explore from Saint-Cyprien, an ideal destination for exploring the region's most beautiful villages and sites. The 18th-century Hôtel l'Abbaye has a swimming pool and welcomes you to one of its 13 luxurious rooms, including 2 suites.

Canoe in Beynac! The view from the heights of the village

Second route, when you arrive in Vézac, go east and go to the village of Roque Gageac , there too, you can canoe , but not only! There are the famous barge rides which will bring you a magnificent view of this corner of the valley from the Dordogne, like the traders of the time. Hot air ballooning is also an option! After having tasted the pleasures of water and the beauty of this cliff-side village, go to the bastide of Domme , a few kilometers further on, on the other side of the water. At 150m high, it's an incomparable belvedere over the Dordogne valley , from the village esplanade, it's breathtaking! Visit the caves under the Tourist Office, stroll through the alleys and discover the shops , producers, artisans... Eat an ice cream while admiring the view, and taste the amazing Vin de Domme !

La Roque Gageac, on the cliff side

Third possibility, still in Vézac when arriving from Sarlat, go straight ahead . You can walk to the Marqueyssac gardens are remarkable, with beautiful views and spaces adorned with French boxwood. Continuing, cross the bridge and looking up, you will see the Chateau de Castelnaud-la-Chapelle , a real fortified castle that children love. A charming visit can be found a few kilometers away, that of the Château des Milandes , the home of Josephine Baker and her family, where the visit of the gardens is refreshing, followed by a superb spectacle of raptors and then the moving visit of the castle, in the privacy of the journalist. If you like local products , I invite you to discover the Ecomusée de la Noix next door, where you will learn all about the small sacred fruit of the Dordogne. The more sporty can rent a bike and enjoy the great (it's my favorite in the department!) Greenway of Céou which will take you to charming villages (Saint-Cybranet, Daglan, Saint-Ponpon) through fields of drown , and along the Céou river.

The Château de Castelnaud and the Véloroute du Céou

The making of walnut oil at the Ecomusée de la Noix and the Château des Milandes

Day 3: The Vézère Valley

Will we have enough of a day? No, not at all, we will have to choose and come back! To organize your stay in the Vallée de l'Homme, I recommend that you contact the Lascaux Dordogne Vallée Vézère Tourist Office !

Going up towards the Vézère Valley , you have the pretty slate village of Saint-Geniès (Sunday morning market), then Coly-Saint-Amand , one of the most beautiful villages in France with a very beautiful Abbey . Then it is Montignac Lascaux and the famous Caves of Lascaux and the International Center of cave art . A fairly unmissable visit to our department, which will appeal to the whole family. Don't forget to discover Montignac, a town crossed by the Vézère, with pleasant restaurants by the water (market on Wednesdays and small market on Saturdays). We then continue to Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère , another of the most beautiful villages in France, which is nestled in a bend in the Vézère. It's charming, there are many artisans, restaurants, a superb Romanesque church… Don't miss the nearby Côte de Jor viewpoint, a 180-degree view over the entire valley. And also to take a tour on the Vézère in a Canoe (the most fun and beauty / time ratio route goes from Saint-Léon to Tursac, in 3 hours you can make the most of it!) All around Saint-Léon, tourist sites, such as Le Thot (fr), Le Conquil , La Roque Saint-Christophe in Peyzac le Moustier, but also Le Village de la Madeleine , La Maison Forte de Reignac , the Château de Marzac ... We then arrive at the village of Eyzies , the real capital of Prehistory in Périgord Noir. There are so many tourist sites nearby… The Prehistory Interpretation Center, the National Museum of Prehistory, the Cro-Magnon shelter , the Laugerie Basse shelters , the Grand Roc Cave , The Sorcerer's Cave , the Grotte du Roc de Cazelle (fr) and so many others that I have no more room!

The Roque Saint-Christophe

Day 4: The Dordogne Valley, towards the Lot

A little sport for this last day? Get on the bike (you can also do this by car) and take a ride on the Sarlat greenway . It climbs a bit on some passages, but the surface is of excellent quality and the environment is cool and pleasant. It is built on an old railway line and sometimes we go through long tunnels, the children scream with joy (and make tchoutchou…)! What to see on the way and around?

In Carsac-Aillac , you can canoe on the Dordogne . I also recommend a visit to the superb water gardens of Carsac Aillac , it is really picturesque, we discover ponds, organized on a beautiful set of terraces, with small bridges, walkways, a multitude of plants and many sure, water plants. There is also the Reserve Zoologique de Calviac in Calviac-en-Périgord , which is a conservatory of certain species, especially small monkeys.

In nearby Sainte-Mondane, there is the Château de Fénelon to discover, it is open all year round (fr)! If we continue, we go towards Carlux , a pretty hilltop village with the remains of a castle to discover (free of charge). I recommend the Jardins de Cadiot next to Carlux, which are maintained with the principles of permaculture and especially with a lot of love!

Alternative route: Not far from the start of the cycle path, there is Monfort , its Castle and its superb cingle to observe (a loop in the river).

The Calviac Zoological Reserve and the Château de Monfort

Here we are at the end of our escapades , all these proposals are of course not exhaustive, they are the essentials to discover over 4 days in our beautiful department. It is possible to survey the whole Dordogne in 4 days, but tiring because we have a large department. Sectorize as I suggested, will allow you to enjoy a region, while having good ideas for a future stay?

To make the best use of our Guide to Périgord , I recommend that you discover the “Around me” option . Enter the location of your choice or let yourself be geolocated and browse the menus to find tourist sites , restaurants , accommodation , activities to do and events on the agenda .

I wish you an excellent stay in Périgord. Remember to join the Facebook page of the Guide du Périgord for wonderful photos and articles regularly. We also have a very nice Instagram page @guideduperigord . Visit our BLOG to read all the articles, sorted by “desires”!

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Road Trip Dordogne-Périgord Noir – Map & Itinerary

Article written by Elisa - Travel Writer & Local in France This article may contain compensated links. Please read disclaimer for more info.

The Ultimate Dordogne Itinerary to Explore Dordogne-Périgord Noir

In southwest France, the Dordogne Valley is a fantastic area to explore by car. The Dordogne – Périgord Noir was for us a real love at first sight for the richness of natural sites, its history, and culture, and we are sure it will steal your heart too!

This 5-day Dordogne road trip from Montignac to Sarlat-la-Canéda explores the great sites of Dordogne-Périgord Noir , Dordogne’s most touristy part. From the Vézère Valley to the Dordogne Valley, this Dordogne route will allow you a few days to unwind and enjoy good food, wine, and a slower pace of life.

Read on for the description of this Dordogne itinerary which comes with a Dordogne map with all the stops.

This road trip Dordogne-Périgord Noir is one of the most beautiful road trips in France . Read more about road-tripping in France:

Dordogne Road Trip Overview

• Start:  Saint-Amand-de-Coly (or Brive-la-Gaillarde if you arrive in Dordogne by train)
• Finish:  Sarlat-la-Canéda
• Duration:  5 days
• Suggested Route:  Montignac – Vézère Valley – Sarlat-la-Canéda – Dordogne Valley
• Total distance:  208 km, 3 hours 15 minutes drive in total
• Regions covered:  Nouvelle-Aquitaine
• Best for:  châteaux, medieval towns, prehistoric sites, food, and wine.

You can also extend this Dordogne itinerary by adding more villages and châteaux. Check out the list of  best Castles in Dordogne  for inspiration.

If you fly to  Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG) , you can pick up your rental car at the airport and start this road trip Périgord Noir from there. The drive from CDG Airport to Saint-Amand-de-Coly takes 5 hours 15 minutes (533 km) –  Click here to rent a car at Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport

Another alternative is to take a direct train from Paris Gare d’Austerlitz to Brive-la-Gaillarde and then pick up your rental car in Brive-la-Gaillarde, at the train station. The journey from Paris to Brive-la-Gaillarde takes 4hr 30 min – Click here to rent your car in Brive-la-Gaillarde

If this is your first trip to France, check out our tips for  hiring a car in France .

Road Trip Dordogne Périgord Noir – Map

Click here to view this Road Trip Dordogne-Périgord Noir Map on Google

About Dordogne – Périgord Noir

If you do not understand the distinction between Dordogne vs. Périgord, don’t worry! Périgord is the name of the historic region, while Dordogne is the name of the current French department, which has almost the same limits. Dordogne is also the name of the river which crosses this department.

While reading about the Périgord, you will also read about colors, which correspond to the four tourist destinations identified in the Périgord /Dordogne department:

• The Périgord Vert: the Green Périgord is the most northerly, a land of meadows, light oaks, and chestnut trees. This is where the Périgord-Limousin Regional Natural Park is located. The main city in the Périgord Vert is Montron .
• The Périgord Blanc: the White Périgord is located below the Périgord Vert, and the main city here is Perigueux . The color white is in reference to its limestone soils.
• The Périgord Noir: the Black Périgord is located in the southeast, around Sarlat-la-Canéda. The color black is in reference to the dark foliage of the many oaks present in this area. The main city in the Périgord Noir is Sarlat-la-Canéda .
• Périgord Pourpre: the Purple Périgord corresponds to southern Dordogne, around Bergerac and its vineyard, with its leaves that turn red in autumn. The main city in the Périgord Pourpre is Bergerac .

How many days in Dordogne? If you focus only on one tourist destination (white, black, green, or purple), allow 5 days to one week. A two-week Dordogne itinerary will allow you to visit the best of each tourist destination.

Road Trip Dordogne – Itinerary 5 Days

Day 0 | arrival.

From Paris Austerlitz, take the train to Brive-la-Gaillarde , where you can pick up your rental car. From Brive, drive to Saint-Amand-de-Coly, where you will spend two nights.

Saint-Amand-de-Coly is located in the heart of the Périgord Noir, a stone’s throw from the Vézère Valley and the Lascaux Caves, and is listed as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in France . The village is dominated by a fortified 12th-century abbey, the most beautiful of its kind in the Périgord.

For your stay in Saint-Amand, book two nights at the Hotellerie de l’Abbaye Saint-Amand . This charming guest house offers well-equipped, spacious rooms with rustic décor, an on-site restaurant, and an outdoor terrace.

Click here to book your stay at Hotellerie de l’Abbaye Saint-Amand

Day 1 | Vézère Valley

Day 1 of this Dordogne road trip starts exploring the Vézère Valley , formed by the river of the same name. This is a place of picturesque villages and lush green landscapes, where we can follow the footsteps of the first men who inhabited the region 20,000 years ago.

The Vézère Valley is home to incredible prehistoric sites: caves, cliffs, and troglodyte villages. Today, you will visit two major ones.

Morning in the Village of La Madeleine

On the road linking Montignac-Lascaux to Eyzies de Tayac, there’s one of Dordogne’s major prehistoric sites. On a pretty bend of the Vézère river, we discover a vestige of the Magdalenian period (-17,000 to -10,000 years ago).

La Madeleine is a troglodyte village located halfway up a cliff. It was built by the men who lived there from Prehistoric times until the end of the 19th century, and it is a vibrant testimony to the lives of our forefathers until today. In fact, this prehistoric period (Magdalenian) borrows its name from the village of La Madeleine.

You can visit this site on your own (there are information panels at the main spots), and there are free guided visits every hour. The Prehistoric archeological site is off-limits, so your visit will focus on the medieval site.

The Village of the Madeleine is an incredible step back in time: the place is lovely, plus it is an excellent introduction to the next stops of this road trip.

Afternoon in La Roque Saint-Christophe

There are other Prehistoric sites in this area; the hard part will be to choose which ones to visit!

On the road back to Montignac-Lascaux, the next stop is the Maison Forte de Reignac , the first château of this road trip and the most unique.

Built on a cliff in the 14th century, this extraordinary ‘château-falaise’ is the only monument of its kind in France to have survived completely intact. This impressive château was home to a local lord and his family, and it is preserved in an exceptional state and entirely furnished with period furniture.

Visit the different rooms and halls – the château is bigger than it looks from the outside! The visit ends with a small museum dedicated to the torture and death penalty in the middle ages.

A few kilometers upstream of the Vézère River, we find the troglodyte fort and village of La Roque Saint Christophe . This site – an impressive limestone wall 1 km long and 80 m high – is truly magnificent for its rare and wild beauty, powerful shape, and fascinating history.

Over the centuries, this natural cavity was constantly eroded by the river and the frost, thus shaping hundreds of rock shelters and long overhead terraces. La Roque Saint-Christophe has been occupied by men since Prehistoric times and was later in the Middle Ages altered to become a fort and a village.

Don’t miss this unique place, inhabited until the start of the Renaissance, where you can still see the remains of some dwellings, a chapel, and some tools and machines used by its inhabitants.

