is 150mm travel enough for downhill

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Results have arrived, mtb travel - how much mtb suspension travel do you need what does it mean.

Do you want more suspension travel or less? How do you know how much you need? Here's how to decide whether a long-travel or short-travel MTB is better for you and your trails.

Written by: Bruce Lin

Published on: Mar 9, 2022

Posted in: MTB

You’re going to a big, important party, but you’re iffy about the dress code. Would you rather show up overdressed or underdressed?

A lot of mountain bikers face a similar dilemma, but instead of choosing the right clothes, it’s about choosing the right bike. You've probably heard certain bikes described as “too much bike” or “not enough bike.” But what does that mean?

In mountain biking, suspension travel often receives the most attention when riders are looking at bike specs. Depending on your skill, riding style, and terrain, there is likely an ideal amount of suspension travel. Other specs such as geometry , wheels , and tires  matter too, but they are usually tailored to match a bike's suspension.

Most modern mountain bikes will have somewhere between 100mm and 170mm of suspension travel. This covers everything from cross-country race machines to versatile mid-travel trail bikes to hard-hitting enduro bikes . (If you want to learn more about how mountain bikes are categorized check out our Mountain Bike Buyer’s Guide .)

So what's the right amount of travel for you?

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MTB travel basics: what is travel on a mountain bike?

In case you're new to riding, mountain bike suspension travel is a measurement of how much a wheel can move to absorb bumps. On the front, mountain bike travel comes from your suspension fork. At the rear, MTB travel is provided by some configuration of frame pivots that compress a rear shock.

When to choose a long-travel MTB

Long-travel bikes usually have 150-170mm of rear travel to handle tough downhill trails. Front travel often matches rear travel but sometimes can be more.

Trail and enduro bikes fall into this category. They absorb big hits and smooth out rough terrain. If you regularly ride steep or gnarly trails, a bike like this makes a lot of sense. 

If you're mostly riding mellow flow trails though, a big and burly long-travel bike might be overkill. You won't be able to use all the suspension travel you paid for. The bike may feel cumbersome, maybe a bit boring, and you’ll have to expend more energy to push it around and climb uphill.

But let’s say you lack confidence on descents. A more capable enduro bike with ample suspension travel could help you enjoy riding more by increasing your confidence, comfort, and giving you more margin for error. 

Some ride big and burly bikes everywhere because they're fit enough to pedal a long-travel bike up big climbs and on long rides without much trouble. For them, being overbiked isn't a handicap, and it's worth it for when the trail gets gnarly. If you care more about descending as fast as possible more than having a bike that's efficient for pedaling or climbing, long-travel bikes will cater more to your style.

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When to choose a short-travel MTB

Short-travel bikes usually have 100-120mm of travel to maximize efficiency. In some cases, these bikes could have forks with 10-20mm more travel to make them more versatile on descents.

XC and short-travel trail bikes fall into this category. They are efficient and usually feel more agile than longer-travel bikes. If you race cross-country, do long adventure rides, or stick to mellow trails, these are the best option.

If you venture onto steep and gnarly downhill tracks with big rocks and jumps, a short-travel bike will start to feel sketchy. There’s a good chance you’ll have to ride slower and more cautiously than you would on a long-travel bike, taking easier lines and occasionally skipping tough sections.

But let’s say you dread going uphill and are constantly getting dropped by fitter riders. A bike with less travel that’s lighter and more efficient could help you go faster and expend less energy. 

If you’re a skilled rider that just wants to make riding more exciting, short-travel bikes provide a lot more trail feedback and give you less room for error. You have to stay focused, be more selective about lines, and be more active with your body. For some, this can be a more enjoyable ride experience than just sitting back and letting a long-travel bike do the hard work for you.

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So how much suspension travel do I need?

Seth H., Merchandising Manager   "I started on an XC hardtail and rode everything, even gnarly downhills on it. It had a dropper and I did just fine. I really thought it was all I would ever need. Then I went to Moab. I rode a borrowed enduro bike on The Whole Enchilada and it kind of opened my eyes. I bought a bigger bike not long after and started riding all my regular trails again. It changed how I rode.

"Personally, I really don’t mind being overbiked for most of my riding now. I ride alone a lot so I go my own pace. But I'm also decently fit and I can keep up with everyone I ride with on my bigger bike (an Ibis Ripmo). If you’re fit, I say go as big as you want."

Chad H., Warehouse Manager   "I would prefer to be underbiked on the majority of trails. Being underbiked keeps the skills sharp and makes the trail an exciting challenge. I feel that being overbiked takes the challenge and excitement out of trails. It leads to laziness and dulls your skill as a rider.

"Right now for me, I believe the best bike for 85 percent of the riding I do will be a full suspension cross country bike, like the Santa Cruz Blur. I would add a dropper seatpost and Fox Step-Cast 34 120mm fork just to give it a tiny bit more capability. Or the new Trek Top Fuel, or possibly a Yeti SB100 are good options. It's what people are calling 'downcountry' now, even though I hate the term. It will be a little bit more capable than a full cross country bike, but it’ll have the same quick handling and speed. That'll be perfect for me." 

What about mid-travel "quiver-killer" mountain bikes?

I always keep at least two mountain bikes in my quiver: a long-travel enduro bike and a short-travel XC bike. This lets me tackle everything from downhill bike parks to short-track XC races. But for many riders, a mid-travel trail bike is all you need.

Mid-travel bikes are a good compromise between downhill performance and pedaling/climbing efficiency. They usually have 120-140mm of travel. Many call these bikes "quiver-killers," because they can do it all (well, almost). I even spent a full season on a quiver-killer , just to see how well it worked for a wide range of riding and was pleasantly surprised by how versatile it actually was.

However, these bikes don't completely excel at anything. A longer-travel bike will be better downhill and a shorter travel bike will be more efficient for racing. Ultimately, if you can only have one bike for casual riding, or you're unsure what type of mountain bike you need for your local trails, this category is the best option. 

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How to choose a mountain bike

Are your trails rough and rocky or smooth and flowy? Are they fast and steep or tight and technical? Your terrain has a big impact on bike selection. Generally, the rougher, steeper, and faster a trail is, the more travel you'll want and vice versa. 

The second step is to know yourself. Your riding ambition is nearly as important as terrain. If you are a ripper who lives for downhills, you'll probably want to support yourself with more travel. But if your ride fantasy involves conquering high mountains, and exploring miles of backcountry trails, you might want to stay light and efficient with less travel.

No matter what, it's possible to have fun riding any bike, and having the ideal amount of suspension travel isn't everything. Keep in mind too that the rider is always going to make a far bigger difference than the bike. Fast descenders drop me on gnarly downhills riding XC hardtails, and fit climbers drop me on uphills riding heavy enduro machines. Good riders take what they have, and make it work. 

That being said, you can always play to your strengths or weaknesses. Having a bike that enhances the parts of riding that you care about the most will make mountain biking more fun. 

Are you overbiked or underbiked for your trails? Do you prefer long travel or short travel? Or do you have a bike that sits somewhere in the middle? Let us know in the comments!

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How much suspension travel do I need on my mountain bike?

From cross-country to downhill, we take you through how much travel you can expect on the major types of mountain bike

Andy Lloyd / Our Media

Mountain bikes feature different amounts of suspension travel depending on the type of riding they're designed for.

Suspension travel describes the amount of movement a suspension fork or rear shock has. It is usually a measurement of how far the wheel axle moves in a vertical or near-vertical plane as the suspension compresses.

Depending on the discipline of riding the bike is designed for, the suspension travel can vary from 80 to 200mm. While more travel may seem better, helping you soak up lumps and bumps, it can be a hindrance if your riding includes lots of climbing or you benefit from a light, responsive bike.

This means deciding on the right amount of travel for your needs can be difficult, but there are a few factors to keep in mind, including your riding style and the type of trails and terrain you'll be tackling.

Bike manufacturers design their mountain bikes around different travel lengths, tailored to specific terrains or riding disciplines, and categorise the bikes accordingly. As a result, looking at the different categories of mountain bikes, their intended application and travel length is a handy way to determine how much travel you need and what bike you should get.

In this guide, we’ll explain the different mountain bike categories and how much suspension travel they typically have.

Cross-country mountain bikes

The best cross-country mountain bikes are designed to compete in high-level, fast races, where lightness and pedalling efficiency are often the keys to success.

Typically, cross-country bikes have featured 80 to 100mm of travel. Because cross-country race courses have become more extreme and technical, it is now common to see bikes designed around 120mm travel front and rear, such as Scott’s Spark RC .

Using less suspension travel than other mountain bikes means cross-country bikes can be built with a lighter frame construction because less reinforcement is needed to deal with the lower frame articulation. This helps riders race up the kinds of inclines that characterise XC races .

The short-travel forks used on cross-country bikes also help to keep weight down because they utilise a lighter chassis and narrower stanchions, usually 30 to 32mm in diameter.

Stanchions are the part of the fork connected to the crown and remain rigid to the bike while the lowers move up and down over them.

The trade-off for this weight saving comes in the form of fork flex, which impacts the directness of steering inputs and the overall ability of the fork to perform in gnarlier terrain as friction levels build on the seals.

A short-travel fork will also run out of travel quicker compared to one with more travel. Although setup and damper performance will dictate a lot of factors in how proficiently it absorbs bumps, less travel means it won't absorb bigger bumps as well as a long-travel fork.

Hardtail mountain bikes are also well-represented in cross-country, because rigid frames allow for the highest pedalling efficiency. However, the traction and descending ability of full-suspension bikes make them desirable to many riders.

Downcountry mountain bikes

Downcountry bikes aim to balance a cross-country bike's efficiency with a trail bike's downhill capability.

‘Downcountry’ is a relatively new mountain bike discipline and isn’t that well defined as a result. But in terms of suspension, these bikes range from beefed up cross-country at 110mm of travel, to lightweight trail with around 130mm front and rear travel.

Having slightly more travel than an outright cross-country bike means downcountry bikes are more capable on descents. However, with shorter travel than trail bikes, they still offer greater pedalling efficiency than burlier bikes.

Downcountry bike frames can be made lighter than trail bikes because the demand on the frame is less. This means they require less material in their construction because they don’t require the same amount of strength as a trail or enduro bike needs.

Downcountry bikes usually feature stronger, stiffer forks, with thicker stanchions, usually 34mm in diameter. This gives higher levels of rigidity to the fork, making steering inputs more direct, although concessions are still made to weight savings.

Trail mountain bikes

Trail bikes are one of the most popular types of mountain bike. They are designed to straddle the line between enduro bikes and cross-country bikes, providing a ride that’s fun but capable.

Confident on descents and fairly capable on climbs, trail bikes typically have between 120 and 160mm of suspension travel.

Trail bikes at the longer end of the suspension-travel spectrum cross the boundary into all-mountain. Typically, these bikes will feature beefier frame construction to deal with the added suspension travel.

The optimum amount of travel depends on what terrain or trails you like to ride, and where you’d like to progress with your riding. 140mm is ideal for even the toughest trail centres, with more travel being required for gnarlier ambitions.

Forks with mid-sized stanchions, either 34mm, 35mm or 36mm in diameter, are common on trail bikes. These shift the balance away from lightness toward rigid stability for better handling while descending. Less flexibility in the fork will mean more direct steering input, making the bike feel more planted through the rough stuff.

Enduro mountain bikes

Enduro bikes are designed to meet the demands of enduro racing , which consists of multiple downhill stages that riders have to reach within a set time limit. As a result, enduro bikes have to perform well on technical descents while providing a decent pedalling platform to get you to the top of the trail in good time.

Travel for enduro bikes starts at 150mm and ranges up to 180mm. There is a 190mm-travel version of RockShox’s enduro-focused ZEB fork, but you’re more likely to see this attached to a freeride or bike park bike.

Enduro bikes require a burly frame construction in order to cope with the demands of downhill trails.

Head tubes have to be stronger to deal with the extra force coming from the long-travel fork, while the rear linkage has to be able to support the extra articulation.

This added frame construction makes the frame heavier, impacting efficiency when going uphill, but the pay-off is worth it when coming back down.

Forks within this travel range prioritise rigidity over weight savings, with thicker stanchions of 36mm to 38mm, providing direct steering inputs and a solid feel as you ride over gnarly terrain.

Downhill mountain bikes

Downhill bikes are designed for, you guessed it, riding downhill. The discipline doesn’t require the bike to be pedalled on uphill or even flat terrain, enabling designers to focus solely on providing the best platform for descending steep and technical trails.

These bikes feature some of the longest suspension travel, ranging from 180 to 200mm, helping to protect riders from large, repeated impacts.

Frames have to be built to the highest strength levels to cope with the impacts you experience on downhill trails. Although downhill frames are heavier than those intended for other disciplines, it's less important to have light frames because you’re not pedalling them uphill.

Downhill forks feature the thickest stanchion, ranging from 35 to 40mm in diameter, because they deal with the most extreme terrain and require the greatest rigidity.

Weight isn’t a big issue for downhill bikes, so the added heft is worth the trade-off for the performance gains.

The forks on downhill bikes have a dual-crown design, meaning the fork mounts above and below the head tube, as opposed to single-crown forks, which mount only from below. This adds more torsional stiffness to the fork, helping to keep steering inputs direct through the toughest terrain and providing strength for big impacts.

Electric mountain bikes

Electric mountain bikes are heavy, even compared to downhill bikes. The added weight a battery and motor bring means frames as well as components have to be engineered to cope with the extra weight – and contribute even more weight to the bike in the process.

Electric bikes can be categorised by the other disciplines featured in this article and will tend to feature the travel of that discipline.

The best electric mountain bikes will feature e-MTB specific forks and shocks, some with thicker stanchions for rigidity, and custom tunes that are suited to the heavier weight of the bike.

Because you’ll have a motor, there won’t be a trade-off in having a bike with more travel (and therefore weight), with the bike taking up the burden on the hills.

What about hardtail mountain bikes?

Hardtail mountain bikes have a suspension fork and a rigid rear end. They can be seen in a variety of disciplines, though are mainly represented in the cross-country and trail disciplines. They are also popular when it comes to budget mountain bikes because the simplicity of their design and less suspension means less cost.

As with other types of mountain bikes, fork travel is usually dependent on discipline. Cross-country hardtails typically have 100mm of travel, but more aggressive hardtails can have suspension travel of up to 150mm.

Some manufacturers will design frames with flex points in the rear triangle, allowing for vertical compliance in the frame. This improves comfort when sat in the saddle, and to a smaller extent rear-wheel traction while climbing.

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• Trail Riding

How much travel do I NEED? 120mm vs 150mm

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Trying to decide on a new bike and this choice is killing me.:madman: The trails here in northeren vermont are mostly rocky, rooty single track. There are some pretty sketchy/technical downhill sections but my biggest drop would be like 3 feet. I'm an intermediate rider, 5'8 170lbs. My last bike(that I sold) was a Heckler with a 36 talas and dhx coil, before that a cannondale hardtail. It was my first F.S. bike that I got for a really good deal and rode for 2 summers. It changed my riding for sure but I'm thinking that it was overkill for my needs. So my question- for singletrack/light all mountain, is 20-30mm more travel really going help me? Should I go with the longer travel so that when I improve I won't want a new bike? I'm looking at a remedy 7 or fuel 8 for new bikes as I want to stay around $2000 and my buddy(who owns a shop)can get me a great deal but I'm really searching the used bikes on here. Looking at the blur lt1, yeti 575, enduro/stumpjumper, ect. Is new better? I know Fox recently tweaked their shocks. Mabey a new fuel/remedy is better then a 3-4 year bike? The Treks get great reviews. HELP!!  

Probably depends on how you view the extra weight vs. extra travel and cost. I went from a 4" hardtail GF Tassajara to a 6" FS Fezzari Nebo and it was a huge improvement on technical terrain. I can roll over roots and rocks with the Nebo that would stop me on the Tassajara. As I've become more experienced I think the advantage of the 6" travel on technical terrain is less because I have learned to unload the front end more efficiently but I still enjoy riding the heavier 6" FS bike compared to the 4" HT by quite a margin. When it comes to drops and jumps then there's no comparison. The 6" rig is so much nicer. If you want speed on XC type terrain then less travel and less weight would have the advantage. I ride to get a good workout and to have fun so a few extra pounds means nothing to me. The smoother ride and improved control that the 6" travel bike offers is more important by far in my case. One other thing to consider is the Talas fork. You can set it to 4, 5, or 6" with corresponding geometry changes. At 6" the front sits higher and its nice for descents, jumps and drops. At 4" or 5" the bike is rotated forward a bit which is great for climbing without lifting the front tire. Sort of the best of both worlds except for weight.  

