tourist information uzes

Between Alès, Nimes and Avignon, the discreet but oh so elegant town of Uzes has preserved in its centre much evidence of its rich past.

Encircled by the Boulevard Gambetta, the Medieval town is a maze of small streets and shaded squares lined with 17th and 18th century private mansions.

Under the arcades of the Place aux Herbes and along the neighbouring streets a market takes places every Saturday whose reputation has for a long time stretched beyond the region. You will find a profusion of regional products, in the warm and colourful atmosphere of Provencal markets.

Just steps from the Place aux Herbes, the medieval garden, a little haven of peace, presents 450 varieties of edible and culinary, ornamental and medicinal plants that illustrate their importance in everyday life in the Middle Ages. There, you can admire works of contemporary art and climb the 100 steps of the King's Tower to enjoy striking views over Uzès.

The Duchy of Uzès designates a whole ensemble of monuments, property of the Crussol family of Uzès. History buffs will want to visit the Castle and isee ts gothic chapel with superb stained-glass windows, the cellar, some of the apartments with their furnishings dating from the reigns of Louis XIII to Louis XVI, the woodwork, chandeliers, tapestries and paintings. And if you have the energy, climb to the top of the Bermonde Tower, a primitive keep from the 11th century that also offers fine views over the town.

The Town Hall dates from the 18th century. Its southern façade is ornamented with pilasters and the inner courtyard is the venue for concerts in summer.

On the square Place de l'Evêché, the neo-Romanesque Saint-Théodorit Cathedral is quite interesting; it was added in 1870 because the previous cathedral was considered too poor. The interior houses the relics of Saint-Firmin and another treasure: the organ case framed by panels of painted wood. One of the oldest in the country, this case dates from 1670.

The Uzès Tower is very pretty and the more discreet Fenestrelle Tower, another symbol of Uzès, is the sole example in France of a cylindrical bell tower. It is the only remaining vestige of the original romanesque cathedral of Saint-Théodorit, destroyed in 1563 by the Protestants. The esplanade offers beautiful views over the surrounding countryside.

Elegant and austere, the former Bishop's Palace today houses the tribunal and the Georges Borias Museum of which the collections retrace the history of Uzès from prehistoric times to the present.

A stone's throw from the town centre, the valley of the Eure provides for a nice and relaxing moment in a verdant setting with picnic areas, a fitness trail, a playground and a soccer field. You will see there the ruins of the draining basin for the Roman aqueduct that supplied water to the city of Nîmes.

Horse lovers might want to visit the National Stud Farm of Uzès and lovers of sweets could head to the HARIBO candy museum.

View over Uzès from the keep of the Bermonde Tower

The entrance to the duke's palace of Uzès and the enamelled roof tiles of the gothic chapel

The duke's palace of Uzès, Renaissance façade of the main building of the castle

Promenade at the top of the Bermonde Tower in Uzès

The market on the Place aux Herbes in Uzès

Doors of private mansions in Uzès: 1 Rue St Etienne and Place aux Herbes

The Saint Théodorit Cathedral and Fenestelle Tower in Uzès

Picturesque shops in the streets of Uzès

Art of living

Gastronomy, markets of Provence, regional products, Christmas traditions, celebrities of Provence....

An Insider’s Guide to the Best Things to do in Uzès

By: Author Sophie Nadeau

Posted on Last updated: 6th March 2024

Categories France

Last Updated on 6th March 2024 by Sophie Nadeau

Medieval, delightful, and boasting countless cobbled lanes: the city of Uzès is a must-see on any trip to Southern France. Famed for its Middle Ages Bell Tower and picture perfect market square, visitors can’t go wrong by dedicating at least a few hours to exploring the local area. Here’s your guide to the best things to do in Uzès , as well as what to know before you go.

A history of Uzès

Where is uzès, how long do you need in uzès, place aux herbes, wander around the town, medieval gardens, duke’s castle, uzès cathedral, pont du gard, practical information, where to stay in uzès.

Uzès began life as a fortified Roman oppidum, i.e. town, and was founded as early as the 2nd Century BCE. Directly to the North of the town, there was another settlement by the name of Ucetia, which was all but lost and forgotten to the annals of time and was only rediscovered recently.

From the day 8th-century, town was a bishopric under the Archbishop of Narbonne . During the Middle Ages, the town’s strategic position meant that it was important in the trades of silk, liquorice, and linen. It was at this time that the town’s wealth grew and many medieval buildings can still be spied around Uzès to this day.

One particular curiosity of the town is that there has been a Duke since 1088, when there was the first attestation of f seigneur d’Uzès. There’s still a Duke of the town to this day and, when he is home, a flag is raised to full mast outside of his residence.

The little town of Uzès, population 8500, is located in the department of Gard in Occitania. Located just West to the region of Provence , nearby towns of note include Nîmes (famed for its well-preserved Roman monuments) and Avignon (famed for its crumbling bridge).

The settlement is also situated close to the Pont du Gard, a 1st-Century CE Roman aqueduct that is still almost perfectly preserved to this day. And while Uzès may not technically be in Provence, it retains the ambiance, shuttered houses, and buttery stone architecture that is all too common in the region.

Since the historic centre of Uzès is pretty small and all of the attractions are grouped fairly close to one another, meaning that you can walk between each of them, you only really need an afternoon to discover everything around town.

We personally went for lunch and then spent a couple of others meandering the streets and admiring the historical attractions. I loved all of the little galleries scattered across town and even bought a small oil pastel of the lavender fields to bring home with me as a souvenir!

Best things to do in Uzès

Truth be told, one of the simplest charms of Uzès is to sit in one of the many (albeit it a little touristic) cafés on the central square of Place aux Herbes and watch the world go by. We personally enjoyed a lunch at Les Terroirs – Restaurant Uzès and found that they had several vegetarian and vegan options on the menu.

As well as a historic central fountain, several sides of the square are lined with covered arcades that provide a welcome respite from the hot summer sun. A market is held in the square every Wednesday morning and all day on Saturday.

There are several unique shops on the fringes of the central square, including a rather delightful bookshop by the name of Librairie de la place aux herbes.

Like many towns in rural France, much of the city centre is pedestrianised and you can’t drive a car through the little cobbled lanes. Be sure to wear comfortable footwear and avoid high heels as they don’t mix well with cobblestones.

You can pick up a free map in the tourist office (16 Pl. Albert 1er, 30700 Uzès) which will give you a suggested walking route of the town. Otherwise, simply stroll around and soak up the architectural marvels that the town can reveal to you.

You won’t easily lose track of where you are as there is a large boulevard which loops its way around the historic city centre, making it impossible to easily get lost. Highlights you should be sure to watch out for when wandering around the town include the 18th-century town hall and the old mint (Ancien Hôtel des Monnaies).

Hands down, the best thing to do in Uzès is to head to the medieval gardens, which are accessed via rue Port Royal. The medieval garden is located just below a Benedictine Abbey which dates back to the 10th-century and the garden was actually only created in 2015.

As well as a beautiful garden which is laid out in a medieval style and is best-viewed in the early summer, the grounds are flanked by the 12th century Tour de l’Evèque and the 13th century Tour du Roi.

Tour de l’Evèque was actually used as a prison during the Middle Ages and visitors can still see centuries old grafitti from those who were once incarcerated within its walls. Visitors who climb to the very top of the Tour de Roi will be rewarded with breathtaking views of the town and beyond.

Standing tall and proud over the rest of the city, the Duke’s Castle dates back to early medieval times and has been the seat of the Duke of Uzès since the 11th-century. Comprising of three towers and a Donjon, the interior has been decorated with period furniture. Today, the Duke’s castle can still be visited, though the entrance price is quite hefty.

Uzès principal place of worship can be found in the form of a Cathedral dedicated to Saint Théodorit. For many centuries, Uzès functioned as a Bishopric, under the care of another city. There has been a cathedral on site since 1090, though that which can be seen today was constructed during the 17th-century.

Though not actually located within the confines of Uzès itself, one particular nearby attraction of note mentions a merit in of itself. The Pont du Gard is located around a twenty minute drive from the city and is the top visited Roman monument in France.

The tourist office is housed against the backdrop of the chapel of Capucin Friars, which was built in 1635 on the former site of a Roman place of worship dedicated to Augustus. The best time to visit Uzès is from May until late September, when the weather is at its best and everything is actually open.

Thanks to its laidback nature and beautiful ambiance, Uzès makes for a great place to stay for a couple of nights for those looking to soak up the good life in France. Here are some of the top places to stay in Uzès based on location and web-reviews:

Budget- Hôtel la Taverne: This no-frills hotel with a restaurant and annex offers low-cost accommodation right in the heart of the city. This establishment is also pet friendly. Check prices and availability here.

Mid-range- La Maison Rouge: Boasting a pool and breakfast included, this B&B is located on the fringes of town and is set against the backdrop of a building from the 19th-century. Check prices and availability here.

Luxury- La Maison D’Uzès: For the crème de la crème of a stat in Uzès, you need to look no further than this five-star accommodation. Highlights include a restaurant and bar onsite, as well as rooms and suites feature free WiFi, flat-screen TVs, iPads and minibars. Check prices and availability here.

Enjoyed reading about the best things to do in Uzès? Pin this article now, read it again later:

Sophie Nadeau loves dogs, books, travel, pizza, and history. A Francophile at heart, she runs solosophie.com when she’s not chasing after the next sunset shot or consuming something sweet. She splits her time between Paris and London and travels as much as she can! Subscribe to Sophie’s YouTube Channel.

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Office de tourisme

L’Office de Tourisme Destination Pays d'Uzès Pont du Gard est installé dans une ancienne chapelle construite au 17e siècle à l’emplacement présumé d’un temple romain sur la Place Albert 1er. Chaque année, il assure l’accueil et l’information auprès es touristes.

Office de Tourisme Destination Pays d'Uzès Pont du Gard

Présentation.

L’Office de Tourisme est installé dans une ancienne chapelle construite au 17e siècle à l’emplacement présumé d’un temple romain. Chaque année, il assure l’accueil et l’information de près de 110 000 visiteurs dont environ 30 % d’étrangers. Il est également en charge de la promotion touristique d’Uzès, des communautés de communes du Pays d'Uzès et du Pont du Gard ainsi que de la politique locale du tourisme.

Toute l’année, des visites de la ville par des guides conférenciers agréés par le ministère de la Culture sont organisées par le service animation de l'architecture et du patrimoine de la Ville Uzès,  label Ville d'Art et d'Histoire , en partenariat avec l'office de tourisme.

Pass Up Essentiel

Nouveau, depuis le printemps 2023, l'Office de Tourisme Destination Pays d'Uzès Pont du Gard vous propose des pass pour décourvir le territoire plus facilement et à prix réduit.  Le Pass UP Essentiel vous permet d’accéder pendant 48 heures à 10 sites touristiques majeurs de la Destination (30€ par adulte) . À expiration de votre Pass UP Essentiel, il se transforme en  Pass UP Découverte . Il est votre meilleur allié pour un séjour réussi, à petit prix !

Sur Uzès, le Pass Up Essentiel vous donne accès à  :

• Uzès Exposition 
• Le Duché d'Uzès
• Le Jardin Médiéval
• Le Musée Goerges Borias
• Des visites guidées d’Uzès, Ville d’art et d’histoire

Pour en savoir plus sur le Pass UP Essentiel et le Pass UP Découverte rendez-vous ici :  https://www.uzes-pontdugard.com/reserver/passup/

L'organisation

Le conseil de direction de l’Office de tourisme est composé de 16 membres issus des conseils communautaires et réunis en SPL, Société publique locale Pays d'Uzès-Pont du Gard.

• Président  : Jean-Luc Chapon, élu
• Vice-présidente  : Elisabeth Viola, élue
• Vice-présidente  : Régine Pesenti, élue
• Vice-présidente  : Myriam Callet, élue
• Directrice  : Amandine Thirot

Horaires d'été

• Avril et octobre :

du lundi au samedi, de 9h30 à 18h non stop

• Mai à septembre :

du lundi au dimanche, de 9h30 à 18h non stop

• Juillet et août :

du lundi au dimanche, de 9h30 à 18h30 non stop

Horaires d'hiver

• Novembre à mars : 

du lundi au vendredi, de 9h30 à 12h30 et de 14h à 17h30 samedi, de 9h30 à 13h30. Fermé le dimanche.