Day 2  | Lascaux

Morning in Lascaux

We left the most important and fascinating site for the end of this “Prehistoric tour.” Discovered completely by chance in 1940 by a couple of kids from the nearby village, the Grottes de Lascaux (Lascaux Caves) was a true masterpiece of cave art that came to light after being protected from all human and animal presence for thousands of years. Here, we can find hundreds of rock paintings dating back 20,000 years!

The current site is a perfect replica of the original, closed to the public to prevent further damage by the crowds. It is called Lascaux IV , being Lascaux II and Lascaux III partial replicas that you can eventually also visit. Don’t miss Lascaux IV’s great guided visit, which starts with an emotional approach to the discovery. Book your tickets WELL in advance!

Afternoon around Montignac

After visiting the Lascaux Caves, this Dordogne itinerary explores the village of Montignac . This pretty medieval village on the Vézère River is well worth an exploration, especially for the attractive balconied houses along the riverfront. There is also a walk up above the town that has splendid views of the town, the river, and the 10th-century ruined fortress.

After your visit, drive to Sarlat-La-Canéda , where you will spend four nights. For a memorable stay in one of France’s most beautiful medieval towns, book at Le Petit Manoir . This gracious historic manor right in the center of Sarlat comes with a garden, a terrace with a pool (yay!), and private parking nearby. There are only a few rooms in this historic gem, all with city views, so book well in advance!

Click here to book your stay at Le Petit Manoir

If you prefer to stay out of the town’s hustle and bustle, book at Le Clos de la Canéda . This wonderful B&B has a swimming pool, free private parking, and gardens. The rooms in this centenary building combine modern décor with traditional materials.

Click here to book your stay at the Clos de la Canéda

Day 3 | Sarlat-La-Canéda

Day 3 of this road trip Dordogne-Périgord Noir explores Sarlat-La-Canéda (Sarlat). You will love Sarlat , one of the most beautiful medieval towns in France . The capital city of the Périgord Noir has the highest concentration of listed historical monuments per m2 in the world (it’s on the Guinness Book of Records!).

Sarlat is also a market town known for its walnuts, foie gras, truffles, and fresh produce. You will find a huge Saturday market on the main square, with producers selling everything from cèpe mushrooms to handcrafts, walnut liquor, and clothing. Try one of the tasting menus at the surrounding restaurants –Sarlat is a food paradise!

Sarlat is a lively city all year round. Summer is the high season in Sarlat, and in wintertime, it hosts one of the most beautiful Christmas Markets in France .

The list of interesting things to visit in Sarlat includes:

• Enjoy the view from the top of the old Church of St. Mary
• Sarlat Market
• Saint-Sacerdos Cathedral
• The Lantern of the Dead

TIP: don’t miss the guided night tour offered by the Tourist Office (3 Rue Tourny, Sarlat-la-Canéda). You can book it directly in the office, ideally a few days in advance.

Day 4 | Dordogne Valley

The Dordogne Valley is a place of old villages, ancient ruins, friendly locals, and bucolic beauty. Visitors to this region enjoy being part of the slow pace of life, exploring lovely Dordogne villages , and tasting the local food.

Morning Canoeing the Dordogne

Day 4 of this Dordogne road trip starts with a second coffee at the village of Domme . Located on the top of a cliff, the views of the Dordogne Valley from Domme’s panoramic belvedere (viewpoint) are spectacular.

Domme was a fortified village, and you can still see the Porte de Tours and some other remains of its ancient walls.

Stroll around the town, walk through its streets, and enjoy its gardens, the mill, and viewpoints. There is also a castle, but it cannot be visited because it is private property.

The next stop of this Dordogne itinerary is the Nautical Base of Cénac , where you will find a canoe waiting for you to explore the Castles of the Dordogne Valley . If, like us, you are a kayak or canoe lover, you cannot miss one of the most beautiful canoe tours in France!

For canoeing the Dordogne, we chose CanoSphère , a small company managed by four friends born and raised in Sarlat. They rent canoes for tourists but not only! CanoSphère finances environmental protection programs by donating part of the cost of the canoe tours in the Dordogne. By booking canoe tours with them (instead of the big players), you also ensure the development of responsible tourism.

CanoSphère offers different itineraries. We chose the most emblematic, the “Descente des Châteaux” itinerary (13km, 3 hrs), which explores La Roque-Gageac, and the castles of Malartrie, Castelnaud, Beynac, Marqueyssac, and Fayrac.

Afternoon in the Villages of the Dordogne Valley

After lunch, explore some of the neighboring villages on foot: La Roque-Gageac – a picturesque village on the cliffside – and its fortress, and the village of Beynac-et-Cazenac .

Beynac-et-Cazenac was my personal favorite village in Dordogne-Périgord Noir. Here, don’t miss the 12th-century Château de Beynac , one of the most authentic and well-preserved fortified castles in Périgord. A visit to the castle transports you back to the Middle Ages and offers unobstructed views of the Dordogne Valley.

Day 5 | Dordogne Valley

The last day of this road trip in Dordogne – Périgord Noir explores some of Dordogne’s most beautiful sites, so get ready for a grand finale!

Morning at Château des Milandes and Château de Castelnaud

Start the day at Château des Milandes , one of the best castles in Dordogne to visit. This 15th-century castle was home to Joséphine Baker and her rainbow tribe. Still today, the château is a tribute to this fascinating woman, who recently entered the Panthéon of Paris as one of France’s Grands Hommes (et Femmes).

Learn about Joséphine Baker’s life and career through some of her personal objects, outfits, and pictures. After visiting the castle, the manicured gardens are small but pleasant for a short stroll.

Next, visit Château de Castelnaud , one of the most picturesque châteaux overlooking the Dordogne’s Valley and Château de Beynac’s eternal rival. This astounding example of fortification was founded in the 12th century and is today considered a jewel of medieval military art.

During the Hundred Years’ War , the lords of Castelnaud chose the English side. But in 1442, after a siege ordered by king Charles VII, the French ultimately took it.

The visit to this château is great for families, with original demonstrations to make history accessible and interesting for all ages.

Afternoon at Jardins de Marqueyssac

One of the top things to do in Dordogne , the Marqueyssac Gardens are sublime! They are part of a real state where you will also find a small castle, a nature pavilion with a dinosaur skeleton,  a via Ferrata course for the more adventurous, and a breathtaking panorama over the Dordogne Valley 130m above the river. Wander around a dreamy landscape with 150,000 pruned boxwood, and sip your favorite drink on their panoramic café-terrace until sunset.

TIP: don’t miss Marqueyssac’s traditional 20,000 candlelight evening on Thursdays!

So, what are you waiting for? Book this road trip Dordogne-Périgord Noir today!

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The Ultimate Guide to Visiting the Dordogne

I fell in love with the Dordogne on my week-long visit last year to France. It’s a region that took me by surprise and enchanted me with historic villages and charming chateau. This guide to visiting The Dordogne is all of my favorites from my trip.

The Dordogne is a region often overlooked by American tourists, perhaps because many consider visiting other regions of France first like Provence or Normandy. But the Dordogne should not be skipped, it’s an incredible place of history, grand landscape, and lots to do. It makes for a wonderful destination after Bordeaux as this is the closest major city.

For me, this region is quintessential France. It has it all and you can easily spend a proper week or so road-tripping the region. With its rich history, natural beauty, and gastronomic treasures, the Dordogne continues to be a celebrated destination that offers a truly immersive French experience.

Why is the Dordogne Famous?

The Dordogne region in France is famous for its captivating blend of prehistoric heritage, medieval charm, and culinary excellence. I know travelers come to explore the renowned Lascaux Caves, stroll through picturesque villages like Sarlat-la-Canéda , and savor the region’s iconic cuisine.

If you’re considering your time in the Dordogne, read on for how to spend your time, where to stay, and more in the Dordogne.

Short on Time? Here Are My Top Picks for the Best Hotels in the Dordogne:

• Le Petit Manoir , for best historic, luxury stay in Sarlat
• Hotel Montaigne , for the best modern stay in Sarlat
• Domaine de Rochebois , for the best luxury countryside retreat

For more on how to make the most of your time, don’t miss my in-depth guide to Sarlat-la-Canéda !

A Guide to the Best Things to Do in the Dordogne

Helpful Travel Tips for Visiting Dordogne France

Getting there.

To reach the Dordogne Valley, you can fly into Bordeaux-Mérignac Airport, which is the closest major airport to the region. From there, you can rent a car and drive east to the picturesque Dordogne Valley. Bordeaux to the Dordogne Valley is approximately a 2 to 2.5-hour drive, depending on your specific destination within the Dordogne region. Having a car is an absolute must for visiting, I always use Discover Cars for the best rates.

Length of Time

I think 5-7 days is the right amount of time for exploring the Dordogne. You can’t do it all in a week but you would get a good sense of the area. It’s quite vast, the third largest area in France, so keep this in mind.

Time of Year

The best time to visit the Dordogne region in France is during the spring and early autumn. April to June and September to October offer pleasant weather with mild temperatures, making it ideal for outdoor activities. These months also tend to be less crowded with tourists compared to the peak summer season. However, if you enjoy warmer weather and don’t mind larger crowds, July and August are also popular months for visiting the Dordogne.

Where to Stay in The Dordogne to Visit

One of the most challenging parts of planning a trip to The Dordogne is finding the right area to stay. When I did all of my research, I landed on the most central location of Sarlat-la-Canéda . The town of Sarlat-la-Canéda is in the heart of the valley and has everything you need. You’re minutes from the river, other picturesque towns, and sights. I’ve also included other incredible accommodations that would be worth considering.

Sarlat-la-Canéda Hotels

• Le Petit Manoir for best historic, luxury stay in the center
• Hotel Plaza Madeleine À Sarlat for a historic stay in the center
• Les Cordeliers for best luxury hotel just outside the city center
• Hotel Montaigne for the best modern stay in Sarlat
• Domaine de Rochebois for the best luxury countryside retreat

Other Notable Hotels to Stay At

• La Vieux Logis , a Relais & Chateux property in Trémolat
• Château de la Treyne along the river (unreal hotel for the pricepoint)
• Hôtel de Bouilhac in Montignac for a design stay
• Chateau de Maraval for a design maison d’hôte in Cénac-et-Saint-Julien
• Châteaux dans Les Arbres for most unique stay
• Le Moulin du Roc   for luxury with Michelin restaurant in Champagnec-de-Belair
• Le Moulin de l’Abbaye for luxury stay with Michelin restaurant in Brantôme

The Best Villages To Visit in The Dordogne

There are dozens of villages to choose from in the Dordogne when it comes to exploring. I’ve pulled together my top three favorites from this list of the best villages in the Dordogne . Many of the villages in this region are designated Les Plus Beaux Villages de France (which translates to “the most beautiful villages of France”).

Domme is a picturesque village nestled atop a hill overlooking the Dordogne River, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. Known for its well-preserved medieval architecture, cobblestone streets, and charming shops, Domme is a must-visit destination for some of the best views over the Dordogne Valley. There are some great restaurants in town and lots of shops on the main street.

Beynac-et-Cazennac

Nestled along the Dordogne River, the village of Beynac-et-Cazenac is just under the Château de Beynac, a medieval fortress that looms above the village. This village is one of my favorites as it’s so petite but offers wonderful views and a step back in time. Do note that there aren’t many services here in terms of restaurants, more of a historic village to stroll.

La Roque-Gageac

This may be one of the most iconic villages on the Dordogne River, as it is built into the side of the cliffs. It’s dramatic, and right near lots of things to do. On the river’s edge, you’ll find several restaurants and shops lining the street. But don’t forget to make the climb up to the quiet village area.

Incredible Things to Do in Dordogne, France

Taste the local cuisine.

One of my favorite parts of time in the Dordogne is the chance to experience cuisine, often referred to as Périgord cuisine. Duck and goose play a central role in many traditional dishes, with specialties like duck confit, foie gras, and magret de canard (duck breast). Truffles, both black and white, are highly prized and used seasonally — keep an eye out for black truffle dishes.

The region is also known for its walnut-based products, you’ll see shops everywhere selling these seasonally. Chestnuts, wild mushrooms, and game meats such as venison and wild boar feature prominently in seasonal dishes. It’s such a foodie paradise and there are many Michelin-starred restaurants and cozy local cafes to stop into.

Visit Historic Castles

Dordogne is most known for its impressive medieval castles like Château de Castelnaud , Château de Beynac , and Château de Hautefort . All of these are wonderful castles to visit while there, and one other picturesque castle to visit is Château des Milandes . This historic château is renowned for its association with Josephine Baker, the famous American-born French dancer, who once owned the property and spent part of her life here. You can explore the château’s elegant interiors and lush gardens. Be sure to arrive early to beat the crowds.

