ford excursion interior lights won't turn off

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Interior light issue (Doesn't go off)

By Enlightx, November 28, 2017 in Ford Focus Club

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can any one help with working out why if i have my courtesy light in the central position the lights NEVER goes off... even when the car is double locked and 10 mins later

if i close the door doesnt go off, all door sensors seem okay as if i open a door i get the door open message on the dash for each door and the boot.

i have messed around and once it started working. off then open the door and on then off i powered on and off car and wasn't working again.

Car is a focus 2010 MK2.5 

any ideas or tests i can do would be a great help. stupidly iv known about this for 6 months and only remembered now its got dark.

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Not that im an expert but a couple of things come to mind

firstly  check the Switch if possible and clean the contacts as it could just be a bit of dirt stopping it or a poor connection

secondly   try changing the bulb  it may have malfunctioned  

Defo the switch ever since I pulled mines off wrong the plastic came away instead of the full unit and messed with the switch and mines won't go off only when switch on off position have fiddled with the copper type prongs but cant get right ford make things weird lol

well just had a thought that i can change the back for the front and try it that way. did the same though so i got a multi meter and tested the plugs 12V on each plug meaning its not the switches. check both switches and they both test okay.

give up and reassemble all and now its working. but it has done this before when i asked the previous owner he said yeah sometimes it gets confused and you have to mess about closing and opening the door to correct it.

has anyone else heard of this??

I made a bit of a pig's ear of changing the bulb in my car's interior lamp, and it wouldn't go off. I must have taken the lamp unit apart about 8 times and put it back together before it would behave. Not a well designed thing.

so drove it home last night 5 mins into driving, both courtesy lights came back on while i was driving.

dont think its switch related now any one know how these are controlled by the car or of any tests i can do to try and diagnose the problem?

Do the Footwell lights come on too?

dont think i have footwell lights if i do they dont come on :) but dont think i have them 

its a 2010 focus zetec s Mk2.5 stop start

from what i understand looking at it the courtesy lights are not run by the gem unit as the switchs are hard mechnical lights. you have 1 ground and 2 12 V then the switch seems to go 12v to gound , 12v(controlled by something) to ground, ground to ground.

im thinking its some sort of computer controlled thing or a sensor somewere but all the door sensors and boot sensors seem okay as if i open them i get door open on the dash.

something to add. if i have the lights in central position. even if i get out of the car. double lock wait 10 mins lights are still on

You do have them they just didn't come with bulbs if you look under there to the far left drivers side and far right passenger side you will see the connectors for w5w wedge bulbs if u have a spare plug it in and see if that stays on too then it may be door switch related 

25 minutes ago, F0CUE said: You do have them they just didn't come with bulbs if you look under there to the far left drivers side and far right passenger side you will see the connectors for w5w wedge bulbs if u have a spare plug it in and see if that stays on too then it may be door switch related 

I don't have them in my car. I have the hole, but no harness. The light on the middle setting is controlled by the GEM, and will gradually dim the lights til they're off.

The lights will dim and go off if you turn the ignition to II with all doors shut - does it do this? If you can test both 12V supplies whilst you do this it may help.

You can also see if there is a door sensor fault, turn your ignition off and take your keys out. Pull the main beam stick so your lights come on, get out of the car, shut the door, and lock/double lock it. The headlights should go off after 30 seconds. If they stay on to 180 seconds there is a door sensor problem somewhere.

Just been doing some more work on this. got me an ELM327 and modded it so i can look at the GEM module to see status of things. looks like my door sensors are okay but the main thing i found is theres a control for courtesy light... which is off yet the lights are on. i open door and control changes to on. so its not a computer or sensor issue the car is doing what it thinks is correct in terms of the gem unit.

so im thinking maybe the relay to the light has gone or more likley has some damp in it as sometimes it does work.

anyone know were the relay for the courtesy light is? im really hoping its not built in the gem unit as this would mean replacing the whole unit. (any one heard of people repairing gem units?)

thanks to everyone for the help so far

also had a look iv got no footwell bulb holders :( next thing to sort after this courtesy light is solved.

