1995 kawasaki voyager specs

Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager (Voyager XII): review, history, specs

{{#seo: |keywords=kawasaki, 1200, zg1200, voyager, XII specs, history, review, video, images |description=Kawasaki Voyager 1200 (Voyager XII): history, specifications, images, videos, manuals. }} Class: tourer

Production: 1986-2003

Also called: Kawasaki Voyager 1200, Kawasaki Voyager XII

Predecessor: Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager XIII

• 2 Specifications
• 6 References

History [ edit | edit source ]

Specifications [ edit | edit source ].

Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII: specs.

Images [ edit | edit source ]

Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII: images, gallery.

Videos [ edit | edit source ]

Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII: video.

Manuals [ edit | edit source ]

Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII: manuals, parts, microfiches.

• Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager: Service Manual, 1986
• Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager: Parts Catalog

References [ edit | edit source ]

• ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 2019 Western Power Sports Catalog . Western Power Sports . 2019.  
• Kawasaki motorcycles

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Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII (1986-88) technical specifications

Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII is produced in 1986-88. Engine is Four stroke transverse four cylinder. DOHC, 4 valve per cylinder, displacement 1196 cc / 72.9 cu-in , produces power 97 hp / 72.3 kW @ 7000 rpm and 11.0 kgf-m / 79.5 lb-ft @ 5000 rpm. Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII weighs 317 kg / 698.9 lbs. Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII has 1 photos.

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Kawasaki Voyager Xii

Kawasaki Voyager Xii May 1 1989

Kawasaki Voyager XII

CYCLE WORLD TEST

The smallest giant

MONUMENTAL WORDS OF INSIGHT SOMETIMES come at odd times and places. In this instance, it was at a filling station in the middle of the Mojave Desert. The speaker was looking at a road map, trying to figure the best way back to Los Angeles without getting lost, then he looked up and a totally unrelated thought struck him. "This might be the only Japanese bike to be less complicated than the model it replaced." The speaker was Feature Editor Jon Thompson, the bike was the Kawasaki Voyager XII, and the words were indisputably true.

Back in the early Eighties, Kawasaki had no idea what to do with the all-but-useless six-cylinder monsterbike it had developed. At the time, the only place that immense size seemed to be acceptable was the touring market. Fine. That's where the big 1300 went. In subsequent years, the Six was the subject of more size jokes than William “The Refrigerator” Perry.

Then along came 1986 and the Kawasaki Voyager XII. The 1200 was everything the 1 300 wasn't—namely small,> at least for a touring bike. And now. the 1989 1200. which is basically unchanged from the original model, is the only touring bike that Kawasaki officially offers, even though hardcore mass addicts can still find the discontinued Six at some dealers.

What's most interesting about the Voyager XII is that even though it has two less cylinders, even though it weighs 150 pounds less, and even though it has half the cubic stuff that the 1300 had, it seems to give away nothing. In fact, the 1 200’s engine is noticeably stronger than the I 300's. It produces more bottom-end power and revs out to a healthy mid-range. Both motors have a zippy, race-car exhaust note, but on the big Six, the engine always sounded like it was working way too hard. The XII has a lope-along mode that’s much more relaxing. And in that mode, engine vibration is all but unnoticeable. Oh. you can tell a slight difference between acceleration and coasting with the clutch pulled in. but you have to think about it some. The Voyager is still about as smooth as motorcycles get.

And the all-important list of touring items is about as long as you need. No matter how far you lean towards materialism, chances are you'll be satisfied by the XII. It has all the right stuff: an ÄM/FM cassette deck; an excellent cruise-control system; passenger speakers and controls for the stereo; píenty of storage. What it doesn't have is a decent tool kit—the one in a Honda Gold Wing, as poor as it is. puts the Kawasaki's to shame. It also doesn't have an onboard compressor for the suspension, or for any kind of inflatable seat-comfort-enhancing device. That, it could use. The XII's seat is thin and uncharacteristically low-ball—out of place on a top-of-the-line luxury tourer.

But then the seat on the old 1 300 was really never anything to get excited about, either. That's about the only thing the two have in common —Kawasaki really did succeed in its goal of making the 1200 as much unlike the 1300 as possible. With that goal in mind, it's easy to understand much about the 1 200. Kawasaki went overboard trying to make it small and maneuverable to compensate for the Six's problems. And it is the smallest, best-handling of the big touring bikes. Turning it requires virtually no effort at all—quite a change from the freight-train-like Six. In fact, cornering is so easy that you find yourself scraping footpegs w ithout really trying.

Conversely, holding the XII straight on a long, curveless freeway requires a little more concentration than it does on other big touring bikes. Just as soon as your thoughts start to wander and riding the bike becomes the secondmost-important thing on your mind, the bike takes the opportunity to make slow, lazy weaves in the lane.

While we're griping, we might as well mention the fairing. It offers protection that is merely OK compared to most of the others on the market. Basically, too much air finds its way around the fairing, despite the addition of small w'inglets on the outside edges of the fairing, a modification first made to the 1987-model XII.

It’s interesting to note that in Cycle Worlds June, 1 986, touring bike comparison test, we complained about virtually all the same things: the thinly padded seat, the slight weaving and the fairing’s air spill-over. In fact, Kawasaki has made only three major changes to the Voyager XII since then: the addition of passenger speakers, cruise control and the change to a champagne color. That's a shame. > because with the addition of a better fairing and seat, plus improved stability, the Voyager could lay claim to being the best touring bike in the country.

