moldova travel

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Moldova Travel Guide

Last Updated: September 2, 2023

Moldova, a small, land-locked Eastern European country tucked between Ukraine and Romania , is one of Europe’s most overlooked destinations. It sees just over 300,000 visitors each year and is one of the least visited destinations in the world. Compared to European hotspots like Spain and France, which each welcome over 80 million visitors each year, Moldova is relatively untouched and undiscovered.

Composed of rocky hills, dense forests, and a historic wine region, Moldova is a country that surprises. Sure, if you visit expecting the UNESCO Heritage Sites and epic world wonders of Western Europe you’ll likely be disappointed.

However, if you keep an open mind, learn about the country’s turbulent history, and get off the beaten path, I’m confident you’ll have an amazing (and affordable) trip.

This travel guide to Moldova can help you plan your trip, save money, and make the most of your time in this underrated destination!

Table of Contents

• Things to See and Do
• Typical Costs
• Suggested Budget
• Money-Saving Tips
• Where to Stay
• How to Get Around
• How to Stay Safe
• Best Places to Book Your Trip
• Related Blogs on Moldova

Top 5 Things to See and Do in Moldova

1. Explore Chisinau

Chisinau is Moldova’s capital and the gateway to the country for most visitors. Here you can find classic (and grim) Soviet architecture (as well as 1950s Brutalist architecture), beautiful Soviet mosaics, plenty of green spaces and cafes, lots of interesting museums, and fun nightlife. Wander around the center and visit the Triumphal Arch, built in 1840 to symbolize the Russian victory over the Ottoman Empire. Check out the Nativity Cathedral, designed by Abraham Melnikov, with its impressive Russian Neoclassical interior complete with an enormous dome and exterior columns supporting the facade. If you want to relax, head to Stefan cel Mare Central Park where you can grab a coffee, wander around, take in the scenery or read the day away on one of the benches.

2. Check out Bender

Bender (also known as Bendery in Russian as well as Tighina in Romanian) is located on the western bank of the Dniester River near the Bendery–Tiraspol bridge just one hour from Chisinau. This city is under de-facto rule by the breakaway state Transnistria (which has an ongoing ceasefire with Moldova so it’s safe), which declared independence from Moldova in 1990. Visit the impressive Turkish Ottoman Fortress from the 16th century that remained for centuries under rule by Romanians, Russians, and Moldovans for 25 rubles.

3. Sample the wine

Moldovan wine is considered to be some of the best in the world (it’s the 11th largest producer in Europe and 20th in the world). In fact, one-quarter of the country works with wine in some way in this tradition that dates back to 3000 BCE. In 2017, the government of Moldova actually declared wine a food so it could be sold in stores after 10pm. Every year in October, the capital holds a wine celebration. Balti, Codru, Purcari, and Cahul are the four main wine regions. Expect to pay around 175-350 MDL for a winery tour (including samples).

4. Tour Tiraspol

Tiraspol is the largest city in the breakaway Transnistrian republic (and the second-largest in all of Moldova). Located on the eastern bank of the Nistru River, the city itself remains largely unchanged from the Soviet era. However, there are tons of Soviet monuments you can visit near the Palace of the Soviets. There is also a huge memorial at Glory at Suvorov Square in commemoration of World War II, the Soviet-Afghan War, and the Transnistria War (1990-1992). If you’ve done enough sightseeing, head over to the award-winning Kvint Cognac distillery.

5. Explore Transnistria

Transnistria is located between Moldova and Ukraine and a breakaway state since its independence from Moldova in 1990 before the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991. Visit the capital of Tiraspol and check out the colorful Noul Neamt Monastery with its classic Russian Orthodox style and beautiful blue domes. With almost 500,000 people and spanning just over 4,000 square kilometers, Transnistria has its own president, national flag, and even its own currency. Random spot checks by the Russian military can occur so make sure you have your ID. One important thing to note is that Tiraspol Airport isn’t allowed to have international flights so you can only arrive by bus or train from Ukraine or Moldova.

Other Things to See and Do in Moldova

1. relax in naslavcea.

Naslavcea village is one of the most picturesque spots in Moldova (the locals call it the “Switzerland of Moldova”). Located in the northernmost part of the country and on the banks of the Dniester River, there are tons of mountainous hiking trails and viewpoints, and caves here. If you want nature, this is the part of the country for you!

2. Explore the Autonomous Territorial Unit of Gagauzia

The Autonomous Territorial Unit of Gagauzia is located in the southern part of Moldova. It declared independence from Moldova in 1991 and is a fascinating place to learn more about the Gagauz people, who make up 70% of the population here. Head for the capital Comrat and visit some of the city’s museums to learn how this region came into its own. The National Gagauz History Museum and the Ethnographic Museum both shed light on the region and culture and how this autonomous territory came to be (it’s currently in a truce with Moldova, though they have warred in the past). They also have some of the oldest (and largest) wineries in all of Moldova.

3. Visit Orheiul Vechi

Located 60 kilometers (37 miles) north of Chisinau, this is an archaeological and ecclesiastical complex. Also known as Old Orhei, it’s a cave monastery home to ruins and cave paintings that date back more than 2,000 years. The monastery is still in use and the monks maintain the site as well as the nearby Orthodox church. Dress respectfully as this is a place of worship.

4. Tour the National Archaeology & History Museum

Opened in 1983, there are over 263,000 items in this collection. They have a 2,000-year-old fired-clay Sarmatian urn shaped like a ram, an entire floor devoted to the Soviet era, sculptures that date back to 4 BCE (they’re the oldest objects ever found in the Bessarabia region), and weapons and armor that date to the 5th century BCE. Admission is 10 MDL but admission is free on the last Saturday and Sunday of the month.

5. Wander the open-air market

Piata Central is an open-air market located in the heart of Chisinau. It spans several blocks and you can find pretty much everything here, from fresh produce to clothing to souvenirs and trinkets. Most of the products here are locally produced so look out for things like raw honey, wine, and brandy. Remember, in Moldova prices are always negotiable so don’t be afraid to barter. Open Tuesday-Sunday from 7am-6:30 pm.

6. Explore the Bendery Fortress

Built during the Ottoman era, this massive 16th-century fortress had the sole purpose of protecting the area from invading Russian forces. With spectacular views of the Dniester River, the grounds surrounding the building are just as impressive as the fortress itself. For decades during the occupation by the USSR, the fort was used as a military base and was off-limits to the public. Today, you’re free to walk the ramparts and explore the narrow tunnels of the fort as it’s intact and well-maintained. Admission is 25 MDL and tours start at 75 MDL.

7. Find Moldova’s Little Prince statue

The Little Prince is a well-known character from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s book Le Petit Prince . The statue can be a little tricky to find thanks to its size (it’s less than 4 inches tall) but it can be found standing on a metal fence in Valea Morilor Park by the lake (it replaces one of the spheres in the fence posts). The concept behind the artwork is that each of the spheres is a representation of each of the planets in the novel. The Little Prince is standing on top of his home planet of asteroid “B-612.”

8. Relax in the oldest park of Moldova

Stefan cel Mare Central Park (Stephen the Great Central Park) is the oldest park in Moldova. The park is a perfect example of landscape gardening from the 19th century. There’s a huge central fountain surrounded by flowers and manicured shrubs and the walkways are lined by trees. Spanning 17 acres, the park has monuments and sculptures dedicated to important figures in Moldova’s history, such as poet and playwright Alexander Pushkin and Prince Stephen the Great. There is also a monument and mass grave for Soviet soldiers who died during World War II.

9. See Soroca Fortress

This fortress was one of the many strongholds of Stephen the Great in 1499. Located in the present-day city of Soroca, it was used to defend the region from the Ottomans, and later from the Russians in the 18th century. The castle has a distinctly Western European design, which has left historians to believe that architects and engineers from the west were brought to the region to help with its design and construction. Built in a circle, the castle has four massive stone towers and curved walls to better resist projectiles. There’s a spacious central courtyard and numerous loopholes for firing weapons. The walls are 3 meters (10 feet) thick and there are several areas for artillery. It’s currently closed for renovations.

10. Visit the Military Museum

Located in the capital, this museum has a sobering and insightful exhibition on Soviet repression during the occupation. It illuminates the forced famines, deportations, and slave labor used by the regime. There are videos, photos, dioramas, and newspaper articles that bring the era to life. Most of it isn’t in English, however, it nevertheless offers insight into just how horrific conditions were under the USSR. Admission is 10 MDL. Closed Mondays.

11. See the Triumphal Arch

Known as the Holy Gate, the Triumphal Arch is a monument in the center of Chisinau. Dating back to the 1840s, it commemorates Russia’s victory over the Ottoman Empire during the Russo-Turkish War (1828–29). Standing 13 meters (43 feet) tall, it’s sort of like a mini Arc de Triomphe.

Moldova Travel Costs

Accommodation – Hostel dorms are your cheapest option in Moldova, starting at around 250 MDL per night for a 10-20-bed dorm. Free Wi-Fi and kitchens are pretty standard and a few hostels also include free breakfast. There aren’t a lot of options here when it comes to hostels so be sure to book early.

Budget hotels start around 700 MDL per night. Expect your accommodation to be comfortable but a little outdated in its decor. TV, coffee/tea, and free breakfast are all pretty standard.

Airbnb is really only available in Chisinau and Tiraspol, although there are a few places in Balti. Private rooms start at 600 MDL per night but average 800-1,000 MDL. For an entire home or apartment, expect to pay a minimum of 770-1,300 MDL per night (though it’s more likely to be 2,000 MDL or more unless you book early).

For anyone traveling with a tent, wild camping is free and safe on public land. Just use common sense and avoid staying too close to someone’s house, pick up all your trash, and leave everything as you found it.

For a basic plot at a campground without electricity, expect to pay around 150-200 MDL. There are only a handful of sites around the country, however, making wild camping the easier (and cheaper) option.

Food – Influenced by Russian, Romanian, and Turkish cuisine, in Moldova the portions are large and the food is incredibly affordable. Beef, pork, potatoes, and cabbage are the most common staples here. Mamaliga (a cornmeal porridge), ghiveci (lamb/goat stew), and branza (brined cheese) are just some of the popular local offerings.

For an inexpensive meal of local cuisine, expect to pay at least 120 MDL. Fast food (think McDonald’s) can only be found in the capital. A combo meal costs 100 MDL.

Sandwiches cost around 60 MDL. Pizza can be found in a few of the larger cities for as little as 90-100 MDL for a medium. Asian food (such as Chinese or Thai) can only be found in the capital. Expect to pay around 80-110 MDL for a meal.

A three-course meal at a restaurant serving traditional cuisine costs 225 MDL. If you’re on the go, try placinte , a cheese-filled pastry that can be found at bakeries and cafes around the country.

Expect to pay between 25-40 MDL for a beer at the bar or cappuccino at a cafe. A bottle of wine costs just 70 MDL.

If you are planning to cook your own food, a week’s worth of groceries costs around 400 MDL for staples like meat, pasta, rice, and seasonal produce.

Backpacking Moldova Suggested Budgets

On a backpacker budget of 700 MDL per day, you can stay in a hostel dorm, cook a few meals and eat a few meals out, limit your drinking, take public transportation to get around, and do mostly free activities like hiking. If you camp, you can cut this down to around 450 MDL.

On a mid-range budget of about 1,800 MDL per day, you can stay in a private Airbnb, eat out for all your meals at cheap restaurants, enjoy a few drinks, take the occasional taxi to get around, and do more paid activities like visiting museums or taking a wine tour.

On a “luxury” budget of 2,900 MDL per day or more, you can eat out anywhere you want, drink more, rent a car to get around, and do whatever tours and activities you want. This is just the ground floor for luxury though. The sky is the limit!

You can use the chart below to get some idea of how much you need to budget daily, depending on your travel style. Keep in mind these are daily averages — some days you’ll spend more, some days you’ll spend less (you might spend less every day). We just want to give you a general idea of how to make your budget. Prices are in MDL.

Moldova Travel Guide: Money-Saving Tips

Moldova is a relatively cheap country but, if you’re looking to save some money, here are some added ways to cut costs:

• Take a free walking tour – Chisinau and Tiraspol both have free walking tours led by local guides. They’re a good way to get introduced to the city and its history and culture. Just be sure to tip your guide at the end!
• Wild camp – If you really want to save money in Moldova, wild camping is perfectly legal and safe on public land.
• Cook your own meals – Book accommodation that has a kitchen so you can cook your own meals. Buying groceries may not be as glamorous as going out to eat, but it does save you money.
• Stay with a local – Staying with a local via Couchsurfing is a great way to save money and connect with a local who can share their tips and advice. There aren’t a ton of hosts here, though you can likely find one in the capital if you look in advance.
• Walk everywhere – All of the major cities in Moldova are quite walkable, so skip the public transportation if you want to save. Skip the taxis too!
• Enjoy the free spaces – There are plenty of free parks as well as many free hiking trails around the country. Save your budget and enjoy the outdoors!
• Bring a water bottle – The tap water here is safe to drink so bring a reusable water bottle to save money and reduce your plastic use. LifeStraw is my go-to brand as their bottles have built-in filters to ensure your water is always clean and safe.

Where to Stay in Moldova

In general, hostels are few and far between in Moldova. Here are some of my favorite places to stay in Chisinau and Tiraspol:

• Amazing Ionika Hostel (Chisinau)
• Like Home (Tiraspol)

How to Get Around Moldova

Bus – Chisinau has three bus stations that link every city and region in the country. Departures don’t necessarily occur on time and the roads can be a little bumpy. Minibusses (usually with 15 or so seats) are the fastest way to get around, although larger coach buses are a little safer since they generally travel at slower speeds.

The two-hour journey from Chisinau to Tiraspol costs around 50 MDL. You can reach pretty much any city in the country from the capital for under 150 MDL.

Train – Trains in Moldova are reliable and safe, albeit a little outdated (they are mostly older Soviet-era trains). While buses run more often and are more affordable for domestic travel, trains are a good choice for anyone looking to travel to nearby countries.

The overnight train to Bucharest, Romania takes 9 hours and costs 510 MDL. Cabins with beds (and bedding) are available for longer journeys.

Flying – There are no domestic flights within Moldova.

Car rental – Car rentals can be as low as 500 MDL per day for a multi-day rental. You need an International Driver’s Permit (IDP), as well as proper insurance, as the roads here are far from ideal.

For the best car rental prices, use Discover Cars .

When to Go to Moldova

If you’re planning to hike and get out into nature, April-May or September-October are the best times to visit as everything is either in bloom or the leaves are changing color. Autumn is also when the vineyards harvest their grapes. Expect temperatures around 10°-15°C (50-59°F).

The high season is July and August. This is the most popular time to visit. During these months the temperatures rise and there are slightly more tourists around. Expect daily highs between 20-27°C (68-81°F).

Winter is from November to March and temperatures drop to around -4°C (23°F). Almost no tourists visit during the winter (the Soviet cities look particularly grim in the gray winter weather). I’d skip a winter visit if you can avoid it.

How to Stay Safe in Moldova

Violent crime against tourists is rare in Moldova, however, scams and pick-pocketing are common in the cities, especially around high-traffic areas in Chisinau such as bus stations. If someone strikes up a conversation with you trying to sell something or if young children approach you, be on alert — their accomplice is likely reaching for your wallet while you’re distracted.

ATM scams are also common here. Whenever possible avoid using ATMs on the street to withdraw money. Only use ATMs within banks to be safe.

Crimes of opportunity are the most common danger here so as long as you keep your valuables out of sight you likely won’t have any trouble. This applies to crowded buses and trains too.

If you’re worried about getting ripped off, you can read about common travel scams to avoid here.

If you rent a car, make sure you leave no valuables in it overnight. Break-ins are rare but they can occur so it’s better to be safe than sorry.

If you experience an emergency, dial 903 for an ambulance and 902 for the police.

The most important piece of advice I can offer is to purchase good travel insurance. Travel insurance protects you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. You can use the widget below to find the policy right for you:

Moldova Travel Guide: The Best Booking Resources

These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.

• Skyscanner – Skyscanner is my favorite flight search engine. They search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites tend to miss. They are hands down the number one place to start.
• Hostelworld – This is the best hostel accommodation site out there with the largest inventory, best search interface, and widest availability.
• Booking.com – The best all around booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. In all my tests, they’ve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
• HostelPass – This new card gives you up to 20% off hostels throughout Europe. It’s a great way to save money. They’re constantly adding new hostels too. I’ve always wanted something like this and glad it finallt exists.
• Get Your Guide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions. They have tons of tour options available in cities all around the world, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, street art lessons, and more!
• The Man in Seat 61 – This website is the ultimate guide to train travel anywhere in the world. They have the most comprehensive information on routes, times, prices, and train conditions. If you are planning a long train journey or some epic train trip, consult this site.
• Rome2Rio – This website allows you to see how to get from point A to point B the best and cheapest way possible. It will give you all the bus, train, plane, or boat routes that can get you there as well as how much they cost.
• FlixBus – Flixbus has routes between 20 European countries with prices starting as low 5 EUR! Their buses include WiFi, electrical outlets, a free checked bag.
• SafetyWing – Safety Wing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to digital nomads and long-term travelers. They have cheap monthly plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road.
• LifeStraw – My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
• Unbound Merino – They make lightweight, durable, easy-to-clean travel clothing.
• Top Travel Credit Cards – Points are the best way to cut down travel expenses. Here’s my favorite point earning credit cards so you can get free travel!

Moldova Travel Guide: Related Articles

Want more info? Check out all the articles I’ve written on backpacking/traveling Europe and continue planning your trip:

The 7 Best Hotels in Madrid

The 6 Best Hotels in Vienna

The Best Walking Tours in Barcelona

How to Be a Digital Nomad in Europe

The Best eSIM for Traveling Europe

The 6 Best Hotels in Athens

Get my best stuff sent straight to you, pin it on pinterest.

• Where To Stay
• Transportation
• Booking Resources
• Related Blogs

Getty Images/Lonely Planet Images

The world is finally waking up to the charms of this little nation wedged between Romania and Ukraine. Moldova was famously dubbed the world's least happy place in a bestselling book in 2008, but today it's better known for its unspoiled countryside and superb wine tours. As one of Europe’s least visited countries, Moldova retains a measure of roads-less-travelled charm. But that’s changing quickly as budget flights from Western Europe take off.

Your next trip starts here

Go from dreaming to planning with trip planning options made to help you craft your ideal itinerary.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Orheiul Vechi

The archaeological and ecclesiastical complex at Orheiul Vechi (Old Orhei), about 50km north of Chişinău, is an important historical site and a place of…

Tipova Cave Monastery

The fantastic Tipova Cave Monastery is built into cliffs that tower some 200m above the Dniestr River's right (west) bank, in the tiny village of Tipova…

Bendery Fortress

This impressive Ottoman fortress, outside the centre near the Bendery–Tiraspol bridge, was built in the 16th century and saw keen fighting between Turkish…

Soroca Fortress

This gloriously solid behemoth on the Dniestr dates to the late 15th century and the reign of Moldavian Prince Ştefan cel Mare. It was built on the…

Cave Monastery

The most impressive sight at Orheiul Vechi is the Cave Monastery, built inside a cliff high above the gently meandering Răut river. It is marked by a…

Nativity of Christ Metropolitan Cathedral

The main highlight of the Parcul Catedralei is the city's main Moldovan Orthodox church, dating from the 1830s, with rich interior frescoes. The bell…

National Museum of Ethnography & Natural History

The highlight of this massive and wonderful exhibition is a life-sized reconstruction of the skeleton of a dinothere – an 8-tonne elephant-like mammal…

Army Museum

Occupying one end of the Centre of Culture and Military History, this once-musty museum now hosts a moving exhibit on Soviet-era repression. Stories of…

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Moldova and beyond

The Ultimate Moldova Travel Guide

Updated November 2023,   The Ultimate Moldova Travel Guide was originally written in May 2018

You’ve arrived, this is off the beaten track Europe! Landlocked and sandwiched nicely between Ukraine and Romania, with a breakaway territory to boot- this is Moldova. Moldova is one of the least visited countries in all of Europe (San Marino and Lichtenstein seem to be the only lesser-visited countries).

But why go if no one else is? That’s part of the beauty. You won’t find hoards of tourists here, the wines are some of the best in Europe,  ancient monasteries tucked away in caves , the people friendly, the capital is lively & bustling, your money will take you far as Moldova is a relatively inexpensive destination, and you can even take a step back in time to the Soviet-era with a visit to  Transnistria .

I have now visited Moldova twice: once in 2012 and again in 2017, which is a bit unusual as most who visit Moldova do so to tick it off the list with no intent to ever return. Oddly enough I quite enjoy my time in Moldova whether I’m exploring monasteries tucked into cliff-sides, cheersing glasses of wines with new Moldovan friends, eating as many langos at the bazaar I can possibly fit in my mouth, hiking across the rolling hills of Moldova’s countryside, making friends with Transnistrians using my limited Russian language skills, or just wandering the streets of Chișinău.

The blog posts I have come across about Moldova (there are very few!) seem to really fixate on the opinion that it is boring, ugly, harsh, and poor. Of course, if you don’t like the peculiar and utilitarian designs of Soviet architecture you’ll find it ugly if you don’t take the time to befriend a few Moldovans and really try to explore the place you’ll likely find it boring, and well, there’s no hiding that Moldova isn’t the wealthiest nation (however, it’s not the world’s poorest either… just Europe’s).

One difference I noticed from the span between my two visits is that Moldovans seem to be more hopeful about their country’s future than they were in 2012. So if you have a penchant for orthodox churches, meeting friendly locals, sparkling wine, Soviet-style architecture, and breakaway territories you should probably make that trip to Moldova.

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Moldova has had strong ties to Romania throughout history, which traces back to the 1350s when the Principality of Moldavia was founded. The Principality of Moldavia encompassed much of the land that modern-day Moldova (as well as Romania) sits on.

Nearly 200 years later Moldavia would be incorporated into the Ottoman Empire until the early 1800’s when one of many Russo-Turkish Wars would see that Bessarabia is annexed to the Russian Empire. Bessarabia accounts for what is largely modern-day Moldova.

By November 1917 Bessarabia became the Moldavian Democratic Republic and briefly had independence before uniting with Romania in March of 1918. In 1940 Moldavia would be annexed yet again, this time from Romania to the USSR. Moldova remained a republic of the Soviet Union until the dissolution of the USSR in 1991.

On August 27, 1991, Moldova officially declared independence from the Soviet Union. By March of 1992 fighting intensified between Moldova and the region of Transnistria, which would later become the Russian-backed separatist region.

A cease-fire was declared on July 21, 1992, and from that point forward Transnistria has operated as a de facto independent republic called the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic. This still to this day remains unresolved.

So that is a half-arsed speedy version of the history of Moldova. If you want a better explanation of the history of Moldova, you could  purchase this book .

Practical Information

The official currency of Moldova is the  Moldovan Leu , abbreviated:  MDL . You can easily withdraw leu out of the ATMs around the country or exchange foreign currency at banks. At the time of writing ( April 2024 ) the current exchange rates are:

• $1 USD = 17.63 MDL
• €1 EUR = 19.12 MDL
• 1 RON = 3.84 MDL
• ₴1 UAH= 0.46 MDL
• ₽1 RUB = 0.19 MDL

In the breakaway region of Transnistria, the  Transnistrian Ruble  is the official currency, abbreviated  PRB . Since Transnistria is not recognized as a country (except for in Abkhazia, Republic of Artsakh {formerly  Nagorno-Karabakh }, and South Ossetia), its currency is not of any use outside Transnistria.

Make sure to exchange any leftover Transnistrian Rubles to another currency before departing, apart from maybe a few souvenir Rubles. In 2014 composite plastic coins were introduced in the 1, 3, 5, and 10 ruble denominations. As of  April 2024 , the current exchange rates are:

• $1 USD = 16.10 PRB
• €1 EUR = 17.40 PRB
• ₴1 UAH = 0.41 PRB
• ₽1 RUB = 0.17 PRB
• 1 MDL = 0.88 PRB

For the most up to date exchange rates on the Transnistrian Rouble check the Bank Pridnestrovia website .

The official language in Moldova is Moldovan, but standard Moldovan is essentially identical to Romanian. Regionally recognized languages include Gaugaz and Ukrainian. Russian is widely understood for the obvious reason that Moldova was a republic of the USSR.

In the region of Transnistria Russian is the main language, but Moldovan and Ukrainian are spoken as well. English is becoming a more popular foreign language among younger Moldovans to learn at school (as well as French), but you will find it helpful to at least know a few words and phrases in Moldovan/Romanian or Russian.

How long to visit Moldova

Moldova is nice and small, making it easy to hit the highlights in a short amount of time. In one week you can easily take in Chișinău, a winery or two,  Orheiul Vechi , as well as pay a  visit to Transnistria . In two weeks you could add on visits to Soroca and the north of Moldova as well as the Gagauz region.

Best time to visit Moldova

The most popular time to visit Moldova is in July & August with wine tours, hiking, and camping in full swing, but be warned- it’s really hot! May & June, as well as September, can be pleasant months to visit with warm weather.

October tends to start getting chilly but it is a popular time to visit as the National Wine Day Festival kicks off the first weekend of the month. November-March can be downright cold but will give you a chance to see the country blanketed in frost, and surely you’ll be hard-pressed to run into other tourists.

Need more convincing? Read:  10 reasons to visit Moldova

How to get around in Moldova

The most common way to travel around Moldova is by minibus (marshrutka), these are 15 passenger vans that leave when full and you just tell the driver when you want to get off. Buses connect most cities in Moldova as well, they are just a little slower than travel by marshrutka.

It is possible to hire taxis to get around in Moldova. Note that the capital, Chișinău is the main hub for travel in Moldova.

How to get to Moldova

By plane, train, or bus. Flights connect Chișinău with Moscow, Bucharest, Istanbul, Frankfurt, Vienna, Warsaw, and several other European cities. There are daily trains connecting Moldova with Romania (Bucharest) and Ukraine (Odessa & beyond).

By bus, you can reach Moldova from many cities in Ukraine and Romania as well as Russia. The most frequent bus journeys are to Odessa, Brasov, Moscow, and Kiev. Of course, if you have your own vehicle you can drive yourself to Moldova.

Passport holders from the EU, CIS, USA, Australia, New Zealand, UK, Canada, Japan, S. Korea, Hong Kong, Chile, Ecuador, Israel, Singapore, Seychelles, Malaysia, Turkey, and several non-EU European countries can enter Moldova for up to 90 days visa-free.

Entering Transnistria will require you to obtain a migration card, which you can get on arrival at the border. Read more on the  Transnistrian Migration Card here .

Where to go in Moldova

The most common places for travelers to visit in Moldova are Chișinău,  Orheiul Vechi , and  Tiraspol  (Transnistria). The underground wine cellars of Cricova and Mileștii Mici are also popular destinations and easy day trips from Chisinau. If you have the time and want to veer off the beaten path in Moldova (which is easy!), try the colorful city of Soroca, Comrat- the capital of semiautonomous Gaugazia, and the lavender fields of Cobusca Nouă . 

Chișinău & Around

Chișinău is the capital and largest city in Moldova, with the majority of attractions that most tourists to Moldova visit within a day trips distance.