Get Outdoors in the Dordogne

Paddle along the picturesque Dordogne River, taking in the scenic views and passing by charming villages and dramatic cliffs. It’s one of the best things to do and several places offer kayaks for rent along the river. There are many hikes and other places to go cycling as well if you’re looking to get active. This tour starts in Vitr ac and offers guided canoe tours down the river, whereas this kayak rental tour is self-guided.

Explore the Underground Caves and Prehistoric Sites

The Dordogne region is famous for its network of underground caves and grottoes, many of which are home to prehistoric art and stunning geological formations. The UNESCO Heritage Site of Lascaux caves in Montignac is renowned for its Paleolithic cave paintings, often referred to as the “Sistine Chapel of Prehistory.” Located in Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, Font-de-Gaume is one of the last caves in France with original prehistoric paintings that are still open to the public. The cave features intricate drawings dating back over 17,000 years. There are many UNESCO World Heritage Sites across Périgord Noir, so be sure to carve out some time for this.

See the Candlelight Tour of Les Jardins de Marqueyssac

This might be the best thing to do in the Dordogne. While Les Jardins de Marqueyssac is worth a visit any time of the year to see the exquisite gardens, they do have a special experience. In the summer months, the gardens are open late through night and are filled with two thousand little candles to light the paths. It’s so special and well worth booking tickets in advance.

Visit the Famous Sarlat-la-Caneda Farmer’s Market

There is not a better market in France than Sarlat’s farmers market. It draws in so many visitors that the town shuts down for market days — do arrive early! The big market is on Saturday morning though there is a seasonal one on Wednesday as well. You’ll find all of the fresh produce and seasonal cuisine here, a great spot to stock up on souvenirs.

See a Few Museums

Visit museums like the Musée National de Préhistoire in Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil and the Château de Losse to appreciate the region’s cultural heritage. The Musée National de Préhistoire in Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in prehistoric history. Located in the “Capital of Prehistory,” this museum showcases a remarkable collection of artifacts, tools, and artworks from the region’s prehistoric periods.

Take a Day Trip to Rocamadour

If you’re looking for another iconic village in France to visit and doable within a day’s trip, consider Rocamadour in the Lot. It’s one of my favorite villages, somewhere I grew up going. It’s built into the side of the mountain, and so picturesque.

There are so many day trips that can be done for this region. I know people who even go as far as the volcanic mountains of Puy de Sancy and Puy de Dôme, icons of Massif Central.

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PS — Are You Booking a Trip Soon? Use My Booking Checklist!

These are the sites I use most to book my own trips. Using the links below is a great way to support Bon Traveler’s travel journalism at no extra cost to you . If you need help organizing your itinerary, get my free travel itinerary template here .

1. Book Your Flights

Use Skyscanner to find the best flights. It searches 100s of airlines and websites across the globe to ensure you’re not missing out on any route options or deals.

2. Book Your Accommodations

Use Booking.com for hotels and guest houses. They have the biggest inventory and consistently offer the best rates.

3. Book Your Tours & Experiences

Use Viator or Get Your Guide to find the best tours and experiences. They are my favorite tour search engines. I always check both as their inventory varies depending on the destination.

4. Book Your Car

Use Discover Cars or Rentalcars.com to find the best car rental deals. I recommend comparing rental agency reviews on Google to ensure you are booking with the best company in that destination, as the reviews are often more accurate than the car rental search engines.

5. Don’t Forget Airport Lounge Access

Get a Priority Pass membership to gain access to 1,400+ VIP lounges and airport experiences worldwide. The Priority Pass app is the first thing I check when I have a layover. I’ve been a member for over a decade, and having a comfortable place to relax before and between flights makes air travel so much more enjoyable.

6. Don’t Forget Travel Insurance

I never leave the country without travel insurance. It provides comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong (ie. illness, injury, theft, and cancelations, etc.). I use it frequently for my travels to stay protected.

My favorite companies that offer the best coverage and rates are:

• World Nomads (best for all-around)
• Safety Wing (best for frequent travelers)

Xx, Jessica

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Road Trip Itinerary Guide Dordogne – Périgord by Van or Car

I want to tell you about our road trip through the Dordogne – Périgord in a camper van in today’s post. A 7-day Dordogne Valley road trip we loved, and we’re sure you’ll love it too.

France is home to incredible areas, well-preserved medieval villages, and gastronomy that is a World Heritage.

In the Dordogne-Perigord area, we can find cities where, centuries ago, the troglodytes lived. Not to mention, it is a privileged destination to travel by camper van or motorhome with free and paid places to stay overnight.

In this post, you will find our road trip itinerary through the Dordogne-Périgord, and in another post, I will prepare a small practical guide to visiting the Dordogne and some facts that you have to know about the region for your trip. Let’s start!

You’ll like the post of the most beautiful villages of the Dordogne.

Itinerary to Visit the Dordogne – Périgord by van or car

This trip was made in the first week of June 2020. The limit to move around France more than 100 km from your home (we live in France) was allowed.

We made the trip in our camper van, which is perfect for making by car, staying in hotels or going to campsites.

As you can see, for the last two days, we have left places that are “on the way home,” but if you come from another country or by plane, you may have to adapt the itinerary.

7-Day Itinerary Dordogne Valley – Périgord Noir

• Day 1. Domme – Roque Gageac – Marqueyssac Gardens
• Day 2. Castelnaud la Chapelle – Beynac et Cazenac (Castle of Milandes)
• Day 3. Sarlat la Caneda
• Day 4. Puymartin Castle – Limeuil – Cloister de Cadouin
• Day 5. Belvés – Monpazier
• Day 6. Maison Forte de Reignac – La Roque St Christophe – St-Leon-sur-Vézére
• Day 7. Castle and village of Hautefort – St-Jean-de-Côle

La Bastide de Domme

We start the road trip through the Dordogne-Perigord in the *Bastide de Domme, one of the most beautiful villages in the Dordogne and recognized as the “Most beautiful village in France.”

I’ll tell you what “Bastide” is at the end of the post.

Domme was a fortified city of the Périgord; we can reinforce this point by taking a look at its main door, the “Porte de Tours.”

Inside the “Bastide de Domme” you will find very well preserved medieval architecture and inside the Tourist office an entrance to the Grotto of Domme. A jewel of 450 meters with unique treasures.

Stroll through the village, walk through its streets, its gardens, the mill, its viewpoints… Unfortunately, the castle cannot be visited because it is private property.

• Read the post with the most beautiful villages of the Dordogne-Perigord

Roque Gageac

La Roque Gageac is one of the villages that I liked the most about this route; it was declared one of the most beautiful in France.

With its stone houses on the edge of the river, higher old cities carved into the rock, a castle, lots of green, and a fascinating river to take a photo of this place from the water.

Castelnaud la Chapelle

Castelnaud la Chapelle is another of the most beautiful villages in France. You can see how the castle dominates the area from the top of a rock. The village is super picturesque.

The castle was closed due to Covid-19 when we went. So, you can leave your comments at the end of the post with your experience.

Marqueyssac Hanging Gardens

The Hanging Gardens of Marqueyssac, the viewpoint of the Dordogne, a must-see on your road trip through the Périgord.

Marqueyssac Castle Park is a private estate dating back to the 17th century. It has been declared in the French public interest and has been open to the public since 1997.

It is a wonderful place, with possibly the best views of the Dordogne.

I’m going to write you a post dedicated to these gardens because it has a very nice story and I’m sure you’ll like it.

Beynac et Cazenac

The best view of this medieval village is when you’re arriving. The stone houses on the edge of the river and the castle at the top will leave you speechless. This one and the Roque-Gageac are my favorites.

Here, the essential thing is to walk through the village, visit the Castle of Beynac and walk along the Dordogne River in “gabarre.” In addition, there are guided tours in the summer.

If you are in love with castles and their stories, come to the castle of Milandes. The Lord of Castelnaud built it to please his wife in 1489. But it is known worldwide thanks to Josephine Baker.

American by birth, French by marriage, received the Medal of the Legion of Honor in this castle.

She had an exciting life; I leave the castle page with her history (you can read it in English or French) to learn more.

Sarlat la Caneda

I don’t understand how this city wasn’t in our initial planning, but we posted a photo on Instagram of the Roque Gageac, and a follower recommended this place in the comments, and we went.

We were going well on time, because of the Covid-19 there were many closed places that we couldn’t visit. But thanks to that we could visit Sarlat, and the truth is we loved this place.

Sarlat needs a day to tour it, and if you can stay the night, it is recommended . I’m going to write a post dedicated to this city to expand the information.

Sarlat has uncertain origins, there are traces of occupation in the south of the city dating back to the Paleolithic, but tradition says that the city formed from the ninth century around a large Benedictine abbey, which is located at the same distance from Périgueux and Cahors.

Here you have to visit the Episcopal Palace, the Cathedral of Saint-Sacerdos, the Lantern of the Dead, the Présidial, the Town Hall, the Church of Sainte-Marie, and its imposing gates, the Hotel de Gisson.

Let yourself be carried away by its streets and enjoy the history and architecture of this charming city.

Puymartin Castle

The Dordogne-Perigord is full of castles; you have to pay attention because you will find them among forests, around a bend, on top of a rock…

They are full of stories, such as Puymartin Castle, with the famous legend of Dame Blanche (the White Lady)

The castle began to be built in the 13th century, was surrounded by villages, and was on the border between France and England when the 100-year war began in the Périgord.

It was destroyed and ruined throughout the 100-year war. But, it was rebuilt, expanded, rebuilt again in the centuries to come, and we can visit it today.

Over five centuries, it belonged to the same family, although surnames have been changed to marriages.

The legend of the White Lady refers to Thérése de Saint-Clar, who was imprisoned in the castle’s north tower.

History says that in the 16th century, Thérése was surprised by her husband in her lover’s arms when he returned from the war. The jealous husband killed the lover and imprisoned his wife in the tower for 15 years.

Her prison door was clogged, and there was only one slit where she received the food. She dies in her prison, and legend says that at midnight, her ghost wanders the stairs and the castle rooms—the inhabitants of the castle claim to have seen it and some visitors.

Limeuil is part of the most beautiful village in France since 1990 and has not lost its status. The truth, it is super beautiful. Here, the Vézére and the Dordogne River come together, which makes the landscape spectacular.

The most typical of this beautiful village is its panoramic gardens. They are located at the top of the village and have great views.

The city has origins in antiquity; it was one of the cradles of nascent humanity and was also a flourishing city until the end of the nineteenth century, thanks to its port and navigable rivers.

Cloister de Cadouin

In Cadouin, a charming medieval village, you will find the Cadouin Cloister, a Gothic artwork declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Belvés is one of the most beautiful villages in France and is one of the most beautiful in the Dordogne – Perigord. It is an ancient medieval city, which they have managed to preserve to this day.

It is located on top of a rocky promontory, ideal for defending against possible attacks.

The road to visit the village is very well signposted, with signs that explain what you are seeing.

Highlights include the market (Le Halle), the underground troglodyte city, the 14th-century castle, the Belfort Tower, among others.

Bastide de Monpazier

The gridded city of the Middle Ages. This city was founded in 1284 by King Edward I of England (yes, the Perigord was English, but that is the subject of another post) and has remained almost intact to this day.

It is the best-preserved in southwestern France.

The most surprising thing about this town is its perfect grid design. It is essential to reach the main square, tour the porticos with centuries-old arcades, and its market has existed for more than 700 years in the same place, every Thursday morning.

Visit the artisan and local produce shops, and get some gastronomic souvenirs.

Maison Forte de Reignac

An amazing place that is much bigger than it looks. La Maison Forte de Reignac is a cliff castle, preserved in an exceptional and fully furnished state of period.

It is the only monument of its kind in France preserved completely intact.

La Maison Forte de Reignac is declared a historical monument and is a private property open to the public.

It is one of the strangest castles I have ever visited and an essential to understand what life was like in this region.

La Roque St Christophe

La Roque St Christophe is one of the must-see places to visit in the Dordogne-Périgord.

It is a place with thousands of years, where you can see a city – troglodyte fortress and an ancient medieval city, destroyed by the war of religions.

The cliff of Roque St Christophe stretches for one kilometer, bordered by the River Vezere and the road.

This cliff consists of 5 terraces, excavated from its origin by the erosion of the waters for 60 million years and by the action of ice in the glacial periods.

During the twentieth century, excavations were made that brought to light the different periods of occupation of this place since prehistory.

The first traces are from 50,000 years ago, where this cliff gave refuge to probably Neanderthal hunters and 25,000 years later to the man of Cromagnon.