It's not controlled by a relay because it normally dims out rather than abruptly switching off. This means it'll be controlled by a semiconductor, probably pulse-width modulated, in the GEM. As you've already discovered all the interior lights are supplied with a constant 12V and are switched on by grounding the other side of the bulbs . For the map lights this is done directly by their switches but the courtesy light goes back to the GEM via the auto position of its switch. A short to ground anywhere along this path would keep the light on.

The fact it started working for a while after you'd been messing with the light units suggests an intermittent short somewhere around one of the light units is the most likely cause. Note that the GEM path goes in parallel to both front and rear units so the short could be around either.

yes forget it dims.

in the unit it self i get 3 wires to the unit. currently im getting 12V , 12V ground.

i was thinking that 12v was the for the always on position, the other 12 V was for the variable position (middle), and ground for ground.

are you saying i should have 1 12V and 2 grounds? 

I was going by the diagram in the Haynes manual so maybe one has to treat that with a bit of circumspection. It shows one ground, which goes to all three switches, and two feeds from the GEM. One of these appears to come from the battery saver relay which is what powers all the ancillaries up and times out some time after the ignition is switched off. This will be a constant 12V and goes to all three bulbs . The other GEM feed goes to the 'Auto' position of the courtesy light switch. This will be ground when the GEM switches the bulb on but when it switches it off it will either be open-circuit, in which case you'll read 12V via the bulb, or it might go to 12V if there's a pull-up in the GEM. I hope that makes sense.

thanks mjt great help gives me something to work on. need to get me a haynes not thought about it for this car yet as not had an issue lol

Just to be sure we're not overlooking things, are you sure your switch in the light is correctly switching? Iirc mine has lots of metal strips and the switch is finickity at the best of times.

seems okay it also happens on both rear and front courtesy lights. iv also tried swopping them around with the same effect.and also having only 1 plugged in with the same effect.

still waiting for my haynes guide to arrive.

can someone tell me were i will find the gem unit ?

In the passenger footwell behind the glovebox. It's part of the passenger fuseboard.

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Why Your Car’s Interior Lights Won’t Turn Off

• Updated: February 12, 2023

You get into the car for that next drive and you are ready to get on the road. So, what do you do when the interior car lights won’t turn off and you can’t get moving yet? In some cases, the fix is easy, while other times, you might need to take a few extra minutes to resolve the problem. Either way, leaving the light on can get distracting and cause danger when trying to see what’s ahead of you at night. 

In this guide, I look at the most probable causes of an interior light fault. I also show you the best fixes, helping you get back on the road quickly.

Causes of Interior Car Lights Won’t Turn Off

Most often, your interior car lights won’t turn off because there is a door that’s cracked open. There could also be an electrical malfunction with a switch. However, you don’t want to overlook the possibility that the switch is in the wrong spot because of a user error. 

Here is a more detailed list of the reasons why your car interior lights won’t turn off:

1. Door Not Closed

The interior lights of the car are all connected to the doors. In some models, the lights are also connected to the trunk. When the doors or trunk are opened, the lights will turn on. When everything is closed, the lights should be off.

For this reason, the most common reason that the lights are on has to do with an open door or trunk. Thankfully, it isn’t difficult to figure out what door is open, especially on newer cars that will tell you which one to close. 

If you are unlucky, it can also be a faulty door switch causing the car to think a car door is open, even if it’s closed.

2. Faulty Switch

The dome light in your car has a manual switch on it. When it is set to automatic, it will turn off when the doors are shut and stay on when they are open. 

However, there’s also a manual setting. If you turn the dome light to the off setting, it won’t turn on no matter what the doors are doing. On the other hand, the dome light can be set to the on setting, leaving the lights illuminated in any situation. 

There’s also the chance that an internal switch in the light is damaged. With wiring running to the switch, there’s always the possibility of a fault. 

3. Wrong Setting on Switch

There’s also a way to control the lights from the headlight switch in some car models. Typically, there’s a setting on the left side of the wheel that allows you to manually turn on the interior lights. If the setting has been bumped, it’s possible that the interior lights have been turned on when you don’t want them to be. 