Fermé les 1er mai, 1 er  novembre, 11 novembre, 25 décembre, 1 er  janvier.

Rendez-vous sur le site web de l'Office de Tourisme Destination Pays d'uzès Pont du Gard pour préparer votre séjour :  https://www.uzes-pontdugard.com

Office de tourisme Destination Pays d'Uzès-Pont du Gard

Chapelle des Capucins, 16, place Albert Ier BP 13129 - 30703 Uzès Cédex 30700 Uzès

Tél.: 0466226888

[email protected]

En ce moment

Du 30 mars au 12 mai

Exposition - Lumières cévenoles

Lieu Le jardin médiéval

Exposition - Poissons d'Avril

Du 22 avril au 26 avril

Foire ou salon, Forum

Semaine de l'emploi

hour Du 09:00 - 12:00

Lieu Espace Entreprise Emploi

Le 24 avril

Exposition - Corps à corps

Lieu Médiathèque d'Uzès

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Things to Do in Uzes, France - Uzes Attractions

Things to do in uzes, explore popular experiences, tours in and around uzes.

Nimes, Uzes & Pont du Gard Small Group Half-Day Tour from Avignon

Full day cycling trip in Uzès, Pont du Gard and surrounding villages

Full day Bike Ride Uzes + Ticket Pont du Gard

• Roman heritages and Chateauneuf du Pape Wine Tour from Avignon

• Roman Sites and Historical Places Small-Group Day Trip from Avignon

Chateauneuf du Pape wine tour

Provence Highlights Full-Day Tour from Avignon

Provence Cru Wine Small-Group Half-Day Tour from Avignon

Châteauneuf du Pape Wine Day Tasting Tour including Lunch from Avignon

Half-Day Van Gogh Tour of Provence from Avignon

Top Attractions in Uzes

Other Top Attractions around Uzes

Historical Tours

Cultural Tours

Private sightseeing tours.

Tours & Sightseeing

What travelers are saying.

• Place aux herbes
• La Vallée de l'Eure
• Jardin Médiéval
• Haribo Museum
• Cathédrale Saint-Théodorit
• Le Jardin Des Oules
• Nimes, Uzes & Pont du Gard Small Group Half-Day Tour from Avignon
• Full-Day Private Trip of Saint Tropez from Nice
• Half Day Pont-du-Gard, Uzès, Nîmes Tour from Avignon
• Un Siècle de Roulottes

Must-see attractions in Uzès

This fortified château belonged to the House of Crussol, who were the dukes of Uzès for over 1000 years until the French Revolution. The building is a…

Cathédrale St-Théodont

Built in 1090 on the site of a Roman temple, Uzès' cathedral was partially destroyed in both the 13th and 16th centuries and stripped during the French…

Musée du Bonbon Haribo

Uzès’ history as a confectionery centre lives on at this Wonka-esque museum, which explores the sweets-making process from the early 20th century through…

Jardin Médiéval

This delightful garden contains a wealth of plants and flowers that served a variety of purposes for their medieval planters: medicinal, nutritional and…

Uzès, City of Art and History

Uzès, an enchanting city The Romans founded Ucetia here, to the North of the medieval centre. Excavations carried out in these ancient urban areas have recently uncovered numerous remains dating from the 1st century BCE up until late Antiquity. A unique polychrome mosaic pavement, remarkable both in terms of its size (60 sqm) and its quality, was also discovered at the same time. One of the mosaics is decorated with geometric motifs framing central medallions, with illustrations of four animals at each corner: a fawn, duck, owl and eagle - possibly a tribute to the Roman gods.

The first known remains of the aqueduct, around the ancient spring

Uzès also developed in the valley, at the foot of the hill, around the Eure springs, so visitors can journey back to the ancient past. These springs, which were first captured and channeled in the middle of the 1st century CE, via a 50 kilometer aqueduct, lay behind the construction of the Pont du Gard - the aqueduct's most famous remains - which channeled water from the Roman basin to Nîmes. Here you can discover the remains of this canalisation system as well as a regulation basin, both of which were in partial use until the 6th century.

Three towers for three powers

Stroll around the old streets of Uzès, which tell the story of the city's Medieval history, and discover the old Bishop's Palace. It was built in the 5th century, based on a Roman model. The Uzès bishops minted coins and dispensed justice, privileges which reflected their great power. In 1229, the Languedoc region, of which Uzès was a part, was incorporated into the Kingdom of France. In 1632, the Duke of Uzès became the 1st duke and French peer. You can visit the Duchy, located in the heart of the city. It still belongs to the same ducal family who have been living there for more than 1,000 years.

If you look up, you will notice three towers which symbolised the three main powers that ruled over Uzès until the time of the Revolution. Not forgetting the Fenestrelle, the cathedral's Romanesque clock-tower with its unique architectural style. Together with the ducal palace, it is one of the city's symbolic landmarks.

A remarkable architectural heritage

The city of Uzès, which was an important trading centre from the 13th century onwards, grew up around its main squares (place aux Herbes), with fairs, markets and later industries (particularly textiles). Wander around the narrow streets and admire the townhouses, with their remarkable façades, fountains and other buildings dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries. Today Uzès, a designated city of Art and History, with its rich and exceptional architectural heritage, boasts a diverse history and variety of buildings.

Practical information

Uzès, city of art and history: guided tours of historic centre available throughout the year (duration: 2 hours, price: €5/€3) or themed tours - also for young audiences and groups, available in foreign languages, (depending on season).

From 01/06 to 30/09: Monday to Friday: 10:00 - 18:00 (19:00 from 01/07 to 31/08) Saturday, Sunday and public holidays: 10:00 - 13:00 / 14:00 - 17:00

From 01/10 to 31/05 : Monday to Friday: 10:00 - 12:30 / 14:00 - 18:00 Saturday: 10:00 - 13:00 Closed Sundays 01/01, 01 and 08/05, 01 and 11/11, 25 /12

Top Attractions In Uzès, A LovelyVillage in Southern France

“Oh little town of Uzes! If you were in Umbria, Parisians would be visiting you in herds!” — Andre Gide

Just west of Provence lies a storybook sunshine-y village, wrapped in golden hued limestone and perfect for flaneurs — Uzes.

I stopped in Uzès on my journey from Arles to Toulouse . I was delighted by the laid back little honeypot.

We felt like we landed in the “real” France, “France Profonde,” not just a tourist town denuded of its authenticity.

Officially, Uzès is not in Provence, but in Occitanie region, in the department of Gard.

But it looks and feels like Provence — with its pastel shutters, limestone facades, and cobbled lanes. It’s just a less crowded off radar gem, at least when it’s not market day.

Casually chic Uzès makes a perfect stop on your southern France road trip. Or it’s an easy day trip from from Arles , Montpellier, Nimes, or Avignon. Uzès was easily one of my favorite hidden gems towns in France .

You can visit Uzes on a guided day tour from Avignon .

Mini History of Uzes

Uzès was originally an “oppidum,” a fortified town. It was the site of an ancient settlement dating back to the 2nd century BC.

Just to the north of Uzès , the Romans founded Ucetia , a “lost city” that was recently discovered in 2017. From the 13th century, Uzes was an important trading center — silk, linen, and licorice.

In 1565, the first Duke of Uzès was installed as a Duke and French peer. There’s still a duke of Uzès, Jacques de Crussol d’Uzes. When he’s in residence, the flag is raised, just as when Queen Elizabeth is at Windsor Castle.

In the 16th century, King Charles IX elevated his rank to that of 1st Duke of France. This meant that the Count of Crussol, the first Duke of Uzès, became the 2nd most important person in France.

In 1965, André Malraux, Minister of Culture under General de Gaulle classified Uzès as a City of Art and History.

Attractions In Uzès: What To See

Here’s are the highlights of a visit to Uzès.

1. Take A Stroll

The main activity in Uzès is just to stroll the charming tangled lanes in the old town pedestrian zone, at a leisurely pace.

Uzès is an architectural jewel made for walking. And so I walked aimlessly, admiring the old village steeped in history and so different than the United States.

2. Place aux Herbes: Uzès Vibrant Center

The Place aux Herbes is the main square of Uzès, a lovely central meeting place. It’s a broad square filled with plane trees, café tables, and flanked by a squat limestone colonnade.

Its vaulted arcades are filled with tony boutiques, artisan gelato shops, and trendy cafes.

We had a delicious lunch under the ribbed vaults of Ten , a fabulous restaurant that I highly recommend. Pop into Les Terroirs.

Inside it’s part restaurant (mostly sandwiches) and part posh market. The shelves are crammed with artisanal olive oils, terrines, and wines.

3. The Duke’s Castle

Uzès most dominant landmark is the medieval Duke’s Castle, called the Duchy.

It’s a walled structure smack in the middle of the town, complete with turrets, that serves as the Duke’s residence.

The dukes of Uzès have lived in the castle for over a thousand years. The present duke is #17. The castle serves as his summer home.

The castle’s a bit of an architectural mishmash with a 12th century tower, Gothic chapel, and Renaissance facade.

After the French Revolution, the castle was partly in ruins. Beginning in 1951, the Marchioness of Crussol set about restoring the Duchy. The present Duke and Duchess of Uzes continue to renovate.

Tucked behind the Duchy is a modern recreation of Uzès’ medieval gardens. From there, you can climb the King’s Tower (100 steps) for a panoramic view.

Your castle entry fee includes access to the viewpoint atop the donjon.

Legend hold that there was there a tunnel from the Duchy to Place Aux Herbes.

4. Uzès Cathedral & the Fenestrelle

Uzès Cathedral, known as the La Cathédrale Saint-Théodorit, was formerly the seat of the Bishops of Uzès, until the diocese was abolished.

The cathedral was rebuilt in the 17th century, after centuries of damage. The neo-Romanesque façade was added in 1873, after the French Revolution.

The cathedral has an ornate Romanesque bell tower, the Tour Fenestrelle, which is more interesting than the church. The Fenestrelle is essentially Uzès’ leaning tower of Pisa. It has a series of cylinders pierced with narrow windows, and is thus sometimes called the Window Tower.

It’s the only remaining original part of the church. And it’s the only round bell tower in France.

5. Pont de Gard: A UNESCO Site Right Next Door to Uzès

Just 20 minutes away from Uzès stands the Pont du Gard, a surviving scrap of a Roman aqueduct that’s a UNESCO site.

The aqueduct originally took water from Uzès to Nimes. The aqueduct soars over the Gardon River and its dramatic gorge.

The aqueduct is massive. The bridge is 48.8 meters high, 275 meters long, and boasts 52 arches. Pont du Gard was the highest aqueduct in the Roman Empire.

In late June, the temperature had soared to the mid-90s. So after our visit, we dipped our feet in gate Gardon River to cool off. From here, you have a great perspective view of the aqueduct.

Click here to book a skip the line ticket to the Pont du Gard.

Practical Information For Visiting Uzès:

Getting There : The closest train service to/from Uzès is from Nimes and Avignon.

Tourist Office : Chapelle des Capucins, place Albert 1er BP 13129

Pro tip : Market days are Wednesday and Saturday.

Hotels : The best place to stay is the luxury boutique hotel, Maison d’Uzès

The Duke’s Castle:

• Addres s: Place du Duche, 30700, Uzes
• Hours : Daily 10:00 am – 12:00 pm & 2:00 pm – 6:00 pm
• Entry fee : 20 € — pretty steep, but the views from the tower are great.

I hope you’ve enjoyed my guide to the top attractions in Uzes. You may enjoy these other southern France travel guides:

• 10 day itinerary for southern France
• Charming hidden gems in Provence
• Hilltop villages of the Luberon Valley
• Historic landmarks in southern France
• Beautiful villages in Occitanie
• Guide to Arles
• Guide to Toulouse
• Guide to Carcassonne
• Guide to Albi

If you’d like to visit Uzes, pin it for later.

2 thoughts on “Top Attractions In Uzès, A LovelyVillage in Southern France”

Hi there! This is super helpful, I loved it! I’m curious as to how you found driving to all the smaller towns in the mountainous regions? Was it super scary? Thanks!

