albanian riviera road trip

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Albania Itinerary | 7 days in the Albanian Riviera

The Albanian Riviera is one of the most up-and-coming destinations in Europe , offering something for everyone. With the perfect blend of stunning beaches, charming coastal villages, rich historical sites, and next level hospitality, there are so many reasons why you should visit . This 7 day Albania Riviera itinerary will dive into all the best spots for you to visit in Albania, with insider tips on where to go and what to do in Albania, and act as the perfect Albania Road Trip Guide for you.

PS – Useful Travel Resources that will help you plan better for your Trip to Albania  – 

• Book your Europe train tickets at Omio or Trainline
• Book your Rental Car in Albania on Discover Cars and RentalCars.com
• Book the best Albania Tours at GetYourGuide or Viator
• Book the best Culinary / Food Experiences in Europe on EatWith
• Book your Accommodation in Albania on Agoda or Booking.com
• Book your flights at the cheapest rates on Kiwi.com
• Get an eSIM by Airalo to stay connected and Save on Roaming Fees
• Sign up for a Priority Pass before flying to Albania, to enjoy premium Airport Lounge Access.
• Sign up for a Travel Insurance to enjoy a hassle free vacation in Albania.

Days 1-3: Ksamil

Days 3-4: borsh, days 4-6: himara, days 6-7: dhermi, 7 day albania road trip itinerary – faq’s, share this:, 7 day albania road trip itinerary .

Your Albanian Riviera holiday will likely start in Tirana, the country’s main airport. From here, we recommend you hire a car to drive to the first stop in this 7 day Albania itinerary: Ksamil. It’s a 4 hour drive from Tirana, though there’s several places you can stop along the way, including Vlore, Gjirokastra, and the Blue Eye.

Gjirokastra | Photo by Abenteuer Albanien on Unsplash

Once you arrive, check into your hotel and freshen up before heading straight off to the beach for sunset. As the Albanian coast is west facing, you’re almost guaranteed spectacular sunsets right over the sea every night. 

Ksamil is known for its vibrant beach clubs and spectacular beaches.

Spoiler alert: these are the most beautiful beaches in the whole of Albania in our opinion!

With white stony sand and sparkling turquoise sea, it honestly feels like you’ve been transported to South East Asia, not the Mediterranean! 

On your first full day in Ksamil, we’d recommend heading slightly out of town to either Pulebardha or Pasqyra beaches. They’re a little quieter than the beaches directly in town and, in our opinion, are the most beautiful. 

Hire a sun lounger for 1000 Albanian Lek each, lay back, and relax with the sound of the waves lapping at the shore. Both of these beaches have onsite restaurants which we can highly recommend – the food is fresh and delicious! Plus, you can have drinks and ice lollies brought directly to your sunbed: pure bliss.

Ksamil | Photo by Bleron Salihi on Unsplash

Once you’re done sunning yourself, spend a few hours in the afternoon wandering around Butrint National Park. This UNESCO world heritage site offers a unique insight into the history of the area, as it brings together Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Venetian influences.

Butrint National Park | Photo by Bleron Salihi on Unsplash

In the evening, head to one of the many trendy beach clubs lining the seafront for a cocktail (or two) in beautiful surroundings. We’d recommend Poda Beach House for its chic vibe and plenty of insta ops – in fact you’ve probably seen it on social media yourself!

Start your third day with a dip in one of Ksamil’s main beaches, with views over one of the four islands. If you get up early, you’ll be treated to pure serenity, with the beaches completely to yourselves. Spend the morning relaxing at the beach before taking a 1hr 15 minute drive to your next destination.

Borsh is just a 1hr 15 minute drive from Ksamil, and yet it offers a completely different vibe to the popular beach town. Borsh beach is huge, stretching for over 7km. Unlike Ksamil, there are plenty of spots in Borsh where you can lay a towel and relax on the sand, rather than having to hire a sun lounger.

There is plenty of parking at Borsh beach itself, with several quiet beach bars offering food and drinks, with amazing hospitality. 

Borsh is the perfect place to just spend a day chilling after Ksamil. We found there were very few tourists in Borsh, with the vast majority of people being Albanian, offering a really authentic feel and a chance to immerse yourself in the Albanian culture. We were told by a tour guide in Tirana that this was his absolute favourite beach in the whole of Albania, and we have to agree, it’s beautiful. 

Check into your hotel, spend some time relaxing in the family-friendly ambiance and interacting with the locals, before setting off again around midday the next day.

For days 4-6 of your Albanian Riviera itinerary you will be basing yourself in Himara, a little further up the coast. It’s approximately a 25 minute drive to Himara from Borsh, though we’d recommend stopping halfway to checkout the fortress of Porto Palermo, built by Ali Pasha in 1804. Head inside to learn more about the fascinating history of Albania.

The Fortress of Porto Palermo

Once you arrive in Himara, find a space to park your car up and head straight into the trendy town to explore. Car parking should cost between 300-500 lek for 3-5 hours. With a beautiful promenade along the beach, lined with cafes and restaurants, it’s the perfect place for a stroll. Pick up some souvenirs and postcards to send home, before heading to Pasticeri Delight for the best ice cream in Himara! It costs just 100 lek per scoop and it is honestly divine. 

On day 5 of your Albania itinerary, get up early and drive to Livadhi, just a few minutes down the road, before hiking to Aquarium Beach. It should take you around 30 minutes to reach Aquarium beach and the hike is not too strenuous, though we would recommend sensible footwear as the path is a little uneven. 

Aquarium Beach is the most stunning little cove, with warm, sparkling turquoise water, cliffs to jump off, and fish to snorkel amongst. As it is relatively inaccessible by car (unless you have a 4×4), it remains quiet until around 10am, with no sun loungers, noise pollution, or facilities. Find a spot to lay your towel, grab a good book, and relax in this Mediterranean oasis. 

The beauty of Albanian Riviera

Around midday the beach will start to get very busy and, honestly, not so tranquil. At this point, walk back to Livadhi where you can either spend the afternoon sunbathing on Livadhi beach, a beautiful sandy beach with deep sea to swim in, or head back to Himara beach. Both of these beaches are super chilled, and you have the option of hiring a sunbed if you wish. Himara beach even has free beach umbrellas for you to use!

The food in Himara has strong Greek and Italian influences, and for dinner, we’d recommend heading to Valentino Restaurant. The food is fresh and delicious, the views over the sea are incredible, and the staff are so friendly.

Set another early alarm on day 6 of this 7 Day Albania Road Trip Itinerary, and drive around 40 minutes to Gjipe Beach, a gem along the Albanian Riviera. You’ll need to park near the Holy Monastery of St. Theodore as the last stretch of road is only accessible by 4×4. The walk from there should take no more than half an hour.

Gjipe Beach is nestled at the end of a 2km canyon, with cliffs towering high around it, and the deep blue Ionian Sea lapping at the shore. The natural beauty of this beach, surrounded by lush greenery, is why it’s absolutely worth visiting. It’s quite popular, hence we recommend arriving early, and has a small restaurant and toilet facilities.

After spending a couple of hours on Gjipe Beach, hike back to your car and continue driving for around 20 minutes to reach Dhermi, where you’ll spend your last night on the Albanian Riviera.

Before heading to your accommodation, park in the Old Town where you’ll be able to explore a sleepy authentic Albanian hill side town, with the most stunning views over the sea. Climb up to the Monastery of St. Mary at the top of the Old Town for the best vantage point.

Head to Dhermi beach, a short drive away from the Old Town, for a late lunch in a luxurious beach-front bar that will have you believing you’re in Bali. 

Dhermi beach is similar to Himara in that there are sections that are covered in sunloungers for you to hire, and sections that are kept clear for sunbathers who’d rather relax on a towel (and save a bit of money!). It offers the perfect balance between luxury and authenticity, with locals loving to stop for a chat and offer you tips on where to visit. This is without a doubt the best place to end your 7 day Albanian Riviera itinerary, and flying out of Albania to your next travel destination.

Do I need a car to visit Albania?

Whilst a car is not essential to explore the Albanian Riviera, we would highly recommend one in order to make the most out of your time and to avoid hassle. Many beaches are only accessible by car, and the bus system in Albania is notoriously unreliable, so we would highly recommend hiring a car in Tirana before starting this trip.

Where is the best nightlife in the Albanian Riviera?

The award for best nightlife in the Albanian Riviera has to go to Ksamil. With numerous trendy bars and nightclubs, there are plenty of opportunities to enjoy yourself and meet other travellers on a night out. With venues getting busy around 10pm, head out early to get the most out of your night.

Is Albania expensive?

When compared to other popular beach destinations in the Mediterranean, Albania is a relatively affordable country. In fact, it is one of the Cheapest Countries in Europe. With accommodation costs starting at just £20 per night and a meal out setting you back less than £10, it is very easy to travel Albania on a budget. That being said, if you prefer something a little fancier, there are plenty of high grade hotels and restaurants to splurge on. Albania really is as cheap or as expensive as you make it!

7 Day Albanian Riviera Itinerary – Summary

Day 1 | Arrival in Albania | Head to Ksamil

Day 2 | Explore Ksamil

Day 3 | Relax in Ksamil | Head to Borsh and spend the day by the beach

Day 4 | Head to Himara

Day 5 | Drive to Livadhi | Hike to Aquarium Beach

Day 6 | Drive to Gjipe Beach | Head to Dhermi | Explore Dhermi

Day 7 | Departure from Albania

The Albanian Riviera, located in southwestern Albania, is a beautiful stretch of coastline known for its stunning beaches, crystal clear waters, and impressive cliffs. It’s a favourite spot for tourists worldwide, offering something for everyone.

This 7-day Albania Road Trip itinerary, which has been rated as one of the Most Scenic Road Trips in Europe , sees you visiting four of the most beautiful and popular towns: Ksamil, Borsh, Himara, and Dhermi. Each town has its own unique character and charm, and you’re sure to have a wonderful time exploring them all.

Feel free to adjust the plan based on your interests and budget. If you love hiking, consider more time at Gjipe Canyon. If you’re on a tight budget, you could stay in hostels or guesthouses and cook your own meals.

No matter how you choose to spend your time, you’re sure to have the best time on the Albanian Riviera. It is a beautiful and affordable destination with something to offer everyone.

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• Family Travel

Albanian Road Trip on the Albanian Riviera

If you are thinking of heading to Albania for a holiday but unsure about car hire in Albania or driving in Albania then check out our post. After spending 10 days driving around the Albanian Riviera here are our trips for an Albanian Road Trip for a family holiday.

Albania is fastly growing in popularity and it is easy to see why. From stunningly, beautiful beaches to delicious food, wonderful weather and friendly people. Not to mention the cost, Albania is the perfect budget-friendly holiday. All the reasons why we are going back for another holiday this year (Aug 2023).

Is it Safe to Drive in Albania?

Driving in Albania is completely fine, coming from Dubai where there is a lot of dangerous driving and big roads I found the roads in Albania easy to navigate. Drivers seemed to be pretty sensible and we didn’t have any issues with road rage!

Make sure to follow the speed limits and have your driving licence on you at all times as there are a lot of police along the roads. We didn’t get pulled over but we did hear stories of how the police lie in wait to catch people speeding and give them on the spot cash fines.

How do I get to Albania?

We always say it, the easiest way to arrive in Albania is to get a flight to Corfu. Pretty much all the budget airlines and many others in the UK fly to Corfu. Once you are in Corfu it is super easy to jump in a taxi to the ferry port and get the 30minute ferry over to Saranda, Albania .

Read our post here for all the information on the Corfu to Saranda ferry .

Alternatively, you can fly to Tirana, a few airlines fly from London to Tirana and then you would need to hire a car to drive south to the Albanian Riviera.

If you are flying from the UAE both Wizz Air and Fly Dubai offer direct flights to Tirana.

Car Hire in Albania

It is possible to get cheap car rental in Albania if you hire from a local company. There are many car rental places in Saranada so it would be easy to rent a car in Albania as soon as you arrive, if you are arriving from Corfu. This is the best route to take for an Albanian road trip in the Albanian Riviera. Search below for Local Car Hire companies to get the best rates in Albania.

Alternatively, if you are flying into Tirana then the airport will have the usual big car rental brands like Hertz, Avis, Europ Car etc. You can check out the best prices from Tirana at this link.

First Stop on your Albanian Road Trip – Saranda

Ideally you will be arriving in Albania from Corfu on the Corfu to Saranda ferry. ( Click here to check out our blog post with all the information if you haven’t read it already! ).

If you are looking to buy tickets for the Corfu to Saranda ferry then we recommend using Direct Ferries where we always buy our tickets. You can find the link here.

Once you have arrived in Saranda, spend a few nights here in the town along the coast to explore Saranda. The coastline is beautiful and there are many great restaurants and bars to explore in the evenings.

We highly recommend staying in Villa Skenderi which is along the coast road on the way to Ksamil.

You can read all about our stay in Saranda with kids here where you can also find some restaurants and recommendations also.

Second stop on your Albania road trip – Ksamil

Nearby Ksamil (only about 20minutes drive from Saranda) is a must-see. Ksamil is what all the guide books are calling the European Maldives. Here are the most sandy beaches on the Albanian Riviera. Expect to find coves and small sandy beaches, busy with sun loungers to rent (inexpensive considering the location, views and comparison to the rest of Europe).

Hire a boat and explore the 3 islands, lounge around and visit some of the beautiful restaurants and experience the delightful Albanian food – make sure to try the mussels. We loved Guvat Bar for the views and food.

You could tie in your time in Saranda and Ksamil by just staying in one location and driving between the two towns as they are so close.

There are many hotels and apartments for all budgets in Ksamil but some that we recommend are Kuburi Hotel if you are looking for a pool, Villa Abedini for a basic room with a balcony or Hotel Mira Mare if you are looking for something a little special with their suites and sea views.

Third Stop on your Albanian Road Trip – Gjirokaster

The journey from Ksamil to Gjirokaster is around 68km which takes about 1hr 15minutes. The driving conditions are good with well maintained roads. The road takes you through the Albanian countryside through fields and mountains which makes for a pleasant trip.

There are many petrol stations along the way where you can stop for snacks and to stretch your legs if needs be.

Once you arrive in Gjirokaster you will be in the new town, this area we did not explore at all as it was a pretty standard town. You will need to drive uphill (get your clutch control ready!) through the cobbled streets to the old town of Gjirokaster, or the Stone City.

Make sure to visit The Barrels restaurant Gjirokaster. Read our post here on why we think it is the best restaurant Albania .

We highly recommend staying at Hotel Gjirokaster during your time in Gjirokaster. It is at the foot of Gjirokastra castle and a 2 minute walk to the main area and the old bazaar Gjirokaster or Qafa e Pazarit as it is known to locals. Hotel Gjirokaster is cheap, the breakfast is fantastic and the people running it very helpful. We spent 3 nights in Gjirokaster but you could always do it in 1 or 2 nights if you prefer more time on the coast of the Albanian Riviera.

For recommendations and what to do during your time in Gjirokaster, check out our post on the Best Things to Do In Gjirokaster.

Fourth Stop on your Albania Road Trip – The Blue Eye

We chose to stop at the The Blue Eye on our way back down to the coast from Gjirokaster as it broke up the journey. However, you could stop here on your way to Gjirokaster if that suits you better. The Blue Eye is located about half way between Saranda and Gjirokaster so it is only around a 30-40minute drive.

Whatever you decide to do, make sure you arrive early! The parking gets really full and it takes a lot to navigate your way out of the line of cars queuing up to get in.

The Blue Eye or Syri i Kalter is a natural water spring. It is such a popular place to stop because it’s simply beautiful. A very deep pool with a cave under the water that pumps up fresh water, watch out – it is ice cold! Swimming here is not allowed, however we did manage to have a little paddle just to see how cold and fresh the water was. There are some people diving in but there are signs everywhere saying do not swim.

You can read all the information about Blue Eye Albania in our post here.

When you arrive at the parking for Blue Eye make sure you have cash with you as there is a nominal charge to enter the national park 100LEK per person. You will then have to walk around 2km along a path to reach the pools. Electric scooters are available to hire too and you can see lots of young people hiring them and sharing the scooters to zip down there quicker.

There is a balcony and viewing area over the pools, the water is breathtaking to look at. Stop in the little cafe and have a cold drink or an ice cream and admire the view before heading back.

Fifth Stop on your Road Trip Albania – Dhermi Beach

After leaving the Blue Eye you will continue your Albanian Road Trip back through Saranda and up the West Coast of Albania in Vlore. You will pass through the towns of Borsh and Himare until you get to Dhermi. Get ready for some amazing views. We pulled in at many a service road or view point to get out and admire the stunning Albanian Riviera views.

Himare looks like a beautiful town with a huge beach, so if you have extra time in Albania you could include a few nights in Himare.

We chose Dhermi as it has one of the longest beaches along the coast, it has a promenade full of restaurants and bars and made a great relaxing few days after Gjirokaster. We enjoyed a slower pace of life in Dhermi Beach before heading back to Saranda. Returning the car hire in Saranda and getting the ferry back to Corfu.

For more information about Dhermi Beach check out our post here.

Where else can I go on my Albania road trip?

Some other places on our list but we didn’t get to on this trip were Vlore and Berat . Vlore is the third largest city, has a large beach and promenade. Berat is a traditional town known as the town of a thousand windows because of the large amount of houses overlooking the town. Both look like great additions to an Albanian road trip.

If you have enjoyed this post an Albanian road trip for the Albanian Riviera then check out our Albania Guide . For all the information about arriving in Albania check out the Corfu to Saranda Ferry . Saranda with kids , Dhermi Beach and Best things to do in Gjirokaster for all our recommendations.

If you are looking to spend some time in Corfu whilst in Albania then check out is Corfu Old Town worth visiting ? The best all inclusive hotel in Corfu and Paxos and Antipaxos boat trip .

For other family travel inspiration check out our Destinations Page for all our other trips.

Disclaimer:  This post  Albanian Road Trip on the Albanian Riviera,  has affiliate links  and any sales made through such links will reward me a small commission – at no extra cost for you .

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Albania Itinerary: An Epic 2 Week Albania Road Trip from Alps to Riviera & Ohrid Lake

This 2 Week Albania Itinerary covers the Albanian Riviera, historical Ottoman-era towns, the capital Tirana and gorgeous off-the-beaten path destinations in the South and East of Albania (including lake Ohrid) . My Albania road trip route also includes the best places to see and things to do in each location, accommodation options, transportation, driving times and distances, places to eat, and other handy Albania travel tips.

If you have more time to travel in Albania, I also provide an extended 3 week in Albania route which includes the Northern side of the country- the Albanian Alps with the Valbona-Theth hike . Two alternative routes are also included in this guide: a 2-week itinerary from Albanian Alps to Albanian Riviera and 2 weeks in Albanian Alps all the way to Lake Ohrid .

Albania is not yet under many tourists’ radar. However, a good word is spreading and interest in visiting Albania is growing faster each year. Underdog of the Balkans, having been closed from the rest of the world for more than 40 years, Albania is probably one of the most understated countries in Southern Europe. It is no surprise that mentioning Albania as my travel choice, made many eyes roll. Despite that, I have visited Albania twice so far.

Albania will be a dream place for those of you seeking an authentic, a little rustic, untouched by social media, and also a very affordable travel experience in Europe that combines lots of beautiful nature, culture, history, and adventure. 

The country is still in the transition period. From being chained by the communist regime for several decades, completely closed from the outside world to suddenly being exposed to it, there is definitely a lot to take in and figure out for the Albanian people. Nonetheless, Albania is extremely welcoming to foreign visitors and surprisingly easy to travel around. 

Located in south-eastern Europe, Albania is scarred by dramatic history but blessed with incredible nature- from turquoise waters of Adriatic and Ionian coasts , deep canyons, refreshing lakes, and gushing rivers, to breathtaking Albanian Alps inviting for some of the best hikes in the Balkans.

Meanwhile, the UNESCO-listed Berat and Gjirokastër towns are perfect places for those who love traveling back in time, history, and beautiful old architecture. 

Based on my traveling in Albania experience, here is my modified itinerary, part of which can be done using public transport (buses and minivans) and the rest of it as a road trip in a rental car . Although public connections are available to all the places mentioned in this guide, they are not as frequent and convenient as self-driving. 

RELATED READS: Driving in Albania- everything you need to know before renting a car.

Keep on reading this day-by-day Albania Itinerary for the best places to see, things to do , and what to skip. Plan your own perfect trip to Albania with my practical traveling in Albania tips, including recommended accommodation in Albania, how to get around, as well as driving times and distances between each leg of the trip, and last but not least- great places to eat in each destination. 

Disclaimer:  This post contains affiliate links, which means that I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). This helps to keep my blog running and growing by creating more awesome free content for you.

2-week Albania Itinerary for a Perfect Road Trip (extendable to 3 weeks)

Albania itinerary overview.

• Day 1: Tirana
• Day 2: Tirana-Berat
• Day 3: Berat
• Day 4: Berat-Himara
• Day 5: Himara (visit Dhermi and Gjipe) 
• Day 6: Himara (visit Borsh) 
• Day 7: Himara- Gjirokaster
• Day 8: Gjirokaster
• Day 9: Gjirokaster- Permet
• Day 10: Permet – Korca
• Day 11: Korca- Lin
• Day 12: Lin
• Day 13: Lin-Tirana
• Day 14: Tirana

Extended 3-week Albania itinerary

• Day 15: Tirana – Shkodra (Shkoder) 
• Day 16: Shkodra-Komani Lake Ferry-Valbona
• Day 17: Valbona Pass hike to Theth
• Day 18: Theth
• Day 19: Theth-Shkodra
• Day 20: Shkodra- Kruje
• Day 21: Kruje-Tirana

Albania Itinerary Map

Albania travel essentials

• My TOP TIP : The best way to explore Albania is by self-driving. Look for the best rental car rates at Localrent or Discover Cars .
• Best flight deals: Use Skyscanner to find the cheapest and fastest flights to Albania from your location.
• Accommodation: book your perfect stay using Booking.com .
• Before You Go: 90-day tourist visa is free for most nationalities; if not apply for an Albania visa easily at iVisa .
• Travel insurance : for safe traveling in Albania. Get a quote at SafetyWing or World Nomads .
• Guided tours: look for the best-rated Albania tours on Viator .
• Local SIM Card: Get a sim at the Tirana airport arrivals hall. The best coverage is provided by Vodafone. A tourist pack with 70 GB of data and free local calls costs 2000 LEK (17 EUR).

Recommended guided day tours in Albania:

• Tirana Walking Tour with Food Tasting (5/5 Viator)
• Rafting in Osumi Canyons (5/5 Viator)
• Kayaking and hiking Valbona Pass in 4 days from Tirana (5/5 Viator)
• Pearls of Albania in 8 days (5/5 Viator) – for those who prefer everything organized this tour covers almost all the main highlights of Albania .