Again, this is a simple fix. It’s just a matter of changing the setting back to where it should be. 

Fix Inside Car Light That Won’t Turn Off

1. adjust dome light switch.

Your first step is to look at the dome light switch. Every model contains some sort of dome light switch. If the switch is located on the light itself, you want to make sure it is in the right position.

Start by turning the light off to see if that works. Then, set it back to automatic to narrow down what might be causing the issue. If it is left at the on setting, it will not shut off no matter what you do.

2. Check Headlight Switch

If you can operate the dome light from the headlight switch, you need to check these settings as well. Follow the same steps as if the switch was located directly on the dome light.

Turn the light off to ensure it can work. Then, adjust it back to the manual setting so you can tell where the problem lies. If adjusting the knob doesn’t change the lighting display at all, there lies your problem. 

3. Check Doors

An open door will cause the light to remain on when it shouldn’t. This important safety feature ensures you don’t drive away with a door that’s not secured. To troubleshoot this issue, you need to physically check every door. Walk around the car to ensure that each door is shut properly.

If your trunk also runs the interior light, take a look at it as well. You can open and close the trunk to see if it resolves the situation. 

Some newer cars will show you what door is open. This diagnostic feature cuts down on the time needed to hunt down the problem. 

If all of the doors and the trunk are shut, you can take this a step further. Open the door and manually push on the door switch, tricking the system into thinking that the door is shut. If the light deactivates, the door might not be making contact properly. If there’s excessive play in the switch or you don’t hear it click, this part could be defective.

Some vehicles will leave the interior light on for a minute after shutting the doors. To rule this normal operation out, run the car engine to force the lights off. 

4. Inspect Wiring

If there’s nothing obvious causing the problem, you need to get a closer look at the wiring. If you have a service manual, you may be able to do this yourself. 

You must trace the wiring from each door to the vehicle frame. Each one should end at the wiring harness found behind the dashboard. There will be a junction point where they become one section of wiring to operate the lights. 

If you notice any physical damage to any of the wiring, it needs to be replaced. Additionally, you should take a closer look at the wiring harness to ensure there’s no damage. Depending on how much wiring needs to be replaced, this fix can get a little expensive. 

5. Seek Help from a Professional

If you have trouble figuring out the wiring yourself or you don’t have a service manual you feel comfortable with, you should seek out help from a professional mechanic instead. They have more experience dealing with these electrical issues, so you can rest easy knowing it will be repaired correctly.

Until you get to the mechanic, consider taking the bulb out of the dome light. Allowing the light to run all of the time ensures that the battery is drained of all its power . Some people prefer to pull the fuse to the light, but that’s not always the best solution. This fuse might control several interior systems, so it could lead to other problems.

Categories: Electric , Troubleshooting

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2003 Ford Excursion interior lights stay on after truck is turned off for 20 to 30 minutes, and door ajar light is always onbut all doors are closed.

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• Ford Master 761 Answers
• Posted on Dec 19, 2014

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• Contributor 1 Answer
• Posted on Nov 15, 2012

The switch for one of the doors (located inside the door by latch) is sticking. I fixed mine by liberally spraying WD40 on (and beside into the door as well as possible) all the latches for all the doors, then opening and closing the doors numerous times. Don't forget all 3 latches on rear doors.

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• 405 Answers
• Posted on Dec 19, 2008

SOURCE: Ford taurus door ajar light stays on

have you had the door panel apart before for anything, the switch is on your latch inside your door. I hope this helps you. I am just trying to be helpful, and will help you all the way through your repair if you like, My compensation is my rating. please be generous..lol

• Posted on Feb 01, 2009

SOURCE: door ajar light on

The drivers side door switch goes bad all the time on those, try replacing or check if its sticking.the small little button int the door jam.