It depends on if you ride hard and fast enough to use ALL 6" on the trail. If you can then it will help but if you end up being one of those guys that pedals around a 6" bike and uses 4" of travel then there is no reason to lug around that weight. IMHO  

Trek, all those Bontrager parts, I'd probably want to spend $300 on upgrades from new, but maybe that's just me, or you have those spare parts already. A Heckler, running a 150mm and 360 fork? And that was too much? Are you riding up everything and never walking or carrying the bike? If so I would call this Trail/XC riding. Then go shorter travel maybe 120mm and as light as you can. You could go HT if this is what you are riding.  

Good stuff so far! Thank you. Weight is not an issue for me, I prefer performance over a pound or 2. I def. feel that I would want to upgrade parts on a new trek but I would do it slowly over time as stuff broke or the cash was flowin good that month. The 2011remedy 7 is lookin good but so does a 2008 Blur lt with better parts spec. jsumner13-still really good skiing up here for now, but I'm looking ahead  

I'd go with a good 5" bike for that type of riding with a dual air revolution and not worry about travel adjust. Trance, pivot mach 5, stumpys, spitfires, mojo's... so many bikes in the category. I'm riding a 1x10 spitfire with a van 36 160mm up front and frequently peddle it up hill on rides generally between 12 to 20+ miles 3 to four times a week. Sure you can always get away with less suspension, but it's good to have it when you want it.  

ive ridden catamount a few times and for there my 150 bike is overkill, a 120 or so bike would be better.  

I think people look too hard at travel. Comparing bikes like the Fuel and Remedy is more about geometry and intended usage as opposed to ~1" of suspension travel. We often forget that we have several feet of suspension travel via our bodies (arms and legs) to over come trail obstacles, absorb hits, etc. Do you really want to build your technical skills (super rough terrain) and eventually start moving into jumps and drops? Then go Remedy, the slacker head angle and higher BB will help the learning curve. Don't ever plan on dropping over 3'? Go Fuel, the steeper head angle, lighter weight, and lower BB will make for a quicker, snappier bike more adept at climbing and general XC.  

Another piling on with the geometry is more important than travel. Short travel, moderately beefy, but slacker than most 5" bikes is (like monstertiki) I'm now very happy with my Spitfire. If not wanting to go quite that far, IMO, the Fuel is a good choice. If it were me buying, and looking to go "off the rack" for a new bike it'd be something in the Giant Trance-X line.  

I have the Enduro with 150mm travel (front and back) and a 67* HA. I do some jumps but small ones. I think the only time I've really bottom out my rear end was when I attempted to do a bunny hop onto a (street) curb but I failed and landing my rear tire smack at the curb edge (remember, I'm landing onto an edge so that creates a lot of instant compression; I also got a pinch flat on this attempt and my rear tire was at 40 psi and i'm about 135 lbs). And for the front forks, the only time I remember bottoming out was then I rolled right into a freakin 3' drop but my forks that day did not have enough PSI in it (after putting about 5 psi in it, it never bottom out at the same roll again). All of my riding is in Socal mountains so it's got a mix of flat and bumps and drops. Lots of time, I do wish I have a 5" both up front and back. I feel that with 5", I can steer quicker, flick quicker, and have more fun railing corners. With 6", sometimes I feel like the bike is too "smushy" in corners due to the travel. I suppose I could try to dial in a 6" bike so that it behaves like a 5" bike, but it's a lot harder to get a 6" dialed in, and I have to spend too much time messing with the PSI. I feel like with a 5" bike, I could just "set and forget". Setting up a 6" (or longer) bike is usuaully harder because getting the bike to work at that magic sweet spot of the suspension without being either too stiff or blowing through the midstroke is very very hard. I see lots of guys will send in their 6"+ forks and shocks to a specialist to have them tuned & valved (because it's just hard to get them bike dialed). It's much easier to dial in a 5" or 4" bike though. Lately I"ve been practing doing lots of jumps but never managed to bottom neither the forks for shock out either. But jumping is different from trail riding because with jumping you just pump up the PSI and don't care about bump compliance (well the only bump you'll get is the landing).  

If you are riding trail in northern VT, you don't need a huge bike. I lived there for a bunch of years, and I think having a precision tool is what you are going to want over a giant squishy. And 6 inches of sprung wheel hanging off the front of the bike can feel like a drag when you are trying to dice through trees and such. You can get a lot of mileage out there with 80-100mm of travel on a hardtail. Those are my preferences.  

I had a fuel ex that I had some upgrades to and now I sold that and bought a Giant Reign 6" travel bike. I am way more happy with the giant. Rode the bike this weekend and didn't lock the fork or put propedal on. I feel the Trek had alot more pedal bob on the up hills without the propedal on. Wether I use all my suspension or not I would rather have the Reign. Also I did have the ex5 with a reba rlt ti and every part upgraded it still weighted 31 pounds. My Reign with same componts weighs in just under 30. With ks post and straitline pedals. just my 2 cents  

For $2000 the Trek EX8 is a great bike, and would be hard to beat. I also think that a bike in the 5" range is about the best for all around riding. Some talk about pedal bob, but it isn't really that bad, and if it really bugs you just flip the PP on. Good luck with your search. Best, John  

If you are looking for a 5" bike check out the used cannondale riz or rz 140 bikes they can be built light or beefed up and take some hits. They are popular on the enduro circuit the last few years.  

160mm if you have a dick.  

...Check. I'm debating between a new Remedy (140mm) and Slash (160mm). After countless hours of deliberation, my torturous internet searches can finally come to an end--160mm, here I come. Thanks pfox!  

I too went to a 6in dual suspension after 13 yrs on a 4" HT. Love it! Not as fast on flat trails (but still funner) def. More fun and faster on rooty/rocky east coast. The 6in allows me to float and flow where on the ht I would pick lines. I also don't do drops (wheelie drops) over 3-4ft and don't intend on going beyond that (too much consequence for mistakes). I still don't think the extra travel is in vain. I've learned to preload the suspension while riding and am now able to spring out of corners and jumps in a more fluid motion. On a last note, head angle on my bike (GT Force) is 69 deg. This bike is not quite an AM rig. Its a "long legged trail bike". The head angle and 32mm fork are still trail while the travel is AM. To me, that has been the perfect step up from a HT and does really well in NC piedmont area, even better up in the mountains (Pisgah, Du Pont, etc) I'd say go for a 6in trailbike. I think a 36mm fork and too slack Head angle might b overkill for you. Plus u can always get a shorter stem to fine tune the handling if u wish. Good luck and have fun! www.carolinabeachactionsportsteam.blogspot.com for the bike in action.  

Test ride, Test ride, Test ride  

pfox90 said: 160mm if you have a dick. Click to expand...

Everyone has their idea of what YOU should ride? Its your bike, go out and ride every bike that you can and see what you like best. I was in the same boat as you last winter here in CT-I'm guessing same type of terrain. I wanted a 4" travel bike that I could build up light, but yet with a slacker head angle. Couldnt find it, so I ended up wih a new 07 Yeti 575. A little more travel that I need, but I love having a light bike-25 lbs or so. But, in my opinion the slacker head angle is what helps me ride steeper downs with way more confidence. Good luck  

You don't need any travel. The more travel and slacker angles you have, the more you will limit your progression. If you really want to become a good bike handler, stick with less travel. If you want more comfort, go with 150. If you plan on doing bigger stunts, go with more travel and a burlier build. If you enjoy descending more than climbing, go with more travel. It all depends. You don't NEED any suspension at all.  

fotu said: 140 if you're ghey. that's how people know. Click to expand...

What setup do you recommend if I have a vagina?  

fotu said: What setup do you recommend if I have a vagina? Click to expand...

Good call. Short travel is, in my not-so-humble opinion, WAY over-rated. I got back into biking about 3-4 years ago (after several years off) with a 140mm AM bike, then bought an 8" DH bike after a local ski area decided to build some trails... and I quit riding the AM bike even at the local AM trails. The DH bike climbs fine if I keep my butt on the seat, and for everything else the extra squish just makes me happy. The bike just flows over everything, I love it. Riding with 140mm used to feel amazingly plush, but now that I'm used to 203mm at each end, 140 feels only slightly better than a hardtail. Sure, the DH setup is a little heavy, and there's one log ride that I have trouble with due to a sharp corner and a 63ish HTA... so I'm going to sell off my AM bike for an SC Bullit or other similar 7" AM setup. (And if I could find an 8" AM bike I'd do that instead of 7".) More travel = happier me.  

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Recommended minimum MTB suspension Travel (Trail & Enduro)

Looking to purchase a bike that would cover both Trail & Enduro. What would be the minimum front & rear travel recommended to cover both. Been looking at the YT Jeffsy. Got a budget of $2,500 so any other recommendations would be appreciated.

I’m on 160 front (fox36) and 140 DW link rear. 2.5WT tires.

It’s a blast for everyday trail riding and plenty for my level of enduro race skills. Wouldn’t want to line up for an XC race on this bike, but tons of fun for most everything else. Also bullet proof for regular riding which I generally prefer vs faster, lighter, more fragile.

Where do you live and plan to ride the most?

To answer your question directly though, 150mm travel up front would be my choice if I had to choose one bike with no intentions of XC racing or epic rides and leaning more towards “enduro” and occasional bike park days. With the slacker front ends these days, 160mm would be fine too. For the rear travel you can usually get by with a little less.

Consider where you do most of your riding. If in the west or in the mountains with easy access to tech terrain, definitely leans towards a little more travel. Live in the midwest but plan to travel to places with more hills on occasion, then lean towards a little less travel. I usually ride Santa Cruz, so I would choose a Bronson if I lived in a techy area or a 5010 or Hightower if I lived with less tech around.

The Jeffsy is a good choice, IMO, if you are going to frequent enduro type rides. A lot of bang for your buck with the direct-to-consumer brand. A good friend of mine, who lives in SoCal, rides the higher end version and likes it a lot. I think it covers the range of trail bike to a downhill park bike (easily handles black-rated trails). It could start to be a bit of a drag on long trail days as it would easily be too much bike for more XC trails, but it is all a trade off, and things like a tire change could help a lot for truly long days.

If you think you might do endurance rides or XC races, then it gets hard to do it all with a single bike. I currently have a 150mm travel bike (older high-end 26" that I want to replace) and a 120mm 29er, to cover all of my riding. If you forced me to get one to do it all “good enough” (including participating in XC events) then a modern 130mm 29er with two wheel/tire combos would be my choice.

Another vote for the 130mm 29er trail bike. I’m on a fuel ex8. It pedals great and rips downhill. I love the downhill, but I also have done a few xc races. It’s a bit on the heavy side for xc, but it’s ok. And it goes downhill faster on it than anyone in my category.

It shreds on flow and jump trails, it’s great in tech, but does get very bumpy in rock gardens.

If you want a do it all bike, 130mm is where it’s at. But If you definately have no interest in xc and only want to ride gravity then I’d go something bigger, I’ve ridden a trek remedy around mystic MTB park and it ripped, it pedalled almost as well uphill, definately not a problem there. But much more fun going downhill, 150mm of travel is so forgiving.

Couple of Qs:

Where do you live/ride? How are the trails? Do you travel a lot to bike places?

Do you have any other MTBs?

Do you ever plan on doing any racing with it? If so, what type?

Alu versions of the Orbea Occam or Canyon Neuron would be worth looking at…

Important note, the new 2020 Trek Fuel EX changed. It is now more Enduro focused with the long and slack trend, comes with a 140mm Fox 36 and is heavier as a result. Its not really the same poppy and snappy trail bike of old.

In some ways, it may be better for the OP goal than it used to be. Either way, just know it is a different bike now than the prior years.

SC Highball is 150/140, around your price point.

130-150 rear, 140-160 front. The trails you ride will determine if you chose on the higher vs lower end of this range.

Lots of bikes in this range. Your budget will likely rule out some (eg Yeti SB130). If you’re looking to buy new, check out the Canyon Spectral.

Thanks for pointing that out. The Fuel EX was on my short list and now I am not sure about it. I ride the relatively punchy, rooty trails of Southeast Michigan and am tired of my hardtail. I am looking for an Aluminum 29er with full suspension and on paper the Fuel EX 5 was looking really good.

The Jeffsy is the best bang for your buck. I was going to buy the 29 version and they were out. My friend who works for Rocky Mountain had a 2018 Altitude sitting around in pretty flawless shape with the MRP Ribbon fork. My lord. This thing is a blast. From DH days at Winter Park to long back country days; I do not regret it. I do have an XC bike FWIW.

In a perfect world, I’d get a downcountry bike - Something 140’ish for everyday trail riding and save the Altitude for shuttle laps and dh days

Take a look at the Canyon Neuron. 130mm front and rear, a very similar bike to the old Fuel. Also, great deals on the 2019 models now that the 2020 model is being released.

Yeah, I’m not overly pleased with Trek’s 2020 offerings.

Supercaliber is too much of a full and not enough hardtail (I like the Procaliber better and got a 2019 after seeing this)

Top Fuel is now a blended XC/Trail bike that is quite good really (but I already had a 2017 version that is the pure XC fully).

Fuel EX is now a Heavy Hitter Trail bike that flirts with Enduro (I got the 2019 EX 9.9 closeout since I wanted more of an all-around bike and don’t want the heavier build and lazier steering).

I just think Trek shifted the entire line up a half-step in the “burly scale” and kinda ruined what they had originally.

I’ve looked at the Neuron - just wish I could ride one.

Unfortunate. Many of us live in non-burly areas and still like to MTB…

Canyon has a return policy … course you won’t be able to do much more than ride around in a parking lot.

This is a great deal for top of the line spec right now:

Suspension travel: Understanding fork length and how it affects your mountain bike

Forks come in varying lengths of suspension travel and stanchion sizes, this is what they mean for your riding

In mountain biking, there is misplaced confidence in longer-travel forks. With your front wheel having to steer and balance traction on those big trail features and steep descents, the logic is often that more suspension travel is better. But is this the case?

To better understand how the suspension travel of the best mountain bike forks influences your riding and what should be best for your trails, you need to understand the relationship between terrain absorption and trail feedback.

Modern mountain bike geometries are designed explicitly around suspension travel. For example, the best XC forks for cross-country mountain bikes are short-travel forks as the trails are relatively smooth and comprise lots of climbing. They need to be light and responsive while still providing a decent range of compression.

As you move through the various types of mountain bikes, fork travel requirements change. The weight, stanchion thickness, and travel all increase to meet the demands of each discipline – and longer forks aren’t superior in every application.

Cross-country: 100-120mm travel, 30-32mm stanchion diameter

Shorter travel forks are generally aimed at cross-country mountain biking , designed to balance performance, lightweight and just enough suspension travel to help smooth out bumpy singletrack. 

Cross-country forks can work with narrower 30-32mm stanchions because the upper tubes aren’t exposed to much leverage. This helps to keep the overall fork weight down.

But why shouldn’t you fit a cross-country mountain bike , recommended for maximum fork travel of 120mm, with a 130mm fork? Isn’t that a great idea? Not really.

Any increase in fork travel will slacken the bike and shorten its reach. Slacker head angles boost confidence in steep descending terrain, but they make a mountain bike less agile at climbing technical singletrack as well as unbalancing the bike by moving the rider's weight backward. It will also raise the bottom bracket which will cause the bike to feel less planted and confident in corners.

For many years 100-120mm forks were designed either as ultralight racing components or cheap beginner bike suspension. That has changed with the popularity of downcountry and there are now 120mm forks that have much stiffer crowns.

Consider the terrain you are riding. A 100- to 120mm lightweight cross-country fork will be ideal if your trails are smooth and flowing. The shorter suspension travel gives a more responsive feel and you’ll enjoy greater trail feedback through the handlebar and grips.

Shorter suspension travel forks also bob less when climbing up steep trails in a standing position. Many short travel forks further support climbing with the addition of a lockout switch.

Trail: 120-150mm travel, 34mm stanchion diameter

The best trail mountain bike market is probably the most competitive category in mountain biking and these bikes are often ridden right up to their design capabilities.

Reasonably efficient climbers and confident descending bikes, the trail machine is a hybrid between cross-country and enduro. And as you would expect, it needs a fork with more travel and stiffness than those 100-120mm options.

There has been significant development with the Fox 34 in recent years. RockShox has reacted too with its latest Pike range, blending 35mm stanchions with low fork weight.

At 150mm of suspension travel, you are probably pushing the limits of what a 34mm stanchion can deal with, especially for aggressive trail riding. The sweet spot for suspension travel and stanchion size for trail bikes would be 130- to 140mm.

Yet again, it is a tale of less being more. If you use a 34mm stanchion fork at the upper reaches of its travel, there might be a higher risk of terrain-induced steering deflection due to flex. Those roots and rocks can ping you offline, despite being sure of your steering inputs.