About this Albania road trip itinerary

How much time to spend in albania.

This Albania itinerary is created based on my two separate trips. One of them covered 2 weeks of exploring the central, southern, and eastern parts of the country, while the other was focused on visiting the Northern side of Albania for one week.

To see all the places mentioned in this guide you will definitely need 3 weeks in Albania. 

The first two weeks in Albania route is planned as a loop starting and finishing in the capital Tirana. Meanwhile, an extended itinerary adds one week in Albania coving the Northern side-Shkoder and the Albanian Alps.

If you do not have 3 weeks to spare for your trip to Albania and feel like mixing and matching some of the places, or cutting off some time spent in one of the locations and adding more time to the other, you can definitely do so.

My main advice is- do not try seeing the whole country in a short period of time. Logistically and in time wise it would be simply impossible. You can modify this Albania route depending on what you love exploring the most- is it mountains, beaches, historical towns, or bustling cities?

By reading the details about each location on my Albania itinerary route, you will get a good idea if the place is your cup of tea (or coffee).

To give you more inspiration on how to best schedule the trip, I have created two alternative 2-week in Albania route suggestions, where I mixed around parts of the original route. I share those at end of this post.

Also, bear in mind the time of the year that you choose to travel to Albania. For example, the Valbona-Theth hike is seasonal and can be done from late May to early October. Outside these months trail might not be passable, so you have to take this into account when planning.

RELATED READS: Read my detailed post about Valbona-Theth hike in Albanian Alps.

How to get around Albania? Transportation used in this Albania route

Although the whole trip could be completed using public transport only I would strongly recommend renting a car for visiting the Albanian Riviera. Also, the southern and eastern parts of Albania have a lot of beautiful corners reachable only by car, while public transport is sparse. Meanwhile, you can absolutely get away without a car in the section of the route covering the Northern side of Albania. 

On my two-week trip to Albania, I picked up the rental car a few days later into the trip as I did not need it for Tirana and the mountain town Berat which I reached using public transport.

Instead of Tirana airport, I hired a car from the port town of Durres because it was more convenient for continuing the trip to the Albanian Riviera. However, this choice might not be for everyone and usually, travellers rent a car at Tirana Airport upon arrival. If you don’t want the hassle of using public transport I would advise doing just that. 

Renting a car in Albania

My recommended place to get the best car rental deals in Albania is Localrent search aggregator. It caters to local car providers and therefore terms and conditions for hiring a car are much more favorable. The deposit is in cash and can be as low as 50 EUR, sometimes none. I rented a car using Localrent and had a great experience. 

The other website I also use when travelling is Discovercars as they also have some of the best deals on the internet (in case Localrent runs out of supply).

• Click here for the best car rental deals with Localrent
• Click here to compare prices with Discovercars.

RELATED READS: Also read my guide to driving in Albania for all the information and questions you may have about hiring a car in Albania. 

Where to stay in Albania- quick links

For your reference, below is a list of recommended accommodations in each location of this Albania itinerary. Please refer for more details under each destination.

• Where to stay in Tirana: Maritim Plaza Hotel (high-end); Galeria Apartment (mid-range); Tirana Backpaker Hostel (budget).
• Where to stay in Berat: Timo’s Guesthouse (boutique homestay); Hani I Xheblatit (boutique hotel); Berat Backpakers Hostel (budget).
• Where to stay in Himara: Prado Luxury Hotel (luxury); Amphora Guesthouse &Apartments (mid-range); Filikur Hostel Himare (budget).
• Where to stay in Gjirokaster: Kerculla Resort (high-end); Boutique Hotel Musee (boutique); Konaku Guest House (mid-range); Stone rooms 1850 (budget)
• Where to stay in Permet: Villa Permet (high-end); Traditional Guest House Permet (mid-range); The Mozaik House (mid-range)
• Where to stay in Korca: Hani I Pazarit Boutique Hotel (luxury boutique); IN Gallery & Spa (high-end); Villa Domenico (mid-range); Petro’s Apartment (budget).
• Where to stay in Lin: Guest House Lin (mid-range); Rosa B&B (budget)
• Where to stay in Shkoder: Hotel Tradita (boutique); Hotel-Legjenda (mid-range); All Seasons Apartment (mid-range); The Wanderers Hostel (budget).
• Where to stay in Valbona: Villas Jezersca (mid-range).
• Where to stay in Theth : Guest House Bec Villi (guesthouse); Guest House Marashi (mid-range).
• Where to stay in Kruja: Hotel Panorama Kruje (high-end); Rooms EMILIANO (mid-range)

Albania Itinerary Day-by-Day

Day 1: tirana (overnight in tirana) .

Tirana is the capital of Albania and it is also the only city that has an international airport. Therefore, it is likely your entry point will be Airport Nënë Tereza , also often called Rinas International Airport (TIA). 

Tirana is an up-and-coming European city known for its colorful buildings, street art and murals, vibrant coffee shop, and bar scene. Although not a pretty city, but definitely with a distinctive character and turbulent history, Tirana is worth to be explored for at least a full day.

All main sites in Tirana are within walking distance and most of them are located around Skanderbeg Square . 

I recommended joining 2 hours free walking tour which starts in Skanderbeg Square in front of the Opera house daily at 10 AM. The guides are knowledgeable and will give a good insight into Albania’s past and put many things into perspective. 

• If you prefer a more in-depth and smaller group tour, you may want to check out this 6 hours Tirana Walking Tour which combines food experience and includes breakfast and lunch.

The most important and interesting places to visit in Tirana are:

– BunkArt1 and BunkArt2 museums set up in real communist era bunkers. Detailed exhibitions explain the dark history of Albania during the communist regime. 

– Blloku District- a former compound for important communist politicians now turned into to coolest area filled with trendy cafes and bars.

– Spot the colorful buildings and beautiful murals of Tirana which are dotted all around the city. The initiative to awaken the grey apartment blocks by re-painting them in funky colorful patterns was Tirana’s Mayor idea. This makeover makes the capital of Albania stand out as one of the most colorful European towns. 

– Take a cable car ride to Dajti mountain 1600 meters above sea level. The elevated views over the city of Tirana and the surrounding mountain range are unbeatable.

READ MORE: make sure to check my Tirana city guide- a n itinerary of the best things to do in Tirana for 1-2 days .

Where to eat in Tirana

• Traditional Albanian food at restaurant Oda is reasonably priced and makes delicious stuffed eggplants.
• For the best coffee and funky art deco interior go to Coin, and try guarida- cinnamon-infused sweet espresso macchiato. 

Where to stay in Tirana

• High-end: Maritim Plaza Hotel – one of the newest hotels in the heart of Tirana, offers a luxury 5-star hotel experience, sauna, and baths overlooking the city. Click here for prices and availability.
• Boutique: La Suite Boutique Hotel -modern and sheek boutique hotel close to Blloku, Pyramid of Tirana, and Lana River. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: Hotel Restaurant Bujtina e Gjelit – featuring a courtyard with a pool, an in-house restaurant serving local and international dishes, an art gallery, and traditionally decorated rooms, this hotel will make you feel like you left the city. Yet it is in close proximity to the center. Click here to check prices and availability.
• Apartments: Galeria Apartment – an airy self-contained apartment that can host up to 6 people, with private free parking, a beautiful terrace overlooking central Tirana, walking distance from all main attractions in town, including a modern shopping mall. Click here for prices and availability.
• Apartments: Bujtina Shqiptare – I stayed here and loved the huge size of the self-contained apartment that has everything you need-fully equipped kitchen and washing machine, also a balcony overlooking Tirana and the mountains. Only 700 meters from Skanderbeg square, with shops and restaurants around, it is a perfect place to stay in Tirana for a few days. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Tirana Backpaker Hostel -laid back and cozy hostel offering mixed dorms and private rooms, a 10-minute walk from Skanderbeg Square. Click here for prices and availability.

Day 2-3: Tirana- Berat (2 nights in Berat)

• Distance: 120 KM from Skanderbeg Square
• Driving time: 2 HRS

UNESCO heritage-listed Berat is a charming Ottoman-era town. Also, called a town of “thousand windows” due to its unique architecture, Berat features two historical neighborhoods divided by the river Osum.

Gorica , the Christian side, and Mangalem , the Muslim side that extends up to the castle quarter, form the old part of Berat. 

Berat is possibly the most magical historical town in Albania. Wandering the maze of narrow cobblestone streets, watching locals ride old school bicycles and play chess, climbing up the Berat castle to catch panoramic views at sunset, and last but not least eating the best foods at Lili’s home-made food restaurant are some of the wonderful things you can do in Berat. 

If you have more time to spare, there are a few fantastic natural attractions to explore outside the city. Osumi canyon and the waterfalls , or even hiking the mighty Tomorri summit .

Where to eat in Berat

• Lili’s Homemade Food Restaurant is hands down the best restaurant in Albania- the food is unbeatable, while the host Lili is one of a kind. Make sure to reserve well in advance as the word had already spread and the restaurant has only 5 tables.
• Pasticeri Tori Berat – best ice cream and ice cream-based desserts in town.
• Gimi Café – serves fantastic coffee and pancakes.

Places to stay in Berat

• Boutique Home Stay: Timo’s Guesthouse – a homestay in a traditional Ottoman house in Mangalem area features unbeatable terrace views over the Gorica quarter, the best breakfast you can expect, and, of course, unmatched hospitality from the hosts. I stayed here twice and would do it again. Click here for prices and availability.
• Boutique Hotel: Hani I Xheblatit – located in Mangalem area, boasting a restaurant, bar, and beautiful shared terrace this hotel provides nicely decorated traditional Albanian family rooms, exceptional breakfast, and free parking also included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Berat Backpakers Hostel – Located in Gorica quarter, this nice hostel provides mixed dorms and family rooms, a shared kitchen, and a terrace. Click here for prices and availability.

Getting to Berat from Tirana by bus: frequent buses and minibusses (every 30-60 minutes) are available from South and North Tirana Bus Terminal ( Terminali i Autobusave të Jugut dhe Veriut ), the exact location here . The ticket price is 500 LEK, and the journey takes 2 hrs 15min or longer depending on the traffic. In Berat, the final stop is Berat Bus Terminal ( Terminale i Autobusave ) located 3 kilometers from the old town. From the station, across the road, you can catch a city bus for 30 LEK per person or a taxi for around 400-500 LEK.

Day 4-6: Berat to Himare and Albanian Riviera (3 nights in Himare) 

• Driving distance: 155 KM
• Driving time: 3.5 HRS

The drive from Berat to Himare ( Himarë ) is going to be long but very scenic. You will be driving along the Albanian Riviera coast which starts from Vlore-the third biggest town in Albania and stretches all the way to Saranda.

Be ready for the breathtaking views opening up while traversing the dramatic Llogara Pass serpentine road. Crossing Llogara National Park and Ceraunian Mountains, this adventurous road winds up to 1027 meters above sea level and drops down parallel to the shores of the shimmering Ionian sea. 

On the way make sure to stop at Llogara Pass panoramic viewpoint to admire the scenery. The wind at this point is quite wild, so if you, like me, are planning on flying a drone, be careful. 

Albanian Riviera is an up-and-coming seaside destination currently mostly frequented by locals and a number of foreign visitors. Featuring a kaleidoscope of blue waters of the Ionian sea, and pebbly beaches backed by endless rolling hills, Albania Riviera is a sunseeker’s playground. 

While the main beaches in Vlore, Saranda, Dhermi, and Himare are covered with sunbeds and umbrellas during the peak season (July and August), you will still find serenity at many hidden coves dotted along the Albanian Riviera. For that exact reason, I strongly suggest having your own vehicle so you have the flexibility to stop anywhere along the road and stroll down to one of the hidden bays. 

Base yourself in Himare

I recommend Himare ( Himarë ) as a base in Albanian Riviera. Ideally, if you are driving, your best bet is to pick accommodation in the atmospheric old town ( Himare Fshat ) perched atop the hill. You will be treated to gorgeous views and silence at night as opposed to the busy and noisy new part of Himara. 

The historic castle ruins in old Himare are well worth a visit, especially for wonderful unobstructed sunset views over the Ionian coast. 

Moreover, Himare is strategically situated providing convenient access to the best Albanian Riviera beaches located North and South of the town.

Where to stay in Himare

• Luxury: Prado Luxury Hotel -located a few steps away from Livahdi beach this hotel offers modern rooms (wooden floors, marble bathrooms), a private beach area, a gym, and a seasonal pool area, breakfast and private free parking are included. Check for prices and availability here.
• Mid-range apartments: Amphora Guesthouse &Apartments – self-contained apartments and rooms in old Himare. Some of the units are located in ancient buildings, while some are in new ones. We stayed in one of the new-building apartments which had a fantastic terrace with sea views. The guesthouse has a lovely terrace cafeteria where you can have homemade cake and coffee. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range hotel:   Sonar en el Mar – minimalist style modern bright rooms feature balconies with sea views, only a 1-minute walk from the main Spille beach in Himare town, exceptional breakfast, and free parking are included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Filikur Hostel Himare – a 10-bed and 4-bed mixed dorm located 200 m from Potam beach, has a garden, shared kitchen, and private free parking. Click here for prices and availability.

Which beaches in Albanian Riviera should you visit and which skip?

Gjipe beach.

Located 20-minute drive North of Himare town, followed by a short hike down the dirt track with fantastic coastal views, secluded Gjipe beach lays sandwiched between the steep rocks. Although not as secret and not completely wild as it used to be some years ago, Gjipe is still one of the most beautiful beaches on the Riviera.

From the parking lot paid at 300 LEK for a day, reaching the beach requires a relatively easy 20 to 30min trekking through a sandy and rocky path. Taking into account the effort required to reach the beach, there won’t be too many people visiting it. A campsite and three rustic bars selling refreshments and snacks are also available.

Make sure to wander into Gjipe Canyon which cuts inland a few hundred meters from the beach. 

Location: when driving along SH8 coastal road look for the turn to Manastiri i Shën Theodhorit (St Theodor’s Monastery). You can also put “Gjipe beach parking” on Google Maps to direct you. 

Livadhi beach

Just a short 5-minute drive down the hill from old Himare, or North of new Himare, Livadhi beach is quick to access and easy to park (for free). Part of the beach is covered in umbrellas but it still has plenty of space to stretch your towel on the pebbly shores. You can also find a couple of nice beach bars on the right side of the beach to sip a cocktail or have a snack. 

Potam beach

Located at the south end of new Himare town, this pebbly beach is easier to park at than the main Himare beach and also has refreshing cold water streams making it a perfect cool down spot during a hot summer day. 

Borsh Beach

Driving down south from Himare towards Sarande in around 30 minutes you will reach the longest beach on the Albanian Riviera called Borsh. You can find some completely empty spots even during the busy months.

For the most remote locations, skip the busy stretch of the beach, and walk all the way southwards. Look up Ohana’s Restaurant on Google maps. It is a wonderful place to spend a day or even catch the sunset. The rustic beach bar/restaurant just above the shore offers a shaded retreat and has Sri Lankan café vibes.

Note that Borsh beach is around 7km long. Unless you are up for a long stroll along the coast, you might want to park at the south end of Borsh town.

Other beaches on the way to Borsh

Llamani beach -beautiful cove between dramatic cliffs, however, fully covered with umbrellas. We looked at it from above, expressed our regrets about overdevelopment, and moved on.

Porto Palermo- located between Himare and Qeparo town, it is an unspoiled bay mostly known for Ali Pasha’s Porto Palermo Fort. The area lacks facilities, therefore, you can find a few small coves along the SH8 road completely empty and great for a short swim break in crystal clear waters.

Qeparo beach- a narrow strip of pebbly shore in front of a new part of Qeparo town. The bay is surrounded by rolling hills and the beach is facing west, making it a good spot not only for swimming and tanning but also for sunset views. Since it is located close to the new town, there are lots of bars, small restaurants, and supermarkets just a short walk away.

Visit quaint mountain towns Dhermi and Vuno

Dhermi town.

White-washed Greek-style houses characterize polished and pretty Dhermi ( Dhërmi ) old town. Situated atop the hill, Dhermi, is a little bit more posh compared to Himare when it comes to accommodation.

Nonetheless, since Dhermi is located only a 25-30 minutes drive from Himare, it is worth visiting for a few hours to explore its narrow steep, as common in this area, streets.

Only 10 minute drive North of Himare, and South of Dhermi, Vuno is a tiny atmospheric mountain village. Its steep cobblestone streets are still walked by donkeys like back in the olden days. It seems that the time in Vuno stands still. The only new era sign is a few satellite plates sticking out of the balconies.

Even a small section of stone pavement on the main SH8 coastal road remained untouched. While driving, the ride gets really bumpy and makes you slow down and pay attention to the town.

Once in Vuno, make sure to stop for a quick lunch at the outdoor bar/cafeteria Lula located just on the side of SH8 road. They serve delicious byrek and petula (a huge pancake served with cheese and jam on the side). 

Skip Dhermi beach and Drimadhes beach

Advertised as some of the best beaches on the Albanian Riviera, both Dhermi and Drimadhes beaches were a disappointment. Covered by hundreds of umbrellas (pricey by the way) and backed by some random ugly buildings and unfinished construction sites, load crowd, and even trash, both had everything that I don’t like about the beach. We stopped at both no more than 2 minutes each before we left.

The surrounding nature is unquestionably beautiful, and it is heartbreaking to see the area being “uglified” with all those terrible and useless developments (likely some horrific big hotels).  If you read reviews on Google, you will find more people confirming the above.

Skip Saranda

Saranda (Sarandë) is a hotspot in Albanian Riviera. It is the busiest town on the coast and a place where the majority of local and foreign holidaymakers head to. If you are not a fan of high-rise buildings, traffic, and a loud party scene, I suggest skipping Saranda. I have done my research and seen enough images and reviews that convinced me not to waste my time on this part of the Albanian Riviera. Even my host in Himare advised against staying in Saranda. 

Nonetheless, there are a few well-rated beaches in the area like Ksamil , for example, which might be nice to visit off-season. 

Getting to Himare from Berat by bus: this might be a less straightforward and long journey as it requires multiple transfers. From Berat, you can catch a bus to Fier or Vlore (Vlorë), and then from there another bus to Himare. The guaranteed way, though, with many connections available throughout the day, would be going back to the Tirana bus terminal and taking another bus directly to Himare. Tirana to Himare bus costs around 1000 LEK and takes 4 hours.

DAY 7-8: Himare to Gjirokaster (2 nights in Gjirokaster)

• Driving distance: 100 KM
• Driving time: 2 HRS 15 MIN

Drive from Himare to Gjirokaster ( Gjirokastër  ) continues south along the scenic coastal road before you turn into equally stunning hinterlands. On our way to Gjirokaster, we made one more stop at Borsh beach to enjoy a couple of hours by the sea. 

If you are interested in seeing more castles, make a pit stop at the 17th-century Porto Palermo fortress also known as Ali Pasha Castle located on a small island (accessible through a land strip). 

Gjirokaster-the stone city of Albania

Characterized by rooftops made of stone plates, Gjirokaster is a distinctive Ottoman-era town that landed on the Unesco heritage sites list in 2005. From the moment you reach Gjirokaster, you will be swept away by the old-world charm pulsating through narrow cobblestone streets, frozen in time age-old buildings and local people conducting a slow-paced mountain village lifestyle. 

The landscape of Gjirokaster is dominated by a well-preserved 4th-century castle overlooking Drino valley. Meanwhile, the old town seamlessly merges with the new modern part. 

Strategically built on the slopes of mount Gjere ( mali i Gjere ), the distinctive fortified houses of Gjirokaster are interconnected by a maze of narrow steep cobbled streets. Be ready for a good leg day exploring this magical historical place of Albania.

The central nerve of the old town is a bustling New Bazaar area with all the coffee shops and souvenir stalls. Although it is an intersection of only 4 streets, there are lots of other nearly vertical pathways to take, including the ones leading all the way up to Gjirokaster Castle- a must-visit place for history and fantastic views. 

If you are staying for a couple of nights, it is also worth taking a short hike to Ali Pasha bridge -an elegant arched aqueduct built over the ravine. It takes only 40 min of hiking up the steep streets and then descending the rocky path down to the bridge. Make sure to wear sturdy shoes, flip flops are not recommended. 

Where to eat in Gjirokaster

• Taverna Tradicionale Kardhashi – located on the slopes of the castle, a traditional Albanian food restaurant run by laud and energetic family serving fantastic stuffed eggplants and other delicious specialties.
• Antigonea Furre Buki Pasteceri in the new town of Gjirokaster is a fantastic local bakery where you can buy huge delicious byreks for no more than 80 LEK per piece, and some of the best ice cream in town for only 50 LEK per scoop. 

Where to stay in Gjirokaster

I would strongly suggest staying up in the old town of Gjirokaster for the atmosphere and to reduce the number of steep hills which you would still have to tackle even inside the old town.

• High-end: Kerculla Resort – perched atop the mountain this resort boasts fantastic panoramic views, offers a huge private pool (quite handy during hot summer days), and beautiful traditionally decorated rooms, exceptional breakfast is also included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Boutique hotel: Boutique Hotel Musee – located in the heart of old town, next to Skenduli house, this traditional house converted into a hotel offers rooms set up in traditional Gjirokaster style, a cozy terrace, an exceptional breakfast, and free parking. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range homestay: Konaku Guest House – I stayed here-unique rooms in a classic fortified Gjirokaster house, one of the best terraces in town with the castle view, steps away from the bazaar, close to the castle, free parking, and breakfast included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Stone rooms 1850 – located in one of the fortified 200 years old houses, simple but beautifully arranged rooms, property located a bit higher up above the castle, means dome extra climbing up and down. Click here for prices and availability.

Getting to Gjirokaster from Himare by bus: you must first take a bus running to Sarande and then catch another bus going to Gjirokaster. Expect the journey with bus changes to last at least 3 hours. Thus, start early. The approximate trip price could be around 600-900 LEK.

Day 9: Gjirokaster-Permet (overnight in Permet) 

• Driving distance: 60 KM
• Driving time: 1 HR

Our journey continues to less explored parts of Albania. Permet ( Përmet ) is locally known and most visited for the Benja ( Bënja) thermal baths, beautiful arched Ottoman era Kadiut bridge, mysterious Langarica Canyon, and white water rafting in Vjosa ( Vjosë) river. 

Thermal baths, Kadiut bridge, and Langarica Canyon

Sulfur springs are spread all across Langarica canyon which is located only 20 minutes drive from Permet town. Locals believe in thermal waters’ healing power. There are 6 thermal pools that can be used free of charge. Different pool when used in moderation brings different benefits to health. Springs can improve skin conditions, stomach, and kidney diseases.