Instead, the Voyager now sits at the top of a much smaller nitch. With the Honda Gold Wing taking the six-cylinder approach, the Kawasaki is left as the smallest and lightest of the heavyweights. It’s also the cheapest—by over $1000. Compared to the old 1300, the XI1 goes to show you that sometimes you can make your best progress by taking a few steps back. Compared with some of the other more-finished tourers, though, it’s still a few steps behind. 0

SPECIFICATIONS

VOYAGER XII

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Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII 1995 Reviews

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The Blue Ridge ParkWay is gorgeous in summer. So why not go? You’ll want to, when there’s a Kawasaki Voyager® XII waiting in the garage. So pack the top-loading saddlebags and trunk. Then start up the 1,196cc In-Line Four DOHC engine, settle in behind the aerodynamic fairing and let dual gear-driven engine balancers and fully adjustable suspension provide an incredibly smooth ride. And head the Voyager XII toward the ParkWay’s 469 miles of motorcycling paradise.

Long, relaxing days in the saddle are what the Kawasaki Voyager® XII motorcycle was built for. This machine lays claim to all of the features of a luxury tourer, from its spacious saddlebags and large rear trunk to its massive full fairing with wide windshield and deeply cushioned seat that's good for all-day cruising comfort. Passengers also benefit from an equally comfortable seating position, with grab rails, their own floorboards and an adjustable backrest. Truly, the Voyager pampers all of its riders.

- With standard features like electronic cruise control and a high-quality 4-speaker, AM-FM cassette stereo with dual remote controls, this land is your land to enjoy. - The extra strong Voyager XII powerplant delivers dependable touring power for effortless over- taking or hauling heavy loads up high-altitude mountain passes. - Dual integrated balancers plus rubberized engine mounts make the massive 1,196cc DOHC In-Line Four cylinder engine purr along smoothly. - Meticulous attention to keeping maintenance chores to a minimum: Reliable vacuum-advance electronic ignition. Automatic cam chain adjuster. Hydraulically controlled automatic valve lash adjusters. - Clean, quiet shaft final drive. - Making the Voyager fit you is easy: Air-adjustable front and rear suspension. Individually adjustable rider’s seat. Adjustable passenger backrest. Adjustable windshield. Adjustable handlebars. - Delivering extended touring range from the 6.1-gallon fuel tank is an ‘overdrive’ top gear. - The full coverage fairing knifes through the air and leaves both the rider and passenger in a cocoon of calm and quiet. - Luggage capacity is one of the Voyager’s strong points: The dual top-loading saddlebags complement the huge trunk. - The specially designed, dual-lever center-stand makes parking as easy as one, two...

Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager: review, history, specs

Class: tourer

Production: 1983-1988

Also called: Kawasaki Voyager 1300, Kawasaki Voyager XIII

Related: Kawasaki KZ1300

Successor: Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager

Specifications

Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager: specs.

Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager: images, gallery.

Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager: video.

Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager: manuals, parts, microfiches.

• Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager: Owners Manual
• Kawasaki KZ1300: Service Manual

Brief History Of The Kawasaki Voyager - One Of The First Japanese Touring Bikes

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Before touring bikes became a thing, there were several aftermarket companies that made front fairings and hard cases. Most of the bikes fitted with those "accessories" looked like something out of a sci-fi movie. With odd angles and boxy designs, these were not great-looking bikes. The manufacturers took notice, though, and thankfully came up with their own more appealing designs. Most had minimal plastics, and you could still see the entire engine.

Honda started with the Silver Wing, which later grew into the ever-popular Gold Wing series . Yamaha had the Venture , and Suzuki’s attempt was the GS1100GK, which simply looked like a GS1100 with fairing and hard cases installed (because that is literally all it was). The Gold Wing and Voyager continued with great success and evolved into the touring bikes we know and love today. This is the history of the Kawasaki Voyager and how it went from an unusual in-line six to a modern V-twin today.

Related: 10 Reasons The Honda Gold Wing Needs To Be In Your Garage

The Kawasaki Voyager Started Life As A Big Six

Kawasaki went big with a 1286cc in-line six-cylinder engine which was equipped with digital fuel injection in 1984. That’s right,1984! The early voyager weighed in at 652 pounds and made 130 horsepower. The six-cylinder engine delivered smooth power throughout the rev range and was mated to a six-speed transmission. It also featured shaft drive to get all the power to the rear wheel, which was a skinny 130-90-17 back then. To get the tourer to stop, dual 260mm discs were placed up front and a 250mm disc in the rear. Most cruisers at that time still featured drum brakes in the rear. The ride was comfortable on long rides with 41mm equalized air forks at the front and dual rear shocks at the rear.

Back To An Inline-Four

In 1986, Kawasaki developed an inline-4 1196cc engine that produced 97 horsepower on a new, slightly heavier frame at 698 pounds. With less power and more weight, you would think that would be an issue. This is not the case. The lighter engine allowed the engineers to upgrade the frame design, suspension, and electronics and give it a unique look that lasted until production stopped in 2003. The engine also had hydraulic lifters for the valves, so no adjustment was ever needed. That was a big selling point; other models pretty much all needed adjustment at the time.

The downside was that they dropped the EFI and went with 30mm CVK carbs. In retrospect, they only gave problems when the bike sat for way too long (like any vehicle with a carb). They dropped sixth gear and opted for a 5-speed transmission, but they kept the shaft drive and went with a slightly wider rear tire (150-90-15).

Related: Fun Facts That You Should Know About The Kawasaki Versys 650

Why Change A Good Thing

The 86 model was designated the ZG1200A-1 model code, but the 87 model had some notable changes made to it, so they changed the designation to ZG1200B-1. It came with an MSRP of over $8,000. That design remained unchanged for seventeen years until the unit ZG1200B-17 was dropped from the lineup. It was one of the fastest tourers, had sturdy air-adjustable suspension, a tape player, and even CB radio were options. While the design was seriously dated by the 90s, Kawasaki didn’t see the need to change anything. Any changes would have made it more expensive, and at the time, units were selling out. So no there was no need to change the seemingly popular design. The Voyager XII had a cult following while the Gold Wing grew and along with more updates. The Kawasaki was still a lot cheaper, though, being almost $4,000 cheaper compared to other models in 2003 at $12,299.