Too much travel can also dull the feedback of your trail bike. We recommend that a trail fork ideally have 34mm stanchions, at 130-140mm, for a 29er - possibly, up to 150mm, for the smaller 27.5in wheel size.

As fork travel increases with trail bikes, the latitude of responsiveness from your damper becomes more complex. You will see premium trail bike forks offering high- and low-speed compression adjustment, allowing riders to balance full travel benefits on gnarly terrain without having the fork dive too much in high-speed berms. 

Enduro: 150-180mm travel, 35-38mm stanchion diameter

The fork stiffness formula is simple: when adding more suspension travel increase stanchion size.

Single-crown fork design has had to go longer, with the best enduro mountain bikes now ripping down terrain once reserved for downhill rigs. RockShox and Fox introduced 38mm stanchion single-crown forks last year, especially for the riding demands of enduro mountain biking .

Having more travel is great but potentially useless if the fork internals can’t make the best use of it. That 180mm enduro fork is pointless if it blows through its travel or is entirely unresponsive to small-bump impacts.

With 150- to 180mm single-crown forks, you don’t need a lockout control for climbing, but you want to control the multiple channels of compression and rebound. Balancing the increased leverage effect and fork dive under braking in steep terrain is the crucial enabler with long-travel single-crown forks.

As a forks suspension travel lengthens, set-up becomes crucial. This is why you'll find 150- to 180mm enduro single-crown forks with intricate compression and rebound adjusters and dials. These allow riders to make the best of all that travel by configuring the damping circuits and rebound to work across all terrain.

A decade ago, the idea of a 180mm single-crown fork that could provide an adequate compression platform for pedaling uphill was unfathomable. But today’s big-hitting 38mm single-crown forks are hugely adaptable, giving riders all the precise cornering support and cushioning when landing those huge drops or landings.

Downhill: 180-200mm travel, 40mm stanchion diameter

These are the largest forks you can buy with the most suspension travel and a dual-crown design to cushion the rider from the huge, repeated impacts when riding the most technically demanding descents possible.

With the amount of leverage involved at 200mm of travel, and considering how slack the best downhill mountain bikes are, the dual-crown design is crucial. There would be enormous flex issues if you were to produce a single-crown fork at 200mm of travel and ride it down very steep and technical terrain.

Downhill riders are less bothered by weight or climbing efficiency. This frees engineers to focus all their resources on making the stiffest structure containing sophisticated internals and valving.

The speeds that downhill bikes roll over highly technical terrain require exceptional torsional stiffness at the axle to prevent riders from being deflected off-line and crashing. That dual-crown structure increases the stiffness of these long-travel forks, although steering angle is reduced, at very low speeds.

Dual-crown forks are at the complete opposite spectrum of those short-travel,100-120mm forks, with nearly rigid lockout control. Downhill mountain biking is solely about descending, with huge dampers that react intuitively to terrain impacts and help maintain the front tire's contact with the ground when cornering and braking.

• Suspension 101 : Everything you need to know about your mountain bike suspension dials
• How to adjust mountain bike suspension

Lance Branquinho is a Namibian-born journalist who graduated to mountain biking after injuries curtailed his trail running. He has a weakness for British steel hardtails, especially those which only run a single gear. As well as Bike Perfect , Lance has written for MBR.com , Off-Road.cc and Cycling News.

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How Much Travel Do You Need?

Simple question. Tough answer.

These days it’s near impossible to go to a bike shop and leave with a bad bike. The research, development and tech in modern mountain bikes is very impressive. They’re way more capable than bikes from even five years ago. It becomes a blessing and a curse. With literally hundreds of solid options, the difficulty becomes deciding which style of bike is best for you. Well, consider this the ultimate, be-all and end-all, no questions asked, 100% scientific, authoritative guide to helping you find your next bike.

Here’s how our test went. We picked three different styles of bikes within the broader “trail bike” category (Trail meaning the bike pedals uphill, rides downhill and isn’t strictly designed for XC or DH racing. You know, the kind 95% of us ride.) Within the “Trail” category we broke it down further into just plain old Trail, All Mountain and Enduro. We chose to keep all of the bikes within the same brand to eliminate differences in suspension design and to minimize differences in geometry. We wanted this test to be all about the amount of suspension rather than geometry or platform. We chose the Santa Cruz Tallboy (Trail), Santa Cruz Hightower (All Mountain) and the Santa Cruz Megatower (Enduro) for our test. All three of our test rigs had the same level of build kit, carbon Reserve wheels and surprisingly very similar geometry. The biggest differentiator was how much travel each bike had. The Tallboy comes with 120mm out back paired to a 130mm fork, the Hightower is 140mm rear and 150mm front, while the Megatower packs a punch at 160mm front and back. Head tube angles across all three bikes only varied by 0.5 degrees.

We loaded all the bikes into the shop van and hit the hills. We rode each bike on three different trails to get a good idea of how they all compare on a wide variety of terrain. Our test climb lasted about 15 minutes and had a little bit of everything. It had fast bits, steep bits, rocky bits, loose bits and paved road bits — that’s a lot of bits. We also rode a flow trail with berms, jumps and rollers. The final trail we rode really pushed some limits. It was steep and rooty with a handful of drops and loose flat corners. The trails we tested gave us a good idea of how each bike feels on an “everyday” ride as well as a ride that might be above your pay grade.

Let’s get down to the nitty gritty. How Much Travel Do You Need?

Conor – This went about as expected. We started the test on the enduro bikes while our legs were fresh. The Megatower climbed well enough. The steep seat tube kept my weight over the pedals and not way off the back of the bike. It had gobs of traction for the looser pitches of the climb. It felt heavy and I spent quite a bit of the climb in the easiest gear just to keep the wheels spinning. Enduro bikes are meant to be able to get you up a hill without too much fuss, but they really put an emphasis on descending. The geometry is designed to be as stable as possible down rough, steep terrain. This same geometry is what makes the bike sit back and wander up steep climbs. I own an enduro bike so I’m very familiar with how they climb. They’re not amazing, but they will do the job. I’m still able to put in big days in the mountains without being completely gassed by the end.

Brock – The enduro bike climbed well enough. Nobody ever buys an enduro bike because they’re wanting to climb a lot. My idea of riding an enduro bike is to get me to the top without hike-a-biking a DH sled. The modern geometry on this bike felt really good on the climbs, both the long, drawn-out climbs, and the short-punchy ones. The seat tube angle kept me right over the top of the bike, and I never felt like I was losing traction or working harder than I needed to be. The only noticeable downside was that I was pushing a bit of extra weight being on the enduro bike. Thanks to the Eagle gearing and the 50 tooth “granny gear,” I never had to walk this bike.

Conor – We then moved on to the all mountain bike. The Santa Cruz Hightower felt apparently lighter and snappier from the get go. It sagged into its travel less and provided a snappier ride. Sitting higher in the travel, my weight was more centered on the bike. The front wheel wandered less and tracked a straighter line when things got steep. I felt faster even though this was our second lap up the hill. All mountain bikes are designed to take you anywhere on the mountain. They need to be able to go uphill, downhill and just about anywhere. Our all mountain test bike was still a tad heavy and a little more focused on downhill performance.

Brock – After jumping onto the all mountain bike, I was really glad that Conor had chosen to ride the enduro bikes first. The difference in weight, even just being a few pounds, felt so much better to climb on. I rarely used the “granny gear” on this bike, even on the long section of pavement after getting off the dirt. It was noticeably easier to get up and over the rough, rooty sections of the climb without getting hung up, or feeling like you were exerting every last bit of energy. Overall, it felt a lot more efficient, and I felt better on this bike at the top of the hill.

Conor – Finally, moving on to the trail bike. The Tallboy made the climb a piece of cake. Again the difference in weight was rather apparent. The trail bike felt much more responsive than the other two. It accelerated quicker, tracked the straightest line no matter how steep the climb and encouraged us to push the pace a little. No Eagle gear moseying here.

Brock – The same feeling going from the enduro bike to the all mountain bike was there again changing from the all mountain to the trail bike. A lighter feel, along with more efficient pedaling urged me to thank Conor, yet again, for picking the enduro bike first, and leaving me on the trail bike to repeat the climb for the third time. Not only was it lighter than the all mountain bike, but the feeling of it being snappier was evident as well. One thing I did notice about the shorter travel in the rough sections of the climb was that it would get hung up a bit more than the longer travel bikes, meaning that momentum would get robbed by roots and rocky sections on the punchy climbs. The fix for this was better line choice, or just putting down a bit more power to push through. Again, even more so than the all mountain bike, I was using less low gears on this bike, which I bring up because this was the third time climbing within about an hour or two, and fatigue was setting in. I felt like I might just keep pedaling all day on this bike.

Our times for the ride confirmed how we felt on each of the bikes. The trail bike was the fastest while the enduro was the slowest with the all mountain bike falling somewhere in the middle.

Let the fun begin. How Much Travel Do You Need?

Conor – First up is the enduro bike — fast, confident, grippy and a heck of a lot of fun. This is where Brock and I started to vary in our opinions about the bikes. Personally, I loved the enduro bike on this trail. I was able to push harder into corners, overshoot jumps and barely even feel it and hit the drops without slowing down. I thoroughly enjoyed the ride. I did notice the Megatower felt a little sluggish out of the tighter corners compared to the other two bikes. It wallowed a bit under heavy pedaling efforts too. Overall, the enduro bike felt really fast but at the same time very controlled, two things that don’t always go hand in hand.

Brock – As we began our descent on the enduro bikes, my overall thought was that the enduro bike felt long and that I didn’t need it on the flow trail we had chosen. It felt like it needed to be manhandled through the tighter corners, and I didn’t feel much of a benefit except where there were sections that I carried a bit more speed than I probably should have. In the moments of misjudgment on my part, I was grateful to be on a longer travel bike that soaked it up. One in particular was a blind drop that I picked a bad line, landed further out than desired, putting me off the trail. In this situation, I think that the extra travel made up the difference of getting bounced off the bike, or recovering and riding away. In the rougher sections near the bottom, the enduro bike seemed to gain speed through the rock gardens, but lose speed in the tighter corners.

Conor – The all mountain bike was a good mix of the other two. It instilled more confidence than the trail bike without being sluggish. It had more “pop” than the Megatower but not as much as the Tallboy. The tires felt gripper and more substantial. The Hightower was a little easier to get around a corner than the enduro bike. The shorter wheelbase made the tighter section at the bottom of the trail much easier to navigate. It got back up to speed faster after a corner as well. If your trails are really tight but still difficult and rocky, the all mountain bike might be a better option than a full blown enduro rig. I was slowest on the all mountain bike, however. I felt the Hightower didn’t take enough of the “monster truck” factor from the Megatower to be fast in the rocks, but it didn’t take enough of the fast, zippy nature of the Tallboy in the corners and rollers. Or at least that’s the only way I can justify it.

Brock – I immediately felt better going downhill on the all mountain bike. It was so much easier to maneuver and plant exactly where I wanted on the trail, which I credit to the shorter wheel base, and lighter weight. The bike felt like it was encouraging me to pedal out of the corners and make extra speed in the sections where I didn’t feel comfortable on the enduro bike. Come time for the rough stuff, the bike had plenty of travel to not feel much of an effect, and keep the speeds high. When it got really rough, I could always preload the suspension, and jump over the top of it. Something that wasn’t there on the enduro bike because I felt like it needed to just plow through it. The all mountain bike felt overall more playful than the enduro bike on this trail.

Conor – Lastly the trail bike — or should we call it the skateboard with two wheels. The trail bike liked to play and pop. It felt very quick in and out of the corners. The Tallboy gives you the feeling that you’re not wasting any energy pushing through the travel. In other words, when you pump to gain speed, all of your energy is translated into making the bike go faster. Same goes for pedaling back up to speed out of a corner. Nothing is wasted. The trail bike accelerated very quickly. While the top speeds were slower, on a twisty trail like the one we rode, the maneuverable nature of the bike can bring up your average speeds resulting in a faster run. I really enjoyed the ride quality of the trail bike. Instead of my usual style (death-gripping the bars, closing my eyes and hoping I don’t run into something) I was forced to slow down a bit. Going slower I was really able to focus more on having fun, rather than being fast. It’s a style of riding I’m really starting to enjoy.

Brock – Since I used the word “playful” for the all mountain bike on this trail, I think I’d use some sort of descriptive word to emphasize the playfulness on the trail bike — super playful, extra playful, extremely playful — something like that. Or maybe I say, “grinningly playful” to put it into perspective for those who ride and get it — it was so good. Pushing it into corners, jumping over things, pulling into a manual through rough stuff, or flat stuff, or just any stuff, this bike was rad. I’m pretty sure after riding this I started running through some financial possibilities to purchase this bike and bring it home. It was at home on a fast flow trail, and made me want to ride laps over and over on it. This bike got pushed hard, and responded well. I did find the limit of it a time or two, and just kept riding. It was really surprising at how capable a short travel bike can be, and how much fun it amounts to.

Watch the full flow trail runs –

Things are getting serious now. How much travel do you need?

Conor – We saved the hardest trail of the day for last. This descent had enough roots to last a lifetime, steep skidder sections and plenty of trees to narrowly dodge… or hit. The enduro bike obviously ate it up. It really came into its element on the tough descent. The Megatower didn’t get hung up in the roots, in fact it seemed to just pick up speed. The rear end moved up and out of the way with ease. The steeps didn’t make the bike feel outgunned and the chunky ledges and drops didn’t get the bike bouncing and bucking around. I had the most fun during the entire day on this trail on this bike. Pushing into root littered corners at high speed is my kind of fun. I liked the way the bike stayed composed in sections where I started losing control of the other bikes. The bumps don’t disappear (that wouldn’t be any fun) rather they just feel inconsequential. I knew the trail was bumpy, I could feel it, but it didn’t seem to matter. I didn’t feel the need to grab the brakes. The bike almost dared me to see if I could go faster, push harder into a corner or pull up for a big double. My time reflected the amount of fun I was having.

Brock – The enduro bike felt like this tech trail was made for it. Or the trail felt like it was made for the enduro bike. Either way, you get the point. It ate up the steep rooty section at the top as if they weren’t there, and helped me feel confident maintaining and gaining speed through drops and steep sections. Although my time is not on track with how I felt, this was the bike I’d choose for this type of trail. The problem was, before riding this, I pushed one of the other bikes a bit harder than I should have, and got the scare of my life. This caused some hesitation on the enduro bike so I wouldn’t have a repeat of the previous run, or get bucked off the bike. My complaints of the bike being too much, or overkill on the flow trail, were nowhere to be found on this trail.

Conor – The all mountain bike handled the tough descent as you would hope. It didn’t feel quite as good as the enduro bike, but it gave me enough confidence to let loose. Compared to the Megatower, the back end felt a little more chattery and less composed in the high speed roots. The bike bounced around a little more and I found myself grabbing brakes where I didn’t need to on the enduro bike. All the drops and steep sections felt great though — there was plenty of travel to remain in control. There was enough grip for the dusty conditions and cornering felt fast.

Brock – The all mountain bike handled everything I threw at it on the tech trail, until I went too big on a drop and scared myself into grabbing the brakes before the next drop and sliding out, as mentioned above. I guess we could say I felt over confident, and pushed it too hard. Since I didn’t technically go down, I’d say pushing it too hard and finding the limits is a good thing, especially on a trail like this. The bike felt nimble, and never felt under-gunned through the roughest parts, partly due to the aggressive geometry, but also because it had just enough travel to get the job done.

Conor – The trail bike was a bit of a surprise. It handled the roots fairly well and really only felt out of its element when things got steep. The bike bucked around quite a bit more than the other two. I was on the brakes more while aboard the Tallboy. I didn’t have the same confidence as with the other bikes. The ragged edge felt quite a bit closer and at one point I lost control of the bike and hit a tree. In order to enjoy this trail on the trail bike, I had to slow down and ride a little differently. Instead of no-braking a section and plowing into everything in my way, I’d focus more on staying on a good line and hitting my braking points.

Brock – The trail bike again was grinningly fun. Before riding this bike down this particular trail, it would have never crossed my mind to take a 120mm bike down such a rowdy trail. Instead I would have opted for a longer travel bike, or a different trail. However, I would gladly ride this bike any day of the week back down this trail. It felt confident and playful throughout the whole ride. Obviously in the real rough and steep stuff, things got a bit dicey, but never too much to scare or intimidate me. If anything, I’d say that on this bike, you just feel the trail a bit more than on the longer bikes.

Watch the full tech trail runs –

Brock – The enduro bike was great on the tech trail, and not my favorite on the flow trail. It’s a lot of bike. Its job is to get you to the top eventually, and have a rad time coming back down. It’s happiest finding the roughest bits of trail to pilot it down, and encourages that type of riding. It’s also good at making up the differences and shortcomings of the rider. If you like to smash and bash, and perhaps need some help when things get a little out of control, this bike may be for you.