You can see locals spending hours in the thermal baths. However, our host advised us to stay only 10 to 15 minutes in one pool and then take 2 hours break before repeating the procedure.

When overused, sulfur springs can have a negative impact on your health. 

Dating back to the 18th century, still, in perfect condition, Kadiut Bridge is located in the same place as the baths. It is definitely beloved by photographers due to its elegant shape and mountain backdrop. 

Top tip: if you want to take a dip in thermal baths, make sure to arrive early in the morning before the crowds. It gets really busy during the day, especially in summer. Note that thermal waters are not as hot as you would expect. Thus, if visited in winter, they won’t be hot enough to keep you warm from the cold. 

My favorite part of our time in Permet, and one of the highlights of this Albania trip, was exploring Langarica Canyon . Not many ventures that far but those who do will be rewarded with an avatar movie scene-worthy place.

Surrounded by high limestone cliffs, the narrow canyon is reachable within only 200 meters walk following the gorge and the river after the Kadiut bridge. Unlike in Gjipe, there is water inside the Langarica Canyon. Bring water shoes as you will not only have to cross the river a few times before reaching the canyon but also if you want to continue further, the only way to walk is through the muddy stream. 

During the rainy season, the water can reach waist up. If you are up for an adventure, you can follow the canyon for 4 kilometers one way until you reach a dead end. 

Be careful when walking as the ground under the water is very slippery. Also, due to the muddiness, holes, and rocks are invisible, so take one step at a time. It would also be a good idea to take a waterproof back if you have camera equipment.

Permet town

The town of Permet is situated on the banks of the Vjosa river and is not specifically impressive in terms of architecture. Nonetheless, this small town is very well looked after, including the new road that leads to it.

The main attraction in Permet is the 40 meters height rock. You can climb the metal staircase and see the town of Permet from above. The best time to do so is during sunset. 

Where to eat in Permet

• Restaurant Familjari – a family-run restaurant that serves slow food and is probably the second best or the same level as Lili’s in Berat. Also, the lady host is super funny- she told us to stop ordering the food after our third dish request as it would have been simply impossible to finish everything for 2 people (portions are huge). Try stuffed eggplant (classic) and cottage cheese with bell peppers dish, finish up with gliko -traditional one spoon sweet.

Where to stay in Permet:

• High-end: Villa Permet -spacious rooms with wooden furniture and floors, bar, restaurant, garden, fabulous breakfast, and private parking included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: The Mozaik House – fabulous homestay with exceptional hospitality, beautiful air-conditioned rooms, generous and tasty breakfast, and a garden. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: Traditional Guest House Permet -perched on the hill in beautiful natural surroundings, this accommodation offers nicely decorated traditional rooms, a restaurant, a garden, and a terrace, some rooms have a private kitchen. Click here for prices and availability.

DAY 10-11:Permet- Korca (2 nights in Korca) 

• Driving distance: 130 KM
• Driving time: 3 HRS

Wishing to have had more time in beautiful Permet, we continued our journey further to the East of Albania. The final destination of this leg of the journey is Korca (Korçë) – the town of serenades, as locals call it. 

It takes around 3 hours of driving to reach Korca from Permet, passing close by to the Greek border. However, the drive is probably the most scenic of all 2-week Albania road trips .

If you have read online about the terribly bad road condition on the SH75 section along the Vjosa river between Permet and Leskovik village, disregard it.

The road has been fixed in 2021, and the panoramic drive is now buttery smooth. Although it does have lots of twists and turns around the face of the mountain, the road is brand new and a joy to drive. Take your time when driving and make sure to stop at the scenic point at Vjose river bend. 

The remaining section from Leskovik to Korca, however, is a bumpy slow drive through an old road with many potholes. This explains the amount of time needed to reach Korca.

Nonetheless, there are barely any cars passing by, thus it is not a complicated drive. The only thing that could be a bit of a challenge is if you have a small-engine car. My rental car was a 1.5 L 2008 ford that struggled a little on steeper turns, but it made it all the way without any problem. 

Important tip:   make sure to top up your gas tank when leaving Permet. Unlike everywhere else on this road trip, there were not too many petrol pumps in this particular section. You should also be able to refill in Leskovik town as well but don’t bet on driving with the empty tank as it can be a while before the next station appears. 

Korca- the city of serenades and little Paris of Albania

Korca town is located in the southeastern corner of Albania close to the Greece and Macedonia borders. Surrounded by Morava mountains, the town dates back to the 13th century. Over the years it carried the influence of Greeks and Aromanians and eventually evolved into a dynamic city enriched with important cultural and historic sites, and also significant cuisine elements. 

Although it doesn’t fall on a classic Albania travel route and is often overlooked by foreign visitors, Korca will undoubtedly offer you an authentic experience. Recognized as an unofficial cultural capital of Albania, Korca has several world-class museums, significant architectural monuments and historic districts, cultural festivals, and events happening on a regular basis. 

Korca, also nicknamed as Paris of Albania , (although it is quite a bold statement) does have a mix of distinctive architecture. It is not as unified or following one style as in Ottoman towns Berat and Gjirokaster, but rather a mix of buildings from different eras-old Ottoman houses, Greek-influenced structures, and more recent bizarre modern communism period apartment blocks.

The town is very walkable, lively, and filled with lots of green spaces, and as usual in Albania-coffee shops and bars. The trendiest bar scene can be experienced in the Old Bazaar area Pazari I Vjeter ( Pazari i Vjetër) . 

Top things to do in Korca

• The most notable landmark in town is the biggest in Albania Orthodox Resurrection of Christ Church located strategically in the heart of Korca. 
• For panoramic 360 degrees views over the town, head to the RED viewing tower. Admission is 50 LEK. 
• Visit the impressive National Museum of Medieval Art showcasing a collection of over 7000 Orthodox icons crafted from wood, metal, and stone and decorated with intricate details. To me, Orthodox medieval art had always been some of the most impressive, and seeing such a collection in one place has its “waw” effect.

Places to eat in Korca

• Traditional Byreks- almost unnoticeable eatery selling freshly baked delicious byreks over the counter for takeaway or eat at a table outside. Located in Old Bazaar next to Hani I Pazarit hotel.
• Find Four- recommended by many blogs, it is a nice trendy multi-level restaurant with terrace and balcony seating, serving a variety of food, including lakror (typical for Korca, but made seasonally, layered byrek type of pastry, available in winter, as the waiter explained)

Where to stay in Korca

• Luxury & Boutique: Hani I Pazarit Boutique Hotel – located in Old Bazaar, boutique hotel in a historical building featuring a beautiful courtyard, and characteristic luxurious rooms. Click here for prices and availability.
• High-end: IN Gallery & Spa – located in front of the Cathedral, the hotel itself is an experience, featuring not only tasteful and unique interior design, but also a wellness and spa center, an exquisite rooftop restaurant, and providing free bicycles which are great for touring around Korca. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: Villa Domenico -located in Old Bazaar in a traditional Ottoman-style building, this cozy hotel features tastefully decorated rooms with wooden floors and brick walls, has a lounge area, restaurant and bar, free parking, and delicious breakfast are included. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Petro’s Apartment – we stayed here- a cozy modern apartment, more like a mini hotel, with a kitchenette for coffee and tea, fantastic hosts are very responsive and ready to accommodate, and the place has some of the food basics like milk, dry bread, cookies, tea, and coffee, as well as a handful of fruits ready for your arrival. Click here for prices and availability.

How to get to Korca from Permet (or Gjirokaster) by bus

There is once a day bus running from Gjirokaster via Permet to Korca. The bus in Gjirokaster departs at 6 AM and stops at Permet at 7 AM, then reaches Korca at 10:20 AM. To make sure the timetable is accurate, the best is to ask locals, ideally at the bus station for exact departure times. I used th e Gjirafa website as a reference for this information, however, it is not always accurate. Expect to pay around 1000 -1300 LEK for the journey.

DAY 12-13: Korca-Pogradec-Lin (2 nights in Lin) 

• Driving time: 1 HR 20 MIN

Spend a remaining couple of days by the beautiful Ohrid Lake shared between Albania and Macedonia. On the Albanian side, the biggest town on the shores of Ohrid lake is Pogradec. It is often chosen as a base for the Eastern Albania vacation due to its many amenities, hotels, restaurants, and a large public beach. 

However, when looking for our accommodation at lake Ohrid, I pulled a wild card and picked a homestay in the nearby Lin. A tiny village of Lin is situated on the small peninsula on the north side of Ohrid lake.

It was probably one of the best and most unique experiences in Albania. Surprisingly there were quite a few foreign tourists who also managed to discover this little gem. 2 days were spent laying on the sunbed and swimming in the refreshing waters of the lake Ohrid, hiking up the peninsula for the sunset and eating as much byreks as our stomachs could handle. 

If you are up for more action or sightseeing, you can always head to Pogradec, rent a bicycle, and cycle around the lake (even cross the Macedonian border if your passport allows visa-free entrance). 

Where to eat in Lin

• Make a pit stop for lunch in Tushemisht: on the way from Korca to Lin, stop for lunch in Tushemisht-a small village on the east side of Pogradec. Tushemisht seemed like a delightful small holiday town where locals spend their summer days by the lake. The village has many fish restaurants serving koran- a local fish common to the area which can be ordered grilled or as casserole (baked in a sauce).  Shtëpia e Vjeter was our pick in Tushemisht and it didn’t disappoint. The food was great served at the terrace by the water. The restaurant also has private parking which is useful in the tiny old town.
• Restaurant Leza – this restaurant has a large terrace with magnificent lake Ohrid views stretching as far as Macedonia shores. The menu is not huge but has great local specialties, including fresh grilled fish. Come for dinner during sunset- it is simply amazing.

Where to stay in Lin

• Mid-range: Guest House Lin – guesthouse offers wonderful rooms, some with dreamy balconies overlooking the water, a beautiful waterfront garden with sun lounges, and direct access to the Lake. It is quieter than its neighboring guesthouses, and probably one of the best choices for your stay in Lin. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: Rosa B&B – I stayed here-charming waterfront guesthouse that feels like you are at grandma’s, run by a very welcoming and hardworking family. The terrace in front of the lake is lovely, but the sunbeds are limited and the guesthouse gets quite full during peak season. Breakfast is included, and homemade food on request is offered. We spent all day there without leaving the place. Click here for prices and availability.

Getting to Lin from Korca by bus

There is no direct bus to Lin village from Korce. First, you would have to embark on the bus going to Pogradec and from there catch a taxi or a minibus to Lin. Allow a couple of hours to reach Lin with changes. Journey from Korca to Pogradec should take just over an hour.

DAY 14: Lin-Tirana (optional night in Tirana) 

• Driving distance: 120 KM
• Driving time: 2 HRS 10 MIN

Depending on your departure from Tirana schedule, or if you continue your Albanian trip, or maybe heading to Montenegro or another Balkan country, you can spend one more day in Tirana and catch up with activities you might not have time to finish on your first day. 

To us, it was the end of a two-week (15 days) road trip in Albania. However, if you have more time in Albania, below is an extended route that focuses on the Northern side of the country and includes the epic Valbona to Theth hike in the beautiful Albanian Alps. 

Extended 1-Week Albania Itinerary 

Adding an extra week to your Albanian trip will cover almost all the highlights of the country. Continue your trip in Albania with this suggested 1-week route in Central and North Albania. 

For this route, you do not need to have a car. You can get around using public transport. In fact, if you are planning on doing the Valbona Theth hike, it is even more convenient to use public transport than driving, as you can avoid complicated logistics of where to leave your car and how to pick it up after the hike. 

• More details on Valbona-Teth hike logistics are below , and you can also read the complete guide here .

Day 15: Tirana-Shkoder (overnight in Shkoder) 

• Driving distance: 90 KM
• Driving time: 2.5 HRS

Shkoder ( Shkodër )  is located in Northern Albania at the banks of Balkan’s largest Lake Skadar, part of which is shared with Montenegro. 

Shkoder usually serves as a jump-off point for Albanian Alps treks, including the well-known Valbona-Teth hike . 

Nonetheless, there are some fantastic things to do in Shkoder before embarking further North into Albanian Alps. I recommend spending a couple of nights in Shkoder to enjoy its laid-back atmosphere. 

Top things to do in Shkoder

As soon as you are in Shkoder town you will immediately notice that people here ride bicycles more than in any other place in Albania (apart from Korca probably). 

It is a great idea to rent a bicycle and explore not only Shkoders’ cozy old town with an old bazaar area but also head south towards Lake Skadar and ride along its shores. Head toward Shiroka village and you will find some atmospheric waterfront restaurants where you can have romantic dinner by the lake. 

Also, don’t miss Rozafa castle located on the way-only 4 kilometers south of the old town of Shkoder. Rozafa dating back to the 9th century BC is a beautiful historical fortification set in a perfect location allowing to watch magical sunsets. 

Places to stay in Shkoder

• Boutique: Hotel Tradita – set in Ottoman style old house, traditionally decorated with Albanian textiles, this boutique hotel is also offering local Albanian specialties at their restaurant, photography museum, and souvenir shops. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: Hotel-Legjenda – we stayed here-an artsy vibe chalets with exceptional quiet surroundings, garden, pool, ground for campervans, walking distance to Rozafa Castle, 4km from Shkoder city center, the hotel also allows you to keep your big luggage for Valbona Theth hike for an extra 1 EUR fee. Click here for prices and availability.
• Apartment: All Seasons Apartment – we stayed here- centrally located in a quiet street self-contained 2 bedroom apartment with all amenities, including a washing machine, and Italian coffee machine. A fantastic host is ready to help you out any time you have a request. Click here for prices and availability.
• Budget: The Wanderers Hostel – a highly rated popular hostel featuring a lively courtyard, cozy 4 -bed dorms, and private ensuite rooms. Click here for prices and availability.

Where to eat in Shkoder

• Villa Bekteshi Restorant – locals love to dine here, especially for special occasions in big groups. A restaurant in a villa has tables on a couple of levels inside and in a beautiful courtyard. Food is fantastic local Albanian cuisine; rates are also great. Reservation in advance is recommended.

Getting to Shkoder from Tirana by bus

Buses from the North and South Bus Terminal in Tirana leave regularly to Shkoder. The trip takes around 2.5 hours and costs around 400 LEK.

DAY 16: Shkoder-Komani Lake Ferry- Valbona

• Shkoder to Komani Lake Ferry: distance 55 KM, minibus driving time around 2 HRS.
• Komani Lake Ferry: 3 HRS.
• Fierza to Valbone: distance 45 KM, minibus driving time around 1 HR.

Today you will be travelling north to the Albanian Alps – arguably the most beautiful part of the country. The final stop for the day is Valbona- a peaceful mountain village where you will spend a night before embarking on an epic Valbona-Theth hike.

The commute to Valbona is exciting as it involves not only travelling by scenic road but also taking the Koman ferry which passes through emerald blue Komani lake and river Drin.  Because of turquoise waters flowing through an incredibly scenic gorge, Komani is often dubbed with Norwegian fiords. 

3 hours on a boat will pass like 3 minutes while admiring the awe-inspiring scenery of Komani lake. The ferry ride finishes in Fierza village from where you will take a minibus ( furgon ) to Valbona. 

Although it may sound like a lot of logistics, don’t worry it is quite straightforward and the whole transfer from Shkoder all the way to Valbona, including ferry tickets, can be prearranged in advance.

RELATED READS: Click here to read my post with detailed instructions on how to get from Shkoder to Valbona, including taking the Komani lake ferry. 

Top tip: Komani ferry ride is quite popular, therefore, if you are travelling in summer, I strongly recommend booking everything a week or even two in advance. 

Once you reach Valbona- a scenic and very quiet Alpine village, you can enjoy a relaxed evening surrounded by breathtakingly mountain scenery. You can even hear the wolves haul far in a distance. Don’t worry though, they don’t come close to where people are. 

Where to stay in Valbona

• Mid-range: Villas Jezersca – cozy chalets with fantastic mountain views, delicious food, and amazing hospitality of the family running this accommodation. They prepared us takeaway food for the hike and dropped us closer to the trail at the end of Valbona free of charge. Click here for prices and availability.

DAY 17-18: Valbona- Theth hike and time in Theth (2 nights in Theth) 

Today is an epic day hiking from Valbona to Theth mountain village. This iconic hike in Albanian Alps follows a well-marked medium difficulty 17-kilometer hiking trail. Part of the famous Balkan trail, the route goes along the dry river bed before ascending up to the gorgeous Valbona pass.

The hike is moderate although there are enough steep sections which together with the views will surely take your breath away. Pace yourself as it will take at least 6 hours to complete the trail. 

• Read all the information you need to prepare for Valbona-Theth hike in my post . 

Theth Alpine village was my favorite compared to Valbona. Surrounded by snow-capped mountain peaks, rural Theth is simply a majestic place. One of the most visited landmarks is a very pretty little church dating back to the 19th century. Visit before sunset or at sunrise for the best lightning casting over the Theth church. 

I strongly recommend spending 2 nights in Theth to have a good rest after a long leg day hiking Valbona pass. For those of you who still have some energy left, trek to Theth Blue Eye-another well-known trail in the area featuring a crystal clear water pool enclosed between the mountains. The trail is no shorter than the Valbona hike but is said to be way less demanding. 

Where to stay in Theth

• Guesthouse: Guest House Bec Villi – lovely traditional village guesthouse featuring a beautiful garden, serving delicious homemade food. They also can help organize minibus back to Shkoder. For prices and availability click here.
• Mid-range: Guest House Marashi – a bit more upscale instagramer-loved stylish wooden rooms, some of which have bathtubs inside the room overlooking the mountains and/or lovely private terraces. Great homemade food is also served at this guesthouse. For prices and availability click here.

Day 19: Theth – Shkoder (1 night in Shkoder) 

• Driving distance: 80 KM

Getting back from Theth to Shkoder by minibus

The ride in a minibus from Theth to Shkoder is around 3 hours and is also extremely scenic.  

In order to catch a minibus from Theth to Shkoder, you have to request a homestay to prebook it for you. Usually, minibusses have set departure times during the first half of the day. Schedules are not written in stone, so the best is to inquire as soon as you arrive at Theth after the Valbona Pass hike. 

We booked our seats in a furgon a night before, however, it was only the start of the season.

Message your hotel beforehand to find out and try reserving earlier. 

When in Shkoder, you can rest up and catch up with the activities you may haven’t had time to complete on the first day. 

Also, if you are traveling further to Montenegro, as I did on my first trip to Albania, Shkoder is a great place to catch a bus to Podgorica or another town. 

DAY 20: Shkoder-Kruja (overnight in Kruje) 

• Driving distance: 75 KM
• Driving time: 1 HRS 50 MIN

For the last bit of the Albania trip, I recommend visiting Kruja (Krujë)- the first capital of Albania . 

Kruja is a medieval historic town and possibly one of the most well know because it used to be the home and base of operations for a national hero Skanderbeg who fought and won against the Ottomans back in the 15th century. 

Located at the base of Kruja mountain, this small and charming ages-old town is only 1 hour away from Tirana. Due to such close proximity to the current capital, Kruja is usually visited on a day trip.

However, it is a much better choice is to stay there overnight. Pick accommodation inside Kruja castle walls to have the most authentic experience. 

The main attractions in Kruje are the 5th-century castle, where you can also find an informative Skanderbeg museum, and the 400-years old Bazaar ( the Bazaar of Derexhik ). 

Stroll the narrow pedestrian cobbled streets along the many authentic stalls in the old bazaar, interact with friendly locals, and as usual enjoy Albanian homemade food and coffee. 

Where to eat in Kruja:

• Bardhi restaurant is set atop the hill within the castle ruins offering fantastic panoramic views stretching as far as the Adriatic sea. The food served is a traditional Albanian and European mix. 
• Restaurant Alba is another great alternative also within castle walls and with great views. This restaurant is serving traditional food and dishes of Mediterranean cuisine made of organic homegrown produce. 

Where to stay in Kruja

• High-end: Hotel Panorama Kruje – centrally located, with great views of the castle, this hotel also offers a private pool, a huge common terrace, underground parking, restaurant, and bar. Click here for prices and availability.
• Mid-range: Rooms EMILIANO – this homestay offers a unique experience of staying within the castle ruins, homemade food, and a fantastic terrace with a view where you can have breakfast and dinner. Click here for prices and availability.

Getting to Kruja from Shkoder by bus

Regular hourly buses from Shkoder to Tirana also stop in the new part of Kruje (Fushë-Krujë). The bus stop location is here . The ticket price is around 300 LEK. You must inform the driver to let you out in Fushe-Kruja. You will have to catch a minibus from the new part to the old part of Kruje from the George W Bush statue. The ticket price is around 100 LEK.

DAY 21: Kruje-Tirana

• Driving distance: 30 KM
• Driving time: 40 MIN

This is the last day of your Albanian journey. Depending on your departure time, you can still spend a few chilled hours in Tirana or head straight to the airport.

If you are not driving, you will first have to get to the South and North Bus Terminal of Tirana and then catch a taxi from there to the airport. Account for enough time to do so.

Plenty of buses and minibusses from Fushe-Kruje to Tirana leave regularly and take around 40 minutes to one hour to reach depending on the traffic. Ticket costs around 100-150 LEK.

At Tirana bus station, you can catch a cab to the airport or the Tirana city center. They are just lined up on the street. Or you can call Merr taxi to send you a driver- those guys are really good and reliable at organizing quick rides.

Alternative 2-week Albania itineraries: from Albanian Alps to Albanian Riviera and from Albanian Alps to Lake Ohrid

I have lined up different Albania itinerary suggestions for those of you who only have 2 weeks in Albania and prefer to visit:

1. The Albanian Alps and the Riviera. This itinerary excludes the eastern and most of the southern part of the country covered in my original route. In fact, if I was visiting Albania for the first time, the Albanian Alps to Albanian Riviera route is what I would have taken. It includes both Unesco towns Berat and Gjirokaster, hiking in the Albanian Alps and swimming in gorgeous Albanian Riviera beaches, as well as some time in Tirana and Shkoder.

2. The Albanian Alps and the Lake Orchid. This route excluded the seaside but adds the southern part of the country. It would be suitable for those of you who are not keen on beaches and prefer more off-the-beaten-path travel. The southeastern part of Albania is definitely still off-the tourist radar.

Since I have already written about each of the locations above, please refer to the specific place by coming back up to the post.