Around 3000 BC, man became sedentary, and the Roque St Christophe is occupied uninterruptedly until the Middle Ages, having the capacity to house 1000 people. In 1588 this place was destroyed, a victim of the Wars of Religion.

St-Leon-sur-Vézere in Dordogne

St-Léon-sur-Vézére is a small, super picturesque village that serves wonderfully prepared food typical from the Dordogne – Perigord.

It has a castle that we could not visit due to Covid-19. It is the castle of Clérans, of the sixteenth century, with a garden full of centuries-old trees; it looks like a fairytale castle.

You have to visit without a doubt the Romanesque church of the 12th century on the banks of the Vézére River. It is listed as a Historical Monument and is the Jewel of Saint Leon.

Hautefort Castle and Village

The Castle of Hautefort is one of the most visited in the Dordogne region. It is a rare example of the classic architecture of Perigord.

Its decorations respect the fashions of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

In the nineteenth century, the Count of Choulot made a design of the gardens in a French style. In addition, he created 30 hectares of an English park overlooking the countryside and the surrounding villages.

In summer, there are highly recommended night tours.

St-Jean-de-Côle

The village, despite its size, has it all: a castle from the fifteenth to seventeenth centuries called the Castle of Marthonie, a Roman-Byzantine church of the twelfth century, a priory of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries that is now a restaurant, and the old bridge of the fifteenth century.

Strolling through its streets in spring is a delight for the senses, as you can enjoy the aromas of its flower-filled streets.

In May, they have a celebration called “Les Floralies” and guided tours with audio guides in Spanish, English, and French.

We couldn’t visit the castle; it was closed by the coronavirus.

*What is a Bastide?

In French, a “Bastide” can be translated as “country house,” but we would not correctly define this type of village.

A bastide is a type of village, an agglomeration designed for commerce, to have the market in the city’s heart.

Several of these markets are still held on the same day as specified in 14th-century texts (Tuesday in Nay, Wednesday in Gan, and Navarrenx are examples).

This type of plan was adopted in 1250 when trade in this region was booming.

The bastides were created by the kings and main lords to demonstrate their power by populating agricultural areas. Because of that, they expected the inhabitants of these new populations to pay them the corresponding taxes.

But what they did was ask by contract to build their houses with the same dimensions and for everyone to pay the same taxes. So it was like a little revolution.

The bastide creation plan was adapted for trade. The squares where the market takes place have arcades (covered passageways) to protect the goods.

The church is built outside the square; a clear example is Monpazier.

The bastides were very modern for their time:

• They put the commercial function in the heart of the city
• Are administered by civil society
• Taxes are streamlined and create a legal framework: the tax is paid in cash and calculated for each installed family, it is an ancestor of the current taxes that are paid per household.
•  They are built together to save space.

For those Traveling by Van in Perigord

Traveling by campervan or motorhome is very easy around the Dordogne – Perigord. In virtually all towns and cities, you will find areas for RVs or vans or “camping cars.”

There are areas attached to campsites where you can use the campsite pool, and there are campsites from normal to very good with 5 stars.

We spent a night at the campsite Le Paradis, where we were the first customers after the Covid (and the only ones), and they charged us only 10 euros. But it’s a 5-star campsite, so the normal price is higher.

There are free and paid areas that you can find in the Park4night app, or by looking at the signs, you’ll see that there are many. Prices are around 10 euros with all services (light and water).

There are pay areas without electricity for about 6 € / night, with water to recharge and empty gray and black water, and there are free areas where you pay for the water you use and empty the potty.

Actually, the potty can be emptied, but you have to pay for water to clear it up.

For Those Traveling by Car

There are accommodations in all the towns and cities we have visited. However, we didn’t use them because we were traveling by van.

So here’s our Booking link for you to take a look at and book the ones that best fit your travel style.

Book Your Trip Here!

Find a Hotel

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Get Travel Insurance

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Plan your trip to dordogne – périgord.

• The most beautiful villages of the Dordogne
• What to see in Bordeaux (it’s a good gateway)
• Tips for van travel
• What to take on a van trip

Last Updated on 5 October, 2023 by Veronica

Disclosure: Some of the links on this post are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, I may earn a small commission if you click through and make a purchase.

Author: Veronica

Vero, a seasoned traveler, has explored 25 countries and lived in five, gaining a rich perspective and fostering an infectious passion for travel. With a heart full of wanderlust, Vero uncovers the world’s hidden gems and shares insights, tips, and planning advice to inspire and assist fellow adventurers. Join Vero and let the shared passion for travel create unforgettable memories.

Soy Verónica, una apasionada de los viajes, me gusta compartir mis experiencias viajeras en mi blog. He estudiado Empresas y actividades turísticas y ando metida en el mundo del Marketing Digital. Me gusta aprender algo nuevo cada día, conocer nuevos lugares y culturas diferentes.

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Andrew Montgomery

The Dordogne

Few regions sum up the attractions of France better than the Dordogne. With its rich food, heady history, château-studded countryside and picturesque villages, the Dordogne has long been a favourite getaway for French families on les grandes vacances. It’s also famous for having some of France’s finest prehistoric cave art, which fill the caverns and rock shelters of the Vézère Valley.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Grotte de Lascaux

France’s most famous prehistoric cave paintings are at the Grotte de Lascaux, 2km southeast of Montignac. Naturally sealed and protected for millennia, it…

Grotte de Font de Gaume

This extraordinary cave contains the only original polychrome (as opposed to single-colour) paintings still open to the public. About 14,000 years ago,…

Château de Castelnaud

The massive ramparts and metre-thick crenellated walls of this quintessential medieval fortress (occupied by the English during the Hundred Years War)…

Grotte de Rouffignac

Hidden in woodland 18km north of Les Eyzies, this tri-level cave is one of the most complex and rewarding to see in the Dordogne. Board an electric train…

Musée Gallo-Romain Vesunna

Part of the park that contains the Tour de Vésone, this sleek museum designed by French architect Jean Nouvel encompasses a 1st-century Roman domus …

Jardins de Marqueyssac

Horticulture fans won’t want to miss these famous manicured gardens, stretching along a rocky bluff overlooking the Dordogne Valley. Signposted paths lead…

Weekly Markets

Sarlat-la-Canéda

For an introductory French market experience, visit Sarlat’s heavily touristed Saturday market, which takes over the streets around Cathédrale St-Sacerdos…

Grotte des Combarelles

This narrow, very long cave 1.5km east of Font de Gaume was the first rediscovered in the valley, in 1901, and is renowned for its animal engravings. Look…

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May 10, 2016 • 5 min read

In addition to magnificent castles, prehistoric cave art and lush landscapes, the Dordogne is famous for its foodie traditions. Immersing yourself in its…

The Dordogne and beyond

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Travel Inspiration for Your Bucket List France

30+ Top things to do in the Dordogne [from a local!]

4:39 pm //  by  Gillian //   Leave a Comment

If you’ve read our ‘about’ page, you’ll already know that we moved to the Dordogne in 2012 (and if you haven’t, go check it out here! ). As a result, we’ve been able to explore the length and breadth of this incredible region and have plenty of information on things to do in the Dordogne which we’ll share with you.

Chateaux, history, prehistory, gastronomy, diverse experiences, culinary experiences, thrill-seeking, action, adventure – you name it, we’ve got it!

The Dordogne – referred to as the Périgord by the French – is located in South West France and is made up of 4 different sub-regions: the Périgord noir (highest concentration of tourist sites), the Périgord pourpre (think ‘wine’), the Périgord vert (nature) and the Périgord blanc (chalky limestone). From prehistoric times to the One Hundred Year War, this region is steeped in history. As the majority of tourist sites are concentrated in the Périgord noir, we’ll be predominantly focussing on this area.

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In This Post You Will Find:

Visit a château

You can’t come to the Dordogne and not visit a chateau – it is the land of 1001 chateaux after all! I’ll never forget one of our first visits to the area when it seemed like a chateau popped up at every turn in the road. The scenery still blows me away. So here are some of the best ones that you should include in your Dordogne itinerary:

Château de Castelnaud

The stunning Château de Castelnaud , which stands proudly above the quaint village of Castelnaud, is of one of the best known and most visited châteaux in the region, if not in France. It has a colourful history and was involved in a tug-of-war between the English and the French during the 100 year war. Following a 3 week siege in 1442, it eventually fell back into the hands of the French. There are various workshops that take place during the school holidays if you have kids in tow. You’ll get some of the best views down the Dordogne valley.

>> Check out our top tips for visiting the Chateau de Castelnaud here ! <<

Château de Beynac

On the opposite bank of the Dordogne river, you’ll find the Château de Beynac , ancient arch rival to the Château de Castelnaud during the Middle Ages. This domineering 12 th century fortress is one of the best preserved castles around and perches high on the rocky promontory above the Dordogne. Richard Lionheart is said to have scaled the steep cliff from below and (briefly) conquered the château! In 1962, the castle went into private hands when it was bought and restored by Lucien Grosso. You may also recognise it from the silver screen as it featured in a number of films including the hilarious The Visitors 2 and The Joan of Arc Film .

Château des Milandes or Josephine Baker Castle

This chateau is one of our favourites! It’s known both as the Josephine Baker Castle and the Château des Milandes (the name of the local town). The origins of the castle date back to 1489 when Lord François de Caumont had it built for his wife who disliked the austere fortress-like feel of the Château de Castelnaud.

Many years later, Josephine Baker fell in love with this fairytale castle and bought it 1947. She lived there with her 12 strong rainbow tribe of adopted children for several years before she went bankrupt and sadly lost her beloved home. We particularly love her stage show outfits, including her famous iconic banana skirt, and other clothes as well as learning about her incredible role within the French resistance.

Château de Commarque

This spectacular site is much more than just a solitary castle, it’s the ruins of a small medieval village and some troglodyte caves thrown in for fun. Park up in the small car park (maybe use the toilets as there are none down at the castle), then venture down the tree lined 10-minute walk – it’s like a time tunnel to a different age. On arrival, the greenery clears to reveal the majestic sight of a honey coloured stone fortification perched high on a rocky hillside.

Château de Hautefort

>> Check out this post for a comprehensive guide to the must-visit chateaux in the Dordogne! <<

Explore Prehistoric Caves & Chasms

You’re in the birth cradle of European civilization so make the most of this opportunity and find out more about the world of Cro Magnon! Before you know it, you’ll be able to tell you the difference between Neanderthal man and Homo Sapiens.

Back in the 1940’s a group of school boys, discovered by chance, the entrance to the world-famous Lascaux cave which houses some incredible prehistoric art. The original cave soon became a popular tourist attraction, but because of concerns around the damaging effects of this, it was closed to the public. Since then, various replicas have been the created, but the latest iteration Lascaux 4 is seriously worth a visit.

The brand-new Lascaux experience starts with the exterior of the ultra-modern multi-million-pound visitor centre just outside of Montignac. Your visit will take you on a journey back in time some 20,000 years to the prehistoric period with the use of cutting-edge multimedia technology including 3D cinema.

Font de Gaume

If you enjoyed visiting Lascaux then you will love discovering the very special Font de Gaume in the attractive town of Les Eyzies. There are no replica prehistoric paintings here – everything you see is 20,000 years old!

In order to experience something that only the very privileged do, it’s an early start, as the only way to view this marvel is to queue before the doors open (although there are 26 advance purchase tickets available). It’s a first come first served situation because tour numbers are very limited. This is to restrict damage to the ancient artworks.

Tours are available in English and French with an expert guide, who will take you on the short walk up to the unassuming cave entrance. Once inside you can’t fail to be impressed by the quality and sheer volume of paintings of animals, as you move through the various galleries. There are very few sites like this in Europe open to the public as  most have followed Lascaux’s lead by closing their doors. We were warned by our guide that conditions in the cave are constantly monitored and if levels of certain gases reach an unsafe level for the paintings then the doors will be firmly bolted. We feel very privileged.

Gouffre de Proumeyssac

A short drive from the market town of Le Bugue is the amazing natural phenomenon that is the Gouffre de Proumeyssac . This deep underground cavern has been described as a ‘Crystal Cathedral’ due to its spectacular limestone rock formations.

The guided tour takes you down a series of ramps followed by a longish dark tunnel until you enter the cave itself. Once inside the lights are turned up and the fascinating limestone structures are revealed in all their glory.

Rain water drips from the ceiling into the cave pools and as it does, it builds some amazing calcite structures. The most famous feature being the giant La Meduse natural sculpture along with many smaller, but equally impressive stalactites and stalagmites.