The End Of The Kawasaki Voyager

For five years, Kawasaki had nothing in the touring market while the Gold Wing and Harley-Davidson models flourished. In 2009 Kawasaki released an all-new design developed from the ground up. The Vulcan 1700 Voyager was Kawasaki’s first V-Twin touring motorcycle ever. The big cruiser has a 1700cc fuel-injected engine that pumps out 73 horsepower . That is less than the Voyager XII, and at 895 pounds, it is also 197 pounds heavier. The rider won't feel that weight when they twist the throttle and the engine rumbles in response. It is most at home going straight at highway speeds, which is important for a touring bike. With the new Vulcan Voyager, the name will live on.

Related: 10 Reasons Why The Kawasaki Vulcan 1700 Voyager Is Criminally Underrated

The Latest Voyager

The 2023 Vulcan 1700 Voyager retails for $19,299. For fifteen years, it remained largely unchanged, with minor improvements in function, looks, and safety. With a wide 130 tire up front and a 170 in rear combined with 300mm disc for stopping power. The Voyager is a well-balanced touring bike with large 45mm forks that soak up the bumps far better than the old bike. Riding two up is not a problem, and as always, the passenger seat is well-thought-out. The new Voyager has some of the best electronics and is one of the most customizable bikes on the market with a big aftermarket. This model is in its fifteenth year now and will most likely surpass the seventeen-year mark of the original Voyager XII. The voyage is the most important part of riding to a destination, and it seems the Kawasaki Voyager will see many more destinations.

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How to Use the Voyager XII Center Stand

Color Codes & Colors for Motorcycles (Color-rite site)

Discharging Battery

Easier Battery Level Checking

Cassette Tapes Unwinding

Motorcycle Versus Auto Oils '94 M/C Consumer News

OEM Fuel Pump Point Reconditioning

Alternative Fuel Pump (2)

Sagging Rearview Mirrors

Alternate Way to Repair Sagging Mirrors

Broken Rear Speaker Mounts (Temp/Emergency Fix)

Broken Rear Speaker Mounts (More Permanent Fix)

Continental Tire Company Tips

Tire Safety

Winterizing Your Voyager

Alternator Rubber Dampener Inspection

CB/Radio Display Does Not Operate Correctly

Clarion Radio & CB Service Procedure

Alternate Voyager Radio & CB Service

Disconnecting Battery Sensor

Aftermarket Horn relay and wiring kit (Using Fiamm Freeway Blasters)

Intermittent headlight, gauges, other.

Brake Light Switches

Removing Voyager XII Radio (pdf file)

Typical Relay Layout

Relay Common Wiring

Changing the Spark Plugs

Temperature Gauge Fix

Air Filter Alternative

Balancer Gear Backlash

Carburetor Drain Screw and Idle Jet Locations

Carburetor Rebuild 101- Part 1 - Disassembly and Rebuild By Bill Overton

Carburetor Rebuild 101- Part 2 - Removal/ Installation of Carburetors By Bill Overton

Carburetor Rebuild 101- Part 3 - Synchronization of Carburetors By Bill Overton

Carburetor Remove & Install- Additional Items & Tips By Bruce Kauffman!

Carb - Enrichening the Needle Jet By Bruce Kauffman!

Carb - Adjusting the Pilot Jet By Bruce Kauffman!

Carb - Float Valve Replacement By Bruce Kauffman!

Recall: Clutch Back Torque Limiter (November 1999)

Starter Chain/Igniter

Oil Drain Plugs and Oil Filter Cover Locations 

Brakes- Spongy

Front Fork Oil

Installing Progressive Fork Springs

Kuryakyn Grip Install

Sticking, Dragging or Moaning Front Brake

Speedometer Error

SuperBrace Installation

Final Drive Vent Location

Sticking,  Dragging, or moaning Rear Brake (same as for Front Brake)

Rear Tire Change

Instrument Panel Light Dimmer Switch Thanks to Bruce Kaufman!

Rear Top Trunk Lens Paint Removal & Addl. Lighting Thanks to Bruce Kaufman!

Accents - Fairing and Saddlebags

Armrests- Passenger

Chrome Caliper Covers (Thanks to Gary Breeden)

Clarion/Kawasaki OEM CB Installation (Thanks to Bill Overton)

Drivers Backrest

Disc Cover Front

Fender Extension Front

Fender Extension Rear

Fender Trim Front w/light

Floorboard Cover Plates

Floorboards-Driver

Fork Leg Lights

License Plate Panel

Light Bar- Mount

Lighted Switch Assy.

Markland Hitch Installation Submitted by Bill Overton

Mudflap- Rear w/light

Radiator Dress-Up (Economical )

Installing Rivco© Air Horns

Rear View Mirror Chrome Visor Trim Submitted by Richard Miller

Saddlebag Lid Trim Rails

Saddlebag Rails

Saddlebag Trim Rails

Splash Guards

Trunk Lid Trim Rails

Trunk Pouch- Right

Trunk Rails

Trunk Rails Trim Light Submitted by Eugene Shields

Vent Accents- Fairing

Y-Cord Kawasaki/Clarion (will also work for J&M- diagram incl.)

Note: In order to view most of these files, you must have Adobe Acrobat Reader installed on your computer- don't have it?