14 days in Albania-from Alps to Riviera itinerary

• DAY 1: Tirana-Shkoder
• DAY 2: Shkoder-Komani Lake-Valbona
• DAY 3: Valbona-Valbona Pass hike-Theth
• DAY 4: Theth
• Day 5: Theth-Shkoder
• Day 6: Shkoder- Tirana (pick up a rental car in Tirana) – Himare 
• Day 7: Himare
• Day 8: Himare (visit Borsh beach) 
• Day 9: Himare-Gjirokaster
• DAY 10: Gjirokaster- Berat
• DAY 11: Berat
• DAY 12: Berat-Kruje
• DAY 13: Kruje-Tirana
• DAY 14: Tirana (return rental car)

2 weeks in Albania- from the Alps to Lake Ohrid itinerary

• Day 6: Shkoder- Kruje
• Day 7: Kruje – Tirana (pick up a rental car in Tirana)- Berat
• Day 8: Berat 
• Day 9: Berat- Gjirokaster
• DAY 10: Gjirokaster-Korca
• DAY 11: Korca- Pogradec-Lin
• DAY 12: Lin
• DAY 13: Lin-Pogradec-Tirana

I hope this post had inspired you to visit Albania and will be helpful when planning your Albania itinerary. If you have more questions, please feel free to comment below, and I will get back to you.

Have a great journey to Albania!

More Albania Travel Resources

• Driving in Albania: everything you need to know before renting a car .
• Valbona to Theth hike in Albanian Alps- everything you need to know.
• Find the best things to do in Albania’s capital with my Tirana itinerary for 1 or 2 days.

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Hi! I am a freelance photographer & videographer as well the creator of www.theroadreel.com. Born in Lithuania, and currently residing in the UAE, I have been traveling around the globe independently for over a decade. I created The Road Reel to share my passion for travel and photography through detailed road trips and city itineraries, and hiking guides, along with regular and drone photogragraphy tips.

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Albania Road Trip – The Perfect One Week Itinerary

I have to admit that Albania was never on my radar. It’s almost never talked about as a holiday destination and so it’s easy to overlook in favour of established spots . This all changed when I started planning a trip with some good friends of mine who are also hardcore travellers . The only rules were that we must visit somewhere in Europe and it had to be somewhere none of us had been.

We spent a long time floating ideas and getting nowhere. Between the three of us it seemed that every country had already been covered ! Finally Albania was the only country left staring back at us. A bit of a mystery to us all and to everyone else I knew for that matter.

So it was settled , we were going on an Albania road trip! Fast forward to a few months later and we were all in love with this mysterious country and supremely glad that it was the last one left on the list !

In this guide I’ll give you some tops tips for your trip and show you the perfect itinerary for a one week Southern Albania road trip .

Table of Contents

The Ultimate Southern Albania Road Trip Itinerary

A stunning bay along the coastal highway

*Updated in 2024* This blog post was originally written after my first Albania road trip in 2019. I have since been back to Albania several times and have updated this post accordingly. It turns out I loved Albania so much I decided to go back and live there for 3 months in 2023! Check out more of my articles about planning your trip to Albania here .  

Why you should visit Albania

Road trips are all about taking in spectacular scenery from the car window, and Albania certainly provides . Roads will take you through lush inland valleys and along stunning Mediterranean coastline. The coastal mountains make for one of the most beautiful stretches of road I have ever driven.

In Albania, you can complete a mountain hike in the morning and be relaxing at a beach bar in the afternoon with a cocktail in hand . Delicious fresh seafood and the tasty local beverages are so affordable that you’ll actually smile when you get the bill .

Locals were friendly and welcoming, the roads for the most part were in good condition and the accommodation was beautiful and unique . Albania was quickly entered on to our list of favourite destinations!

A beautiful beach in Ksamil, Albania

When to Go?

A southern Albania road trip wouldn’t be the same without the visiting the amazing beaches of the Albanian Riviera . This means that you want as much sunshine as possible. June to August is the perfect time for almost guaranteed sunshine but you can get away with a month on either end.

May and September/October are still nice and warm for the most part, but with a slightly higher chance of cloudy days and a few extra days rain per month on average . Summer will feature daytime temperatures in the 30s and night-time temperatures in the low 20s .

The good thing about visiting Albania during spring or fall is that you can beat the crowds and still get plenty of beautiful sunny beach days!

A mountain guesthouse in Albania

Albania Safety

Albania is regarded as a very safe country to travel, with crime and violence against foreigners being extremely rare . Locals are very welcoming and for the most part will go out of their way to help you with no expectation of reward. We also met a number of women travelling solo who reported that they hadn’t experienced any harassment or concerning behaviour .

We only experienced one attempted scam. This was restaurants/bars adding an extra item or adding up the total incorrectly . When questioned about the charge they were very apologetic and corrected it without arguing . The driving can be interesting in Albania but I will cover that in the next section.

The Best Travel Insurance for Road Tripping in Albania

Don’t risk it. Road tripping without travel insurance is never a good idea! The reality of travelling overseas is that unexpected things can happen at anytime so the best thing you can do is be prepared.

For peace of mind while road tripping through Albania, Heymondo is one of the most reliable travel insurance companies that will provide you with simple and flexible coverage. Whether you’d like to protect against medical emergencies, lost luggage, or trip cancellations, Heymondo has you covered!

As a reader of The Road Is Life, you get 5% off your Heymondo travel insurance by using the link below!

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Exploring the seaside town of Himare

Driving in Albania

A quick google will find many articles written on driving in Albania. Most will assure you that death is inevitable and the roads are one giant pothole after another, with a small amount of tarmac between .

This paints a very false picture and is either outdated or based on travels into rural areas and less visited parts of the country . Whilst roads like that do exist, if you follow this Albania road trip itinerary the roads are well maintained, well-marked and a pleasure to drive on .

The main safety issue is with other drivers, but from my experience this was nowhere near as bad as people made out online . It is true that some Albanians can drive a little crazy, but if you are a competent driver and stay alert you will be fine. I never felt nervous or in danger whilst driving through southern Albania.

→A phone mount for your car is an essential item when road tripping Albania←

This Albania itinerary is full of beautiful natural vistas

Watch out for locals overtaking before blind corners and always prepare to brake after coming around a corner . People will also overtake you on potentially dangerous stretches of road, it’s best to slow a little to let them back in safely.

There are less barriers than you would expect on the high mountain roads. Make sure you take plenty of stops to admire the view so you aren’t distracted while driving!

I used Google maps on my phone to navigate and it was reliable for the entire trip. You can download the map area of Albania before leaving on your trip. I found that it’s best to buy a local sim card on arrival so that you can stay connected at all times while driving. In the case that you pass through areas with no mobile signal, you should pre-load the route on wi-fi each morning before starting the drive.

Beautiful inland river valleys

Sim Cards in Albania

I can highly recommend using an e-sim while road tripping in Albania, Airalo is awesome and I’ve used it all around the world. You just have to download the app, make sure your phone is compatible for installing an e-sim and then follow the instructions to set it up. See more about setting up your Airalo account here .

Alternatively, you can buy a regular sim card on arrival in Albania. Vodafone provides great mobile coverage around the country and there are shops all over Albania. You can get 30gb of data for 2000 lek (€20) and that will be more than enough data to get you through this road trip. 

One Week Albania Road Trip Map

To view the stops listed in order, click the square in the top left hand corner of the map below. To view a larger version of this map, click the square in the top right hand corner to open it in a new window. 

Albania Road Trip Itinerary – Days One and Two

Getting there.

The start and end point for this road trip is the town of Saranda. The most convenient way to get there is to fly to Corfu in Greece and get the ferry across. Read on for detailed instructions on how to catch the ferry from Corfu to Saranda as well as how to get there from Tirana.

Getting from Tirana to Saranda

Depending on where you are travelling from, you may find it cheaper to fly into Tirana and start the journey there. You can easily rent a car in Tirana and drive to Saranda or just take the local bus which costs 1700 lek (€17) per person.

Buses to Saranda depart daily from the regional bus terminal and the journey takes 4.5 hours. You should have cash available to buy your ticket at the station and be sure to use the bathroom before you get there, there are no toilets at the bus station (it’s more like a big parking lot) or on the bus! It does however make a short toilet stop half way through the journey.

→Check out this site to find cheap flights to Albania or Corfu←

Dine by the sea in Saranda

Catching the Ferry from Corfu to Saranda

You have the option to either book a ferry online or buy a ticket in person at the local offices of the various ferry companies. Booking online is the better choice as you can print your ticket in advance and travel straight to the ferry terminal. I personally booked at the office just to do research for this article. The process took longer than expected (30mins or so) and was a bit of a hassle.

→Check out this great search tool to easily browse and book the cheapest/most convenient ticket←

I bought a one way ticket, but you can buy a return ticket if you already have your times set in stone. Don’t worry if you aren’t sure as it’s easy to buy a return ticket at the port in Saranda. There is a café with food and ice-cold beers in the Corfu terminal and you can bring your purchases aboard.

First view of Albania from the ferry

Getting from the airport to ferry terminal by taxi:

The most convenient option is to hail a cab to the ‘new port’ (or ticket offices if you haven’t booked online). This is a lot less hassle and a better option if you have a ferry leaving soon after your flight lands. Depending on whether they wait at the ticket office it will set you back between €10 and €15.

Getting from the airport to ferry terminal by bus:

From Corfu airport there is a well-marked public bus that will take you to the Corfu Port, you want to get the #15 Blue Bus, it is a little less than €2 and you can buy a ticket on the bus. This bus will take you though the city centre and main bus terminal before continuing to the port. There are two stops when you get to the port, the first stop is the ‘old port’ and the second is the ‘new port’.

This is where it got a little confusing and resulted in a lot of walking in the heat! Your ferry will depart from the far end of the new terminal however tickets to Albania have to be purchased from ferry company offices, which are much closer to the old port.

If you booked in advance then get off at the new port. If you need to book a ticket then get off the bus at the old port, buy a ticket, then walk to the new port. See below for a map detailing the location of the ferry company offices and the route to the departure terminal.

Ionian is the company I used but all the other offices are in the same place. Also note that where it lists the ‘Port’ on the map is not where the terminal is, you have to walk an additional 5 mins to the terminal for Albania. 

Saranda is the largest town on the Albanian Riviera. It has a large beachfront promenade filled with shops, beach bars, restaurants and a nice public beach for swimming . The car rental shops are located near the ferry terminal so you have the option to explore the town or get straight on the road.

You may choose to spend the night in a hotel in Saranda before heading to Ksamil the following day or drive straight there after picking up your rental car. Ksamil is only a 20 minute drive from Saranda so either way works fine for this itinerary. 

Saranda is a much larger town with more restaurant choices and some cool sunset bars to check out. Be sure to see my guide to the best restaurants in Saranda if that’s where you choose to spend your first night in Albania. However, Ksamil is where you will find the most stunning beaches on the Albanian Rivera , so don’t linger too long in Saranda!

Whilst in Saranda you can easily buy your return ferry tickets from offices on the road outside the port. Depending on the season you plan to visit, you can typically buy your tickets the day before travel. This may not be the case during peak summer season so it’s best to pick them up when you first arrive in Saranda.

Beachfront promenade in Saranda

Renting a Car in Saranda

Saranda has plenty of car rental shops in the near vicinity of the port as well as the town center. When it comes to renting a car, you could either book your car online before arrival or check out a few different shops when you get there. 

I have personally used and can recommend Leka Car Rentals as well as Iris Car Rentals , both are local shops within walking distance from the Port of Saranda. My experience picking up and dropping off my car was smooth and hassle-free. You can expect to pay around 25 – 35 euros per day for a car rental in Albania.

When I first travelled to Albania back in 2019, there weren’t nearly as many options as there are now when it comes to renting a car. I also heard several stories of car rental companies that try to scam tourists by making them pay extra for scratches that were already there. Just be cautious and do your research about the company and read reviews online before booking.

If you are planning to road trip through Albania during high season (June – August) I would highly recommend that you book your car rental online before you get there. If you visit during shoulder season (Sept/Oct) then it’s no problem to show up and arrange your car rental once you’re already there.

Plenty of stunning viewpoints along this drive

If you’d prefer to avoid going with a local rental car company, then I would suggest booking a car with Enterprise or Avis. You can easily book a rental car through these international companies via this website . 

You can expect to get good customer service and peace of mind that you won’t run into any scams along the way. It may cost slightly more to do it this way however the price of the car rental is more than made up for by the cheap prices of everything else in Albania.

I always use Rentalcars.com no matter where in the world I travel as their excess free insurance is affordable and a good thing to have. Use the form below or click here to compare prices on car rental options in Saranda.

When searching online, just be sure to double check the pick-up location. When I used Rentalcars.com in Saranda, for some reason it also showed me many options located in Greece!

Arriving into Ksamil is when Albania will start blowing your mind! It’s a picture-perfect bay with the most amazing turquoise water and beach bars perched invitingly over it . The drive from Saranda is also impressive, the road weaves through the hills with views of beautiful mountain valleys and rivers .

Ksamil is one of the most popular destinations in Southern Albania so it won’t be quiet but is still 100% worth it. I recommend to stay two nights in Ksamil as you will be arriving fairly late and will definitely want a full day of relaxation and fun here .

The main beach of Ksamil

What to do in Ksamil

There are beach bars everywhere in Ksamil, offering beach beds on the sand or on decks over the water. Patience is the key to finding the perfect place to spend your day. The guys running the bars will approach you and try to tempt you in but the main entrance from town is not the best area.

You want to make sure you are near the tip of the peninsula sticking out towards the 3 outlying islands, this area has the nicest bars and best views . A beach chair at one of the nicer places will set you back about 1000 – 2500 lek (10-25 euros) for the entire day! Tre Ishujt Restaurant & Lounge is one of the most popular places in this area.

I personally liked Blue Diamond Bar on Lori Beach or anywhere on the main Ksamil Beach (as seen in the photo below) which is surrounded by beach bars/restaurants. The cocktails and beers, whilst being more expensive than most other places in Albania, are still fairly cheap .

The stunning white sand and turquoise water of Ksamil Beach

Clifftop Restaurants

Whilst you can easily order lunch from the comfort of your beach chair, I would recommend hiking uphill for lunch with a view . There are restaurants perched along the cliffs overlooking the bay with amazing views. You may struggle to eat your meal as your jaw will be hanging wide open the entire time!

Seriously though, the seafood is top notch as well as a large number of other Mediterranean dishes served in a beautiful atmosphere . I can recommend Bar Restorant Korali Ksamil as this is where we ate and it was delicious. Guvat Restaurant (which is located right next door) is also an amazing restaurant with stunning views. 

At various locations around the bay you can hire all sorts of water sports equipment. You can either go to where the equipment is tied up near a jetty or just ask your waiter/waitress, as most beach bars will be able to arrange it for you . You can hire paddle boats, paddle boards, kayaks, snorkelling gear and take speedboat or jet ski rides around the islands .

A gorgeous view from Guvat Restaurant in Ksamil

Butrint Archaeological Park

The ruins of Butrint are a short drive or bus trip from Ksamil and are well worth a quick visit during your stay. This UNESCO World Heritage site has evidence of being occupied since 50,000 BC and today you can see the ruins of both Greek and Roman settlements .

The rich history of this site also includes Byzantine and Venetian occupations. The site sits within a pleasant natural surrounds and makes for a nice walking route. You can complete this in about an hour.

Entry Ticket: 1000 lek/person

Opening Hours: 9am – 7pm daily

Butrint is full of well-preserved ancient ruins 

Where to Stay in Ksamil

When looking for accommodation you want to make sure you are an easy walk to the beach as there is quite a hill leading up to the places on the main road . Albania has a lot of places with very few reliable ratings so it is best to do your research. Below I have recommended a couple of great Ksamil hotels to consider.

Mustafaraj Apartments  offers a whole apartment, right on the beach, with amazing views from your deck . This budget option gives you massive bang for your buck and is in a more quiet part of town.

Blue Eye Hotel is p erfectly positioned to access the best part of Ksamil in only a few minutes walk and is right in town . This modern hotel has clean and comfortable rooms, as well as a swimming pool and onsite bar/restaurant . A little slice of luxury for a very reasonable price!

A bird’s eye view of Ksamil Beach and islands

Albania Road Trip Itinerary – Days Three and Four

Day three is the biggest day of the trip so you will want to get an early start. There is about four hours driving in total but split up by a couple of stops so you don’t get too tired.

The Blue Eye of Albania

The Blue Eye, otherwise known as Syri i Kaltër in Albania, is a beautiful natural water spring outside of Saranda. It comprises a natural pool with a stunning range of hues and a pit that goes down at least 50m.

You have to pay a small fee to enter the national park so make sure you have some lek on you. It was 50 lek entry per person at the time of writing and 200 lek for parking your car.

From the main road you will turn onto a gravel road and after a short time you will see a booth where they collect payment . You will then cross a one lane bridge and follow the road for about 10 mins or so until you reach an area with a few buildings and a parking lot .

The Blue Eye is also one of the most popular day trips from Saranda so aim to get there early in the day to avoid the big crowds and tour buses. 

The pristine water at the Blue Eye is incredibly inviting and may be enticing to hop in for a swim, but keep in mind that it is very cold (10 o C to be exact!)

The mysterious Blue Eye of Albania

Gjirokaster

The next stop after the Blue Eye is the ancient town of Gjirokaster. The old town area of Gjirokaster is a UNESCO site and dates back to Greek times. There are a few really old buildings but most of what you see today is Ottoman era construction. The houses in the old town are built with a very distinctive character and have roofs covered with flat stones.

When you enter Gjirokaster you should walk through the old town first and admire the interesting architecture . You can then start ascending towards the fortress for a brilliant view from above.

As you walk uphill towards the fortress, you will hit an intersection where you turn left to see the fortress or right up another road . If you turn right and walk a short distance up the road you will find a great viewpoint of the old town.

Streets of Gjirokaster

The fortress itself is definitely worth a visit, even if only for the views of the surrounding mountains and valley . There are plaques with historical information and you can walk around the whole place in about half an hour .

You should add on extra time however for finding a quiet spot to sit and look out over the beautiful countryside .

*NOTE* Your GPS will try to take you up a crazy mountain road if you enter Gjirokaster as your destination. I can tell you from experience that this is not a good idea! If you set your destination as Cerciz Topulli Square it will take you down the correct road. See the map below for reference.

Great views from the Gjirokaster fortress

The drive to Berat is the longest of the trip, but the roads are almost all main roads/highways and easy to drive. We made a stop for lunch in a city called Fier, which you will pass through along the way. Alternatively you can have lunch in Gjirokaster or bring some food and find a nice place to stop.

You will likely arrive in Berat in the late afternoon or evening. You should drive straight to your accommodation so you can enjoy the amazing sunset views here . I recommend staying for 2 nights as there are a lot of great things to do in Berat .

*NOTE* Google maps plots the best route even though it looks like there is a shorter route. Don’t be tempted to take a short-cut as they are some pretty dicey mountain roads.

The town of Berat

What to do in Berat

Stay in a 13 th century fortress

The pretty town of Berat that you may have seen in photos is down on the river bank. What many people don’t know before visiting is that high up above Berat is a 13th century fortress and you can stay in it!

This is an absolute highlight of the trip. The guesthouses are quaint and cosy and have amazing mountain views. I recommend two different guest-houses below and you should try to book early. While Albania is certainly not busy like Western Europe, the guest-houses can book out due to a limited number of rooms .

Amazing views from Guest House Iljesa

Walk around the fortress

Within the fortress you can walk around the walls to find some impressive viewpoints and some nice places to enjoy a drink with a view . You will also find the 13th century Holy Trinity Church , which is a beautiful building set into the side of the fortress .

Make sure to locate the panoramic viewpoint above Berat. If you circumnavigate the fortress you will come across it but your guest-house can also point you in the right direction.

The town of Berat lies on the bank of the Osum River and is yet another UNESCO notch in Albania’s belt. The old town comprises many beautiful churches, mosques and murals. Like many parts of Albania it is a blend of many civilizations across history.

The town of Berat is actually made up of three parts. The fortress town ‘Kalaja’, the main town called ‘Mangalem’ and a final area across the river named ‘Gorica’ . The bridge across to Gorica gives you a great view back of main part of town and we found a great photo op by walking down into the almost dry river basin .

From the fortress a walking path can take you down to the old town. The path is very steep so if you are not confident going down or coming back up then you can always drive down into town. There is plenty of free parking along the river.

The road to the fortress is one way so you have to do a little loop down through the countryside and back into town which takes around 10mins .

Driving into the fortress

Within the main town there are a couple of interesting museums to visit.

The National Iconographic Museum Onufri is housed inside one of the old churches. It has an amazing collection of religious paintings and murals. The unique style of the paintings and the beautiful gilding of the church make it well worth the 200 lek entry fee.

The National Ethnographic Museum Berat is found within an old Ottoman era house and gives you a view into how people lived in those times . You can walk around the house and get a great feeling for the rigours of life in antiquity, as well as some information about the history of Berat .

Views from the top of the castle

Touring an Albanian winery is definitely a unique experience and there are a couple you could visit in proximity to Berat .

The Cobo Winery is conveniently situated along the road you will take after you leave Berat. You can tour the vineyard and have a tasting session before purchasing a bottle to enjoy on the riviera later that day . Have your guesthouse give them a call so they can expect you as it is a family run business.

Nurellari Winery is in a beautiful location, the views adding great ambiance to your tasting . They offer a selection of vintage wines paired with homemade jams and a selection of cheeses. It’s in the opposite direction from where you’ll be driving so it is better to visit as a day-trip for a couple of hours.

Taxis in Berat will take you out there and even wait for you for a very reasonable price. The other option is to take a day trip from Berat, you will likely have a better experience when arranged by a local. This wine tasting tour is an easy way to sample the wines and history of this region. It lasts for 7 hours and also includes a visit to Berat Castle as well as a traditional lunch.

Tours in Berat

There is a lot to see within Berat and also in the surrounding countryside. A walking tour of Berat is a great way to delve a little deeper into the history of Berat through the eyes and experience of a local. There are also beautiful waterfalls, a huge canyon and one of the largest caves in Albania. See below for my recommended tours and to explore times/prices.

Where to stay in Berat

I cannot stress enough how amazing it was staying in the 13th century fortress high above Berat. Many people don’t realize you are able to stay up there and so miss out.

We stayed at Guest House Iljesa. They have a terrace right on the edge of the wall with sweeping views over the mountains and countryside. The guesthouse itself has a beautiful rustic charm and the staff were super friendly. A bartender is present at almost all hours to serve you on the terrace. They also do an amazing breakfast every morning.

Hotel Klea is another great option. We ate most meals here as they have a beautiful garden dining area. You can watch the chef collecting fresh veggies and herbs to create your meal. We had great conversations with the friendly family who run the place and the food was top notch. I will definitely try staying here next time I’m in town!