No, not at all. I didn’t have any trouble and I wouldn’t say it was really “mountainous.” Just park outside the historic center and walk in.

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Last Updated on April 22, 2024 by Leslie Livingston

A Day Trip to Uzès, France – Immerse Yourself in Medieval History

One of the most beautiful day trip destinations in the South of France is Uzès, a pretty medieval town that is an easy day trip from Avignon or Nimes.

I spent a day in Uzès this summer and was mesmerized by the well-preserved historic city center, where cobblestone pathways led the way to ancient castles, hidden gardens and picturesque squares.  I was amazed by how few tourists there were as I explored the compact, walkable old town district.

I highly recommend that you consider a day trip to Uzès if you’re in Provence or Occitanie. If you have a little bit of room in your schedule, you might even want to stay in Uzès overnight to experience the evocative tranquility that falls over the town at dusk.  Trust me, when you look back on your trip to France, your time in Uzès will be among your most memorable moments.

The History of Uzès, France

Uzès is a small town in the Languedoc-Roussillon, or Occitanie, region of the South of France. If you drew a triangle connecting the cities of Avignon, Nimes and Ales, Uzès would be right in the middle of that triangle.

The origins of Uzès date back to the first century BCE, when it was a point along the (long!) aqueduct that now contains the famous UNESCO World Heritage Site Pont du Gard .  By the 700s, the town had expanded and fortified, and over the years it became an important center for cloth-making.

However, Uzès is most famous for its title of First Duchy of France.  In 1565, Antoine de Crussol was awarded the title of Duke, and his chateau became a duchy. The castle in the centre of Uzès has stayed in the de Crussol family for the past 450 years, and the descendants of the original duke still maintain the historic property today.

Things to Do in Uzès

The best things to do in Uzès are concentrated in the historic city center, which is inside the town’s circular ring road.  I recommend starting your visit with a trip to the town’s tourist information office on Place Albert 1er. Here, you can pick up a free city map with a well-marked walking route that will guide you to all of the most beautiful spots in Uzès.

An easy first stop on your walking tour of Uzès is the Ducal Palace, also known as the Duchy. This huge castle is a mix of medieval, Renaissance, 17th-century and modern architecture.  Inside there are luxurious apartments, ancient wine cellars, a chapel and a bell tower that you can ascend for panoramic city views.  Or so I’ve heard, as when I visited in August 2022 the doors were firmly locked and there were no signs of the duchy being open to the public.  Check the castle’s website before you go to see current opening days, times and prices.

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The Medieval Gardens

The Medieval Gardens in Uzès are open seasonally, from April to October.  However, before my day trip to Uzès I saw a comment from their staff on Google Maps, where, in response to someone who noted that the gardens were rather barren in the summer, staff had written:

Come in the spring or autumn.  The weather is milder and the garden more beautiful.

Since I was there in August during a heatwave, it didn’t seem prudent to pay €6 to see dry gardens.  If you are in Uzès during the spring or autumn, you can visit the gardens here to see more than 450 species of plants and learn about how they were used medicinally during the Middle Ages.

The Medieval Gardens are also home to two medieval towers. Visitors who climb the 100 stairs up the King’s Tower are rewarded with beautiful views of the town’s rooftops.

Place Aux Herbes

Did I mention that the skies opened and it poured rain for the entire drive from Nimes to Uzès, and then the rain miraculously stopped the minute I stepped off the bus in Uzès?  Yes, my visit to Uzès was rather serendipitous!

On a normal day, Place aux Herbes is the bustling heart of Uzès, with cafe tables spilling out onto the square and carefully-restored medieval homes lining its edges. On the morning of my visit Place aux Herbes was empty as people waited cautiously to see if the rain would return (it didn’t!).

This is also where you’ll find Uzès’ famous market.  If you time your visit for a Wednesday morning or a Saturday morning or afternoon, you can expect Place aux Herbes to be full of market vendors selling fruits, vegetables, cheese, bread, meats, flowers, handicrafts and more.  Some people consider the Uzès market to be one of the best in all of the South of France, which means it can draw quite a crowd. Consider learning some French for travel before your visit, so that you can interact with the market vendors more authentically.

Eglise St. Etienne

If you visited Uzès eight hundred years ago you would find many more churches than are left standing today (you’d also be a time traveler, so…).  Most of the churches in the center of Uzès were destroyed during the Religious Wars, when Protestants and Catholics fought for power during the latter half of the sixteenth century.

St. Etienne is one of the few churches that still stand in Uzès today, although only its bell-tower and door predate the Religious Wars (the rest was reconstructed in 1767).

If you’re following the map from the tourist information office it recommends that you now detour to see The General Hospital.  I recommend that you skip this stop as it’s literally just a modern hospital – there are no elements of the historic building that are still accessible to the public, and wandering around a hospital parking lot is kind of weird.

Cathedral of Saint Theodorit

Built, destroyed, rebuilt, destroyed, re-rebuilt… Uzès’ cathedral has a storied history.  The current building dates back to the 1600s, and the decorative facade was updated in the late 1800s.  At the time of my visit to Uzès there was a wedding taking place in the cathedral, so I opted to take photos from the panoramic viewing terrace below the church, on Promenade Racine.

Near the cathedral you’ll also find the old Tour Fenestrelle – this bell tower is not open to the public. There is also a small domed building devoted to the writer Jean Racine, who is known to have written many letters to his contemporaries during the years he spent in Uzès.

Medieval Streets of Uzès

Really, though, the greatest pleasure of a day trip to Uzès is simply getting lost in its labyrinth of medieval cobblestone streets.  Ducking under stone archways, sitting beside an ancient fountain, imagining the barons and peasants who once walked the same streets… it’s the kind of escapism that you can only get from a great travel experience. Plan to spend at least one or two unstructured hours simply wandering, following your eyes and ears as you experience this delightful town.

Haribo Candy Museum

This one is coming out of left field!  If you have a rental car (or don’t mind hopping in a taxi), Uzès is home to the Haribo Candy Museum.  Located about four kilometers south of the historic center, the Haribo Candy Museum in Uzès is ideal for families traveling with children. The museum features exhibits about the history of Uzès’ candy industry (it was actually an important producer of licorice), the candy-making process and candy advertising over the years. Of course, your visit ends in the Willy Wonka-esque museum shop, where you can buy all the Haribo that your heart desires. Admission is €10 for adults and €8 for children over the age of five.

Bus From Nimes to Uzès

The bus from Nimes to Uzès is #152.  It departs from the Nimes bus station (behind the train station).  Tickets currently cost €1.50 and can be purchased on board from the driver (cash, exact change recommended).  It takes about 45 minutes to travel from Nimes to Uzès by bus.

The bus from Nimes to Uzès drops you off at a stop called “Esplanade”, which is across the street from the post office shown above.  On the way back, you’ll catch your bus either at the same stop or in front of the post office, by the sign shown in the photo.  From both bus stops, it’s a one-minute walk to the historic center, and three minutes to the main historic square.  Check the bus schedule linked below to see which stop you need (depending on the day and time).

Occasionally, the bus from Nimes to Uzès stops at the edge of town (“Uzès – La Refuge”), rather than in the city centre.  If possible, avoid using this stop as it’s a fifteen-minute walk to the city center and it’s just not the nicest introduction to the city.  If you’re planning to return on a late bus, be careful to go to the correct stop so that you don’t get stuck in Uzès overnight (to be fair, that wouldn’t be terrible!).

Bus schedules vary seasonally, but you can usually find an updated timetable on the official transit website .  Set your “department” to “30 – Gard” and then choose #152.  Generally speaking “LaV” means “Monday to Friday”, “S” means “Saturday” and “D” means Sunday, and the different colors at the top (red, orange, yellow and grey) indicate the season.  If you need help understanding the bus schedule, ask at the tourist information office or at your accommodation.

Bus From Avignon to Uzès

The bus from Avignon to Uzès is #115.  It leaves from the Avignon bus station (beside the train station, sort of underneath the Ibis Hotel).  As with the buses from Nimes, tickets currently cost €1.50 and can be purchased on board from the driver (cash, exact change recommended).  It takes about 45 minutes to travel from Avignon to Uzès by bus.

According to the official transit website, buses to and from Avignon both use the Esplanade stop (so you’ll get off the bus and back on it at the same place – no need to cross the road on your way back).  You can get more details about the schedule here , by setting your “department” to “30 – Gard” and choosing #115.  See above for help with reading the schedule.

As with the bus to and from Nimes, not all of the buses between Avignon and Uzès stop in the city center. I recommend choosing a bus that goes from Avignon to “Uzès – Esplanade”.  Some of the buses only go as far as “Uzès – La Refuge”, which is a fifteen-minute walk from the historic center.  It’s not an unpleasant walk, but it’s just something to be aware of (especially on your way back – you don’t want to go to the wrong stop and miss the last bus to Avignon!).

Restaurants in Uzès

There are lots of restaurants in Uzès, but in the high season they tend to fill up quickly and it’s worth making a reservation if there is somewhere special that you want to eat.  Some restaurants in Uzès that you may want to consider include:

• Chez Cerise – This is where I had lunch, which is shown above.  They had a small menu on a chalkboard outside. One of the options was a “vegetarian plate”, which is my favorite thing to order in France as it’s always different and always surprising.  You can see that mine came with several different types of salads, a little bowl of ratatouille and fresh melon slices. Of course, I had it with a glass of rosé wine and a carafe of tap water.
• Les Terroirs – This was my back-up option if I wasn’t able to get a seat at Chez Cerise, since I knew beforehand that their menu had several vegetarian options (on top of more traditional French dishes).  They also have a little boutique selling many of the locally-made condiments they use to prepare their cuisine.
• Creperie La Bolée – Right beside the Tourist Information office, this little creperie is perfect for a light lunch or snack. They have both sweet and savory crepes.
• La Table d’Uzès – For a special event, this is Uzès’ only Michelin-starred restaurant.  As far as Michelin-starred restaurants go prices here are relatively affordable, with lunch starting at € 52 (before the wine pairing).

Hotels in Uzès

I only visited Uzès for the day, so I can’t make a personal hotel recommendation. However, while I was exploring the town I noticed a few cute hotels that had great locations and that have good reviews online.  If you’re looking for a hotel in Uzès, these are good options to consider:

• Boutique Hotel Entraigues – This would be my first choice for a hotel in Uzès. Located in a renovated heritage building right in the historic center, the rooftop terrace here has beautiful views and on a hot summer day you won’t be able to resist their swimming pool.
• Hostellerie Provencale – A charming little hotel just on the edge of the historic center, the on-site restaurant here is regarded as one of the best in town.
• Patio de Violette – If you have a car, it’s a quick five-minute drive into Uzès from this countryside hotel.  Savor a continental breakfast on their pretty garden terrace.

Is Uzès Worth Visiting?

Yes, Uzès is worth visiting, and a day trip to Uzès from Avignon or Nimes will definitely be a highlight of your trip to the South of France!  There are many charming small towns around Provence and the surrounding areas, but few are as well-preserved as Uzès and its historic center.  Uzès is the perfect place to spend a day or two on your next trip to France.

If you love visiting small towns in the South of France, check out my guides to Saint-Remy-de-Provence , Saint-Paul de Vence and L’Isle-Sur-la-Sorgue .

If you have any questions about traveling to Uzès, leave a comment below and I’ll answer ASAP!

Planning a trip to the South of France?  Pin this post for later!

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Uzes tourism and travel guide

Visit Uzes: highlights and tourist information

France This Way comment: The medieval centre of Uzes is interesting to explore, then perhaps visit the extensive caves at nearby La Cocaliere

Uzes is situated in the Gard department and Occitanie region.

Important note

This page features a summary of highlights that you might like to explore near Uzes. For detailed visitor information see the Uzes travel guide .

Tourist classifications for Uzes include "town of art and history" and "secteur sauvegarde" .

Below you can see some of the places that we have visited and reviewed and can recommend when you are sightseeing close to Uzes in Occitanie.

Popular places to visit nearby include Lussan at 16 km and Saint-Victor-la-Coste at 19 km.

Uzes, France: places to visit and attractions

Note that all distances below are 'direct' and real driving distances will be greater!