Chișinău has a reputation for being boring, grey, depressing, and dingy. But take the time to explore the city, sample the restaurants & bars, hang out in the leafy green parks, and make some local friends and you’ll find the capital anything but boring. You’ll stumble across many of the city’s attractions along B-dul Ştefan cel Mare (Chișinău’s main avenue) and nearby.

A few things to see while in Chișinău include: Cathedral & Ştefan cel Mare Park, Arc de Triomph, Ciuflea Monastery, Piata Centrala, Rose Valley Park, The Artisan Market, Valea Morilor Park, St. Teodora de la Sihla Church, Riscani Park, Moldova National Opera & Ballet Theater, Botanica Park, National Archaeology & History Museum, Pushkin Museum, Military Museum, and the National Ethnographic & Nature Museum.

Make sure and try out some local foods and hit up some of Chișinău’s best restaurants and bars while you’re in the city. Some tasty restaurants to try out are  Vatra Neamului ,  Propaganda Cafe , and  La Placinte .

My favorite spot for quick local foods is from the food stalls at Piata Centrala. Make sure to try the brânză langos and cartofi langos with a glass of cvas.

If you’re in need of a place to stay in Chisinau try the Hostel City Center if you’re on a budget or the Radisson Blu Leogrande Chisinau if you’re looking to splurge.

Check Out Chisinau Tours

• 2 Day Chisinau & Moldova Foodie Tour

• Price: $164.19
• 3 hour Chisinau City Group Bike Tour

• Price: $45.00
• Private Half Day City Tour of Chisinau

• Price: $122.51

Orheiul Vechi

Orheiul Vechi  is an Eastern Orthodox Monastery built into a limestone cliff along the Raut River, just a short marshrutka ride from Piata Centrala in Chișinău. Make sure and grab a marshrutka signed for Butaceni or Trebujeni, as the ones signed for Orhei, will take you to the town of Orhei which is quite far away. You can easily make a half-day trip of Orheiul Vechi from Chișinău, learn how you can visit for 53 MDL on public transport in my  How to Visit Orheiul Vechi Guide .

For those that don't want to deal with the hassle of getting to Orheiul Vechi on their own, you can  book a tour of the monastery here .

If you would like to stay in the countryside out here try  Villa Roz  or  Krolichya Ferma  in nearby Trebujeni, or  Resedinta Rotundu  in Butaceni.

Check out my  guide on how to get to Orheiul Vechi

Day Trips To Old Orhei

• Tour of Orheiul Vechi & Curchi Monastery

• Price: $185.00
• Walking Tour of Molovata & Old Orhei

• Price: $114.93
• Old Orhei & Kurki Monastry Tour

• Price: $170.50

Cricova is a town 15 km north of Chișinău, famous for its underground wine cellar and winery of the same name. The tour of the wine cellars is well worth the trip out here. Tours are about an hour long and run from 10 am to 9 pm for 350 MDL per person, with a special early morning 9 am tour Monday through Friday for only 185 MDL per person.

For an extra 150 MDL each you can bring home a souvenir of 1 bottle of sparkling wine and 1 bottle of red or white wine. Make sure and call ahead of time to schedule your tour at +373 (22) 453659 . You can have your hostel/hotel call you a taxi from Chișinău, a taxi should not cost more than 115 MDL each way (expect to pay 400-450 MDL for a taxi roundtrip that waits for you).

If you want to book a full package including transport, cellar tour and tasting  click here .

For those wanting to spend the night out here in Cricova, check out the newly opened and stylishly modern  Hotel Gio Wine .  Vila Family  is a great option for those on a smaller budget.

Cricova Wine Tours

• Cricova Tour from Chisinau

• Price: $66.94
• Chisinau Tour + Cricova Winery

• Price: $119.98
• One Day Bike Tour to Cricova

Mileștii Mici

Mileștii Mici is a former mine turned Guinness World Record largest underground wine cellar. Mileștii Mici is located in Ialoveni, about 11 km southwest of Chișinău.

The hours are M-F 9 am- 5 pm, Sat. Sun. and holidays after 5 pm. A guided tour will cost 200 MDL per person on weekdays, and 300 MDL per person on weekends and holidays. Wine tastings start at 310 MDL per person and include a guided tour of the cellars.

Call  +373 22 382 333  to schedule a tour or tasting.

Milesti Mici Tours

• Bike Tour to Milestii Mici

• Milestii Mici Tour

• Price: $64.41
• Milestii Mici + Tiraspol

• Price: $236.18

Cobusca Nouă

Cobusca Nouă is a village just 35 km southeast of Chișinău known for its lavender crops that look like all those beautiful photos you see in France, just better because you'll likely have them to yourselves! If you're looking to stay close to the village you can stay in nearby  Anenii Noi .

Northern Moldova

If Moldova is rarely visited, then Northern Moldova is about as far off the beaten path as you can get in Europe. The lovely cities of Bălți and Soroca are two of the main draws to this region of Moldova. Of course, there are numerous wineries in the region as well.

Moldova's second-largest city after Chișinău, and nicknamed the 'Northern Capital'. Highlights in Bălți include St. Nicolas Church, Children's Park, Ştefan cel Mare Monument, and the Ethnographic Museum. A good option to sleep is at the  Elite Hotel .

The main attraction in Soroca is the Soroca Fortress built between the 14th and 16th centuries. Other attractions include the Candle of Gratitude and the Museum of Soroca History and Ethnography.

Another feature of the city that draws in tourists is Gypsy Hill. Roma people (an ethnic group often referred to as Gypsies) have built elaborate and colorful mansions along this hilltop with the influence of famous buildings like the Bolshoi Theatre and St. Peter's Basilica. Soroca sits perched on the banks of the Dniester River.

Try  Central Hotel  if you're planning to spend the night in Soroca.

Ungheni is known to be one of Moldova's most beautiful cities. Ungheni sits rights on the border with Romania, only separated from the Romanian city of Ungheni by the Prut River. Make sure to pay a visit to Frances Park and the numerous churches scattered about the city.

Gaugazia & Southern Moldova

Comrat/Komrat

The capital of Gagauzia. Highlights of Comrat include Lenin's Square, Cathedral of St. John Baptist, Gagauz History Museum, Gaugaz Cultural Museum, Gagauz Bazaar, Gaugazian Art Gallery, and the Gagauz National Theatre. Comrat will be the easiest place to be situated in order to explore the rest of Gagauzia.

For accommodation, check out  Caral .

The main attraction in Purcari is, of course, Chateau Purcari Winery. Boating, bicycling, fishing, and hiking are a few activities to do in the area aside from the winery. To arrange winery tours call  +373 60 121 221 .

If you'd like to spend the night at the winery set in the Southern Moldovan countryside near the Dniester River you can  book a stay here .

The far southwestern exclave of Gagauzia. Vulcanesti is rarely visited. Check out the House of Culture as well as several monuments, churches, and memorials scattered about the town.

Transnistria Tours

• Private Tour of Tiraspol from Chisinau

• Price: $217.23
• Cricova Winery and Tiraspol Tour

• Price: $247.54
• Day Trip to Transnistria from Odessa

• Price: $290.48

Moldova Travel Budget

Moldova is one of the cheapest destinations to visit in Europe, especially with the opening up of several hostels in the country in the last few years. If you're looking to keep costs low try staying in hostels, or even  Couchsurfing , eating at bazaars and local eateries, traveling by marshrutka, and trying to self-tour as much as possible.

$25/410 MDL per day

Staying in hostels or couchsurfing, dining at local eateries, traveling by marshrutka.

$50/825 MDL per day

Staying in midrange hotels, dining in midrange restaurants, taking a winery tour here and there.

$100/1655 MDL+ per day

Staying in comfortable hotels, taking tours, eating in finer restaurants.

What to pack

Traveling in Moldova won't require any special items. Summer can get stifling hot so I'd recommend a  lifestraw water bottle  to reduce your plastic waste.

For women, make sure and pack a scarf, because you will need to cover your hair when entering orthodox churches.

You can also pick up a copy of  Lonely Planet's Eastern Europe  if you're looking for a travel guide, but it is very, very limited. I'd recommend just purchasing the Moldova chapter in ebook form if you do want the guide unless you plan to travel more of Eastern Europe.

Have Any Questions About This Moldova Travel Guide?

Ask any of your Moldova travel-related questions in the comments section below.

More Posts from Moldova:

Transnistria Travel Guide

10 Reasons To Visit Moldova

How To Get To Orheiul Vechi, Moldova

6 thoughts on “the ultimate moldova travel guide”.

Thanks for this article. I am going to Moldova tomorrow for four days and this article helped me a lot. 🙂

Good to hear, I hope you enjoy Moldova!

what an excellent overview! thank you. i’m debating a visit in may or june and this has given me some nice insight.

Thanks, good to hear! I hope you enjoy if you make it to Moldova

Thank you for the post. The section of Chisinau was very intesting, i will visit it soon my self. The visa info was also handy.

I hope you enjoy Moldova, I always have a great time when I return

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THE ULTIMATE MOLDOVA TRAVEL GUIDE: Where to Go, What to See, and What to Know + 4 Day Moldova Itinerary

Salut dragii mei! (Hello, my dears!)

Before I traveled to Moldova this summer, I had no idea what was waiting for me. Ironically, I was born in a country that borders Moldova (Ukraine), but didn’t know anything about my southern neighbor! 

I had no idea that it was one of the best undiscovered wine destinations in Europe. It didn’t occur to me that it was full of green nature, beautiful landscapes, lavender fields, and waterfalls. And I definitely didn’t know that it was home to a “country within a country” — or rather, a country that doesn’t technically exist!   

Even though Moldova is the least-visited country in Europe, it won’t be for long — once you visit Moldova, you’ll want to tell everybody about it. ;)

Let’s check it out!  

🇲🇩 Moldova is perfect for … 🇲🇩

Budget travel – Soviet architecture – Wine tasting – Unique churches – A Hidden gem in Europe

WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE TRAVELING TO MOLDOVA

When to go to moldova.

The best time to visit Moldova is in the spring, especially during April or May. Temperatures are moderately warm, there are fewer tourists, and the countryside is full of green hills and color. 

Spring : Pleasant temperatures hovering around 15 to 18 C.  

Summer : Also a good time to visit, especially if you are planning to make your way to Odessa to enjoy the beaches. 

Fall : August to October – Starting to get chilly but still a nice time to visit, especially if you can come during the wine festival in November. 

Winter : November to mid-February. Temperatures fall – and so does snow. Many places in smaller towns are closed for the winter. 

HOW MUCH TO BUDGET FOR MOLDOVA

Moldova is a very budget-friendly country. In fact, it’s one of the cheapest countries in Europe!

I would recommend budgeting around $25 to $35 per day as a starting point, which includes accommodation, food, and entrance to tourist attractions. 

Here are the averages prices you can expect to pay for accommodations, food, and transportation in Moldova. 

Hostels: Less than $10/night for a bed in a dorm room Hotels : $30 to 35 per night

Food : about 120 MDL( $7 per lunch, including entree and drink) Coffee : around 20 MDL ($1.15 USD)

Bus from Chisinau to Old Orhei , about an hour drive: 26 MDL ($1.50 USD) Taxi in Chisinau : Around 40 MDL ($2.50 USD) for a taxi from the airport to the center Bus ticket in Chisinau : 2 MDL ($0.12 USD) 

Tourist attractions : Less than $5 per attraction – most tickets usually cost $1 or $2 USD

GETTING HERE // HOW TO GET TO MOLDOVA

The easiest way to get to Moldova is by taking a flight. There are dozens of airlines that fly directly to the capital airport, Chisinau (KIV), including budget airlines like WIZZ. The national airline, Air Moldova, flies from 30+ destinations in Europe.  

Compare prices and buy airline tickets to Moldova here 

You can easily get here by taking a bus to Chisinau from neighboring countries. 

I took the bus from Chernivtsi (Ukraine) to Chisinau and it took about 7 hours. There are busses to other major cities in Moldova, such as Balti, Tiraspol, and more. 

For people who want to explore and travel around Eastern Europe, there is a popular overnight train that goes from Kyiv to Chisinau. Other popular routes include Odessa – Tiraspol – Chisinau. 

HOTELS // WHERE TO STAY IN MOLDOVA

Hotels in Moldova can be hit or miss, so it’s really important to pay close attention before booking. Since tourism in Moldova isn’t as popular as in other countries (it’s one of Europe’s least visited countries!), you might encounter hotels that haven’t been updated since the USSR, staff that don’t speak English, or amenities that are common in typical hotels. However, don’t let this scare you! There are also plenty of hotels that are quickly being updated to accommodate tourists, which means that you can score an amazing hotel at a great price. 

One unique thing to do in Moldova is stay at a Pensiunea (sometimes called a Resedinta or a Pensiunea agroturistică ). This is a sort of agricultural-style guesthouse/bed and breakfast where everything is decorated in a traditional style, the food is made fresh every day from the nearby garden, and it feels like you’re staying at your Moldovian grandmother’s summerhouse. :) 

I had the chance to stay at one of these accommodations in Orhei and loved it – in fact, it was one of the highlights of my trip! If you’re interested in learning more, I’ve written about it below. 

TRANSPORTATION // HOW TO GET AROUND MOLDOVA

Since Moldova is a compact country, it’s easy to get around – both inside a city and between cities. 

BUSSES : There are plenty of busses that go between cities. This is your best option if you are planning to go beyond the capital – for example, if you’re planning to do a day trip from Chisinau or travel between different cities in Moldova. Busses are cheap, plenty, and you might have interesting company on the ride. ;) 

TRAINS : Trains in Moldova exist, but they’re very slow and infrequent. Your best bet is either taking an intercity bus or renting a car. 

TAXI : If you want to quickly get between Point A and Point B, taking a taxi is a great idea. I used a taxi in Chisinau since they were cheap and readily available – Yandex Taxi was the best, but iTaxi is great too if you like to have options. 

CAR RENTAL : I rented a car to get from Chisinau to Orhei and was extremely surprised at how well the whole experience turned out. The roads were in excellent condition, cities were clearly marked, and if you get hungry, you can pull over and buy a snack from the grandmas selling fruit on the side of the road. ;P 

WHAT TO PACK FOR MOLDOVA

Moldova is pretty standard when it comes to packing, since it has well-defined seasons and the clothing associated with it (dresses in the summer, jackets and jeans in the fall, etc.) 

However, there are a few special items that I recommend packing for your trip to Moldova:

✔ Pickpocket-proof Purse : Although Moldova is a safe country, it still has a problem that’s common in many places: pickpockets. I recommend a small purse, like this one , that is slash-resistant and has zippers.

✔ A Large Scarf : For ladies planning to visit any of the churches or monasteries in Moldova, don’t forget your scarf ! It’s a requirement to wrap a scarf around your head before entering a church. Some churches offer free scarves to tourists, but it’s a good idea to have one with you just in case there aren’t any available.

✔ “Nice” Clothing : If you’re planning to go on a winery tour (more on that later!), you’ll want to wear nice clothing to really stand out in photos. This means a cute dress for ladies and a nice shirt/slacks combo for gentlemen .

✔ A Warm Jacket : Speaking of wineries… If you’re planning on visiting an underground winery, I highly recommend taking a warm jacket or cardigan . The temperature down there is always a stable 50 F (10 C) and it can get pretty chilly! Throw over a warm cardigan and beat the cold. :)

✔ Wine Bottle Protector : Ok ok, last part about wineries, I promise! There’s probably a high chance you’ll want to buy a few bottles of wine after your wine tour – make sure they arrive in once piece by packing them in these useful pouches . 

✔ Comfortable Shoes : The terrain in Moldova can be hard on your shoes (and feet). Make sure you pack a comfortable pair of walking shoes, especially if you plan to visit Old Orhei or do some hiking. I wear these Adidas Superstar shoes and love them.

✔ Plug Adapter : Moldova has C and F outlets – Make sure your electronics can be charged by bringing these plug adapters along. I’ve been personally using this set for 4 years and highly recommend them!

Start Your Trip to Moldova in the Capital That’s Frozen in Time

Since most travelers usually start their trip to Moldova by taking an airplane or train into the country’s capital, Chisinau, this is where our itinerary will also start.

For first-time travelers, I recommend one to two days in Chisinau . If you’re in a rush, it’s compact enough to see in one day, but I recommend two to get a taste of authentic Moldova. 

There are plenty of tourist attractions in Chisinau that will fill up your day, including parks, museums, cafes, and more. Since it’s not a huge city like Paris or Moscow, you can really take your time and explore: grab a pastry from a bakery, sit in the Stefan Cel Mare park, and do some people watching. :) 

On another note, Chisinau is perfect for fans of Soviet architecture and history, especially since most of the city was rebuilt after being bombed in World War II. You can find classical Stalinist buildings almost anywhere you look, such as the Parliament, and other remnants of the Soviet Union at the Victory Memorial and the Eternal Flame. 

If you’re really interested in diving deep into the country’s history, I recommend going on a guided tour: most tours are budget-friendly, the tour guides speak excellent English, and you’ll finally know what the heck is going on in that huge mural near that one church. 

I recommend this Chisinau Walking City tour , which is a perfect introduction to Moldova and its capital.

If you want an in-depth look into Chisinau, I also recommend booking a specialized tour (Cold War, Jewish history, bike tour, etc) – in that case, I highly recommend Nicolai as a guide . :) 

WHAT TO DO IN CHISINAU

Start at the Triumphal Arch & Cathedral Park Arcul de Triumf & Parcul Catedralei 

Get to know Chisinau by starting your day at the Triumphal Arch , which is also coincidentally where locals meet each other — hey, it’s a convenient spot in the center and hard to miss! The Arch was built in 1840 to commemorate the overthrow of the Ottoman Turks by the Russian Empire in 1828 and remains a national symbol to this day. 

From here, you can also walk to Cathedral Park , which is behind the arch. It’s a lovely little square where you can sit and people watch (or wait for Google Maps to load so you can go to the next point 😉). 

Ștefan cel Mare Central Park

Located diagonally across Cathedral Park, Stefan cel Mare Park is the oldest park in Moldova and a nice spot to hang out. In the front of the park, you’ll see a large statue of Stephen the Great (Ștefan cel Mare as the locals call him), which is one of the most important figures in Moldova’s history.

Get to Know The Country at the National Museum of History of Moldova Muzeul Național de Istorie a Moldovei

The National Museum is, in my opinion, one of the best places in Chisinau and the perfect place to get acquainted with the history of Moldova. It has more than 250,000 exhibits detailing the history of the country, from ancient times to the royal family, to the USSR and finally to today. 

If you’re into architecture, you’ll love the gorgeous rooms and the ornate decorations. I think I spent a half hour just staring at the ceiling (in a good way!) and the beautiful details.

Budget 10 MDL ($1 USD) for a ticket and about 2 hours to walk through the entire museum. As a bonus, all of the signs are in English, and the employees also give you a little piece of paper with extra details when you walk into a room. 

National Museum of Ethnography and Natural History Muzeul Naţional de Etnografie şi Istorie Naturală

if not for the exhibits inside, go just to see the gorgeous building, which looks like it could have been transported from Morocco or Oman. There’s also a lovely garden.  

Admire the Architecture at St. Teodora de la Sihla Church Biserica Sfânta Teodora de la Sihla

Sure, Chisinau has plenty of interesting churches, but the St. Teodora de la Sihla Church is my favorite thanks to its gorgeous Byzantine architecture and blue roofs. 

Walk on the City’s Main Pedestrian Street, Yevgeniy Doga Street Strada Eugen Doga

Like any good Eastern European city, Chisinau has its own pedestrian street called Eugen Doga (named after a famous composer). Although it’s a fairly small street, there are plenty of cafes, restaurants, and breweries here. Don’t forget to take a photo of the “Sculpture of Lovers” statue.  

Central Market Piata Centrala

The central farmers market in Chisinau. It’s similar to what you would see in bazaars in other Eastern European countries and there are plenty of kiosks selling fresh fruit, vegetables, local types of cheese, and more. If you plan to visit this market, bring lei with you, since not many Moldovan grandmas accept credit cards here. ;) 

 Stroll along the Waterfront at Valea Morilor Park Lacul “Valea Morilor”

Just a little outside the center of Chisinau is the Valea Morilor Park. This huge complex is loved by locals and is an especially great place to visit during the summer, when the weather is nice and the activities are in full swing. Kids will love the theme park (Aventura Park). There’s also the gorgeous winding staircase, Scara Cascadelor, and the smallest monument in Moldova that features the Little Prince. 

FUN FACT: Moldavian archaeologists recently discovered the fragments of a mammoth skeleton at the bottom of the lake in Valea Morilor Park. 

Chisinau Railway Station Gara feroviară din Chișinău

Normally I don’t put stations on my itinerary, but how could you pass up this cheerful pink station? Just take a look at the Google photos – isn’t it so cute? 😊

If you’re planning to travel from Chisinau onward, there’s a high chance you’ll go through this station. It has daily and/or weekly departures from Chisinau to Bucharest, Kiev, Moscow, Minsk, Warsaw, Saint Petersburg, and Odessa. There are also many trains each week to neighboring Romania (Bucharest, Iasi, and so on), as well as daily service to Tiraspol. 

If you’re planning on visiting other countries after Moldova, I have a section on that as well – scroll to the very bottom or Ctrl + F “ Where Should I Travel After Moldova? ” to find it. :) 

WHERE TO EAT IN CHISINAU

As with most capital cities, there are so many places to eat in Chisinau no matter your budget, location, and taste. From hipster cafes to traditional Moldovan restaurants and everything in between, here are some of the places that I’ve personally eaten or have asked locals about. 

Propaganda Cafe – This is a can’t-miss in Chisinau! The cafe can be a little hard to find if you’re not familiar with the street, but once you’re inside, you’ll be glad you found it. The entire cafe is decorated like a Soviet house, complete with vintage Lenin posters and old USSR knickknacks. 

Besides being very aesthetic and fun to look at, the food here is phenomenal. I had the syrniki (cottage cheese pancakes), Napoleon cake, and a smoothie. The Napoleon was my favorite dish because it tasted exactly the way my grandma bakes it. Likewise, the service was friendly and helpful.  

La Placinte – La Placinte serves traditional Moldovan food, such as meat, dumplings, mamaliga, desserts, etc. in a cute ethno-style restaurant. There are half a dozen locations in Chisinau, all conveniently located near the center. 

Tucano Coffee – If you’ve been missing your daily dose of Starbucks, check out its Eastern European counterpart ;) This colorful and cheeky cafe chain can be found all around Chisinau with cute names like Brazil, Jamaica, and Costa Rica – a nod to coffee-producing countries where they source from.  

Creme de la Creme – If you’re walking along the pedestrian street (Strada Eugen Doga), you’ll come across this cute French-style cafe. There’s a nice selection of cakes and coffee, as well as outdoor seating.  

Gastrobar – Like the name says, this gastronomic-style restaurant has trendy dishes and a lovely atmosphere to boot. As a bonus, they’re open late. 

Zaxi – Upscale sushi and cocktail restaurant with stunning views from the terrace. 

Carpe Diem – All of the locals that I met recommended this as the palace to go for wine, and they’re right: Carpe Diem is a hybrid wine store and wine bar with excellent service. The employees there helped me pick out a wine and even gave a small degustation so I knew how it tasted before I bought it. If you don’t have time to go to a winery, definitely go here! 

WHERE TO STAY IN CHISINAU

MY TOP PICK

For my trip, I stayed at Wine Hotel, which, personally, I think is one of the best accommodations in Chisinau. Where else do you get one glass of wine for free per day? ;) 

The rooms are large and spacious with modern amenities, plus they have a lovely panoramic view of the city from the balcony. 

The hotel also has a wine bar / restaurant where breakfast (included in the rate) is served daily. This is perfect for traveling Moldova on a budget, since you get a delicious meal and won’t need to waste time finding a breakfast cafe. 

There are only a few rooms at Wine Hotel, so the service is personalized for each traveler. When I was checking out and going to Old Orhei, the manager even sent a security guard to load my luggage into the rental car. 

Finally, with a hotel being called Wine Hotel, they need to live up to their expectations, right? And they did exactly that: every day, guests can choose one of three different wines and receive a complimentary glass. The staff were also extremely knowledgeable and advised me which wines to buy when I went shopping for souvenirs. 

Reserve Wine Hotel on Booking.com

MID-RANGE HOTELS IN CHISINAU

Tulip Residence & Spa

This Thai-style hotel has charming decor, a delicious breakfast buffet, and clean rooms. As a bonus, there’s also a spa, massage, and hammam compex on-site. 

Reserve Tulip Residence on Booking.com

Hotel Chisinau

If you ever wondered how it felt like to be a tourist back in the USSR, here’s your chance. 

I stayed at the Hotel Chisinau on my way back from Old Orhei because I needed something budget-friendly and close-ish to the center. The rooms aren’t the most modern, but if you’re looking for the total Soviet experience, stay here. ;)

Reserve Hotel Chisinau on Booking.com

Casa Daca Boutique Hotel

A cute boutique hotel (there are only 18 rooms!) decorated in a minimalistic style with hints of traditional Moldovan elements. Centrally located and near plenty of museums, restaurants, and cafes.

Reserve Casa Daca Boutique Hotel on Booking.com

Zentrum Hotel

Centrally located, with friendly staff and spacious rooms. Zentrum was one of the most-liked hotels from the tourists that I talked to while I was in Chisinau.

Reserve Zentrum Hotel on Booking.com 

Mon Ami Villa

A sweet little hotel, Mon Ami is a perfect option because of two things: the cozily-decorated rooms, and the delicious and complimentary homemade breakfast (fresh fruit and crepes? Mmm).

Reserve Mon Ami Villa on Booking.com

LUXURY HOTELS IN CHISINAU

The Bristol Central Park Hotel

The creme de la creme of hotels in Chisinau, The Bristol is one of the best options in terms of luxury hotels. Each room has an enormous bed (seriously, take a look at the photos!) and a panoramic view of the city. Guests also loved the breakfast and the attentiveness of the staff members.

Reserve Bristol Central Park Hotel on Booking.com

Radisson Blu Leogrand Hotel

Chic, sophisticated, and modern, the Radisson Blu in Chisinau will make you feel like a jetsetter. Definitely don’t miss the rooftop restaurant (Zaxi) or the spa. 

Reserve Radisson Blu Leogrand on Booking.com

Nobil Luxury Boutique Hotel

Located in the center of Chisinau (it’s one block away from Cathedral Park), Nobil Hotel is a 5-star hotel and one of the premier luxury hotels in Chisinau. It’s decorated in old-school luxury and offers amenities such as 24/7 room service, a spa, and a gym. 

Reserve Nobil Luxury on Booking.com

Roxen Hotel&Spa

A simple, luxurious, and clean hotel with spacious rooms. As a bonus, Roxen guests get a discount at the restaurant next to the hotel.

Reserve Roxen Hotel & Spa on Booking.com

HOSTELS IN CHISINAU

Retro Moldova Hostel

If you want to go back to the USSR and do it in style, then book a room at Retro Moldova. This hostel is decorated with vintage Soviet posters as well as a cool mural. It’s fairly small (there’s room for only 12 people), but the atmosphere is friendly and the beds are comfortable. 

Reserve Retro Moldova Hostel on Booking.com

Amazing Ionika Hostel 

This *amazing* hostel (get it?) is consistently rated as one of the best hostels in Chisinau, and it shows. Although it’s not a party hostel, there’s still an upstairs area to hang out and get to know your hostelmates, as well as group tours to Transnistria and around the city. Plus, the decor is cute and homely! 