→Browse more accommodation options in Berat←

The garden restaurant at Hotel Klea

Albania Road Trip Itinerary – Days Five and Six

Today will see you driving one of the most stunning roads I have ever seen. There are a couple of optional stops to visit along the way. After this you will wind your way up into verdant mountain landscapes, with towering peaks on one side and spectacular ocean views on the other .

I have suggested several possible overnight stops along the riviera, depending on how far your wish to drive today . They are listed in the order that you come across them. If following this itinerary you will have 2 nights to stay along the coast. You could choose to stay at a different beach each night if you want to explore more of the riviera. Otherwise you can spend two nights in the same place and maximise that relaxation time!

If you are spending two nights in the same place I would recommend driving at least to Himare. This way you will have less worry about making it back to Saranda on time.

An amazing viewpoint on Llogara Pass

Optional Stops

The first optional stop is Ardenic a Monastery , built in 1282 by a Byzantine emperor. It features some beautiful and unique wooden construction, including the altar piece as well as frescos from numerous centuries. The ticket is cheap and must be purchased in cash at the door.

The second optional stop is the ruins of Apollonia. Here you can find the frontage of a temple dating back to Greek times, around the 6 th Century BC. You can also find a Byzantine Christian complex dating to the 13 th century and an archaeological museum.

The Llogara Pass

This mountain pass is the final hurdle you must cross before descending down to the world class beaches of the Albanian Riviera . Driving this stretch of road was one of the most enjoyable experiences of any road trip I have done. The views are simply sublime.

When you reach the top of the pass there are three restaurants where you can stop for a well-earned lunch. All the restaurants have decks with incredible panoramic views. They all have good ratings so if you can’t get a table on the deck at one, then move along to the next one. This is not a place to be eating inside!

Plenty of photo ops along the way

Beaches and Accommodation Along the Riviera

Drymades beach.

Drymades Beach will be the first major beach area that you come across as you leave the Llogara Pass. Depending on how long it has taken you to drive and how you are feeling it can make a decent overnight stop for your first night . I wouldn’t recommend it unless you are so tired that you can’t drive a little further. I preferred both the beaches and accommodation options further down the coast.

This beach is close to the busy town of Dhermi but it is separate from Dhermi Beach. It is found closer to Gjileke and is quieter than Dhermi beach, which is covered in beach chairs. Drymades beach has a sandy part to give you a break from all the pebbles and some lovely rock formations which make for great pictures .

Visit the stunning Drymades Beach while driving through Albania

Where to Stay in Drymades Beach

If you do decide to overnight at Drymades Beach, you should stay at Guest House Four Seasons . It is a little ways up the hill from Drymades Beach, meaning you will have to drive a few minutes to get there. In exchange you get sweeping views across the ocean and mountains from your balcony.

If you want a little more action and some good restaurant options you might want to continue on to Dhermi . The beach is more busy, but you won’t be able to beat the absolute beachfront access offered by Vela E Bardhe . They have cute cottage style rooms right on the ocean with an onsite restaurant and bar.

→ Browse more accommodation options in Drymades Beach ←

Gjipe Beach

The next beach of note is Gjipe beach, a hidden gem tucked away down a trail which is inaccessible by vehicles. This is not ideal to stay on as you will have to carry all your stuff down but is a nice beach for a visit.

If you make the 30min trek down to this beach you are rewarded by a beautiful little cove which you can have almost to yourself ! There is a small campground at the bottom that sells drinks and that you can stay in if you wish.

The seafront of Himare

Himare is the perfect area to base yourself if you wish to spend two nights in the same place. The seafront of Himare is nicely developed and the beach is beautiful. There is a good selection of bars and restaurants set back from the water.

The beach of Himare can be a little busy in the summer months so you could try staying at one of the nearby beaches if you want a quieter experience (keep in mind that no beach in Albania comes close to being as busy as a typical European beach!).

Livadhi Beach is a few kilometres to the north of Himare and has some beautiful accommodation options.

Lamani Beach is about the same distance in the opposite direction. It’s a small beach with limited accommodation options but is a stunning place to spend a day or even a morning before returning to Himare.

Himare offers some great dining and drinking options

Where to Stay in Himare

Hotel ARXONTIKO will allow you to take advantage of Himare’s many bar and restaurant options . The beautiful and modern 4 star hotel has a prime location right on the beach. A great place to stay if basing yourself in Himare for 2 nights. You can’t beat having stunning ocean views from the comfort of your bed.

Calliope Apartments offers equally beautiful scenery but added space and tranquility. Located on Livadhi beach, they have self-contained apartments with everything you need.

→Browse more accommodation options in Himare←

Borsh Beach

Borsh beach is the perfect place to spend your second night, or to have somewhere quiet both nights. This is the longest beach of the Albanian Riviera and also one of the least busy. We were there in the middle of the day in summer and had almost the entire beach to ourselves.

The views from Borsh beach are also stunning. The mountains are set a little farther back from the beach in this area and they cradle a valley full of olive and fruit trees .

Rent a cheap beach chair for the day at Borsh Beach

Where to Stay in Borsh Beach

I’m going to recommend two very different options to spend what is potentially your last night in Albania .

If you want to go out with a bang and in proper resort style then spend a night at the Sole Luna Hotel . This recently built hotel has luxurious rooms and a high quality onsite beach bar and restaurant . You have free use of their beach furniture and great views no matter which way your room is facing!

On the other end of the spectrum, and the beach, is the beautiful Guest House Luiza . It is set back from the beach amongst the orchards and the building resembles a cozy log cabin. The rooms are simple yet comfortable and offer a kitchenette and fridge.

→Browse more accommodation options in Borsh←

Albania Road Trip Itinerary – Day Seven

Saranda and home.

The final day of the trip will see you returning to Saranda and doing the first day in reverse. Depending on where you have chosen to spend the last night you will have to allow differing amounts of time to get back to Saranda .

This stretch of road is winding and mountainous so you should allow at least half an hour above what the GPS suggests . There are some beautiful viewpoints along the road so if you are planning to stop for photos you might want to allow even more time .

It’s best to book an evening flight so you can get away with a morning at the beach. Check out some of the beautiful beaches in Saranda if your schedule allows for it. 

Also keep in mind that returning a car in Albania can take longer than you expect. The offices are small and there are not so many staff. The good part is that after returning the car, you are already at the port. If you haven’t already booked your ferry ticket then there are ferry company offices all along the street outside the port .

We hope you enjoy your amazing Albania Road Trip!

Read More Balkans Travel Guides

• The Best Beaches in Saranda and the Albanian Riviera
• The Best Ksamil hotels for every budget
• Day Trip to Mostar from Dubrovnik – The Ultimate Guide
• The Best Hotels in Saranda, Albania
• The 12 Best Day Trips from Saranda, Albania

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Hello and welcome to my blog!

I’m Ann, a free-spirited Canadian adventurer who quit my 9-5 to hike mountains, chase waterfalls and live life to the fullest!

A lover of road trips, good wine and off the beaten path destinations – you will find these topics covered in depth on my blog.

Travel has changed my life for the better and I want to show you how it can do the same for you!

Welcome to my journey 🙂

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Albania: The Ultimate 6-Day Road Trip Itinerary (Super Affordable!)

I’ve noticed something strange about travel to the Balkans – people seem to flock to Croatia , Montenegro, or even head to Greece , but they often skip Albania.

Naturally, this made me curious – is there a reason for this? Should I be visiting Albania at all?

After being absolute enthralled by Croatia’s beauty on a previous 8-day roadtrip , I decided I had to give Albania a chance. And oh boy, I’m glad I did.

Being less visited means Albania is such an affordable destination

As I started booking everything in Albania, I realized just how awesome this was. I stayed in the best-rated hotels in each town for not more than 40 Euro a night, paid 15 Euro a day for my rental car through Hertz , and had super cheap flights in and out the country. And I didn’t even try.

When I walked out the best restaurant in Tirana after a 5-course meal having paid less than $25, I came to a radical conclusion about Albania: it’s one of the most underrated countries I’ve ever been to.

The Most Epic Road Trip Itinerary to Explore Albania in 6 Days

There’s so much to see an do on a road trip around Albania, but I truly feel 6 days is the sweet spot to maximize your time here.

Day 1: Tirana : by foot and by taste bud Day 2: Berat | An insanely quintessential Byzantine mountain city & the most epic Albanian waterfall all to yourself Day 3: Epic Canyoning at Kanionet e Osumit Day 4: Gjirokaster : sleeping in a fairytale castle surrounded by amazing scenery Day 5: Butrit , Himare , & Orikum : incredible Albanian Riviera beaches, fortresses, and fantastic views Day 6: Krujë : an epic final castle visit before flying home

If you end up with an extra day or two, head to the Mesi bridge in Shkoder right on the border with Croatia! If you want to continue onto Serbia, Kosovo, and North Macedonia, make sure to read about my previous epic Balkans road trip .

Note: if you have less than 6 days and land early in the day, I would skip Tirana. I found it the least interesting city in Albania.

Alternative 6-Day Albania Road Trip Itinerary

If you’re looking for more of an inland and authentic Albanian experience in only 6 days, this alternative itinerary is perfect for that.

Day 1: Krujë Day 2: Orikum Day 3: Gjirokaster Day 4: Korce & Prespa National Park Day 5: Berat Day 6: Tirana

Visiting Tirana: a booming capital

A booming a flourishing city, Tirana is quickly becoming a center of attention in the Balkans. If anything, it’s a great metaphor for all of Albania.

Healing from a brutal civil war and a decade of government corruption and financial failure in the 90s leading to a population decline of over 40%, Albania has reeled itself back from the brink year after year.

And Tirana , now witnessing the moving in of giant hotel brands, new massive parks being built, and a flourishing of restaurants and shopping, is truly becoming a city of hope and proof that tenacity works. Albanians, if anything, are tenacious.

So let’s explore this fine Balkan city, and see everything it has to offer.

The Top 9 Places You Need to See in Tirana

From a unique Cold War bunker turned art museum to a castle, Tirana has a quirky charm that’s hard to resist.

• BUNK’ART – former Cold War bunker turned into a contemporary art & history museum
• Et’hem Bej Mosque – a beauty and gem, particularly at night
• The Tirana Castle ( Kalaja e Tiranës ) – a castle dating to the 13th century turned into a shopping and dining alley
• Resurrection Cathedral – One of the largest Eastern Orthodox churches in the Balkans
• House of Leaves Museum – Actually the house of secret surveillance, it’s one of the most unique museums in the world
• The National Historical Museum – 27,000+ square meters filled with expos
• Grand Park of Tirana – Hiking paths with sprawling views of Tirana, cafes, and an artificial lake
• Dajti Express – A cable car just outside the city with epic views
• Skanderbeg Square – The central square of the city, showcasing beautiful monuments and lined with restaurants. Make sure to head up the clock tower!

Where to stay in Tirana

$  Garden Boutique B&B

$$ Metro Hotel Tirana

$$$ The Plaza : The best hotel in Tirana

The Top 5 Places to Eat Authentic Albanian Food in Tirana

• Ceren Ismet Shehu – A wonderful 5-dish menu of local food, and my favorite in Tirana.
• Tymi Ver Reci – Best kebab, steaks, and meat
• Oda – The most authentic local dishes
• Era Vila – Considered the locals’ favorite
• Mullixhiu – Ranked by Forbes as one of Europe’s Top 50 hottest restaurants

Berat: an incredible, quintessential Byzantine mountain town where you can sleep in a fortress

I arrived at this fascinating mountain town at sunset, and immediately marveled at its beauty. Situated on a perfect little mountain surrounded by lush, green river valleys, Berat seems a Byzantine-era town untouched by time. Well-kept, there is not a single stone out of place.

Berat is the real deal.

What to see and do in Berat

Albanians call Berat the “One above another Windows”, and it offers a reconstructed medieval bazaar, gorgeous Byzantine churches, and even a National Museum.

It’s worth staying here the night just to see the sunset from the top of the fortress. Places to visit here include:

• The Holy Trinity Church
• All of Old Town and its restaurants, cafes, hotels, and narrow alleyways
• Berat Castle and its epic views of the surrounding mountains
• The Iconography Museum of Onufri
• The Ethnographic Museum
• Ruins of the Red Mosque
• Saint Demetrius Cathedral
• Church of St Thomas
• Kanionet e Osumit, an incredible river gorge with waterfalls where you can go rafting

Where to stay in Berat

$ Hotel Klea

$$ Hotel Colombo Berat : I can’t even believe how beautiful this hotel is.

Visiting a massive, stupendous waterfall you won’t believe exists in Albania – way off the beaten path

On the way from Tirana to Berat, I took a sliiiight detour. I took my little tiny European 2WD rental car off road to a waterfall with almost no information available – and none in English.

And boy was I glad I did. What I found was a series of massive multi-layer waterfalls landing in a crystal clear pool – and I had it all to myself .

The name of the waterfall? It’s the Sotires Ujevara (which means waterfall in Albanian), and it’s about an hour of dirt road and a 45 minute walk to get there, but it’s totally worth it. If you have a 4×4, you could drive the entire way there.

Pro Tip: the best time to visit is the morning for sunshine. And you can hike down to the bathing pool at the bottom for an awesome swim!

An awesome Balkan experience: fantastic white water canyoning 

On your way out from Berat, I highly highly recommend stopping by the Kanionet e Osumit (Osumit Canyon) for an adrenaline-racing, heart-pumping white water rafting adventure.

Or you can simply enjoy hiking around the river, relaxing in the sun, and going for a fresh dip to stay cool in the afternoon sun. In any case, it’s a stupendously beautiful spot to enjoy Albania’s glory.

Gjirokaster: a fairytale city – and my favorite in Albania

I loved walking through the old town and up to the castle of Gjirokaster, and exploring its museum with 360 degree mountaintop views. And I certainly didn’t mind having the best authentic Albanian food of my entire trip here, basking in the views and the glory of this magnificent city.

What to see and do in Gjirokaster

The true reason you came to Gjirokaster, is, as the name implies, for the castle! Built during the 12th century, the Castle of Gjirokaster sits atop a mountain with incredible views on the surrounding valleys and mountains.

It includes an incredible museum detailing Albania’s resistance against the Germans, how an American fighter jet got lost in the clouds and ended up here, and a bunch of rare and stunning tanks.

Other places of interest in Gjirokaster include:

• The main Bazaar
• Old Town Gjirokastra
• The Archeological Park of Antigonea

Where to stay in Gjirokaster

$$ Hotel Fantasy : wonderful views outside the castle

$$$ Resort Kerculla : an epic, authentic estate with massive pool and wonderful rooms overlooking the city

Where to eat in Gjirokaster

While here, you have to try the Taverna Tradicionale KARDHASHI . It’s some of the best food not just in Gjirokaster, but in all of Albania, with incredible tourist-centric service. It’s just outside the Castle, so you might have to hike up a little – but it’s worth it just for the delicious Raki and Moussaka.

The Albania Riviera (“Bregu”/Mediterranean Coast): a glorious and enthralling place for a road trip

A couple years ago, I completed a delightful 8-day road trip all the way across Croatia . What I found was delightful, beyond-words beauty. So I was hoping that Albania would naturally share that same essence. 

What I found was astounding. Crystal clear water, beautiful beaches, insane mountain viewpoints, fantastic hiking, wonderful seaside towns. I even went swimming – in March!

The cities you’ll not want to miss include:

• Butrint for it Roman Archeological Park on an island 
• Ksamil for some of the best secluded beaches and fun nightlife
• Porto Palermo and it’s fortress
• Orikum for an incredible, calm, peninsula protected bay of amazing beaches and great restaurants 

You may have noticed I left off Sarande and Vlore, but I found these cities a bit too big and not as charming. They do both offer nice boardwalks and plenty of hotels and places to eat, as well as nightlife – but I don’t feel they’re as authentically Albanian. 

Durres is a quite nice bigger city, featuring gorgeous mosques, churches, and even a Roman amphitheater.

The best beaches to visit on your road trip

Overall, I’d say crystal clear water, white sand beaches, gorgeous mountains, delightful boardwalks, and amazing drives make Albania’s coastline a real competitor to that of Croatia’s . 

Some of the best beaches in Albania include: 

• Gjiri i Akuariumit
• Livadi Beach
• Plazhi i Borshit
• Plazhi i Pasqyrave
• Grama Bay- possibly the best beach here, but quite out of the way

An epic fortress island you can’t miss

Butrint Archeological Park is an entire island that could be considered the sister to Corfu as seen by the Roman Empire. It’s very well preserved, offering everything from massive estates to an amphitheater to a mountain top fortress – all connected by walking trails. 

It’s a must see if you have the time. 

The most flabbergasting viewpoint on Albania’s coast

Panorama Llogara makes it worth it to take the longer road back towards Tirana. Why? It’s simply the best view on the entire coast of Albania.

Perched high up in the mountains, with seemingly endless views over the coast and neighboring giants of mountains, the viewpoint often sits above any clouds. 

The perfect Instagram spot. 

Where to stay in Himare

$ Himara ’28 Hotel : a great deal for nearly beachfront property with breakfast

$$ Arxontico : for the best sea views from your beachfront balcony

Where to stay in Orikum

$ A&G Hotel – an awesome beachfront hotel

$ Bel Ami Suita – excellent value

Krujë: one last castle before you leave Albania

If you have time before your flight, you should definitely visit the Castle of Kruja. It’s one of the most beautiful in Albania and only a 40 minute drive from Tirana airport.

Other notable mentions of epic destinations to visit in Albania

• Valbona Valley (and its National Park)
• Shkoder and the Mesi Bridge 
• Fir of Hotova and its thermal springs, river rafting, and hiking
• Korce – a gorgeous city surrounded by the Morova Mountains
• Lake Ohrid area – this was my favorite place in the Balkans last year

Other road trips you should consider

The Ultimate 2-Month Central America Road Trip Itinerary

Croatia in 2023: The Ultimate 8 Day Road Trip Itinerary

The Most Epic 2-Week Madagascar Road Trip Itinerary (All Costs Included)

Affiliate notice : I may receive a small commission (at zero extra charge to you) for some of the links placed in this article. This commission allows me to continue running this website and making travel a little easier for everyone.

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The Ultimate Albania Riviera Guide: 20 Amazing Places to See in the Albanian Riviera + Transportation, Accommodations, and More!

Planning a trip to Albania? If so, you’ve probably heard a thing or two about the legendary Albanian Riviera and are considering a visit. 

The Albanian Riviera is, in my opinion, one of the biggest hidden gems in Europe . 

With picture-perfect turquoise waters, isolated enclaves, incredible historical sites, some of the best beaches in Europe , and budget-friendly prices , I’m surprised that this region is still relatively undiscovered!

There are so many amazing things to do along the Albania Riviera, from exploring uninhabited islands to hiking along lush paths, partying it up next to DJ Tiesto, snorkeling, and, of course, relaxing on pristine beaches.

If you’re ready to go, keep reading — this guide will go over some of the best cities and towns along the Albanian coast, plus practical tips on transportation, the best places to stay in the Albania Riviera, interesting facts, and so much more! 

WHAT IS THE ALBANIAN RIVIERA?

Before we get to the good stuff, let’s take a second to go over the basics: 

The western border of Albania covers more than 350 kilometers (215 mi) and is almost exclusively bordered by the sea (except for a small chunk up north). 

However, there’s a subtle difference that divides the western coast into two regions: the northern borders the Adriatic Sea , while the south is where the coast meets the Ionian Sea — and also where the Albanian Riviera is located!  

The Albanian Riviera gets its warm turquoise water exclusively from the Ionian Sea and is locally known as Bregu. 

Likewise, the length of the Albanian Riviera is somewhere between 130 to 200 km (depending how you measure it) and is full of small villages, secluded beaches, canyons, fruit groves, scenic mountain passes, and much more. This region is one of the most ecologically diverse parts of Albania!

There’s a popular misconception that the Albanian Riviera is only made up of a few major resorts between Saranda and Ksamil, but that’s very far from the truth. It’s actually home to dozens (if not hundreds!) of charming villages, ‘summer towns,’ boutique resorts with their own private beaches, and much, much more — you definitely won’t be bored during your trip to the Albanian Riviera! 

Where is t he Albanian Riviera?  

Now that we have a basic overview of the what, let’s move onto the where. 

The Albanian Riviera starts around the city of Vlore, and makes its way through numerous villages and beaches before ending around Ksamil. 

To make it more visual, here’s a map of the Albanian Riviera, along with most of the stops that will mentioned in this post. :) 

How to get to the A lbanian Riviera

There are a few different ways to get to the Albanian Riviera, and I’ll cover each variant below: 

OPTION #1 — Fly into Tirana and take a car, bus, or taxi

If you’re planning to travel around Albania and want to add the coast as one of your destinations, it’s best to fly into Tirana Airport (TIA) and go from there. 

There are no direct buses from Tirana Airport to the Albanian Riviera, but there are buses from Tirana city to Vlore or Saranda . These typically cost about 10 to 15 EUR per person (depending on the destination) and there are a few companies that offer daily departures.

However, it’s worth noting that most buses are a little outdated and there’s no clear organization at the bus station — I’ve written about it in my Albania for Digital Nomads blog post under the ‘By Bus’ section. 

Another option is to take a taxi , which can cost anywhere from 150 to 200 EUR (depending on the size of the car). Since the cost is higher than other options, taking a taxi is only viable if you’re traveling with a group (i.e. 3 or more people) to split the cost.

Last but certainly not least, renting a car is one of the best options. There are tons of options available, and car rentals in Albania start at 20 to 25 EUR per day! If you take the same 200 EUR that would cost for a taxi, you could drive the entire length of Albania in 10 days and come out ahead. :)

If you’re interested in this option, click here to check car rentals. 

OPTION #2 — Fly into Corfu and take the ferry

If you’re traveling to Albania just to enjoy a getaway on the riviera (i.e. no plans to visit other parts of the country), I’ll divulge a really neat travel hack: fly into a neighboring country! 

As noted above, Albania only has one airport (in Tirana), and sometimes you just don’t want to spend 4 or 5 hours driving. No worries — I got you!  

The closest airport to the Albanian Riviera is Corfu International Airport (CFU) , which offers much more flexibility and convenience. In fact, there are dozens of daily flights from European cities and plenty of budget airline routes (on Ryanair, Wizz Air, TUI, easyJet, and more).

After landing at Corfu, you’ll need to take a quick 20-minute ride to the Port of Corfu and board your ferry to Saranda. You’ll have two options for the ferry: either the 30-minute speedboat or the 70-minute regular ferry. The prices vary between 20 to 50 EUR, depending on the season and type of boat you’ll take.

At the end, disembark and enjoy your time in Saranda!