Pont du Gard

Saint-Victor-la-Coste

La Roque-sur-Ceze

Saint-Laurent-des-Arbres

Bagnols-sur-Ceze

Chateau de Tarascon

... or see ALL recommended places to visit in Gard

Arrange a visit to Uzes

Book hotels, car hire and flights.

• Book a visit

Hotels in Uzes

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Reserve excursions

Map of places to visit near uzes, markets in and near uzes.

Market days in Uzes: weekly market: Saturday;

• Uzes: market Saturday (0km)
• Remoulins: market Friday (14km)
• Marguerittes: market Saturday (17km)
• Nimes: market Wednesday & Tuesday & Monday all day & Friday (20km)
• Manduel: market Wednesday (22km)
• Goudargues: market Wednesday (23km)
• Bagnols-sur-Ceze: market Wednesday (23km)
• Aramon: market Wednesday (25km)
• Beaucaire: market Thursday & Sunday (29km)
• Roquemaure: market Tuesday (29km)

More information about Uzes, Languedoc-Roussillon

Tourist attractions near uzes, france.

What to do at Uzes? Some places with official tourist classifications and other places of interest to visit nearby that should provide inspiration if you are visiting Uzes.

Grand sites of France

• Pont du Gard (12km)
• Aven d'Orgnac (33km)
• Camargue (38km)
• Gorges de l'Ardeche (43km)

Heritage sites

• Avignon Centre (32km)
• Orange Roman Theatre (34km)
• Saint-Gilles ancienne abbatialle (monuments on French pilgrim routes) (37km)
• Roman Arles (41km)
• Arles église St Honorat (monuments on French pilgrim routes) (42km)

Most beautiful villages in France

(see also beautiful French villages )

• La Roque-sur-Ceze (22km)
• Aigueze (34km)
• Baux-de-Provence (43km)

National Monuments

• Fort Saint-Andre (31km)
• Montmajour Abbey (39km)
• Glanum (41km)

Recommended detour towns (fr: plus beau détour)

• Beaucaire (29km)

Regional Natural Parcs

• Alpilles (45km)

Churches and religious monuments

• Cathédrale Saint-Théodorit et Fenestrelle Tower (Uzes) (0km)
• Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Repos de Montfavet (Avignon) (32km)
• Abbaye Notre Dame de Montmajour (Arles) (39km)
• Eglise et cloitres de Saint Trophime, Eglise de Saint-Honorat des Alycamps (Arles) (41km)
• Cathédrale Notre-Dame (Saint-Paul-Trois-Chateaux) (47km)
• Eglise de Saint Michel (La Garde-Adhemar) (50km)

Remarkable gardens

• Jardins de la Fontaine (20km)
• Jardin aquatique « Aux fleurs de l'eau (34km)
• Bambouseraie de Prafrance (36km)
• Jardin du château de Brantes (36km)
• Jardin des herbes (50km)
• Jardin de l'Alchimiste (51km)
• Jardin du mas de l'Abri (56km)
• Jardin du Tomple (56km)
• Parc et jardins du château de Flaugergues (60km)

Protected historical centre (fr: secteur sauvegardé)

(see also historical French towns )

• Nimes (20km)
• Villeneuve-les-Avignon (31km)
• Avignon (33km)
• Sommieres (37km)
• Saint-Gilles (38km)
• Arles (41km)
• Montpellier (62km)

Sites of natural beauty

• Cascades du Sautadet (21km)
• Grotte de Saint-Marcel (37km)
• Réserve naturelle nationale des Gorges de l'Ardèche (38km)
• Grotte de la Cocaliere (38km)
• Etang de Scamandre (44km)
• Bois de Païolive (45km)

Villages in bloom 4* (fr: ville fleurie)

• Ales (30km)

Zoo and/or wildlife park

• La Ferme aux crocodiles (45km)
• Parc zoologique de Lunaret (60km)

Geography and distances

Uzes is in the south of France at 20 kilometres from Nimes, the department capital (general information: Uzes is 561 kilometres from Paris).

Geographical Information

Commune: Uzes

Canton: Uzès

Arrondissement: Nîmes

Department: Gard

Region: Languedoc-Roussillon

New region: Occitanie

Postcode: 30700

Distance to Uzes

from Nimes (prefecture): 20 km

from Paris: 561 km

from Calais: 795 km

from Nice: 231 km

from Bordeaux: 407 km

from Strasbourg: 569 km

Getting here

For driving distances to Uzes from anywhere in France see driving distances and route planner .

We have 9 other places listed as being close (less than kilometres from ): Blauzac , Montaren-et-Saint-Mediers , Saint-Hippolyte-de-Montaigu , Saint-Maximin , Saint-Quentin-la-Poterie , Saint-Siffret , Saint-Victor-Des-Oules , Serviers-et-Labaume and Vallabrix .

This page in French: Visiter Uzes

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Uzès: Exploring the Duchy’s provencal markets and artisanal wonders

• Post category: Occitanie
• Post author: Nassie Angadi

The French Royal family may have lost their heads, but the Duke of Uzès is still around, as is his duchy. Located in the region of Occitanie in the South of France, it is about 15-20 minutes away from the city center of Nimes and 45 minutes from Avignon .

Don’t mistake it for a suburb though, Uzès is a kingdom all to itself. The town is famous for being part of the charming little duchy of Uzès.

In addition, it epitomizes small-town France complete with its own castle, cobblestone alleys, art galleries, and artisan shops offering everything from faience pottery to lavender oils. So let’s have a look as to why both locals and tourists flock to Uzes, shall we? Allons-y!

7. Pont du Gard

Summer markets.

The first settlement at Uzès dates back to the 1st century. When the Roman aqueduct, the Pont de Gard , was built nearby to bring water to Nimes, both Uzès and Nimes flourished.

The title Seigneur d’Uzès was given in 1088 to Crussol d’Uzès family. This was eventually upgraded to Viscount, Count, and finally Duke in 1565 . The Ducs de Uzès eventually rose to become the premier title of France, just after the Royal Princes. It was their job to proclaim  “Le Roi est mort. Vive le Roi!”, (meaning “the King is dead, long live the King”).

The family managed to survive with their heads during the French Revolution , although they did lose their castle and their lands. They managed to repurchase the castle in the early 1800s and restore it to its former glory, maintaining the property ever since.

Today, when walking through Uzès, you do notice the impact of the ducal family and the community in Uzès. When wandering through, the town seems like a place where the locals all know each other, having holiday homes in the area for generations.

Things to do in Uzès

1. Château Ducal d’Uzès

Château Ducal d’Uzès is regularly open for visit, although do check timings, as they often close for lunch, or special events. The building is at once a home, a museum, and a performance hall.

The musical event, Les Nuits Musicales d’Uzès , takes place every July, all in the Château, as well as around in the surrounding area. (We managed to spot the Duke and his family there at a concert during the summer holidays one year).

Since it is a private home, tours are guided rather than just wandering through.  You can climb the Tour de Roi, one of the main imposing towers of the castle, for amazing views across the town and countryside. Tickets can be purchased at the gate.

2. The Town

The streets of Uzès are lined with charming little artisan shops, that converge on to large squares. Basically, it is a smaller, more intimate version of Aix-en-Provence , which is less than 2 hours away .

One of the largest squares in Uzès is the famous Place aux Herbes , which is filled with open-air restaurant terrasses during the summer months.

There is also a hidden little garden called the Jardin Médiéval d’Uzès that you shouldn’t miss.

3. Cathédrale St-Théodont

The Cathedral in Uzès is an imposing building just outside old part of town with magnificent views of the surrounding countryside.  The original cathedral was destroyed in the Albigensian Crusade targeting the Cathars in nearby Albi .

It was rebuilt, and destroyed again in the 16th-century Wars of Religion.  It was then rebuilt with additional work being done in the 18th century to make it the building it is today.

4. The Food

When looking at restaurants in Uzès, one of the things is you will notice regularly featured on the menu is truffles. There are several truffle plantations in the area which you can visit, such as  Les Truffières d’Uzès . The town also holds a truffle festival every year.

The town also has several high-end restaurants known for their gastronomy. The  La Maison d’Uzès is a luxury hotel and Michelin-starred restaurant in the historic city center. There are also other great eateries such as Ten , Comptoir du 7 and my favorite, Au Petit Jardin .

If you would like to explore classic provençale cuisine recipes , you can find them here.

5. The Wine

The area around Uzès is part of the Côtes du Rhone wine region , and the Duché d’Uzès has its own wine appellation .

The red wines in this area are dark and aromatic with tones of fruit and licorice. If you are visiting in the summer and prefer something lighter, try the rosés which have notes of citrus, white flowers, and red berries or the whites which are light and fresh with aromas of apricot and peach.

Book a tour to go on a wine-tasting in the area (with a designated driver!) and pick your favorite.

☞ READ MORE: 11 French Wine Regions: the Easy Guide to (fancy) Wine

6. Art and Antiques

Uzès has several specialty art galeries, as well as small shops selling antiques and collectibles. If you are looking for unique one-of-a-kind pieces, make sure to leave some room in your suitcase.

About 15 km (10 miles) away from Uzès is one of the most visited tourist attractions in France after the  Palace of Versailles  and  Mont Saint Michel . Pont du Gard is an ancient Roman aqueduct that was built in the 1st century. The aqueduct was built to carry water to over 50 km (31 miles) to what was then the Roman colony of Nimes.

The Pont crosses the river Gardon and is the highest of all Roman aqueduct bridges, as well as being one of the best-preserved.

After the Roman empire collapsed, the Pont du Gard remained in use as it also served as a toll bridge for people looking to cross the river. In the 1400s, the Bishops and Ducs of nearby Uzès being responsible for maintaining the bridge.

Today it is a UNESCO world heritage site , with a large visitors’ center and museum on site. You will need a rental car to visit Pont du Gard from Uzès, or alternatively you can  book a tour.

Market days

Weekly marché.

Uzès is famous for its Wednesday and Saturday morning markets held on:

• Wednesday – from 7:30am to 2pm in the village center
• Saturday – from 7:30am to 1pm at Place aux Herbes

This is where locals and tourists all gather to do their weekly shopping. The streets are packed, and parking is nearly impossible, so be sure to arrive early (or spend the night before).

You will find everything from local specialties and produce , fine cheeses , charcuterie , seafoods, and more. On the narrower streets, there are also clothing stalls, linens, pottery, jewelry, and many a florist.

Uzès also has a couple of markets that occur only in the summertime:

• Marchés nocturnes – in the evening every Tuesday, from mid-July to end of August from 6 pm to 11 pm.
• Sunday markets – From April to October, every Sunday from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. at Place aux Herbes and Place de Verdun. Market is an antique and plant market along with stands for creators and local producers.

How to get to Uzès?

The closest airport to Uzès is in nearby  Montpellier , about 1h15 away. The closest train station is in  Nimes , which is around 20 minutes away from Nimes, although the public bus between Nimes and Uzès takes 40 minutes.

The town is about 45 minutes away from  Avignon  and Arles , if you are driving around the South of France. You will need a rental car to get there, or you can  book a tour with transport from Avignon .

How many days should you spend?

I recommend spending at least one night in Uzès, to enjoy the city at night. The town has many restaurants and terrasses where the locals make merry long into the night, and you will not want a long night-time drive ahead of you after partaking in the fun.

Where should you stay?

The hotels in the center of Uzès are quite expensive, but I highly recommend splurging on this occasion. There is a charm to the old city that is simply unmatchable, and you will want to make the most of your visit.

• €€€ –  Hostellerie Provençale
• €€€€ –  Boutique Hôtel Entraigues
• €€€€€ –  La Maison d’Uzès Relais & Châteaux

So had you heard about Uzès before? Have I inspired you to visit this little town? If you enjoyed that article, you may like to read more about traveling around the Occitanie . A bientôt!

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This post has 2 comments.

Nicely done! This takes me back to my trip in 2014. I used Avignon as a base and visited Uzes, Nimes and the Pont du Gard. What a treasure. The Roman buildins in Nimes are some of the best remaining in the world.

Thank you! Yes, I’m still working on my article on Nimes, so much history there! Watch this space, it will be up soon 😉

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Tourism around Uzès

Guide, holidays & weekends in uzès.

Shutters & Sunflowers

Travel tips from an english girl in california, in love with provence., uzès, languedoc roussillon, france, travel guide.