Reserve Amazing Ionika Hostel on Booking.com

Hostel City Center

Located right in the heart of the city, Hostel City Center is one of the most popular hostels in Chisinau. There are plenty of options for both male- and female-only rooms, as well as private rooms. There’s even an ATM and luggage storage. :) 

Reserve Hostel City Center on Booking.com

APARTMENTS IN CHISINAU

 Tree House

Located 5 miles from Chisinau, Tree House is an “eco resort” situated in the middle of a forest. The apartments here are gorgeously decorated with amazing views of the trees. Included on the property is an outdoor swimming pool, free private parking, a garden and even a private beach area. If you’re visiting Moldova in the summer and want to escape the busy city life, check out Tree House. 

Reserve Tree House on Booking.com

Great penthouse with a view  

Ever wanted to live the #baller life and stay in a penthouse? In Moldova, anything is possible. ;) This aptly-named apartment has a lovely view of the city skyline, as well as a sweeping terrace and two bedrooms. Likewise, it’s located close to the center but in a quiet area. 

Reserve this penthouse apartment on Booking.com

WHAT TO DO IN TRANSNISTRIA

Transnistria is made up of 10 cities and many little towns and villages, but we’ll be focusing on the big two today: Tiraspol and Bender (sometimes called Bendery). Tiraspol is the second largest city in Moldova and the capital of the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic, while Bendery is a city with important historical significance. 

No matter where you go in Transnistria, this country is like an open-air USSR museum. Statues of Lenin, socialist murals, and flags with the hammer and sickle will really make you feel like you hopped into a time machine went back to the USSR.

WHAT TO DO IN TIRASPOL

🔴 October 25th Street – Named after an important date in Soviet history (the day the October Revolution started), this street is also important, as its the main street that runs through Tiraspol. One thing that really surprised me was how wide this street is – even the pospekti in Minsk couldn’t compare to this street! 

🔴 House of Soviets – Near the beginning of the October 25th street is the House of the Soviets (photo above). This grand building was originally where important Soviet figures, such as deputies, met and discussed governmental things. Nowadays it’s home to the city hall. 

🔴 Suvorov Square – The grand park of Tiraspol, Suvorov Square is a huge plot of land with statues, benches, and mementos of Transnistria. In the summer, it turns into a colorful square from all of the blooming flowers. 

🔴   T-34 tank and Saint George Chapel – Just across Suvorov Square is another Soviet memento commemorating the USSR’s victory in World War II. A little further is St. George Chapel, which feature gold domes and Orthodox murals on the side. 

🔴 Presidential Palace – This unassuming brown and white building is where the President of Transnistria, as well as the parliament, meet to do very important things. There’s also a (you guessed it) Lenin statue. 

🔴 I Heart Tiraspol Sign – If you want to show your love for your new favorite city, there’s an “I Heart Tiraspol” sign in front of De Wollant Park.  

🔴 Hang out near the Dniester – Transnistria literally translates to “beyond the Dniester,” and a little piece of Tiraspol gives you the opportunity to see this magnificent river. Towards the end of De Wollant Park is a little bridge and some small kiosks selling ice cream and drinks in the summer. If you have some free time, grab a snack and watch the boats float by. 

🔴 Dom Knigi – If you’ve been wandering around Tiraspol looking for a souvenir shop, this is the best place. Half of the store sells books (that’s what the name translates to :)) and the other half has all sorts of Transnistria-related souvenirs like hats, pins, postcards, magnets, and more. 

🔴 City Library – One of my favorite places in Tiraspol. It might seem a little hipster, but I really liked the second floor, where you can find a colorful mural and a library that’s still in the 1970’s. The address is Strada Sverdlov 78.

WHAT TO DO IN BENDER

🔴 Bender Fortress – The most famous landmark in Bender, this fortress had humble beginnings as a wooden fort before being redeveloped into a strong fortification by a sultan during the Ottoman period. You can also go inside and walk around the area or go to the top for a nice view of the river. 

🔴 Noul Neamt Monastery – An all-male Moldovan Orthodox monastery located just outside of Bender and Tiraspol, this building was used asa hospital during the USSR before being restored into a church.

🔴 Bendery Bus Station – One of the most colorful bus stations that I saw in my life. The teal interior was so stylish that there was even a photoshoot going on when I walked by. If you’re hungry, check out the themed CCCP canteen on the second floor. 

🔴 Memorial Park in Bendery – A small square that contains interesting monuments and statues from the USSR. 

TRAVEL TIP : Psst, wanna play a game? Count how many Lenin statues you find in Transnistria and send me your final number on Instagram . ;)

WHERE TO EAT IN TRANSNISTRIA

  Kumanek – This was the Ukrainian restaurant where I ate during my little trip to Transnistria and one of the highlights of my time in Tiraspol. It has a large menu, delicious food, and outdoor seating with cute ethnic decor. 

7 Pyatnits Cafe (7 Fridays Cafe) – Nice cafe with both Western and local-style food, WiFi, and friendly workers. 

Love Cafe – A sweet cafe with decor that makes it look like it was taken from a street in Paris. There’s also an English menu. 

Kvint – Did you know Transnistria has its own distillery? Kvint produces more than 20 million bottles a year of its famous spirits and brandies. If you want to try a real taste of Tiraspol, there are daily tours at the Kvint factory. 

FUN FACT: A bottle of Kvint once made its way into space along with Yuri Gagarin. 

TRANSNISTRIA TOURS

If you prefer to have a set itinerary and a guide (or just don’t want to get lost in an unrecognized country, no big deal 😅), there are plenty of Transnistria tours. 

I recommend this Private Soviet Era History Tour of Transnistria from Chisinau , which picks you up from the capital, takes you around Transnistria, and brings you back to your hotel room.

WINE TASTING

Underground tunnels, 2 million bottles, and delicious wine… experience moldova’s top tourist attraction here.

France, Napa valley, Italy, Chile… These countries are all associated with delicious wine, but what if I told you there was another little-known region that will knock your socks off? And that you can visit it in Moldova? 

FUN FACT:  Did you know Moldova is the 11th largest wine-producing country in Europe and the 20th largest wine producing country in the world? 

Thanks to its fertile land and location, Moldova’s history of winemaking spans thousands of years. In fact, one of the chief exports of Moldova in medieval times was — you guessed it — wine! 

Moldova became the main supplier of wine to other countries in the Soviet Union in the 1940s (supplying nearly 70 percent of all wine!) all the way up until the mid-1980s, when the then-president Mikhail Gotbachev launched an anti-alcohol campaign. Thanks to these “dry laws,” more than 35% of vineyards across Moldova were shut down almost overnight and the economy suffered greatly. Some wineries were smart enough to hide their most important wines — some spanning back to 1901! — such as Milestii Mici. They constructed a huge wall on wheels that would roll to the side to reveal the hidden room full of rare and valuable wines.

After the fall of the Soviet Union, the vineyards in Moldova were back to making wine in full swing, but not for long. Two huge Russian embargoes on Moldovan wine in 2006 and 2013 (Russia didn’t take too kindly to Moldova wanting to join the EU)  forced winemakers to diversify. Nowadays, Moldovan wineries are perfecting their craft and targeting foodies from the European Union, Japan, and China. 

Will you be charmed by the delicious and fresh taste of Moldovan wine? There’s only one way to find out!

How to Choose a Moldovan Winery

If you want to go on a Moldova wine tour, there are a few things to consider: 

Do you want to go by yourself or with a tour? For the underground wineries, such as Milestii Mici and Cricova, you’ll need a car. You can either go with a tour company or hire a taxi in Chisinau to take you to the winery, since, obviously, the winery won’t let you wander the tunnels without supervision (unless you want to get lost – my driver regaled me with a lot of stories about lost tourists 😅). 

Do you want to visit one winery or multiple wineries in one day? If you have the whole day, I recommend going on a multi-winery tour to see the best of Moldovan wines. If you only have a few hours (for example, 3 or 4 hours), you can still fit in a wine tasting tour at one winery. 

What type of wine do you prefer? Although Moldova primarily makes white wine (70% of all production is white wine!), red and table wines are also popular and readily available at most wineries. If you’re like me and have no idea what you like, there are wine tasting tours in Moldova that give you 3 to 5 different wines to taste.  

TRAVEL TIP! If you’re planning to do a wine tour at one of the underground wineries, such as Milestii Mici or Cricova, it’s best to br ing a lightweight jacket or cardigan ( like this one ) . The temperature stays a constant 50 F (10 C) all year round, which means it can get pretty chilly! 

MILESTII MICI

I chose Mistii Mici (also known as Mileștii Mici) as the winery to go wine tasting on this trip for three main reasons: 1. It has the biggest wine collection in the world (!!) and is one of the most famous and well-known wineries in Moldova (the others being Cricova and MIMI) 2. It’s only a 20 minute drive (14 km) from Chisinau to Milestii Mici, making it perfect for a quick stop or a full day tour 3. The wine fountain — but more on that later ;) 

Milestii Mici winery. If you ask any Moldovan local what they think of Milestii Mici, they’ll probably reply that it’s one of the best wineries in Moldova. Spoiler alert: I asked my driver the same exact question, and got the same exact reply – as we were heading to Milestii Mici, no less. ;)

With more than 200 kilometers of underground tunnels and more than 2 million bottles of wine, Milestii Mici is home to the biggest wine collection in the world. 

Milestii Mici’s history began when an old limestone mine was “refurbished” in the late 1960s and turned into the state-owned winery that we know today. One of the unique things about Milestii are the two “wine fountains” near the entrance.  PSA – Unfortunately it’s not real wine that comes out of the fountain, but it makes for a cool photo nonetheless. :) 

FUN FACT: Celebrities such as Obama store their own wine at Milestii Mici – prices start at 500 Euro a year if you want to have your own storage “cellar”! 

I absolutely loved my tour at Milestii Mici and would highly recommend this winery as a starting point in your Moldovan wine tasting journey. 

The way it works is simple: you book a tour, the driver comes to your accommodation in Chisinau, and you make your way to the Milestii Mici winery. From there, you check in at the front desk and wait in line until it’s your turn to go underground (go check out the fountain while you wait!) You’ll have a few other cars in your “tour group” as you drive from point to point in the underground tunnels and stop to listen to the guide before moving on. At the end, depending on your tour package, you’ll be treated to a wine degustation and a delicious and authentic Moldovan lunch. Sounds great, right? 

P.S. – if you have the chance, definitely try the Mărgăritar wine. It instantly became my favorite wine, and *ahem* I might have bought 5 bottles to take home with me… 

BOOK A WINE TOUR TO MILESTII MICI HERE 

Cricova is the second largest wine cellar in Moldova, boasting over 120 kilometers of underground tunnels. It’s especially known for its sparkling wine, which can be found on the table of almost every Moldovan during New Years Eve festivities. 

FUN FACT:   In 1966, famous Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin visited Cricova for a wine tasting and emerged two days later (with some assistance). 

BOOK A WINE TOUR TO CRICOVA WINERY HERE 

CASTEL MIMI WINERY

Castel Mimi Winery is a gorgeous chateau that looks like it was transported directly from France. The only “wine castle” in Moldova, Mimi winery brands itself as a wine resort where guests can relax and enjoy wine. This sprawling complex includes a restaurant (The White Owl), an outdoor pool, a wine bar, and a hotel ( Seven Stone Chalets Hotel ).

FUN FACT: Founder Constantin Mimi supplied the Russian army with his wines during World War I. 

BOOK A WINE TOUR TO CASTEL MIMI HERE // BOOK A ROOM AT CASTEL MIMI BOUTIQUE HOTEL HERE  

CHATEAU VARTELY

Although Chateau Vartely is one of the youngest wineries on this list (It was founded in 2008!) it’s already well-known in Moldova for its premium wine. Located near Orheiul Vechi, Vartely is a bit further out but well worth it! 

You can even stay overnight and explore Old Orhei the following day — check out the section below for more information. 

BOOK A WINE TOUR TO CHATEAU VARTELY HERE // BOOK A ROOM AT CHATEAU VARTELY’S HOTEL HERE

Found in 1827, Pucari is the oldest winery in Moldova and remains relatively unchanged to this day. In fact, the underground cellars kept their cross-shaped tunnels, as a reminder of the time when the production of wine in the country was controlled by the church. 

If you have extra time and prefer to stop and savor everything the winery has to offer, Pucari recently launched a boutique hotel with ten rooms. There’s also a tennis court, two lakes, a restaurant and wine bar, and even a children’s playground.

BOOK A WINE TOUR TO PUCARI HERE // BOOK A ROOM AT PUCARI’S HOTEL HERE

Stunning green landscapes, cheerful Moldovan “bunicile”, and a monastery built into a cave

Old Orhei (known as Orheiul Vechi in Moldovan) is an area 35 miles (60 km) north of Chisinau that is comprised of three villages: Butuceni, Morovaia and Trebujeni. 

It is one of the most popular day trips from Chisinau and is famous for its rolling green hills, cozy bread and breakfasts (perfect for travelers looking to relax in nature!), and its most famous site: a monastery built into a cave. 

After it was added to UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites, Old Orhei came into prominence and is now one of the best places to visit in Moldova— and you’ll see why when you arrive! 

Take a small hike up to Orhei Vechi Monastery, taste homemade mamaliga at a bed and breakfast, revel in the beautiful nature, and enjoy this hidden gem of Moldova. 

The best part about traveling to Old Orhei is the flexibility: you can do a half-day tour from Chisinau (about 3 – 4 hours) or stay overnight to get a real feel of the Moldovan countryside. Besides the activities mentioned below, there isn’t much else to do – which is a plus if you’re interested in exploring nature and a minus if you’re into the bustle of city life. Hopefully that gives you a little insight so that you can pick the duration of your stay in Old Orhei. Let’s check it out. :) 

  How to Get to Old Orhei

You can get to Old Orhei via public transportation (a large van known as a marshrutka ) or via rental car (which is what I did). 

Marshrutka to Old Orhei 

You’ll want to go towards the back of Chisinau’s Piata Centrala (Central Plaza), where all of the busses and marshrutkas depart. There should be plenty of busses leaving daily – you’ll want to look for the one that has a sign with “Trebujeni” or “Butaceni” on it. Don’t worry, they’re close to each other, so it doesn’t really matter which one you take.

The ticket costs about 26 MDL (about $1.50 USD) and the journey takes about one hour. From Trebujeni it’s a 30 minute walk to the main sites, and from Butuceni it’s only about 15 minutes. Be sure to preload Google Maps beforehand because it can be a little confusing where to go— you’ll want to set “Orhei Vechi Monastery” as your destination, and you’ll know you’re close if you see the Orheiul Vechi Complex wooden sign at the entrance. 

To get back to Chisinau, you can just head back to where you were dropped off. Be sure to ask beforehand what time the marshrutka comes so that you can plan your day. 

Driving/Taxi to Old Orhei

For the trip from Chisinau to Old Orhei, I rented a car because it was convenient and I didn’t have to stick to the bus schedule. As a bonus, it’s easier to drive on the dirt roads over to your accommodation and to get between places (such as the monastery and a restaurant). 

The drive is about 55 km long and takes approximately 1 hour. The roads are really nice, but be sure to keep an eye on the speed limit so you won’t need to bribe the police. (*ahem* 😅)

What to Do in Old Orhei

Orhei Vechi Monastery

Orhei Vechi Monastery is the biggest tourist attraction in Old Orhei for two reasons. First of all, a monastery built into a cave?! How cool is that? And second of all, the (somewhat) hidden view from the back. But before we visit the monastery, let’s dive into a bit of history.

There’s a historical legend that said the leaders of the Golden Horde (a Tatar group that lived in the area) hid their gold and treasures in the walls of the cave’s rocks when they found out that their city was under attack. Is there still gold in the walls? Nobody knows — and I didn’t want to anger the monks and find out 😅 — so the legend is still out there. 

Besides gold, the monastery was also a popular place to hide Orthodox Christians during the USSR times, when religion was banned in the country. Even after the fall of the Soviet Union, the cave is still used today by Orthodox monks, who live and pray inside.  

The cave is a popular spot for tourists who visit it to see the colorful altar and icons inside. It is also one of the most important religious sites for Moldovan pilgrims who visit every year to pray. 

While I was there, the friendly monk mentioned that there is also a lovely view of the surrounding area. When you arrive, go straight ahead and there’s a small back “door” (AKA it’s really just a hole in the wall), and you’re there. 

You can also go into the little side room, which is where the monks used to sleep back in the day. Don’t worry, now they have much more comfortable rooms that are outside of the cave. :)

After the 1990s, the church services were moved to the new church nearby. It’s a short 5 minute walk between the two spots and the next thing on our list.

TRAVEL TIP! Since this is a religious site, please remember to wear conservative clothing. For men this includes a shirt and pants, and for women it should be a long dress and a scarf wrapped around the head. Although it’s not strictly enforced (i.e. there’s nobody at the entrance), also consider donating a few lei to help the monks with the upkeep. 

New Ascension Of St. Mary Orthodox Church

This is the church I was talking about :)

To the right of the cave monastery is the Orthodox church that was built in 1905. It’s a lovely compound that has a garden and a small church that you can go inside. On the side is a gift shop where you can buy small laminated icons, souvenirs, and other church-related things.  

The Stone Cross

The final part of the Orheiul Vechi Complex, this stone cross is a few steps away from the cave monastery. When I was exploring the area, there was a small queue to get a photo with this cross. After asking one of the men in line, I learned that if you put your hand over the flower on top, your wishes will come true. 

Visit the neighboring town of Orhei 

If you’ve finished visiting all of the tourist attractions in Old Orhei and have some spare time, you can also explore the nearby town with (almost) the same name. 

The drive from Old Orhei to Orhei is about 35 minutes and takes about 30 km. There you’ll find different stores, restaurants, parks, and more. There’s even an amusement park called Orheiland. :) 

A little further you can also find the Curchi Monastery , one of the most beautiful buildings in Moldova. If you want to learn more, I’ve written about it in-depth at the “Other Places to Visit in Moldova” section below. 

Where to Stay in Old Orhei

Since the town is small, there are only a few hotels in Old Orhei — but, like the old saying goes: quality over quantity! In fact, some of my favorite memories from Moldova were at the bed and breakfast that I stayed near Old Orhei. 

RESEDINTA ROTUNDU

Located in Butuceni, Resedinta Rotundu is one of the best accommodations near Old Orhei, and this was where I stayed overnight during my mini-trip here. 

One of the first things that jump out at you at Resedinta Rotundu is the cute, colorful, and kitschy decor, which makes it feel like a cheerful Moldovan grandma lives here. 

The second thing that jumps out is the extremely friendly staff. While waiting for the food, I went over to the garden out front and and talked with the two ladies. They were more than happy to give me a small tour of the fruits and veggies that they grow after I mentioned that my grandma also had a small garden. Later in the day, the credit card terminal wasn’t working and the older gentleman working as an electrician graciously gave me a lift to the nearby city of Orhei.

Speaking of the garden, I want to make a special note of the food here. I dined at Resedinta Rotundu twice, once for lunch and once for breakfast the day after. All of the dishes cooked at the restaurant are taken from the garden, eco-friendly, and fresh. The menu has a variety of options that include both Moldovan dishes and international ones. If you have time in the morning, definitely don’t skip breakfast: it’s absolutely amazing! The soft homemade bread, the chocolate-covered pancakes, the fresh-pressed juices, and the fluffy yogurt. If I could have one breakfast for the rest of my life, I would dine at Rotundu.

Finally, the rooms are large, comfortable, and have everything you need – in the traditional Moldovan decor, of course. ;) 

On a trip, it’s the little things that count — and my entire experience at Resedinta Rotundu made my trip to Moldova even better. 

Book Resedinta Rotundu on Booking.com 

Just a stone’s throw away in Trebujeni, Vila Roz is another picturesque pensiunea surrounded with hills and nature. The owner, Luba, is a native of the area and loves to delight her guests with traditional dishes at the on-site restaurant. 

The name, “rose villa” comes from both the cheerful rose-colored building as well as the lovely rose garden on the property. During the spring and summer seasons, don’t forget to smell the roses (literally) – they’re delicious! 

There are also complimentary bikes, hammocks, and an outdoor pool (!!) to make the most of your stay. 

Book Vila Roz on Booking.com

Where to Eat in Old Orhei

Again, since the town is small, there are a limited amount of options. 

If you’re only visiting Old Orhei on a day tour, I recommend buying some snacks in the city and bringing them with you (such as sandwiches, trail mix, bottled water, etc.)

If you’re staying overnight, most of the hotels and accommodations in Old Orhei will have at least one restaurant on-site, and many will even have breakfast included in the rate. 

For travelers who have a rental car, there are way more options in the nearby city of Orhei (the regular Orhei, not Old Orhei ;)). 

In case you’re limited to Orheiul Vechi, here are some restaurants in Old Orhei that you can try: 

Butuceni Restaurant: One of the best restaurants in Old Orhei, Butuceni is known for its delicious dumplings (seriously, try them) and traditional food. If you have time, definitely sign up for their cooking class – you won’t regret it!

Casa din Lunca Restaurant: A popular restaurant among locals that has a beautiful dining room and fresh food. 

Resedinta Rotundu: I’ve written above my stay above, but even if you’re not a guest, I recommend eating at Resedinta Rotundu. Everything is homegrown, organic, and yummy – especially the desserts. 

Epoca de Piatră/Pivnițele Brănești: Translated to “Stone Age,” this restaurant/brewery is built into a cave — you can’t miss it, as it has huge Hollywood-style letters announcing the entrance. The specialties here include delicious grilled meat and local craft beer. 

Old Orhei Tours

If you don’t have a rental car, prefer not to drive, and hate the thought of waiting for a bus in the hot sun, there are plenty of Old Orhei tours from Chisinau. The way it works is your driver will pick you up from your hotel in Chisinau, drive you to Old Orhei, and have your guide walk you through the main attractions before driving back to the capital. 

I recommend this Orhei Vechi Monastery Complex Tour from Chisinau , which includes a visit to all of the main sites in Old Orhei, the open-air museum, and even a traditional dinner. 

If you want to see all of the tours going to Old Orhei, you can check them out here . 

BACK TO CHISINAU

That’s it for our trip to Moldova! The final day is a “free day,” which means you can spend as much or as little time as you’d like in Chisinau. 

If you still have free time, feel free to check out some of the sites listed in “Other Places to Visit in Moldova” below. 

If you want to travel onward, I have also put together a small list of other places you can visit across the border — since Moldova is sandwiched between Romania and Ukraine, you’ll find plenty of options for those two countries. :) 

WHAT OTHER PLACES SHOULD I VISIT IN MOLDOVA?

Besides the top three places to visit — Chisinau, Transnistria, and Old Orhei — there are plenty of hidden gems in Moldova. Here are a few that were recommended to me by locals or that I’ve read about in guide books.

Soroca – Soroca is the “unofficial” Roma capital of Moldova due to the large population of Roma people living there. The biggest attraction in Soroca are the huge and over the top mansions – there’s even an area, Gypsy Hill, where you can see the best ones. Other attractions include Soroca Fortress and the Candle of Gratitude. 

Saharna Monastery – Located in a small village called (*drumroll*) Saharna, this monastery is surrounded by a lush forest and nature. After walking around the complex, visit the other main tourist attraction of Saharna: the 22 waterfalls that are sprinkled around the area! There’s also a full day tour that takes you around Saharna, Tipova, and the surrounding areas. BOOK YOUR TOUR TO SAHARNA HERE .

Codru Reserve – Codru is the oldest forest reserve in Moldova. Located about 50 km north of the capital, it makes for a perfect day trip from Chisinau.

Curchi Monastery (Manastirea Curchi) : The red and white colored monastery was built more than 250 years ago and has a history as colorful as its exterior: it started as a small wooden church, then rebuilt into the current style, bombed during the USSR, and then served as a psychiatric hospital until 2002. Finally, the government allocated money to restore the building to its former self, and now locals and tourists from around the world visit it. 

Cobusca Nouă – You don’t have to fly all the way to France to get those Instagram-worthy photos of yourself in a lavender field – just go to Moldova! Located in a small village, the best time to visit these fields are in June, when the lavender is in full bloom.  

Bălți – Often referred to as the “Northern Capital” of Moldova, Balti is the country’s second largest city. If you’re traveling for Chisinau to Chernivtsi, Ukraine, this is a good spot to stop and break up the long journey. Attractions include the large square and the Saint Constantine and Elena Cathedral. 

Gagauzia – Similar to Transnistria, Gagauzia is another autonomous region of Moldova. The population is more related to Turkish people than Moldovans (even the language!). It’s a 4 hour bus ride to Comrat, the capital city. 

WHERE SHOULD I TRAVEL AFTER M OLDOVA?

Moldova is neatly sandwiched between two countries, Ukraine and Romania, which makes it easy to choose your next destination. Here are a few options: 

Chernivtsi – One of the most beautiful cities in Ukraine (and my hometown *cough*), Chernivtsi is teeming with intricate architecture, beautiful pedestrian streets, and one of the most famous UNESCO sites in Ukraine: Chernivtsi National University! Chernivtsi is located near the border of both Romania and Moldova, and can be reached  via a 7-hour bus ride from Chisinau or a 3-hour bus ride from Balti.  

 READ MY CITY GUIDE TO CHERNIVTSI HERE!

Odessa – Odessa is the seaside resort of Ukraine featuring over 30 km of coastline and plenty of beaches. Although it might seem like Odessa is a summer destination, it’s actually perfect all year round! This city features friendly locals, elegant palaces, and the perfect place to take a stroll along the waterfront. It takes 4 hours by train from Chisinau to Odessa. As an option, you can also do Chisinau-Tiraspol-Odessa and have a stop in Transnistria on the way there. 

Iași – Iasi is the biggest city in eastern Romania and a lovely place to spend a day wandering around on your way to Cluj-Napoca or Brașov. Don’t miss the Palace of Culture or the park in front of it. It takes 3.5 hours by bus or 5 hours by train to get from Chisinau to Iasi. 

Bucharest – From one capital to another ;) There are so many things to do in Bucharest that I could write another blog post, but some of my favorite highlights were the National Theatre, Cărturești Carusel bookstore (seriously, this is the most beautiful bookstore I’ve seen in my life), and the dozens of parks scattered around the city.  The best option is to take a night train, which takes about 13 hours from Chisinau to Bucharest. Otherwise there are daily busses as well. 

That’s all for this travel guide to Moldova! I hope you enjoy reading it as much as I enjoyed traveling through this undiscovered but warm and friendly country.

Let me know what you think in the comments below: Have you been to Moldova? Do you want to go? And which of the places would you love to visit the most? 

I’m off to enjoy a glass of Milestii Mici wine — but before I go, I wanted to say… 

Mulțumesc frumos ca ați citit blogul meu și va doresc bun voiaj!

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12 thoughts on “ the ultimate moldova travel guide: where to go, what to see, and what to know + 4 day moldova itinerary ”.

Moldova looks like an interesting place to visit! And that food looks delicious!! I hope I will visit one day!

I was in Moldova last fall, it was a short weekend trip from Odessa! I took a train and I was so surprised that Moldova didn’t even put any entry or exit stamp. I had so much fun there as the wine was cheap, delicious and I’d met great people in the hostel I stayed it. Moldova is definitely really affordable quick destination! Thanks for the post :)

Nice to stroll with you. Great article. Keep the inspiration going!