My pick out of the three bikes would be the all mountain bike. It’s a bike that’s great at pedaling mellow trails and still having a good time, or taking a shuttle to the top and riding down the gnarliest trail you can find. It’s well rounded in everything that you could do with it. The all mountain bike made me think of long days on Park City trails where I just start pedaling without an end goal in mind and end up getting lost and finding my way back to the parking lot with 30-40 miles on the odometer for the day. The long days up, across, and back down is what this bike is ideal for in my eyes. This bike is going to make a great bike for the rider that does all of the above, and needs just one bike to do it all.

The trail bike might have the most fun factor of the three. If we timed average time smiling or giggling on the bike, this would win. If you’re not the rider to go regularly push yourself on really steep trails all the time, this could be the one. If you’re out for a good time, no matter the terrain or the people you’re with, and occasionally like to get outside of your comfort zone, this could also be the bike to handle it all. It’s been dubbed the downhiller’s XC bike, and since we all love to go downhill at some point, I don’t think I could agree more.

Conor – Which bike would I pick? Short answer, I’d take the enduro bike all day. What can I say? I’m a long travel kind of guy. I like that it has your back no matter how rowdy things get. You can always rely on the bike to get you out of a spicy situation. I’m happy enough to take a penalty on the climbs to get that extra downhill performance. I don’t feel like there is such a thing as “too much travel.” Feel like your bike is too big? Ride it faster, brake less, hit jumps bigger and smash every rock in sight. I can see the advantages to shorter travel bikes, but they don’t align with my priorities very well. If you want to hit hard trails, or hate the feeling of being outgunned, an enduro bike is going to be a good choice for you. It’s got your back in every situation.

The all mountain bike felt too much like a fence sitter to me. I want a bike that can go mach burrito down a nasty trail, or I want a bike that is just down to take it easy, hit all the jumps and have a good time. For me the all mountain bike doesn’t take enough of the strengths from the enduro or trail categories to really shine. My times on the day reflect that pretty well. We didn’t have a way to measure “good times” but the hootin’ and hollerin’ was more subdued aboard the all mountain bike. And, don’t take this as me hating on the Santa Cruz Hightower. I think it makes an excellent all mountain bike. The category just isn’t for me. I think someone who doesn’t just ride buffed out singletrack, but isn’t willing to give up that extra edge of climbing performance would really enjoy an all mountain bike. I can also see people who like to ride hard trails at slower speeds really liking this category too.

The trail bike gave me a run for the money. I had a heck of a good time looking for features to hit, jumps to jump and corners to smash. It’s a riding style I’m not as used to but it’s really starting to grow on me. I could see myself buying a short travel trail bike in the future. Who knows, maybe it will even replace my long-travel squishy bike one day. I like the way these shorter travel bikes handle and the benefits can’t be ignored. For the time being though, they just don’t line up as well with the terrain I like to ride. If you like riding cruiser singletrack and the occasional rugged trail, a trail bike would be an excellent option.

Hopefully this article and series of videos helps you decide which style of bike is best for you. If you’re interested in any of the bikes we rode in our test, we have all of them in our demo fleet. If you want to try something other than a Santa Cruz demo, we have a ton of other bikes. Check out the whole list of demo bikes here .

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One response to “how much travel do you need”.

Nice summary. There is undeniable sex appeal for the longer travel bikes, and one might like to have more “just in case”. At the end of the day, you have to know a couple of things: where you will be riding mostly and your skill level. I agonized over choosing between an Ibis Ripley and Ripmo. I finally opted for the Ripley and it is a friggin’ blast. I still window shop the Ripmo, but I figure that can wait until I can really make the Ripley sail. It doesn’t bottom out on 4 foot drops and it is a rocket on smoother flow trails. I am also one of those oddballs that enjoys the challenges of climbing something a little on the technical side.

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How much suspension travel do you need?

Deciding on the correct amount of travel can make or break a ride. Too much and your bike makes your bike feel lethargic and uninspiring on the flat stuff. Too little travel and it may result in a bike that isn’t up to the level of your riding. In this blog we are talking about travel and how it will affect your ride.   

What is Travel?

More travel often leads to increased traction and confidence when travelling down hill through crazy terrain at the speed of sound.  .

Short Travel?

On flatter, smoother trails, smaller travel bikes can hold speed easier and react more to pumping through rollers.  .

While they are still agile compared to a big travel bike, the extra 20mm of travel compared to an XC bike can help a rider in the “uh oh” moments.  

Long travel

Long travel bikes with 160-180mm of travel are the pinnacle of going downhill fast, while still being able to climb up a mountain. With tonnes of traction, travel to take the big hits and plenty of cushion to cover up over ambitious lines, a rider's confidence goes through the roof. The faster a bike hits a rock, root or whatever is in front of the bike, the more travel the bike will use. More travel allows the wheel to move over bigger obstacles without rider input.  

With tonnes of traction, travel to take the big hits and plenty of cushion to cover up over ambitious lines, a rider's confidence goes through the roof .  

Riders will experience less fatigue as there is less rider input to go fast. The downside to more travel is the bikes can feel lethargic under power or rider input. Cornering and pumping requires more body language to gain speed. Climbing is a challenge due to extra weight and the suspension absorbing pedal power. All of this is made up for when you point down a hill and can't wipe the smile off your face. Get on your big travel bike now by clicking here .  

Downhill  

If you have shuttles or chair lifts in your area and want to go as fast as possible back down, this amount of travel is perfect for you.  .

190-200mm of travel is for pure downhill speed. Pedaling efficiency is terrible for getting up a hill. The wheels move up and over obstacles easily and the rider can push harder on the downs. There is tonnes of traction for braking and changing direction even on the craziest trails. If you have shuttles or chair lifts in your area and want to go as fast as possible back down, this amount of travel is perfect for you. Pure race bikes have this much travel as they provide maximum confidence at speed down a hill. As they are a specialist bike there are a limited number of riders that actually require these bikes.  

Here at Bikes Online we find that choosing a bike with the least amount of travel for your required terrain will often lead to the best all round package.  

If you are focused on efficiency, agility and ride with a lot of rider input, smaller travel bikes are for you. If you are charging hard and racing down hills then long travel or dh bikes are for you. Riders with more skill and abilities can often benefit from the efficiency of a mid travel bike down hill but fatigue is increased due to more rider input. Bigger travel bikes require more input to change direction or maneuver so it benefits a relaxed riding style. More travel can also mask mistakes and inspire confidence for beginner riders going downhill. Just remember that more travel isn't always better, here at Bikes Online we find that choosing a bike with the least amount of travel for your required terrain will often lead to the best all round package. If you want to learn more about what bike suits you, reach out to our team or read through our educational blog posts.  

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How much travel do I NEED? 120 vs 140/150

Cool Features

120 mm Vs. 140 mm Travel (Is There a Big Difference?)

When I decided to go from a hardtail to a full suspension I was really confused about how much of a difference suspension travel makes. So I ended up spending weeks comparing different bikes and always consulting myself with my friends from the competitive scene ( yes, I know I was one of the lucky ones because I know many pro mountain bikers).

The 140 mm travel bike is much better on technical trails filled with big roots, rock gardens, and big drops but if you are a cross-country rider the 120 mm bike will be much more suited for you because it will climb better and on smooth trails will be faster.

Of course, there is much more to discuss on this matter so next, we will examine all the advantages of each bike and we will see where they truly shine. By the end of this article, you will have a better understanding of the difference between the two bikes and you can make an informed decision on which bike will suit you better.

Advantages of 120 mm Travel Over 140 mm Travel Bikes

Let us examine all the notable advantages of a 120 mm bike compared to a 140 mm bike:

• Better at stiff climbs : a 120 mm bike will be better at climbing stiff hills because it has a less slacked head tube angle,
• Better for XC : because a 120 mm bike is better for climbing and it is lighter you will be faster on XC trails,
• Eats up less pedaling power: a smaller suspension will eat less of your pedaling power,
• More suited for all-day long rides : if you like to go for long adventures the responsiveness and the better power transmission of the 120 mm bike will help you to maintain your stamina,
• Enough for untimed, relaxed trail riding : if you don’t care for every second lost on the trails you can explore nature while having a relaxed trail ride, and if you encounter bigger drops or obstacles go around them.

As you can see 120 mm bikes are capable machines that truly shine when it comes to stiff climbs, but probably the best advantage of short travel bikes is that more of your pedaling power is transmitted to the back wheel.

Sometimes the 140 mm bike will feel a bit sluggish on a smooth trail compared to the 120 mm. So if you are a cross-country rider or you just want to enjoy occasional rides on the trails near you then a 120 mm bike wood be the choice for you.

Advantages of 140 mm Travel Over 120 mm Travel Bikes

Let us examine all the notable advantages of a 140 mm bike compared to a 120 mm bike:

• Slacker: the 140 mm is more slacker because it has a longer travel fork, this makes it safer on technical descents,
• Confidence builder: the increased suspension travel will give you a confidence boost because it is more stable riding over bigger obstacles,
• Better for trail riding: a 140 mm bike will handle even the biggest obstacles that you can find on the trails, while the 120 mm bike may feel underbiked sometimes,
• More adrenaline: you can ride it more aggressively even if the terrain becomes more technical,
• More capable on descents: the most important advantage of a 140 mm bike over a 120 mm bike is its increased downhill capabilities, the more suspension travel you have the faster the better your bike will handle stiff descents,
• Bigger drops: a 140 mm bike will be capable of handling much bigger drops than a 120 mm bike.

A 140 mm bike will be better suited for more experienced trail riders because it will allow them to maintain speed over more technical terrain and you can ride over bigger obstacles more easily, 1.4” obstacles are harder to ride over on a 120 mm bike while on a 140 mm bike you can fly over them if you have the necessary skill level.

So if you are a more experienced rider that wants to enjoy the downhill portions of your ride and have the necessary skill level to truly push a 140 mm bike (downhill and technical trails) over rock gardens, big tree roots and you enjoy landing those big drops than a 140 mm bike is for you.

Is 120 mm Enough for Trail Riding? (Or Do I Need 140 mm)

120 mm is enough for trail riding if you aren’t too competitive, for untimed rides a 120mm bike is ok but if you want to brag to your friends about your trail performance you need a longer travel bike.

If you time two riders (at similar skill levels) on technical trails but with different bikes, one on a 120 mm and one on a 140 mm almost always the rider with the longer travel bike will come on top.

A 120 mm bike will make you use the brakes much more often and more aggressively than a 140 mm bike will when you encounter obstacles bigger than 1.4″.

If you want to perform bigger drops (2 feet+) you will easily bottom out the 120 mm bike and you will feel the need to upgrade. If you want to know if bottoming out your suspension is bad I encourage you to read this article.

Is 120 mm Travel Good for XC?

A 120 mm is a good bike for XC on the more technical trails but for competitions organized on smooth trails a 100 mm hardtail will be the better option.

Not all XC trails are the same, some are on the technical side and almost resemble trail riding, for these trails a 120 mm XC bike will be the best option.

Now you can see that some professional XC racers will have two bikes, a hardtail for less technical trails, and a full suspension for the more technical ones.

A 120 mm XC bike will be the perfect bike to tackle technical climbs filled with roots and rocks but will fall behind a 100mm hardtail on smoother climbs.

If you don’t want to compete and you ride cross-country just for fun then a 120mm full-suspension will be the best choice because you will be able to enjoy technical and non-technical trails. You will not be affected by losing a couple of seconds on a smooth trail because you have too much suspension.

I think that by now it becomes obvious to you which one of the two bikes better suits your needs.

If you want to smash big obstacles at high speed on technical trails then a 140mm bike is for you but if you are a cross-country rider then it is obvious that a 120mm bike is the choice.

For casual trail riders that aren’t too concerned with the competitive side and are ok taking it slower on technical descents, a 120mm bike will be just fine.

Keep in mind that you need to be a good mountain biker to be able to push a 120mm bike to its limits, so if you are a beginner rider even a 100mm bike can be more than you really need.

Isac Vasile Claudiu

I started mountain biking many years ago to improve my overall health state. After my first ride, I fell in love with the sport. Now I spend dozens of hours a week researching and training to compete in local XC and Enduro events.

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Best Trail & All-Mountain Bikes (130-160 mm travel)

Mid-travel full-suspension MTBs tend to cover a broader spectrum of mountain biking applications than other more specific MTB styles. With front and rear travel in the 130mm to 160mm range, these mountain bikes are usually classed as trail or all-mountain bikes.

These bikes are able to handle relatively mountainous conditions like rocky trails and singletracks but are less agile on descents than dedicated downhill MTBs. The suspension is usually just tight enough that it can still swallow up obstacles and vibration without losing too much speed and momentum while having a comfortable geometry to climb as well.

Check out the best models we recommend!

• You may also like: Best Full-Suspension Mountain Bikes

Best Full-Suspension Trail & All-Mountain Bikes

1 . ghost – riot am essential.

MSRP: $3,300 REI.com

The mighty Ghost Riot AM Essential stands out for its versatility and surprisingly high component level given the price.

Ghost chose a reliable RockShox Deluxe Select+ shock and FS-35 Silver fork, each with 160mm travel, modern trail bike geometry, and a one-piece rear triangle and rocker link that enhances stiffness and power transfer. 

The Riot AM Essentail is worthy of consideration for anyone looking for a bike made by a reliable brand with solid componentry. However, the downside of this bike is that the Shimano BR-MT500 brakeset with 180mm rotors isn’t powerful enough. 

• Drivetrain: Shimano Deore/SLX 12-speed, 10-51t
• Shock : 160mm travel RockShox Deluxe Select+
• Fork : 160mm RockShox FS-35 Silver
• Tires: Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5″/DHR 2.4″ EXO+ 

2 . Ibis Ripmo SLX

MSRP: $6,699

The new Ibis Ripmo SLX is one of the best trail mountain bikes on the market today, built around a premium full carbon frame with internal cabling and 2.6″ tire clearance.

It features a Shimano SLX 12-speed drivetrain with SLX M7120 hydraulic disc brakes and 160mm and 147mm DW-Link suspension. 

With high travel suspension, the Ibis Ripmo is clearly intended for rougher terrain than most trail bikes. So lower the dropper post and charge down steep declines with stability and confidence, knowing the Maxxis Assegai 2.5″ EXO+ tires have your back.

• Frame: Carbon
• Fork : 160mm, Fox Float Factory 38
• Shock : 147mm Fox Float Factory X2
• Drivetrain: Shimano SLX 12-speed

Buy on Mike's Bikes

3 . Cannondale – Moterra Neo 4

Best all-around e-mountain bike by a well-known bike brand

MSRP: $5,900 REI

Cannondale’s Moterra Neo 4 delivers an impressive combination of smart design, modern technology, and carefully chosen components.

The progressive geometry is low on the ground with a long wheelbase, steep seat tube, and slack head angle. This makes for a stable and comfortable ride on chunky descents.

Travel is at 150mm front and rear. This makes the Moterra Neo 4 an ideal enduro bike, best for charging down singletrack and through rock gardens. The RockShox suspension and SRAM SX groupset are solid choices, with Cannondale using its own in-house handlebar and stem.

• Fork : 150mm, RockShox Recon RL Silver 
• Shock : 150mm, RockShox Deluxe Select R
• SmartForm C2 Aluminum

4 . Yeti – SB130 CLR Factory (Lunch Ride)

MSRP: $7,400 Jenson USA

This top-quality, versatile carbon all-mountain bike from Yeti will take you anywhere you want to go. Whether attacking flat desert terrain or rocky mountain passes, you’ll find the SB130 29er adapts to whatever you throw at it.

The C-Series Lunch Ride version of the Yeti SB130 features more capable geometry, tires, and longer-travel suspension.

With Yeti’s Switch Infinity suspension platform, this bike has super efficient pedaling and an almost bottomless feel.  

Some standout components include the Fox Factory Float X 147mm shock, Factory 36 160mm travel fork, Fox Transfer Dropper, SRAM Code R 4-Piston, and Maxxis Assegai 2.5″ EXO+ and Minion DHRII 2.4″ EXO+ tires. 

• Fork : Fox Performance 36 160mm travel
• Shock : Fox Performance Float X 147mm
• Drivetrain: SRAM GX Eagle 12-speed
• Frame: Carbon C-Series

Buy from Jenson USA

5 . Santa Cruz – Hightower 2

MSRP: $5,499 Evo.com

The Santa Cruz Hightower fits the needs of an advanced mountain biker and is one of the best-rated mountain bikes for trail riding.

The Hightower comes in aluminum or carbon frame versions, with SRAM gears, Maxxis tires, and high-quality suspension. The Hightower is on our list as it is considered one of the more capable bikes in its category.