WHY GO TO UZES

Its cobbled streets spill out onto elegant squares, shaded by gently worn, shuttered buildings. There are many grand renaissance mansions and other interesting landmarks including its château, cathedral, and its iconic Fenestrelle tower.

One could sit here for hours listening to the soft splutters of the fountain, enjoying a refreshment from one of the many enticing restaurants, becoming immersed in the local bustle. Place-aux-Herbes plays host to carnivals, an annual truffle fare, art & antique fares & exhibitions, and well renowned twice-weekly marchés, the most vibrant in Provence. Smiling locals selling linens, ribbons, baskets, and flowers, cheese makers, olive growers, and an abundance of fresh produce.  

Uzès , has a unique, beguiling atmosphere one which having visited will leave you feeling as if you’ve spent a moment, back in time.

HOW TO GET TO UZES

The nearest international airport is Marseilles (MRS), 120km south with numerous international connections from Paris, London Frankfurt Munich and many other European cities. Several regional European airlines fly into Nîmes (40km south) and Montpellier (80km south).

If driving, Uzès is about 20km west of the A9 autoroute, just 25km south of the major A7/A9 autoroute interchange near Orange.

WHAT TO IN UZÈS

There is much to explore to within the town itself and should you wish to venture further the surrounding area beckons!

THE CHÂTEAU   The château in Uzès, Le Duché d’Uzès, is known by the locals as ‘Le Duchy’ and is where the original ducal family still reside. Tours are available, check for times

THE CATHEDRAL ~ Cathédrale Saint-Théodorit d’Uzès dates from the Middle Ages, it was the former seat of the Bishops of Uzès’

THE FENESTRELLE TOWER  ~Uzès’ most famous landmark, an incredible Rapunzel tower of windows!

THE MEDIEVAL GARDEN   ~ originally part of the castle, it was restored to a medieval garden in 1995, utterly captivating!

PONT DU GARD

A visit to this incredible World UNESCO heritage site  should not be missed. Just 13km east of Uzès on the road towards Avignon, for over 2000 years it has spanned the River Gardon. Built in 50AD as part of the Roman aquaduct of Nimes it was used up until the 6th century. A breathtaking marvel. Watch the video here

OLIVE OIL MILLS As in much of southern Europe, where there are grapes growing often there are olives too! Our favorite is  Le Moulin d’Uzès , normally also available in the Uzès’ market.

WHAT TO DO NEAR UZES

There is a rich Roman heritage in this area of France which is reflected in the many ruins which include amphitheatres and arenas in the local towns especially in:

NIMES   lies 25km south of Uzès and was once the most important city of Roman Gaul, much of which remains in evidence, in particular its arena, one of the best preserved in Europe and still in use today.

ORANGE Founded in 35BC and also abounding in Roman splendor is 50km north east of Uzès. Its stunning stone theatre is still the magical, atmospheric setting for productions today.

AVIGNON  The stunning, medieval, walled city is 40 km away. Most famous for Les Palais des Papes which was the home of the Popes for 100 years and the Pont D’Avignon. A tour of both should not be missed.

CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE    47km north east of Uzès, Chateauneuf-du-Pape is France’s first wine appellation, where the wine for the Popes were cultivated and produced.

MONTPELLIER 80km south west of Uzès, Montpellier is the capital of Languedoc Roussillon, a grand medieval city well worth spending a day exploring.

ST RÉMY DE PROVENCE   55km south east of Uzès, St Rémy-de-Provence is a charming, very Provencal town packed with shops and restaurants, with a fantastic Wednesday Market. Whilst there combine a visit to the perched village of Les Baux de Provence.

LES BAUX DE PROVENCE

60km south east of Uzès and just a fifteen minute drive from St-Rémy-de-Provence is the stunning perched medieval village of Les Baux-de-Provence.

The self-guided audio tour around the château ruins is fascinating and do NOT miss the spectacular video art extravaganza  Carrières de Lumières . Set to music and projected onto the walls of one hundred foot high bauxite caves the art of the Masters is profiled; Van Gough, Michelangelo, Gaugin, each year someone different, it is utterly breathtaking!

THE LUBERON VALLEY

75km south east of Uzès is The Luberon Valley.  A beautiful region resplendent with vineyards, olive groves, abundant fruit trees, and from about mid June, endless fields of fragrant lavender. Watch the video of the Luberon Valley here and then explore it’s timeless perched villages yourself, Lacoste & Menerbes , Gordes, Roussillon & Bonnieux and my favorite,  Lourmarin  not actually perched but quite magical!

Download The Travel Guide for Lourmarin & the Luberon here.

WHERE TO STAY IN UZES

Renting a property  There are many properties available, renting somewhere to stay can provide a tiny snapshot of what it is like to actually live here; having more space to relax and shopping in the local stores and markets to cook at home. Typically it is more expensive to rent in the town center and parking can be problematic but being able to walk to restaurants and the market in my opinion makes it worth it.

If you rent out in the villages you will probably get more space with a garden and a pool. Check out Homeaway and airbnb

LA MAISON DE LA BOURGADE    31 Rue de la Petite Bourgade, 30700 Uzès   Tel: +33 4 66 22 71 10

Location : ~Uzès center, seldom closed, parking available for €7 a night. Price: €100 -€130 per night, breakfast included. Comments: Exquisite but simple rooms, you will be charmed by Elizabeth who opens up her home & her heart to her guests. Stylish and charming a delightful place to stay,

Location: 6 km east of Uzès on D981 leading to Uzès, 2 minutes from the Pont du Gard.  Price: €65 -€260 per night breakfast €15, parking free on site, gourmet restaurant.  Comments: One of our favorites’s. La Begude St Pierre  renovated a few years ago this former 17th century coaching inn offers 4 star luxury in one of its 23 rooms and suites. All rooms are air-conditioned with flat screen TV’s, mini bars and safes. It is worth paying extra for one of the rooms with its own oversized private terrace. The spa services available in your room are highly recommended!

L’ARTEMISE   Chemin de la Lauze, 30700 Uzès Tel: +33 (0)4 66 63 94 14 Location ~ 10 minute walk from center of Uzès Closed: normally closed during winter months Price: from €200 per night  Comments: A 16th century Provencal mas, 8 exquisite suites, decorated with soft Belgian linens & each room with its’ own kitchen facilities. L’Artemise offers a spa and gastronomic restaurant. A luxurious, laid back spot, just a 10 minutes stroll from Uzès, gorgeous!

CLOS DU LETHE   Chemin de la Lauze – 30700 Uzès, Tél : +33 04 66 74 58 3 Location ~ 6km from center of  Uzès  Closed: normally closed during winter months  Price: from €200 – €320 per night check with hotel.  Comments: A sister hotel to L’Atemise, 6km from Uzès. 5 rustic and spacious rooms with sitting areas, IPod docking stations, plasma TVs and espresso machines, most have a terrace or small outdoor area. Like L’Artemise, luxurious & thoughtfully designed within the limestone walls of an ancient building. There is also a gym, a library and a steam room, pretty special!

MAS D’AUGUSTINE   Rue de Ravel, 30580 La Bruguière Tél : +33 (0)4 66 72 71 61 Location ~ 10km from Uzès center. Closed during winter check website Price : from €125 – €160 per night   Comments : Enjoy the fabulous hospitality of this delightful British couple, Jane & Gary in this former silk mill which they lovingly converted. There are five luxurious ensuite rooms, price includes a delicious breakfast. 3 nights a week it is possible to book bistro style suppers from €15 p.p. or great value 3 course  table d’hotes at €45 p.p. inc. wine.

 WHERE TO EAT

RESTAURANT PARENTHESE ~ Uzès center (In L’HOSTELLERIE PROVENCALE ) 1 Rue de la Grande Bourgade, 30700 Uzès   Tel: +33 4 66 22 11 06 Price: €18.00 -€40.00 per person Closed: mid February to early March  Comments: Great restaurant, with delicious, locally sourced ingredients.

LA MAISON D’ UZES ~ Uzès center Contact: 18 Rue du Docteur Blanchard, 30700 Uzès   Tel:+33 4 66 20 07 00 Price: €47.00 -€90.00 set menus. Lunch from noon to 2 pm, Dinner from 7:30 to 9 pm Closed: For Sunday dinner and all day Monday, annual closure – mid February to early March.  Comments : A wonderful Relais Chateaux hotel, with a fabulous restaurant. The lunchtime special menu €25.00, is an incredible bargain but book well in advance as it is hard to secure a reservation in this special spot.

LE ZANELLI  ~ Uzès center Contact: 3 Rue Nicolas Froment, 30700 Uzès   Tel: +33 4 66 03 01 93 Price : Pizzas from €14.00  Comments: Excellent pizza and wide choice of other Italian food. We love sitting on the gorgeous terrace as the sun drops down behind the clay tiled roof tops, reservations are a must!

Comments: Excellent pizzas, ‘feu de bois’ Cosy inside on a winter nights or outside when its warmer where it’s fun to watch the world go by! Also serves excellent steaks and kebabs, reservations essential!

RESTAURANT D’ ENTRAIGUES ~ Uzès, opposite the Fenestrelle Tower Contact: l’Evèché, Place de l’Évêché, 30700 Uzès Tel: +33 4 66 72 05 25 Price: 3 courses about € 38.00 per person.  Comments : A former 15th century mansion, superbly renovated in 2013 into a luxurious but unpretentious hotel & gastro bistro excellent! Closed Weds & Sundays

TEN ~ Uzès center                                                                                                                                                   Contact:   110 place Dampmartin 30700 Uzès  Tel: +33 (0)4 66 22 10 93                                     Price: Mains from about €18.00. Comments: Opened in 2016, by a delightful lady from Devon, England and her charming French husband. An interesting & delicious menu ~ brunch, lunch, tapas & dinner. Dine on the front patio, under the warm curved ceiling inside or in the rear garden patio, lovely!

L’ARTEMISE ~ 10 minute walk from center of Uzès Contact: Chemin de la Lauze, 30700 Uzès    Tel: +33 4 66 63 94 14
 Price : from €55.00 set course menu Closed: during winter months Comments:  A 16th century Provencal Mas with a gastronomic restaurant, wrapped within warm, exposed limestone walls, excellent service

LE TRACTEUR ~10 minute drive from  Uzès Contact :  Boregre neighbourhood, 30700 Arglliers Tel: + 33 04 66 62 17 33 Price: €€€ call  Comments : You need to know how to find this delightful country restaurant, set in old farm buildings but strikingly modern and chic inside. Great food from the local area, menu frequently changing, always getting better and better!

HOSTELLERIE LE CASTELLAS ~ 8km south east of Uzès

Contact: 30 Grand rue – 30 210 Collias Tel: +33 (0) 4 66 22 88 88    Price: 2 or 3 course Lunches €25-35 Dinner Thursday to Monday evening, from €45~120 May to September also on Wednesday evenings. Comments:  A Gastronomic restaurant at this lovely boutique hotel.

Do let me know your own recommendations AND please do contact me if you would like additional help!

Download T The PDF Travel Guide for Uzès here

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Top 11 things to do in and around Uzès

Uzès is a wonderful little town, tucked away in the hills in the south of France, and surrounded by vineyards and nature. Even though it is a small town, it makes the perfect destination since there are so many things to do nearby! Here are the top 11 things to do in and around Uzès:

1. Visit the Pont du Gard:

The Pont du Gard is a 2000-year-old aqueduct that used to carry water from the Pays d’Uzès and Pays de Pont du Gard to the city of Nîmes, which was an important Roman foothold in France hence its earned nickname of the “ Rome française ” (the Rome of France). The Pont du Gard is a UNESCO world heritage site and has been preserved in pristine condition. It hosts many events throughout the year. Get to know more about the Pont du Gard here . Be sure to check their calendar for events!

2. Canoeing under the Pont du Gard:

If you want a new perspective of the Pont du Gard, while lazily paddling along the river Gardon, then this is the perfect activity for you. Drive a few minutes past the Pont du Gard and you will see a few canoe rental companies. The trip along the river is about 8 kilometres and will take you around 90 minutes to do at a lazy pace. But we recommend you pack yourself a picnic and stop somewhere along the river bank to enjoy the food and the scenery. The end point is clearly marked and the rental companies have buses to ferry you back to their parking. Learn more about it here .