What an excellent and thorough post! I didn’t know much about Moldova except they have excellent wine and the main reason I’ve wanted to visit. I almost did when I was in Romania but didn’t get the chance. I’ll save this post for all the wonderful things to do there when I do get the chance to go! 😁

Wow I had never really considered Moldova before but this blog makes me want to visit. So gorgeous.

I never would have thought of visiting Moldova, although I am aiming to travel more through some of the lesser visited European countries. Moldova looks delightful, you really made me want to go. It is cheap too which is perfect for budget travel. Also… wine hotel? Why doesn’t everywhere have one of those?!

Oh my goodness, who knew Moldova had so much to offer! And the prices were so reasonable! This is definitely going on our bucket list…we’re blown away by how beautiful it looks!

Hannah | https://getlost.blog/

So true! It’s such a colorful and budget-friendly destination :) I’m so happy it went on your bucket list!

Ahhhh Moldova looks so great!! I’ve wanted to go for so long, but I don’t really know a lot about it! This has shown me so much. And I really wanna go to Transnistria too!

Wow! Moldova looks beautiful! Love the National Museum photos. Sounds like a budget friendly place to visit too. So much to see there!

Hi there! We are planning for a week long trip to Moldova next month and came across your blog. I can’t tell you how excited we are now after going through your detailed writing! It was super helpful and we could literally feel your joy as you explored this beautiful little country! Thank you and keep up the good work! Safe travels! ❤️

Heya Bismi, Thank you so much for the kind words!! I really appreciate it and it bought such a big smile to my face :) I hope you have a fantastic time in Moldova, I’m sure you’ll love it! Feel free to reach out with any questions while you’re there (and don’t forget to try the plăcinte and mamaliga, yum 😋) Safe travels as well! 🌍

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Travel to Moldova – Tips + 12-day itinerary

By Joan Torres 3 Comments Last updated on April 5, 2024

Nestled between Ukraine and Romania, the former Soviet Republic of Moldova is one of the least visited countries in Europe, if not the least. 

The country, however, is worth the trip: tremendously exotic as per European standards and, after spending more than two weeks around the country, I have written this compelling travel guide containing everything you need to know travel in Moldova , including travel tips and a complete 12-day Moldova itinerary.

Going to neighboring Ukraine as well? Read: Ukraine travel guide

In this Moldova travel guide you will find:

Table of Contents

• Covid-19 Travel Restriction
• Travel insurance
• Best time to travel
• How to get in
• 10 Cultural facts
• Moldovan cuisine
• How to get around

Day 1, 2 – Chisinau

• Day 3 – Day trip to Curchi & Orhei
• Day 4 – Day trip to a winery

Day 5, 6 – Transnistria

Day 7, 8 – gagauzia, day 9, 10 – saharna.

• Day 11-12 – Soroca
• More information

eSIM for browsing, calling and planning your itinerary in Moldova

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😷 COVID-19 Travel restrictions for Moldova

You can enter Moldova with either a PCR or proof of vaccination.

Travel Insurance for Moldova with COVID-19 coverage

IATI Insurance  is one of the few providers that offers full Coronavirus coverage, not only when it comes to treatment, but also cancellations costs in case you tested positive before departure.

Remember that you should travel with insurance.

Readers of Against the Compass can get an exclusive 5% discount .

🇲🇩 Introduction: Why going on a trip to Moldova?

Moldova is a bit of a special destination. 

If you travel to Moldova with the objective of visiting UNESCO-listed Heritage sites, I am afraid you have come to the wrong place because there are none here.

Traveling in Moldova isn’t about checking out dreamy European architecture but the best things to do here range from hanging out in a ghost country named Transnistria to visiting other separatist regions like Gagauzia, loads of Soviet Heritage and basically, discovering the most traditional European country.

Honestly, this isn’t a destination for the average traveler but it is one of those places which will only satisfy those who travel with an open mind, willing to get immersed in the country’s history, both recent and past, as well as their political situation. 

This is the ultimate off the beaten track destination in Europe. 

For more inspiration, read all my unusual reasons to travel to Moldova

🪪 Visa for traveling to Moldova

Moldova is in Europe but, as you may know, it doesn’t belong to the EU, so different visa rules apply. 

However, up to 103 nationalities, including all high-GPD countries (see the full list here ) can get a free visa on arrival valid for 90 days within a 180-day period. 

If you are not from one of the lucky countries, you may be able to get an e-visa, and I suggest you visit the Moldovan MFA’s website .

🚑 Travel Insurance for Moldova

As always, don’t forget to travel to Moldova with proper travel insurance, and I recommend you to get IATI Insurance for the following reasons:

• All types of plans: from families to backpackers and senior citizens
• Covers both short-term trips and 1-year long trips.
• Covers wide range of COVID-19 related stuff.
• Readers of this blog can get a 5% exclusive discount

📚 Best books for traveling in Moldova

Romania – moldova travel guide by lonely planet.

It is a bit outdated, from 2007 but, unfortunately, it is the only complete travel guide to Moldova.

Eastern Europe travel guide by Lonely Planet (2019)

Otherwise, if you are traveling all around the region, you could also get the generic Eastern Europe guide, which includes one chapter about tourism in Moldova.

⛅ Best time to travel to Moldova

Best season for backpacking in moldova:.

Mid-September to mid-October. Why? It is harvest season, and wine is one of the main reasons to come to Moldova. You are likely to see how they produce wine, plus the Moldovan wine festival takes in the first week of October.

Winter (from November till February)

Sure, you can visit then but it will be freaking cold with not much going on.

Spring (March to June)

I think spring would be the second-best time to come, as the weather will be pleasant and landscapes will be covered by blankets of flowers. When I visited in September, everything was pretty brown and dry.

Summer (July and August)

High season and hot but I believe it would also be a good time to come. More travelers to hang out with.

Read my travel guide to Kiev

🛫 How to get to Moldova

There are different ways to get to Moldova:

How to travel to Moldova by plane

Chisinau International Airport has a good range of flights connecting with different European cities like Warsaw, Munich, Kyiv and especially Bucharest. I always search for flights on Skyscanner . but you can also check Moldavia Air ‘s website.

How to travel to Moldova by land border

Moldova shares a border and endless entry points with both Ukraine and Romania:

• Ukraine: If coming by land, most people will go from Odessa to Chisinau, either by train or bus, the train being the faster option. You can book your tickets on the official Ukrainian Railway website but remember to type Kishineu , the correct Russian transliteration. However, if you check out the map you will see that there are endless entry points to choose from and I suggest you pick the one closest to your location and destination. For example, after my trip to Moldova, my plan was to head to the Ukrainian Carpathians, so I took a marshrutka from Soroca to a northern city named Briceni, from where you can get a direct bus to the Ukrainian city of Chernivtsi. That border crossing is also very convenient for those wanting to go to Lviv. Read my Ukraine travel guide .
• Romania: Again, many entry points to choose from but most travelers will just take the overnight train from Bucharest to Chisinau. Travel Tramp has written about it in this post .

Remember to get travel insurance for Moldova I strongly recommend IATI Insurance as it has COVID-19 coverage + 5% discount Get exclusive 5% discount if purchasing via this link

🕌 10 Facts about Moldova, Moldovans, and Moldovan culture

1 – The Republic of Moldova is a former Soviet country – It joined the USSR in 1940 and declared its independence in 1991.

2 – Before, it used to be part of Romania – Well, their history is, of course, more complicated than that but, before joining the USSR, present Moldova was a region named Bessarabia, which belonged to Romania but was ceded to the Soviets as a consequence of the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact  in 1940.

3 – Therefore, Moldova is a real Romanian/Soviet blend – Moldovans are culturally Romanian but, since the Soviets ruled here for more than 50 years, Russian culture is strongly present in all aspects of life, from their cuisine to the architecture and even their national psyche. 

4 – Romanian is the official language – Moldovan is basically Romanian, which is a Romanic language from the same family as Catalan, Spanish, Italian, French and Portuguese. However, most Moldovans also speak fluent Russian, including the young generation, unlike happens in Georgia .

The educated young generation in Chisinau can speak English apart from that, communicating with the locals other than in Russian can be a struggle. 

5 – It has 2 separatist regions – On the one hand, you have Transnistria, a breakaway territory inhabited by Russians that declared their independence from Moldova in 1992. Basically, it is a country not recognized by the UN. For more information, read my Transnistria travel guide .

Moreover, you also find a region named Gagauzia, mostly inhabited by Gagauz people, a Turkic ethnic group that converted to Christianity. Gagauzia also declared independence from Moldova but, for different reasons it just became an autonomous region. For more information, read the relevant section of this guide.

6 – Around 94% of Moldovans are Orthodox Christians – And between the Russian Orthodox Church and the Romanian Orthodox Church, there is a big dispute over which is the national church of the country. 

7 – Their national animal is the aurochs – Which is an extinct species of cattle and the symbol that appears in their flag. 

8 – It is a wine country – From epic wine cellars to endless wine bars, wine is an essential part of Moldova’s culture and one of the main reasons to travel to Moldova . In the rural part of the country, everybody has a vineyard in their garden and produces home-made wine from its grapes; and you will be likely to taste it if staying in a local guest house.

9 – It is the poorest country in Europe – According to the World Bank , the GDP per capita of Moldova in 2018 was only 3,189.4USD. To give you an idea, Romania’s was 12,301USD and Spain 30,523USD. 

10 – Corruption and bribes are a problem – Moldova is one of the most corrupt countries in Europe and you will notice it as you soon as you step in the country, as the custom’s walls are filled with anti-bribery warnings. 

🍲 Moldovan food: what is it like

Moldovan cuisine is hearty and, whereas most national dishes are essentially Romanian with a local twist, Russian flavors and their dill-based dishes are highly present in all restaurant menus. 

In fact, the cheapest places to eat will always be in those self-service Soviet canteens which you can find all over the former Republic, and which all serve the same food, from Kazakhstan to Belarus .

Filled pastries, a large variety of soups and heavy meat-based dishes often served with polenta, which is like corn couscous, is what Moldovan cuisine is mostly about, but they also have plenty of vegetarian appetizers. 

Must-try dishes during your trip in Moldova:

• Placinte – This is the most traditional and common snack in Moldova, typically found in all bakeries but some restaurants also serve it for lunch. It is a pastry usually filled with cheese and available in many different shapes and sizes.
• Zeama – Traditional chicken soup normally eaten for lunch.
• Limba Soacrei – Translating to m other-in-law’s tongue , these are eggplants stuffed with walnut paste, similar to the ones you find in Georgia . Funnily enough, both countries claim their recipe is the original one.
• Sarmale – The classic vine or cabbage leaves stuffed with rice and meat which you can find in a big bunch of neighboring countries.
• Mamaliga – Perhaps, the most traditional dish in the country, mamaliga is corn porridge, usually served with pork, cheese and sour cream on the side.
• Coltunasi – Classic dumplings which you can find in all Eastern European countries, with different names, shapes and sometimes filling. In Moldova, they are usually filled with bryndza (cheese) but the most unique ones I found were filled with sour cherry, typically eaten for dessert.

💰 Money in Moldova

In Moldova, they use the Moldovan Leu (MDL) and, approximately, 1€ = 20MDL .

Note: In the breakaway territory of Transnistria, they use a different currency. For more information, read all my practical tips to visit Transnistria

Paying by card and ATMs – ATMs are plentiful all over the country and most shops will accept credit cards, including in smaller towns. However, do have some cash with you when you get out of Chisinau, as not all places will accept credit cards.

Exchanging money – Like in all non-euro countries in Europe, finding offices where you can exchange money is always easy, especially in Chisinau.

How much does it cost to travel in Moldova?

Whereas it is not nearly as cheap as Asian countries, Moldova is still a budget country as per European standards. These are the prices of the most typical things:

• Budget Hostel: 100-150MDL (6-8€)
• Double room in a budget hotel: 400-500MDL (20-25€)
• Double room in a mid-range hotel: From 600-800MDL (30-40€)
• Local meal: 40-60MDL (2-3€)
• A 3-course meal in a mid-range restaurant: 100-200MDL (5-10€)
• A glass of local wine: 20-30MDL (1-1.50€)
• A glass of wine in a fancy place: 60-80MDL (3-4€) 
• Marshrutka from Chisinau to Tiraspol: 37MDL (around 2€)
• Marshrutka from Chisinau to Orhei: 20MDL (1€)
• Short taxi rides in Chisinau: 40-50MDL (2-2.50€)

🛺 How to get around Moldova

If you are backpacking in Moldova, the easiest way to travel around the country is by marshrutka , as distances aren’t particularly long and you just have so many options all day long.

Train – There is a train line in Moldova but it is not that convenient unless you are traveling to places outside of Moldova like Odessa or Bucharest.

In Chisinau – You can get in a trolley bus for as cheap as 2MDL (10 cents of €) and, by taxi, I recommend you download Yandex, which is like the Russian Uber.

Hitchhiking – Very easy, as this a common practice among locals but, usually, the driver will expect a fee, which tends to be not higher than the price of a local marshrutka ride to the same destination.

📍 12-day Moldova Itinerary or how to spend 10 days traveling in Moldova

Most travelers will just spend a few days in the country, mostly sticking to Chisinau and Transnistria.

However, with all the photos from this Moldova itinerary, here’s hoping to convince you to spend longer.

Moldova Itinerary Map – Things to do in Moldova

Unfortunately, Chisinau is often perceived as the ugliest capital in Europe, competing closely with Pristina, the capital of Kosovo. 

The capital is gray, mostly composed of Soviet buildings and overall, there isn’t much to do besides checking out some concrete and some not very exciting museums. 

Although I fully agree that Chisinau isn’t the place to visit mind-blowing architectural buildings, plus I am not the most museum-friendly person, Chisinau has some pretty cool Communist Heritage to check out, it is a great base to do some excellent day trips and there are plenty of wine bars where to have some good fun.

Best things to do in Chisinau

Triumphal Arch & Cathedral Park – The main landmark in the city is a not very triumphant Arc de Triumph. I am just kidding, but most triumphal arches across the globe tend to be massive, but not this one. Anyways, Chisinau’s Triumphal Arch was built to commemorate Russia’s victory against the Ottomans at the beginning of the 19th century.

Lenin & Karl Marx statues – Except in Belarus , where the Old Fellah can be seen all over the country, today, Lenin statues are getting harder to see but, in Chisinau, just across Valea Morilot Park, you can find one along a Karl Marx bust.

Read: Weird things to do in Belarus

Chisinau Circus – I have seen many Soviet Circuses around the former Soviet Republics but the one in Chisinau is particularly amazing. Today, the circus remains closed and, unfortunately, by the time I was there, there was no way to get in, but some people did, and here you can some pictures from the inside .

Central Market – A traditional Eastern European market filled with very friendly Moldovans, especially the ladies from the indoor dairy section. 

Saint Theodor Church – There quite a few churches to visit in the city but for me, this one was the most beautiful. 

If you are interested, in this post you can more things to do in Chisinau, including all museums, parks and other landmarks.

Where to stay in Chisinau

Backpacker hostel – Amazing Lonika Hostel – Probably, the best hostel in town. Amazing stuff, location, and a pretty cozy place. The best option for backpackers.

Guest House – Home Sweet Home – A pretty cool guest house with very comfortable rooms and an epic breakfast.

Apartment – Sweethome Deluxe – A 1-bedroom apartment with a panoramic view of the city center that can accommodate up to 4 people.

Day 3 – Day trip from Chisinau: Curchi & Orhei Vechi

On your 3rd day, you may wanna check some important Christian sides: Curchi and Orhei Vechi.

They aren’t in the same place though, so if you are traveling by public transportation and want to visit both in one day, you should wake up early.

Curchi monastery

Curchi is a small rural village home to a monastery named Curchi which, in my opinion, was the most beautiful I visited when I traveled in Moldova.

The monastery was founded in the 18th century but then it was used as a psychiatric hospital during the last three decades of the USSR.

They re-opened it in 2005 and, since then, it’s been under ongoing renovation. 

How to get to Curchi – First, you need to take a marshrutka to Orhei town, located 50km north of Chisinau. They depart from the Central Bus Station and cost a bit more than 20MDL. The intersection to Curchi is just 5 or 6km before Orhei and I recommend you get off there and hitchhike the remaining 10km to Curchi. Alternatively, there are also marshrutkas running between Orhei and Curchi but they don’t leave that often.

BONUS! Visit Tabara village – If you have some time to spare, there is a village 8km west of Curchi named Tabara. I personally walked all the way there and, on the way, I passed through a few very traditional villages which were pretty interesting to see. Once you reach Tabara, there is no need to go back because if you continue walking over the hills, you get to a road that leads directly to Chisinau, and where you can hitch a ride.

Orhei Vechi

Orhei Vechi, meaning Old Orhei , is one of the top attractions in Moldova, an archeological and ecclesiastical complex containing 2,000-year old ruins, a cave monastery, a modern monastery and quite a few archaeological sites scattered all over the place.

The views you get from the hill are pretty awesome and, if you come in spring or summer, the fields will be covered by fully grown sunflowers and many different colors. 

Visiting the complex is free and it takes around 2 hours to visit the main sites.

How to get to Orhei Vechi from Curchi – If you are following my Moldova itinerary, you will go from Curchi and, for that, you have two options. The easiest way would be taking a marshrutka to Orhei and, from Orhei, take a second marshrutka to Butuceni, the village where Orhei Vechi is. This option seems convenient but these are small villages and buses don’t run that often. Your second option should be more fun and that is by hitchhiking.

How to get to Orhei Vechi from Chisinau – If you want to get there from Chisinau, you have two different options. If you are lucky, you may find direct marshrutkas to Butuceni, but you only get a few per day. Otherwise, take the one to Orhei and get off at the intersection towards Orhei Vechi, around 10km before. At the intersection, walk for a few hundred meters until you find the bus stop to Butuceni.

Day 4 – Day trip from Chisinau: Visit a winery (I personally went to Asconi winery)

All right. 

If you travel to Moldova, it means that you are probably looking forward to some wine tasting, am I right?

Moldova is filled with loads of wineries, from all sizes.

Cricova, Purcari, and Milestii Mici are the biggest, most famous and visited by tourists, especially the last one as, apparently, it holds the largest cellar in the world, composed of 200km of underground tunnels. 

However, I didn’t go to any of those. I didn’t because I know what visiting this kind of winery is like. They are monster corporations that produce wine on a giant scale and all they offer is an overpriced wine tasting tour and a visit to their most industrial facilities. 

Side note – Visiting the biggest and famous wineries isn’t the way to experience the wine culture in Moldova, but you need to go to the rural areas and see how they produce it in the traditional way (if you come in harvest season). Alternatively, you can stay in a local guesthouse, where you are likely to be offered homemade wine.

Instead, we decided to go to a middle-sized one: Asconi winery .

By the way, this article contains a list of lesser-known wineries in Moldova .

We went there because it has an amazing outdoor restaurant packed with local people, serving traditional homemade food. Dishes were inexpensive, so was the wine, and we made our own wine tasting. It was an excellent half-day trip from Chisinau. 

We also did the tour but, as we expected, it was rather disappointing – they all are – and we would have preferred to just go to the restaurant. 

How to get to Asconi Winery – From Central Bus Station in Chisinau, you need to get a marshrutka to a village named Puhoi and get off a couple of kilometers before. It is a 30km journey.

Milestii Mici and Cricova can be easily visited on a day trip from Chisinau. Purcari, on the other hand, is quite far from Chisinau but if you have your own car, it is doable in a day.

Welcome to the largest Soviet open-air museum, the Soviet theme park of Transnistria. 

Like I said before, Transnistria is an unrecognized country within Moldova and, for many, the highlight of traveling to Moldova. 

Actually, in my opinion, if you only have 2 or 3 days to travel in Moldova, Transnistria should be your top priority.

I will not talk a lot about it because I already wrote a full travel guide but, long story short, Transnistria is mostly inhabited by pro-Russian people who didn’t want to belong to pro-Romanian Moldova, so they self-declared their independence shortly after the fall of the USSR. 

Today, Transnistria can easily be visited on a day trip from Chisinau, but I recommend you stay over for one night at least, as there are plenty of exciting things to see. 

Best things to do in Transnistria

• Tiraspol – The capital and where you find the Soviet theme park.
• Bender – Home to a fortress and a large Communist Heritage.
• Sucleia – A village where you find an epic monastery inhabited by Transnistrian monks.

Transnistria requires a separate visa, has its own borders, currency and many peculiarities. My guide to visiting Transnistria contains everything you need to know about it.

How to get to Transnistria (Tiraspol)

Easy. Marshrutkas to Tiraspol leave continuously from the Central Bus Station and one ticket costs 37MDL. It is a 2-hour journey.

Where to stay in Transnistria

Best Backpacker Hostel –  Like Home Hostel  – The best backpacker hostel in town is run by a lovely local family, has a garden, a good location and vibes. 

Best Budget Hotel –  Elektromash Hotel  –  Good quality budget rooms in a hotel which also has a kitchen.

Best mid-range hotel –   Hotel Russia  – If you want a more comfortable stay, this hotel is the best value-for-money mid-range option in town.

For more information, read my Transnistria Travel Guide

Have you ever heard of Abkhazia? Abkhazia is another unrecognized country located in today’s Georgia. Check out my travel guide .

After our 3-day visit to Transnistria , we decided to head to Gagauzia to get to know the famous Gagauz people everybody was talking about. 

Gagauzia is an autonomous region within Moldova which also attempted to become independent in 1991 but then, when Moldova started to pay more attention to their rights as a minority, they agreed that Gagauzia would become an autonomous region within Moldova.

Still, visiting Gagauzia really feels like a different place than Moldova.

First of all, the Gagauz are ethnically Turkic people who converted to Christianity.

They speak Gagauz, a Turkic language particularly close to Turkish, but they are also pro-Russian – they actually had a referendum in 1991 to decide whether to remain part of the USSR or not, and the YES won – and use the Cyrillic alphabet.

I am not sure which language prevails, Russian or Gagauz, but what I know for sure is that many Gagauz don’t speak Romanian.

Actually, whereas most Moldovans are easily granted Romanian passports, Gagauz people aren’t and, funnily enough, they do get Bulgarian passports because, according to a Gagauz I met, their culture is particularly close to Bulgarian. 

Therefore, Gagauz people are a pro-Russian Turkic group who converted to Christianity and are culturally Bulgarian. It’s pretty fucked up but Europe is fucking awesome.

If you are traveling in Moldova, it is definitely an interesting spot but something you need to know is that there isn’t much to do here other than learning about the Gagauz people, so I think this is a place to be visited only by the most intrepid and curious travelers or those who are heading or coming from Romania, as Gagauzia is on the way.

Meeting English-speaking locals can also prove challenging, and we barely did, but we were very lucky that, in a village named Besalma, I met a local lady who spoke impeccable English and invited us to her house and gave us some good insights about the region over a cup of coffee and some pastries. 

This is an excellent photo essay from The Guardian about the region.

Things to do in Gagauzia

Gagauzia is a big region. I spent 2 days there and visited the following places:

Komrat – The capital of Gagauzia, and a very Soviet town, you will see. Again, there isn’t much to do here other than visiting the town’s church and to check out the Soviet stuff, especially the  kvass tank stalls.

Chirsova – Chirsova is a town where you find a small winery whose main facilities are inside a very old-fashioned Soviet building. You can visit it in the morning but, if not, you can go to the winery’s shop where you are likely to see some locals drinking local draft wine. In the shop, they sell the whole range of Chirsova wines. We bought the best and most expensive they produce, a Merlot Reserve from 2010 and only cost 30MDL, around 1.50€. All right, it wasn’t a very good wine but seriously, for 1.50€ a bottle, I have never tasted anything better. By the way, because some people get confused, this is Chirsova, not the famous Crisova winery .

Besalma – 20km south of Komrat, you find a lovely rural village home to a wood-made windmill, a real icon of Gagauzia. The windmill however, is in a pretty bad shape and, apparently, it is been like this for years. In Besalma, you can also visit the National Gagauz history and ethnographic Museum .

Where to stay in Gagauzia

Astoria Hotel – There aren’t many options in Komrat, and we stayed here because it was the cheapest but if you are only 1 person, it isn’t that cheap.

How to get to Gagauzia

We went to Komrat from Tiraspol, which was a long and tiring 4-hour journey but you can easily go from Chisinau South Bus Station. 

In Saharna, you find a pretty colorful monastery which also turns out to be the top pilgrimage place in the country.

Any Moldova travel guide out there will always tell you that the monastery is the ultimate and only reason to visit Saharna but during our visit, we discovered that there was an even better reason.

Meeting Liuba. 

The fact is that, when we were traveling in Moldova, we wanted to spend some time in an authentic rural village.

While doing some research, we discovered that, in an off the beaten track village named Saharna, besides the monastery, there was a brand-new homestay with no reviews and not very nice photos but still, we decided to give it a try.

The homestay, however, wasn’t really in Saharna but in Saharna Nova, a very rural village, 5km beyond and, upon our arrival, there was a woman waiting outside who greeted us with: Buenas tardes!

It turned out that the host, Liuba, was an old woman who had lived for more than 10 years in my hometown area, in several places around Girona province (Spain), including Selva de Mar, Platja d’Aro and Girona city.

She could speak impeccable Spanish, understood Catalan and knew everything about my hometown and culture.

Being able to have some real conversations with someone from that area was very rewarding but also, Liuba was a kind-hearted woman who made our stay very enjoyable, fed us with delicious home-made food and, since we visited her during harvest season, she even took us to her neighbor’s to see how they collect grapes and produce wine.

The monastery was great to see but seriously, the main highlight of this area is hanging out at Liuba’s house and enjoying real rural Moldova.

I dare say that this was our best Moldova traveling experience.

How to stay in Liuba’s place

Liuba’s guest house is called Casuta de Linga and you can book it through this link .  

How to get to Saharna & Saharna Nova

From the Northern Bus Station in Chisinau, you need to take a marshrutka to Rezina and, from there, a second marshrutka to Saharna, which leaves you next to the monastery. Saharna Nova is around 5km after that and your best bet would be hitchhiking. 

Day 11, 12 – Soroca

Soroca was our last stop in Moldova before traveling to the Ukrainian Carpathians. 

There are two reasons to stop in Soroca when you travel in Moldova: one is to check out their Medieval fortress from the 15th century and the other is to get to know one of the largest communities of Romani people, more commonly known as gypsies.

Soroca is, in fact, a gypsy city, and a peculiar one, because here you find the Gypsy Hill, which is an upper neighborhood full of extravagant and ostentatious mansions, composed of glittering columns and shinning roofs, built with the purpose of showing their success after years of discrimination. 

We didn’t spend much time in Soroca, so we just walked around the neighborhood for a while but this is an excellent write-up of a traveling family who met the Gypsy King of Soroca . Yes, he exists.

Things to do in Soroca

Soroca Castle – Located at the shores of the Dniester river, this Medieval castle is the best in the country. 

Gypsy Hill – Explained before, and it is a short walk up from the city center.

Dniester river – The city is located at the shores of the Dniester river, the other side being Ukraine. Near the castle, there is a very rudimentary ferry that can take you to the other side. Since most nationalities have visa-free for both countries, you could just cross and spend a couple of hours in Ukraine , even though I am not sure if there is anything to do in the border village.

Where to stay in Soroca

Villa de Nord – One of the very few options and the cheapest in town probably. The owner, however, was a pretty nice lady who spoke very good Italian.