The Hightower C R Kit features a carbon frame with VPP suspension and flip-chip tuning. It has 150mm of front travel on the Fox Yari RC and 145mm on the rear with a Fox Float DPS Performance shock.

• Fork : 150mm, Fox Yari RC
• Shock : 145mm, Fox Float DPS Performance shock
• Drivetrain: SRAM NX Eagle
• Frame: Carbon fiber

Buy on Evo.com

6 . Niner – RIP 9 RDO 2-Star

MSRP: $4,799 Jenson USA

The Niner RDO 2-Star is a high-performance trail 29er with a mid-range price. It comes packed with excellent technology like CVA suspension, full-sleeve internal cable routing, and an SRAM SX Eagle 12-speed drivetrain.

The RDO Carbon frame uses progressive and adjustable geometry that can handle a huge variety of trail scenarios. With 140mm of rear Fox Float X Performance EVOL 2 shock combined with a Fox 36 Float Rhythm fork the RIP 9 RDO 2-Star is the perfect bike for charging along singletrack and bouncing over rock gardens.

• Fork : Fox 36 Float Rhythm 150mm
• Shock: Fox Float X Performance EVOL 2 140mm
• Drivetrain: SRAM SX Eagle
• Frame: RDO Carbon

Buy on Jenson USA

7 . Juliana – Furtado

MSRP: $5,799 Mike’s Bikes

Juliana is one of the top mountain bike brands for women, having developed the first female-specific MTB back in 1999. The new 27.5″ Furtado is a carbon full-suspension trail bike with lower link suspension for better traction and a low center of gravity for stability. It’s built supreme maneuverability on all types of off-road terrain, whether you’re going downhill or uphill.

The Furtado benefits from RockShox Super Deluxe Select+ shock with a RockShox Pike Select+ fork that provides 140mm of travel. Combine this with SRAM G2 R hydraulic disc brakes and Maxxis Minion DHR 2.4″ tires and you get a MTB that closely resembles the excellent Santa Cruz Hightower.

• Fork : 140m, RockShox Pike Select+ 
• Shock : 130mm RockShox Super Deluxe Select+
• SRAM GX Eagle
• Carbon C frame

Buy from Mike's Bikes

8 . Revel – Rascal XT

MSRP: $7,199 evo.com

For pro-level competitive riders, Revel mountain bikes have created the Rascal: a full carbon dream team of killer components and groundbreaking technology. For maximum pedaling efficiency, the Rascal’s Japanese Toray fiber frame utilizes the Canfield Balance Formula (CBF) to focus 100% of your power into the chainring, providing you with solid, stable speed over any terrain.

Add a RockShox Super Deluxe Ultimate shock and a Pike Ultimate fork, and the ground seems to melt away below while you float around corners and over obstacles with ease. This is all driven by Shimano’s podium-winning XT M8100 drivetrain and controlled by the solid XT 8120 hydraulic braking system. For the trail, all-mountain, or even enduro, you’ll struggle to find a better MTB than the Revel Rascal.

• Fork: 140mm Fox Float 36 Factory
• Rear Shock : 130mm RockShox Super Deluxe Ultimate
• Carbon fiber

Buy on evo.com

9 . Marin – Alpine Trail Carbon 2

MSRP: $4,499 Jenson USA

Marin Bikes is a renowned mountain bike brand for those who like affordability and reliability from a MTB company.

The Alpine Trail Carbon 2 is the premium model of this 29er series, offering excellent climbing and descending abilities in one package.

Quality components include a 12-speed Shimano SLX M7100 groupset, a Fox 38 Performance Elite, 160mm fork, a 150mm Float X Performance shock, and Maxxis Assegai 2.5″ Maxx Terra/Assegai 2.5″ Maxx Grip tires. 

With Marin’s proprietary MultiTrac suspension, you get a balanced platform that improves efficiency and bottom-out control simultaneously. When the aggressive geometry of the Alpine Trail is combined with high travel suspension, it makes for an adaptable all-mountain bike that can tackle every kind of ride.

• Fork : Fox 38 Performance Elite 160mm
• Rear Shock : Fox Float X Performance 150mm
• Frame: Carbon fiber front triangle, alloy rear triangle

10 . Transition – Sentinel X01

MSRP: $5,250 evo.com

This 29″ beast from Transition bikes pairs 150mm of rear with 160mm of front travel, putting it on the high-end of mid-travel MTBs. You’ll feel just as comfortable hitting jumps or tackling steep drops with this bike, as you will charging over rock gardens and along a single track.

It’s the perfect all-rounder and it comes in a range of builds, with drivetrains ranging from SRAM NX Eagle and Shimano Deore XT to the GX Eagle and SRAM’s top-quality X01. The top range X01 combines Fox Float suspension with SRAM Code RSC disc brakes, leaving you with nothing but confidence as the mountainside blurs past beneath you.

• Fork : 160mm, Fox Float 36 Grip 2 Factory
• Rear Shock : Fox Float X2 Factory 2-Position
• SRAM X01 Eagle

11 . Orbea – Occam H30

MSRP: $2.999 Jenson USA

The Orbea Occam is a high-performance MTB for a relatively low price, considering it boasts a hydroformed aluminum with a Shimano Deore groupset and high-quality suspension. You even get an OC MC20 dropper post and internal cable routing.

The lightweight setup makes for easy, all-day riding, and with 140mm of front and rear travel you can take on a variety of terrain. A broad gearing range takes the pain out of uphills, and solid Shimano hydraulic brakes make steep descents easy to control.

• Fork: 140mm, Marzocchi Bomber Z2
• Rear Shock : 140mm, Fox Float DPS Performance
• Shimano Deore 1×12-speed

Buy on JensonUSA.com

12 . Rocky Mountain – Instinct Carbon 50

MSRP: $5,809 Jenson USA

For a top-quality and highly versatile all-mountain bike, look no further than the Rocky Mountain Instinct Carbon 50, with a Smoothwall carbon frame built to accommodate 29″ wheels.

Sure, it’s not the cheapest on the market, but with a 1×12 Shimano XT drivetrain and SLX 4-piston hydraulic brakes, we’d expect nothing less.

The lightweight frame uses Rocky Mountain’s RIDE-9 adjustable geometry, progressive sizing, and high-end suspension components for a premium trail feel. 

Highlights of this bike include the Fox 36 Float Performance 150mm fork, Fox Float DPS Performance 140mm shock, Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5 and DHR II  MaxxTerra EXO+ tires, and the smooth shifting XT drivetrain. 

• Fork : 150mm, Fox 36 Float Performance
• Rear Shock : 140mm, Fox Float DPS Performance 
• Drivetrain: Shimano XT

13 . Devinci – Troy C/A29 GX

MSRP: $5,419 Jenson USA

Devinci is a lesser-known bicycle brand that produces highly affordable MTBs and gravel bikes. The Troy 29er uses Split-Pivot suspension on a premium carbon/aluminum frame with 150mm of travel for a customizable feel with better compliance and traction.

As one of the best full-suspension bikes on this list, the Troy has surprisingly good front and rear suspension, supplied by Fox. It includes an adjustable Flip Chip for quick changing between Hi/Lo mode. The brakes are SRAM Code R four-piston hydraulic discs with Race Face AR35 Offset TR rims and Maxxis Minion DHF/DHR II tires.

• Fork : 150mm Fox Float 36 Performance GRIP
• Rear Shock : 150mm Fox Float DPX2 Performance Elite 
• Drivetrain: SRAM GX 12-speed
• Frame: Carbon front triangle, aluminum rear triangle

14 . Diamondback – Release 3

MSRP: $4,100 REI

The Release is a 29″ Diamondback full-suspension mountain bike with an aluminum frame, providing a stiff and durable ride without raising the price too high. It rides on a top-quality Fox Performance Float setup with 140mm front and 130mm rear travel and Diamondback’s Level Link suspension platform, an ideal balance of speed and absorption. Additionally, a Shimano XT M8100 12-speed drivetrain offers tough components where you need them most.

No corners are cut on the wheels though, with Diamondback Blanchard running Maxxis Minion DHF/DHR 29 x 2.3″ tires, a combination that is well supported by Shimano XT M8100 hydraulic disc brakes. Overall, the Release is a killer trail bike that expertly keeps down costs without sacrificing quality, resulting in great value for money.

• Fork : 140mm, Fox 34 Performance Float
• Rear Shock : 130mm, Fox Performance Float DPX2
• Shimano XT 12-speed
• Aluminum frame

Buy on REI.com Buy on GovVelo.com

15 . Marin – Rift Zone

MSRP: $1,899 Jenson USA

The Rift Zone is a highly affordable MTB from Marin that combines impressive frame design with reliable components. On the frame, you get stiff, lightweight Series 3 6061 aluminum with Boost spacing, has ISCG05 tabs, and internal cable routing.

• Fork : 1RockShox Recon Silver RL 130mm
• Rear Shock : X-Fusion O2 Pro R, Custom Tune 120mm
• Shimano Deore, 11-Speed

With a balanced 130mm of front and 120mm rear travel from RockShox and X-Fusion, you will be able to descend with ease. Shimano BR-MT200 hydraulic disc brakes and a high-ratio Shimano Deore11-Speed drivetrain ensure you won’t struggle to keep up with the best out there. You don’t need to be a genius to know that this bike offers excellent value for money. 

Buy on Jenson USA Buy on GovVelo.com

16 . Yeti – SB140 TLR T2

MSRP: $9,100 Jenson USA

A pro mountain bike for pro riders, the Yeti SB140 TLR T2 is as much a mouthful as it is a bike packed full of features. Hop on and feel the ground smooth out before you as the Fox Factory suspension swallows up vibrations and the SRAM X01 drivetrain powers you forward without faltering.

• Fork : 160mm, Fox Factory 36 GRIP 2
• Rear Shock : Fox Float X Factory
• TURQ-series Carbon fiber

With a huge 160mm of upfront travel, you’ll have no trouble taking on big jumps or steep drops, with a Fox Factory Transfer dropper seat post giving you the space you need. The stiff SB140 carbon frame complements low-slung stability with an aggressive 65-degree head angle, resulting in a fast and fun all-mountain trail bike that excels in extreme conditions.

17 . Evil – Following LS 

MSRP: $6,450 Evo.com

Evil is one of those underrated mountain bike brands that seldom fail to impress. The carbon-framed Following comes in various groupset flavors , with the one pictured featuring SRAM GX Eagle running a 12-speed drivetrain with SRAM G2 RS disc brakes and RockShox suspension.

• Fork: 130mm Rockshox Pike Ultimate Charger 2 RC2
• Rear Shock : 121mm RockShox Deluxe Ultimate RCT

It’s an agile 29″ trail charger that can tackle rough terrain with a decent 130mm of upfront travel on a RockShox Pike Ultimate fork. The bike has a fun feel to it, bouncing along with confidence and just an edge of excitement. With this setup, the Maxxis Minion DHF tires work especially well wrapped on Industry Nine Enduro S rims.

18 . Cannondale – Habit 4

MSRP: $3,025 REI

The Cannondale Habit 4 29er is a burly trail machine designed with speed in mind.

A RockShox 35 Gold RL 140mm fork and Deluxe Select+ 130mm shock allow for some aggressive riding, while the progressive geometry and Proportional Response design make for a consistent ride across the sizes. 

• Fork : RockShox 35 Gold RL 140mm
• Rear Shock : RockShox Deluxe Select+  130mm
• Drivetrain: SRAM SX Eagle 12-speed
• Frame: Aluminum

Both the SRAM SX drivetrain and two-piston Shimano disc brakes are great parts that are trail-proven. The slack geometry and Maxxis Minion DHF 2.5″ and Aggressor 2.4″ EXO tires also make it easier to tackle chunky terrain with confidence. 

Buy on REI.com

19 . Ibis Ripley XT

MSRP:   $6,999

Ibis has long been touted as one of the best mountain bike brands worldwide and its flagship Ripley XT carbon trail bike hammers home that truth with a premium component list and ultra-light design. 

With 130mm of front and 120mm of rear travel, supported by DWLink suspension and V5 Kinematics, the Ripley is the perfect carbon trail bike.

• Fork : Fox Float 34 Factory Series, 130mm Travel
• Rear Shock : Fox Float 34 Factory Series, 130mm Travel
• Drivetrain:  Shimano XT M8100 Shadow Plus

The steep 76-degree seat tube and high ratio 1×12 Shimano XT drivetrain make hill climbing a cinch, while the XT M8120 4-piston disc brakes combined with thick Maxxis DHRII/Dissector 29 x 2.4″ tires ensure descents are safe and nimble.

Notable extra details include internal cable routing and an ISCG mount plus a polycarbonate downtube protector.

20 . Norco – Sight A1

MSRP: $5,599 Jenson USA

The Norco Sight A1 is a 29er aluminum bike fitted with premium RockShox suspension and designed with Norco’s Ride Aligned Design System for exceptional ride characteristics. This bike has excellent climbing and descending capabilities. 

• Fork : RockShox Lyrik Ultimate RC2, 160mm
• Rear Shock : RockShox Super Deluxe Select+ RT, 150mm

Norco bikes produced the Sight with ease in mind, so you can spend longer in the mountains supported by a 12-speed a SRAM GX Eagle 12-speed drivetrain should power run low. Additionally, Maxxis Assegai and Dissector tires and SRAM Code RSC four-piston hydraulic disc brakes keep you in control at all times. 

21 . Santa Cruz – 5010 5 C R

MSRP: $5,300 Mike’s Bikes

The 5010 5 C R from Santa Cruz Bicycles is a powerful trail bike designed for agility and speed. This bike benefits from pure MTB DNA from Santa Cruz, with a lightweight Carbon C frame that tears through the countryside, powered by a high ratio SRAM NX Eagle 12-speed drivetrain and Guide T hydraulic disc brakes.

• Fork : RockShox Pike Base, 140mm
• Rear Shock : Fox Float Performance DPS 130mm
• SRAM NX Eagle

Utilizing Santa Cruz’s proprietary VPP suspension link system, this bike rides like a high-end bike. For any adventurous rock hoppers out there, you get 140mm of front and 130mm of rear travel to absorb the impact of those particularly courageous maneuvers.

Charge along with confidence knowing your innovative suspension system and Maxxis Minion DHR II tires will ensure you stay on track.

Buy on Mike's Bikes Read Our Full Review

22 . Devinci Marshall

MSRP: $2,649

The Devinci Marshall is a serious alloy beast with more to give than you could read from the specs.

Besides having all the boxes ticked to conquer the rough and smoother trails with ease, what stands out the most is the mixture of solid mid-range components from TranzX dropper seat post, Maxxis Minion tires, and of course, the SRAM SX Eagle derailleur.

Finally, the bike comes with an 11-50t cassette and SRAM’s Level T precise hydraulic disc brakes that will stop you on a dime.

• Fork – RockShox 35 Silver TK SoloAir
• Rear Shock – RockShox Deluxe Select R Debonair
• Aluminum Optimum G04 Frame
• SRAM SX Eagle 12-speed drivetrain

Buy from evo.com

23 . Norco – Fluid FS 1

MSRP: $3,399 Evo.com

The Norco Fluid FS 1 is an affordable trail bike that combines a dependable Shimano SLX/XT drivetrain with a supple RockShox Pike Select 130mm fork, Deluxe Select 120mm shock, and aluminum frame.

The design of spec of this bike results in respectable performance without breaking the bank. It’s a great intermediate full-suspension bike for trail or XC riding without any extreme jumps or drops.

• Fork : RockShox Pike Select 130mm
• Rear Shock : RockShox Deluxe Select 120mm shock
• Drivetrain: Shimano SLX/XT 12-speed

Norco’s progressive design and modern trail geometry lend to this bike’s playful and confident trail performance. It has the perfect amount of suspension to ride comfortably along rocky singletrack and mountainous trails without swallowing up all your power.

Buy from Evo.com

Buying Guide

Ibis Ripmo – Big Wheel, Big Travel Speed Demon. What’s great about this bike is that Ibis Cycles manufacturers their own set of 29″ carbon wheels that can accomodate tires up to 2.8″ in width. “

What to Expect & How to Choose?

Trail bikes have quickly become the most common form of full-suspension MTBs, designed to tackle all forms of terrain while maintaining comfort over a long distance. Trail bikes fall between XC and Enduro bikes, offering sufficient downhill handling while retaining speed over flatter sections.

They usually have a seat tube angle in the 74-75 degree range, with shorter chainstays and longer reach. Travel ranges from as little as 120mm all the way up to 160mm, with both 29″ and 27.5″ wheel sizes popular.

You should consider your style of riding before selecting a mid-travel MTB. While they all have similar characteristics, the type of riding you intend on doing will define how much travel is ideal. 

Suspension Travel

If you enjoy charging downhill or attempting small jumps, you’ll want to choose something in the higher travel range . If you prefer racing along bumpy off-road or gravel tracks at high speed, aim for something in the lower travel range .