How to get Around the Albanian Riviera

While there are many ways to travel around the Albanian Riviera, the absolute best way is to rent a car.

With a car, you’ll have a much easier time driving along the Albanian Riviera. First, car rentals are very budget friendly (starting at 20 EUR per day) and allow you to travel wherever and whenever you want. 

You’ll be way more flexible, since you can literally get in your car and explore all of the little villages and towns around the riviera (versus having to stick to the ‘big cities’ if you’re taking the bus). 

Finally, it doesn’t matter if you start in Vlore or Sarande (the ‘start’ and ‘end’ of the Albanian Riviera), as both cities have multiple car rental agencies. 

Click here to check car rentals — I personally love this company (RentalCars) and use them all the time when I travel. 

The other option is to take the bus. One downside is that you’ll be limited to the ‘big’ cities (i.e. major places like Vlore, Himare, Saranda, etc), but it could be a nice adventure — and who knows, maybe you’ll meet some cool locals along the way. :) 

To make it easier, I’ve marked major cities with a star emoji (⭐️) in the section below ( Where to go in the Albanian Riviera ). 

Best T ime to Travel to the Albanian Riviera

Depending on your purpose, there are a few different ‘best times’ to visit the Albanian Riviera.

If you’re trying to avoid hoards of summer tourists on package vacations and the scorching heat, your best bet is to travel during the shoulder season. This is from April to early June , as well as September to the beginning of October . The closer you are to July and August, the warmer the sea will be.

July and August are peak vacation months, as many tourists come to the Albanian Riviera’s most popular cities (especially Saranda) on vacation and even on day trips from Corfu. I would try to avoid these months if possible, and if not, at least visit a few smaller towns to offset the crowds. 

Outside of spring and summer, the coast is stormy with frequent rains. If you’re planning to go during winter, I would recommend another place in Albania (such as Tirana, Elbasan, or Korce). 

Other Useful Information

On a similar note, be sure to book your rental car and all accommodations ahead of time, or else you’ll face the risk of having to pay in cash (and prices might go up for hotels if it’s a last-minute booking!) 

Likewise, make sure to check if your accommodation(s) take credit cards. To avoid this issue, I recommend pre-booking and pre-paying ( Booking.com usually has this option ). 

🏖️ Language in Albania — Thanks to its location and history, locals along the riviera typically speak Albanian and Greek and/or Italian. English can be hit or miss depending where you go, although the most popular cities in the Albanian Riviera have many English speakers that work in tourism. 

🏖️ The Beaches — If you’re into secluded and quiet places, some hotels and resorts have their own private beaches! Some of the most popular include Stone Beach in Qeparo , Sole Luna in Borsch , and Folie Marine Beach Hotel in Jale .  

WHERE TO GO IN THE ALBANIAN RIVIERA

Now we get to the fun part: the best places to visit in the Albanian Riviera!

We’ll start at the very beginning of the Albanian Riviera (Vlore) and make our way down to the end (Ksamil). Along the way, I’ll note some of the best beaches, places to see, and accommodations. Ready? Let’s go!

Sprawled on a bay with clear waters and surrounded by the thunder-split Ceraunian Mountains, Vlore is where the Adriatic and Ionian Seas meet — and, thanks to this unique geographic feature, it’s officially known as the beginning of the Albanian Riviera! 

Also written as Vlora, this bustling seaside port is the third biggest city in Albania and a major destination for those looking to start their Albanian Riviera holiday. This is because the city has well-developed infrastructure, with plenty of hotels and seaside apartments, grocery stores, shops, cafes, and much more. 

On a side note, Vlore is also an excellent destination for digital nomads , and was one of my favorite cities when we traveled around Albania!

I recommend at least one or two days in Vlore to chill out, adjust, and get ready for your Albanian Riviera trip (whether that’s renting a car or just figuring out where the bus station is :)). 

What to do in Vlore

💃 Walk Along the Promenade — Vlore has a well-kept and tidy promenade that’s perfect for taking a stroll during sunrise or sunset. Near the city, there’s also a mini amusement park and excellent cafes and restaurants! 

🕌 Muradie Mosque — One of the oldest mosques in Albania, Muradie mosque was built in the 1500s and is one of the most prominent Cultural Monuments in the country. It’s especially beautiful against the backdrop of the city and has a melodic call to prayer.  

⛲️ Explore Vlore’s Old Town — Just a few blocks away from the mosque are the remnants of Vlore’s old town. While only a few buildings survived to this day, they’re very well-taken care of and charm visitors with their pastel colors and cheery facades. :) 

Top Accommodations in Vlore

Just a few kilometers off the coast of Albania is this mysterious and uninhabited island with an interesting past.

Sazan Island used to be a former military base during Albania’s communist era and served as a base for submarines and arms. In fact, more than 3,000 soldiers used to live on the island, although nowadays that number has drastically fallen to a grand total of 2 (to patrol the area and catch smugglers). 

As one reviewer succinctly put it, “This is an exciting mixture of the untouched nature and the rusty relics of the military past!”

Sazan Island can easily be reached via a 30-minute boat ride from Vlore. There are plenty of tours that offer a trip to the island, typically with a stop at Haxhi Ali Cave and/or Karaburun Marine Park. 

Click here to check out the prices and tours that go to Sazan Island

Despite its small size and secluded location, Orikum is a lovely town that’s full of resorts and local guest houses sprinkled around the surrounding bay. Another bonus is that there are plenty of fine pebble beaches and places to swim. 

Interestingly, Orikum takes its name from an ancient Greek city that’s just a few kilometers away. If you’d like to explore, head over to the Parku Arkeologjik i Orikumit or Marmiroi Church , which are the only surviving ruins. 

Top Accommodations in Orikum 

Did you know that 3 out of 14 National Parks are located in the Albanian Riviera? 

While we’ve talked about one (Karaburun-Sazan) already and will go over another (Butrint) a little later, let’s take a look at Llogara — which is one of the oldest (and most scenic!) national parks in Albania. 

Llogara is just a short 30-minute drive from our previous stop, Orikum, or an hour away from Vlore. Although it’s further inland from most other places along the Riviera, Llogara is an excellent place if you want to get some hiking into your trip. 

If you have a day or two, I highly recommend walking the trails — thanks to its 1,000-some meter height, the views of the surrounding bays and water are just gorgeous! If not, there are also a few places to park your car and take a few photos. :) 

What to do in Llogara National Park

Go Hiking!  — As mentioned, Llogara is one of those places that deserves to be on your hiking bucket list. The Cika Hike is the most popular route, and takes anywhere from 4 to 6 hours (depending on your speed and number of stops) to reach the top. The length is about 12 km (7.5 mi). 

See One of the Most Beautiful Views in Albania — When driving along Llogara Pass, be sure to stop at this spot and take in the breathtaking views — just type in “Panorama Llogara” on Google Maps for directions. If you’re lucky (and it’s a clear day), you might even see the Greek island of Corfu! 

Bunkers – Did you know that there are more than 170,000 bunkers in Albania? You can check out the lasting remnants of the country’s communist period in many places around Albania, but perhaps one of the most well-known is the ‘Big Bunker’ near Panorama Llogara (above). 

Top Acco mmodations in Llogara National Park 

Palase (also written as Palasë or Paljasa) is one of the first towns that you’ll encounter after departing Llogara National Park.

Palase’s biggest claim to fame is that Julius Caesar rested here before continuing to Llogara, although it’s also famous for its charming white houses, 400-year old plane tree, and a stunning 1.5 kilometer beach.  

Likewise, this area is famous for the numerous luxury apartments and boutique hotels, and is an excellent place to base yourself if you’re looking for where to stay in the Albanian Riviera!

Top Acco mmodations in Palase 

In a nutshell, Dhermi is the poster child of the Albanian Riviera. And by that, I mean literally — you’ve most likely seen its beautiful clear waters on a travel brochure, Albania guidebook, blog post, or some other tourism-related piece.

Besides its charming good looks and world-famous beaches, Dhermi is also popular for its parties — if you’re looking for some of the best Albanian Riviera nightlife, this place is definitely for you!

From beach clubs to bars, festivals, and so much more, Dhermi is party central during the summer months. It actually hosts one of the most popular music festivals in Albania, Kala Festival, which describes itself as “an eclectic selection of artists connected by spirit rather than genre.”

Fun fact: DJ Tiesto performed in Dhermi back in 2009 — who knows, maybe he’ll be there during your vacation as well. :)  

Top Accomm odations in Dhermi 

Nestled in a cove between Dhermi and Himara is Gjipe Beach, which is often considered to be one of the best beaches in Albania. 

In fact, if you’re planning to enjoy a beach holiday in the Albanian Riviera, Gjipe Beach should definitely be on your itinerary! What makes it special is the fact that it’s slightly out of the way for most people, as you’ll need to climb 30 minutes down a walkway to reach the beach. 

You can also take a kayak tour  to visit this secluded beach and make it into a fun day tour — just don’t forget the sunscreen! 

If you’re planning to spend the whole day here, be sure to pack some drinks, snacks, and cash, as a beach chair and umbrella cost around 1,000 Lek ($10 USD). 

Top Accommodations near Gjipe Beach 

Located some 300 meters above the riviera is this charming village, which looks as if it was plucked straight out of Tuscany. 

If you’re in search of raw nature and/or to see how the locals live, Vuno is an excellent choice. The town is famous for its rolling hills (try to find the shepherds and their goats!), idyllic white and stone houses, and lush green groves. 

Top Accommodations in Vuno

Jale Beach is a cute beach with neatly-lined thatched umbrellas, pristine waters, and pleasant small pebbled sands. 

Thanks to the clear waters around the area, Jale Beach is an excellent spot to go kayaking, snorkeling, and diving — or simply relaxing. 😌

Top Accommo dations near Jale

Other than Vlore and Sarande, Himare is one of the three major cities in the Albanian Riviera.   

The town is well-equipped for tourism and has everything you need to enjoy a vacation, including restaurants and cafes, grocery stores, local tavernas, and even a post office. In fact, many people choose to use Himare as their base in the Albanian Riviera and explore neighboring towns as day trips. 

Other than soaking up the sun, you can also check out the famous Himara Castle (with beautiful views of the sea!), walk along the beach boardwalk, or stroll/hike through the surrounding countryside.

Top Accommodations in Himare  

With such excellent beaches and infrastructure, it’s no wonder why Himare has some of the best hotels in the Albanian Riviera. From charming boutique hotels to luxury resorts and everything in between, it’s all here.

Besides its dreamy beaches and turquoise waters, one of the most famous tourist attractions in the Albanian Riviera is the Porto Palermo Castle. 

In fact, Palermo really reminded me of Herceg Novi , another city in the Balkans that’s famous for its castles and forts!

Palermo doesn’t have many accommodations nearby, and it’s best to visit this place as a day trip — it’s only 7 km from Himare, and you can walk to the island where the castle is located via a small strip of land. 

At first glance, Qeparo might look like an abandoned village, but this place has quite an interesting history. Let’s start with the name: 

Qeparo was originally called Kiparos, which means garden in Greek — and this perfectly fits the town’s history. Many years ago, Greeks and Albanians used to live in the village and cultivate some of the best olives and olive oil in the country. 

In fact, Qeparo is actually divided into two parts — Upper Qeparo (the village) and Lower Qeparo (near the beach). 

Eventually, the village was abandoned, but you can still see some of the olive trees (and traditional houses) when exploring the area.

Top Ac commodations in Qeparo 

The first time I heard of Borsh I had a chuckle, since borsch is a famous soup where i’m from … but Borsh is no laughing matter. It’s literally a paradise!

While Gjipe and Jale Beach might impress with their quietness and seclusion, Borsh is famous for having the largest stretch of beach in Albania — an impressive 7 km (4.5 mi) in length! 

Top Ac commodations in Borsh 

Borsch Castle, so-called because of its location on a hill next to Borsch village, is a fascinating remnant that traces its history back to the 13th century. 

If you visit the castle, you might notice that there are different architecture styles — that’s because during the course of its history, the castle was rebuilt over four eras, including Byzantine and Medieval times. 

If you’re hiking to the castle from Borsh town, it takes about an hour to make the 3 kilometer trek up. 

Nestled between ‘big shot’ cities like Himare and Saranda, Lukove is definitely a hidden gem in the Albanian Riviera. If you’re looking for a quieter getaway without all of the hustle and bustle of tourist crowds, this is just the place!

About 150 meters beneath the village is Lukova Beach, which is famous for its dreamy blue waters and pleasant sandy beaches (and free parking!). Besides swimming and relaxing, this beach hosts a famous music festival every summer called The Element, which is a Balkan-style Burning Man with psychedelic techno music.

Top Accommo dations in Lukove 

Similar to its neighbor above, Nivice is a fairly remote spot that’s home to two interesting attractions: St. Mary’s Monastery and Kroreza Beach.

St. Mary’s Monastery is a popular stop on an Albanian Riviera road trip thanks to its well-preserved condition and status as a Cultural Monument of Albania. It’s an interesting look into Albania’s Orthodoxy, especially if you check out the amazing murals inside (which were originally painted in the late 1600s!) 

Below the village is Krorëza Beach, which is the true definition of secluded — you can only reach it by taking a boat ride from a nearby city. 

P.S. — Don’t confuse Nivicë (this place) with Nivica (a remote village in Gjirokaster that’s next to a canyon)! 

Top A ccommodations in Nivice 

Ahhh, Saranda —officially known as the capital of the Albanian Riviera, this is the city to use as a base if you want to explore nearby attractions. 

Its status as the ‘heart of the Riviera’ means that there are plenty of connections throughout southern Albania, plus excellent infrastructure, accommodations, restaurants, and more. Despite its small size, Sarande packs a punch!

Of course, Saranda is almost famed for its legendary beaches — the city regularly enjoys more than 300 sunny days per year (similar to Herceg Novi, Montenegro’s sunniest city !) and has half a dozen beaches in its vicinity. 

Not in the mood to explore? No worries — Saranda has a lovely palm-lined promenade, old ruins right in the center, and even a giant ferris wheel! 

Top Accommodations in Saranda

One of the most interesting natural attractions in Albania is none other than the Blue Eye. 

So called for its shape — the deep dark waters of the center make up the pupil, while the blue water is the iris — the Blue Eye is a popular day trip from Saranda and the surrounding areas. 

If you can’t make it by car, there are tons of tours that offer a stop at the Blue Eye as well! Check some of the most booked ones here: 

🌀 Visit The National Park of Blue Eye 🌀 Buthrotum, Blue Eye Springs, Ksamil and Lekursi Castle from Saranda 🌀 Explore Blue Eye- The Monument of Nature (Top rated!) 

Just like Dhermi, Ksamil has one of the most famous scenes in the entire Albanian Riviera: the legendary boardwalk photo!

Another bonus of traveling to Ksamil is that it’s closer to Greece (and/or Corfu, if you’re taking a boat), which is perfect for those who plan to stay fairly local. 

There are plenty of things to do in Ksamil, but most of them include relaxing on one of the stunning beaches or visiting one of the three nearby islands. ;) 

It’s no surprise that Ksamil Beach was voted one of the most beautiful beaches in Albania — and I’d venture out to say in the world as well. Be sure to check it out!

Top Accommodations in Ksamil

Butrint National Park was the first-ever place to be listed on UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites in Albania, and for good reason! 

This place is literally Disneyland for history buffs, as it used to be an ancient Greek city before it lived through Roman, Byzantine, Angevin, and Venetian rule before being abandoned in the middle ages. 

Many of the ruins are well-preserved, including a near-complete Greek theater, basilica, fortress walls, and much more.

Some 20 kilometers (12 mi) from the park is Konispol, a town near the Greek border that’s famous for its juicy and succulent mandarins. In fact, the largest mandarin plantation in the country is located here and even offers tours (with the option to pick your own fruits!) to visitors — it’s an excellent day trip or a stop on your way to Greece. :) 

Top Accommodations near Butrint 

Photo Credits : Thatched beach – Albina Shehetila | Albanian Riviera map – Lancer (Wikipedia) |  Beach and car – Caleb George | Llogara Pass – Pasztilla aka Attila Terbócs (Wikipedia) | Palase – Xhulio Selenica (Unsplash) | Dhermi – Gjoko Strezoski | Gjipe Beach – Renaldo Kodra (Unsplash) | Vuno – Shkolla Hostel | Jale Beach – Albania Beaches | Palermo – Visit Albania | St. Mary’s – Albanian Tourism | Sarande – ​​Laurentiu Morariu (Unsplash) | Blue Eye – Renaldo Kodra (Unsplash) | Ksamil –  Cannm01 (Wikipedia)  | Butrint NP – Renaldo Kodra (Unsplash) | Hotel photos: Respective hotels

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One thought on “ the ultimate albania riviera guide: 20 amazing places to see in the albanian riviera + transportation, accommodations, and more ”.

This was such a helpful article. Thank you very much. I have always wanted to visit Albania. Hopefully soon.

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Wander-Lush

The Ultimate Albania Road Trip Itinerary — From the Riviera to the Vjosa & Lake Ohrid in 2 Weeks

Looking to check-off all the Albania must-sees and still venture off the tourist trail? My alternative Albania road trip itinerary offers a perfect balance of essential and offbeat destinations over two action-packed weeks.

With affordable rentals, excellent roads and an infinite supply of awe-inspiring landscapes, picturesque villages and dynamic cities, Albania is made for a self-driving adventure.

Driving around Albania this past autumn will go down in history as one of my favourite travel experiences of all time.

Having visited Albania for the first time a few years prior and exclusively relying on public transport, I am in a unique position to compare the two experiences. I can wholeheartedly assure you that renting a car in Albania is 100% worth it – particularly if you are travelling in the shoulder or low season.

While most Albania road trip itineraries focus on the Adriatic Coast, my route ventures to underrated and lesser-travelled parts of the country, including along the Vjosa River Valley and Lake Ohrid.

A tidy loop starting and finishing in the capital, Tirana, it covers all the must-sees in central-south Albania including Berat, Himara and Gjirokaster. It travels two of the country’s most scenic stretches of road, the coastal Llogara Pass and the newly sealed road from Permet to Korca, and includes ample opportunities for adventurous detours.

For all things parking, petrol and other practicalities, see my tips for driving in Albania (coming soon).

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

Transparency: Our car rental was sponsored by my long-term partners at Local Rent. All other expenses incurred during our trip were covered by us. I am solely responsible for creating this itinerary without any external input. All recommendations/criticisms are 100% my own.

Places visited on this Albania itinerary

Here is a quick summary of the main destinations on my 2-week itinerary. As you will soon see, there is a whole lot more to see and do between the major stops.

• Tirana — Albania’s fast-evolving capital city.
• Berat & Gjirokaster — twin UNESCO cities in Albania’s lush interior.
• The Albanian Riviera — beaches, canyons & a scenic drive down the Llogara Pass.
• Dhermi , Vuno & Upper Qeparo — charming Albanian villages hidden in the hills behind the beach.
• The Blue Eye — the famous natural pool between Ksamil and Gjirokaster.
• Benja & Sarandaporo — thermal springs in southeastern Albania.
• The Vjosa River — Europe’s last wild river.
• Permet — Albania’s capital of ecotourism & slow food.
• Leskovik — a hidden gem in the wine region & one of Albania’s best boutique accommodations.
• Lin — the oldest village in Europe on the Albanian side of Lake Ohrid.
• Korca — an underrated small city near the Greek border.
• Voskopoja — a village brimming with Byzantine churches.
• Butrint National Park & Apollonia — two of Albania’s premier archaeological sites.

Albania road trip route overview & map

This tried-and-tested driving route is essentially an exact replica of the road trip Ross and I did this autumn (with a few minor adjustments). It is well-paced, with only a couple of big driving days and plenty of down-time.

• Day 0: Arrive in Tirana – stay in Tirana at Konak I Skanderbeg Square
• Day 1: Lunch at Fustanella Farm – drive to Berat – stay in Berat at Josiph B&B
• Day 2: Full day in Berat & Osumi Canyon – stay at Josiph B&B
• Day 3: Visit Apollonia, Fier, Vlora & the Zvernec Islands – drive the Llogara Pass – stay in Dhermi at Roots
• Day 4: Full day in Dhermi – stay at Roots
• Day 5: Visit Vuno, Himara & Porto Palermo Castle – continue to Upper Qeparo – stay in Upper Qeparo at Villa Porta
• Day 6: Visit Saranda, Butrint NP, the Blue Eye & Field of Bunkers – stay in Gjirokaster at Jani Studio Apartments
• Day 7: Full day in Gjirokaster – stay at Jani Studio Apartments
• Day 8: Visit Tepelena & Ali Pasha’s Aqueduct – continue to Permet – walk to Leus – stay in Permet at Villa Permet or in Leus at Chri Chri Guest House
• Day 9: Visit the Benja Thermal Springs – return to Permet – stay at Villa Permet
• Day 10: Visit the Sarandaporo Thermal Springs – continue to Leskovik – stay in Leskovik at the Melesin Distillery
• Day 11: Visit Voskopoja – continue to Korca – stay in Korca at Villa Domenico or in Voskopoja at Stone Villas
• Day 12: Full day in Korca – stay at Villa Domenico
• Day 13: Visit Pogradec & the Royal Tombs of Selca – continue to Lin – stay in Lin at House 1960
• Day 14: Return to Tirana – stay in Tirana at Konak I Skanderbeg Square

How long should you spend in Tirana?

Most travellers will arrive in Albania via Tirana, where one of the country’s two international airports is located. While I have budgeted for 2 days in Tirana, you might need to add on some additional time in the capital depending on your arrival/departure schedule. I recommend doing this at the top of the itinerary.

We had enough time to spend four full days in Tirana before hitting the road. Most travellers will find 48 hours is ample time for the highlights.

You definitely do not need or want to drive in Tirana. The small spurts of city driving we did were by far the most stressful moments of our trip. Most of the city is walkable, while you can easily get to further-flung spots including Dajti Mountain and Bunk’Art using the excellent city bus network.

What about Theth, Valbona and Shkoder?

You will notice there is one glaring omission from this itinerary: the north.

The Accursed Mountains and particularly the hike from Valbona to Theth is definitely one of the highlights of Albania – and I do suggest you make time for it. Having previously visited the Alps and completed the hike in 2019, I felt no desire to go back and repeat it out of season.

My decision to leave Shkoder, Valbona and Theth out of this road trip itinerary is actually quite deliberate. You do not want to drive to these places. The windy roads in the north are the worst in the country, and a car can be a liability in the mountains.

Because Valbona-Theth is a thru trek, planning a driving route around it is very clunky. Some people choose to drive to Theth, hike to Valbona, then walk back to the car the following day. But this means skipping the Komani Lake Ferry, which is a huge mistake in my opinion. And do you really want to repeat the same hike on back to back days?