• 125 Answers
• Posted on Feb 06, 2009

SOURCE: Ford 2003 Windstar Interior Floor Lights Stay On

to repair this problem you must remove floor lights from seats and check the circuit for either a short or a stuck switch use a multi tester this can get to be irritating as the short may be not directly behind switch could be along wiring that runs through car my suggestion if your not electrically proficient is take it to an electromechanic shop or simply unplug the light from socket to avoid draining the battery.

• Posted on Jan 02, 2009

SOURCE: 2003 Explorer door ajar light stay on when all doors are closed

The door switches sometimes stick. Spray some WD-40 or similar lube on them.

• Posted on Feb 16, 2009

SOURCE: 2003 ford expedition "door ajar" & interior lights staying on

the wire on the door latch make sure they are plugged in or unplug it and the light should go out if it does not then it's not that door

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Interior lights stay on

• Thread starter Texpedition
• Start date Jul 11, 2014

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• Jul 11, 2014

Texpedition

Well-known member.

So, I've read the manual and there is nothing there on troubleshooting the cause of my interior lights staying on. They should go out 25 seconds after closing the door but don't go off until the 40 minutes have passed, activated by the battery saver feature. Do I have a bad sensor somewhere that is keeping the dimmer feature from working correctly?  

with the engine running and the doors are closed do you have the door ajar light on  

Nope.  

2005Expedition

Full access members.

almost all ford did this when they are older, just push the Dim switch all the way down til it click, it will turn off all interior light.  

Will the lights stay on if the main light switch is set to defeat or off? Interior lamp relay may be stuck on. Try swapping with another or if you have a dvm or test light we can diagnose it.  

Spray all the door latches with pen fluid and work them. This should cure the issue. If they are like the rangers anyways.  

I heard wd 40 work  

I've tried WD40, turning off the dimmers, everything mentioned here. There isn't an on/off switch that I am aware of. A bad relay switch may be the most likely culprit. The running board lights turn off when the doors are closed and the map light switch no longer functions. You'd think that they'd last more than 250,000 miles but I guess they don't. At least not on Fords.  

16 years and 250000 miles and you think the switch should last longer You may be right but then you may have no idea of the abuse that the switch may have gone through Consider yourself lucky I have seen brand new switches fail shortly after being installed So don't blame Fords  

• Jul 29, 2018

bedrck46 said: with the engine running and the doors are closed do you have the door ajar light on Click to expand...

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Troubleshooting Common e-Bike Problems: The Ultimate Guide

Maintaining an ebike in good working condition can be tricky business, especially if you’re a newbie ebike rider. 

An ebike will work smoothly only when all the parts are functioning properly. Luckily, not every hiccup with your electric bike means there’s a major problem. Sometimes, it just needs a bit of DIY maintenance.

Not to mention, many ebike owners don’t live near an electric bike service shop, so getting the job done themselves can be a lifesaver. In any case, knowing how to troubleshoot common problems of ebikes is valuable information for anyone owning an electric bike or thinking about buying one. 

In this article, we’re sharing a full guide on how to troubleshoot common ebike problems to help you get back on the road in no time. So without further ado, let’s get started!

1. Troubleshooting the Battery

If your ebike won’t start or keeps cutting off, the issue can often be traced back to the battery. Even if you’re just doing a routine troubleshooting session, the battery on your ebike should be the first component to inspect. Here are some ways to troubleshoot battery problems:

Check the Voltage

The first thing you need to do is check the battery voltage. The LEDs on the control panel and the ebike should light up, if this doesn’t happen, then there’s a chance that the battery hasn’t been charged or there may have been a blown fuse. 

Checking the battery voltage can give you a clue as to whether or not the battery has been damaged.

You can check the voltage of an ebike using a voltmeter by simply attaching the prongs to the positive and negative sides of the prongs on the battery. Another way to get a reading is to fasten the voltmeter directly into the charger connector on the battery.

If you find that the battery power dies out too quickly, then the first you should do is determine how long the battery pack has been left without charging. Accordingly, you’ll be facing one of 2 scenarios:

• If the battery pack hasn’t been charged for 6 months or less, you may be able to recharge it successfully.
• If the battery pack hasn’t been charged for more than 6 months, then it’s probably defective. 