Wheels & Tires

Other points to consider include wheel and tire size. Larger 29″ wheels are better for speed and absorption, whereas the small 27.5″ wheel size is more agile on downhills and sharp corners. 2.5″ width is somewhat average, while 2.8″ is considered as wide.

Different MTB Disciplines

Xc vs. trail.

Cross-country (XC) is generally considered the most traditional mountain bike style with the most versatile usage. Hence the name, Cross-Country Mountain Bikes can handle all types of terrain from smooth singletrack and gravel roads to rocky trails and technical mountain tracks.

XC mountain bikes typically have a shorter wheelbase for agility and steeper geometry for easier hill climbing. Head angles are in the range of 69-71 degrees, with seat tube angles between 74-75 degrees. They usually have the lowest amount of travel, from 90-100mm , and 29″ wheels for a faster, stiffer ride.

>>> Related: Best Short-Travel Mountain Bikes (100-130mm range)

Trail/All-Mountain vs. Enduro

Enduro bikes attempt to combine aggressive downhill geometry with uphill climbing ability, resulting in a bike that can tackle highly technical courses over varied terrain. 

They typically have the longest, lowest, and slackest geometry of all MTB styles, making them less comfortable over long distances, but also more versatile. They are both stable on downhills and powerful on ascents, with suspension in the 150-180mm range and tires from 2.3″ to 2.8″ thick.

>>> Related: Best Enduro Mountain Bikes (150-180mm range)

27.5″ vs. 29″ – The Endless Debate

Mountain bike wheel sizes have become a hot topic recently, after years of 26″ wheels dominating the market. Since the 29″ wheels began gaining popularity in the mid-2010s, manufacturers began experimenting with different wheel sizes, introducing the mid-sized 27.5″ or also known as the 650b wheel size. Nowadays, almost all MTBs use either 29″ or 27.5″, with subtle but noticeable differences between the two. You’ll still find 26″ wheels on smaller frame sizes on some models.

• Being larger, 29″ wheels are better for taller riders and while they offer less acceleration, they have better traction and attack angle which eventually means better speed .
• 27.5″ wheels are faster and lighter , with better maneuverability and greater versatility .

27.5″ MTB wheels are also known to have the availability to fit wider tires of up to 3″ in width, while the standard max clearance for 29″ tires is 2.6″

>>> Related: Best Mullet Mountain Bikes

Which are the best mountain bike brand on this list?

Ibis, Yeti, Santa Cruz, Revel, Transition, and Evil are some of the boutique-type brands in the MTB business, while Salsa has the most models available. Cannondale has also done a great job providing online shoppers with a variety of mountain bikes from their fleet.

What is the best all-mountain bike?

The different types of mountain bikes might confuse most riders, but it isn’t actually as confusing. An all-mountain bike is basically built 70% for ascending and 30% descending, making it a few notches harder to ride than the regular trail bike.

Do you need the rear suspension lock-up switch?

Climbing is a part of mountain biking, and if you tend to be the climber who climbs while seated, a rear suspension-lock-up switch might be useful for you. The switch works wonders on longer-travel bikes with slacker geometry, while you’ll generally see the switches on higher-end models.

Where to buy trail and all-mountain bikes?

These are the best online bike shops to buy mountain bikes online

Mike’s Bikes Awesome set of high-end and mid-range mountain bikes, both full-suspension and hardtail

JensonUSA Obviously one of the more known stores that will fix you up a good deal

Evo.com   Bikes & frames by the best brands available

GravityCoalition You can find pretty sweet last-size deals there on full-suspension and eBikes as well.

REI Cannondale, Co-op Cycles, and Salsa mountain bikes are represented.

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About the Author

Mark Hartley

One thought on “ best trail & all-mountain bikes (130-160 mm travel) ”.

How come no Banshees on this list?

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Yeti SB150 Review: A Long-Travel 29er Built to Do Everything

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Low, slack, and stretched, this long-travel 29er performs so well climbing and descending that riders who love the downhill could make it a one-bike quiver.

Bikemakers often claim their all-mountain or trail bike is the only one you need. But no all-mountain or trail bike we’ve tested is compromise-free on big descents. And while bomber enduro rides like the Santa Cruz Bronson, Pivot Firebird, and Specialized Enduro will put a smile on your face during rowdy downhills, they still compromise some performance on climbs.

Enter the Yeti Cycles SB150 , launched today, starting at $5,199. With a 150mm travel shock and 170mm travel fork, it offers the best example of a long-travel 29er bike that climbs as well as an all-mountain bike — while descending confidently even in harsh terrain. And after my test, I think you’ll consider selling your downhill, enduro, and all-mountain bikes to own an SB150.

Yeti SB150: A Better MTB

The new SB150 has what Yeti calls “progressive race geometry.” That means longer reach, steeper seat angle, and a slacker head angle combine with a shorter fork offset.

During development, Yeti took its popular SB5.5 and, according to Yeti director of engineering Peter Zawistowski, “Frankensteined” it to explore the progressive race geometry on offer.

“We wanted a slightly more progressive leverage curve, space for a water bottle in the front triangle, and lower standover height while maintaining our well-known Yeti Switch Infinity efficient pedaling platform,” Zawistowski said.

So Yeti opted for a 15 percent leverage curve based on feedback from riders. The result, Zawistowski said, provides better small-bump compliance as well as a “wider range of compatibility of shocks” and a “wider tuning window for rider weights and styles.”

“If you break shock travel into thirds —beginning, middle and end — with the new leverage curve, in the beginning of travel the bike is more sensitive to small bumps. In the middle of the travel, it’s well supported. And in the end of travel, the bike has even more bottom out resistance than previously. These new progression percentages give us a wider range of compatibility of shocks and a wider tuning window for rider weights and styles.”

In short, the Yeti Cycles team actually figured out how to make a mountain bike with better steering that’s more versatile and capable overall. And to do so, the brand filed 15 patents in the process.

“We’d get on a bike with a wheelbase 30mm longer and it would feel shorter,“ said Product Manager Ryan “Rocket” Thornberry. “On paper, everything about this bike looked wrong. But on the trail, it was like we made an impossible wish list and all of it came true.”

Yeti SB150 Review

I rode the SB150 for a long weekend, hammering a wide variety of trails at Colorado’s Snowmass and Buttermilk ski resorts. That included a 1,800-foot climb up the front side of Snowmass on buff flow trails, transitioning to rocky, technical, and fall-off-your-bike-steep descents. Then I rode it for another week on backyard trails at my home in Vermont, where I typically ride bikes with far less suspension.

In short, I was stunned at the SB150’s adaptability and performance. The new geometry helped the bike steer exceptionally well. I smoothly rode features where other bikes gave me pause. I felt centered on the bike — a driver not a passenger.

Ordinarily, I would have never considered taking a bike this big on some of the trails I rode — especially the monster climb at Snowmass. But the SB150 crushed it all, making me rethink what and where I’ll pedal. At first glance, this bike appeared too much for everyday riding. I was wrong.

On multi-hour rides on technical singletrack, I soared over obstacles I previously considered sketchy. Without pause, the bike rolled over it playfully and sturdily.

Plus, the bike climbed as well as any all-mountain bike. I knew the SB150 would crush any downhill I pointed it toward, so I was most surprised by its ascents. On uphill flow trail, it was a 100 percent adequate climber, not sluggish at all. And thanks to Yeti’s Switch Infinity additional linkage, there was no bobbing around as I slogged up alongside the lifts.

I didn’t bother to lock out the shock, yet the bike didn’t bounce around. Then, when I hit sections of technical uphill singletrack I wasn’t sure I’d be able to pedal, the bike cruised through with agility and confidence-inspiring handling.

On rooty, easy-coasting singletrack, the SB150 smoothed out the trail. It absorbed small bumps but never felt like a beast when I needed to make a quick correction to avoid an obstacle.

When pushed to perform, the bike handles with catlike agility while rolling over everything in its path. Like all Yetis, the SB150 is made for an aggressive rider who wants to push themselves and the bike. But its slow-speed handling is also spot on.

The kinematics of the SB150 are on point. So is the new shock tune. If it’s set up properly, you’ll use all this bike’s travel and get everything you want, including small-bump sensitivity and midstroke support. And you’ll maintain a poppy, lively feel as well as better bottom-out resistance. Yeti Cycles built this bike with great tunability for a wide range of riding styles and rider weights.

Maintenance

The new bike also makes maintenance and modifications easier. A 60mm shock extender allowed Yeti to get optimal shock placement and space for a water bottle in the main frame. The extender also allows the shock to be removed for servicing quickly and easily. The two-piece extender doesn’t clamp onto the shock — it has bearings. These minimize friction, so you’re not wearing through bushings as you ride. And the extender fits inside the shock link, keeping the bike frame narrow.

New Yetis, from the SB100 up, share hardware. So you won’t have to wonder if you grabbed the correct spare derailleur hanger for your next big trip. And the bikes are maintenance friendly for your mechanic. The shock is easily removable, and the bottom bracket port can be unscrewed, simplifying dropper post install.

The cockpit is user-friendly too. Much like Yeti’s SB100, the 150 has lower standover height, making it more accessible to smaller riders and more comfortable for everyone. By lowering the seat tube height, the SB150 is compatible with up to a 200mm dropper post, though it comes with Fox’s Transfer 150mm dropper. Yeti also made the switch to a 31.6mm seatpost diameter to compensate for consumers’ tendency to overtighten seat tube collars, which commonly interferes with correct dropper post operation.

Yeti 2019 model year bikes, including the SB150, now come with a lifetime warranty for the original owner. And they’re more durable than ever without being heavier. The SB150 is tested to downhill standards and has undergone substantial impact testing both in the lab and under the rider on the Enduro World Series circuit.

Yeti SB150 Impressions

I was blown away by the SB150’s performance, both on its own and compared to other long-travel 29ers I’ve tested. Drawbacks I experienced with other brands, like pedal strike, weren’t an issue here.

But setting this bike up to get the best ride will take time, more so than on any other Yeti I’ve ridden. Tiny tweaks in sag and suspension make a noticeable difference.

The SB150 is spec’d with a piggyback Fox Factory X2 shock and a Fox Factory 36 fork. But it’s Fox-approved for a coil if that’s your preference. Set up the bike according to recommendations on Yeti’s  new website , launched today. Then, hone in on settings in a more scientific way: Ride it repeatedly on the same section of trail, making small tweaks each time.

Then, once you feel you’ve got it tuned to you, let it loose anywhere.

Berne Broudy is a contributing writer at GearJunkie.com.

Broudy has been writing about cycling, skiing, and outdoor gear for more than 20 years. Before that, Broudy spent time guiding hiking and cycling tours in South America, Europe, and the U.S.

Based in Vermont, Berne Broudy is a core user of and expert in outdoor, cycling, and ski gear, as well as overlanding and powersports gear. She has been writing about outdoor products, business, and issues for more than 20 years. She has written and photographed for more than 20 publications and has served as a contributing editor at many of them.

Broudy currently sits on several nonprofit boards in her home state of Vermont. She is an avid mountain biker, gravel biker, backcountry skier, overlander, and adventure traveler.

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Is 120mm Travel Enough for Trail?

Today I’m gonna talk about one of the most hotly debated topics in mountain biking – is 120mm of travel enough for trail riding?.

Now, I know what you’re thinking, “Jerry, you’re just another opinionated blogger spouting off nonsense.”

But hear me out, because I’ve got some real-world experience under my belt.

See, I used to be a hardcore XC rider, the kind of guy who thought anything more than 100mm of travel was for wussies.

But then I took a spill on a gnarly descent and realized that maybe, just maybe, a little extra squish in my suspension could make a big difference in my overall ride experience.

So, I took the plunge and upgraded to a bike with 120mm of travel.

And lemme tell you, it was a game changer.

But, the question remains – is 120mm of travel enough for trail riding?

Well, the answer, my friends, is a bit more complicated than a simple yes or no.

Table of Contents

The Pros of 120mm Travel for Trail Riding

There are several advantages to having 120mm of travel on your trail bike .

Firstly, it’s a good balance between efficiency and capability.

With 120mm, you’re still able to pedal efficiently on flatter sections, but you’ve also got enough suspension to handle the rougher stuff.

Another pro of 120mm travel is that it’s versatile.

With this amount of travel, you can tackle a wide range of trails, from smooth singletrack to technical descents.

It’s a great choice for riders who want to do a little bit of everything, without having to compromise on performance.

The Cons of 120mm Travel for Trail Riding

Of course, there are also some downsides to having 120mm of travel on your trail bike .

The first is that it may not be enough for the absolute gnarliest terrain.

If you’re a downhiller at heart, or you regularly find yourself on the most technical trails, you may want to consider a bike with more travel.

Another con is that a bike with 120mm of travel may not be as efficient on long, climbing-heavy rides.

If you’re the kind of rider who spends most of their time grinding up steep climbs, a lighter, XC-oriented bike may be a better choice.

Unleashing the Trail Warrior Within: Understanding Suspension Travel

Let’s get on the same wavelength when it comes to suspension travel. Picture your bike’s suspension as a superhero, tirelessly battling the forces of rough terrain.

Suspension travel refers to the distance the superhero’s cape (or rather, the shock absorber) can move up and down.

When it comes to trail riding, the amount of suspension travel you need depends on various factors. Let’s break it down:

1. The Type of Trail

Not all trails are created equal.

Some trails are as smooth as a baby’s bottom, while others are as wild as a bull in a china shop. The rougher the trail, the more suspension travel you’ll want to have in your arsenal.

2. Your Riding Style

Are you a speed demon, craving adrenaline-fueled descents? Or do you prefer a more mellow approach, savoring the scenic beauty of the trail?

Your riding style plays a significant role in determining how much suspension travel is right for you.

3. Your Body Weight

As much as we hate to admit it, our body weight influences the performance of our bike’s suspension. If you’re a lean, mean trail machine, you might get away with less suspension travel.

But if you’re packing a few extra pounds (we won’t judge), you might want to consider beefing up your suspension.

4. Your Tolerance for Discomfort

Think of your suspension as a comfy recliner. The more travel it has, the more it cushions you from the bumps and jolts of the trail.

If you’re a fan of a plush, smooth ride , you’ll lean towards more suspension travel. But if you enjoy feeling every nook and cranny of the trail, you might find 120mm to be just right.

5. Your Skill Level and Confidence

Let’s be real here: not all of us are born with the skills of a mountain biking pro.

If you’re a beginner or still building your confidence on the trail, 120mm of travel can provide a forgiving ride while allowing you to develop your skills.

As you progress and tackle more challenging trails, you may consider upgrading to a bike with greater suspension travel.

The Goldilocks Dilemma: Finding the Right Balance

Now that I’ve explored the factors that influence your suspension travel needs, it’s time to find that sweet spot, like Goldilocks seeking the perfect porridge.

Here are a few tips to help you strike the right balance:

• Test Ride: Don’t be shy to take different bikes for a spin and see how they handle the trails you love. It’s like trying on shoes—some will fit like a glove, while others might pinch your toes.
• Consider Upgrades: If you’re rocking a 120mm travel bike but craving a bit more cushiness, you can explore upgrading the suspension components to improve the overall performance.
• Experiment with Tire Pressure: Adjusting your tire pressure can make a surprising difference in how your bike feels on the trail. Play around with it and find the sweet spot that maximizes comfort without sacrificing control.
• Master Your Technique: Remember, technique plays a vital role in conquering the trail. By honing your skills and learning to read the terrain, you can make the most of your bike’s capabilities, regardless of its travel.

Choosing the Right Fork and Rear Shock: Unleash the Trail Beast!

Let’s talk about something that can take your ride from ordinary to extraordinary—the fork and rear shock.

These two components are like the dynamic duo of suspension, and getting the right ones can make your trail experience out-of-this-world amazing.

Buckle up and let’s dive into more details!

Travel Options: Finding Your Suspension Sweet Spot

When it comes to travel options, it’s like choosing the perfect dessert—it has to be just right. You want enough travel to soak up the bumps and keep you comfortable, but not too much that you lose efficiency.

For trail riding, a common range is around 120mm to 150mm of travel. If you’re tackling gnarlier terrain, like technical descents or enduro races, you might lean towards 150mm to 170mm or more.

Remember, the right amount of travel can make a world of difference in how your bike performs.

Adjustability: The Secret Sauce to Customizing Your Ride

Adjustability is like having a personal chef who can cater to your every culinary whim.

With forks and rear shocks that offer adjustable features, you can fine-tune your suspension to match your riding style, the trail conditions, and even your mood.

Want a plush and forgiving ride? Dial in more compression and rebound damping.

Craving efficiency and snappy handling?