Keeping Music Tapes Tight From AVA Member Archives By Ed Cones

     After a short while, cassette tapes will "unwind" in the Voyager tape storage compartment and have to be rewound before you play them or they could get fowled in the tape player. Ed submitted two methods for keeping his tapes tight enough to play without having to re-wind them after storage before playing.       "I've used foam earplugs in my tapes since I got the bike. They work well, Just roll 'em down like you're at the shooting range except stick  them in the tape." He also experimented during a long cycle trip and came up with the following: "If the tape is rewound completely or almost completely, looking at them from the rear of the bike, the large spool turns clockwise. So, I rewind my tapes before removing them from the player and place them in the storage compartment with the full spool down and the open side of the tape to the right or center of the bike. The clockwise movement of the large spool keeps them tight. This has worked great on my bike for 10,000 miles now."

Recall Notice Clutch Back Torque Limiter Warning Dated November 1999

     "Kawasaki Motors Corp., USA has determined that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in 1999 and 2000 model Ninja ZX-7R, Concours, and Voyager XII motorcycles. On eligible units, the back torque limiter in the clutch may malfunction and allow the clutch to slip, or not re-engage after a shift. This sudden non-engagement of the clutch might cause the rider to lose control of the vehicle, possibly resulting in an accident and personal injury."      This notice was probably delivered to all owners for the years and models mentioned above, but anyone purchasing a used cycle should check to verify that this safety defect was corrected. Owners previously unaware of the defect should contact the nearest Kawasaki dealer for further details.

Battery Sensor From the AVA Archives

     It seems as though quite a few times the question has been raised on how to disable the battery sensor on the VII so the battery light stays out. Some basic observations for the unknowing should first be considered:

The battery lights purpose is to indicate that the battery electrolyte or water level is low in the battery. This is handy so you don't need to check the level so many times during the riding season since it's not the quickest thing to do.

The battery light has nothing to do with the quality or life left of the battery, other than letting you know the water level is low. If the water level in a battery is left low, it will cause sulfation in the battery cells and lead to pre-mature battery failure.

Most manufacturers make at least two versions of a battery that will work for the Voyagers, one with, and one without the battery sensor. Some of the newest batteries such as the gel batteries, or a maintenance free battery, prevents you from adding water by design. If you would like the convenience of the battery sensor and want to use the standard non-maintenance free batteries, then buy the ones with a sensor. If you get a maintenance free battery, then you don't need to worry about that option and will probably just pay a higher price for the battery.

     So after you decide which battery you would like to use, and have decided on a gel, maintenance free, or simply one without a sensor hookup, then you probably will want to disable the sensor by simply connecting the sensor lead to a +12 volt source. This can be done by either using one of the spare leads under the fairing, or simply connecting it to the +12 volt terminal of your battery. Others have suggested to hook a 100 ohm resistor in line with the original wire going to the battery and terminate it at the positive battery terminal.

Changing the XII Spark Plugs By Ed Cones from AVA Archives

     Changing out or cleaning the spark plugs on the Voyager XII is not a slam dunk, easy job. It can be made easier, however, if the battery and battery tray are removed. The Voyager XII comes with a tool pack that contains a spark plug tool. Using the tool with an extension and a pair of long needle nose pliers to reach the plug wire caps makes the job a bit easier.      Please remember to clear the plug area with air pressure before removing the plugs. Each of the plug locations will collect bits of stone, dried bugs, and other debris. It must be cleared in order that the contaminants do not fall into the spark plug hole when the plugs are removed.

Temperature Gauge Fix From AVA Archives

     It has been reported that several have had problems with the Voyager XII water temperature gauge reading either low or not at all. It has been traced to an inadequate ground. The fix for this involves checking the grounding for this gauge. You can make a small ground wire to run from a thermostat housing (which contains the temperature sender) bolt up to a 6mm bolt in the frame just behind the steering head, or another good grounding point.

Intermittent Electrical Problem (headlight, gauges, brake and tail) From the AVA Archives By Denny Zion

Problem: Occasional loss of headlight, fuel and temperature gauge readings, as well as tachometer, brake and tail lights. Interruptions usually occur periodically. Loss could become more numerous as time goes on. Fuses appear or check out OK. Solution : More times than not, a problem exists with the large connector just after the fuse block. Possibly caused by excess water or dampness otherwise getting into this connection. The electrical connection within this connector (plug) becomes corroded to the point that it makes intermittent contact with it's opposite pin that powers these items. Disconnect this plug and thoroughly clean all the pins on both sides of the connector. A good electrical cleaner should do the trick (such as electrical contact cleaner at a electronics store, or comparable). After all contacts or pins are cleaned, a good application of electrical anti-corrosive grease (usually for aluminum cable- available at electrical contractor stores) should prevent this from happening again.

Brake Light Switches From the AVA Archives By BJ Reynolds

Problem: The front or rear brake switch fails to activate the brake light when the lever or foot brake is applied. Solution: Loose spade connector(s) may be the problem. A slight crimping of the connectors should take care of the problem. It is suggested that you frequently check both the lever and foot brakes to make sure they are activating the brake lights as they should.

Clarion Radio or CB Service Procedure

Clarion no longer services the Voyager XII radios or CB's.

However, there are still two outlets where service can still be obtained at this time. The first outlet we recommend is service and modifications provided by Peter Franchi. He can be contacted through his email by clicking here. He can also be contacted through his username (suzib6sw) on the AVA Message and Information forum here .

The other source of service is noted below.

Sierra Electronics does repair the radios and CB's from Voyagers XII's!

As of 2/17/09, they indicated that they had a 2-week turnaround from date of receipt of the radio or CB.  The typical cost for a repair on either component is $100.  When you send it in, they will go through it and when they have a firm price, they will contact you for a credit card to pay for the repairs.  If there is anything excessive, they will let you know BEFORE doing the work.