If you know that your ebike has been sitting in the garage for some time without recharging and when you try to start it, the battery loses power too quickly, then it’s safe to assume that the battery is defective and will require a replacement. 

If you’ve charged your ebike battery for less than 8 hours, try letting it charge for 8 hours and then check if the electric bike can run at full speed. We highly recommended not to leave the battery charger plugged into your electric bike for more than 12 hours. This is to avoid the risk of overcharging or damaging the battery if the charger malfunctions.

Check the Battery Charger

While you’re at it, you should also check the battery charger. You don’t need any tools to get this done; just plug the battery charger into the wall and see if one or more of the indicator lights are illuminated. 

If the indicator light doesn’t illuminate or even blink on and off when the charger is plugged into the wall, then you’re dealing with a defective charger. To test the output voltage of your battery charger, you can use a multimeter or voltmeter.

The voltage reading must be a few volts higher than the battery charger’s rated voltage. If the output on the battery charger is lower than the battery charger’s rated voltage or if it’s zero, then the battery charger is defective.

For example, if your ebike is equipped with a 36V battery but the voltmeter reads 10 volts, then the battery is faulty. In this case, it’s a good idea to check if your ebike is still under warranty. 

If so, then you can contact the manufacturer and file a warranty claim for replacement parts. But if not, then you should buy a new battery.

If the voltmeter reads a surface charge of more than 36V, then the battery is fully charged and you can try troubleshooting another component.

Check the Battery Management System

If your ebike keeps cutting off, one of the most common reasons for such hiccups is a failing battery. If your battery pack is particularly choking when under load, then the issue could be that the battery management system is shutting it off to protect your battery pack from overeating.

Typically, the battery management system will cut off the power if it senses the battery draining too fast below certain safe levels.

Often than not, a severe voltage drop means that one or more cells in your battery pack have been damaged. There are several reasons for such malfunction including aging, too frequent charge cycles, improper battery management, and a manufacturing defect. 

If you’re experiencing power cuts with a new ebike that you’re just starting to use, it might be because the pack has been sized, engineered, or manufactured with less than the required high current capacity for supporting heavy loads.

When cells fail, it’s usually due to being under severe loads. One way to solve this is by dropping the assist level and pedaling a little harder when going up steep inclines or hills. This should reduce the load on your battery.

Another thing to keep an eye out for is the possibility of your battery arriving already pre-aged. This can happen in lower-quality batteries that are typically installed in cheaper bikes because they’re made by recycling batteries from other older devices such as laptops.

To find out if your battery is the culprit behind the repeated choking of your ebike, try using it on a different reliable electric bike with the same setup as yours. The same problem should happen if the battery is faulty. 

If you’ve owned your ebike for a few years and you’ve used it almost every day, the frequent rides may have just pushed the battery pack towards the natural end of its lifespan. Here, buying a new pack from the manufacturer will solve the issue.

Check the Battery Prongs

A failing battery can be the result of improper lining up of its prongs. If this is the case, the electrical circuit can’t be completed so no power will be produced.

Using a wrench, you can easily fix this issue by slightly bending the prongs to realign them into the correct position.

Check the Battery Charger Port

Additionally, you need to check the battery charger port. Be sure to first unplug the battery charger if it’s plugged into the wall. 

Next, plug the battery charger into the battery charger port on your ebike and observe the indicator light on the battery charger. If the indicator light illuminates when the charger is plugged into the electric bike, then the wiring and the wiring connectors going to the charger port as well the charger port itself are working.

If you have a voltmeter or a multimeter, you can test the voltage of the battery charger port. The level of the voltage measured at the charging port must be the same as the one rater for the battery pack. 

Alternatively, you can test the battery pack on another reliable electric bike where you ride the ebike at full throttle on flat ground. Note how long the battery pack will last. 

On flat ground, most ebikes have a battery range somewhere between 30 and 45 minutes. If your battery pack lasts less than 30 to 20 minutes, chances are it’s worn out and you have to replace it. Severely worn out batteries have a maximum range of 5 to 10 minutes.