How to get to Soroca

If you are coming from Chisinau, there are loads of buses leaving from the North Bus Station. 

If you are following my Moldova itinerary, so you are going there from Saharna, you will first need to go back to Rezina and then take the marshrutka towards Balti, but you need to get off at the intersection before Floresti (say you are going there). At the intersection, just wait for the marshrutka that goes to Soroca.

Conclusion of travel in Moldova

When I told travelers I met on the road that I was planning to spend two weeks traveling in Moldova, most of them didn’t understand why one would spend so much time in a country where there isn’t much to do.

Well, as you could see in this 12-day Moldova itinerary, the country’s main attractions are slightly different from what a normal holiday would be but, once again, if you travel with an open mind, I am pretty sure you won’t get bored at all. 

❗ More information for backpacking in Moldova

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All guides and articles for traveling in Moldova destination

• Transnistria Travel Guide
• Unusual Reasons to Visit Moldova

Travel guides to former Soviet countries

• Georgia Travel Guide
• Ukraine Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Tajikistan
• Belarus Travel Guide
• Azerbaijan Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Kyrgyzstan
• Uzbekistan Travel Guide
• Kazakhstan Travel Guide

Wow ! These guides are really super?. Thank you so much

Came across this blog as i was researching more about Moldova and how i can make my itinerary. Am planning to make a lifetime trip to Moldova.

HOW CAN YOU HELP ME IN GETTING MY THE ITINERARY. IF YOU DONT MIND SHARE THESE ONE AS I SEE ITS WELL DETAILED AND INFORMATIVE. NEED A DOWNLOADABLE DOCUMENT TO ASSIST IN MY EVISA PROCESSING TOO.

Hi, there’s a detailed itinerary on this very same post: https://againstthecompass.com/en/travel-moldova-itinerary/#9

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• 3 Other destinations
• 4.1 Climate
• 4.2 Terrain
• 4.3 History
• 4.4 Culture
• 4.6 Visitor information
• 5.1 Entry requirements
• 5.2 By plane
• 5.3 By train
• 5.6 By boat
• 6 Get around
• 8.1 Museums
• 8.3 Monasteries
• 10.2 Shopping
• 10.3 Tipping
• 16 Stay safe
• 17 Stay healthy
• 18.2 Sensitive issues

Moldova is a small country nestled between Romania and Ukraine . It's one of the least visited countries on the planet, which is why tourists are likely to attract attention from the locals. Moldova is known for its traditional culture and large production of wine. Agricultural land takes up 75% of Moldova's national territory.

Regions [ edit ]

Cities [ edit ]

• 47.022778 28.835278 1 Chișinău — the capital is a nice city to go and visit for some days, and to walk around in
• 47.761667 27.928889 2 Bălţi — the second largest city, features a pedestrian zone around the central square and a historic city centre
• 48.155833 28.2975 3 Soroca — known as the "Romani (Gypsy) capital of Moldova", also boasts the Soroca fort built by Stephen the Great in 1499
• 47.204167 27.795833 4 Ungheni — a border town to Romania with a bridge over the Prut river designed by architect Gustave Eiffel
• 46.300278 28.657222 5 Comrat — the capital of the teritory of Gagauzia, known for wine specific to the southern part of the country
• 45.9075 28.194444 6 Cahul — historically the site of many battles, now known for its spas
• 47.383056 28.823056 7 Orhei — fortified since the 6th century BC, also famous for its monastery

Other destinations [ edit ]

• 46.316389 28.666389 1 Gagauzia , an autonomous region within Moldova.
• 47.3 28.966667 2 Orhei National Park — Moldova's only national park

Understand [ edit ]

One of the smallest states of the former USSR, Moldova has been part of two historical empires: the Ottoman Empire and the Russian Empire . For several centuries, the country was under Ottoman influence but that all changed during the 1800s when the Russians took control of it. In the years to follow, Moldova became a part of the Russian Empire and later on, the Soviet Union , before declaring independence in the 1990s. Its fertile soils led to Moldova being dubbed "the garden" of the Soviet Union.

Since independence, Moldova has faced numerous difficulties, especially inter-ethnic conflict. Inter-ethnic tensions led to the creation of the proclaimed Transnistria Republic in eastern Moldova, which has its own government and currency but is not recognised by any UN member country. Economic links have been re-established between these two parts of Moldova despite the failure in political negotiations.

Similar to Switzerland , Moldova is committed to neutrality, and has decent relations with virtually every country in the world.

Despite Moldova's vast political and economic problems, Moldovans try to be happy and make the most of their situation.

Climate [ edit ]

Continental cold and snowy winters, mild springs and autumns, and warm to hot summers.

Terrain [ edit ]

Landlocked. Rolling steppe, gradual slope south towards the Black Sea. Well endowed with various sedimentary rocks and minerals including sand, gravel, gypsum, and limestone. Natural hazards : experiences landslides (57 cases in 1998) due to extensive soil erosion from poor farming methods

The lowest point is the Dniester River at 2 m and the highest point is Bălănești Hill at 430 m.

History [ edit ]

It was a principality under the suzerainty (protection) of the Ottoman Empire, then part of the Russian Empire after 1811, then part of Romania after World War I. Moldova was forcefully incorporated into the Soviet Union during World War II.

• Independence Day — 27 August 1991 (from Soviet Union)
• Constitution — new constitution adopted 28 July 1994; replaces old Soviet constitution of 1979

Although independent from the Soviet Union since 1991, Russian forces have remained on Moldovan territory east of the Dniester River supporting the Slavic population, mostly Ukrainians and Russians, who have proclaimed the breakaway republic of Transnistria.

The poorest nation in Europe, Moldova became the first former Soviet state to elect a communist government and president in 2001. Despite subsequent losses, the Communist Party remains powerful in local politics.

Culture [ edit ]

Geographically located at the crossroads of Latin, Slavic and other cultures, Moldova has enriched its own culture by adopting and maintaining some of the traditions of its neighbours and of other influences.

Moldova has a distinct culture, but has heavy influences from Russia, Romania and Ukraine. These influences are most visible in the cuisine in Moldova. While Moldova has its own culinary style, including Mamaliga, Zeama, Placinta and other traditional dishes, a lot of the food eaten or sold here originated from Russia or Romania.

Moldovan music has a distinctive flair, but is what you might expect in eastern Europe. There are a lot of accordions, and the traditional costumes and dances are similar to Romanian traditional ones.

Visitor information [ edit ]

• Experience Moldova tourism information

Get in [ edit ]

Entry requirements [ edit ].

Citizens of Canada, CIS countries, the EU, Japan, Norway, Switzerland, UK and the US do not need a visa to enter Moldova and can stay in the country for up to 90 days within a six-month period without registration . Citizens of other countries must either obtain a visa in the nearest Moldovan embassy or alternatively could obtain a visa on arrival in Chișinău airport and on some land border crossings provided that an officially endorsed invitation letter from Moldova is obtained beforehand.

By entering into Moldova via Ukraine , you may be crossing Transnistria . Some buses from Odesa go through Tiraspol , while others go around, exchanging the two border crossings with more time on the road. Transnistria is an unrecognised state in the east of Moldova bordering Ukraine, which broke off from the country after a war in 1992. There are generally few issues for Westerners in crossing Transnistrian borders by bus, although foreign travellers have experienced problems in the past. There is, however, a small chance that foreign tourists may be asked to pay bribes, although the buses which travel between Ukraine, Transnistria and the rest of Moldova usually handle negotiations at the border well, collecting passports and negotiating with Transnistrian authorities. Also, there is no Moldovan border check between Transnistria and the rest of Moldova as Moldova does not recognise Transnistria as a state, so you might have some explaining to do when you try to leave Moldova without an entrance stamp.

By plane [ edit ]

Airlines that serve several destinations from Chisinau are Wizz Air, HiSky and Fly One . ( updated Feb 2024 )

Nearby airports are in Iași ( IAS  IATA ) and Bacău ( BCM  IATA ).

By train [ edit ]

Possibly the cheapest way to get into the country is to take the overnight train. There are daily trains from Romania.

The train from Bucharest leaves at 19:20 and arrives at about 08:10 and the train from Chișinău leaves at 17:20 arriving at 06:19 in Bucharest check the complete timetables here:

Bucharest - Chișinău [dead link]

Chișinău - Bucharest [dead link]

A ticket in a 2nd class, 4-berth sleeper is 593 Moldovan lei (~€28), or 685 Moldovan lei in a 1st class, 2-berth sleeper (2018). Since flights into Bucharest may be cheaper than those into Moldova, this may be an option if you have the time. It is now possible to buy tickets online [dead link] up to two weeks before departure (website in Romanian/Russian only). Just show your printout to the conductor when boarding. At the border crossing the carriages are lifted individually onto larger gauge wheels to fit Moldovan tracks. Crossing the border from Ukraine is smoother, as both countries use the same track gauge.

By car [ edit ]

When coming by car use a border crossing with a (non-stop) visa issuing office. You will have to pay a small road tax at the border. A person driving a car which is not registered in their own name must carry a letter of authority from the registered owner.

By bus [ edit ]

There are regular buses connecting Chișinău with Bucharest, Kyiv and most major Romanian and Ukrainian cities. There are 5-6 buses per day to and from Bucharest. Due to a longer stay at the border the trip takes around 10 hours. There is a basic toilet at the border, however most coaches do not make any other stops. You will also be able to travel to most European cities by bus with Moldovan bus companies. When coming by bus one should be sure to use a frontier with a (non-stop) visa issuing office.

• Kyiv , 2 daily, 250 lei, 12 hours
• Moscow , 4 daily, 700 lei, 30 hours
• Odesa , 20 daily, 90 lei, 5 hours
• Sevastopol , daily, 430 lei, 18 hours
• Brasov , 5 daily, 200 lei, 12 hours

By boat [ edit ]

Although the country is landlocked, there is a ferry service between Giurgiulești in Moldova and Istanbul , Turkey , plying the river Danube to reach the Black Sea. They leave Giurgiulesti every Monday and arrive at Istanbul the following Wednesday. It's not certain if this ferry service is only limited to the high season.

Get around [ edit ]

Moldova is a small country and you can easily reach major cities within an hour. Although highly impractical, a long walk to Chișinău from Bolhrad will take 34 hours.

The most reliable way of getting around the country is by bus. Buses can get you to most parts of the country. You can find information about long-distance bus services in Moldova on the Autogari website, for example. This site contains information on bus stations in Moldova, timetables and routes between cities.

Chișinău is the main transportation hub for the country. The three bus stations serve every city and town in Moldova. The fastest form of transport are small minibuses which seat around 15 people. Larger buses are also used and are marginally safer, because they travel at slower speeds.

In Chișinău there is a state run trolleybus system which includes many new vehicles. Fare is 6 lei; a conductor collects fares and issues tickets. There is also a 'bus service which operates with fewer routes.

Minibuses ( rutiere in Moldovan Romanian; marshrutki in Russian) are available in most cities. They are privately operated and are called by requesting the vehicle to stop, however can often be very crowded. Drivers should be paid on boarding (3 lei in Chișinău), however some insist on sitting down first and passing the money to the person in front of them to pass to the driver, so don't be alarmed if people behind you start handing you money.

Talk [ edit ]

The official language of Moldova is Romanian , limba română , which is a member of the Romance language family. This means that Romanian is related to languages such as Italian, Latin, French, Spanish and Portuguese.

Russian is widely spoken in the country, both as a first and second language. If you don't know any Romanian, communicating in Russian should be no problem.

Gagauz , a Turkic language, is a language of Gagauzia . It is closely related to Azerbaijani, Turkish, and Turkmen. If you know either of those three languages, you shouldn't have a problem picking up Gagauz.

Ukrainian is spoken by the Ukrainian minority and in parts of Transnistria .

English has been taught in Moldova since the 1990s, but few people speak it well enough to have a full conversation. Therefore, knowledge of Romanian and/or Russian is useful to get around the country independently.

Language can be a sensitive issue in this country, and the name of the native language is a source of endless political controversy. Some refer to Romanian as Romanian ( limba română ), while some refer to the same language as Moldovan ( limba moldovenească ), and others prefer to speak Russian.

See [ edit ]

Museums [ edit ]

There are several museums in central Chișinău , including the Museum of Archaeology and Ethnography, the Museum of Natural History and the National Museum of Fine Arts.

Wine [ edit ]

Moldova is famous for its wines, and high-quality wines at inexpensive prices are Moldova’s main tourist attraction.

• Brănești - A smaller and reasonably priced wine cellar. It lies close to Orheiul Vechi Monastery which makes it perfect for combining a monastery tour with wine tasting.

Monasteries [ edit ]

• 46.833333 29.483333 5 Bender (or Tighina in Romanian) - Another fortification is The Fortress of Bender, however it is being used as a military training ground and is off limits. The best views are from the bridge going towards Tiraspol.
• 47.60311 28.98483 6 Tipova Monastery - Rock monastery situated by Nistru river in mid-eastern Moldova.

Do [ edit ]

• Visit wine cellars

Buy [ edit ]

Money [ edit ].

The leu (plural: lei ) is the currency of Moldova (ISO 4217 code MDL ) . Like the Romanian leu, the Moldovan leu is subdivided into 100 bani (singular: ban). The name of the currency originates in Romania, and means "lion".

Visit at least one piața to see the Soviet memorabilia, but be careful as sellers may charge foreigners much higher prices than locals.

Banknotes are in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1,000 lei. Coins come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 25 and 50 bani, 1, 2, 5 and 10 lei.

Shopping [ edit ]

Local wine is of superb quality and cheap in comparison to other countries, but for political reasons is mostly unknown in Western Europe.

Tipping [ edit ]

Moldovans are not accustomed to tipping.

Eat [ edit ]

Chișinău is a good place for gourmands. There are a lot of good places to eat all over Chișinău.

Cheap, tasty food that is very popular with the locals is served in most places. For better service and more diverse food, there are a lot of small restaurants and cafés. Good restaurants have prices comparable to those elsewhere in Europe. For a quick lunch, fast food and pizza shops are recommended; these can be found at nearly every corner. For groceries, there are small shops all over. Some are even in front of apartment blocks just a few steps away from the entrances. For harder-to-find items, go to the supermarkets. For fresh fruits and vegetables, markets are a great place to shop. Most of the products are local, but there are a lot of sellers who to sell imported stuff, mostly oranges, bananas and other tropical fruits and vegetables. Meat and meat products are best purchased from supermarkets or shops. The quality is much better than from the market, and the prices aren't much higher.

While in Moldova, make sure you try at least some of the traditional dishes: Mămăligă, plăcintă and sarmale are essential for a complete experience during your visit to Moldova. For the full experience these should be accompanied by homemade wine.

Drink [ edit ]

Moldova has a long tradition of local wine . The reds are especially popular throughout the country. Most Moldovan villagers grow their own grapes and press their own wine, and many standard rural households will press thousands of litres per year.

The nightlife of Chișinău is also quite spectacular compared to what could be expected. It is the host of many clubs and bars that are equal in every aspect to many other places throughout Eastern Europe.

Sleep [ edit ]

Accommodation in Chișinău is surprisingly expensive and there is no shortage of €100 a night options. Most hotel prices are listed in euros but some are listed in US dollars.

Many smaller towns will have a Soviet relic hotel complete with service with a frown. Rates will be high for what you're getting. In many places it's possible to pay about €10 to stay in a local's house. This is an informal arrangement and can only be organized by talking to people upon arrival but it is well worth considering if you want to get out into the countryside.

Hostels . Hostelling is still in its infancy in Moldova, but there are a few nice hostels to be found in Chișinău. Amongst others Chișinău Hostel and Central Youth Hostel. Prices range from US$10–20.

Apartments . Many people in Chișinău rent out apartments. The location and quality can vary. Many are also not very modern. You may want to use a booking company as it may be hard to find people who speak English. Price €20–50.

Learn [ edit ]

While none are internationally accredited, there are universities in Chișinău, Bălți and Cahul.

Work [ edit ]

The unemployment rate in Moldova is one of the highest in Europe. In addition, salaries are very low. Many Moldovans go to work overseas.

For foreigners, it may be interesting to work in highly qualified industries, where, nevertheless, salaries are not as high as in most of Europe, although it is easy to get a work visa or work permit. The minimum wage here is about €125, and the average salary is €250-300.

Good doctors (especially dentists), IT specialists, economists, teachers of English, Spanish, Italian, French, Portuguese, German, Polish, Turkish are especially appreciated here. To teach languages, you must know Romanian or Russian.

Stay safe [ edit ]

Visitors to Moldova for business or romance should be aware of the potential risk of scams, particularly if first contact was made on the Internet. See International financial scams [dead link] and Russian Internet dating schemes [dead link] .

Corrupt police and border guards may try to extort bribe money but 'normal' crime rates are low. Locals are generally very friendly and will go to great lengths to provide hospitality to foreigners. You can expect a lengthy, and inevitably boozy, meal to be offered to you just in your honour.

Conservative dress must be worn at religious sites. Shorts are forbidden and women must cover their heads inside monasteries and churches.

While bribery and police corruption are still problems in Moldova, the situation is improving. It is still advised that tourists have the number of their embassy and the contact information of where they are staying. Foreigners are also required to have their passports on them at all times. There is however usually no one checking this in any normal setting.

Alcohol consumption can also be a problem. Running into drunks especially at night is common. Most are friendly; they often come off as aggressive and will invade your personal space. This can be scary the first couple of times. Politely walking away normally works. People coming from a country where less alcohol is consumed can find themselves becoming the drunks.

Stay healthy [ edit ]

Very few healthcare facilities are on par with Western standards, and accessibility may be hindered if you're not proficient in Romanian and/or Russian.

In the event of a serious medical emergency, it is strongly recommended that you make every effort to seek medical care elsewhere. Neighbouring Romania may have better healthcare facilities than neighbouring Ukraine .

The US Embassy in Moldova maintains a list of facilities that provide services in English. Refer to [2] for more information.

The heavy use of agricultural chemicals, including banned pesticides such as DDT, has contaminated soil and groundwater. If you are concerned, water for drinking, cooking and oral hygiene should be taken from a known safe source, as ordinary water treatment, including boiling, does not remove such chemical contamination.

Respect [ edit ]

As one of the least visited countries on the planet, you are likely to attract a lot of stares from the locals. Do not be alarmed or surprised; this doesn't indicate hostility, but rather, curiosity.

Since Moldova's tourist industry is barely developed and that it is one of the poorest countries in Europe, some Moldovans may treat you as a "walking wallet" or someone who is "wealthy". If you feel like you are about to be scammed by someone, simply ignore them and say something along the lines of "not interested" ( Romanian : Nu mă interesează ) or you can simply say "go away" ( Romanian : Pleacă )

Women [ edit ]

Women are widely respected in Moldovan society, perhaps more so than any other country in Europe . There are many female mayors in Moldova and there are many women who have high positions in the government.

Women are traditionally treated with chivalry. Foreign women should not be surprised or alarmed if their male Moldovan friends take the initiative to pay the bills at a restaurant, open every door in front of them, and/or help them carry items or objects. Men should understand that these nuances will be expected by Moldovan women, even if they're not in a romantic relationship with one.

In rural areas, it is a social taboo for women to smoke or drink alcohol. Although you may get away with it as a foreigner, it's best to follow suit so as to not stand out like a sore thumb.

Foreign women may often attract the attention of Moldovan men and are sometimes seen as "easy". You should especially be careful when making direct eye contact with Moldovan men; it can get a Moldovan man to think you are "into" him.

Sensitive issues [ edit ]

Be careful when discussing the possible unification of Moldova and Romania . Although it's not a hugely sensitive issue, many Moldovans are opposed to Moldova joining Romania especially in Gagauzia.

Always study your hosts. Some identify as "Moldovan", others identify as "Romanian", while others are ethnically Russian or Ukrainian. This also applies to language as well; even though Romanian is the official language of Moldova, as described above, some refer to it as "Moldovan" in Moldova.

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8 reasons to travel to Moldova, one of Europe’s least-visited countries

I’m going to make an embarrassing confession. Until recently I couldn’t point to Moldova on a map, let alone give fellow adventurers a single reason why it deserves a visit.

But after spending nearly a week in the country on Intrepid’s Moldova, Ukraine and Romania Explorer trip, I discovered so much more than its location (it’s wedged between Romania and Ukraine). One of Europe’s least visited countries, it’s slowly revealing itself to be packed full of worthwhile attractions and showing why you should travel to Moldova.

When there, my group and I walked, dined and danced alongside locals in modern cities and rural villages. I sampled food and drink much, much better than anticipated. I learned about the complicated history and the compelling culture. All this, and so much more.

Church in Comrat

With these experiences in mind, I’ve compiled a list of reasons to visit Moldova. Here are some must-dos, some spots the group loved, and an inside perspective into a region few travelers have yet to discover.

Reasons to visit Moldova

Make new friends.

It may take a little effort before locals warm to you, but they will. Consider this a quirk of history. The area, formerly known as Bessarabia, was ruled by multiple empires throughout history including the Ottomans and Russians. At one point it was a region of Romania, and later a territory in the Soviet Socialist Republic. After declaring independence in 1991, it has faced delicate relations with Russia, and has a breakaway region, Transnistria, within its borders.

New friends on my Intrepid tour

That is to say, Moldovans may be wary of visitors at first, but after a conversation (the younger generation speaks English) over a cup of strong coffee or a shot of local brandy, you’ll have a friend for life. This tour, packed with a mix of planned activities and free time, provides ample opportunity to meet locals perched on bar stools or lingering in outdoor cafes.

Sample wine in the world’s biggest cellar

From full-bodied reds to sweet white Rieslings, visitors will find plenty of wine in Moldova. While the wine is only now starting to be widely exported outside of Eastern Europe and Russia, it’s one of the best value in Europe. Diners can easily find a high-quality bottle for under $10 on restaurant menus or grab a bottle in a grocery store for half that.

Moldovan wine

One of the best spots to sample the spirits is the Mileștii Mici winery , whose 120 miles of underground tunnels hold the world’s largest collection of wine. It’s a must-see in Moldova, and our group made the pilgrimage to sample red, whites and sparkling wines from local vineyards in a tasting room dating back centuries.

The winery is so large that tour guides zipped us across a small portion of the tunnels in a car, as opposed to on foot.

Mileștii Mici winery

READ MORE ABOUT MOLDOVA’S WINE SCENE, AND WHAT IT’S LIKE EXPERIENCING IT WITH INTREPID TRAVEL

Sing and dance alongside a Eurovision finalist

Don’t discount the culture in this diminutive country. In 2005 Moldova’s favorite percussion-playing grandmother, Lidia Bejenaru, took the Eurovision stage with rock/funk group, Zdob şi Zdub.

Everyone’s new favorite grandma

They placed sixth – the country’s highest placement ever in Europe’s annual music showcase. The reason judges cite grandma’s energetic performance pounding the drums in traditional garb – a sort of sexagenarian version of Sheila E.

Today, she still performs typical Moldovan folk songs alongside her husband at ceremonies including cultural feasts and weddings. We had the chance to sing and dance with the duo at a home lunch overflowing with food and local wine. What an experience!

Experience Eastern European cafe culture

In Moldova’s capital, Chişinău, cafes, restaurants, and shops dot the roads surrounding Cathedral Park, as well as the Boulevard August 31 1989 (a lively street named for Moldova’s independence day). Sip a strong cup of coffee, similar to Turkish coffee, while nibbling on flaky pastries or cake-style sweets.

Alternatively, opt to relax al fresco with the locals lazing on benches in Cathedral Park while enjoying a takeout cup of espresso from one of the many snack stands offering beverages, ice cream and sweets.

One of Chișinău’s many parks

You’ll spot plenty of young entrepreneurs in warmer months taking advantage of the free Wi-Fi available throughout the green grounds.

THE FIRST WOMAN TO TRAVEL TO EVERY COUNTRY RECOMMENDS VISITING MOLDOVA. HERE’S WHY.

Explore Chişinău like a local

While smaller than Europe’s other capital cities, Chişinău still packs enough for a long weekend. In addition to lounging in the park, stroll the Piata Centrala. This is the city’s main outdoor market and boasts vendors selling fruits, meat, clothing and just about anything else available in a mega-mart back home.

Ask your guide for primer on Moldovan shopping etiquette, then hone your haggling skills at the Souvenir Bazaar, which carries far more than trinkets. Here you’ll find antiques, souvenirs, artisanal goods, and plenty of Communist-era relics. If you ask nicely, you may even get a free kaval (traditional flute) lesson from a local musician.

Man with kaval (flute)

Leave time to explore the Nativity of Christ Metropolitan Cathedral, the city’s main Orthodox church boasting impressive frescoes and a reconstructed bell tower (the original was destroyed in WWII).

Don’t be afraid to take the trolley buses. The routes are extensive, and a one-way fare is about $0.15. Download an interactive map before arrival for easy navigation.

Trolley bus in Moldova

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Run through fields of sunflowers

No visit during summer is complete without stopping to smell the (sun) flowers. Most car trips through the countryside wind across small roads and large highways where you’ll pass fields of the bright yellow blossoms that stretch for miles across the horizon.

Stop to snap an Instagram, but know that the flowers are much more than decorative. Moldova depends on the hearty helianthus annuus as a major export crop, processing the seed for food products and cooking oil.

CHECK OUT THE INTREPID TRIP TO MOLDOVA, UKRAINE AND ROMANIA THIS WRITER VENTURED ON

Feast on a budget

Where can you indulge in a three-course meal, with local wine, for under $10? Moldova. From casual spots in Comrat to restaurants offering traditional or international style cuisine in Chişinău, meals will hardly make a dent in the wallet.

Traditional meat and veggie dishes

The country is known for meat-heavy dishes, however there’s plenty of lighter options and vegetarian dishes. Be sure to sample Moldovan-style borscht which can be ordered with or without meat.

Dining with my fellow travelers was a great way to sample a large variety of local foods, including Plăcintă, a savory pastry available with a variety of fillings including salty cheeses or meats. If you’re on the road and not sure what to eat, look for an Andy’s Pizza. It’s a local chain that offers pizza, Moldovan specialties, salads, and cocktails.

Andy’s Pizza

Insider tip: restaurant service is much slower than in Western Europe. They aren’t ignoring you, it’s just a different pace. Be sure to leave enough time if you have a bus or train to catch.

CHECK OUT OTHER LESSER-KNOWN CORNERS OF EUROPE YOU SHOULD DISCOVER

Discover hidden monasteries

If climbing to the top of a hill to visit an ancient cave monastery isn’t on your bucket list, it should be. The Orhei Vechi monastery is perched high atop a hill overlooking the Răut River. The structure was dug by Orthodox monks in the 13th century, abandoned in the 18th century, and is currently home to a few solitary monks once again.

Orhei Vechi monastery

Walk outside to the cliff’s ledge and place a coin in the naturally pitted limestone structure for good luck. Just don’t look down if you are afraid of heights!

And don’t wait until this country gets discovered by travelers worldwide. Now is the time to visit before tourism to Moldova increases!

Experience Moldova on a small group adventure with Intrepid Travel. Check them out.

(Hero image c/o Nir Nussbaum (repeated inline). All other images c/o Kristin Amico.)

Feeling inspired?

Kristin Amico

In early 2017 I quit my full-time job, gave up my Boston apartment, sold most of my belongings, and bought a one-way ticket overseas. I'm currently spending a year living nomadically and eating my way across Europe and Asia. My food and travel writing has appeared on Intrepid Travel, Fodor's, Paste Magazine, and The Kitchn. Follow my adventure on Instagram @Kristinamico.