Provided it’s the right season for trekking (May to October most years, weather depending), add an additional 4-5 days for the north of Albania. It will look something like this (this is the exact plan Ross and I followed back in 2019):

• Day 1: Furgon from Tirana to Shkoder – afternoon in Shkoder – stay in Shkoder at Sweet Living Apartment
• Day 2: Transfer to Fierze – Komani Lake Ferry – afternoon in Valbona – stay in Valbona at Guesthouse Mehmeti
• Day 3: Hike to Theth – stay in Theth at Guesthouse Marashi
• Day 4 (optional): Extra day in Theth for hiking & the Blue Eye – stay in Theth at Guesthouse Marashi
• Day 5: Furgon from Theth to Tirana – afternoon in Tirana – stay in Tirana

Another option is to: 1. Drive to Shkoder from Tirana (stopping in Kruje on the way); 2. Organise to leave your car at your guesthouse; 3. Take the Komani Ferry to Valbona; 4. Do the one-way hike; 5. Return to Shkoder by bus from Theth to pick up your car. This would mean leaving your car idle for 3-4 days, which is a bit of a waste in my mind.

It is possible to take a car on the ferry, but spots are limited and from what I understand, it can be a stressful process. And again, you would have to repeat the hike twice.

The Tirana-Shkoder-Valbona-Theth route is very popular and easy to do with public transport by booking a combination bus-ferry ticket online via the official Berisha page .

Need more time on the coast?

If you are a regular reader of this blog, you will know that I am not a beach person. Growing up in Queensland either spoiled me or scarred me – or perhaps a bit of both.

I am entirely unfamiliar with Eastern European beaches (outside of Georgia and the Black Sea Coast), so when we landed on the Albanian Riviera, I was quite taken aback by the huge developments and amount of trash that’s around. This might be controversial, but I just don’t think the beaches in Albania are all that appealing.

If you do want more time on the beach, then I would recommend adding a night in Himara or Saranda between Qeparo and Gjirokaster. For a good range of restaurants and non-beach activities, Saranda would be my top choice. Parking is a bit tricky in Saranda, so be sure to choose a hotel or guesthouse with onsite parking.

What is the best time of year for an Albanian driving holiday?

Albania’s tourism star is rising, and I expect it will only get more popular in the years to come. Having visited in June/July the first time around and experienced the summer crowds, this time we chose the month of October for our road trip. It turned out to be a very wise decision.

It was still warm enough to swim, Tirana was quiet, and in the interior of the country, conditions were perfect for spending long periods outdoors.

Shoulder season (autumn or spring) is by far the best time of year for a road trip in Albania. We were able to get a great price on our rental car, had stress-free parking everywhere (including on the beaches and in all cities), and the roads were far less busy compared to summer.

One thing to consider is that the coast shuts down in the off-season. Restaurants and bars along the beach are mostly closed. On a few occasions we experienced zombie apocalypse scenes on the Riviera, where deserted bars still had liquor bottles and glasses set on the bar – as if everyone had picked up and left in a hurry.

Visiting smaller villages requires a bit more pre-planning and flexibility, as many businesses and services shut down after September. In October, we found all the accommodations we had earmarked were still accepting guests – but by November, many had closed off bookings for the year.

If you plan to add the north of Albania to your itinerary, note that the Komani Lake Ferry only runs in summer.

Where to rent a car in Albania

We used Local Rent to find our Ford Fiesta. I regularly use this platform to hire cars in Georgia , and in Albania, it was a similarly smooth process.

Local Rent differs from larger companies in that it sources cars from local agents. Prices are generally much lower – from 14 Euro a day in Albania. In October, our car cost 375 Euro for 2 weeks.

While all major agencies in Albania require a credit card in the driver’s name, Local Rent does not. ( No credit card was great news for us since we don’t have one.) There is no cash deposit required either – the only thing you pay in advance is a small online booking fee, which is refundable. The balance is settled in cash when you pick up the car.

Provided your licence meets the requirements, Local Rent agents in Albania do not require an International Driving Permit . All you need is your driving licence and ID (passport). Rules change, so for peace of mind I recommend contacting your agent in advance and asking them directly if they need an IDP.

Local Rent has a nice fleet of cars in Albania (including plenty of auto transmission options). Our small car did the job just fine, but it definitely struggled on some of the steeper roads.

You do not need a 4WD for this itinerary, but it’s not a bad idea to upgrade to a 4WD or SUV . In retrospect, I should have gone with a more robust car to tackle those hills and unexpected unpaved sections. I am still shocked that we didn’t get a single flat tire.

Use my affiliate link to search for a rental car in Albania via Local Rent .

5 quick tips for driving in Albania

1. Drive with dipped headlights at all times — Just like in Montenegro , it’s the law. This quirk definitely takes some getting used to. If you are driving an older car, my advice is to set a lights-off routine from day one to avoid a flat battery disaster.

2. Use Google Maps to navigate — Save for a few very minor glitches (mostly where new highways and bypasses had not yet been mapped), Google Maps never let us down. Pick up a local SIM card in Tirana before you set off. We had good coverage with Vodafone.

3. Don’t worry about tolls or vignettes — There is only one toll road in Albania on the A1 highway between Durres and Kosovo . Since you are not likely to be driving this way (my road trip itinerary doesn’t venture in this direction), you do not need to worry about tolls, vignettes or other permits provided you stay within Albania.

4. Carry cash for fuel & parking — Free street parking is plentiful in smaller cities and villages (especially in the shoulder/off season), but you will need cash to pay for parking in some cities and beach towns. The only place where we needed to pay for street parking was Korca. Most petrol stations are old-school and work on a cash basis. Regular gas goes by the name ‘Benzine’. Stay in the car; the attendant will do the pumping for you.

5. Relax! — For the most part, driving in Albania is an enjoyable experience. 99% of the roads we encountered were in good condition, and the local driving style is quite laid back.

The perfect 2-week Albania road trip: Detailed day-by-day itinerary

This route mostly follows state highways (SH) with a few backroad detours. As mentioned, all the major roads we drove were in near perfect condition with the exception of the road from Leskovic to Korce, which is unfinished in one section.

Approximate drive times for each leg are included in parenthesis.

This turned out to be a long post, so I have only included a couple of images for each stop. You can find plenty more photos along with detailed descriptions in my separate destination guides, linked throughout.

Day 0: Arrive in Tirana

If you’re flying into Albania, note that Tirana Airport is 30-45 minutes from the city centre. The easiest and most affordable way to get in from the airport is by using the shuttle bus. It departs every hour, on the hour, 24-7. Tickets cost 400 LEK per person and can be purchased using cash (LEK or Euro) on board. Find the full details here in my Tirana Airport arrivals guide .

Tirana Airport is small and self-explanatory. There are both ATMs and cash exchange booths inside the arrivals hall. I recommend withdrawing a small amount of local currency when you arrive, then finding an ATM in the centre that has lower fees (the cheapest we could find was the American Bank of Investment, which charges a fee of 500 LEK).

You will definitely need a local SIM card for navigating the roads in Albania. We chose Vodafone – even though the customer service was lacklustre, the price was satisfactory and coverage was good throughout our trip. We paid 2,000 LEK for 30 GB of data (valid for 30 days) plus an additional 200 LEK for the SIM. We bought ours in-store but prices at the airport appeared to be the same. Browse all packages here .

Depending on your flight schedule, you might have a full day or an evening in Tirana. I suggest spending it in the city centre, seeing the mandatory sights on Skanderbeg Square then crossing the river to the Blloku neighbourhood .

Do — Sightsee on Skanderbeg Square; visit Bunk’Art 2 Museum; climb the Pyramid of Tirana; dinner & drinks in Blloku.

Stay — Konak Skanderbeg Square offers self-contained apartments with a shared kitchen footsteps from the main square. The location is super convenient if you’re using the city bus to travel in from the airport and to the car rental office.

Further reading — My Tirana city guide .

Day 1: Tirana to Berat

• Distance covered today: 100 kilometres (62 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 2.5 hours
• Recommended route: Backroad through Picall > SH A3 via Kucove

Having arrived in Tirana a few days prior, we elected to collect our rental car from the agent’s office in the city centre. This meant we didn’t have to backtrack to the airport – to get to the office, we simply jumped on a city bus. It also meant that we could get straight onto the highway without driving through the city centre – a huge plus, since traffic in Tirana is always chaotic.

As is typical of my experience with Local Rent , the hand-over was very low-key. We signed our contract, paid in cash, and gave our car – a Ford Fiesta – a quick look over before setting off.

Whenever we drive in a new country, I find it helpful to pinpoint a couple of road stops within the first 30-60 minutes. The idea is to slowly warm up and have somewhere very specific to aim for.

Leaving Tirana, we headed straight to the Lapidari 2 Viewpoint (15 mins) on the southwestern side of the city. Our aim was to get a city view without putting in the legwork – it didn’t quite pan out, though. When we arrived, we discovered the road to the viewpoint was blocked to cars. We didn’t feel like walking for 45 minutes in the heat, so we abandoned ship.

It was still a good decision in hindsight because it introduced us to a backroad that we could use to travel down to our lunch spot, Fustanella Farm. The country road was completely empty and very scenic.

Fustanella Farm (30 mins) is a gorgeous farm-to-table restaurant on the outskirts of Tirana, with a rustic outdoor dining terrace set amongst olive and fig groves. It is perfectly positioned for a lunchtime stopover on the drive to Berat.

Halfway through an incredible lunch, we got a call from the rental office informing us we had left Ross’s driving licence in their photocopy machine. So unfortunately we had to turn around and head back to the city (luckily it was only a 20-minute detour on the highway). Driving back into Tirana at peak hour was a bit of a nightmare.

If it hadn’t been for that error, we could have connected directly to the highway and reached Berat in around 1.5 hours. Having wasted more than an hour backtracking to Tirana, we had to eliminate some stops from our itinerary. If you are making good time, there are several wineries located on the way into Berat, including Kantina Edoni and Kantina Luani . We only had time for a quick walk around the park in the industrial city of Kucove , which is arranged around old smokestacks.

It was late afternoon when we finally pulled into Berat . For a memorable experience, I highly recommend staying inside the castle grounds like we did. Be sure to take the turnoff after the bus station and use Rruga Muzak Topia to approach the castle from the back side (the main road is very steep and narrow). Some of the cobbled streets inside the castle peter out and turn into impassable laneways, so stick to the main streets and park wherever you see vehicles congregating. Our guesthouse provided clear instructions in advance.

After checking in, we went for an evening wander around the castle grounds before a well-deserved Birra Korca and an easy dinner at one of the restaurants inside the castle.

Stop — Lapidari 2 viewpoint; Fustanella Farm; Kucove; Kantina Edoni or Kantina Luani wineries.

Park — Free street parking is available inside Berat Castle.

Do — Evening walk through Berat Castle; sundowners at Te Zalua; dinner at TEMI.

Stay — Bed & Breakfast Josiph inside the Berat Castle walls (night 1/2).

Day 2: Full day in Berat

There is enough to see and do in Berat to comfortably fill a full day. A huge perk of staying inside the castle is being able to step out into the most beautiful part of Berat before the mid-morning crowds arrive.

We started our morning in the castle then made our way down the hill to cover Berat’s twin neighbourhoods, Gorica and Mangalem . During the hottest part of the day we found some respite by taking the audio tour at the Onufri Museum . Then we visited a few of the Byzantine churches , and enjoyed another stunning sunset from the castle grounds.

If a full day in Berat is too much, there is an option to take your car out for a drive in the afternoon. You can backtrack to a winery, or venture in the opposite direction to Osumi Canyon , 90 minutes away. There are waterfalls and caves nearby that you can also access by car. We visited Osumi on our first trip to Albania (in summer) and thoroughly enjoyed it.

Do — Early morning walk in the castle; explore the Gorica and Mangalem Quarters; afternoon at a winery or Osumi Canyon (optional).

Stay — Bed & Breakfast Josiph (night 2/2).

Further reading — My full guide to Berat .

Day 3: Berat to the Albanian Riviera

• Distance covered today: 203 kilometres (126 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 4.5 hours
• Recommended route: SH72 > SH4 > coastal road (SH8)

Despite having little interest in Albania’s beaches, we gave ourselves four full days on the Riviera with the goal of exploring the hillside villages behind the coast. If you are a beach person, three nights is ample time to get your dose of sand and sun.

Knowing we had a full day of sightseeing ahead of us, we organised to stay at the northern end of the Riviera to shave just that little bit of driving time off. The tiny village of Dhermi turned out to be one of my favourite places in Albania, with enough beach and non-beach activities to keep you occupied in any season.

Apollonia (75 mins) is a tentative UNESCO Site and the first of several Greek/Roman/Illyrian archaeological parks featured on this itinerary. In many ways I preferred it over the more-popular Butrint – you can be the judge (Butrint is coming up on day 6).

Founded in the 6th century BC, Apollonia was one of the largest settlements on the Adriatic. The thing that sets it apart (aside from its scale) is the fact that it had its own sculpture school. Thus the small museum inside the Archaeological Park is filled with incredible statues.

We set off early from Berat with the aim of arriving at Apollonia at opening time (9am during winter). The entire complex is outdoors and very spread out – it requires a fair bit of walking, so it’s best to avoid visiting during the hottest part of the day.

When preparing for this trip, I had read about an abandoned steam-power plant near the park. So we made a quick stop in the city of Fier for a hit of urbexing. A man in a reflective vest showed us around a few of the concrete carcasses and took us inside one of the abandoned cooling towers – unfortunately things went sour when he started demanding money from us for the ‘tour’. A little shaken up after his empty threats to call the police on us, we had to hotfoot it out of there.

Our next stop was a lot more vanilla. Albania’s third-largest city, Vlora (30 mins), boasts two of my favourite things: a pretty old town filled with colourful facades, and an impressive WWII memorial . We parked our car on a quiet side street and visited both on foot.

One of the main reasons I wanted to return to Albania was to spend more time around the Vjosa, one of Europe’s last wild rivers. It spills out into the Adriatic near Vlora, so I couldn’t miss the chance to see the Vjosa-Narta Delta Protected Area .

The Zvernec Islands sit in the delta’s Narta Lagoon and are the best access point if you don’t have a 4WD (if you do, off-road tracks are available on the northern side of the lagoon for birdwatching and secluded beaches). We drove the scenic road through a pine forest (approx. 30 minutes from Vlora) to the Zvernec Bridge and crossed the boardwalk over the marshes to the 13th-century St. Mary’s Monastery .

Departing Vlora, we headed south along the coast towards the Riviera proper and arrived at the Llogara Pass (45 mins) just as the light was dwindling. This 15-kilometre stretch of highway is one of the most scenic roads I have ever been on – up there with the Kotor Serpentine that we drove in Montenegro . As you crawl down the mountain, you descend into a sea of low clouds, with the Adriatic stretched out before you like a blue satin sheet.

The marked viewing platform on the highway was quite crowded, so we continued down the road a little further to the ’Big Bunker’ , a Hoxha-era monstrosity perched on the cliff. We climbed down into the bunker and got a front-row seat for sunset.

Dhermi is one of the first major villages you come to after descending the pass, so you can catch the sunset and still make it to your accommodation before dark. We did just that, arriving in time to enjoy a twilight beer on our little terrace at Roots Dhermi .

Stop — Apollonia Archaeological Park; Fier; Vlora & the Zvernec Islands; the Big Bunker & other viewpoints on the Llogara Pass.

Park — Free street parking is easy to come by in Dhermi out of season. If you see a congregation of cars near an intersection, chances are the surrounding streets are either too narrow or too steep to navigate. Follow suit and find a park where there are other cars gathered.

Do — Tour the Apollonia Archaeological Park; urbex at the Fier Kraftwerks; grab lunch in Vlora old town; walk the boardwalk to St Mary’s Monastery; drive the Llogara Pass; watch the sunset at the Big Bunker.

Stay — Roots Dhermi (night 1/2).

Day 4: Full day in Dhermi

Dhermi is split into two parts: the lower and newer Dhermi is a beach resort like any other, with bars and hotel developments cramped along a pebble shore. The older part of Dhermi, the upper village, is a world apart. All white-washed houses and cobbled lanes with a blue-domed Greek-style church belltower stealing the show, the restored village is one of the most beautiful places in Albania.

We gave ourselves a full day in Dhermi to wander the streets at sunrise and sunset, walk the historic Mills Trail down to the waterfront, and stroll along the restored promenade .

Dhermiu Beach is clean and relatively quiet, making it a good choice for swimming. Alternatively, the trailhead through Gjipe Canyon to the popular Gjipe Beach is just a 7-minute drive away in Iljas – we considered it, but decided to spend our afternoon eating tzatziki in Dhermi instead.

Food options in Dhermi are limited in the off-season. We ate our breakfasts (Italian coffee and byrek) at Barba Niko Bakery and had a nice pasta lunch directly opposite at Restorant Genti . For dinner, Sofia Bar in Dhermi serves grilled fish and a mean tzatziki. The terrace here is a prime spot for sunset.

Park — We left our car in the same spot for most of the day. To save time, we drove to the local bakery to pick up breakfast and drove into town for lunch. Street parking was easy to find on both occasions.

Do — Explore charming Dhermi; hike the Mills Trail to Dhermi Beach; lunch in Dhermi town; Gjipe Canyon & Beach (optional).

Stay — Roots Dhermi (night 2/2).

Further reading — Things to do in and around Dhermi .

Day 5: Dhermi to Upper Qeparo

• Distance covered today: 35 kilometres (22 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 60 minutes
• Recommended route: SH8

Qeparo is another lovely beach town 40 minutes south of Dhermi. Its proximity to both excellent beaches and several more villages and castles makes it a convenient base.

Like Dhermi, Qeparo is split into an upper and lower village – but the difference is much more stark. Upper Qeparo has not been restored and is partially abandoned, with a good portion of its stone houses in a state of disrepair. A rare example of traditional Albanian village architecture as it was, its beauty is more the decrepit kind.

We spent two nights in Upper Qeparo, but on one of those days it was raining (good timing for us because we were due for a lazy day). An afternoon plus a morning in Qeparo is ample time to explore the village.

Day 5 of our road trip was packed with stop-overs as we hopped down to Qeparo over the course of around five hours. We arrived in Vuno (15 mins) bright and early and were the only two pairs of feet padding the stone streets under vaulted arches. The incredible St. Nicholas Church – a forgotten chapel with vivid frescoes totally exposed to the elements – was a highlight.

Himara Castle (15 mins) commands exceptional sea views and was another highlight of the Riviera for me. Cafe Butterfly inside the fortress grounds serves good coffee and sweet snacks.

We had planned to drive down to the ‘Submarine Bunker’ in Porto Palermo, but after seeing it from afar from the highway, we decided against it. As much as I would have liked to swim into the concrete tunnel, it wasn’t quite what I imagined – and the road down looked dicey.

Unfortunately we arrived to find Porto Palermo Castle (25 mins) closed on a Monday (the schedule changes in mid-October), so we flew our drone over the triangular fortification instead.

The road to Upper Qeparo (25 mins) is steep but short and fully sealed. We arrived in the village with a couple of daylight hours to spare, and spent them getting lost on the backstreets and walking through the olive groves to Ali Pasha’s Tower before settling down to a delicious dinner at Te Rrapi ne Qeparo .

Stop — Vuno; Gjipe Canyon & Beach (optional); Himare Castle; the Submarine Bunker viewpoint; Porto Palermo Castle.

Park — We parked our car at this wide crossroads at the entrance to the village. It is possible to drive deeper into the village, but we didn’t want to risk it.

Do — Wander the cobbled streets of Vuno & find St. Nicholas Church; explore Himare Castle; stop for a view of the Submarine Bunker; visit Porto Palermo Castle; afternoon stroll through Upper Qeparo; dinner at Te Rrapi ne Qeparo.

Stay — Villa Porta Qeparo .

Further reading — My guide to Old Qeparo .

Day 6: Upper Qeparo to Gjirokaster

• Distance covered today: 133 kilometres (83 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 3.5 hours
• Recommended route: SH8 > SH81 > SH99 > SH4

The drive inland from Qeparo to Gjirokaster was by far the longest of our trip. I was a little concerned that we would run out of time, but we managed to fit everything in.

Bookended with an indulgent breakfast in Saranda and golden hour at the Field of Bunkers, it was a perfect day from start to finish. My only regret is not spending longer in Saranda – I really liked the city’s aesthetic – but after four days, we were more than ready to leave the beach behind.

Leaving Qeparo, we made a beeline for Saranda (60 mins) and had time for a short stroll on the waterfront before an excellent breakfast at Marini . Driving through the city during morning peak hour was a little sketchy – and it was challenging to find a park on the waterfront – so I recommend arriving as early as possible.

On the edge of Saranda, Butrint National Park is Albania’s most-visited attraction and oldest UNESCO Site. I had high expectations and to be completely honest, I found Butrint a bit disappointing. The Roman Forum was much smaller than I had imagined, and the floor that was previously flooded has been covered over. The museum was excellent, but having a guard shadow us the entire time to enforce a no-photo policy really detracted from the experience.

Most disappointingly of all, the baptistry mosaics pictured on every tourist brochure were completely covered in sand (later in the trip we would encounter the same thing in Lin). I had no idea this was standard practice – surely it’s possible to build a roof or insert a horizontal screen and project an image of the mosaics onto it?

The highlight of Butrint for me was the scenery and walking trails along the water.

If we had more time, we could have explored Ksamil and its beaches and islands, or used the car ferry outside the archaeological park to access the Venetian Triangle Castle . Instead, we drove back through Saranda and headed east to start our journey towards Lake Ohrid on the opposite side of the country.

You need a solid two hours minimum to visit the Blue Eye or Syri i Kaltër (40 mins), a 164-feet-deep sinkhole enveloped in azure pools and lush forest. Though it is undeniably beautiful, I found it over-commercialised – the concrete road you have to walk to get there is an eyesore. I’m glad we went, but I don’t consider it an essential stop.

After driving another 30 minutes towards Gjirokaster, we got up close and personal with some of Albania’s concrete mushrooms at the Field of Bunkers (30 mins). There are a dozen or more bunkers of all shapes and sizes dotted around the field alongside a quarry – many have their original door mechanisms intact, and some are big enough to walk inside. Don’t follow Google Maps – take this turn-off instead.

There is an option to stop at the nearby Hadrianoplis Theatre , but the non-road requires a 4WD (or at least something more robust than a Fiesta).

We arrived in Gjirokaster (30 mins) ahead of schedule and enjoyed a local dinner near our accommodation in the new part of the city. Gjirokaster was a breeze to navigate, and we had no issue finding a spot to leave the car.