3. Visiting Nîmes:

Nîmes – Rome française is just half an hour drive away from Uzès. Nîmes is home to several well preserved architectural marvels from the Roman empire, the most important one being the Arène de Nîmes (the Roman Arena). The arena hosts many concerts and events in Nîmes including a gladiator show! Nîmes is also home to many museums including the newly opened, Musée de la Romanité . Learn more about Nîmes from their official site here .

4. The salt fields of Aigues Mortes:

Aigues Mortes is a commune a fortified Camarguaise city whose impressive medieval walls can be admired from afar. One of the major industries of Aigues Mortes is sel de Camargue ( sea salt of Camargue). Aigues Mortes is home to wonderful salt fields and graceful pink flamingos. You will see piles and piles of salt and the varying colours of the waters (due to its inhabitants the pink shrimp) which all come together to make for a magical place to visit. Find out more about Aigues Mortes here .

5. Guided tour in the legendary 2CV:

Guided Tours in Uzès with Ailleurs et Uzès. Join Florian Stoll, a local guide and Uzès native in exploring the region around Uzès in his Citroën 2CV. Florian speaks German and French and although he claims his English is rusty, he gets on just fine. Learn more about Florian and the tour here .

6. Night markets:

If you do visit Uzès during the summer, as most people do, you’ll be treated to the sights, smells, and sounds of the local night markets. The night markets are usually a feast for all five senses: there’s food, drinks, lights, spices, perfumes, music, and dance! Learn more about the local night markets here and here .

7. Palais des Papes (Popes’ Palace):

The Palais des Papes is one of the marvels of Avignon and acts as a centre for many exhibitions, including an amazing light and sound show. Experience the paintings and the stained glass windows inside the palace and be in awe of the craftsmanship that it took to build such a massive monument. Learn more about the Palais des Papes here .

8. The Duchy of Uzès:

Visit the palace of the Duke of Uzès (in the 1st Duchy of France) and take in the amazing panoramic views. Explore the narrow medieval side streets and fall in love with the many small shops and cafes in town. Take in the medieval architecture while sipping on some wine or some coffee. Or visit the local markets on Wednesdays and Saturdays and be treated to the freshest local produce. Learn more here .

9. Carrières des Lumières:

Carrières de Lumières (Lights Quarries) offers each year, new sounds & lights show to the delight of the general public – not to mention that they are a great place to cool down during the Summer heat. Come and explore the carrières with us here .

10. Grotte de la Salamandre:

Welcome to the land of Crystal Giants, that is how the website for the amazing Grotte de la Salamandre greets you. On your path to  discover Uzès and the surrounding region, la Grotte de la Salamandre is a great addition to your to-do list. See what’s in store for you and prepare your visit with 8 reasons to le Pays d’Uzès .

11. Steam Train of the Cevennes:

Enjoy a fabulous ride in the steam train of Cevennes and let yourself be taken back in time while you enjoy the fabulous views of the Cevennes mountain range! The train takes you through 18 different stations (but don’t worry it does not stop at them all). There are 3 stops at which you can disembark, one of them being the Bambouseraie with its amazing botanical garden and its greenhouse boutique. You can find more information on the train here .

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The Delights of Uzès in the South of France

Jennifer Ladonne shines a light on this historic town, where a charming, quieter side of southern France is to be found.

Tucked away in the Gard département is a gem of a town and the perfect base for discovering a region full of splendours. “But have you been to Uzès?” is a refrain I’d heard many times, but besotted with Provence, Marseille , the Drôme and pretty much all of the region east of the Rhône and south of Valence, I didn’t give it much thought. Until, on a quick trip from Avignon to the Pont du Gard, I noticed Uzès, a dot on the map just a few kilometres from the majestic Roman bridge. Why not stop by?

Late one October afternoon, circling Uzès on a ring road strongly reminiscent of ever-so-chic Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, an apparition appeared that I could swear was the tower of Pisa in miniature. I veered off the road into a parking lot that abutted what turned out to be the Cathedral of Uzès. A fortunate landing: besides finding a parking spot just steps from the medieval town, the view of the cathedral’s 12th-century Fenestrelle Tower, Uzès’s charming tiled roofs and the splendid Eure Valley stretching before me was magical.

Barely a soul and not a single car in sight, I wound my way up cobbled streets that opened onto charming squares where, but for some elegant boutiques and art galleries, it felt as though time had stopped. Closed to traffic, the medieval centre is a joy to explore on foot (which you can easily do in an afternoon). And everything, from the elegant façades to the paving stones, is hewn from creamy white limestone, a congruity that gives Uzès its remarkable harmony and grace. Coming upon the wide Place aux Herbes, the town’s main market square, I couldn’t resist settling down at a café terrace tucked into a corner under lofty plane trees on that warm October day to savour my good fortune – and plan my return.

View over historic Uzès. © Destination Pays d’Uzès- Pont du Gard/Aurélio Rodriguez 

AN AUTHENTIC GEM

Eighteen months and a pandemic later, I was back in Uzès on a sunny morning in early November. This time, armed with maps, reservations, and a list of things to do, I parked my rental car at the cathedral, knowing that, with days ahead of me, I could enjoy all that Uzès and its surroundings had to offer. And that’s a lot.

Uzès is in the Gard département , just across the Rhône River from the heart of Provence, about 20 miles from Avignon and 16 miles from Nîmes , home of France’s best-preserved Roman amphitheatre. Though very much the south of France – and every bit as comely – Uzès has somehow evaded the bling that’s overtaken so many of its Provençal counterparts. Just an hour from Arles and the Camargue’s sandy beaches to the south, and an hour from the beautiful, wild Cévennes to the north, Uzès is both the perfect destination and an excellent base for discovery.

Though a first-time visit may feel revelatory, Uzès is hardly a secret: well-to-do Parisians, artists and aesthetes discovered the town in the 1970s, less than a decade after the Duchess of Uzès persuaded her friend André Malraux (the novelist and Minister of Culture who first codified the French laws for historic preservation) that the medieval town – then in ruins – was a great investment. Reimagined as a ville d’art et d’histoire, today Uzès’s greatest appeal is its authenticity. Compared with so many Provençal towns, its almost total lack of tourist traps and commercialism is a rarity.

“We’re on the unfashionable side of the Rhône, so life just carries on here all year round. It’s not a tourist town, it’s a living town,” said Gwilym Cox, one of my charming hosts at L’Albiousse, a five-room boutique hotel in a gorgeously restored 16th-century town house, which Cox and his partner, Alexis van Deinse, opened 10 years ago. “You’ve heard of slow food – here it’s slow life, but a real life. And the social life here is better than in Paris… It’s not somewhere you go to see things, we just want you to come to make an experience of it,” emphasised Cox. And it’s true that if lounging around on a sunny terrace or under a graceful colonnade, seeking out local delicacies at the farmers’ market, sipping an apéro under towering plane trees, sleeping in a ravishing hotel or tucking into a gourmet meal is your thing, Uzès more than fits the bill. But there’s also plenty to do and see in and around this historic town.

St Quentin la Poterie is home to the Museum of Mediterranean Pottery. © Destination Pays d’Uzès Pont du Gard – Office de la Culture/ Matthieu SANDJIVY

A NOBLE PAST

In Uzès’s 16th-century heyday, the Duke of Uzès was one of the most influential men in the entire kingdom. Now his imposing castle – occasionally inhabited by the 17th Duke of Uzès – is open to visitors. Besides a glimpse into a nearly 1,000-year history, visitors can enjoy a disarming peek into the private lives of French nobility through centuries of portraits and charming anecdotes about the characters who have lived here.

One of its more colourful inhabitants was beautiful Anne de Mortemart, the dashing wife of the 12th Duke of Uzès. An avid equestrienne and hunter, she was also the first woman in France to possess a driver’s licence.

Interestingly, Uzès holds a lot of firsts for women. It was here in the ninth century that Dhuoda, Duchess of Septimania, became the first woman in France to write a book, while exiled from her husband in the castle keep. Uzès also lays claim to France’s first female mayor, Jeanne Palanque, who was elected in 1945, just one year after French women won the right to vote.

The fountain in the Place aux Herbes. © Destination Pays d’Uzès-Pont du Gard/ Aurélio_Rodriguez

LIVING THE GOOD LIFE

Uzès’s laid-back, live-and-let-live lifestyle may be a vestige of its Protestant roots, but it’s more likely a sign of the people who have gravitated here from around the world for its beauty, serenity, gentle climate, natural bounty and, perhaps most of all, its light.

“If I chose Uzès, it was mainly for the light… even in winter when it can be cold, the light is beautiful,” said jeweller Bénédikt Aïchelé, and it’s something he knows all about. His jewellery boutique-atelier, tucked in an elegant corner just steps from L’Albiousse, features brilliant gemstones set in gold, platinum or tantalum, an inky black metal Aïchelé sets with black or white diamonds. His chic Bague d’Union ring is sought after across the whole of France after being featured in a French documentary.

Ceramicist Anna Karin Andersson, a native of Gothenburg, Sweden, moved to Paris in the 1990s for a career in fashion. But once she laid eyes on Uzès there was no turning back. “It was my paradise to move here. It’s the light that brings you to the south,” she said. Both the light and the nature surrounding the city inspire the winsome, whisper-thin porcelains she makes by hand in her chic boutique workshop at 9 Rue Port Royal.

Part of Uzès’s singularity lies in the tastefulness of its many art and ceramics galleries and high-end interiors and clothing boutiques. Though you will find some touristy shops on the outskirts, the quality here is unusually high – a rule that also applies to its restaurants.

Pretty old street in Uzès. © Destination Pays d’Uzès- Pont du Gard/ Aurélio RODRIGUEZ

At the town’s only Michelin-star restaurant, La Table d’Uzès at the exquisite nine-room hotel Maison d’Uzès, chef Christophe Ducros serves an elegant five-course menu which highlights local produce in deeply French dishes such as succulent wild pigeon or a superb Saint-Jacques with a tartare of girolle mushrooms, all expertly paired with wines from every region of France. For a more casual, bistronomic experience, Racines, a five-minute walk from the city centre, has my vote. Here, happy diners of every age feast on chef Axel Grousset’s masterful dishes: langoustine rolls with tangy sauce gribiche or divinely garlicky avocado mousse served over a buttery sablé and topped with a cascade of velvety crabmeat.

Gourmands will also want to taste – and stock up on – the wonderful local olive oil, nut oils, tapenades and all manner of delights at Le Moulin d’Uzès, a few minutes by car from the city centre. Foodies may also want to time their visit to Uzès carefully: aim for the third week of January, when the ‘blessing of the truffles’ kicks off the annual truffle auction (also held in church).

In terms of climate, the best time to visit Uzès is in late spring or early autumn, when temperatures are pleasant without being stifling. July and August can be uncomfortably hot, as well as being crowded with tourists, and nearby points of interest, such as the Pont du Gard, the ceramics town of Saint-Quentin-la-Poterie and Plus Beau Village Lussens, can be crowded too.

From France Today magazine

Lead photo credit : Aerial view of Uzès. Shutterstock

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By jennifer ladonne.

American journalist Jennifer Ladonne, a Paris resident since 2004, writes regular features on French heritage, culture, travel, food & wine for France Today magazine, and is the restaurants and hotels reviewer for Fodor's Paris, France and Provence travel guides. Her articles have appeared in CNN Travel, AFAR, The Huffington Post, MSN and Business Insider.

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Lions in the Piazza

Uzès, the Perfect Base for Visiting the South of France

Anyone who doesn’t believe the French have perfected the art of living hasn’t been to Uzès. In the town’s quintessential tiny streets, sunlight plays across golden stone walls, with heirloom rose bushes spilling over here and there. Children’s voices mix with the sound of their feet slapping the cobblestones. Gradually smells from the bakeries and restaurants entice everyone towards the center   of town. The atmosphere gets livelier as locals congregate at cafés clustering around the main   square…. Think charm, charm, and more charm with no pretense whatsoever. 

This market town on the border of Occitanie and Provence makes an ideal vacation base. Trails for hiking and biking abound, including one along the ancient Roman aqueduct to the iconic Pont du Gard. Nîmes and Avignon are a short, scenic drive or bus ride away, as are lavender fields and countless other villages. Uzès doesn’t have a train station, but the regional bus system is extensive and easy to use. 