• If your ebike features a headlight, you can perform a load test by fastening an arch-shaped piece of cardboard over the headlight so you can see the beam from the headlight while riding.

From here, you can fully charge the battery pack and ride your ebike with the headlight on. Keep an eye out for the headlight’s beam shining on the cardboard. 

If the battery is good, the headlight will dim just a bit when you give the ebike full throttle. If the beam on the headlight dims severely when you give the ebike full throttle, then you’ll know that the battery is worn out.

• If you can get your hands on a multimeter, you can perform a battery load test while your ebike is running. Start by fully charging the battery, then jack up the rear wheel by connecting the multimeter to the battery. Give the electric bike full throttle while engaging the brake on the rear without locking it up. 

When you engage the rear brake, the battery pack will go through a load so you can then read the voltage and find out how much it drops. If the battery is working well, the voltage will drop by a few volts only. Otherwise, the voltage will massively drop. 

2. Troubleshooting the Brake Motor Inhibitor

If you’ve dropped your ebike, then a part of the handlebars may have been damaged. You can easily spot this by visually inspecting your handlebars and brake levers for signs of any cosmetic damage. 

If you find that the brakes have been pulled back because of damage and can’t seem to break free, this will cause the motor inhibitor switch to stay turned on. To get your ebike running again, you’ll need to fix the jammed brake levers.

If the damage is significant, then the switch itself may require replacing. Such a process will need the skills of an expert electric bike mechanic.

• Some people may suggest that you use your controller to figure out which wires are for the brake inhibitor so you can disconnect them completely to get rid of the problem. However, we stress that you never do that as it can be extremely dangerous on the road.

If your brakes aren’t functioning properly, then you should check the shoes or the brake pads for signs of wear. If they’re damaged or worn out, replace them right away. You should also check the brake cable tension and adjust it if necessary.

If you find the brake pads or the brake shoes in good condition then you may want to tighten the brake cable adjuster on the brake lever or the brake itself until the brake becomes more responsive. Make sure that the brakes aren’t rubbing on the rotor or rim when the brake lever is released. 

Once you’ve adjusted the brake cable adjusters to the end of their limits, screw them all the way in. Then, tighten the brake cable by loosening the brake cable stopper, pulling the brake cable tight, and re-tightening the brake cable stopper. 

You can make a final adjustment to the brake cable tension by unthreading the brake cable adjuster until you get the right tension. 

• It’s crucial to your and others safety that you maintain the braking system; keep discs and rims clean and straight, promptly replace any worn-out brake shoes and pads, replace frayed or worn cables and housings, and lightly lubricate brake pivot points.

3. Troubleshooting the Controller

Think of the controller as the processor of your ebike operating system. As a result, it’s also one of the most common reasons why your electric bike may not be working properly. 

The controller’s job is to take input signals from all the controls and sensors on the ebike, analyze them, and then determine the best way to transfer the power coming from the battery to the motor.

Since the controller serves a huge yet sensitive purpose in the functioning of an ebike, the slightest technical glitch could ruin the established balance in any aspect including power transfer and distribution. 

Inspect your controller for any wires that may be loose, disconnected, or misconnected. If you do see disconnected cables, reconnect them to the proper port. In general, the wires should be color-coded so you can match the same color wire with the same color the outlet.

If the controller doesn’t work at all, make sure that the power switch is turned on. Also, check the fuse or circuit breaker.

If your ebike comes with a circuit breaker, you can reset the circuit breaker by pushing the breaker. However, you should be aware of any problems that may pop up as circuit breakers are designed to protect the system and there could already be an ongoing problem that’ll seriously damage components.

For ebikes with a fuse, you can simply remove it and hold it against some light to see if it’s burned out. If so, replace the fuse.

4. Troubleshooting the Throttle

A lot of ebikes on the market come with throttle control. If you overuse the throttle control, it may get stuck when pulled back and won’t return to the off position on its own.

If you do this repeatedly, the throttle will eventually loosen or get damaged. If this happens, you’ll tend to experience power cut-offs. 