Firm up your suspension to reduce bobbing and maximize pedal power. Adjustability allows you to tailor your ride like a custom-made suit, ensuring optimal performance and comfort.

Compatibility: A Match Made in Suspension Heaven

Compatibility is like finding your perfect dance partner—it’s all about harmony and synchrony.

When selecting a fork and rear shock, you need to ensure they are compatible with your bike’s frame, wheel size, and axle standards.

Check the specifications of your bike and the suspension components to ensure they match up.

Some forks and shocks are designed specifically for certain frame geometries or wheel sizes, so make sure you choose components that play well together.

A well-matched fork and rear shock create a seamless connection, allowing you to unlock the full potential of your bike’s suspension system.

The All-Mountain Marvel

You’re tackling a rocky, technical section of the trail, feeling like a superhero defying gravity.

Your bike is equipped with a 150mm travel fork that features adjustable compression and rebound damping.

As you hit a big drop, the fork effortlessly absorbs the impact, smoothing out the landing and keeping you in control.

The rear shock, with its air-sprung design and adjustable sag, keeps your rear wheel glued to the ground, providing traction like a gecko on a glass window.

This combination of a well-matched fork and rear shock ensures a plush and responsive ride, allowing you to confidently tackle the most challenging all-mountain trails.

The Cross-Country Cruiser

Now imagine this: you’re pedaling through a flowy singletrack, effortlessly climbing those hills like a mountain goat on espresso.

Your bike is equipped with a lightweight 120mm travel fork with a lockout feature, allowing you to firm up the suspension for efficient climbing.

The rear shock, designed for cross-country riding, offers a platform mode that minimizes pedal-induced bobbing, maximizing your power transfer.

As you navigate tight corners and technical descents, the responsive fork and rear shock keep your bike nimble and agile, allowing you to maintain control and carve through the trails with precision.

This combination of a lightweight, adjustable fork and a responsive rear shock ensures a fast and efficient cross-country ride, perfect for those who want to cover long distances and tackle varied terrain with speed and finesse.

So, my friend, remember the importance of choosing the right fork and rear shock—it can be the key to unlocking your trail beast potential.

Consider the travel options that suit your riding style and the type of terrain you’ll be conquering.

Embrace the adjustability that allows you to fine-tune your suspension for optimal performance and comfort.

And don’t forget about compatibility—ensure that the fork and rear shock you choose are a perfect match for your bike’s frame and wheel size.

Now go out there, be bold, and conquer those trails like the legend you are!

Can I ride technical trails with a 120mm travel bike?

Absolutely! While a bike with more travel may offer additional forgiveness, a 120mm travel bike can handle technical trails just fine.

It may require more finesse and precise line choices, but it’s all part of the challenge and fun.

Will I be slower with a 120mm travel bike?

Speed is more than just the amount of travel your bike has. It’s about skill, fitness, and overall bike setup.

While a bike with more travel may excel in certain situations, a skilled rider on a 120mm travel bike can still tear up the trails.

Can I still do big jumps and drops with 120mm of travel?

A: It depends on your riding style and the size of the jumps and drops.

For most riders, 120mm of travel will be sufficient for smaller jumps and drops.

However, if you’re looking to huck yourself off massive jumps, you may want to consider a bike with more travel.

Is 120mm of travel better than 100mm or 140mm?

A: It’s not a matter of better or worse, it’s a matter of what’s right for you. If you’re looking for a good balance of efficiency and capability, 120mm of travel may be the sweet spot.

What is the difference between 120mm travel and longer travel?

The main difference between 120mm travel and longer travel is the amount of suspension travel.

Bikes with longer travel have more cushioning and can handle bigger hits and drops, while bikes with shorter travel are lighter and more nimble.

Is 120mm travel enough for downhill riding?

No, 120mm travel is not enough for serious downhill riding.

These bikes are better suited for cross-country and trail riding , not for high-speed descents and big jumps.

Can I upgrade my 120mm travel bike to have more travel?

Yes, you can upgrade your bike to have more travel.

You can install a longer travel fork and rear shock, but keep in mind that this will likely result in a heavier and less nimble bike.

Should I upgrade to a bike with more travel?

That depends on your personal preferences and how you feel on your current bike.

If you find yourself consistently pushing the limits of your bike’s capabilities or tackling more demanding trails, upgrading to a bike with greater travel could enhance your riding experience.

Is 120mm travel suitable for all riders?

No two riders are alike, and individual preferences vary.

While 120mm travel can be sufficient for many riders, if you seek more aggressive or extreme riding experiences might opt for bikes with higher travel.

It ultimately comes down to your specific needs and goals.

Can I use my 120mm travel bike for other disciplines?

Indeed! While 120mm travel is commonly associated with trail riding, it doesn’t mean your bike is limited to that.

With some adjustments, you can explore cross-country adventures, light enduro trails, or even dabble in bikepacking. Your trusty steed is versatile!

Finding Your Trail Bliss

So, dear friend, is 120mm travel enough for the trail?

The answer lies in the dynamic interplay of your riding style, the trail’s terrain, and your personal preferences.

While a bike with more travel might offer a bit more cushioning and forgiveness, a 120mm travel bike can still be a trusty companion on your trail adventures.

Remember, it’s not just about the numbers—it’s about the joy of riding, the thrill of conquering obstacles, and the freedom to explore nature’s playground.

If you’re looking for a light and nimble bike for cross-country and trail riding, then 120mm travel may be perfect for you.

But if you want a bike that can handle the most technical terrain, then you may want to consider a bike with more travel.

It’s important to find a bike that meets your specific needs and allows you to ride at your best.

So, don’t be afraid to experiment and try different travel lengths until you find the perfect fit for you.

Remember, it’s all about having fun on the trails and finding the bike that allows you to do just that!

Jerry Taylor

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How to Upgrade Your Mountain Bike Fork - Everything You Need to Know [Video]

How to upgrade your mountain bike fork:.

The fork on your mountain bike has a few important jobs. First, it holds the front wheel and helps you steer the bike, helps you hit rough sections easier and  keeps you in control allowing you to ride smoother and faster. So when it comes to upgrading your fork on your mountain bike, the choice of what fork to buy is very important. As with most things in the bike industry, there are a huge amount of options and also within those options, there are size variants that you need to make sure are compatible with your current bikes specifications. In this article, we are going to help guide you to the correct fork for your bike. Stick around and maybe you will learn a thing or two!

Wheel Size:

The first thing you need to find out is the wheel size of your front wheel. This is something you don't want to change and make sure is right. For the most part you will have 3 sizes, 26, 27.5, and 29” wheel options. Pretty simple. The only odd one would be a 27.5 plus fork. For this, you would use a 29” fork as the larger tire needs the extra clearance. Once you get your wheel size you can narrow down your search for forks quite a bit. 

Steerer Tube Type:

Next is finding your steerer tube type. There are mainly two options for current modern mountain bikes. The majority of bikes these days have a “Tapered Steerer Tube” meaning the bottom is a larger diameter than the top, a 1 ½” bottom to a 1 ⅛” upper. If your bike does have this, that is great as you will have the most amount of upgradeable options to choose from. The next most common is an 1 ⅛” straight steerer tube, the same diameter from fork crown up to the top. While becoming less and less common, there are still options out there. It's sometimes possible to have a straight steerer bike and get a larger lower diameter headset cup so you can then make your bike a tapered headtube. While not always possible, it's worth checking out if you are looking to upgrade your fork for some serious performance improvements This is best done by doing some research and if you need some help, contact our customer service team. 

Much less common and a bit old school, are threaded steerer tubes. Found on older bikes, these are pretty much impossible to find.. If you are looking to upgrade your fork on a bike that has a threaded steerer tube, it's possible you can buy a new headset for your frame and get a threadless straight steerer fork for that bike. But at that point, unless there is some emotional connection with that bike, it's likely outdated and might not be worth putting much money into.

Fork Travel:

The travel of your suspension fork is an important part to consider as well. This is one of the first options you have to change and possibly get “more” out of your front end.

Start with finding out what travel your current fork has. Once you know that (for this example let's use a 150mm travel fork). You can get a new 150mm travel fork without any issues, same travel, works great, you are not changing anything, simple. But… this is where you can adjust what your bike does a little bit and make it better suited for you.

If the bike has 150mm travel stock, you can easily up the travel 10mm, to a 160mm fork. This is a safe amount of travel to change, going up 10mm in travel doesn't change much, gives you a little more suspension to use, and normally it slackens your headtube angle about .4 or .5 degrees.

On some bikes you can bump up travel 20mm, from 150mm to 170mm, while that starts to change the original geometry of the bike, most of the time it's still a pretty safe amount to change, slackening your bike about .8 - 1 degree, the bigger change is how much it might raise your bottom bracket height. New bikes bottom bracket heights are pretty low and will still ride correctly with that much change, but it's something to consider. 

Less common, is dropping your travel down 10mm. Sometimes people do this to steepen the headtube angle, shorten the wheelbase, or just have a lower front end. Dropping 10mm will do the same but it will steepen your headtube angle about .4 degrees, but it will also drop your bottom bracket height as well. As I mentioned, if you have a more modern mountain bike it's likely that your bottom bracket height is close to as low as it can be and if you are already pedal striking rocks often, this might not be the best choice for your bike. I did just see a bike check with Connor Fearon where he dropped his fork's travel from 170mm to 160mm on his Kona to better suit his local trails and make it more of a comfortable trail bike. So while it's not as common as “over forking” your bike, you still see it happen from time to time. 

More options, are you ready to keep narrowing down your search? Axle type is very important because if you get this wrong your front wheel will not work. The most common axle types are: Quick Release or QR also known as 9 x 100QR, then you have Thru Axles like 15 x 100, 15 x 110mm Boost, as well as 20mm x 100mm and 20mm x 110mm Boost. Yes, lots of options but let us help you out.

Quick release axles are common on older or entry level bikes, this is the classic type of front axle. You have a lever that you open up and then normally have to unscrew it a bit to take off the front wheel. While it's been used for a long time, it's a bit flexy, inaccurate, and generally not amazing.

Next, you have thru axles. First introduced on dh bikes, but now it's common for all new modern mountain bikes to use this type of axle. A few years ago that standard was 15mm axle x 100mm width, until we changed that. Now,  Boost Spacing is the most common. That is 15mm axle x 110mm width, adding 10mm do your front axle.

So, if you currently have 15x100mm spacing and are looking to get a new fork, it's a good idea to just get a boost fork with 15x110mm spacing, and you can get some hub adaptors to take up that extra 10mm, 5mm on each side. That way your fork is more “future proof” , which helps in this constantly changing industry. If you have a fork with a QR front axle, you most likely need to stick with that style of front axle to match your wheel.

However, some wheels, (Stans, maybe Chris King, Hope Tech, DT Swiss, you can get a new axle or end caps so you can make your hub from QR to Thru Axle, but best to contact an expert to know 100%), or you can also get a new front wheel at the same time. If you do this, you can get a front wheel with whatever spacing you want, and match your fork to that spacing as well, which is a more expensive route, but could be worth it if you are willing to spend that type of money on your current bike. 

The other types of axles I talked about are more for older style trail and freeride bikes, some dirt jumpers as well, but most commonly for Downhill bikes. Current downhill bikes still use a 20mm axle and recently a 20mm x 110mm boost has been introduced as well. If you are looking to upgrade your fork with a 20mm axle, you might have a hard time finding anything that isn't a dual crown fork, as most trail bikes have moved to the 15mm axle standard. 

Brake Mount:

More confusion on brake mounts? We got you covered. If you haven't figured it all out yet, one of the last bits you need to know is your brake mount type. Modern bikes use what is called a post mount brake mount, meaning in many cases the disc brake caliper mounts directly to the fork with some bolts, no adaptors needed. This is the most clean and easy brake type.

All post mount forks are not created equal however. It was common for all forks to have a 160mm rotor post mount, so if you had a 160mm rotor you could bolt the caliper to the fork and it will work great. That was a few years ago and if you have noticed a theme, things change… a lot. It has become much more common for trail bike forks to have a 180mm post mount rotor size on the fork, all top level RockShox forks are 180mm post mount with the exception of the new ZEB and the 100mm SID SL fork. The ZEB has a 200mm post mount while the SID SL has a 160mm post mount.

T he mid range to entry level forks will most likely have a 160mm post mount. If you have a 180mm rotor but are buying a 160mm post mount fork, you will need an adaptor so your caliper can mount and make contact at the correct spot on your disc rotor. 

Older style disc brake forks have what is called an “IS” mount. IS mounts are holes drilled into the fork, this is almost not seen on any modern forks, but was more common on older forks. If you have an “IS” mount, you will always need an adapter to mount your disc caliper as the holes are perpendicular to the mounting holes on the caliper. 

If your bike uses v-brakes, or rim brakes, your options might be more limited. While you can still get some suspension forks with this brake type, it's common that the fork will also be straight steerer and qr axle. 

Fork Offset:

You can pretty much get all your specs down with the above sections and can probably find a fork that works with all that info. But, one of the last specs that might be important for you to look into is fork offset.

Fork offset is the distance between your steerer tube on your fork and where your front wheel axle mounts. I'm not going to explain what fork offset does as that is a whole topic on its own, one which we explained in our video on Fork Offset Explained .

For the most part, you want to match your forks offset with the stock spec of your bike. So if your fork is 51mm offset, find a 51mm offset. Recently offset became more of an option with how some new modern bikes are getting longer and slacker, changing the offset helps your bike handle better.

So if you read our fork offset explained blog and think you want to change what your bike has, great, look for a longer or more reduced option. But if you don't know or can't find the exact offset your bike has, it's likely not going to feel much different and I'd just find the fork you can afford and go that route. 

Air vs. Coil??:

Air VS Coil, the debate that still goes on everyday. When you are looking to upgrade your suspension fork, it's likely you will be looking at an Air fork. They are more adjustable, feel smoother most of the time, and normally they are the upgrade option. If you currently have a lower end coil fork, an air fork will make a huge improvement. Now, there are a few coil forks coming back to life in the mid-high end range, like MRP Ribbon Coil, CaneCreek Helm Coil, and the new Marzocchi Z1 Coil fork, are new coil options if you want a set it and forget it fork. If you are also looking to maybe turn your mid-high end fork into a coil fork, you can look at Push Industries ACS-3 coil insert kit. 

How Much Should You Spend?:

The last thing to consider is how much do you want to spend? This is hard to answer as it depends on your budget, riding amount, style, as well as what bike you are putting it on.

If you are upgrading a bike that is more than 10 years old, it's likely that you might want to think about even making those upgrades. For a little bit more money, you can often get a more modern mountain bike that has newer standards and geometry.

If you have a bike that is only a few years old, it's very likely you can make some upgrades that will work for your bike and might be future proof as well if you wanted to upgrade other parts as well. It also depends what you are looking for in your fork upgrade. Do you want a better feel, more travel, more adjustments, or lighter weight? Those are all things you should consider when looking at new forks.

Generally, the more money you spend you get better performance, in trail and XC forks you get a lighter weight fork and a better feel, on trail/enduro forks you normally get better performance, stiffer chassis, and more adjustments.

So are you the type of rider that needs any of those things? Then you might want to look at the upper midrange to high end forks. If you just want something that feels a bit better than you can probably look around the entry level - mid range type of forks. 

Final Thoughts:

Wow, that is a lot of information to digest and think about. Upgrading your fork can get you some major performance improvement but it’s important to understand the right model for your bike. Also consider things like your bike's age, and how much it's worth to you. Then look at Wheel Size, Axle Type, Steerer Tube Type, Travel amount, Brake Mount type, and fork offset. With so much to consider, it's a great option to contact our customer service team, the experts at Worldwide Cyclery are here to help you get the correct fork on your bike, maybe give you some options to choose from and get you the best fork for your bike. 