Grotte de Rouffignac

This amazing system of caves (8km of passageways) is located 20 minutes’ drive from the market town of Le Bugue and contains around 250 cave paintings! There is a large car park in the woods and it’s only a short walk to the entrance of the cave where you can buy tickets.

The main cavern is so deep underground that it is necessary to take a small electric train to avoid a long walk – great fun for the kids. On arrival you will quickly realise why this grotte is known as the cave of a hundred mammoths. The animal art is everywhere and you can clearly see how the artist has used the natural relief of the rock to create a 3D effect. Not bad for 13,000 years ago.

Discover Gardens

The Dordogne is synonymous with lush green landscape (we do get our fair share of rain in the winter!) and there are some stunning formal gardens in the region.

Les Jardins Suspendus de Marqueyssac

The Hanging Gardens of Marqueyssac are one of the most beautiful romantic gardens of France. They perch high above the Dordogne Valley and include paths bordered by 150,000 hand-pruned boxwoods, breathtaking viewpoints, rock gardens, waterfalls, and verdant glades. From the belvedere 400 feet above the river, there’s an exceptional view of the Valley.

In the summer, every Thursday, the gardens turn into a most romantic setting with their ‘soirée chandelle’ when the entire gardens are filled with candle lights. It’s a fabulous experience for the entire family – there is music, entertainment. Be sure to include this unique experience in your Dordogne itinerary!

Les Jardins d’Eyrignac

Located 13km from Sarlat on a hilltop plateau, these beautiful formal gardens are set around an old manor house and famous for its 300 fabulous topiary sculptures. Shrubs, trees and hedges have been clipped to produce some very striking designs. The house and its gardens have been in the same family for 22 generations, which gives a visit a very personal and friendly feel.

There is an excellent restaurant where you can have a sophisticated lunch or just coffee and cake and a classy little giftshop at the entrance. The highlight for some, are the unique evening parties organised in July and August, where everyone is requested to wear white.

Go Canoeing

This is another must if you’re visiting the Dordogne! Canoeing is a wonderful way to discover the area and can be a great family outing. There are plenty of pick up points along both the Dordogne and the Vézère rivers with a choice of runs ranging from a short 4 kms to a more challenging 25 kms. You can take a picnic along with you or simply stop off now again and enjoy a beer and an ice-cream.

The companies will either drive you upstream in their buses and you canoe down or you leave from their base and you aim for a specific pick up time at a specific spot. We personally prefer the option of being driven upstream first so that we can take as long as we like to reach the canoe base on the return trip.

You have the choice between canoeing on the Dordogne river or the Vézère river. The choice is largely down to personal preference – the Vézere offers much wilder scenery (think Canada), whereas the Dordogne offers more picturesque scenery (chateaux, villages).

Trip on a Gabarre

A trip on a Gabarre is such a great way to get a different vantage point of the Dordogne. A ‘gabarre’ is a flat-bottomed wooden boat that was used in the past to transport goods along the river. There are two main gabarre trip options: one from Beynac (children are FREE in the mornings) and la Roque-Gageac ( les Gabarres Norbert ). You’ll enjoy some beautiful views across the river and you’ll be able to find out more about the local history as all visitors are provided with an audio guide.

River Swimming & Paddling

There’s nothing quite like wild swimming and a dip in the river is just what you need to cool yourself down on a sunny day. Why not grab yourself a baguettem head to one of the 3 rivers  and jump in the water for a swim or a paddle. There is plenty of choice of places to swim, however, here are our favourite spots:

Castelnaud (and why not combine it with a trip to the château)

Limeuil – the picturesque village sits next to the point where both rivers meet. There’s a large parking at the entrance to the village. It’s a perfect spot for young children to paddle safely in the water.

Le Coux – this place is much more off-the-beaten track and is a spot where lots of locals head to. It’s worth going to in the summer as there’s a life-guard on duty (apart from lunchtime of course – we’re in France after all, lol!).

Indulge in Local Gastronomy

The Dordogne is known as foodie heaven! It’s one of the gastronomic capitals of France and with very good reason. Foie gras, duck confit, gizzards, truffles, walnut tarts… your taste buds will be tantalized but be warned, you may leave with a few extra pounds or kilos! There’s an incredible respect for the terroir and a deep appreciation of nature’s bounty in this region.

Truffle Tours

The Dordogne is not only the land of chateaux but also of truffles (not the chocolate type) and foie gras. The Périgord Noir part of the Dordogne takes its name from the oak trees that are famous for producing truffles, the black diamond.

If you fancy learning a little more about this famous black diamond, sign up for a spot on a truffle tour. We strongly recommend joining the Truffe-en-Perigord’s tour run by Edouard and his wife, Carole. Edouard is passionate, exuberant, full of life and will have you heading home determined to start your own truffle orchard! He provides entertaining, informative, fun truffle tours and will teach you about the different types of truffes, how to find them and will give you a demonstration with his adorable border collie, Lino.

Wine Tasting

Many of the vineyards were destroyed by the phylloxera virus in the late 19th century, however, the area around Bergerac is brimming with vineyards and tasty wines just waiting for you to try out.

Château Feely

Clos les Verdots

Monbazillac wine

Regional Cookery Class

If you fancy doing something completely unique, then why not sign up to a regional cookery course with Ian, chef extraordinaire, at CookDordogne .

Ian from Le Chèvrefeuille offers full day courses for adults as well as junior cookery courses for children and their parents. Ian’s passion and enthusiasm for local produce, getting everyone into cooking and healthy eating is infectious. He is a natural teacher and knows exactly how to tailor the course to his audience. Ian has a fun, light-hearted and encouraging teaching style.

Visit Local Markets

Become one of the locals and trade in a supermarket shop for a visit to a real French market. Some excellent local produce is available from bread cooked in a traditional wood fire to locally grown strawberries. Here’s a list of all the weekly markets that take place in the Périgord noir.

Here are some of our favourites:

St Cyprien (Sundays)

The sleepy town of St Cyprien comes to life on a Sunday morning. Row up row of stalls set up the length and breadth of the high street. You’ll find fruit, vegetables, foie gras, duck, cheeses, fish, seafood, vietnamese springrolls, a charming wine truck, clothes as well as cute keepsakes and so much more. The market takes place all year round and swells in the summer months. It’s hugely popular and we strongly recommend getting there early in the morning to avoid the crowds!

Le Bugue (Tuesdays)

The weekly market in Le Bugue takes place on a Tuesday and has done so for the past 700 years! If you head to the covered market area – la halle – you’ll find a plaque that explains the history of the market. Back in 1319, the king of France  François V , decided that the market would take place on a Tuesday every week and this tradition still holds today. Mind blowing right? The market centres around the main square,  la halle  and rue de Paris where almost 300 stallholders gather on a weekly basis – come rain or shine. It’s a well known market and it’s great reputation is well deserved.

Sarlat (Saturdays & Wednesdays)

Sarlat’s market is famous in the region and with good reason. Head there on a Wednesday or Saturday for your fill of fresh produce, local crafts, clothes, artisanal products. The food section is focused in the old town running from the cathedral to the town square (Place de la Liberté).  Sarlat gets very busy on market days – particularly during the summer months so head there early to beat the crowds.

>> Be sure to check our awesome guide to Sarlat if you’re planning on visiting this jewel in the Dordogne’s crown! <<

Explore Villages & Towns

You’re spoilt for choice when it comes to quaint, picturesque towns and villages. In fact, the region is home to 10 of the 152 most beautiful villages of France! Here are our must-visit favourites:

The impossibly beautifully medieval town is the jewel in the crown of the lovely Dordogne. If possible, I recommend visiting out of high season as tourists flock here in July and August, streets are crowded, and parking can be an issue. Chances are you may have seen the town before, as it’s a favourite location for movie makers, the 1998 fantasy movie ‘Ever After’ starring Drew Barrymore was shot here.

>> Check our awesome travel guide to visiting Sarlat – click here ! <<

The town of Beynac hugs the hillside under the chateau and is also located next to the river. A walk through the village (or rather ‘up’ the village) isn’t for the faint-hearted as the village hugs the side of the cliff and is composed of rather steep alleys. But you’ll be rewarded with stunning views across the Dordogne valley after your walk up to the chateau. You can choose to take a trip on a Gabarre (kids go free in the morning), sit by river and take in the scenery, take a more vigorous walk up through the cobbled alleys to visit the famous château (apparently Richard Lionheart scaled the cliff and briefly conquered the chateau during the 100 year war!)

Two for the price of one – an impressive château and a beautifully preserved medieval village. Castelnaud-La-Chapelle (shortened to  Castelnaud) is located about 10kms from Sarlat and is another one of the 10 ‘most beautiful villages’ of France. The village sits under the shadow of the imposing fortress and makes for a great day out. Park up in the municipal car park near the river and enjoy a paddle in the Dordogne or the Céou – the village sits at the confluence of both rivers. There are restaurants, cafés and a Spar by the river and alternatively, hike up the village til you reach the top. Here you’ll be rewarded with magnificent panoramic views of the Dordogne valley and some restaurants where you can rest your weary legs and indulge in a refreshment or two.

La Roque-Gageac

La Roque-Gageac is classed as one of ‘Les Beaux Villages de France’ and with good reason. It recently featured in a French programme on La 5 and its reputation is well deserved. It’s nestled between the river and the limestone cliffs with dwellings which are literally carved into the rock face. You can walk along the water front or explore the backstreets of the village. Alternatively, jump aboard a gabarre boat for a wonderful view of the village from the river.

The incredible medieval town of Domme is perched high on top of a cliff top, with stunning views of the Dordogne valley and river. It was originally founded 1281 and was an important Bastide during the 100 years’ war. The ancient fortified walls are famous for holding the Knights Templar when they were imprisoned here in 1307. You can even see some of the brilliant graffiti that they etched in the stone, during their incarceration.

After wandering through the postcard perfect streets lined with interesting shops and restaurant, I recommend visiting the tourist office. From here you can purchase tickets for the Templar graffiti, the little tourist train and the amazing cave under the town square. Every Thursday, there is lovely market on the main esplanade lined with shady trees.

This beautiful little town is famous throughout France as the capital of prehistory. It’s located on the banks of the Vézère river with many of its traditional houses built into a massive limestone cliff… this is certainly a unique place to visit. If you wish to learn a little about life thousands of years ago in this area, then visit the excellent National Prehistory Museum. I also recommend visiting the fantastic font de Gaume cave network with its mind blowing 17,000-year-old cave paintings.

Classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France, this 11th century medieval town perches high on a rocky promontory in the Perigord noir. This well-preserved bastide town is located approximately 20kms south of Sarlat and is home to a bustling market. We recommend exploring the town including a visit to the unique troglodyte dwellings situated underground, directly below the market place.

This incredibly attractive village is sited high on a hill and is surrounded by strong walls which give the impression of a fairy tale fortress. It’s very easy to imagine medieval knights walking under the historic archway and climbing cobbled street to the village square above. Once you reach the top, there is the opportunity to visit the Panoramic Gardens of Limeuil, a green fingered delight with wonderful views. But for most though, the highlight is the shady beach below where the Dordogne and the Vézère river meet, throw in a view of a picturesque stone bridge and you have an ideal picnic spot.

Founded in 1284 by Edward I, King of Englands, Monpazier is classified as on of the most beautiful villages of France. It’s is a beautifully preserved bastide town that dates back almost 900 years. Located in the Périgord pourpre, it’s closer to Bergerac and the land of wine. 

St Léon-sur-Vézère

Visiting the pretty French village of St-Leon-sur-Vézère, another of the ‘plus beaux villages de France’, is just like stepping back in time. Life is focused around the meandering and gently moving river, perfect for a spot of swimming in the summer. On its banks you will find a delightful Romanesque church, an impressive chateau and a number of restaurants offering a range of local gastronomic experiences. Alternatively, just wander around the narrow and character filled streets, admiring ancient buildings and beautiful gardens.

Map of Must-Visit Towns & Villages in the Dordogne

Here’s handy map with the location of all the towns and villages listed above. It’ll allow you to quickly identify where the places are located and will help you plan your itinerary.

Evening Gourmet Markets

The Marchés Gourmands are a wonderful experience involving locals and tourists alike gathering around long tables and enjoying food and wine from the numerous popup style restaurants. Our favourite is the one set in picturesque Audrix with stunning views across the Dordogne Valley.

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Dordogne Travel Guide

The most quintessential French getaway, the Dordogne is beloved among tourists and locals alike for its picturesque countryside, fortified towns and rich historic significance. Our destination experts have combed the various towns and villages to find the best chateaux and villas in Dordogne located in the most idyllic locations. To help you make the most of your trip, we’ve put together a handy Dordogne travel guide with everything to see and do.