Their contact information is:

  Sierra Electronics   2080 Experiment Farm Road, Troy, OH  45373   800-338-6938  /  937-335-8939

  [email protected]

For more details on packaging the radio or to confirm turnaround time, contact them directly.

Easier Battery Level Checking By Chuck Tenwick From AVA Archives

Problem: Finding an easier way to check battery electrolyte level without having to remove battery to see level lines and associated having to disconnect battery leads etc. to do so. Solution: The normal level checking lines which are on the front of the battery are not easily read since they face the front of the motorcycle, therefore, Chuck suggests that the next time you have your battery out, to draw a line on the back side of the battery with a magic marker indicating where the full level line is for the electrolyte solution. This way, a quick look with the dummy tank off is all that is needed to know where your level is in the battery. He also mentions that he wads up a small piece of paper to stuff under the nuts for the terminal bolts. The wads act as springs to hold the nuts in place when starting the terminal bolts.

Broken Rear Speaker Mounts- Temporary/Emergency Fix By Tommy James From the AVA Archives

     If the problem is the metal plate separating from the rubber bushing, place a small drop of super glue type adhesive between the metal plate and rubber bushing. This fix will work just fine without any problems. Make sure the metal plate and mating surface of rubber bushing is clean- even of previously used super glue if broke before, then apply glue and lower bushing onto it. Weight of speaker should hold it firmly enough until cured. Allow at least several minutes before riding off to allow sufficient cure. Also, avoid any oversize packed touring bags placed on the luggage rack that may tend to spread apart the speakers.- Gary, Webmaster

Broken Rear Speaker Mounts- Permanent Fix Original Solution By Bob Hughes Rewritten and Photos added By Gary Schill and Lori Norris

Using Bob Hughes' original article for fixing broken speaker mounts more permanently, we have expanded the instructions and included photos.  Bob reports that this repair has proven successful for the last 60,000 miles and 6 years of terrible Michigan roads around the Detroit area.  

Another Alternative Fuel Pump Suggestion By David Randall

In case you cannot get the fuel pump that Jeff talks about above, NAPA does have an electric fuel pump that will work. It is part number 610-1051, Posi-Flo model. It comes with an add on filter that goes between tank and pump, and all the fittings, but not any extra fuel line. You will need a little extra to to locate the Voyager original fuel filter and to add a little between pump and tank. This pump is set 1.5-4 PSI two wire design, neat and small, will mount on the regular mounting bracket that the Voyager pump is now on (with just a little rigging). It also will let you relocate the fuel filter so you can change it easier. Instead of using the long fuel line adapter that goes in the outlet end, use an elbow first, then, the adapter. Use the info Jeff provides about wiring the pump. I used the red hot wire and ground Jeff talks about, but did not cut the original plug off. Be sure to mount the back as far as you can on the original mount so the rear brake reservoir will remount with no trouble. AFter installing the pump and before putting everything back in place, I checked to make sure that everything would fit back i place just like factory. Turn the key on, wait just a minute to let it prime up. Instant start and very little gas fumes. Down the street and back, using all the throttle I could, yielded very good throttle response and very smooth running at last. Total cost for pump and supplies are $60.00 (as of 11/18/07), much better than the OEM at $175 for a new pump.

Discharging Battery By Gary Schill

Problem: The battery seems to discharge over about a 2 to 3 week period just sitting in the garage until it won't start the motorcycle. "It seemed OK when I first parked it, but a few weeks later, it wouldn't turn the bike over". Solution: On the Voyagers, there is a constant drain on the battery even when sitting idle, this is because the memory in the radio, clock, and if so equipped, the CB take a little electric to maintain their settings. Even if your battery is fully charged when you park your bike for a extended idle time without riding much, the battery can easily become discharged enough to not start your machine in a couple or so weeks. This is normal. This constant discharge and then charging when you do ride your bike can cause sulfation of the battery plates, and eventually or prematurely your battery will die. To best combat this sulfation of the battery plates and keep your machine ready to ride, you should invest in a "smart" battery charger. The two most well known brands are the Battery Tender and the Battery Minder, although there are other brands manufactured. You can simply hook up the usually provided ring terminal battery cables to your bikes battery, and when you park your bike for any amount of time, just plug it in to the battery charger. You can leave the charger connected indefinitely until you are ready to ride again, then just disconnect the polarized connector, and you'll have a fully charged battery ready to go. The charger goes to maintenance or standby mode until the battery needs a charge to keep in top condition. This reduces drastically the sulfation problem, and you always have a fully charged battery ready to ride.

Starter Chain/Igniter By Charlie Sargent

Problem: The starter chain breaks. Solution: This problem was present in the Voyager XII model years of '86 and '87. It would usually occur when a discharged or failing battery was used to start the machine. If you own an '86 or '87 Voyager XII, it is recommended that you check to be sure you have the updated igniter to prevent this problem, replacement of the starter chain with the updated one may or may not be necessary.  Also, keep your battery (all year Voyagers too) fully charged and in good condition. The following information was provided by Charlie Sargent who experienced this problem and it's solution first hand- THANKS SARGE!!

"There have been 86's/87's that broke the starter chain tensioner and tossed a chunk of it through the engine cases. A few common traits among all the starter chain failures are, all were '86/87' models, which had the old starter chain (p/n 92057-1205). There was an update to a newer chain (p/n 92057-1276), 1986/1987 had the old-style igniter (p/n 21119-1179), which had problems with over-advancing the ignition timing. The new style igniter is (p/n 21119-1248) you can check which igniter you have by removing the tank cover and check the part number on the igniter box. All machines that experienced failures seemed to have had low batteries that cranked the machine over slowly sometimes and then turn over normal other times. (It put a lot of stress on the starter chain until it failed.)"