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The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office ( FCDO ) provides advice about risks of travel to help British nationals make informed decisions. Find out more about FCDO travel advice .

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Transnistria

FCDO advises against all travel to Transnistria.

There is widespread military activity in Ukraine, including close to some Moldovan borders. Transnistria is outside the control of the Moldovan government.  

FCDO ’s ability to offer support is extremely limited and will be more limited if there is military action on or near the Moldova-Ukraine border.

Do not attempt to cross into Ukraine from Moldova.   

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Moldova Travel Guide 2024: Unveiling Hidden Charms and Authentic Experiences

Explore Moldova like never before with our comprehensive travel guide. From underground wine cellars to historic monasteries, discover the best attractions, must-try cuisine, and insider tips for an unforgettable journey in 2024. Embrace the authenticity of Eastern Europe’s hidden gem with our Moldova travel insights.

Welcome to Moldova, a captivating destination where history, culture, and natural beauty converge to offer a truly authentic experience. As your dedicated travel companion, I am thrilled to present an extensive guide to Moldova in 2024. Join me as we delve into the best tourist attractions, discover unique experiences, and indulge in the delectable cuisine that defines this often-overlooked gem.

Best Tourist Attractions: Exploring Moldova’s Rich Tapestry

• Chisinau: Capital City Charisma Commence your Moldovan journey in Chisinau, a city that effortlessly blends tradition and modernity. Marvel at the Nativity Cathedral’s architectural splendor, take a leisurely stroll through the leafy Stefan cel Mare Park, and delve into the nation’s past at the National Museum of History.
• Milestii Mici: A Subterranean Wine Symphony Descend into the enchanting world of Milestii Mici, the world’s largest underground wine cellar. Traverse kilometers of tunnels lined with oak barrels, tasting Moldova’s diverse wine varieties. Don’t miss the chance to explore the wine museum and witness the artistry of Moldovan winemaking.
• Orheiul Vechi: Timeless Beauty Carved in Stone Embark on a journey to Orheiul Vechi, a place where history and nature intertwine seamlessly. Explore the ancient cave monasteries that bear witness to Moldova’s spiritual roots, set against the stunning backdrop of limestone cliffs.
• Transnistria: A Soviet Relic Step back in time by visiting Transnistria, a self-proclaimed republic frozen in the Soviet era. Wander through Tiraspol’s streets, adorned with Soviet-style architecture, and visit the iconic Tank Monument, a poignant reminder of a bygone era.
• Cricova Winery: Beneath the Vineyard Veil Indulge in the rich heritage of Moldovan wine at Cricova Winery. Navigate the labyrinthine underground cellars, where millions of bottles rest, aging gracefully. Immerse yourself in wine-tasting sessions, allowing the flavors of Moldova to dance on your palate.

Top Things to Do In Moldova:

• Wine Tour Through Moldova’s Vineyards Embark on a wine odyssey through Moldova’s picturesque vineyards. Visit local wineries, engage with passionate winemakers, and savor the distinct terroir of Moldovan wines, from the robust reds to the crisp whites.
• Explore Old Orhei on Two Wheels Uncover the charm of Old Orhei on a cycling adventure. Pedal through rolling landscapes, visit quaint villages, and witness the timeless traditions that define the soul of Moldova.
• Join a Traditional Hora Dance Immerse yourself in the lively culture of Moldova by participating in a traditional hora dance. Let the music guide your steps as you join locals in this communal celebration, creating cherished memories in the heart of Moldova.
• Hot Air Balloon Ride Over Moldova Elevate your Moldovan experience with a hot air balloon ride. Soar above lush vineyards, historic landmarks, and scenic countryside, capturing breathtaking views that encapsulate the beauty of Moldova.
• Day Trip to Saharna Monastery and Waterfall Embark on a day trip to Saharna Monastery, surrounded by nature’s embrace. Hike to the Saharna Waterfall, a serene oasis where you can find tranquility and connect with Moldova’s natural wonders.

How to Reach: Navigating the Heart of Moldova

Plan your Moldovan adventure with these transportation insights:

• Chisinau International Airport: Gateway to Moldova Initiate your Moldovan exploration by landing at Chisinau International Airport. Conveniently located near the capital, it serves as the primary entry point, connecting Moldova to the world.
• Efficient Public Transportation Discover Moldova’s cities and towns with ease using the efficient public transportation system. Buses and trolleys offer affordable and convenient options for navigating both the capital and beyond.
• Rent a Car for Rural Exploration For independent adventurers, consider renting a car to explore Moldova’s rural landscapes and discover hidden gems at your own pace.
• Train Journeys Through Moldova Experience the scenic beauty of Moldova by opting for train travel. The rail network connects major cities and provides a comfortable and picturesque journey through the heart of the country.

Best Time to Travel: Seasons and Festivals of Moldova

Select the optimal time for your Moldovan sojourn, considering climate and cultural events:

• Spring (April to June): Blossoming Landscapes Embark on your Moldovan adventure in spring, when nature awakens, and landscapes burst into bloom. Attend the Martisor Festival, celebrating the season with vibrant traditions and cultural events.
• Summer (July to August): Wine Festivals and Outdoor Revelry Experience the vibrancy of Moldova in summer, marked by wine festivals, open-air concerts, and cultural celebrations. Delight in the National Wine Day festivities and explore the countryside teeming with life.
• Autumn (September to November): Harvest Celebrations Celebrate the grape harvest season in Moldova during autumn. Participate in harvest festivals, visit local wineries, and witness the rolling hills adorned in the warm hues of fall.
• Winter (December to February): Cozy Evenings in Wine Cellars Embrace the winter charm of Moldova with cozy evenings in wine cellars. Engage in seasonal events, savor local cuisine, and experience the genuine warmth of Moldovan hospitality during the festive season.

Must-Try Food: A Gastronomic Journey Through Moldova

Embark on a culinary adventure with these authentic Moldovan dishes:

• Mămăligă: The Heart of Moldovan Cuisine Indulge in mămăligă, a traditional cornmeal porridge that forms the heart of Moldovan cuisine. Often served with cheese, sour cream, or meat, it exemplifies the comfort and authenticity of Moldovan culinary traditions.
• Plăcintă: Pastries That Tell Stories Delight your taste buds with plăcintă, a beloved Moldovan pastry filled with a variety of ingredients. Whether savory or sweet, each bite unveils a unique story of Moldova’s culinary diversity.
• Sarmale: Time-Honored Stuffed Cabbage Rolls Savor sarmale, cabbage leaves stuffed with a delectable mix of rice and minced meat. A dish deeply rooted in Moldovan tradition, it graces festive tables with its hearty and flavorful presence.
• Wine Pairing Extravaganza Elevate your Moldovan culinary experience with a wine pairing extravaganza. Sample local wines alongside traditional dishes, unlocking a symphony of flavors that mirrors the essence of Moldova.

Religious and Cultural Experiences In Moldova:

• Orthodox Monasteries: A Spiritual Journey Embark on a spiritual journey by visiting Moldova’s Orthodox monasteries. The Capriana Monastery, founded in the 15th century, and the Saharna Monastery stand as cultural and spiritual landmarks, inviting introspection.
• Participate in Moldovan Festivals Immerse yourself in Moldova’s vibrant culture by participating in local festivals. From the Martisor Festival in spring to the National Wine Day celebrations, each event offers a unique window into Moldova’s rich traditions.
• Discover Gagauz Culture in Comrat Venture to Comrat to explore the Gagauz culture, an ethnic group with a significant presence in Moldova. Visit the Gagauzian Autonomous Territorial Unit to witness their traditions, crafts, and lively festivals.

Conclusion: Moldova, with its authentic charm and undiscovered wonders, invites you to embark on a journey that transcends the ordinary. From the underground wine cellars to the timeless landscapes of Old Orhei, every corner of Moldova tells a unique story waiting to be discovered.

Embrace the warmth of Moldovan hospitality, savor its diverse flavors, and create enduring memories in a destination where tradition and modernity harmoniously coexist. Safe travels!

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Moldova Travel Advisory

Travel advisory march 14, 2024, moldova - level 2: exercise increased caution.

Reissued with obsolete COVID-19 page links removed. 

Exercise increased caution while traveling to Moldova due to unresolved conflict between the breakaway region of Transnistria and the central government. Read the entire Travel Advisory.

Reconsider Travel To:

The Transnistria breakaway region due to the unresolved conflict with the central government and the armed conflict in neighboring Ukraine.

Country Summary:    Approximately 100,000 refugees are residing in Moldova as a result of Russia’s war in Ukraine, but there has been no military spillover into Moldova from the conflict. As of December 2023, the Moldovan government has ended its State of Emergency. The Chisinau airport is operating normally although there are no flights available to or from Belarus, Russia or Ukraine. 

Read the Moldova  country information page  for additional information on travel.

If you decide to travel to Moldova:

• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program  ( STEP ) to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Follow the Department of State on  Facebook  and  Twitter.
• Review the  Country Security Report  for Moldova.
• Visit the CDC page for the latest  Travel Health Information  related to your travel.
• U.S. citizens who travel abroad should always have a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the  Traveler’s Checklist .

Transnistria – Level 3: Reconsider Travel

Transnistria is a breakaway region that is not under the control of the Moldovan government in Chisinau. Visitors are required to present identification to cross the administrative boundary of the Transnistria region; those without a Moldovan government-issued identification document may be requested to present a passport. Visitors may also be required to present identification and/or a passport at additional checkpoints manned by uniformed peacekeepers along roads leading into and out of the region. Ukraine has closed its border crossing points into the Transnistrian region. Taking photographs of military facilities and security forces is prohibited and may result in trouble with authorities.

The U.S. government’s ability to provide emergency services to U.S. citizens traveling in Transnistria maybe be limited or delayed since Transnistria’s de facto authorities control access to the region.

Visit our website for  Travel to High-Risk Areas .

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12 reasons to visit Moldova - Europe's least-visited country

Book your individual trip , stress-free with local travel experts

• roughguides.com
• reasons-to-visit-moldova

written by Joanne Owen

updated 9.07.2021

However well-travelled you might be, chances are, Moldova isn’t one of the countries already ticked off your list for the simple reason that it’s Europe’s least-visited country. Yet this enigmatic land tucked between  Romania  and  Ukraine  has much to offer travellers seeking unspoilt nature and intriguing culture - far from the madding selfie-stick-brandishing crowd.

1. Enjoy exceptional wine (Shh! It’s a secret)

2. meander magnificent monasteries, 3. explore archeological treasures.

• 4. Visit a country that doesn't exist

5. Quaff world-class cognac

6. absorb parisian elegance, 7. experience soviet-style ambience, 8. mooch around museums, 9. eat hearty homestyle food, 10. encounter bison in fairy-tale forests, 11. marvel at mysterious mounds, 12. be captivated by caves, moldova in brief.

Moldova’s countryside is dappled with buttercup-yellow monasteries and record-breaking wineries, while capital city Chişinău serves a tasty blend of Paris-style boulevards with a side of Soviet chic. Then there’s the breakaway nation of Transnistria to explore. One thing’s for sure, visiting Moldova makes for a refreshingly unique European break - read on for 12 reasons to shunt it up your must-visit list.

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Though enjoying rising global acclaim, Moldovan wine remains under the radar of all but a few in the know oenophiles - somewhat surprising (if not criminal in wine terms) given its quality, and the fact that grapes have been cultivated in the region since at least 2800 BC.

Underground wine barrels at Milestii Mici Winery near Chisinau, Moldova © FrimuFilms/Shutterstock

To right that wrong, visit Moldova’s most impressive winery,  Milestii Mici , which is located a mere 30 minutes’ drive south of Chişinău. With 1.5 million bottles stored in a 55km subterranean labyrinth, it boasts the world’s largest wine collection, as recognised by the Guinness Book of Records. A  tour  of the winery takes in the tunnels via electric train or bicycles, with the option to eat, drink and make merry in the  opulent tasting halls  - a glamourous must-do experience for gourmands visiting Moldova.

Monastic life thrives across Moldova, meaning that church frescoes are lovingly maintained, tulip gardens immaculately manicured, and silvery domes polished to a shine, and you don’t have to be especially religious-minded to appreciate their beauty and history either.

Capriana Monastery , for example, is among the country’s finest architectural sights. Located 40km northeast of Chişinău, and often called the cradle of Moldovan culture, this complex of three churches surrounded by rolling hills and forests really is a top reason to visit Moldova. Established in 1429, the site’s Church of the Dormition is the country’s oldest church. To sample Moldova’s monastic culture (and wine) in convenient, comfortable style, you could look to book a multi-site tour  that combines exploring Capriana Monastery with a visit to  Cricova Winery and some of Chişinău’s highlights.

Another must-visit Moldovan marvel comes courtesy of  Saharna Monastery . Given its stunning location - encircled by rocky hills and thick forests in a corner of north-eastern Moldova - it’s little wonder that this a popular place of pilgrimage (though we’re not talking Lourdes level visitor numbers). It’s also the perfect spot to enjoy a peaceful woodland walk with waterfalls tinkling in the background. Oh, and history buffs will be keen to explore the Iron Age fortress remains.

After traversing Moldova's tapestry of wildflower meadows and cornfields, the archaeological and ecclesiastical complex of Orheiul Vechi (Old Orhei) is a riveting contrast - a monastery resplendent with golden domes and white bell-towers backed by ashen cliffs. Situated 50km north of Chişinău, Orheiul Vechi is most known for its Cave Monastery - a complex of rooms and tunnels cut into a rocky ridge above the Răut River. But there’s more to this UNESCO World Heritage site than the monastery alone - traces of human life dating back to Paleolithic times have been unearthed here, and it’s been inhabited by hermit monks seeking solitude in its caves since the fourteenth-century.

Old Orhei monastery © Calin Stan/Shutterstock

To experience the fullness of Orheiul Vechi’s history and natural beauty, a ramble around the area comes highly recommended. Walkers will be rewarded with the picturesque sight of powder-blue farmhouses and splendid views over the cliff-top monastery, with villages like quiet Ivancea and folksy Brăneşti connected by fairly level terrain.

4. Visit a country that doesn't exist

That may sound strange, but it’s entirely true. Unrecognised by other countries, yet fiercely distinct from the rest of Moldova, the breakaway nation of Transnistria (officially the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic - PMR) is an unforgettable day-trip to take from Chişinău, and certainly an essential experience when you visit Moldova. Tucked between Moldova and Ukraine, this contested strip of land has its own border control and currency, though the overwhelmingly pro-independence (and pro-Russian) results of its 2006 referendum have left it in political limbo.

House of Soviets - Soviet architecture in Tiraspol, Transnistria (Moldova) © Yury24/Shutterstock

A 12-hour stay in Transnistria requires no advance paperwork: simply bring your passport and register at the border offices. In a single day, you can visit the imposing fifteenth-century fortress at Bender, stroll among Lenin statues and grand war memorials in capital Tiraspol, and buy a jar of honey from gorgeous Noul Neamţ (a working all-male monastery).

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While on your Transnistria day-trip, it’s worth making time to taste Tiraspol’s best-known creation -  KVINT Divin cognac, though the distillery produces plenty of award-wining wine too. KVINT, by the way, is an acronym for “Kon'iaki, vina i napitki Tiraspol'ia”, meaning “cognacs, wines and beverages of Tiraspol”. 

KVINT — Tiraspol Wine and Brandy Factory © saikorn/Shutterstock

With spirits created on-site since 1897, when the company specialised in vodka produced from home-brewed wine, they now grow over thirty varieties of grapes on 2000 hectares, with an annual output of 20 million bottles of brandy, gin and vodka, plus a plethora of table and vintage wines. With a host of  tasting packages  to enjoy, your only problem is remembering to return to Chişinău.

Yep - you read that right. Saunter past the Arc de Triomphe. Amble along tree-lined boulevards where chic locals dunk croissants into café au lait… surprisingly, there’s more than a whiff of Paris about Chişinău. Boulevards are fringed by weeping willows, green spaces like Parcul Catedralei breathe life into the city centre, and the Arcul de Triumf is a dead ringer for France’s famous monument. To stay in style near the Arc,  Art-Rustic Boutique Hotel  is an elegant option.

What’s more, the city has wholeheartedly embraced French patisserie and coffee culture. Try  Creme de la Creme  for gorgeous gateaux and caramel lattes, and  Panna Cotta  for macarons and florentines.

Chişinău's pretty Parisian side © ungureanuvadim/Shutterstock

Fear not if you prefer gritty to Paris-style pretty - Chişinău is a city of two halves, with forbidding brutalist architecture standing strong between its grassy squares and crumbling nineteenth-century townhouses. 

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Famous Circul building in Chisinau city, Moldova © Fotokon/Shutterstock

Arguably the most interesting of these buildings is the  Circul , a striking circus building northeast of central Chişinău. This spiky circular crown of concrete couldn’t look less like a traditional big top if it really, really tried. Other brutalist-style buildings to make a beeline for include the Presidency of the Republic of Moldova, the Parliament of the Republic of Moldova, the Moldova National Opera Ballet building, and Dinamo Stadium.

Strolling elegant Strada 31 August in Chişinău, it’s impossible to miss the garden packed with rocket launchers and dark green tanks. Behind this graveyard of defused weapons and aeroplanes lies the city’s Military Museum, one of Chişinău’s most impressive sights. Weaponry from thirteenth-century sabres to AK-47s illustrates the turbulent history of this young nation, while blood-curdling dioramas and WWII footage give an unflinching account of the hardships that preceded the birth of the Republic of Moldova in 1990.  

But there’s more to Chişinău’s cultural scene than military-themed museums. Culture-vultures will love the  National Museum of Ethnography and Natural History  that's housed in a beautiful building not too far from the centre of town. 

National Museum of Ethnography and Natural History of Chisinau, Moldova © Kahkean.photography/Shutterstock

Meanwhile, bibliophiles will want to check out the Alexander Pushkin Museum, formerly home to the famous poet for three years, and now home to a collection of paintings, sculptures and editions of some of the works he wrote here. Then there’s the grand  National Art Museum of Moldova , featuring works by 19th and 20th-century Moldovan artists along with exhibitions of local contemporary artists. 

Chişinău is chock-a-block with welcoming restaurants serving tasty traditional fodder. Take La Taifas on Strada București, for example. This atmospheric basement restaurant serves Moldovan classics - pastries packed with cheese, mushroom, pork, or cherries; meatball soup; roast rabbit - with local musicians performing during evening service.

Stuffed pastries and bread © Shutterstock

Further afield, if you fancy bunking down in a creaky farmhouse, and waking to a chorus of cockerels, the countryside around Orhei has a smattering of agro-tourism outfits, where half-board bookings include a feast of home-cooked Moldovan food.  Casa din Lunca Pension  in Trebujeny serves up a particularly impressive spread - thick slabs of mămăligă (polenta) jostle for table space with grilled lamb, and salads sprinkled with salty sheep’s cheese. Gulping the last drop of plummy Codru wine as another horse and cart rattles past, you can truly embrace life in Moldova’s slow lane.

Spanning over 6000 hectares, the  Padurea Domneasca  (Royal Forest) Nature Reserve is the largest of its kind in Moldova. Sitting pretty on the banks of the River Prut, and bordered on one side by Romania, it’s blessed with a dense bounty of trees - willow, oak, poplar and beech - with a huge population of herons around its lake.

Mighty European bison © Shutterstock

With well-marked hiking trails, comfortable cabins overlooking the wetlands to overnight in, plus populations of red deer and European bison, this is a paradise for travellers seeking a back-to-nature break, with the chance to encounter some mightily impressive beasts.

On the edge of Padurea Domneasca Reserve, between the villages Braniste and Avrameni near the Prut River, you’ll find a haunting expanse of land known as the 100 Hills.

A hundred mounds in the north of Moldova © FrimuFilms/Shutterstock

Since this 8km stretch of undulating mounds look so perfectly attuned to the flow of the meadows that run alongside the river, you could be forgiven for thinking they’re manmade. Yet scientists are investigating the cause of this phenomenon - landslides? Ancient avalanches? The remnants of 20 million-year-old reefs? While the debate runs on, the romantics among you might prefer the legend. According to local lore, this land was the site of bloody ancient battles and these mounds are the burial places of fallen soldiers, the largest of them allocated to heroes. Either way, it’s an absorbing place to amble when you visit Moldova.

More correctly, that should probably read “be surprised”, for Moldova’s second longest cave system is endearingly known as the Cave of Surprises. 40km from the capital, and stretching for 1700m on the right bank of the river Nistru, it’s thought to have been formed around 11 million years ago. And the surprise? The network was only discovered in the 1970s. 

Today visitors can enjoy exploring the natural limestone halls and chambers, the largest of which is a whopping ten metres high. A word of warning, though - with some narrow spots to squeeze through, this isn’t for the claustrophobic (or confirmed chiroptophobics - the caves are home to a huge population of bats), but it’s sure to satisfy adventurers visiting Moldova.

Moldova's Old Orhei area in awe-inspiring autumnal livery © Jukov studio/Shutterstock

Why should I visit Moldova? Is it worth visiting Moldova?

As we said at the start, Moldova is Europe’s least-visited country. But don’t make the mistake of seeing that as a reason to not visit Moldova. In fact, this makes it the perfect place for travellers who’ve been there and done that elsewhere in Europe. In short, Moldova is well worth visiting if you want to escape well-worn, crowd-packed paths, and if you like wine. Talking of which…

Why is Moldova famous?

Mainly for its world-class wine, ancient monasteries and unspoiled open countryside - and for its distinct lack of crowds. A pretty great combo, if you ask us.

Is Moldova expensive to visit?

You can confidently add “it’s inexpensive” to your growing list of reasons to visit Moldova. Chişinău has plenty of hostels and apartments for travellers on a budget, and even the fanciest hotels offer good value. Eating out is affordable, especially so in the countryside, and the cost of wine (did we mention the wine?) represents excellent value for excellent quality.

At Rough Guides we’ve always taken pride in telling it like it is - whether we’re updating details in our guide books, or researching emerging destinations. With that in mind, we want you to know that when you click on links that lead to our affiliate partners’ sites, we can earn a small commission (at no cost to you). This is one of the ways we’re able to keep doing what we do best - provide you with travel advice and inspiration you can trust. Speaking of which, you can trust what we link to - our travel writer experts are exactly that (experts) and have highlighted them to share ideas that might make your trips all the more satisfying.

Joanne is a Pembrokeshire-born writer with a passion for the nature, cultures and histories of the Caribbean region, especially Dominica. Also passionate about inspiring a love of adventure in young people, she’s the author of several books for children and young adults, hosts international writing workshops, and has written articles on the Caribbean and inspirational community initiatives for Rough Guides. Follow her @JoanneOwen on Twitter and @joanneowenwrites on Instagram.

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The Perfect Moldova Travel Itinerary: Chisinau, Transinistria, And Cricova

• Last Updated On: September 8, 2023

Moldova is probably one of the last places that people think to visit when visiting Europe. It’s sandwiched between much larger countries in Romania and Ukraine which people also glance over (although I absolutely love Kyiv Ukraine ). I’m not here to say that you’ll find beautiful European historical monuments in Moldova because you likely won’t.

What you will find is a fascinating country that has gone through incredible economic and political hardships in its history. The balance of new and old is striking in this country which holds the title of least visited in Europe.

You will find some of the most underrated and delicious wines in Europe which was completely unexpected for me. You will also find incredibly fresh produce and some of the most delicious tomatoes I’ve had in my life. Moldova is probably not the place for a novice European traveler but it is well worth the visit!

Where I went in Moldova

I had five days to spend in Moldova which I think is probably enough to see the sights. You could probably even spend less time as there aren’t a whole lot of things to do here.

I didn’t do a great deal of research in planning this trip because there aren’t too many resources online. I found a flight from Frankfurt to Chisinau on Air Moldova for 130 euros and off I went.

These are the places I visited in Moldova:

• Transinistria
• Cricova Winery
• Orheiul vechi monastery

If these places ring a bell and sound like the places you want to visit, this is the perfect itinerary for you! Again, there isn’t a whole lot to do in Moldova but it was just fascinating to learn about the history of a country that was a part of the USSR.

How to get around Moldova

Moldova is a very small country, the smallest by land mass in Europe. The international airport is Chisinau and there are direct flights to the Moldovan capitals from many big European cities.

Alternatively, many people reach Moldova by Ukraine via Odessa. There are regular buses that go from Odessa to Chisinau. There are also direct buses from Bucharest to Chisinau.

Once in the country, the best way to get around to smaller towns and destinations is by local buses called Marshrutkas. These buses generally leave on time but sometimes wait until there are certain amounts of people.

Use the Yandex App

Ride hailing has really made it easier to travel in Moldova. Yandex is the most widely used ride hailing app in the country and it is great for trips around Chisinau, but also short trips to nearby towns. I actually used the Yandex App to go to the Cricova winery which took 30 minutes and cost about 120 MDL (€6 or so).

The Moldovan Leu Currency

Moldova uses the Moldovan Leu currency. It trades around 20 MDL to €1 at the time of writing. Most places in Chisinau accept credit card but it is good to have cash on hand for smaller establishments and especially once you leave the main city.

You will need Moldovan Leu or other currencies when visiting Transinistria as they only use their own currency (the Transinistrian Ruble).

Cost of goods in Moldova

Moldova is probably one of the cheapest countries in Europe for a visit. The GDP per capita of Moldova is among the very bottom along with Kosovo and the prices of food and alcohol will reflect that. A cheap local meal can be had for a few euros and a glass of wine is no more than €2 at a decent restaurant.

However, in Chisinau, there are plenty of establishments and touristy restaurants where prices are much much higher. However, you would expect that in most cities. Cost of public transportation is incredibly cheap. The bus from the airport to Chisinau is only 2 MDL for example (€0.1) and accommodation in the city center is very cheap.

All in all, I would not worry about breaking the bank when visiting Moldova. You can have a great time here without worrying about the finances .

What is the Moldova Language?

Moldova is bit unknown on the global stage. The Moldovan people speak  Romanian  as their primary language. After WW2, Moldova was a part of the Soviet Union and therefore everyone learned Russian. Nowadays, most people in the country speak Romanian and Russian. Young Moldovans learn Russian in school unlike their former Soviet counterparts in the Baltic countries that are not so keen on the Slavic language.

Ethnically, Moldovans are essentially Romanians by ancestry. There was even talk of the country reuniting with Romania after the fall of the Soviet Union but this never materialized. You’ll see that the flags of the two countries are quite similar

Full Moldova Trip Itinerary

From Chisinau, I took a day trip to the Autonomous region of Transinistria. This fascinating little area on the Moldova/Ukraine border is essentially its own country that no one else in the world recognizes. More on that later in the post.

The following day, I rented a car and visited the numerous wineries in Moldova. Along the way, I stopped by some famous monasteries and had lunch at perhaps one of the coolest restaurants I’ve ever seen. Again, totally unexpected but very welcome.

Day 1-2: Chisinau, Moldova’s Capital City

The trip starts in Chisinau, the capital city of Moldova. I’m not going to lie, Chisinau is perhaps one of the least attractive cities in Europe. Being in the center of the region meant it was constantly being fought over by the likes of the Ottomans, Russians, and Romanians. This is all before World War 2 as well. Nazis and Soviets changed hands and two Earthquakes in the 1940s devastated what was left.