For harried city dwellers, Dordogne’s natural beauty is sure to revive your body and mind. A sunny, serene and welcomingly lazy corner of the country, it’s dotted with chateaux and picturesque bastides. Enriching the Dordogne experience, you’ll get to sample drool-worthy dinners where duck, black truffles and goat’s cheese take pride of place on the table alongside excellent local wines.

Typical Sights

• Lascaux IV  – Examine replicas of the famous Paleolithic paintings.
• Chateau de Hautefort – Wander the grounds of this elegant fortified château.
• Dordogne River – Hike on the banks, kayak or drive along this tranquil waterway.
• Gardens of Marqueyssac – Play hide and seek in the maze of impeccably sculpted hedges.
• Saint Front Cathedral – Admire this multi-domed Byzantine church, the largest building of its kind in Aquitaine.
• La Roque-Gagnac – Visit this stunning village, ranked among the ‘most beautiful villages in France’.
• Grotte de Rouffignac – View prehistoric graffiti at this colossal tri-level cavern.

When to Visit?

The Dordogne can be visited year-round. The majority of holidaymakers come in July and August when the weather is at its best, sitting sunny around 35 degrees Celsius. This is also the liveliest time to visit, with a high chance that you’ll stumble across a fete, fair, celebration, or even one of the seasonal evening markets, allowing you to enjoy cheerful al fresco meals with locals.

You will, of course, be joining the crowds, which means roads, restaurants and popular attractions will be busier. Late spring and early autumn are quieter alternatives, though the weather at these times may be more changeable.

If swimming and sunbathing aren’t a must for you, consider coming between October and April . During the colder months, the summer crowds will have truly dissipated, revealing a side of Dordogne rarely seen by most travellers. There is often mist, frost and even an occasional dusting of snow in the valleys.

For ardent gourmands, there is yet another reason to forgo the warmth of summer: black truffle season, which runs from December to March . Bear in mind that many of the top attractions and restaurants will close for the cold season, though some chateaux do remain open.

Getting Around

• Airports: Fly from the UK to Bergerac or Bordeaux. From there you can rent a car and continue your journey. Other airports include Brive Vallée de la Dordogne, Perigueux and Aurillac Tronquiere.
• By ferry: The best ferry ports for reaching the Dordogne region are in the north-east of France, at St Malo or Cherbourg. Brittany Ferries sails from Portsmouth to St Malo and also offers services from Portsmouth to Cherbourg alongside Condor Ferries. Other options include Caen, where Brittany Ferries sails from Portsmouth, and Le Havre, which is served by LD Lines.
• Public transport: Getting around the Dordogne without a car can prove restricting. Sarlat is the main public transport hub, with trains connecting it to other regional destinations including Bergerac and Le Buisson-de-Cadouin. Train services in the region are slow, irregular and infrequent. Buses, alas, are even worse.
• By bike: The Dordogne has lots of scenic bike routes, though the region is hilly in parts, so cyclists should be prepared for taxing uphill slogs. On the flip side, there is an almost limitless selection of gorgeous villages in which to stop for rest and refreshments.
• Hiring a car: The Dordogne’s exquisite rural landscapes and generally quiet roads make driving enjoyable. Car rental companies such as Europcar and Avis offer pick-ups direct from the region’s major airports.
• By Taxi:   If you don’t hire a car, then there are plenty of taxi companies operating in the Dordogne area, such as Taxi Faugére and Taxi Cy. You can find a larger list of providers here .

Hidden Gems

• Rise early for the Périgueux Market and marvel at the sheer variety of foie gras, meat, cheese, fresh bread, fruits and vegetables for sale. The market’s setting, under the shadow of the city’s magnificent many-domed cathedral, is stunning.
• The fantastically laid out Vesunna Gallo-Roman Museum allows its visitors to play archaeologists for the day as they gaze directly down through a glass panel into the excavated remains of a first-century residence below ground.
• The Chateau des Milandes manor house functions as a monument to vaudeville superstar Josephine Baker who once lived here. A museum inside pays homage to the singer’s colourful and intriguing life.
• Night markets, or marchés nocturnes, are an integral part of life here in the Dordogne, and a great excuse for the villagers to eat, drink and be merry. Join in on the fun at Loubejac ’s evening fete, which takes place on Thursday evenings throughout July and August. Don’t give away your neophyte status by arriving empty-handed; seasoned night-market visitors bring their own knife and fork.
• A sleepy, one-church hamlet surrounded by forest, Urval goes without mention in most guidebooks, but we think it’s worth a gander if only to experience its authentic yesteryear charm. Its Périgourdine-style architecture and 14th-century communal bread oven hark back to days gone by.

Best Family Activities

On a successful family holiday, every member of the brood will be catered to. You might think Dordogne, with its slow-paced rural ways and stuck-in-time ambience, won’t be your kid’s cup of tea, but the various caves, rivers and walled medieval citadels are perfect for younger travellers to explore. In addition to nature’s charms, there are adventure parks, aquariums and child-friendly museums too.

Best of all is the laid-back attitude that locals have to children: many of the restaurants, farms and wineries you visit will be family-run, so the owners go out of their way to make sure you and your little ones feel truly welcome.

• Chateau de Castelnaud  goes one better and has battle recreations, armour workshops and live demonstrations of trebuchets – fiercely impressive medieval catapults!
• If you want to travel in style, you can use Ze Chauffer to drive you around – tours can be personalised to your family’s taste.
• Descend below the views and visit some of the region’s impressive caves and grottos with the kids. Lascaux is by far the most famous, but a guided tour around the  Cave of Font-de-Gaume  will show you genuine cave paintings, unlike Lascaux’s reproductions.
• We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the river! One of the most popular things to do is canoeing or kayaking – and it’s pretty gentle, so kids of all ages can enjoy it. Canoe France is a good place to start.
• Aux Etangs du Bos  is a great water park that’s perfect for a summer day trip, while  Les Villages Bournat takes the whole family back in time.

If you’re looking for more family-friendly ideas, be sure to check out the best activities for kids in Dordogne .

Best Family Cycling Routes

Known as the “Voie Vert” (the “Green Routes”), several routes through the Dordogne countryside completely ban all motorised vehicles, making them perfect for families on foot, bikes or horseback! Some of them might be a bit lengthy for younger kids, but a shorter trip will be a great way to introduce them to the fantastic views and brand new landscapes.

• The route from  Trelissac to Marsac sur l’Isle  follows the river. It has plenty of rest stops too, making it a nice, gentle activity.
• The Vialard to Grolejac route also takes in the river but goes a little inland too for a change of scenery. This long route can be done in full or in part if you feel like a more leisurely day.
• The green route through  Saint-Pardoux-la-Rivière in Thiviers  takes you into the heart of the country – it’s totally unspoilt and makes the most of the beautiful countryside.

Things to Do

Gathering your nearest and dearest for a summer get-together in a Dordogne villa may be the best decision you’ve made all year. Good wine, good food, good weather and good company? Sounds like a no-brainer. But the secret to ensuring your Dordogne getaway goes swimmingly is to plan ahead and arrange some unforgettable activities for the group. Here are some of the best group outing ideas for grown-ups in the Dordogne.

• Gouffre de Padirac  is our top pick, with a truly impressive descent before enjoying a boat ride while you’re down there.
• Dordogne is the ideal place to explore by bike, whether you just fancy a little ramble to the nearest boulangerie or a route that’ll challenge both your fitness and your thighs!
• And on a similar note, a time-honoured way of enjoying the best of the Dordogne is on the river. Canoe Roquegeoffre Port D’Enveaux  hire out boats, and can even help you out with what routes to take.
• Jardin Eyrignac  opens its beautiful gardens to visitors and hosts a number of workshops that adults are bound to enjoy.

Want more to explore with friends? Visit our blog on the best group activities in the Dordogne !

Dishes to Try in Dordogne

Dordogne’s gastronomic scene tends to be dominated by one little creature: duck. You’ll find one or several duck dishes on almost every menu in the region. From slow-cooked duck confit, sautéed breast and smooth foie gras all feature heavily in the region’s cuisine.

Walnuts also flourish in the Dordogne and are used not just in their raw form, but to make oil, wine (vin de noix), cheese and bread. Truffles and cèpes, so prized by gourmands, are also mainstays on Dordogne’s culinary scene. Every budget is catered to, with inexpensive truck-stop restaurants and farmers’ markets offering bargain dining deals, while fine-dining establishments plate up extravagant, once-in-a-lifetime Michelin-star meals.

Wine-wise, you’ll be spoilt for choice. The Bergerac area is the Dordogne’s main wine-producing region and includes everything from dry whites (Bergerac and Montravel) and full-bodied reds (Pécharment) to dessert wines (Saussignac and Monbazillac).

• The local goat’s cheese known as cabécou is well worth sniffing out, though you’ll often find it in salads served at bars and restaurants.
• The Dordogne is also famous for its walnuts , which you’ll find in cakes, pastries, oils and flours – as well as being a tasty snack on their own, of course.
• Dine out on magret de canard (pan-fried duck breast from the Moulard breed) or a duck gizzard salad.

Best Foodie Experiences

Ideal for those who like to plan their holidays around their food, these experiences ensure you really get a taste for the Dordogne’s delicious cuisine.

• Chateau Feely  in Saussignac takes pride in creating organic terroir wines that are a little out of the ordinary. They can arrange lunch to accompany your tasting and provide a fascinating introduction to winemaking as well as their own particular ethos.
• Want to take a little of that unbeatable South of France cuisine back with you?  Le Chèvrefeuille Cookery School , found in Saint-Cyprien, will take you on a market tour to grab some ingredients before teaching you the secrets of whipping up a delicious, authentic meal.
• Bergerac Wine Tours  are also great if you want to learn more about the region’s winemaking heritage – they’ll pick you up from your villa or chateau and take you around select vineyards and wineries, so by the end you’ll be fully clued up on France’s most celebrated export.
• Got a sweet tooth? It’s well worth indulging in the Dordogne’s mouth-watering cakes and pastries, but make sure you check out the  Bovetti Chocolat Museum  in Terrasson-Lavilledieu. There are hands-on activities and a shop to pick up some treats to take home!

Now that you know all about this region with our Dordogne travel guide, why not check out our luxury villas in Dordogne ? Whether you’re holidaying with your family, large group or significant other, there’s sure to be something to suit your needs. And, if you need a little help deciding, our concierge team are happy to help.

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Travel Guide

Dordogne travel guide.

We are in awe of the Dordogne region in France (you’ll see it called Perigord too!). It’s just to the right of Bordeaux and home to more than 1001 chateaux, so many caves, gorgeous green landscapes, daring cliffs along the Dordogne river, and incredible food.

The below is a log of the trip we did in July 2021. We were in the area for 2 weeks and honestly could have easily stayed another week. There is so much to do!!

HOW I PLAN VACATIONS IN FRANCE

What I’d suggest is using the below as a guide, but leaving the schedule loose. This is how I like to plan. I have an idea of things we’d like to see in the area. For scheduling reasons, I make reservations at the restaurants I really want to go to. They’ll be busy so you sometimes have to plan around this. Then I take a look at events that we might want to do, like the candlelit evenings at the Marqueyssac gardens or the vide greniers/brocantes (antiquing!!) that are happening on certain days. I’ll add those to the calendar, then each day see how we are feeling.. is it a slow day where we just want to chill and grill out and enjoy the pool, or are we feeling like a chateau or a hike? Leaving it loose like this means less stress but also that we can enjoy what is happening in the area. At the beginning of every trip, as we get close to where we are staying my eyes are peeled for signs. France is still very traditional in this sense, so to find fun local things to do like the outdoor movie at a chateau and picnic, you have to look for the signage.

Where we stayed : Le Bugue – we loved the butcher in the town and the markets were great on Saturday and Tuesday. It’s also not a touristy town so it wasn’t overrun by people.

The apartment we rented: Le Clocher (psst.. we booked through Olivers Travel here , but it’d be cheaper to book through the local agency, Simply Perigord , that takes care of the property. They have lots of other great options too.) To note… most rentals in France are Saturday to Saturday, ours was Friday to Friday, meaning we missed a lot of traffic on the road.

Getting around : We drove from Paris which was about 6 hours. The rest stops in France are excellent and very clean. Just a heads up that you really do need a car to get around in this area. The roads are small but not difficult to maneuver.

How to find Antiques : I like to search for Vide Greniers (yard sales, cheap!, but lots of baby clothes) or brocantes (antique vendor fairs, a little more expensive, but no baby clothes). I look on these sites: Brocabrac.fr and Vide-greniers.org. Both are great. You’ll also see brocantes and antiquaires as shops to visit. I look at pictures on Google Maps to get a feel for it before we go.