The safest way to use the twist throttle is to pull it back and then slowly release it back into its original position once you’re done.

If the throttle is feeling loose or missing out on strokes from time to time, you can just replace it after testing whether or not it’s receiving steady power. This way you’ll know for sure that your throttle is to blame.

5. Troubleshooting the Pedal Assist

Malfunctions of the power or pedal assist system on your ebike may cause issues associated with pulsating or occasional power cut-offs. Different ebike models feature different pedal assist systems; some are built around the front sprocket chainring while others are built into the bottom bracket.

If you’ve recently made mechanical adjustments to the wheels, pedals, sprockets, derailleurs, and so on, this could be why you’re encountering power supply hiccups. Another reason for such issues could be the ring of magnets on the front sprocket; the sensors may be out of alignment due to being dirty or knocked around.

You can adjust the pedal-assist magnet position using a flathead screwdriver to push the disc nearer to the sensors. If this doesn’t work and you’re having a hard time determining whether or not your pedal assist system is faulty, it’s best to take your ebike to an electric bike service shop so they can remove and replace the faulty parts.

6. Troubleshooting the Motor Connections

As we mentioned earlier, loose wire connections are one of the most common reasons why you may be experiencing issues with your ebike. As such, the wires connected to the rear hub motor can often get loose, frayed, or damaged over time. 

If the wires are loose, you’ll probably have to replace the loose or damaged portions. Check if there are any melted or burned wires connected to the rear hub motor. 

Melted or burned wires are a sign of overheating. If the insulation on the copper coil wires melts due to overheating, occasional short circuits may occur causing the power to cut off. 

If the coils in the motor keep overheating, you’re potentially risking the motor’s integrity and may end up having to replace the motor to avoid damaging the controller.

Check the motor’s power transmission system for missing parts. Worn-out, missing, or damaged components could lead to problems in power transmission resulting in unwanted interruptions of power flow. 

There you have it, a comprehensive guide on how to troubleshoot common problems of ebikes. Even though DIY maintenance can be easy to perform, it’s still best to bring your electric bike to a service shop if you’re not fully confident in your skills.

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Moscow by Night

One of the most popular tours of my guests is a walk through Moscow at night. This tour helps tourists to see Moscow not as a bustling hive, but as a majestic Empress full of ceremonial glory. Moscow night tour lasts nearly for three hours, but at the end of the walk it seems to be gone only an hour. During the excursion around Moscow at night, guests can enjoy not only the beauty of illumination, but also to learn more about the history of the city and its architecture, see  legendary cathedrals, buildings and squares of Moscow, famous over the world, and to make great shots of attractions.

Night Moscow is full of magic. It is fascinating and enigmatic. If you decided to visit Russia in winter season, you will feel the fairytale atmoshere of the capital decorated with festive New Year and Christmas decorations. Walking through Moscow's streets at night you would never believe that just a few hours before you wandered through the same ones, only in the light of day. It is amazing how the city can change in the glow of night illumination. The incredible beauty of the city at night fascinates.

Excellent illumination turns the capital to the city of a fairy tale, dream-city of the children's book.

A wonderful excursion begins with perhaps the most famous places in the whole Moscow - Red Square , located at the north-eastern wall of the Kremlin. History of Russia's main square has its roots in the end of 15th century.

Nowadays, parades and celebrations of important events in the life of the Russian Federation are held at this famous square. At night Red Square stuns with its magnificent illuminations. Solemn and austere in daylight, it looks elegant and festive in the glow of night lights.

Patriarchy Bridge

Our path lies to the Patriarchy Bridge than. There is a beautiful view of the night Red Square, The Cathedral of Christ the Savior and the monument to Peter the Great at this point.

Built in Russian-Byzantine style in honor of the victory of the Russian people over Napoleon's troops the magnificent Cathedral of Christ the Savior seems to be a magical castle from a fairy tale, full of mysterious charm. Its white silhouette stands out brightly against the night sky. It seems that the walls of the Cathedral lit from within by the divine light. It is really a stunning effect.