Many travelers gravitate towards cities when considering the best base for a vacation. But staying near a major transportation hub nearby can mean sacrificing atmosphere and relaxation. We spent a week in Uzès, exploring the historic center and its renowned market. We loved sinking into the easy rhythm of summer days, getting to know the locals, and having plenty of opportunities to explore the town’s more subtle pleasures. No matter how much we enjoyed our day trips, coming “home” to Uzès each evening always made us happy. 

Orientation

Uzès is pronounced OO-zess, more or less. The first syllable doesn’t have an exact equivalent in English. If you speak French, it sounds like the ‘u’ in  bûche   rather than the ‘ou’ in  bouche .

The town is about 16 miles (25 km) north of Nîmes and 25 miles (40 km) west of Avignon. Uzès lies on the eastern edge of Occitanie, close to Provence culturally   as well as geographically.

Orientation in Uzès is simple: a roughly circular road rings most of the medieval center. The road’s name varies, but it’s always easy to recognize since it functions as a high street. A shady strip called the Esplanade makes a spur off the ring, serving as an outdoor bus station and also the scene of summer food stalls. Crossing through the ring road where it intersects the spur, you’ll find the Place aux Herbes, the heart of town.

Life in the Medieval Town

Uzès began as a Roman settlement near the Fontaine d’Eure, the source of the Alzon river and the start of the aqueduct to Nîmes. In the fifth century, it became the regional bishopric, dispensing justice and minting money. From 725-753, it was also the northernmost outpost of Muslim Spain. With a relatively tolerant outlook, Uzès hosted communities of Jews and Cathars when it could. In 1229 it joined France along with the rest of Languedoc. When the Industrial Revolution and silkworm disease brought the local textile industry to an end, the region began producing ceramics and licorice instead. (Hence the Haribo candy factory just outside town.)

Uzès’ year-round population of 8,000 swells to roughly twice its size during July and August. Most of the visitors we saw in late June appeared to be regulars, nearly all of them French. You couldn’t ask for a more relaxed, friendly atmosphere. At the grocery near the bus stop, we made the acquaintance of the owner and his acrobatic   terrier. The baker kindly helped me to brush up on my vocabulary by naming each of the pastries. My favorite: the  chausson aux pêches , with peaches peeping out the end of a flaky pastry “slipper.”

Place aux Herbes

This is grand central station for life in Uzès. Enormous plane trees dot this square, surrounded by cafes and a few shops tucked into the medieval arcades. I got the impression everyone passes through here on a daily basis. The atmosphere picks up tempo from quiet coffees and dog-walking in the morning to drinks and music in the evening. 

Saturday is market day in Uzès, and draws people from all over the region. (The smaller version on Wednesdays has mostly food.) Stalls spread from the Place aux Herbes through   the surrounding streets. Our pickings included fresh goat cheese, produce, honey and sauces   to take home in little jars, woven baskets, espadrilles, and Provençal soaps.

Ducal Palace

In 1632 Uzès became the first duchy in France; only the royal family ranked higher than the Duc d’Uzès. Today the  Château Ducal d’Uzès , or Ducal Palace, anchors the town. Guided tours of the interior are somewhat pricey.  

transportation

The regional bus system is called Edgard. If you prefer to plan ahead, pick up schedules and tickets at the Uzès tourist office or the Nîmes and Avignon train stations. Otherwise, schedules are posted at each stop and you can purchase tickets on board. Bear in mind that Sundays mean reduced schedules. On Saturdays, when the market fills the Esplanade, the next closest stop is Le Refuge.

We prefer to avoid driving when travelling, but a car does broaden possibilities for day trips. (Arles, the Camargues, the Luberon villages, etc.) Because the historic center restricts traffic, parking can be tricky. The official city website has a  map of parking lots , albeit without rate information.

For travel by foot and bicycle check the FFRandonnée Gard website, put together by the French Hiking Federation of the Gard. Within each category – walking, hiking, biking, mountain biking – trails are classified by difficulty, distance, estimated time to complete, and special features. 

Pont du Gard

The Pont du Gard lies about 9 miles (15 km) from Uzès, and can be accessed via car, bus, bike, kayak, or foot. See our post on the  Pont du Gard and Nîmes  for more information.

The E52 line (Nîmes-St Ambroix) is the fastest line to Uzès from Nîmes; buses take about 40 minutes and leave roughly every half hour. The Nîmes-Pont St Esprit line also works but can take up to 90 minutes. 

For Avignon, take the A15; there are 5 to six buses per day and the ride takes about an hour.

Uzès day-to-day

accomodations

Plenty of choices here – there’s even a campground on the edge of town. We stayed at a great AirBnB which the owner restored himself. (Unfortunately, it’s no longer available.) The top-floor loggia let us keep tabs on the cats soaking up the sun on the tile roofs.

A foodie paradise, Uzès has haute cuisine restaurants, fresh market fare, and everything in between. We went a little crazy at the market and didn’t need much besides bakery runs, but I can vouch for the  Crêperie la Bolée . 

Besides the market , you’ll find a remarkably interesting set of shops – no touristy trinkets here – as well as a few art galleries. Our favorites included:

Cannes de Collection

Amongst the many antique shops in town, the most intriguing was an entire store full of vintage canes. Separate cases contain ivory handles, silver handles, painted ceramic handles, and so on.  Cannes de Collection , 30 Boulevard Charles Gide.

Les Céramiques de Lussan 

We were drawn in by  the display of ceramic  pintades  (guinea hens) milling about on the floor as though they were alive. Heidi Caillard began making the birds in 1968 and continues to produce new pieces, although her son has taken over production. The website has information about how to visit the factory studio and store in Lussan where they are “born.” Les Céramiques de Lussan , 6 Rue Jacques d’Uzès.

Discovering Uzès: A Gem in Southern France

By: Author Elle Croft

Categories France

Have you ever experienced the real France?

I’m not talking about the sidewalk cafes of Paris, the Eiffel Tower, or candy-coloured pastries stacked prettily in a window. What I’m referring to is the baguette-in-a-handbag-on-the-way-home-from-the-markets kind of France, usually found in tiny towns in the countryside.

And one town in particular, tucked into the gorgeous scenery of Southern France, is truly the epitome of authentic French life.

The town is Uzès, and it’s a little slice of picturesque perfection in France’s Gard region.

Arriving in Uzès in the afternoon heat, I wound my way through the tiny streets to find Hotel Entraigues , a spectacular newly-refurbished boutique hotel in the heart of town. The temperatures outside were soaring, but the hotel was an oasis of cool and calm; the perfect base for exploring the gorgeous town it calls home.

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The rooms are minimalist without being stark, and the beds are so unbelievably comfortable that I wasn’t sure how I would get up in the morning.

I had a shower to refresh after a hot day of canoeing and strolling (but with only a tiny patch of sunburn to show for it – yay!), and then made my way downstairs to the hotel restaurant. I enjoyed an exceptional meal of bouillabaise (a kind of fish stew that’s a local specialty in Southern France) that was laden with delicate saffron, accompanied by a glass of local white wine and a pineappley dessert.

It was the perfect end to a pretty incredible day (check out more about Pont du Gard and canoeing along the Gardon River ).

I’d set my alarm early to see the sunrise, although when the sound of Beyoncé woke me I seriously considered turning it off and going back to my gloriously comfortable bed. Feather pillows: I need these in my life. I knew the views would be worth it though, so I pulled the curtains open for the light to shock me from my drowsy state, and dragged myself up the stairs to the hotel’s roof terrace.

I’d made the right decision: the colours were amazing, and the view across the terra cotta tiles and deep green trees was breathtaking!

After taking a moment to gaze at the view, and snap pictures of the medieval Fenestrelle Tower across the road, I desperately needed coffee. Stopping at the restaurant again, I chatted to the lady who kindly prepared my caffeine hit for the day.

I could have chatted to her all day – she was fascinating – but it was market day in Uzès, and I wanted to catch it before the crowds arrived.

Market day in Uzès

This weekly Saturday event sees producers and artisans filling the town square, called the place aux Herbes, and lining the surrounding streets, visited by the locals and people from villages for miles around.

There’s a lot of soap, lavender and hats for sale, but that’s not all. I bought a jar of bee pollen for €5.50 (it’s something like £15 in health food shops in the UK, although I have no idea what it does) and some pastries, which I munched on happily as I walked.

It was thankfully quite cool in the morning, as the hot sun hadn’t moved high enough to peek over the city’s limestone buildings yet. I strolled down narrow lanes and admired the pastel-coloured doors and windows adorned with sweet-smelling roses.

As I took a photo of a cute antique shop, I was schooled in etiquette by a stern Frenchman who reminded me a little of my equally stern Belgian Grandpa.

Apparently it’s rude in France to take a photo without asking permission (although I’ve been to France countless times and this is the first I’ve heard of it). “Désolé, Monsieur,” I smiled, and he relented.

Things to see and do in Uzès

Casually strolling through the town’s streets is the main attraction of Uzès, but there are a few other sights that visitors can explore.

The medieval Duke’s Castle is a walled structure in the middle of the town, complete with turrets and colourfully-tiled towers. It’s a structure that could easily belong to a Disney tale – all it’s missing is a princess and a villain.

Visitors can explore the inside of the castle for €17, which includes access to the viewpoint at the top of the donjon (tower).

Another gorgeous view can be enjoyed from the top of the King’s Tower inside the 12th century Medieval Garden. You’ll find the peaceful garden behind a colourful door that’s hidden at the end of a narrow stone passageway – and entry is just €6.

After getting lost in the winding streets of Uzès, the sun began to creep in and overtake the shadows, so I retreated to the gorgeous hotel pool, complete with brightly-coloured Acapulco chairs and an Insta-worthy view.

Once again I had to drag myself away, this time to pack up the car and hit the road. It was with sadness that I watched the town of Uzès grow smaller in my rearview mirror, but I have a feeling I’ll be back.

If not for the stunning scenery and rich history, then at least for this perfect bed:

I travelled to Southern France via train, first on the Eurostar to Lyon and then the TGV (a French train) to Avignon where I picked up a rental car. Train tickets are available through voyages-sncf.com .

You can also fly directly to Lyon from Birmingham, Southampton, Edinburgh and London airports.

The Perfect Itinerary for a Weekend in Southern France

Wednesday 2nd of August 2017

[…] Find out more: Discovering Uzès: A Gem in Southern France […]

Monday 8th of August 2016

Hello Ellen- thoroughly enjoy your articles! Thank you... Wondering if you've been to/written about Italy. We are a group of 5 gf's wanting to plan a trip there but we've such diverse requirements...cooking class or two, enology, shopping, nature, history...where should we go? I've suggested a villa or b&b in an area know for gastronomy, rent a couple cars & day trip from there-but where?

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The secret side of the South of France

By Jonathan Bastable

C'est gratuit, aujourd'hui ,' said the lady driver. ' Quoi ?' 'The bus is free today,' she repeated, handing me a ticket. ' C'est la fête d'autobus .' My French is rusty so I couldn't quite believe my ears, but it was true. The day I arrived in Nîmes to catch the bus to Uzès happened to be la journée du transport public , and so no one had to pay. A busman's holiday - they really exist. While my bus was still winding its way out of Nîmes an inspector got on, kissed the driver on both cheeks by way of congratulations, and proceeded to check everyone's ticket. Why check tickets when you know everyone is riding for free? Bizarre.

I decided to walk from the bus station to my hotel, La Maison d'Uzès. I had little idea where it was, but I knew I had to cut across the old town diagonally, so I walked a short way around the outer boulevard and ducked through an archway which, I figured, must lead towards the centre ville . Bull's-eye. I emerged on to a broad square filled with plane trees and café tables and edged by a squat limestone colonnade. This was the Place aux Herbes, the beautiful heart of Uzès, and to come upon it in such a happy way was a perfect introduction. Every building in Uzès is made of the same pale and porous limestone. With its rough cuttlefish walls and creamy smooth pavements, it reminded me of Dubrovnik. And here, as in that white city, the whole of the old town is effectively a car-free zone. You walk everywhere because you have to, but it also happens to be so easy, and so enjoyable. And wherever you go in this pedestrian space, wherever you sit down for a coffee or a glass of rosé, you hear the lilting hom-di-hom of French conversation.