If you're one strange human and would like to read the transcript of the video above, continue reading below!

hello mountain bike friends a little over two years ago we made a video about all of the things you need to consider when you are upgrading the fork on your mountain bike it's one of the most common upgrades there is but there is a lot of complexity there in terms of steer tube wheel size axle brake mounts all of that sort of stuff we're going to cover everything you need to know in this video to upgrade the fork on your mountain bike

Jeremy christmas! forks! [Music]

so in this video we are going to talk about all the things to consider when upgrading the entire fork on your bike obviously when you say upgrade your fork that could mean upgrading your air spring or your damper something like that that's not going to be in this video that's a little bit more technical on really high end mountain bike forks you can do things like upgrade your damper or your air spring or add tokens or things like that which could be considered an upgrade push industries make some really cool high-end upgrade dampers for very expensive forks but in this video we're going to talk about the things to consider when you're upgrading the entire fork on your mountain bike we're going to go over steer tube type wheel size offset axle brake mount and everything else so you can see right now the time stamps on the screen if you want to pan around and get to a point where you need or you can just watch the whole thing if you want to learn all about this let's jump into it [Music] the first thing we're going to talk about is steerer tubes you do have to get all of these things we're going to talk about in this video correct in order to make sure the fork you buy fits your bike but one of the key elements there that we're going to talk about first is steer tubes most modern mountain bikes all have what's called a tapered steerer tube and what that means is that the bottom is a 1.5 inch and the top is an inch and an eighth tapered so again this is the absolute most common that there is on modern day mountain bikes there of course is on a little bit older bikes or let's say cross country bikes with a steel frame or something a straight steerer which means it's an inch and an eighth all the way through like this less common but again very important to know which one you have so it fits your bike on much older bikes you can get into things that are like threaded steers jared bring in an example this is a giant sedona it has a threaded inch there's an at one point there was an inch threaded then there was an inch and an eight threaded then there was an inch and a threadless this is a quill stem if your bike has that i don't recommend upgrading your fork you should probably just ride it as it is have a great time save some cash for a whole new bike that's deer tubes help me help

[Music] you next thing here is travel um this is a very important thing to talk about travel for your bike you're basically the manufacturer of your bike specifically engineered your frame to work perfectly with a certain travel fork which means you should probably stick with that because a lot of engineers spent a lot of time designing that frame around that travel fork you can of course go a little lower or a little higher we do not recommend going more than 20 millimeters in either direction so that means if you've got a hardtail with a 100 millimeter travel fork don't go any lower than an 80mm travel don't go any more than 120 ml travel if your bike is designed for a certain travel fork and you go lower you're gonna steepen the head angle lower the bottom bracket lower the whole front end of the thing and that's going to give you a very different feel and vice versa if you go more if you add travel to what your bike is intended for it's going to lift that bottom bracket lift the whole front end of the bike and slacken out that front end front head angle so it will change how your bike works if you change the travel of your fork so definitely something to consider but again we really really do not recommend going more than 20 millimeters away either direction from what your bike was intended to use initially so keep that in mind every bike you know sort of is designed around a specific travel fork it's pretty easy to figure out you probably already have one on your bike or you can figure out pretty quickly from the manufacturer's website what bike brand you have what it's designed for there's obviously a ton of different travel forks out there all the way from 80 and 100 millimeter ultra light cross country forks like this thing to your 170 millimeter 38 mil stanchion beautiful super enduro forks to your 200 millimeter travel dual crown forks which are pretty much exclusively made for downhill bikes typically the front fork travel is going to match the rear travel on the rear end or be close to it you don't really see a huge amount of variation there again the biggest thing to keep in mind is what was that frame engineered for initially those manufacturers those engineers hopefully know what they're doing and they designed it right so don't go too far away from that that's travel

another key element to consider when upgrading the fork on your bike is what wheel size are you looking for so you want to get a fork that corresponds to the wheel size that you have on your bike for instance if you have a 26 inch wheel bike you want to go with the 26 inch wheel fork if you have a 27.5 inch wheel bike you want to get a 27.5 inch wheel fork but if you have a 27.5 plus bike you probably want to get a 27.5 plus slash 29 fork and that'll do the job for you but basically when you're looking at forks you just want to go with the fork that corresponds to the wheel size on your bike and then you'll be set

okay the next thing to consider is offset this is typically specified in the product title and in the description of any fork you're looking to buy offset wasn't really a thing until maybe a decade ago gary fisher actually came out with what they called there i believe it was g2 geometry and they pretty much just changed the offset of a fork on their 29-inch wheeled bikes when 29ers were just becoming a thing basically to make that offset work better for the larger wheel and the geometry of that bike since then it's continued to evolve different brands have designed bikes around different offsets and now forks are offered in different offsets it finally seems like bike brands are settling on what offset they want to use and what works best for 29 and 27.5 um but who knows we'll see it could change in a couple years we made a whole video called fork offset explained sort of detailing how the offset actually changes the handling of the bikes and we also wrote an article as well that showed like detailed images of how when you change the offset of a fork the trail changes and sort of the steering dynamics of the front wheel change as the offset changes but nonetheless like most things we've said in this video get the offset that your bike was engineered around so if your bike was engineered around a 51 mil offset go with that if it was engineered around a 44 millimeter offset go with that it's not necessarily something you want to mess with when it comes to if your bike was designed for a certain offset you should very likely just stick to it so keep that in mind and again most modern day mountain bikes because offsets become a much more real thing in terms of a fork attribute in the last couple years the brands will specify what offset you need hopefully on the model page of the bike that you have and then you can just upgrade your fork and get that so don't worry too much about going away from what your bike was designed for when you're upgrading your fork it's much more about weight performance adjustments feel all of that sort of stuff and then matching sort of the attributes that that bike was engineered for so there you go that's offset [Music]

okay next up is the axle on your fork this is a very important thing to also get right i wish i could say there are some common types or ones the most common but there really isn't i think probably the most common on modern mountain bikes these days is the 15 by 110 what's called a boost axle so mountain bikes originally had a quick release also known as like a nine millimeter axle um that's not a thru axle then it went to a thru axle just regular 15 millimeter by 100 then it went to 15 by 110 boost and that's probably the most common but there is also uh 20 millimeter axles for downhill bikes 20 by 100 and there's also a 20 millimeter boost axle but that's really rare um again pay attention to what axle you have most of the forks that you see laying all these forks are through axles right here and you do need to measure your hub and figure that stuff out if you want to see what a quick release axle look like that's on a little bit older bikes that's these babies right here so you could basically upgrade your fork and use a different axle standard than like what's used on there currently but you're going to have to either use adapters to modify your existing hub to get to that standard or use different front hub or front wheel as soon as jeff gets this front wheel off yeah so this is a quick release right here they're a bit older they're really flexy and there's a reason that they don't exist on high-end modern mountain bikes these days and through axles do exist so if you do have a bike with a qr axle and you're upgrading your fork two things to consider one should i upgrade the entire bike if no it's still a good frame then the next one is should i upgrade to a fork with a thru axle and then do i get an entire new front wheel an entire new wheel set or do they have available hub adapter kits for your hub may or may not happen but it is very common a lot of people run into this problem and we help people out with that situation all the time right jared that's true yeah give us a call shoot us an email ask us any questions you got

all right last but not least brake mounts this is another really important thing to figure out so your bike right now has some type of brake mounted to it if you've got a more modern high-end mountain bike it very likely has a post mount so what that means it looks like this it means that your brake caliper adapts to the fork with just two bolts that go directly into the fork right here this is a post mount these are not all created equal so most most post mounts on shorter travel forks let's say 80 to 140 mil are a 160 post mount meaning you can put a caliper on here and a 160 rotor and you need no adapter however if this is a 160 post mount for example because this particular fork is a cross country fork if you wanted to put 180 mil rotor on here um you would need a 20 millimeter adapter so keep that in mind now longer travel forks like that fox 38 right there it's got a post mount 180 or post mat 200 180 post mount 180 which means that 180 millimeter rotor goes on there and the brake caliper mounts on there no adapter again if you wanted a 200 ml rotor you need a 20 mil adapter so that's how that works figure out which post mount you have if you have post mount some of the other common types are well i don't really think they're any common post mount is the most common now years back they made what was called an is mount which is what this old guy has here that's where you have basically two bolts that go perpendicular into your adapter which goes like that then your caliper mounts to it wasn't the best design that's why they kind of got rid of it and now everything went post mount and then of course depending on the price range of your bike you might have caliper or v brakes which is what this bike has and you have mounts right here so if you do have caliper or v brakes obviously and you want to keep those brakes you got to do that or if you want to get a bike with that doesn't have those a fork without those then you need to get disc brakes and yeah a lot of things to consider here so uh hopefully that all made sense

[Music] the very last thing we have is how much should you spend in air verse coils so if you're looking at upgrading your fork there is a ton of options out there and a ton of price points we've made videos on a ton of the higher end forks we've also made a video on the best forks that you can upgrade to that are under 500 and they do change a lot so typically under 300 bucks you're going to see a lot more coil forks they're obviously going to be heavier and they're going to have less adjustments so as you sort of go up the food chain and in the price range of mountain bike suspension forks you're typically going to see them get lighter fancier in terms of more adjustments and looks and all of that sort of stuff and yeah there there could be a little bit of complexity when it comes to adjustments and which ones are necessary and which ones are not necessary but adjustments and those kind of features really do pile up on you as you get towards the higher end segment of forks and the weight typically goes down which is really cool forks have come a long way so it's definitely something to consider air versus coil that really does depend on riding style so almost everything now are air forks even a lot of downhill forks and super enduro forks up to 180 millimeters of travel like the fox 38 or air forks um coil is actually pretty common on um sort of like free ride and dirt gem forks and lesser expensive forks but mrp makes a really cool coil coil fork as well because coil is claimed to have some really interesting sensitivity features but every time coil gets really good with sensitivity the air springs kind of catch up to that sort of feature set but anyways that's that we have a lot of other videos on suspension forks comparing the different top brands and all that other stuff so check that stuff out link below in the video description thank you guys for watching hit that subscribe button and we'll see you in the next one.

June 29, 2021

Bike Knowledge › Fork › How To › Suspension › Video ›

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130mm Vs 150mm Travel

130mm Vs 150mm Travel – what’s the difference?

130mm and 150mm are both common bike wheel sizes. But what’s the difference between 130mm and 150mm travel?

130mm travel is typically found on cross country or all-mountain bikes. These bikes are designed for efficiency and are perfect for riders who want to go fast on the climbs and descend aggressively.

150mm travel is typically found on enduro or downhill bikes. These bikes are designed for more aggressive riding and offer more stability and plushness on descents.

So which one is right for you?

If you’re looking for a versatile bike that can handle a wide range of terrain, we’d recommend opting for a 130mm travel bike. These bikes are efficient and can handle everything from cross country rides to all-day adventures.

If you’re looking for a bike that’s specifically designed for more aggressive riding, we’d recommend opting for a 150mm travel bike. These bikes are built for descents and can handle even the most challenging trails.

• 1 Is 130mm fork travel enough?
• 2 Is 130mm travel enough for trail?
• 3 Is 150mm travel enough for enduro?
• 4 What does 150mm travel mean?
• 5 Is 150 mm of travel enough for downhill?
• 6 How much fork travel should I be using?
• 7 How much travel should a hardtail have?

Is 130mm fork travel enough?

130mm fork travel is commonly found on cross-country mountain bikes. Some riders might question whether or not 130mm is enough travel for aggressive riding.

The answer to that question depends on the rider’s ability and the type of terrain they are riding. For a beginner rider, 130mm of travel is more than enough for trail riding and even some light downhill. Experienced riders might find that 130mm of travel is limiting when riding more aggressive trails.

The frame and fork of a mountain bike are two important factors to consider when deciding how much travel is needed. A frame that is designed for a 130mm fork will typically have a shorter wheelbase and be lighter weight. This frame will also be less forgiving when ridden over rough terrain. A frame that is designed for a 150mm fork will be heavier weight and have a longer wheelbase. This frame will be more forgiving when ridden over rough terrain.

The type of terrain that a rider is riding is another important factor to consider when deciding how much travel is needed. A rider who is only riding on XC trails will not need as much travel as a rider who is riding on downhill trails. A rider who is only riding on paved roads does not need a mountain bike at all.

In conclusion, 130mm of fork travel is enough for some riders and not enough for others. Riders should consider their ability, the type of terrain they are riding, and the frame and fork of their mountain bike when deciding how much travel they need.

Is 130mm travel enough for trail?

130mm of travel is a popular choice for mountain bikes, but is it enough for trail riding? This is a question that many riders ask themselves, and the answer is not always clear.

There are a few things to consider when deciding if 130mm of travel is right for you. First, what type of trails will you be riding? If you plan to ride mostly cross country trails, 130mm of travel may be more than you need. However, if you plan to ride more aggressive trails with more obstacles and drops, 130mm of travel may not be enough.

Second, consider your weight and ability. If you are a lightweight rider, 130mm of travel may be more than you need. Conversely, if you are a heavier rider, you may need more travel to ensure a smooth and comfortable ride.

Ultimately, the best way to decide if 130mm of travel is right for you is to try a bike with that amount of travel and see how it feels. If you are not happy with the ride, you can always upgrade to a bike with more travel.

Is 150mm travel enough for enduro?

This is a question that a lot of riders are asking themselves as they consider buying a new bike or upgrading their old one. The answer, of course, is that it depends.

Enduro is a fast-growing discipline that combines the downhill excitement of mountain biking with the cross-country efficiency of trail riding. The idea is to cover as much ground as possible as quickly as possible, and to have as much fun as possible while doing it.

In order to do that, you need a bike that is both fast and capable. A bike with 150mm of travel can be both of those things, but it all depends on the rider’s ability and the type of terrain that they are riding.

For a beginner or an intermediate rider, 150mm of travel is more than enough for enduro. The bike will be able to handle most of the challenges that you will encounter on the trail, and it will also be fast and efficient enough to allow you to cover a lot of ground.

However, for a more experienced rider or for someone who is looking to ride more challenging terrain, 150mm of travel may not be enough. In those cases, you may need to consider a bike with more travel or one that is specifically designed for enduro.

Ultimately, the decision on how much travel you need depends on your own abilities and the type of terrain that you plan to ride. If you are just getting started in enduro, 150mm is more than enough. But if you are looking to take your riding to the next level, you may need something with more travel.

What does 150mm travel mean?

When people are talking about mountain bikes, they might mention the amount of travel that the bike has. This number is usually referring to the amount of suspension that the bike has. The higher the number, the more suspension the bike has. This is important because it affects the way the bike rides.

Bikes that have more travel tend to be more comfortable and can handle rougher terrain better. They are also generally more expensive. If you are new to mountain biking, it might be a good idea to start out with a bike that has less travel. This will help you to become more comfortable with the sport before upgrading to a bike that has more travel.

If you are looking for a mountain bike that has a lot of travel, there are a few things that you should keep in mind. First of all, you need to make sure that the bike is capable of handling the terrain that you are going to be riding on. You also need to make sure that you are strong enough to handle the bike.

Bikes with a lot of travel can be a lot of fun to ride, but they can also be a bit challenging. Make sure that you are up for the challenge before you invest in a bike with a lot of travel.

Is 150 mm of travel enough for downhill?

When it comes to downhill mountain biking, there’s no question that more travel is better. But is 150 mm enough?

For downhill mountain biking, you want as much travel as possible. This is the distance the bike will move up and down when you hit a bump or jump. The more travel you have, the smoother the ride.

Most downhill bikes have around 200 mm of travel. But is 150 mm enough?

For a beginner, 150 mm of travel is more than enough. It will give you a smooth ride and allow you to tackle smaller bumps and jumps.

But if you’re an experienced downhill mountain biker, you may want to consider a bike with more travel. A bike with more travel will give you a smoother ride on larger bumps and jumps.

So is 150 mm of travel enough for downhill? For a beginner, it’s more than enough. But if you’re an experienced downhill mountain biker, you may want to consider a bike with more travel.

How much fork travel should I be using?

That is a question that can be difficult to answer, as it depends on a variety of factors such as the type of terrain you are riding, your weight, and the style of riding you prefer. However, here is a general guide to help you choose the right amount of fork travel for your needs.

If you are a beginner or occasional rider, you will likely be happiest with a fork that has around 80-100mm of travel. This will provide enough forgiveness on bumpy terrain and will help to keep you upright and in control.

If you are a more experienced rider or you prefer to ride aggressively, you may want to consider a fork with more travel, such as 120-140mm. This will give you more control over your bike when riding over rough terrain and will help to reduce the impact of bumps and drops.

It is also important to keep in mind that a fork with more travel will be heavier and more difficult to control than a fork with less travel. So, you should always choose the amount of travel that is best suited to your own riding style and preferences.

How much travel should a hardtail have?

This is a question that many riders ask themselves when looking for a new bike. And it’s a valid question – after all, a hardtail’s limited suspension travel is one of the main factors that distinguishes it from a full-suspension mountain bike.

So, what’s the right amount of travel for a hardtail?

That depends on the type of riding you want to do. If you’re mainly interested in cross-country racing or riding on smooth, fast trails, then a hardtail with around 100mm of suspension travel should be perfect.

But if you want to ride more aggressively on more technical trails, then you’ll need a bike with more travel. A hardtail with around 120-130mm of suspension will be better suited to this type of riding.

Of course, there are also hardtails with even more travel – up to 140mm or more. These bikes are ideal for riders who want to ride aggressively on more challenging trails. But they’re not suitable for everyone, so you need to be sure that you’re comfortable with the extra weight and complexity that comes with a bike like this.

Ultimately, the amount of travel you need on your hardtail depends on the riding you do and your own personal preferences. So, it’s a good idea to try out a few different bikes to see which one feels best for you.

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