Installing Progressive Fork Springs By Gary Schill

OK, you've decided your front fork springs are sacked out, or would like the best performance and ride of the Progressive springs. You might think all you have to do is take the old OEM's out and replace with the Progressive's, but there is a difference in the springs that will require you to change the re-assembly process. The process of changing springs (as well as fork oil) is not all that hard, but is more difficult than changing either one on some other bikes. So here's the process:

The fork springs you need are Progressive Part No. 11-1102 for '87 thru '03, ( 1986 Voyager XII's use Progressive Part No. 11-1122), these are Progressive's numbers, it may be listed under a different part number depending on the dealer or distributors numbering system- check their listing for the Voyager XII. This spring ( Part No. 11-1102) also fits several other machines (some will require a spacer to adapt). Following is the machines that also take this spring:

* Note: 1986 Voyager XII's use different Progressive Springs since the stanchion tube diameter was different in the first year of Voyager XII production.

Process of spring installation:

Remove front brake calipers, speedometer cable from front wheel receiver.

Release all air from front suspension.

Remove front wheel, fork brace, and front fender.

Loosen top triple clamp bolt on one of the forks.

Completely remove the lowest bolt on the bottom triple clamp on the same fork with a wrench (box or open end).

Loosen the top bolt of the bottom triple clamp.

While holding the connecting pipe collar up, rotate the fork tube and begin lowering it in the triple clamps. (See photo 1)

Before you can remove the fork tube completely from the bottom triple clamp, you must first remove the retaining ring ( D in the photo), on the fork tube upper. This retaining ring will become visible after you lower the fork tube from the top triple clamp. You can remove it by using a slot screwdriver or other tool to expand the ring and lift it off the top of the upper fork tube- be careful you do not bend it.

After you remove this retaining ring, remove the fork tube from the motorcycle.

Remove the top black plastic fork tube cap.

Now the tricky part, it's best to have a vise and a friend to help you with this one, but can be done by yourself with a little patience, muscle, (and maybe some colorful "french").

Wrap a rag for good cushioning around the upper fork tube 3 or 4 inches from the top, or better yet, use about a 3 or 4 inch wide strip from an old rubber inner tube and long enough to make about 3 wraps around the fork upper tube, and carefully place it in the vise, only tighten the vise enough to securely hold the fork tube from slipping down when pressure is applied to the top plug of the fork tube, not so much as to even begin to collapse the fork tube ( make sure there enough cushioning to prevent any marking on the fork tube and do not over tighten the vise). Test to make sure the fork tube will not slip.

Then by yourself, or with a friend's help, press down on the top plug of the fork tube, and, then remove the retaining ring to allow the top plug to come out of the fork tube. (See photo below) Be careful to gradually release the downward pressure as the top plug will have spring pressure on it.

Remove top plug, oil filter, collar, and fork spring.

Remove fork assy. from the vise, remove the bottom drain plug on the fork assy. lower, and drain the fork oil by pumping the fork tube several times until oil is all out. (Observation: what color is the fork oil? Does it look like well used (black) engine oil? If so, you waited too long to change the fork oil!)

It is suggested that you clean out the fork internals before installing new oil. I did this by using clean paint thinner and continually flushing it until it came out clear (put some in, pump the fork several times, drain- repeat). Do not use gasoline, lacquer thinner, or other strong solvent (example: auto paint thinners).

When you are convinced that you have the fork internals clean, then you are ready for reassembly, make sure you have all of the paint thinner or equivalent drained from the fork.

Fully compress the fork and support it so it stands up straight. Before you install the new fork springs, you must add the required amount of oil. As mentioned under the tech tip "Front Fork Oil", the best way to bring the oil up to the required level for the Voyager is to measure from the top edge of the fork inner tube to the top of the oil level (it should measure 145mm for Progressive Springs, 140 for stock OEM springs). Use some kind of measuring tool or improvise to accomplish this, I used a heavy plastic zip tie, and put a piece of tape 145 mm from the tip of the tie. I lowered the straight zip tie into the fork inner tube till the tape lightly touched the fork tube. I then added oil till the fork oil just showed on the zip tie. Note: Progressive recommends 160mm ± 2mm of oil level. Carl Leo has determined that 145mm air gap works best for Progressive springs in the Voyager XII (1200). I had originally used the 160mm air gap level, and found that it was not enough oil. Use the 145mm air gap measurement .

Now, reinstall the fork assy. into the vise again like before, install the new Progressive springs. Now for the difference between the stock fork springs and the Progressives'. On the Voyager XII's, you DO NOT reinstall the collar or oil filter like it was when using the OEM springs. The Progressive springs are longer than OEMs and do not require these parts. All you'll be installing is the new fork springs followed by the top plug, then the retaining ring.

Now with an assistant's help (preferred), or if doing by yourself, you need to reinstall the top plug, hold the top plug down as before and reinstall the retaining clip.

Now reinstall the fork assy. back onto the motorcycle. After you get it through the bottom triple clamp, reinstall the retaining ring back onto the inner fork tube, See photo 1.

Next, by slightly rotating the inner fork tube back and forth, guide it back up through the Connecting pipe (air equalizing collar) and then up into the upper triple clamp. Tighten all triple clamp bolts. Reinstall black plastic fork tube caps.

Complete steps 4 thru 22 for the other fork assy.

Then reinstall the front fender, fork brace, front tire, speedometer cable, and brake calipers.

Your Done and ready to ride!!