The city was mostly built during Soviet times and the architecture reflects that. It’s essentially a mix of random buildings and Soviet buildings.

While it’s not your quintessential European city experience, there are plenty of things to see and do here. Like Prishtina in Kosovo or Tirana in Albania , this city is more about the new age character than about its historical beauty.

Chisinau’s compact size means you can see most of the sights in a breeze without having to plan much. I felt very safe in the city even in the middle of the night which was not a surprise to me. There are very few tourists here so it’s likely people will want to ask where you’re from and specifically why you chose to come to Chisinau when you have the rest of Europe on offer. I always enjoy these questions because I simply answer, “why not?” which makes people happy.

Visit the Cathedral Park and Arc De Triumph

You won’t be able to walk through Chisinau without visiting the Cathedral Park. This is the main park of the city (albeit not so large). It is a clean and spacious park that has cafes, monuments and plenty of green space.

The main landmark in the city is without a doubt the Arc de Triumph. Yes, lots of cities have this like but of course the mother of all Arcs is in Paris. Don’t expect anything close to the beautiful Arc in Paris. It’s probably 1/4 the size but nevertheless it is the monument of the city nonetheless. It was built in the 19th century to commemorate the Russian victory over the Ottoman empire which ruled over Chisinau for so long.

The Cathedral of Christ’s Nativity in the heart of Chișinău is the main cathedral of the Moldovan Orthodox Church and was built in neoclassical design in the 1830s.

Bombed during World War Two and then desecrated by communists, the Nativity Cathedral Chișinău was lovingly restored in 1997 after Soviet restrictions on worship had been lifted, and today it is truly the center of faith in Moldova. Pop your head in, and you will often see everything from quiet moments of spirituality to full-blown sermons with a live television crew, and a crowd packed in tighter than sardines in a can!

Parliament of the Republic of Moldova

While there are no tours and you’re not allowed inside, you have to see what is most likely the world’s ugliest parliament building – and wander the eerily quiet grounds.

Wondering where all the politicians are?

We were too, and all we saw here was one surprised security guard who could not for the life of himself figure out why a tourist would want to see the parliament here. The building is actually the former meeting place of the Central Committee of the Moldovan branch of the Communist Party of the Soviet Union and was badly damaged during riots in 2009.

More interesting after a chat with Moldovan’s about the fractured state of politics here — but then again, where isn’t these days!

Go out in Chisinau City

Chisinau is not the party central of Europe like other cities have become. However, if you are traveling through Moldova, you will be able to have a good time at the various establishments the city has to offer.

The nightlife scene in Chisinau has really evolved over the years and there are plenty of good cocktail bars, wine bars, and restaurants that will keep you busy.

Chisinau is served by the Yandex taxi app so make sure to download this here to ride hail your way around the city. It is very cheap and you’ll likely not need to use it much as everything is so walkable.

• Marlene Cocktail Bar:  Best cocktails in the city
• Vatra Neamului:  Great spot for Romanian food
• Black Rabbit:  Another really good local restaurant
• Creme de la Creme:  Great breakfast cafe type of spot where plenty of people hang out. Great place to have syrnikiwhich is the local Eastern European cheese pancakes
• Ştefaniţa Plăcinte:  Must visit to try the local placinte pastry
• Boujour Cafe:  Great place in the park for a morning coffee
• Grill House:  Upscale restaurant serving delicious grilled meats
• Zaxi:  The trendy rooftop bar experience

Visit the central market of Chisinau

A half hour later, I was still walking through the market in a straight line. This outdoor market is one of the biggest if not the biggest market I’ve ever seen. You will find everything and anything here. I’m not big into buying souvenirs or goods, but it was interesting to walk through it nonetheless!

Day 3: Transinistria Day Trip from Chisinau

Transinistria is one of the top day trips in Moldova because it’s a complete novelty to visit an Autonomous region that no other country recognizes. Tiraspol is the capital of Transinistria and its Soviet roots are strong. As soon as you enter the region, everything is in Cyrillic immediately. You won’t find any Latin symbols in almost any part of the region. It’s quite fascinating.

What is Transinistria?

Transinistria is an autonomous region within Moldova. It sees itself as its own independent country separate from Moldova. However, as it more or less seceded without much planning back in the 1990s, it is not recognized by any country in the world for its independence. Not even Russia acknowledges its existence.

In the 1990s, after the collapse of the USSR, Moldova contained a large Russian speaking population among its Romanian majority. The area of Transinistria felt strong ties to its Soviet roots and after Moldova gained independence from the USSR, they decided to secede in hopes of establishing a new social republic that would have strong ties to the Soviet Union.

Transinistria currency

Transinistria has its own currency, the Transinistrian Ruble, which is only used and accepted in the autonomous region. You will need to change cash (EUR, Moldovan Leu, USD etc.) when you arrive as no one accepts credit card (because no payment company sees the Transinistrian Ruble as an actual currency). This also goes for debit cards. You cannot withdraw Transinistrian Rubles at all.

The banks that I did saw dispensed Russian Rubles which you could then use at a exchange shop for Transinistrian Rubles. However, the exchange rate you get for Russian Rubles is terrible.

This part fascinated me as I’ve been to some remote places in the world like the Democratic Republic of Congo with their own currencies but could also use my credit card at larger establishments or my debit card to withdraw cash. The money in Transinistria is literally monopoly money. You can’t even use it when you go back to Moldova. Make sure to spend all your cash or exchange it back to Moldovan Leu or Euros upon exiting!

To make it even more confusing, the exchange rate is  1 PRB (Transinistrian Rubles) to 0.9 Moldovan Leu.  At least keep the exchange rate 1 to 1 to keep it simple!

Getting from Chisinau to Transinistria

Marshrutkas (local buses) to Tiraspol leave continuously from the Central Bus Station and one ticket costs 37MDL. It is a 2-hour journey through beautiful wine and sunflower farms.

Make sure to take your passport as you are going to “another” country after all. If you are driving, make sure your rental company allows you to enter Transinistria. I know a lot of the car rental companies in Moldova won’t allow you to enter the autonomous region due to insurance and the like.

The border crossing is quite basic but you will see the new flag of Transinistria that again, no other country recognizes. The green, red, and yellow of Transinistria stays in this tiny little enclave only.

What to do in Transinistria?

Like Chisinau, there isn’t much to see in the capital city of Tiraspol.

There is a big statue of Lenin in front of the Parliament Building. Across the street is a big monument dedicated to various wars fought in the Soviet Union along with a large tank. Across the street is the main square which has flags dedicated to the other Autonomous regions that love all things Soviet but is also recognized by no one. These are the regions of:

• Abkhazia – within Georgia
• South Ossetia – within Georgia
• Artask – formerly known as Nagorno Karabakh and only accessible from Armenia .

The town is not pretty and former Soviet architecture is on full display. I visited during a sunny day in the summer months. I could imagine this place being a bit depressing in the colder and darker months.

Make sure to also visit the Kvint factory which is the pride and joy of Transinistria. Kvint is the local brandy of the region and can be had for incredibly cheap prices. I’m not a big fan of it but when in Rome right!

Day 4: Cricova Winery tour and Orheiul vechi Monastery

One of the most interesting things I learned about Moldova is about its wine production. I had never really heard of Moldovan wine before visiting but turns out that wine is a big part of the country! In fact, Moldova had such great wine production and land that it accounted for something like a quarter of all wine produced during the Soviet Union.

Nowadays, the wine industry employs a huge chunk of the local population and it is widely exported around the world. Moldova is well known for its red wines and sparkling wine.

Orheiul vechi Monastery

You will need to walk along a small hill to get to the walking path toward the monastery. The views here are quite stunning of the river and the monastery in one view. Visiting the complex is free and won’t take much time at all.

Lunch at the cave restaurant – Epoca de Piatra

I had done no previous research of this restaurant but merely wanted to find something near the Orheiul Vechi Monastery. It turns out, I literally picked the most unique and worthwhile restaurant in all of Moldova.

This restaurant is located inside the mountains like a cave. The entrance to the restaurant is through a big hallway surrounded by rocks with caveman style paintings. Of course, these are not original but they are all for the theme of the restaurant.

Once you enter the restaurant, you’ll be greeted with rustic tables, stone slabs, fire pits, and generally a feeling that you’re dining in a cave. The food here is fantastic but the vibe and atmosphere is just one of the most unique experiences I’ve ever had. Highly recommended if you have a car and can drive out here!

Visiting the Cricova Winery

There are numerous wineries around Chisinau but the  Cricova Winery  is the most famous. It has an underground cellar that spans 100km for actual roads and produces 8 million bottles a year.

The tour itself is quite interesting. It explains the history of the winery and you ride on a little car throughout the underground caverns. It is literally a small town at the Cricova winery. It goes 100m underground and has almost 100km of actual roads that lead from one place to the other.

Cricova is famous for its sparkling wines and is one of the few wineries in the world that makes sparkling wine in the traditional French way. Like visiting Champagne in France , they employ the hand turn method for their sparkling wine which takes an immense effort.

Note that the winery itself is not where the vineyards are. I was hoping for beautiful views of the Moldovan vineyards while sipping on bubbly but that is simply not the case here. The vineyards are far away from the estate itself which is a bummer. There isn’t much of a wine tasting facility either so don’t expect the amazing wine tasting style of South Africa for example.

Other wineries to visit in Moldova are the Asconi Winery, Milestii Mici, and Chateau Purcari among many others.

Moldova Itinerary Day by Day

This is my Moldova itinerary on a day by day basis to summarize everything that I wrote. Again, I didn’t spend much time in the country so this is a short itinerary. I’m sure most people visiting Moldova will just be here to check off the country list but if you have the time to slow travel, then there’s no reason not to spend more time in the country!

Day 1: Arrive in Chisinau, walk around and explore the city Day 2: Full day in Chisinau Day 3:  Full day trip to Transinitria Day 4 : Full day trip to visit the wineries and monasteries Day 5: Depart from Chisinau

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Can I travel to Moldova from the United States?

Most visitors from the United States, regardless of vaccination status, can enter Moldova.

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Fully vaccinated visitors from the United States can enter Moldova without restrictions.

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Latest update

Exercise a high degree of caution in Moldova overall due to the volatile security situation and the impacts of military conflict in neighbouring Ukraine

Higher levels apply in some areas.

Moldova (PDF 216.79 KB)

Europe (PDF 2.62 MB)

Local emergency contacts

Fire and rescue services, medical emergencies.

Call 903 or go to a hospital.

Call 902 or go to the local police station.

Advice levels

Exercise a high degree of caution in Moldova overall.

Do not travel to Transnistria.

Do not travel to Transnistria due to the volatile security situation (a region outside the control of the Moldovan authorities) and  the impacts of Russia's invasion of Ukraine. 

• Exercise a high degree of caution in Moldova due to the volatile security environment and military conflict in neighbouring Ukraine.
• Large political protests can occur in Moldova. Public demonstrations and events can turn violent and attract a heavy police presence. Avoid protests and rallies. Monitor the media for information about protests. 
• Bomb threats have been made against the international airport, shopping centres and other official buildings in the capital, Chisinau. Monitor the media and follow the advice of local authorities.
• Do not travel to Transnistria due to the volatile security situation and the impacts of Russia's invasion of Ukraine. It's a region outside the control of the Moldovan authorities. Explosions were reported in Transnistria in April and May 2022. If you travel to Transnistria despite our advice, our ability to provide consular assistance will be severely limited. 

Full travel advice: Safety

• Tick-borne diseases are a risk. Ticks are active in forested areas from spring to autumn. Check your body for ticks if you travel to forests.
• Waterborne, foodborne and infectious diseases are common. Boil tap water or drink bottled water. Avoid ice cubes, unpasteurised dairy products, and raw or undercooked food.
• Medical facilities and supplies are limited. You'll need to be evacuated if you become seriously ill or injured. Make sure your insurance covers this.

Full travel advice: Health

• Always carry ID documents. If you can't show them when asked, police can detain and fine you.
• It's illegal to drive with a blood alcohol level over 0%. It's also illegal to take photos of military sites, government buildings and other infrastructure.
• Same-sex relationships are legal in Moldova but aren't widely accepted. Avoid public displays of affection.
• Strict regulations cover the export of antiques, artworks and items of historical significance. Get approval from the Moldovan Department of Monuments.

Full travel advice: Local laws

• Entry and exit conditions can change at short notice. Contact an  embassy or consulate of Moldova , or visit the  Moldova Government  website for details. 
• You won't need a visa if you're visiting for up to 90 days in a 6-month period. For longer stays, you'll need a visa. Record your entry date, and check your visa dates carefully. If you overstay, authorities may deport you.
• Land border crossing points with Ukraine and Romania experienced major delays in early 2022. Delays could happen again if fighting increases in Ukraine. 
• If you have arrived in Moldova from Ukraine and need assistance, contact the Consular Emergency Centre on +61 2 6261 3305 (or 1300 555 135 if calling from Australia).

Full travel advice: Travel

Local contacts

• The  Consular Services Charter  tells you what the Australian government can and can't do to help when you're overseas.
• Australia doesn't have an embassy or consulate in Moldova.
• For consular help, contact the  Australian Embassy, Ukraine . Australian Embassy Ukraine officials have relocated temporarily to Poland.
• Follow the Australian Embassy Ukraine social media accounts to stay up to date with local information.

Full travel advice: Local contacts

Full advice

Civil unrest and political tension.

Debris from missiles and drones fired by Russia at targets in neighbouring Ukraine has landed in Moldova on a number of occasions.

Large political protests have occurred in Chisinau and other places in Moldova. Public protests and events that draw large groups of people can turn violent. Local street disturbances can start with little warning. Protests can attract a heavy police presence. You should monitor the media for information on political developments that might affect protest activity in Moldova. 

To stay safe:

• avoid demonstrations, protests and street disturbances
• monitor the news for possible unrest and avoid those places
• obey the local authorities

More information:

• Demonstrations and civil unrest

Pickpocketing, bag snatching and other petty crimes are common, particularly in Chisinau. Criminals target trains and hotel rooms.

Police officers, or people posing as police officers, may ask for bribes, including in tourist areas.

Internet fraud can originate in Moldova, including some dating and marriage  scams .

To reduce the risk of being a target for crime:

• keep your personal belongings close, particularly on trains and in other crowded areas
• be wary of business, dating or marriage proposals from people you've met online
• monitor local media for crime news

If police stop you and ask you to pay a fine:

• ask to see their ID
• offer to go to the nearest police station to pay
• get an official receipt for any payments

Cyber security 

You may be at risk of cyber-based threats during overseas travel to any country. Digital identity theft is a growing concern. Your devices and personal data can be compromised, especially if you’re connecting to Wi-Fi, using or connecting to shared or public computers, or to Bluetooth. 

Social media can also be risky in destinations where there are social or political tensions or laws that may seem unreasonable by Australian standards. Travellers have been arrested for things they have said on social media. Don't comment on local or political events on your social media. 

More information:  

• Cyber security when travelling overseas  

Kidnapping can happen anywhere, anytime, including destinations that are typically at lower risk. The Australian Government's longstanding policy is that it doesn't make payments or concessions to kidnappers. 

More information: 

• Kidnapping  

In mid-2022, several bomb threats were made against the international airport, shopping centres and other official buildings in the capital, Chisinau. Disruptions and delays are likely to occur as authorities respond to any threats – even if threats are hoaxes, Moldovan authorities take time to assess the situation thoroughly. Monitor the media and follow the advice of local authorities.

While there have been no recent terrorist attacks in Moldova, they can still happen.

In recent years, terrorists have staged attacks in European cities.

• look out for possible threats
• avoid possible targets for terrorist attacks
• report anything suspicious to the police
• monitor the media for emerging threats
• take official warnings seriously
• follow the advice of local authorities

If there's an attack, leave the area as soon as it's safe. Avoid the affected area in case of secondary attacks.

Terrorism is a threat worldwide.

Climate and natural disasters

Moldova is in an  earthquake  zone. Register with the  Global Disaster Alert and Coordination System  to receive alerts on major disasters.

Severe weather , including heavy snow and wind, may cause power outages.

If a  natural disaster  happens:

• secure your passport in a safe, waterproof place
• keep in contact with your friends and family
• monitor local media and other sources
• Register with the  Global Disaster Alert and Coordination System  to receive alerts on major disasters.

Travel to Transnistria

Do not travel to Transnistria due to the volatile security situation. Explosions were reported in Transnistria in April and May 2022.

Events in Ukraine have led to political tension in Transnistria. The security situation is volatile and could deteriorate at short notice. 

Transnistria is not under Moldovan government control.

If you're in Transnistria, monitor your personal security plans and leave when it's safe.

If, despite our advice, you choose to travel to Transnistria:

• confirm your travel insurance will cover you
• arrange personal security measures
• make contingency plans
• stay as short a time as possible

Our ability to provide consular assistance is severely limited if you're in Transnistria. 

Travel insurance

Get comprehensive travel insurance before you leave. 

Your policy needs to cover all overseas medical costs, including medical evacuation. The Australian Government won't pay for these costs.

If you can't afford travel insurance, you can't afford to travel. This applies to everyone, no matter how healthy and fit you are.

If you're not insured, you may have to pay thousands of dollars up-front for medical care.

• what activities and care your policy covers
• that your insurance covers you for the whole time you'll be away

Physical and mental health

Consider your physical and mental health before you travel, especially if you have an existing medical condition. 

See your doctor or travel clinic to:

• have a basic health check-up
• ask if your travel plans may affect your health
• plan any vaccinations you need

Do this at least 8 weeks before you leave.

If you have immediate concerns for your welfare or the welfare of another Australian, call the 24-hour Consular Emergency Centre on +61 2 6261 3305 or contact your nearest Australian Embassy, High Commission or Consulate to discuss counselling hotlines and services available in your location.

• General health advice
• Healthy holiday tips  (Healthdirect Australia)

Medications

Not all medication available over the counter or by prescription in Australia are available in other countries. Some may even be considered illegal or a controlled substance, even if prescribed by an Australian doctor.

If you plan to bring medication, check if it's legal in Moldova. Take enough legal medication for your trip.

Carry a copy of your prescription or a letter from your doctor stating:

• what the medication is
• your required dosage
• that it's for personal use

Health risks

Tick-borne encephalitis.

Tick-borne encephalitis  and other tick-borne diseases are a risk, especially in forest areas.

Ticks are common in forested areas from spring to autumn: April to October.

To protect yourself from disease:

• use insect repellent
• wear long, loose-fitting, light-coloured clothing
• check your body for ticks during and after travel in forest areas

Other health risks

Waterborne and foodborne diseases are common.

Other common  infectious diseases  include:

• tuberculosis

Serious outbreaks sometimes occur.

To protect yourself from illness:

• boil tap water or drink bottled water
• avoid ice cubes
• avoid uncooked and undercooked food, such as salads
• avoid unpasteurised dairy products

Get medical advice if you suspect food poisoning or have a fever or diarrhoea.

Medical care

Medical facilities are limited. They often don't have enough medical supplies.

If you become seriously ill or injured, you'll need to evacuate to somewhere with proper care. Medical evacuation can be very expensive.

You're subject to all local laws and penalties, including those that may appear harsh by Australian standards. Research local laws before travelling.

If you're arrested or jailed, the Australian Government will do what it can to help you under our  Consular Services Charter . But we can't get you out of trouble or out of jail.

Moldova has severe penalties for possessing, using or trafficking illegal drugs. These include long sentences in local jails and heavy fines.

• Carrying or using drugs

Exporting goods

Strict regulations cover the export of antiques, artworks and items of historical significance, including modern art and posters, if they're rare or valuable.

If you want to export these items, seek approval from the Moldovan Department of Monuments.

You'll need to provide evidence of approval to export when you leave. You may also need receipts of purchase.

Moldovan customs authorities must process all goods for entry into Ukraine. Businesses based in Transnistria could face difficulties importing or exporting goods if the business isn't registered in Moldova.

You must always carry identity documents. This could be a copy of your passport.

If you can't produce identity documents for police when asked, they can detain and fine you.

It's illegal to:

• drive with a blood alcohol level greater than 0%
• take photos of military sites, government buildings and other infrastructure

Businesses need to register with the State Registration Chamber of the Ministry of Informational Development. It's illegal to operate a business without first registering it. This also applies to businesses in Transnistria.

• Doing business

Australian laws

Some Australian criminal laws still apply when you're overseas. If you break these laws, you may face prosecution in Australia.

Staying within the law and respecting customs

Dual citizenship

Dual citizenship is legally recognised in Moldova.

If you're an Australian citizen but also a citizen of Moldova, our ability to offer you consular services may be limited. You may also be subject to different entry/exit requirements.

Dual nationals

Local customs

Same-sex relationships are legal but aren't widely accepted. Avoid public displays of affection.

Advice for LGBTI travellers

Visas and border measures

Every country or territory decides who can enter or leave through its borders. For specific information about the evidence you'll need to enter a foreign destination, check with the nearest embassy, consulate or immigration department of the destination you're entering. 

If you're visiting for up to 90 days within a 6-month period, you won't need a visa.

For longer stays, you'll need a visa.

Entry and exit conditions can change at short notice. Contact an  embassy or consulate of Moldova , or visit the  Moldova Government  website for details. They'll tell you about visas, currency, customs and quarantine rules.

Record your entry date, and check your visa dates carefully where applicable. If you overstay your visa, authorities may deport you.

Entry to Moldova

You need to register at your port of entry.

Passport control authorities at border crossings automatically register your entry unless you're entering through Transnistria.

Travel through Transnistria

Do not enter or exit Moldova through Transnistria.

Several checkpoints exist along the routes into and out of Transnistria. These are not official border or immigration control points.

If you enter through Transnistria, your passport will not show a valid entry stamp. This may create problems when you try to leave the country.

Some countries won't let you enter unless your passport is valid for 6 months after you plan to leave that country. This can apply even if you're just transiting or stopping over.

Some foreign governments and airlines apply the rule inconsistently. Travellers can receive conflicting advice from different sources.

You can end up stranded if your passport is not valid for more than 6 months.

The Australian Government does not set these rules. Check your passport's expiry date before you travel. If you're not sure it'll be valid for long enough, consider getting  a new passport .

Lost or stolen passport

Your passport is a valuable document. It's attractive to people who may try to use your identity to commit crimes.

Some people may try to trick you into giving them your passport. Always keep it in a safe place.

If your passport is lost or stolen, tell the Australian Government as soon as possible:

• In Australia, contact the  Australian Passport Information Service .
• If you're overseas, contact the nearest  Australian embassy or consulate .

Passport with 'X' gender identifier

Although Australian passports comply with international standards for sex and gender, we can't guarantee that a passport showing 'X' in the sex field will be accepted for entry or transit by another country. Contact the nearest  embassy, high commission or consulate of your destination  before you arrive at the border to confirm if authorities will accept passports with 'X' gender markers. 

• LGBTI travellers  

The local currency is the Moldova Leu (MDL).

You can easily change euros and US dollars for MDL at banks and licensed money changers. You can rarely exchange Australian dollars.

Although parts of Moldova have a largely cash-based economy, major hotels – especially in Chisinau – widely accept traveller's cheques and credit cards.

Some major hotels accept traveller's cheques and credit cards.

Always keep your credit card in sight. Fraud is a risk.

You'll find very few ATMs outside the capital. Take care at ATMs. People have reported unauthorised withdrawals after using electronic banking in Moldova.

Use ATMs in controlled areas like banks, shops and shopping centres.

Local travel

Pressure on border controls in Europe has increased due to the mass movement of asylum seekers.

Always carry your passport when you cross borders.

Monitor local media and ask transport providers for up-to-date information on border conditions.

Driving permit

You'll need an International Driving Permit (IDP) to drive in Moldova.

Get your IDP before you leave Australia.

Road travel

Roads are poorly maintained, and street lighting is rare.

Driving is hazardous because of pedestrians, farm vehicles and wandering livestock.

If you intend to drive in Moldova:

• find out about local road rules
• avoid driving at night
• Driving or riding

Motorcycles

Check with your travel insurer whether your policy covers you when riding a motorbike.

Always wear a helmet.

Use only official taxis and limousines. Book these through your hotel.

Unofficial taxis may overcharge. They may also not comply with safety standards.

Taxis that look official can still be unlicensed.

Don't share a taxi with strangers.

Public transport

Buses connecting Chisinau with other major cities are frequent.

Standards aren't the same as in Australia. Minibus accidents are common. Many buses are old and overcrowded.

• Transport and getting around safely

DFAT doesn't provide information on the safety of individual commercial airlines or flight paths.

Check  Moldova's air safety profile  with the Aviation Safety Network.

Emergencies

Depending on what you need, contact your:

• family and friends
• travel agent
• insurance provider

Always get a police report when you report a crime.

Your insurer should have a 24-hour emergency number.

Consular contacts

Read the Consular Services Charter for what the Australian Government can and can't do to help you overseas.

If you've arrived in Moldova from Ukraine and need assistance, contact the Consular Emergency Centre on 1300 555 135 in Australia or +61 2 6261 3305 outside Australia.

Australian Embassy Ukraine (temporarily relocated to Poland)

Email:  [email protected] For consular assistance:  [email protected] Website:  ukraine.embassy.gov.au Facebook:  Australian Embassy, Ukraine X:  @AUinUA

24-hour Consular Emergency Centre

In a consular emergency, if you can’t contact an embassy, call the 24-hour Consular Emergency Centre on:

• +61 2 6261 3305 from overseas
• 1300 555 135 in Australia

Travelling to Moldova?

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Ukraine war latest: Moscow 'very likely' behind GPS disruptions; Russian personnel 'killed or injured' in Ukrainian strikes

Ukraine conducted "coordinated strikes" on a military airbase inside Russia overnight, a Ukrainian military source has told Sky News. The operation, which took place early this morning, included attacks against Russian SU-34 fighter-bombers.

Saturday 6 April 2024 15:30, UK

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• Ukraine conducts 'coordinated strikes' on military airbase inside Russia, source tells Sky News 
• As many as 20 airfield personnel 'killed or injured' | 'Six Russian warplanes destroyed'
• Explained: What is the Morozovsk airfield?
• Russia 'very likely responsible' for Baltic GPS disruptions, Germany says
• Kyiv denies Russian forces have reached eastern town | Moscow claims control of another village
• Explained: How the war has strayed outside Ukraine's borders
• Big picture : What's happening with war?

We've not been able to bring you live updates on the war in Ukraine today, so here is what has been happening. 

Eight people have been killed in two Russian strikes on the northeastern Ukrainian city of Kharkiv, local authorities say. 

The strikes took place early this morning and in the afternoon. 

Ukraine's national police said the attack was launched by drones, but local officials said missiles and bombs were used. 

"As of this morning, there are 6 dead and 10 wounded as a result of the night strike on Shevchenkivskyi district," Kharkiv mayor Ihor Terekhov said on Telegram. 

At least nine high-rise buildings were struck, along with administrative buildings, a shop, a petrol station, and a service station. 

Here are more updates from today: 

• Tajikistan has rejected a Russian claim that Ukraine's embassy in the Tajik capital is recruiting mercenaries to fight against Russia
• A kamikaze drone hit a military facility used by pro-Russian separatists in Moldova's breakaway region of Transnistria 
• The Ukrainian army's commander-in-chief said his forces are still in control of the town of Chasiv Yar despite attempts by Russian forces to break through their defences. 