Helpful Tip : Yes a lot of things close on Sunday in France – so keep this in mind for grocery stores. BUT… as it’s a vacation area, there are tons of events that happen in the evening (on Monday as well).

Restaurants: Nice places book up FAST!!! If there’s a restaurant I suggest below that you really want to go to, make a reservation 1-2 weeks out (or even 3!). Call or email, sometimes you can reserve on the website. Don’t worry if you don’t speak French 🙂 this is a mostly tourist spot and you’ll be able to get by making a reservation in English.

The Regional Food : Duck, Foie Gras, and Walnuts!

OUR ABSOLUTE FAVORITES:

Francois : BBQ!!! Driving around to visit all the villages, each better than the last, on B roads (small back roads) then going back “home” and having a great BBQ and saucisson (charcuterie).

Molly: Le Vieux Logis Restaurant- it was incredible, comfortable as far as a high-end restaurant goes, and the food was extraordinary. Honestly, a can’t miss in my book if you like to go to a nice restaurant while on vacation. I loved the Chateau Campagne. It’s a beautiful feminine chateau where you can explore the grounds for free. They have great (free!) events like the food truck and outdoor movie theater evening. And then there are two caves that we visited that I can’t recommend enough: Grotte de Rouffignac and Gauffre de Promeyssac (see below for more details). Both for me were extraordinary.

MORE SPECIFIC FAVORITES:

Towns : Issegeac, Beynac, La Roque Gageac, Rocamadour, Saint Cyprien, Limeuil

Caves: Grotte de Rouffignac and Gauffre de Promeyssac

Restaurants : Le Vieux Logis, Chateau de la Treyne, and Logis Hotel Belle Etoile

VIEW THE GOOGLE MAP OF OUR FAVORITES TO PLOT OUT YOUR TRIP

WHAT WE DID EACH DAY:

Day 1 (Friday) – Arrival and check in to the house we rented in Le Bugue after a 6 hour drive from Paris. Thankfully we arrived before the butcher closed so it was BBQ for dinner and a drive around at sunset to orient ourselves.

Day 2 (Saturday) – Taking it easy. We went to the market in Le Bugue , did a BBQ for lunch, enjoyed the pool.. I stopped by La Grange, a great antique shop just outside of Le Bugue.

Day 3 (Sunday) – Brantome Abbey for the brocante out front. A gorgeous town with rivers throughout. The Abbey has troglodytes outback. The brocante was fantastic but very expensive.

LUNCH suggestion : Comme a la Maison (13 Quai Bertin, 24310 Brantôme en Périgord), go around the back of one of the main parking lots along the river to find it. Fantastic. Local food, reasonably priced, and very good. As it was off the main stretch, it was not overrun with tourists. For a nice lunch, l’Abbaye de Moulin looked nice.

After lunch we drove through the town of Perigord . I wasn’t super enamored with it – you really need to go to the older area in the city center, but it was very neat! I think I was hot and everything was closed (Sunday!). So not high on the list but eh! if you’ve got time!

Day 4 (Monday) : Chateau Beynac – LOVED the city. It’s a big uphill hike to the chateau but the streets are stone-paved and it’s beautiful everywhere you look. The fortress was huge, medieval, and rather empty, but neat to walk around. Great views. On Monday, there is the producteur market at the base of the city in the parking area. It’s local producers – it was a tad touristy, but fun to walk through if you’re there. In the evening we went to Chateau Campagne for a picnic and outdoor movie (free!). There were lots of food trucks with local food from the region – SO much fun!! I found this after I saw a sign advertising it in Le Bugue.

Day 5 (Tuesday) : HUGE market in Le Bugue then we went to Le Village de la Madeleine , a troglodyte village with the ruins of a fortress and prehistoric traces. It was neat, but so much more interesting as we had a great guide, otherwise, we would have wondered around for about 30 minutes said, eh that was cool, and headed out. Just a heads up that you cannot see the prehistoric area as it is too close to the river and in danger of flooding. Then we went to Le Grand Roc, a cave inside of a huge rock on the side of a cliff, perfectly situated to have all sorts of stalactites and mites inside. The visit leads you through a small carved-out passageway surrounded by formations. It felt like being in a gemstone and for some reason wasn’t my favorite, maybe because I like huge caverns, but Francois really liked it. In the evening we went to a Marche Nocturne (evening food market) in Vergt where the theme was fraise (strawberries!!). There was music, lots of food trucks, and it felt like the whole village was out celebrating! There are tons of these, so just look for the flyers or search local tourist sites.

Day 6 (Wednesday) : AMAZING brocante at Brantome en Perigord that was happening every Wednesday in July/August. If you’re here for this (check BrocaBrac.org!), then GO!

LUNCH: La Tour des Vents – a nice, modern restaurant with views of the vineyards in the Monbazillac area. The desserts are massive and delicious.

The town: Issegeac – LOVEDDDD!!!! This town is SO So cute!! Great little boutiques, a wonderful vibe, and is unknown to tourists!!! It was picturesque and I’d highly recommend it. Explore the windy streets and look for a tiny brocante run by a brit. She has great taste! A restaurant here that looks great: L’Atelier

Cloister of Cadouin – A cloister where you tour the open courtyard and the arched covered pathways around it. There isn’t a whole lot to see, but I would recommend it as it the garden in the courtyard was simply magical and took my breath away.

Day 7 (Thursday) : A chill day as Francois’ parents arrived. We did a little walk around the Chateau Campagne and had a delicious ice cream at La Maison de Campagne, a restaurant in a square just opposite the entrance to the Chateau. Would highly recommend!

Day 8 (Friday): We went to Grotte de Rouffignac and I LOVED it!! You do the tour in the original train from 1959 that they used when they started doing tours there. This is one of 30 caves in the world that has prehistoric drawings. The guide will talk in French – I didn’t understand it all – but it didn’t matter… I was in awe of the mammoths and rhino drawings. HIGHLY recommend. Psst – the site isn’t impressive in the least, but take my word for it!

In the afternoon we drove to Chateau Commarque a fortress ruins in the countryside. It’s a little hike to get to it (which I loved), and really impressive to see. You can climb through the ruins and explore as much as you’d like!

Day 9 (Saturday) : An insanely busy visit to Sarlat during their market day. Would not recommend it… it was TOO BUSY!! So you couldn’t enjoy the city itself. I’d go on a non-market day (aka not Saturday or Wednesday) as it really is a gorgeous town to explore.

The city of Domme – a cute town but very touristy (when there’s no boulangerie to be seen.. that’s not a good sign). Would I recommend it though? Yes… because there is a great view over the countryside and Dordogne river. So just stop by, grab a drink on the terrace and soak up the view. We did the cave underneath the city, which was nice, but eh, could have skipped it… but… great on a hot day..!

Day 10 (Sunday): We dropped Francois’ parents off at the train station then popped into Saint Cyprien for a vide grenier. How cute is this town!!! and how great was the vide grenier!!! It was raining but I didn’t care!

Day 11 (Monday): Francois’ birthday!! We went to lunch at Le Vieux Logis and it was incredible. The space was gorgeous and we ate under a tunnel of trees. For a once in a lifetime meal, oh would highly recommend. (hoping I can make it a couple more times in a lifetime!!!). The food was super good and they were kind enough to ask if there were any major dislikes we had or allergies at the beginning. The staff was very welcoming and even though it was quite fancy, it felt so comfortable (especially after a glass of champagne). YES!

Afterwards, we drove through gorgeous landscapes on a tiny road (seriously, like the entire vacation we’ve done this – excellent!) and went to go see Chateau et Jardins de Losse. I really enjoyed it – there’s a brocante on the grounds! A sweet tea room and the tour was short but well done, and interesting. It felt like it was family-run. There were kid-friendly activities too and you can go down into the dungeon!

Day 12 (Tuesday) : We took the suspended basket down through the natural entrance to the Gauffre de Proumeyssac . It was honestly incredible. As we went down, the guide chatted with us about the basket and cave, and a light show was taking place highlighting the huge chandelier-like formations in the cave. It was one huge open space and had a fascinating history (I won’t ruin it!). You can enter through the side entrance on foot, but shoot, I’d really recommend paying extra for the basket. It was unforgettable.

Afterward, we hit up the market in Le Bugue! It’s the day when it’s huge and takes up almost the entire town. We explored the brocante that was next door to the house we rented and chilled! Honestly a bit tired from the last couple days 😀

We headed out mid-afternoon and drove about 1.5 hours to Chateau de la Treyne for tea. We weren’t able to get in for lunch or dinner but OH WOULD I WANT TO COME BACK!!!! WOW…..!!!!! BOOK IT! Plan this one weeks ahead! I called a week before and said, any dinner, any lunch, whatever you’ve got.. and they were full. So I asked if we could come for tea. I would say they don’t normally do this, and it was nice, but oh to come for a full meal…!!! or to stay here! This chateau is beautiful and had such a family feel about it – with … incredible food and a fabulous decor.

After that, we headed to Rocamadour, a town a lot of people had recommended. On the way, we saw a goat cheese farm and stopped to visit – fun! Keep your eyes out for this! The region is known for Rocamadour chevre. NOM!

Rocamadour itself… hmm.. the main street was VERY touristy, lots of souvenir shops, like all souvenir shops, and lots of people. I still liked it though.. here’s why.. Francois had been before and suggested we start at the top and work our way down. Touristy mostly do the main street, then just venture up to the cathedral, so we avoided a lot of the crowds. We started by walking to the chateau and visiting the ramparts. You have to insert a two 1€ coins, or a 2€ coin to go through the revolving gate, then up to see neat views and the courtyard of the chateau (which is closed to visits). We went at the end of the day, and were the only ones up there. Then we walked down the winding path down the mountain to the cathedral that is built into the rock. It wasn’t too busy as it was the end of the day, and incredible to see. After that, we very quickly walked down the main street. haha. Would I go back? hm maybe not, felt like I’ve seen it, and yes it was neat, and very beautiful, but very touristy. Try to go on a grey day. There will be less people, and if it’s the summer, it will really help with the heat, as it’s a lot of hiking up and down!

Day 13 (Wednesday) : We took it easy and hiked on one of the many trails in the region with Eliott and grabbed an ice cream. Then in the evening, we returned to Sarlat to experience the city without the market. It was beautiful!

Day 14 (Thursday ): Our last day!!!!! We went to La Roque Gageac for lunch and to explore the city. It was pretty busy with tourists but pretty! Lots of canoes along the river. We had an excellent lunch there that I would definitely recommend, at Logis Hotel Belle Etoile . They have a pretty terrace that overlooks the river. The formula for lunch is inexpensive and fabulous, like eating at a starred restaurant.

We really didn’t want the day to end after that and drove to the cute town of Limeuil . You do need to walk uphill to see the town, but I really liked it. It is lesser-known and pretty. There is a garden at the tippy top that you can pay to visit that looked nice. We grabbed a drink at one of the terraces along the river to watch the canoes go by and reminisce.

Day 15 (Friday) : On our way out of town, we stopped by Boulangerie-Patisserie Maitre Artisan (Avenue de la Liberation, Le Bugue) to pick up a walnut cake. They won the 2019 award for the best “Gateau au Noix” and I had to try it – spoiler alert: it was fabulous! The best!

LET ME KNOW IN THE COMMENTS IF THIS WAS HELPFUL OR IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS!

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Thank you for this blog about the Dordogne region. I visited twice and stayed at the hotel overlooking the view in the photo. I did a pastel painting of the river as the sun went down. Like every region in France, the area has its own character.

Wonderful descriptions of all those areas in the Dordogne 👍👍 it’s a great area ! Thsnk you for always sharing ..I have your cookbook and I have given it to so many of my friends..

Loved reading your trip – we are headed to saint cyprian first week in July. You mentioned a train station – do you know the closest one to sarlat? Also how were the crowds?

Dordogne travel guide

Visit Dordogne (Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France)

The Dordogne has stunning medieval castles, historical villages and towns, and the famous prehistoric caves of the UNESCO listed Vezere Valley to enjoy, each of them set in the attractive landscapes of the region, with rivers, forests and beautiful countryside, so it is no surprise that the Dordogne is one of the most popular destinations in France!

Note that the Dordogne area is quite large, perhaps two hours drive from north to south and a similar distance east to west, even more if the places are not close to the larger roads, so you are unlikely to see everything in one visit - no problem though, because you will certainly want to come back again!

Perigord Noir - the south-east Dordogne

In Perigord Noir you will find many of the most famous castles, towns and villages of the Dordogne region, many in spectacular locations, and with fascinating histories to tell - but you will also find more tourists and busier roads, especially in high season.