Sparrow Hills

Next place that deserves special attention are the Sparrow Hills . There is a unique view on Moscow at night with bird's-eye view from this place - at least 85 meters over of the Moscow-River. Looking at the capital full of illumination, lit by millions of lights, stretching out at the feet, you feel on top of the world. It seems that you are a magician, surveying your luxurious land. You will have the opportunity to see a spectacular view of the Luzhniki stadium - the largest one in Russia and one of the largest stadiums in the world. This stadium was built in 1955-1956 years. It was here the Olympic Games took place and a lot of sport competitions and concerts of well-known artists and bands were conducted.

At night the stadium is light up along the whole circular length at night. It seems that the stadium is a great shining pearl in the illumination of thousands of lights. From this point of Moscow you can see the erecting buildings of Financial Center Moscow-City by projects of English architect Norman Foster. Some buildings are ready; some are in the process of erection. Completion is planned for 2015. We all look forward to completion to enjoy the magnificent view of monumental modern buildings at night in the rays of illumination.

All of Stalin's skyscrapers , erected in the mid 50-ies by the orders of Stalin are visible from the top of Sparrow Hills, including Moscow State University , known for its night laser lights. Each skyscraper has a unique lighting. Panorama from Sparrow Hills is sure to impress guests: dazzling shining of metropolis with millions of lights makes the capital an unforgettable and beautiful. Magic night in Moscow fascinates.

Novodevichy Convent

My guests are particularly impressed by the panorama of Novodevichy Convent .

This magnificent example of the Orthodox women's monastery was founded in 1524 by Prince Vasily III. There are a lot of stories and legends of Moscow connected with the monastery. It played a prominent role in the cultural life of Russia. Today Novodevichy Convent is both working monastery and a branch of the State Historical Museum. Night walk along the pond will fully appreciate the beauty of the Novodevichy convent at night. Rising above the dark surface of the water, it seems to be full of shining, light and peace. The lights of the five-headed Smolensky Cathedral and the monumental bell tower of the monastery illuminate the dark sky solemnly, cutting through the darkness and giving hope.

Victory Park

Three hours driving and walking tour ends in Victory Park on Kutuzov Avenue with a stop near the Arch of Triumph.

Victory Park was opened in Moscow in 1995 and is coincided to 50 years of victory over the fascist invaders. The original nighttime illumination of Victory Monument will not leave any spectator indifferent.

Excellent coverage of the Arch of Triumph on Kutuzov Avenue, built in honor of the victory over Napoleon in 1812, will complement this impression.

The tour will introduce you to such streets and squares as Tverskaya and New Arbat streets, Pushkinskaya Square, Gagarin’s Square, Lubyanka Square, and October Square. Also you will see such famous buildings in the night illumination, as White House, Former KGB, Stalin’s Skyscrapers, Old building of French Embassy, Bolshoy Theater and many others.

Moscow at night is a truly fascinating spectacle. City Lights beckon and create a holiday atmosphere. If you have seen Moscow at night - you looked into her very heart, saw her real - a beautiful, bright, exotic queen.

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Moscow in one day, best highlights of moscow.

• Ice Rink at Cathedral of Christ the Savior On the first days of 2008 the temperature of air in Moscow lowered down to -16..-18 C (+3…0 F), but was not snow on the grounds yet. This picture of Cathedral of Christ the Savior with view of frozen Moscow River (Moskva-Reka) that looks as like ice rink I took very early morning after seeing off my current client from USA to airport.
• Moscow Evening Photoshoot Celebrating 2nd Wedding Anniversary Moscow evening (twilight) photo session on July 1st, 2019 during night tour with my Dear clients from Iran, Mozhgan and Siamak, celebrating their 2nd wedding anniversary in Russia.

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About Me in Short

My name's Arthur Lookyanov, I'm a private tour guide, personal driver and photographer in Moscow, Russia. I work in my business and run my website Moscow-Driver.com from 2002. Read more about me and my services , check out testimonials of my former business and travel clients from all over the World, hit me up on Twitter or other social websites. I hope that you will like my photos as well.

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