That's it for our coverage for today, but before we go - let's recap the day's key happenings. 

Airbase strikes

By far the biggest story of the day is regarding overnight Ukrainian strikes on an airfield inside Russia - news we broke exclusively here at Sky News via our  Ukraine producer  Artem Lysak and  security and defence editor  Deborah Haynes.

Ukrainian sources have since indicated that as many as 20 Russian service personnel were killed or wounded in the attack on Morozovsk airfield in Rostov. 

Up to eight aircraft were damaged, while as many as six were destroyed completely, Ukrainian sources claimed.

The airbase has been the staging post for Russian bombings on the frontline since the beginning of the full-scale invasion in 2022.

It is home to the 559th Bomber Aviation Regiment within the 1st Guards Composite Aviation Division.

This unit has three squadrons of SU-34s which are regularly used to bomb Ukrainian forces on the frontline.

Claim that nuclear plant targeted again

Russia has once again claimed that Ukraine has tried to attack the Zaporizhzhia nuclear power plant. 

Critical infrastructure was not thought to have been damaged despite the drone attack, state media quoted the plant's Moscow-installed management as saying. 

Both Ukraine and Russia have accused the other of trying to create a nuclear disaster by attacking the plant - which has been under Moscow's control since the early days of the war.

Separately - and not thought to be linked to the war in Ukraine - authorities in the far eastern Russian city of Khabarovsk have declared an emergency after radiation was detected in the area.

No one has been injured or exposed to radiation and there is no risk to public health, TASS quoted the local branch of Russia's consumer safety watchdog as saying.

Russian advances? 

Russia reported advances in two areas of Donetsk. 

The defence ministry said Russian troops had reached the suburbs of the town of Chasiv Yar - which was denied by Ukraine. 

Kyiv did note fighting in the area, however. 

Additionally and without providing details or evidence, the ministry said troops had also captured the village of Vodyane, which is just northwest of Donetsk city and slightly southwest of Avdiivka. 

Ukraine is yet to respond to the claims regarding Vodyane.

Lord Cameron will travel to the US next week where he will urge politicians to approve a package of military aid for Ukraine.

The foreign secretary said he would meet with Republican House Speaker Mike Johnson to urge him to pass the bill - which he has held up for months. 

"Britain has put forward its money for Ukraine this year, so has the European Union. America needs to do it," he said on X. 

"Speaker Johnson can make it happen in Congress. I am going to go see him next week and say we need that money, Ukraine needs that money."

The bill, worth some $95bn (£75bn), was approved by the Democrat-led Senate on 13 February, but has faced stiff opposition in the Republican-controlled House of Representatives.

Both houses of Congress must approve the bill before President Biden can sign it into law. 

Some $60bn (£47bn) of the package is allocated for military aid for Ukraine alone. 

However, former president Donald Trump and his Republican allies in Congress want funding directed toward domestic issues such as border control, rather than on foreign wars. 

Several Russian personnel have been expelled from the NATO headquarters, secretary-general Jens Stoltenberg has said. 

It is not clear when the expulsions took place. 

"We realised that they were carrying out activities that were not actually diplomatic work, but intelligence work," Mr Stoltenberg told Bild . 

He did not say how many had been expelled, nor offer any detail as to what intelligence they had gathered while at the NATO headquarters, which is located in Brussels. 

A Moscow court has placed an 11th suspect in last month's concert hall attack in pre-trial detention, Russian officials have said.

The suspect, Muhammad Zoir Sharipzoda, a Tajik national, is accused of committing a terrorist act, the court said.

At least 144 people were killed when the so-called IS-K targeted the venue - which is just outside Moscow - at the end of last month.

This morning, Russia's investigative committee claimed it had recovered images from the phone of one of the shooters, which it said may indicate a connection between the Ukraine war and the attack (see 8.29am post). 

Ukraine has strenuously denied any involvement after repeated Russian accusations, including from Vladimir Putin, that Kyiv was involved or aware of the attack in some capacity. 

The West has similarly dismissed suggestions Kyiv was involved and several leaders have accused Russia of using the attack as an excuse to expand its operations in Ukraine. 

At least two people have died and six have been injured by a Russian attack in Zaporizhzhia, the head of Ukraine's military administration for the region has said. 

A nine-year-old boy was among the injured, while the dead are a man and a woman of unspecified age, Ivan Fedorov said on Telegram.

The boy's mother, 36, was also injured, alongside young men in their 20s and a man and woman in their 50s.

Mr Fedorov did not say how the attack was carried out, and Russia has not commented on the claims. 

He shared this unverified image of the damage purportedly caused by the attack, but offered no details as to what the building was. 

As we reported in our 2.50pm post, Russia has claimed today that Ukraine has been trying to hit the nuclear power plant in Zaporizhzhia with drones. 

As we've been reporting throughout today, Ukraine launched a coordinated drone attack on an airbase inside Russian territory overnight. 

Ukrainian sources have indicated that as many as 20 Russian service personnel were killed or wounded in the attack on Morozovsk airfield in Rostov. 

This footage shows the attack...

In the latest in a string of accusations of a similar nature, Russia has again claimed that Ukraine has tried to attack the Zaporizhzhia nuclear power plant. 

"The Ukrainian armed forces hit the territory of the Zaporizhzhia nuclear power plant with several UAVs (drones)," Russian state media outlet TASS cites the station's Moscow-installed management as saying. 

However, critical infrastructure is not thought to have been damaged, it added. 

Ukraine has not responded to the latest accusations from Moscow - which are unverified.  

Russia is "very likely" to have been behind a series of disturbances affecting GPS navigation in the Baltic region, the German defence ministry has claimed. 

The ministry pointed to the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad as a source of the problem.

"The persistent disruptions to the global navigation satellite system are very likely of Russian origin and are based on disruptions in the electromagnetic spectrum, including those originating in the Kaliningrad Oblast," a spokesperson said.

However, the spokesperson did not offer any details as to how Berlin came to its conclusions and the Russian embassy in the country has not responded to a request for comment. 

Similarly last month, a government source said that Russia was believed to have jammed the satellite signal on an aircraft used by UK Defence Secretary Grant Shapps when it flew close to Kaliningrad.

Kaliningrad is a Russian territory wedged between Lithuania and Poland on the coast of the Baltic Sea.

These images show Russian troops fighting in unspecified locations on the frontlines of Moscow's war on Ukraine.

The Russian Ministry of Defence has reported steady advances in recent weeks, including today when it said troops had reached the suburbs of one town (see 9.25am post) and to have captured a village (see previous post). 

Ukraine has complained of "difficult" battlefield conditions with ammunition remaining scant, but has rejected many Russian claims about advances or settlement captures. 

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Gastronomy: Explore Moldovan Food

When the world’s great chefs say local, healthy and tasty are the food trends they’re embracing these days, it feels as if they are talking about Moldovan food and why our cuisine is a highlight of a visit to Moldova. Yes, Moldova has long been ahead of this curve by having always embraced locally produced and fresh, where farm to table is the norm in the countryside. This is not only thanks to our rich black soil that produces great vegetables, fruit, nuts and seeds, mostly organic and without any pesticides, but also because it’s part of our long agricultural heritage focused on natural and pure ingredients. 

Moldovan food and our traditional dishes are very much connected to Moldovan culture and hospitality. We embrace the culinary traditions that our grandparents and great-grandparents passed on to us to create simple, but scrumptious, meals filled with traditional Moldovan dishes like placinte , sarmale, zeama or mamaliga. Combine these hearty dishes with Moldovan vegetables and fruit that you know are special and fresh when you taste them and the flavor explodes in your mouth. And, of course, Moldovan food is perfectly paired with Moldovan wine.

If you travel to Moldova in the summer we promise you the freshest cherries you’ll ever taste, as well as strawberries, blackberries and blueberries that will melt in your mouth. You can get these great fruits, as well as sour cherries, grapes, watermelons, muskmelons, peaches, plums, almonds and walnuts, in local markets and from mom-and-pop street vendors between May and October. Many locals and travelers munch on this fresh fruit as the perfect summer snack.

And in the winter, you’ll still be able to taste some of this summer freshness thanks to the Moldovan tradition of canning vegetables and fruit, like our famous watermelon pickles. A visit to a Moldovan food cellar is a sight to behold with shelves filled to the ceiling with colorful jars full of canned locally grown food. If you spend any time in Moldova you will often receive gifts from local friends’ gardens, orchards or food cellars.

For Moldovans, there is nothing better in springtime than a piece of homemade bread, with a slice of sheep’s cheese and a scallion’s tail. In the summer, we love a salad of ox-heart tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, dill pickles and homemade cream. In the fall, a pot full of vegetables, with garlic and a slice of cow’s cheese is the perfect meal. And in winter, we adore placinte (a small stuffed pie) with cheese, potato dumplings and pickled vegetables from the cellar.

Moldovans often express themselves and their hospitality through their food. One of the best ways to experience Moldovan cuisine and culture is by spending time in the Moldovan countryside and enjoying a home-cooked Moldovan traditional dishes with local wine at a family guesthouse or country B&B. For the ultimate Moldovan food experience you can take a culinary tour of Moldova (check out our list of recommended local tour companies ) or organize a food tour with a qualified Moldovan tour guide .

This Moldovan food guide will introduce you to Moldovan cuisine and our favorite traditional dishes so that you know what to look for and order when you visit Moldova. As many travelers visit Chisinau , we also share details on traditional restaurants in Chisinau serving Moldovan food, as well as the best restaurants in Chisinau serving international cuisines and the best cafes for both quality coffee and pastries. And finally, details on festivals and events around the country related to Moldovan food and gastronomy.

• Flagship dishes
• Restaurants
• Pastry and coffee
• Festivals and events

Flagship moldovan Dishes

Sarmale are sauerkraut or vine leaves filled with rice, vegetables and meat..

Unlike those served in Turkey and Greece, our sarmale are served hot, with sour cream and pickles.

Usually, sarmale is cooked in a clay pot.

You will find it at every Moldovan feast. No Moldovan wedding is complete without sarmale. Depending on the region, sarmale have different shapes, fillings and cooking techniques. Sarmale with kernels of corn is especially tasty.

Plăcintă (Stuffed Pies)

Moldovans take immense pride in their plăcintă or stuffed pies, some of which contain stick-to-your-ribs fillings like meat and potatoes and some of which are sweet. Whichever you choose, we guarantee that our pies will be so tasty that you’ll lick your fingers when you’re finished. Like sarmale, pies are a mainstay of festive occasions. There are dozens of kinds, with local traditions often dictating which will be served. Salty pies include those filled with cow’s cheese, cabbage, potatoes, and greens. Sweet ones contain such fruits or vegetables as apples, sour cherries, plums or pumpkin — or a soft, fudge-like candy called halva. Every Moldovan makes pies differently. Some use butter, others oil, pork fat or yeast. The crusts can be puff-type pastry or leavened. And they can be round, half-moon-shaped, spiral — or turnovers.

Zeama, or soup, means a lot of things to Moldovans — sustenance, healing, tradition and celebration, all in the same dish. We serve it before we serve anything else at a meal. Its basic ingredients are typically chicken, homemade noodles, and a plant known as lovage. Almost all restaurants and pubs offer zeama. One tradition is to serve it hot, with cream and chili peppers, at noon the day after a wedding. See recipe

Italians have ravioli and the Poles pierogi. Moldovans’ traditional pasta is called coltunasi, or vareniks. It’s big — each piece about a third the size of a person’s palm. We fill the shells with cheese, cabbage, potatoes, roasted onions, or sour cherries.

It wouldn’t be complete without cream and a glass of wine.

Mamaliga is a corn dish with the consistency of boiled rice that you will find at day-to-day Moldovan meals and celebrations alike.

The simple, peasant-style concoction is cooked until it is so thick that you can cut it with a fork. It is usually served with mujdei — or garlic sauce, sheep’s cheese, pickles, a meat stew, fried fish, scrambled eggs, or a mushroom stew known as ciulama. See recipe

Watermelon pickles

One of the delights of coming to Moldova in winter is finding a wide array of pickled products in open-air markets and on grocery shelves — from the mundane to the exotic. In addition to the traditional sauerkraut, cucumbers and tomatoes, Moldovans love pickled apples and watermelon. Without them, no winter table would be complete.

Traditional desserts

If you have a sweet tooth, you will love traditional Moldovan desserts. One of the yummiest is Cusma lui Guguta cake, which translates into English as sour cherry crepe cake.

Another is Mușuroi, o­r mole burrow cake. Other treats include plums stuffed with walnuts and whipped cream, baked apples filled with jam and nuts, apple, cherry and pumpkin pies, cheese and raisin pancakes, and croissants with jam. Two desserts we adopted after Soviet times are Napoleon cake and Smetannik — or sour cream —  cake. A note that will be comforting to those who want something sweet while still trying to be health-conscious: Moldovans use natural — not refined — products in their desserts.

Locally produced Moldovan drinks — both alcoholic and non-alcoholic — contain natural ingredients, in keeping with longstanding tradition. One you can cool off with in summer is socata, made of elderflowers. Another is the fermented fruit drink kvas. In addition to wine, Moldovan families make tuica — plum or apricot brandy — and visinata, or sherry.

Traditional Restaurants

Here are some places where you can fully enjoy a wide variety of traditional Moldovan food.

Vatra Neamului

• +373 22 226 839
• www.facebook.com/vatraneamului.md/

The restaurant invites you to taste royal food and drinks in a historical ambiance. The menu includes specialties inspired by several cultures: Romanian, Turkish, Russian, along with other culinary art works taken from the cuisine of the countries that had contacts with the Romanians. “Vatra Neamului” restaurant invites you to sit at an old table, full of memories, to eat using local royal cutlery, characteristic of the old age, and to delight your senses with the exceptional traditional cuisine!

La Placinte

• +373 22265442
• laplacinte.md/

If you languish for tasty pies, then go to “La Plăcinte “, where you can find the largest variety of pies in the city. But their menu is not limited to delicious pastries, it includes the whole range of traditional food. We recommend that you do not miss the famous dessert of the restaurant – sour cherry pancakes, which are, in fact, the taste of the Moldovans’ childhood. Are you wondering what our childhood tastes like?

La Sezatoare

• +373 68677776
• facebook.com/restaurant.lasezatoare

„La Șezătoare” restaurant invites you to spend time in the company of authentic food and music. Its menu offers you a large range of traditional food, starting with sarmale (dolmas) and ending with homemade noodles. By the way, have you heard about șezătoarea (sitting), another element inherited by our people from the ancestors? This secular tradition implies spending time with peers, talking about what’s new and doing not too hard work, such as knitting, crocheting or even embroidery.

Due to „La Taifas” restaurant, you will keep long-lasting memories of the Moldovan culinary traditions. At the entrance, father Nicolai awaits you with a glass of wine and, before leaving, you will necessarily have one for the road, what the Moldovans call the “stirrup cup” – meaning that you will have a glass of wine on the house, so that you can take some of the warmness of this place with you. At “La Taifas”, you can spend a beautiful evening in its big room and have a good Moldovan wine, while watching how the bread is being baked in the wood oven.

Popasul Dacilor

• popasuldacilor.md/

„Popasul Dacilor” restaurant was born out of the hosts’s love for history and nation. Built from river stone, with a facade made of stone from Ţâpova, the restaurant always succeeded to combine what is beautiful, pleasant and healthy. “Popasul Dacilor” seems to be detached from the daily reality. The authentic atmosphere of the place makes you want to feast on royal dishes. From the house specialty, “Popasul Dacilor” platter, to the duck stuffed with dolmas, from rib soup to the Moldavian tochitura (a kind of stew), from peasant toba (stuffed pork hog maw) to homemade pie – all of them can be tasted here, being cooked with a special care and love.

Acasa la mama

• +373 79045050
• facebook.com/restaurantacasalamama/

Do you enjoy being home to mom? The Moldovans are spiritually connected to the house in which they grew up, so they worship the place where mother is. If you want to experience what it’s like to be received at a Moldovan mother’s house, then go to the restaurant “Acasă la mama” (“Home to Mom”). Here you have the chance to eat the tastiest homemade chicken soup served with flatbread and chili pepper. And, no doubts, if you taste the mămăliga (polenta) with fish and garlic sauce, you will not remain indifferent to our cuisine culture.

Crîcimă Gagauz

• +373 686 62 288
• www.facebook.com/gagauzrestaurant/

One of the few restaurants in Chisinau offering its guests the opportunity to live the Gagauzian cuisine experience. The restaurant’s recipes are deeply rooted in the tradition of this community, which is so interesting from a cultural perspective. Sheep meat, homemade wine and sheep cheese are the three pillars of the Gagauzian culinary tradition. That is why, when you visit this place, you must try two of the house specialties: kavurma and gozleme associated with wine. You will not regret it!

• +373 68707071
• www.facebook.com/lacrismarestaurant

A real atmosphere of ancient Moldova awaits you at the restaurant “La Crîșmă”. Traditional wooden furniture, carpets with double fabric and Moldavian ceramics make the atmosphere close to the place special. Skilled chefs offer a variety of traditional dishes: juice and soup, grilled meat delicacies, and of course, assorted pies and polenta, all prepared according to the old Moldovan technology. The restaurant has a real wood oven, thanks to which you can feel the aroma of freshly baked bread.

Roata Vremii

• +373 22664489
• www.facebook.com/roatavremii

The Restaurant-Museum “Roata Vremii” is an oasis of Moldovan history and culture. The multitude of traditional elements present here offers a feeling of time travel, in the times when people ate healthy, a lot and well. Each room of the restaurant reflects important milestones or moments in the history of Moldova. The hosts also provide a culinary exhibition with traditional Moldovan dishes and lots of wines from the Moldovan collection.

Restaurants International cuisine

Here are some restaurants with a wide variety of dishes specific to different countries of the world.

• +373 222 21 362
• elipili.md/

Pleasant atmosphere, stylish setting, exclusive background music, selected drinks and absolutely delicious food: all this is about Eli Pili – a suitable location for a romantic dinner or a warm meeting with friends. The menu offers a variety of traditional and European dishes in generous portions, served with great originality. Remember to pair your food with the right drink: beer, wine or spirits. The restaurant is open 24/7 and is suitable for any occasion. Check it out!

• +373 22 890 076
• loftchisinau.com/

Loft invites you to travel together through the refined world of European cuisine, where you will definitely want to return. Comfortable premises in the center of Chisinau, select menu and people who know their trade have combined in this special place, and for your comfort, the restaurant has organized several areas: lounge, chill out, large non-smoking room and VIP room, where you you can enjoy absolute privacy.

Buffalo Steak House

• +373 798 86 677
• www.buffalosteakhouse.md/

Coziness, harmony, refinement and quiet music are the typical attributes of the Buffalo Steak House. Juicy and appetizing steaks are served along with homemade bread, baked in the oven, and paired with high-quality wines. Apart from the quite varied menu, Buffalo Steak House also offers the Steak Shop option – a rich assortment of premium quality meat dishes ready to be fried. In other words – if you value your time and love good food – Buffalo Steak House is a must visit. We believe you will not regret it!

London’s Steak House

• +373 782 00 600
• www.facebook.com/Londonssteaks/

At London’s Steak House, the most juicy and tasty steaks of pork, beef, chicken and even salmon are prepared. The interior of the restaurant will give you the impression of an English pub, perfect for going out with friends or a dinner with family. Do not hesitate to order one of the house specialties associated with a red wine or beer. And if you run out of time – call the place in advance and come to the table!

• +373 694 46 444
• www.osho.md/

The restaurant’s founders intended to create a special environment in ultramodern style. This is a very cozy place, winning its guests by the diversity of the rest zones, and the kitchen staff is ready to take you to an unforgettable culinary adventure.

• +373 609 02 000
• madamwong.md/

Madam Wong is a contemporary Chinese cuisine restaurant, coming to us from Hongkong. The restaurant combines several gastronomic traditions of the South-East Asian region and invites you to enjoy its refined dishes, live music and luxurious atmosphere. When you visit Madam Wong, remember to try the Miso soup with seafood and the Dorado fish fillet with Teriyaki sauce. And for dessert, we recommend you the notable Asian Cherry, a dessert with an Oriental accent, created by pastry chef Tatiana Drobot.

Despite its name, QBAR is a full-fledged restaurant, with a focus on quality wines and delicious food. The wine list contains Chilean, Latino-American, French, Italian and even North-American wines. The restaurant menu is modest, consisting mainly of aperitives. Nevertheless, guests will find here an absolutely delicious beef tartare and a creamy cheese soup, while vegetarians will enjoy a creamy broccoli soup and vegan burgers. Don’t forget to order cheesecake for dessert. A good wine and food matching will offer you an outstanding gastronomic experience!

• +373 788 00 600
• www.pegasrestaurant.md/

The history of the Pegas Restaurant started about two decades ago. Initially, there were three tables for clients and it was known as the place making the best sausages in town. The small grill-bar shortly evolved into a luxury venue, where guests can spend their evening in a friendly and pleasant environment. The restaurant’s kitchen serves excellent meat dishes, as well as European fusion food. This is, without doubt, a place open and available for guests: they are no longer surprised by the large portions the restaurant serves, as they already know this is the perfect place to enjoy attention, comfort and delicious food. Besides, any dish from the menu can be prepared in your favorable way. The Pegas Restaurant is open 24/7. It is not a big deal in terms of costs. But it is worth visiting. 

• +373 791 07 107
• saperavi.md/

Georgians are known all over the world for being the “parents” of wine, as well as for their varied, and especially spicy, gastronomic culture. The Georgian cuisine at Saperavi’s will simply charm you; therefore, we highly recommend to stop by while in Chișinău. We suggest you to try Salmon in walnut sauce Bazhe , Kuchmanchi and, of course, Khinkali with pork or beef. And for dessert, don’t forget the apricot, peach or cheese cake. All these delicious treats will be enjoyed in a truly soulful environment. Immerse yourself in the amazing experience of being a guest of the Georgians!

Jack’s Bar&Grill

• +373 789 94 444
• www.facebook.com/Jacks-BarGrill-258543044268519/

Located in downtown Chisinau, the venue is bragging about the food it offers to real men: large portions, natural products and plenty of meat! Its celebrities are the steaks prepared with great care, passed through six levels of frying and presented to consumers in the most irresistible associations. You must be wondering who is cooking the most masculine food in the city, at Jack’s Bar&Grill? A young lady, of course. Come and enjoy the gastronomic delights created by Olga Curarari. 

Black Rabbit

• +373 78 333-322
• blackrabbit.md/

Black Rabbit gastro-burrow is a cafe, a restaurant or a bar, depending on the time of day when you visit it. Every weekday, the cafe opens at 7.30 am, offering classic and original breakfasts, then it continues working as a restaurant with delicious lunch offers, and at the end of the day, Black Rabbit runs into a place for a quiet and cozy dinner, as well as for a pre-party at the bar.

Mojito Terrace

• +373 601 91 111
• www.facebook.com/Restaurant.Mojito/

Discover the European gastronomic world, or the sushi world at Mojito Bar. The hosts have prepared for their guests an absolutely challenging menu, perfectly complemented by the wine list. Also, the hosts promise you that your experience as their guest will motivate you to come over again.

• +373 222 40 127
• www.facebook.com/panipit.md/

What about spending a quiet evening, in a purely French atmosphere? The PaniPit Restaurant is the perfect location for this. Coffee flavor beautifully intertwines with the “à la Provence” design, creating a perfect environment for warm and sincere talks. And our rich and diverse experience enables us to assure you that our house specialties will teleport you from the heart of Chisinau right to the heart of Paris. And what could be more fantastic than the experience of being simultaneously present in two historical capitals?

• +373 68023330
• www.facebook.com/caferozmarin/

Rozmarin, a restaurant that provides authentic urban cuisine, inspired by Mediterranean, Asian and Mexican flavors. Rozmarin is one of the few local restaurants in Chisinau that has a rich vegan menu, which you must try! The chef, Emil Bojescu makes a phenomenal gazpacho, and delicious spinach ravioli. If you want something lighter, try the falafel with vegetables. Save room for dessert, ask for something homemade by Marina Luca, the Bessarabian pastry chef.

The York Pub

• +373 792 00 208
• www.facebook.com/theyorkpub/

If you love going out with friends in the city, you prefer noisy companies and good drink, then “York Pub” is the perfect place for you. The pleasant and positive interior creates a favorable atmosphere for communication. Moreover, every weekend, inside the pub, bands of artists with live songs perform.

Pastry and Coffee

Serve an aromatic coffee with appetizing delicacies created by the artisans of taste in the cafes of Chisinau

Creme de la Creme

• +373) 22 222 011
• www.facebook.com/cremedelacreme.md/

Crème de la Crème is an ideal place for a cozy brunch, family lunch or a pleasant dinner. The restaurant owners furnished the ground floor area in an authentic Parisian style, and the main part of the restaurant gives the guests a sense of traveling to Provence. In addition to French croissants and Viennese coffee, Crème de la Crème proposes to the guests an eclectic European menu at an affordable price.

Delice d’Ange

• (+373) 78 888 440
• www.facebook.com/cafe.delicedange

The French confectionery Delice d’Ange was opened in September 2003 and it has conquered the hearts of all citizens since the very first days of its existence. Here you can find a wide selection of the most sophisticated delicacies: appetizing croissants and rolls, unique almond macaroons, exclusive ice cream, cakes and pies with a wide range of fillings and creams and, most importantly, very much chocolate!

Tucano Coffee

• (+373) 0687 17 073
• www.facebook.com/tucanocoffeemoldova/

The motto of this coffee shop was inspired by the epoch when rock-and-roll and the subculture of the hippies appeared, an epoch renowned for its philosophy and the desire of people to return to natural purity through love, pacifism and free thinking. To develop and popularize a culture of true, high-quality, freshly roasted coffee, they decided to work with 100% Arabica from the best regions and plantations of the world. A place with a pleasant energy was chosen in the centre of the old city and the doors of the first Tucano coffee shop opened early in November 2011. The Tucano Coffee team is still creating a new coffee shop model – a coffee house as a creative space.

DC Donuts & Coffee

• (+373) 69 423 423
• www.facebook.com/dcmoldova/

If you are looking for a place where you could enjoy good coffee and delicious craft donuts, then go to DC Donuts & Coffee. Here you will get an invigorating and tasty dose of joy that will allow you start your day as pleasantly as possible!

• (+373) 68 193 131
• www.facebook.com/PatisserieCaramel

Caramel confectionary is a fairy tale transposed into real life. The French charm which distinguishes this confectionary from other can be felt in everything: in the sophisticated range of shades, in the warm colours, in the dried flowers in small vases, in the cute curtains and painted plates. In this small charming place decorated in a Provence style, each guest will feel as comfortable as at home.

Panna Cotta

• (+373) 22 200 515
• www.facebook.com/pannacotta.md/

Panna Cotta cafe is located in the centre of Chisinau, near the Cathedral. As soon as you cross its threshold, you will forget about all daily worries. They use only natural, absolutely eco-friendly raw products here. The bright space with light creamy walls and with a modern design, the comfortable sofas and the original dishes will immerse you into a world full of tastes and aromas, and the atmosphere will delight you with its elegance and sophistication.

Festivals ON GASTRONOMIC THEMATICS

Private: May Day

first picnic of spring

Private: Mai dulce

a festival dedicated to traditional Moldovan sweets

Private: Bostaniada

ethno-gastronomic festival

Private: Cucuteni

Cucuteni festival of ancient culture and art