Sarlat is the 'medieval capital of the Dordogne' and perhaps the most lovely town in France, and is in the heart of Perigord Noir.

Three of the villages here are listed among the 'most beautiful villages in France: the riverside setting, ancient village streets and castle make Beynac a highlight for visitors; the ancient stone houses along the river at La Roque-Gageac make it very scenic and Domme is a hilltop village with some of the best views in the Dordogne as well as extensive caves in the village centre. Close by the pretty village of Carlux has a ruined castle in its centre.

To the west of these principal towns and villages, Saint-Cyprien is another attractive Dordogne market town and also the quiet village of Siorac-en-Perigord .

Among other castles in the area, Chateau de Montfort is a fairytale castle on a hill a few kilometres from Sarlat, Chateau de Puymartin is another of the lovely castles in Perigord Noir, and the attention to historical detail and the views across the river make Chateau de Beynac a treat for visitors.

Chateau de Castelnaud is both a medieval castle and an extensive museum of medieval warfare - your children will love it! An interesting contrast nearby, the 15th century Chateau des Milandes is well known because Josephine Baker owned the castle during the 20th century.

There are some attractive gardens to visit whilst in the area. The Jardins de Marqueyssac is perhaps the most popular but the Jardins d'eau at Carsac-Aillac and the Jardins de Cadiot at Carlux are also a treat, and the Jardins du manoir d'Eyrignac are one of the most lovely gardens in France.

Near to La Roque Gageac the Jardin de la Ferme Fleurie is a pretty garden bursting with colour and on the edge of Domme the Jardins d'Albarede sit in a pretty valley.

North of Sarlat (close to the Manoir d'Eyrignac) you will also enjoy a walk around the pretty village of Saint-Genies and perhaps the small town of Salignac-Eyvigues if you are nearby.

France This Way review: this is certainly the most visited part of the Dordogne and contains many of the highlights although we would be inclined to visit outside high season if possible to appreciate it at its best.

Vézère Valley and Les Eyzies to Terrasson

In this part of the Dordogne you can explore the prehistoric settlements of the Vézère Valley - the roots of prehistoric man in Europe are in the Dordogne region and much of the region is now a UNESCO listed world heritage site. Although there are no large towns here, this is the most central part of the department, so is a good choice if you hope to explore all parts of the Dordogne.

The most famous attraction here, the Lascaux caves are probably the most famous prehistoric cave paintings in the world.  Montignac is a pretty riverside town most visited for its proximity to Lascaux caves.

Les Eyzies is a small village which would generally be considered as the centre of any tour of the Vézère valley: see Les Eyzies . Les Eyzies is home to the National Museum of Prehistory , the Pole International of Prehistory and the prehistoric shelters of Abri Pataud and the Abri Cro-Magnon .

Close to Les Eyzies, Font-de-Gaume has the only prehistoric paintings in the Dordogne where visitors can see the originals. Another very interesting prehistoric settlement is set into the side of a cliff along the Dordogne river at La-Roque-Saint-Christophe .

The nearby village of Le-Moustier was also home to some important prehistoric discoveries. Also near here is the pretty village of Campagne whose castle has very pretty gardens that are free to visit.

Among other towns and villages here, Saint-Leon-sur-Vezere is a very pretty village on the Vézère river centred around a lovely 12th century church; Plazac is a very tiny village, but also very picturesque; Saint-Amand-de-Coly is another of the exceptionally pretty villages to be found nearby.

The most important castle in this part of the Dordogne, despite being abandoned for several centuries, Chateau de Commarque has now been rediscovered is a fascinating castle to visit. A little further north, the world renowned Gardens of the Imagination in Terrasson are a major highlight, and you can explore the small village of Badefols d'Ans .

France This Way review: the sense of contact with prehistory along the Vezere as you visit the caves and prehistoric dwellings make it a very interesting region, and it is also very scenic, perhaps the most picturesque part of the Dordogne department.

Perigord Purple - south-west Dordogne

As well as well known medieval towns such as Bergerac , on the Dordogne river and with a lovely historic centre, this is a region to discover many small bastide villages and towns (bastides are medieval 'new towns' founded in the 12th-13th centuries) several of which are found in the southern Dordogne (with others further south in Lot-et-Garonne such as Villereal and Monflanquin ).

Several villages here are classed among the 'most beautiful villages in France' such as Belves , a very attractive village with a great deal of character; Monpazier , among our favourite five villages in the whole of France and unmissable when you visit; and Limeuil is a pretty village on the confluence of the Vézère and Dordogne rivers.

Near to here is the small village of Urval which has a very unusual ancient communal bread oven.

Among the other popular towns and villages, Beaumont-du-Perigord is a small traditional bastide town; Cadouin is a very small village with an imposing abbey, listed as a UNESCO heritage site; to the south of Bergerac, Eymet is a traditional medieval bastide town; Issigeac is an unspoiled medieval village very well known for its Sunday market. Molieres is officially an 'unfinished' bastide but is still very pleasant to explore!

Not far from Cadouin the small village of Montferrand-du-Perigord is a very small village on a steep hill in a scenic part of the Dordogne and Saint-Avit-Senieur is visited for its medieval abbey, a listed UNESCO heritage site. Villefranche-du-Perigord is a bastide town in the valleys to the south of the Dordogne.

The renowned wines of Monbazillac are produced just south of the Bergerac where you can visit the château of Monbazillac . The hilltop position and far reaching views make Chateau de Biron one of our favourite castles in Perigord Purple.

East from Bergerac, Le Bugue is a small town on the river well placed to explore the centre of the region and Tremolat is a picturesque village - the nearby Cirque de Tremolat has incomparable views across the Dordogne river. The pretty village of Paunat with its abbey church is also near here and is home to the gardens of the Chartreuse du Colombier .

Slightly off the more popular tourist trails, Villamblard is a very traditional French town in the countryside north of Bergerac.

France This way comment: many visitors love this region for its unspoiled nature, medieval villages, and also the lower visitor numbers and quieter roads. See Perigord Pourpre .

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Perigord Vert and Perigord Blanc - the northern Dordogne

Less visited than the southern parts of the Dordogne department, the north also has its share of market towns and castles, beautiful scenery and picturesque villages, including Perigueux, 'capital' of the Dordogne. Part of these northern areas fall within the Perigord-Limousin Natural Regional Park.

Perigueux is an important regional centre with an imposing byzantine cathedral and interesting medieval town. North of Perigueux, Brantome is a town and abbey in a particularly lovely setting on the Dronne River and you can also visit Bourdeilles , and the castle around which the pretty village developed, which make for a lovely stroll in the northern Dordogne.

Further north near the border with Charente are the villages of Varaignes , Mareuil-en-Perigord , Javerlhac-et-la-Chapelle-Saint-Robert and Lusignac.

Other towns include Nontron , a quiet town to the south of the Natural Regional Park of Perigord-Limousin; Thiviers , renowned for being the foie gras capital of the northern Dordogne; Sorges , known as the truffle capital and also with an interesting garden of 50 parterres called Le Bouquet ; Saint-Astier with its pretty riverside setting; Riberac , a quiet town well known for its important regional market; and the market town of Excideuil .

Further west are the quiet towns and villages of Neuvic sur l'Isle with its chateau, Mussidan and Issac which is close to the Chateau de Montreal.

Among the castles of interest here are the Chateau de Jumilhac , sometimes called the 'sleeping beauty castle' and famous for its multi-spired roofline; the Chateau de Puyguilhem , unusual in being a renaissance period castle - most here are medieval in origins; and the Chateau de Hautefort - often claimed to be the most beautiful castle in the Dordogne, Hautefort also has very impressive views.

Our favourite village in the northern Dordogne, Saint-Jean-de-Cole is in a riverside setting and has an old stone bridge, a castle and many lovely houses.

France This way comment: this region is quite different in character to the 'central' Dordogne and provides a quite different visitor experience, with less major sights but more peace and quiet. Lovely region to unwind! See Perigord Blanc and Perigord Vert .

Popular activities

Apart from exploring many of the towns and villages there are numerous leisure activities available in the Dordogne. Our personal favourites include:

• Canoeing along the Dordogne river, available in many of the popular tourist destinations along the river and also in places along the Vézere and in Brântome
• Visiting one of the popular Dordogne markets
• Exploring the quiet backroads which are usually unknown to tourists and discovering the perfect picnic spot
• Cycling through the small hamlets and rolling countryside on quiet roads
• Horseriding is widely available
• There are many other activities including several organised around the 'prehistoric connection' such as dinosaur parks and prehistoric village

Arrange a visit to Dordogne

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Hotels in Dordogne

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Map of dordogne and places nearby, visit near dordogne with france this way reviews.

The French version of this page is at Dordogne (Francais)

More information

• See more places, tourist attractions and local markets at attractions in the Dordogne
• See an index of all Dordogne communes
• Feature article: countryside and bastide towns in the southern Dordogne - Monpazier, Villefranche-du-Perigord and area

French version: Dordogne (Francais)

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Trip report - Dordogne Forum

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Trip report

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We simply loved the region. Loved, loved, loved. I'd been to Sarlat before, but it was winter and the whole athmosphere was very different - during my 1st trip there were lots of stores/restaurants closed and there were very few people on the streets. I think probably the best is to go during Spring, but that's not a possibility for us. Summer was wonderful though, with only one really hot day.

- Domme is absolutely beautiful. We stayed there one afternoon and if we had more time I would have wanted to go back. The village has everything: the houses/streets are beautiful, the view of the Dordogne is lovely and there even is a cave with lots of stalactites/stalagmites. The recommended restaurant is a bit expensive (cheapest menu is 42 euros). We had a crepe from the market and it tasted like paper, don't recommend.

- La Roque-Gageac is lovely. It is really small, so you can visit it in around two hours. I'm not a fan of steps, but if you want there is a huge stair that leads to half way of the clif - the view is probably amazing.

- Grotte de Font de Gaumme is just amazing.

- Sarlat is like a bigger version of Domme, for the good and for the bad.

- Cruise with Gabares Norbert: very quick (a bit less than 1 hr) but really beautiful. I made a reservatio in advance but discovered it was not necessary

- Staying in Vézac was perfect. We stayed at Le Relais des 5 Chateaux (I posted a review) for three nights, and the location was awesome: really close to La Roque-Gageac and Beynac and close enough of Domme and Sarlat.

- Lunch at La Belle Etoile, in La Roque-Gageac was amazing. Great food (the best desert of the whole trip), awesome view of the Dordogne.

- The markets: I was really dissapointed... I thought they would have mainly food but no, lots of crafts - uninteresting ones, I should add. We went to the market in Domme and La Roque-Gageac and we saw basically the same booths in both of them. Sarlat's saturday market is HUGE, and really, really crowded. Also disapointing (there are even booths of "made in china" products!).

- We decided to stay for two nights at Les Granges Hautes at St. Crepin et Carlucet (north of Sarlat). If you want, you can read my review for further information, but basicaly it is not worth the money and the location is really bad compared to Vézac.

If I remember anything else, I'll post a reply here.

If you want, you can see pictures of this part of our trip here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/adriana.haguenauer/Perigord

Just remembered something else: the gardens of Chateau de Marqueyssac where really dissapointing. We even went there twice, one at night (thursday is candle night) and since we thought we didn't see the gardens well, we decided to go back during the day. Spent a total of 17 euros each (expensive, in my opinion) and I'd rather have gone back to Domme.

Thanks for posting this comprehensive report! It sounds like you saw most of the best of the immediate area. (But did you go to the chateaux at Beynac, and/or over to Rocamador or Gouffre de Padirac? Or Perigueux? Or Hautefort? Or Roque St Cristophe? No?? Oh dear, lol, you may need to return and stay even longer!)

I agree about Domme (very easy to picture it hundreds of years ago). I don't know which restaurant you tried, but even though it's pricey my top recommendation is the one in the Hotel l'Esplanade. Picture an evening glass of champagne, looking out over the valley. And, the hotel itself is a delightful place to stay - a little funky, but that makes it fun.

When you go back (I'm sure you will want to do that), consider getting a gite and doing your shopping in the "real" markets. I agree about the markets at Domme and Sarlat, but the surrounding villages have markets that are mainly food items and are where the local residents do their food shopping. We spent a week staying in a farmhouse near St Cyprien a few years ago, and every day went to the nearest village market to do our shopping - great fun!

I also agree about how crowded Sarlat is - I loved being there in mid-October when the crowds had left but the weather still was glorious. I can't take being there in the height of "the season" however because it's just mobbed.

Good trip report and enjoyed your pix. We haven't been to Dordogne. It looks very tempting.

This topic has been closed to new posts due to inactivity.

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