Water Leak By John Stone MTSV

Problem: Water leak on the Voyager XII while in winter storage. This clears up once the riding season starts. The leak comes from one side of the horizontal pipe in front of engine (like a manifold) with two steel lines running into it coupled by a small length of hose with hose fittings on them. There are two possible answers: Solution: 1. Dealer suggests endure the first few leaky experiences into spring and ride it the rest of the summer once the leaks stop. Alternative is to replace seals that dry out in winter, costs about $100.00.   2. This comes from Alex Mistal in Redding CA: Same problem but his leak came from loose hose clamps. Most of the hose clamps can be tightened without removing any plastic, but the ones on the top can only be reached if you remove the false tank, battery, and battery case. Still a job that the average biker should be able to accomplish without too much difficulty.

Protecting Fork Seals By Chuck Hoefflin

  I had some difficulty with the fork seals on one of my BMW's due to hardened bugs that were stuck on the fork tubes and damaged the fork seals. I found a Yamaha sport bike that had a plastic protector that I could adapt. I used that arrangement for the rest of the time I owned the bike. When I bought my Voyager, the same problem exists. The fork tube is exposed. So I modified fork protectors from a Yamaha 4TX-2331G-00 to do the job. For reference, they are 3 5/8" high, plenty to protect the exposed surface of the fork tubes. I had to modify them for clearance around the stock fork brace- a five minute job. Cost: less than $5 per side.

Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII Reviews

2002 kawasaki zg1200 voyager xii from canada.

Best bang for the money

General maintenance.

General Comments:

These old school bikes are bulletproof. Lots of power for 2up, awesomeness on fuel. Nobody wants them for some unknown reason. My wife and I have great pleasure trips, day trips on our 2002. Lots of trunk space and extra in the two saddle bags. 58+mpg. No computer or fuel injection. Great highway bike but no trail bike. Insurance is less as well for a 1200 cc.

You can pick these bikes up for less than $3,000.00 and at the end of the day have a lot of fun and money to spare.

Aaron from Canada.

Would you buy another motorcycle from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 25th December, 2023

1999 Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII from United States of America

I have upgraded the suspension to progressive springs. I haven’t had any issues other than normal maintenance, doesn’t vibrate apart!!

My 99 Voyager is very lightweight and easy to handle. I don’t have tighten things up after riding, it does freeway speeds with ease.

Stereos on these always fail, so it’s not a big deal.

In town I can get over 200 miles from a tank of fuel. I had a 2007 Ultra Classic and I preferred riding this. I like the speed and power and being 65 y.o. It’s lightweight and easy to handle, I got it for $1900. A great bike for the money $$.

Review Date: 11th July, 2023

28th Apr 2024, 10:56

I have 2002 Kawasaki Voyager XII, been looking online, would you know what the steps are for the removal of spark plugs? It looks like the coils are in the way, which I'd like to replace too, with aftermarket, but plugs first to see if it's got a slight misfire. I want use NGK Iridium, not sure yet what's in there, but there are access issues.

2001 Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII from United States of America

Comfortable

Bought this motorcycle cheap, and intended to only keep it for a year, and use it for three trips to Mexico, from California. I've now owned it for 18 months, only did one trip to Mexico. For the last 6 months, I've been using the bike as a full time commuter. The first year of ownership no problems. When I got to the one year mark, is when I began having problems. The oil gasket cracked, and I ended up getting oil in the water pump as well. 2 months after that, the clutch failed. Every plate needed to be replaced. The repairs are costly. Bike is running good now, I'm hoping all of this is out of the way, and I won't have any future problems.

The bike is very comfortable, and a lot more affordable than a Honda Gold Wing, of the same age. The girlfriend is very comfortable on the back, there's plenty of luggage space.

I think the major issue with this bike, is that dealerships here in America, will not service a bike that is over 15 years old. I had to find an independent mechanic that was willing to repair it. Not many of them wanted to touch it as well. Also hard to find parts for this bike as well.

As time goes on, and if there are no other major repairs, I would be happy to give better grades.

Review Date: 2nd October, 2022

2002 Kawasaki ZG1200 Voyager XII from United States of America

If only the idiots at Kawasaki hadn't given up

Radio fuses, carburetor problems due to that d## alcohol fuel gum.

Stiffened front forks, very little else not normal upkeep.

Finally caught the oil drain plug on an obstruction and ripped the filter housing out of the bike. Obvious design flaw that I was never smart enough to put a skid plate over. I really hate myself for that.

Rides great in any circumstance as long as you don't pretend it's a crotch rocket. Decent fuel mileage. Low center of gravity, anyone who calls this top heavy has never ridden any of the other baggers.

I destroyed the motor in my current 02, entirely my fault even though it's a design flaw, I saw it, never got around to putting a skid plate on. I've been shopping all over the map for a newer bike, cause they stop building these in 02, the idiots. It's the best one of all the ones I've ever owned, but there ain't no more. I've looked at every bagger still built, they are all too tall for a short guy, me. They are all called top heavy by the people who own them, I hate that. They all seem to come from the shop with built in flaws. I never owned a BMW, and after looking at the reliability ratings, I'm not going to. Worse than a Harley? How can anything be worse than a Harley? I've come to the conclusion I'm going to put a motor in my 02 and ride on. I hate the thought, it's a horrible job, but I can't find anything I consider a reliable option. Just my opinion, after 55 years of riding.

Review Date: 24th August, 2020

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Voyager XII

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I have an opportunity to purchase a 2002 Voyager XII with 4,700 miles on it. In researching the cycling press reviews a recurring compliant is the tendancy to "wander back and forth" and have a hard time maintaining a straight line. What has been the experience of some of you who own Voyagers in this regard? Is it true? Is it correctable and if so, how? Also, is an intercom standard on all models? I have been unable to find any intercom connections on this bike.  

I've ridden dozens of them and never once has that crossed my mind.  