Uzès is in the middle of Le Gard, which is the south of France, but not the familiar Midi. 'People think of this part of the country as being all about sun and sea,' one Uzétien said to me. 'Here, inland and on the unfashionable side of the Rhône, there's something more authentic than you'll find on the coast. Uzès is a town where people live and work, where the market is for locals - not just for summer tourists.' Yet 50 years ago, the town was dying. All the old buildings were dilapidated and deserted, and no one wanted to live in them. Then the French government designated Uzès a historic town and a ville d'art , and invested money in its restoration. Once that process took hold, wealthy Americans and Australians began to buy homes here. Decent restaurants and hotels eventually followed, and now at last Uzès is a chic and upmarket spot. Brits, it seems, have yet to discover it. Although the Eurostar routes pass by less than an hour's drive away - at Avignon and Montpellier - that short journey has been enough to keep Uzès off our radar.

Two very different buildings characterise the town. One is the fenestrelle , a bell tower consisting of a series of cylinders pierced with narrow windows, rather like Pisa's campanile but without its skewy attitude. The fenestrelle is light and lacy, a doily in stone, and it looks odd tacked onto the solid massif of the church of St-Théodorit. The other dominant landmark is Le Duché, the duke's residence. The dukes of Uzès have lived in this little castle on and off for a thousand years. The present duke is the 17th, and this is his summer home. The official tour begins in the dark wine cellar, formerly a dungeon. Numerous nebuchadnezzars of Veuve Clicquot stand at random spots on the floor, like big glass skittles. In the half- light, you must take care not to stumble over them. Up in the duchy's private apartments there are portraits going back to medieval times, and coming right up to the present. It is one hell of a family album. There are dukes in powdered wigs, dukes in armour, Victorian dukes in frock-coats and 20th-century dukes in shiny tuxes. There are many pictures of the corresponding duchesses; not just paintings on the walls, but silver-framed photographs ranged on a Pleyel grand piano. Among them are some lovely Beatonesque shots of an aristocratic lady sporting a bob and wearing a cloche hat, the wife of the 14th or 15th duke, I presume.

Strong women seem to have been something of a common thread, a fil rouge in the ducal lineage. Just as the effort of following the guide's French was tiring me, she began to tell us about Anne de Mortemart, the beautiful wife of the 12th duke. Before the turn of the 20th century, she became the first woman in France to hold a driving licence and also the first to be fined for speeding (at 15km per hour). She was a gifted sculptress and a relation of the original Veuve Clicquot, hence those massive bottles in the cellar; although she was a friend of Louise Michel, the veteran anarchist of the Paris Commune, at the same time she bankrolled France's proto-fascist Boulangist movement. She was a vocal advocate of women's rights and simultaneously an unshakeable anti-Semite. Passionate about hunting, over the course of her long life she rode out hundreds of times on her own vast estates. The antlered skulls of some of her kills, neatly inscribed with the date and the composition of the hunt, adorn the walls of the dining room in Le Duché. De Mortemart was still in the saddle three weeks before her death at age 85 in 1933. She seems ripe for a biopic, starring Audrey Tautou maybe, or Sophie Marceau…

Le Gard's most impressive attraction is a 15-minute drive from Uzès. The Pont du Gard is a short section of Roman aqueduct spanning the River Gardon. When it was whole, the aqueduct fed the fountains and bathhouses of Nîmes, 31 miles from its head. It must have been awe-inspiring then, but even this surviving scrap is a dramatic sight: three courses of arches, each smaller than the one below, and all of them galumphing rhythmically across the gorge. At the top of the edifice is the covered culvert itself, in effect an aerial pipeline. It seems the watercourse used to fur up like a kettle and teams of slaves were required to walk its length, in pitch blackness, scraping the limescale off the walls as they went. As sometimes happens with functional engineering - and not necessarily ancient examples - the Pont du Gard is also an accidental work of art. The rows of arches could be seen as stylised waves or ripples, an architectural picture of the babbling, artificial river up above.

There is plenty to do in Uzès, too. I loved the medieval garden, a modern recreation situated in the walled precincts of a 12th-century ruin. The garden is divided into a herbarium (a medicinal garden), a hortus (vegetable garden) and a little corner filled with toxic plants that were used as purgatives or as the raw materials for witchcraft. In the herbarium I learned that marshmallow root has always been used to ease breathing problems, that coltsfoot cures a cough and St John's wort is good for burns. Elsewhere, I spotted a flower called a pensée sauvage in French, a 'savage thought'. Great name for a flower. I looked it up in the little multilingual glossary I had been given. A wild pansy - of course. It had never occurred to me that the English word was a corruption of the French, or that it contained the idea of remembrance in its name.

Make sure that you are in Uzès on a market day. On Wednesdays and Saturdays the Place aux Herbes is a tight maze of stalls selling all manner of bread, sausage, fish, hunting knives, olives, flowers and leather purses. I saw bewildering variations on single food themes: one stall was selling rounds of goat's cheese in a range of sizes, looking like the elements of some tiny drum kit. Most of the cheeses were plain, chalky white; others were adorned with lavender petals or spiky herbs or red peppercorns. One chèvre , labelled ' l'introuvable ', was black and wizened with age, and as pungent as all the others put together. There was lots of street food to be had: roast chickens turning on closed spits as potatoes fried in the fat that dripped to the bottom; paella piled in pans as wide as helicopter pads; vans selling nems (spring rolls) and accras (fritters made of shrimp or beans). The aromas were incredibly appetising. They amounted to what one French novelist has called a voyage olfactif , a nose-led journey through the cuisine and produce of Le Gard.

Despite the crush on the square, some cafés managed to set out a few tables where locals sat with their coffees and ate market-bought croissants out of the bag. But by 2pm, it was all over. The square slowly emptied out, the fishmongers leaving piles of ice behind, which melted swiftly into the sun-warmed flagstones as the traders headed home. I too went home, but came back to the square later to catch the custard-yellow dusk. I sat there till the sky turned a deep blue, and fairy lights came to life in the canopies of the maple trees; somewhere out there in the gloaming a busker played a plangent tune on a classical guitar. I saw couples of all ages wander by, hand in hand, or arm in arm, or clinging to each other around the waist. I noticed that oncoming strollers always stepped aside, because they knew instinctively that it would not beright to make lovers part, not on any level and not for a moment.

Where to stay

La Maison d'Uzes Nothing is too much trouble at this new hotel where the staff still glow with enthusiasm. Each room in the 17th-century building is different. Breakfast, taken in the courtyard, includes a little pain au raisin the size of an old half-crown, ham and cheese sliced so incredibly thin that they fold like raw silk, and segments of orange and grapefruit arranged like starfish on the plate. +39 4 66 20 07 00; www.lamaisonduzes.fr . Doubles from about £175

L'Albiousse This small B&B occupies a lovely 16th-century house known in this part of France as an hôtel - although L'Albiousse is the only such place in Uzès that functions as a hotel in the English sense of the word. The bedrooms are decorated with exquisite good taste. 'We thought we were choosing contemporary colours,' says Gwilym Cox, the Welsh-born owner. 'But it turns out the muted shades of green and grey are very 16th-century.' +39 4 66 59 15 74; www.albiousse.fr . Doubles from about £130

L'Artemise A 15-minute stroll out of town, this place looks out over the beautiful Eure Valley. Each room has a contemporary-art theme. One is full of photographic portraits; another, Marilyn, contains pastiches and variations on Warhol's Monroe pictures. And there's a staircase with a spellbinding anamorphosis by Georges Rousse. +39 6 38 12 59 86; www.lartemise.fr . Doubles from about £180

WHERE TO Eat and drink

La Table d'Uzès Top-flight fine dining at La Maison d'Uzès. The chef, Oscar Garcia, is just 25 but he is rapidly turning this into a real destination restaurant. Starters include hake served in a ring of tomato salsa with a scarlet lagoon of gazpacho. The cheese board - actually a trolley - is a thing of beauty. The waiter gives a brief history of each of the dozen cheeses, serves up three or four, then wheels it away, trailing pungent aromas in his wake. +39 4 66 20 07 00; www.lamaisonduzes.fr . About £120 for two

Myou This hard-to-find fish restaurant is tucked in the lee of St Etienne church, next to the house where André Gide's distinguished uncle Charles once lived (the writer spent his boyhood holidays here in Uzès). Go for lunch and have the punchy, caramel-coloured soupe de poisson. +39 4 66 72 23 32; www.restaurantmyou.com . About £50 for two

Ma Cantine For good, honest French home cooking rather than haute cuisine, head to this café-bar where the menu is propped up against the nearest tree on the boulevard. The friendly patron really knows his wine; sit with a glass of something chilled and dry, munch on anchovy toasts and watch the world pass by. +39 4 66 01 00 07. About £30 for two

Le Bec A Vin A very cosy and classy restaurant that's perfect for a quiet dinner. Indoors there is a vaulted dining room, but go on a warm evening and sit in the secluded courtyard. The food is highly sophisticated and deeply French: foie gras with port, chutney, red fruits and vanilla; tartare de coeur de rumpsteak; and then the odd Anglophile note: crumble de pommes. +39 4 66 22 41 20; www.lebecavin.com . About £55 for two; set lunch about £30 for two

Millezime Choose this place to try the regional cuisine of Le Gard served with a knowing contemporary twist. Soup comes in a crisp, bowl-shaped crepe; pâté on a rectangular slate, with a black stripe of pepper and an adjacent white stripe of salt in one corner. Mains are hearty and meaty: boar, bull, duck leg and chicken in a pot. +39 4 66 22 27 82; www.restaurant-millezime.fr . About £50 for two

Place aux Herbes The cafés on this square are all good for an early-evening drink, a late nightcap, or an easy lunch. Terroirs (No 5) serves mostly open sandwiches. La Suédoise comes with smoked salmon and crème fraîche, La Lozérienne is piled with mushrooms and smoked duck. Le Bananier (No 16) is the place for salads or lingering with a cup of coffee. L'Oustal (No 23) is a simple café with a slight Spanish accent.

Head for Haribo if it's a rainy day and you have children in tow. The Musée du Bonbon is just outside town. While you are in the area, pop into the Atelier du Café where wonderful varieties of coffee are roasted and ground in the traditional manner on the premises. You could drive to the Pont du Gard visitor centre, but a much better option is to go to Bégude St Pierre and leave your car in the dusty car park near the hotel. It's a pleasant half-hour walk to the gorge, down country roads and through a wood strewn with half-buried, crumbled scraps of the Roman aqueduct.

Potter about some of Le Gard's ceramics-producing villages. St Quentin la Poterie is a short drive away and has lots of interesting factory outlets. Catch a festival : the calendar is full of them. It's truffles in January, storytelling in June, world music in July and night markets in August. The fête votive also takes place in August; it's a carnival involving bull running and other bull-related excitement. But the cooler days of spring and autumn are the most pleasant time to visit Uzès.

Check out the Musée d'Uzès in the town to see its odd hotchpotch of historical bricolage: a pair of boots with rows of blades on the bottom (like shark teeth) for shelling chestnuts; some of the ugliest Victorian ceramics you will ever see; an overcoat and scarf that once belonged to Nobel laureate André Gide.

This feature first appeared in Condé Nast Traveller September 2014

A shop sign

The steam room at Le Clos du Léthé

A street in Uzès

A terrace at L'Albiousse

Krystin Arneson

Sarah James

Olivia Morelli

Tuna tartar with cured beef at L'Artemise

A view from the Duché

Park du Duché

Place aux Herbes

Pont du Gard

Retro pieces at Axis

A saucisson stall

Sea bream with pea purée

La Maison d'Uzès

Le Bec à Vin courtyard

Les Affaires Etrangères shop

The Medieval Garden in Uzès

Monkfish with black rice at Le Bec à Vin

A bedroom at L'Albiousse

A berry charlotte at Ma Cantine

Uzès café culture

A cheese stall

A view of the valley from L'Artemise hotel

Antiques at L'Albiousse B&B, Uzès

Art installation by the French artist Georges Rousse in L'Artemise hotel