I own a 2000 voyager. They run great, but the front end does wander a little. You can get a superbrace which supposedly fixes it. The superbrace costs about $100. I love the bike and the way it rides. It is tight in corners and runs straight. The only time it wanders is on very bumpy roads. I have not riden a bike yet that doesn't Basil  

join the voyager forum and we wil help you to get it oke  

My wife and I tour on a 1988 Voyager XII. It doesn't wander. The fork brace would be nice as the forks DO flex a bit in hard corners but the bike doesn't wander in a straight line. I personally would have liked to have taller front and rear tires (they are 16" and 15" respectively) for a better ride as the smaller diameter tires ride a bit harsher over choppy roads than do taller tires... I always liked the 19" / 18" combo but it isn't that much of a problem. The AVA site and links to the Wizard's site from there will provide about as much tech stuff on the Voyager as you can stand.  

DrJ said: I have an opportunity to purchase a 2002 Voyager XII with 4,700 miles on it. In researching the cycling press reviews a recurring compliant is the tendancy to "wander back and forth" and have a hard time maintaining a straight line. What has been the experience of some of you who own Voyagers in this regard? Is it true? Is it correctable and if so, how? Also, is an intercom standard on all models? I have been unable to find any intercom connections on this bike. Click to expand...

First off ,straight line tire tread will make ANY bike wander, go for cross pattern always... Second, airshocks need to be adjusted to load conditions, dah! I have 25yrs experiance on roadbikes, with 40,000 miles on my 2000 Voyager XII alone. Anybody says they can't drive in a streight line on a Voyager needs to stop drinking and driving !!!  

I've owned 2003 and no issues. Note my only bad happening with the bike is the air shocks must be adjusted with correct air pressure. I had it lose air pressure on bumpey road, noted after a stop I started out and found out front end was total mess.... could not maintain control till i placed air in front shocks carry small pump now!! This was a crash happening moment so Voayager riders beware! Air Shocks need to be looked at and maintenance done.  

armrests I have looked all over for armrests for my 2001 voyager with no luck anyone know where I could get some? Thx:smile:  

try OEM Parts Kawasaki Voyager XII (ZG1200-B15) 2001 2001 ZG1200-B15 (QI) KMM.LUMINOUS VINTAGE RED / PEARL LUSTER BEIGE - Cheap Cycle Parts  

armrest thx went on the site didn't see any armrest for the voyager just the wings. Also their is no image when you log on. Was trying to get a set before rolling thunder. I looked on the whole website and couldn't find any. Meatloaf  

Arm rests for the Voyager XII can be done using the Honda GL1200 Arm Rests sold on e-Bay: Passenger Arm Rests Goldwing GL1200 - eBay (item 380316378520 end time Feb-19-11 19:11:48 PST) . They attach using a bolt, just below the passenger seat, along the frame. They are pretty much a universal arm rest -- they can be attached to any bike that has a bolt in the right place... I bought mine, brand new, after-market accessory, for around $130. I used them on my 1979 Honda CB750K, first, then I moved them to my 1993 Voyager, when I bought it as my main touring machine. They are fully adjustable, except for vertically. I bolted them onto my Voyager, and they are at the perfect height. Wouldn't ride without them. Cheers!  

I test rode one a 2002 Voyager II priced at $4k (32k miles) and the noisy transmission turned me off. Kawasaki uses straight cut gears that are more durable and noisier. They are a great used motorcycle value for sure. Afterwards i test rode a 2006 Honda Goldwing with only 8k miles. There was nothing I did not like about that Goldwing. But, the dealer was asking $17,900 for it. The Goldwing has a much lower center of gravity than the Voyager and is easier to handle around town.  

I ride a 1999 Voyager. I had a set of Dunlop tires on it that made the ride fell like mush. I upgraded to Contenental's with stiffer sidewall and it made a big diffrence, (Road rain groves are less noticable). Also added a Superbrace. I watch the air pressure in the shocks but it doesent need adjusting very often. On my trip down The Dragon Run I was quit impressed with the handling, Fully loaded and two up. This Spring I will replace the fork oil, Seems to be some confusion on the proper amount to have in the forks, but I will sort that out. All and All very happy with this bike. 1/3 the price of a Wing.  

The proper amount of oil in Voyager XII forks is 335 cc per leg, and 15w or 20w fork oil. This info was told to me by the service manager at my kaw dealership.  

My '95 VII does wonder a bit. It tends to follow the contour of the surface I am riding it on, but I just go with the flow. Of course, it has 80,000 miles on it and I am running a B.F. Goodrich GT Radial on the back and it has 30,000 miles on it. It really wonders when I bolt the sidecar to it. I have a new pair of E3's out in the shop which I will be putting on in the very near future. That might improve the handling a bit. It might need wheel and steering head bearings. I almost bought a GL1500 this week, but I wasn't fast enough. Oh well, I still have my $6000 and I don't think the VII will leave me stranded for at least another 50,000 miles.  

I have owned 2 Voyager 12s. Tire tread will make for a slight wander when driving straight. Highway tread will end that problem. The noisey transmision is a simple adjustment ( I remember living with the whine for a complete 10,000 mile trip). The Voyager 12 is one of the lightest full up cruisers and you must adjust rear shocks when loading it down. That said if traveling any stretches of dirt or gravel road I preferred it by far over my GW.  

You may also want to try putting progressive springs in front shocks.  

i have 2001 voyager 28,000 miles getting noise, sounds like from final drive anybody have similar condition?  

DrJ said: I have an opportunity to purchase a 2002 Voyager XII with 4,700 miles on it. In researching the cycling press reviews a recurring compliant is the tendency to "wander back and forth" and have a hard time maintaining a straight line. What has been the experience of some of you who own Voyagers in this regard? Is it true? Is it correctable and if so, how? Also, is an intercom standard on all models? I have been unable to find any intercom connections on this bike. Click to expand...

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