Stop — Saranda; Butrint National Park; Ksamil (optional); the Blue Eye; Field of Bunkers.

Park — Free street parking is available in Gjirokaster. We parked in the small lot attached to our apartment complex.

Do — Eat breakfast at Marini in Saranda; tour Butrint Archaeological Park; visit the Blue Eye; photograph the Field of Bunkers; dinner in Gjirokaster.

Stay — Jani Studio Apartments (night 1/2).

Day 7: Full day in Gjirokaster

Gjirokaster might be my favourite city in Albania. Like Berat, it has a historic ‘core’ that is protected under a shared 2005 UNESCO listing. Personally I prefer it over Berat – I adore the Old Bazaar area, and Gjirokaster has a greater variety of things to see and do.

We spent our day in Gjirokaster revisiting old favourites and ticking off a few things we missed the first time around. I highly recommend getting an early start and wandering the Old Bazaar just after dawn . The Obelisk is a must-visit for panoramic views.

My highlights of Gjirokaster were touring the Cold War Tunnel , eating traditional oshaf fig pudding for breakfast, and going inside the magnificent Zekate House before walking the backroads to Gjirokaster Castle .

We waited out the warmest part of the day inside the Ethnographic Museum . Alternatively, you can stretch your legs on the 2-ish kilometre hike through town to Ali Pasha’s Bridge . We did it on our first visit to Gjirokaster – it has since become quite popular. (Tomorrow there is a more spectacular Ottoman-era aqueduct to see outside of Tepelena.)

We finished the day with a feast at Restorant Pajtimi , a humble local joint outside the tourist hub. Their version of tave kosi (Albania’s national dish of lamb baked in yogurt) was the best I had.

Do — Take an early morning stroll in the Gjirokaster Bazaar; tour the Cold War Tunnel; walk to Ali Pasha’s Bridge; visit Gjirokaster Castle for sunset; dinner at Restorant Pajtimi.

Stay — Jani Studio Apartments (night 2/2).

Further reading — 10 things to do in Gjirokaster .

Day 8: Gjirokaster to Permet

• Distance covered today: 84 kilometres (52 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 2 hours
• Recommended route: SH4 > backroad towards Bence > SH75

Pressing east from Gjirokaster we entered the most exciting phrase of our Albania itinerary. From this point on, it was all new territory for us (with the exception of Korca, which we had visited twice before) – and we were finally getting a glimpse of the Vjosa River, which was a major inspiration for the trip.

Permet on the Vjosa is a small city with huge potential. It is the self-appointed nucleus of Albania’s emerging Slow Food movement, with half a dozen or more restaurants that respect the philosophy. It is also a burgeoning ecotourism destination, with hiking and mountain biking trails popping up along the river and in the nearby Fir of Hotova National Park.

We were happy with our decision to stay in Permet for two nights – I loved the town’s aesthetic, and it meant we could try more restaurants (we managed five in total!). On our first night, we treated ourselves to a suite at Villa Permet . It was fabulous. On our second night, we moved to Guest House Shtepia ime .

On the way to Permet, we stopped at Ujë Ftoht Cafe (30 mins) for coffee and plate of Albanian pancakes with local honey. The lovely location on the Drinos River would be perfect for summer – in October it was a bit blustery.

We soon arrived in Tepelena (10 mins), birthplace of the legendary Ali Pasha of Ioannina, whose footprint is all over Albania and the Balkans . Tepelena Castle was not at all what we were expecting (I won’t spoil it for you). There is some very interesting Soviet-esque architecture in the centre of town.

Tepelena has a dark past as the site of an internment camp where an estimated 3,000 people were imprisoned during the communist era, around 500 of whom never saw freedom again. There are plans to turn this camp and the notorious Spac Prison into museums ; for now the site remains partially abandoned. I got the chills just seeing it from afar and did not want to go any further.

Ali Pasha’s Aqueduct is a short 10-minute detour from Tepelena via a scenic mountain road and was one of my favourite road stops. An incredible feat of Ottoman engineering, it was still used to irrigate fields up until a few years ago. The aqueduct has been partially reconstructed and a walking path built to access it from the highway. If you have time, a new marked hiking trail starts from behind the aqueduct.

We spent a good half hour photographing the aqueduct from different angles as the sun started to peek above the mountains, casting awesome shadows. Knowing we had a hike of sorts coming up later that day, we continued down to Permet (60 mins) and checked into our first hotel.

In the afternoon we embarked on the hike from Permet to Leus , a small village above the town. It’s only a 30-minute walk, but the steep incline and rough terrain makes it feel a lot longer.

When we arrived, we were elated to find a group of Chinese tourists and their guide, who was weidling a giant key, gathered in front of Leus Orthodox Church . It meant that our slog up wasn’t in vain – we were going to be able to see the interior. Painted from the rafters to the floor, with inlay wood ceilings and a mezzanine level you can climb to get closer to the dome, this is by far the most beautiful church I have seen in my life. I am not a particularly religious person, but it was nothing short of a transcendental experience.

Still buzzing from our holy encounter, we spent another half hour wandering around Leus between haystacks and sweet cottages.

As wonderful as Villa Permet was, my biggest regret of the trip was not booking a night at Chri Chri Guest House in Leus (I tried, but they were sold out). It would have been wonderful to stay overnight in the tiny village, and I bet the owner can organise a visit to the church. Transfers are available from Permet for those who don’t have a 4WD.

Stop — Ujë Ftoht Cafe; Tepelena Castle; Ali Pasha’s Aqueduct.

Park — Free street parking is easy to find in Permet.

Do — Breakfast at Ujë Ftoht Cafe; walk through Tepelena Castle; visit Ali Pasha’s Aqueduct; hike to the Orthodox Church of Leus from Permet.

Stay — Villa Permet or Guest House Shtepia ime in Permet or Chri Chri Guest House in Leus (night 1/2).

Day 9: Full day in Permet + Benja Thermal Springs

• Distance covered today: 14 kilometres (7 miles)
• Recommended route: SH75 > Benja Road

If it’s the season, then you could spend a day mountain biking on one of the newly marked trails around Permet or rafting on the Vjosa River . There is an information booth in the centre of town where you can hire bikes and inquire about river expeditions.

We didn’t have the best weather, so we spent the morning wandering the flagstone paths through Permet Old Town , browsing the cute antique shops – and most importantly, eating local cuisine . Of the half a dozen Slow Food restaurants in Permet that we managed to fit in, Bar Restaurant Trifilia was my favourite.

The drizzle had cleared by the afternoon so we made our way to the Benja Thermal Springs , a 30-minute drive away on the fringe of Fir of Hotova National Park. Set in the spectacular Langarica Canyon beneath the arched Ottoman-era Kadiut Bridge, there are seven separate pools fed by different mineral waters. It was reasonably crowded on an October afternoon, but I still enjoyed the experience. More secluded swimming spots can be found by trekking deeper into the canyon via the riverbank – but alas, we didn’t have the right footwear.

In the evening, we scaled the staircase to the top of Guri i Qytetit , a giant rock dropped in the centre of Permet, ahead of a satisfying dinner and glass of house wine at Te Culi Slow Food .

Do — Soak in the Benja Thermal Springs & hike through the gorge; explore Permet town; eat at Permet’s Slow Food restaurants.

Stay — Villa Permet or Guest House Shtepia ime in Permet or Chri Chri Guest House in Leus (night 2/2).

Further reading — My guide to Permet (coming soon).

Day 10: Permet to Leskovik

• Distance covered today: 54 kilometres (34 miles)
• Recommended route: SH75 > SH80 > backroad to Sarandaporo > SH65

Today’s drive was the most anticipated of the trip – but of course we woke up to torrential rain. The clouds petered out as the day went on, but a heavy fog followed us all the way to Leskovik. I still managed to snap a few photos of the Vjosa River Bend (30 mins) and of an abandoned bridge wrapped in fall foliage.

This time last year, Leskovik was not at all on the tourist trail. The tiny town in one of Albania’s most prestigious wine regions is still a bit of an obscure choice – the main reason we picked it was to break up the longest drive of the trip from Permet to Korca.

As it turned out, Leskovik is a very interesting place. When Enver Hoxha was in charge, Mavrud wines and raki from Leskovik were earmarked exclusively for him and the party elite. The mineral-rich soils here yield spectacular grapes, and even though the wine industry is a fraction of the size it once was, you can still see vast vineyards wrapped around the imposing limestone massif as you wind your way into the town.

Named after that rock, Melesin Distillery is a new boutique hotel that is putting Leskovik back on the map. We splurged on a night here and didn’t regret it one bit – it was the best accommodation of our trip. The restaurant is top notch, serving local dishes alongside Leskovik wine and gin distilled in-house.

We spent the afternoon exploring Leskovik and made a brilliant ‘discovery’ when we stumbled on a set of bunkers with military diagrams painted on the walls. The town is very small and can be covered on foot in the space of an hour.

If the weather is on your side, then I suggest stopping at the Sarandaporo Thermal Springs on the way into Leskovik. (We backtracked to the springs the following morning.) A local alternative to Benja, Sarandaporo is located right on the Greek border. At one point we inadvertently wandered across the state line. Whoops.

Crafted from stone blocks, the baths sit high above the river and are fed with bubbling sulfuric waters. The location is nothing short of spectacular. We were concerned about the road, but it turns out a freshly sealed road has been installed – part of the way, at least. We had to drive for around 10 minutes over gravel then walk another 30 minutes along the riverbed to find the springs. It was certainly an adventure.

Stop — Vjosa River Bend Viewpoint; abandoned bridge; Sarandaporo Thermal Springs.

Park — Free parking is available in front of Melesin Distillery.

Do — Stop for photos of the Vjosa river bend & abandoned bridge; swim in the Sarandaporo Thermal Springs; gin tasting & dinner at Melesin Distillery.

Stay — Melesin Distillery .

Further reading — My guide to Leskovik .

Day 11: Leskovik to Korca/Voskopoja

• Distance covered today: 85 kilometres (53 miles) (or 105 kilometres to Voskopoja)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 3.5 hours (or 4 hours to Voskopoja)
• Recommended route: SH75

Day 11 was the longest drive of the trip, mostly because of the road conditions. Construction on this highway has been ongoing since summer. Once complete, it will shorten the drive time considerably.

As it currently stands, the worst section of road is around Barmash. Mostly compacted gravel, it’s far from the worst road I’ve seen,  but it is bumpy and slow going. After Erseke, it is all smooth sailing over a freshly tarred highway.

Unsure of just how long the drive to Korca would take, we were very selective with our stops and only made quick photo breaks in Barmash and Erseke for the war memorials. We planned to visit the Kamenica Tumulus Archaeological Museum , but like most museums in Albania, it was closed on a Monday.

Unperturbed and grateful to be nearing our destination well before sunset, we continued to Voskopoja, a small village 30 minutes outside of Korca.

Voskopoja is famed for its high concentration of Orthodox churches that date back to the 18th century when it was one of the biggest cities in the Balkans and a centre of Aromanian culture . We only managed to see two of the half a dozen churches we had bookmarked – the rest were closed for restoration and covered in scaffolding (please do take this into consideration when planning a trip; works are not expected to be completed before summer 2024). Of course there was no information anywhere online about the closures.

We did manage to get inside the 1751 Profet Ilia Monastery , which almost redeemed Voskopoja with its sunset magical-ness.

Overall though, Voskopoja was a let down – not only because of the churches being closed, but also because the whole place had a slightly off-putting, almost fake feel to it. After visiting so many lovely villages earlier in the trip, Voskopoja just didn’t do it for me.

I recommend staying in Korca for two nights and potentially adding a half-day trip to the village if you’re desperate to see the churches.

Stop — Various WWII memorials; Kamenica Tumulus Archaeological Museum.

Park — In Voskopoja, park at your guesthouse or on the street. In Korca, you must pay to park in the city centre (find a spot, and an attendant will come and find you to exchange cash for a paper ticket that you should display on your windshield).

Do — Kamenica Tumulus Archaeological Museum (optional); Voskopoja (if staying in Korca).

Stay — Villa Domenico (Korca) or Stone Villas (Voskopoja).

Day 12: Full day in Korca

Less than 40 kilometres from the border with Greece, Korca is completely unique among Albania’s cities. Long a stronghold of education and culture, it has its own unique character and – not surprisingly – a strong Greek vibe.

This was our third visit to Korca. We first came here back in 2019 on our way overland to Thessaloniki , and on this trip, we entered Albania via Korca in a taxi from Kastoria .

Between the restored Old Bazaar and the many excellent museums, Korca has enough points of interest for one day. Don’t miss the National Museum of Medieval Art or the Birra Korca Brewery , a delightful beer garden serving Albania’s oldest brew.

This time around we joined the Free Walking Tour of Korca . It is quite casual and fun, and for an introduction and orientation, it’s a good way to spend a couple of hours. Other highlights were eating lakror, a giant pie that is Korca’s specialty dish, at Shija e Saçit , hiking to the Martyrs Cemetery , Varrezat e Dëshmorëve, at sunset, and driving up to the Kryqi Moravë viewpoint just after sunrise.

Do — Climb the Panoramic Tower; visit the National Museum of Medieval Art; walk in the old town & Old Bazaar; drive to the War Memorial & church viewpoint; beers at the Birra Korca brewery.

Stay — Villa Domenico .

Further reading — My Korca city guide .

Day 13: Korca to Lin (Lake Ohrid)

• Distance covered today: 107 kilometres (66 miles)
• Time in the car today: Approx. 3 hours
• Recommended route: SH3 via Sovjan

Having visited the North Macedonian side of Lake Ohrid (and the eponymous Ohrid) back in 2019, I was quite keen to see how the ‘other side’ of the lake compared. We ended up spending two nights in the area, staying in Pogradec (the biggest Albanian city on the lake) and in the cute village of Lin further north.

My conclusion: Albanian Ohrid is sparser and feels more threadbare. While you could happily spend a week in Ohrid city (like we did), Pogradec by comparison is small and a bit dated. You only need to spend one night on the lake – and it should definitely be in Lin.

Pogradec is a quick 50-minute drive from Korca via Sovjan. If you are so inclined, stop off to grab a coffee or breakfast, walk the waterfront promenade, and peek at the old houses in Toplec Quarter ( around this point ).

Another 20 minutes and you will reach Lin , which is everything Pogradec is not (sorry, Pogradec!). Now believed to be the oldest continuously inhabited village in Europe, it boasts Paleo Christian mosaics and Albania’s most photogenic bunker . Like Dhermi, Lin is another small village of cobbled streets and vernacular architecture that was made for wandering.

An hour or so away from Lin, the Royal Tombs of Selca date back to the days of the Illyrian Kingdom and were carved from the rocky terrain between the 4th and 1st centuries BC. Though not at all compulsory, the tombs are an adventure – and the rural location is quite spectacular. On the way, we stopped for the Ottoman-era Golikut Bridge , one of the loveliest stone bridges in Albania.

It is faster and easier to access the tombs from Lin (rather than Pogradec). Presently there are roadworks in this area, which makes it difficult to locate the correct road. Follow the sealed bitumen road as far as you can, past the bridge, turn left onto the new road, then continue along the concrete path.

Despite it being a tentative UNESCO Site, there is next to no signage for the tombs. We parked our car near the lone sign board then took a guess that the tombs would be located on top of the hill – we were right, thankfully. To find them, follow the concrete stairs to the top. The first few tombs are nice, but the most impressive ones are located around the corner.

Back in Lin, we checked into our delightful room at House 1960 , put in our dinner order, and explored the village on foot. The caretaker unveiled a corner of the Lin Mosaic for us (like in Butrint, it is covered in sand for posterity), then we hiked out onto the peninsula to see the bunker caught between the glassy lake and a stormy sky.

Stop — Pogradec; Golikut Bridge; the Royal Tombs of Selca.

Park — Lin village is tiny and parking is very difficult. House 1960 has a designated lot, but it only fits a couple of cars. Be sure to mention that you are driving so that hosts Merita and Emri can save you a spot.

Do — Stroll the waterfront in Pogradec & see the old town; stop at the Golikut Bridge; explore the Royal Tombs of Selca; peek at the Lin Mosaic; hike the peninsular for sunset from the Lin Bunker; fish dinner at House 1960.

Stay — House 1960 .

Further reading — My full guide to visiting Lin .

Day 14: Return to Tirana

• Distance covered today: 106 kilometres (66 miles)
• Recommended route: SH3 via Elbasan

Waking up in Lin on the final morning of our road trip, we took one last walk down to the lakefront and greeted a trio of fishermen just as they were bringing in their haul. In under three hours we would be back in busy Tirana – so we savoured every last vignette of village life.

From Ohrid Lake, it is a straight shot along the highway back to Tirana via Elbasan. We had arranged to return our car in the late afternoon so we paced ourselves with a couple of stops here and there. The city of Elbasan (90 mins) looked interesting and I would have liked to have a proper walk around – maybe next time.

The road between Tirana and Lin follows the communist-era railroad that once connected all of Albania, but has long since been abandoned. Inspired by this guide , we stopped at the impressive Bushtrica Bridge and did a bit of urbexing at the abandoned train station in Xhyre . We also stopped in Perrenjas to photograph the industrial complex that has been decorated with ladybug murals.

Google Maps routed us back into Tirana via the same highway we had left on. We knew exactly where to go to get back to the rental office. Returning the car took less than five minutes, then we jumped a bus back to the city centre. We had enough time for an afternoon walk in the city and dinner in Blloku before flying out the following afternoon back to Kutaisi .

Stop — Lin viewpoint; Perrenjas street art; Xhyre abandoned railway station & bridge; Elbasan (optional).

Do — Early morning walk in Lin to greet the fishermen; stop at the Lin viewpoint; explore the abandoned train station and bridges around Xhyre; lunch in Elbasan (optional); return your car; afternoon walk in Tirana; dinner in Blloku.

Stay — Konak Skanderbeg Square is a self-contained apartment with a shared kitchen. We chose it because of its proximity to the square – it was easy to get to by bus from the rental car office, and easy to get away using the airport bus that also departs from the square ( more information about getting back to Tirana Airport in this guide ).

Albania Travel Guide

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Planning a trip to North Macedonia and Albania this summer, and your guides are (as always) amazing and such a plethora of ideas! Thank you from a Swedish reader

Thanks so much, Ulrika! Two of my favourite countries in the region. I hope you have a wonderful trip!

What an informative article. I have not visited Albania, but it is high on my list. This will make planning and decisions much easier.

Thank you for all your helpful travel information.

Sylvia Short USA

Thanks Sylvia, I hope you get a chance to visit Albania soon!

Thank you so much for all of those information !!! it will really help me. I read that you need to have a 4×4 to drive around in permet, because of the road, but you look fine in the fiesta? was there a disclosure in the car location that you have to stay in paved road? thank you sooo much!!!

Hi Magali – that was probably true this time last year, but in summer they redid all the roads. Apart from the short section that I mention, it is completely new and sealed. The unsealed part is still a road, it’s just a bit rough. We had to take it slow, but we had no issues at all with our small car.

What a wonderful description of your trip. It’s so detailed and beats many well-known guidebooks. Having visited Albania it brought back memories. I look forward to reading about other journeys. Bravo and thank you so much.

Thanks so much Tony! It was an incredible trip!

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Albanian Road Trip: An Epic & Flexible 7-10 Day Itinerary

This post may contain affiliate links, from which we earn an income.

Are you ready for an unforgettable adventure? Pack your bags and join us on an Albanian road trip, where breathtaking scenery, Ottoman architecture, exceptional food, and off-the-beaten-path places await.

From the stunning Albanian Alps to the turquoise waters of the Ionian Sea, our journey will take you through charming villages, ancient ruins, vibrant cities, and UNESCO sites. Get ready to taste delicious local cuisine, meet friendly locals, and discover hidden gems along the way.

In this Albania road trip planner, we’ll share the best Albanian road trip itinerary, insider tips, must-see destinations, and practical advice to help you plan your own epic adventure. Whether you’re a seasoned traveler or a first-time explorer, a road trip in Albania is an experience you won’t want to miss.

Where is Albania?

The Republic of Albania is a small, mountainous country in south-eastern Europe’s Balkan Peninsula, bordering the Adriatic Sea to the west, the Ionian Sea to the south, and with land borders to Greece in the south, the former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia in the east and Montenegro and Kosovo in the north.

Albania’s landscape ranges from the snow-capped mountains in the Albanian Alps and the Korab, Skanderbeg, Pindus, and Ceraunian Mountains, to the almost tropical hot and sunny beaches and turquoise waters of the Mediterranean.

Is It Safe to Visit Albania?

Albania is geographically in Europe but not in the EU, and a bit off the beaten track. This makes the country a great place for adventure and you’ll still find a real sense of wilderness.

Unfortunately, Albania has gained a somewhat unfair reputation as a crime-ridden nation but in fact, it’s relatively safe to travel in Albania. There are mild threats, but nothing that should stop you from visiting and having an amazing time.

Do pay attention to personal and vehicle security and avoid any political rallies or demonstrations, which can flare up quickly. Crime and violence do occur in some areas but are not typically targeted at foreigners.

We felt very safe for the whole three months we spent in Albania.

Getting to Albania

Whether you’re traveling to Albania in a car, motorcycle, or campervan from Europe, or picking up a hire car, self-driving is absolutely the best way to explore this fantastic Balkans country.

You can stop whenever you want, try new activities, visit places you see along the route, and have the freedom to change plans at the last minute.

Fly into Albania’s Tirana International Airport (Nënë Tereza) . With direct flights from Europe, it’s easy to connect with the States, Middle East and the UK. We recommend booking through Skyscanner for live deals and the best prices.

Are you planning to rent a car in Albania? As one of the largest car hire aggregator companies in the world, we recommend Rentalcars.com because they have massive purchasing power which enables them to secure the best rental car prices, which benefits you when you’re planning a road trip.

For a real adventure, hire a motorhome or campervan in Albania. We recommend AutoEurope for their large range of fully equipped vehicles, competitive pricing and great customer service. Use the Park4Night app to find overnight spots and campsites along the route.

Best Time for Visiting Albania

Spring in Albania lasts from mid-February until mid-April. The early spring weather is mostly rainy and cold, with temperatures starting to warm up from mid-March. The wildflowers begin to bloom and the mountain landscape comes alive, making late spring one of the best times to visit Albania.

Summer months in Albania often bring heat and drought. During the summer the sky is usually very clear and rain is pretty much non-existent except for some mountain areas, where the average July temperatures are a pleasant 23ºC / 73ºF.

Autumn in Albania is quite short and begins in late October, lasting little over a month. It often rains in the fall, but it’s not cold, with the average temperature being a mild 18ºC / 64ºF. The fall colors will be spectacular and Albania’s autumn fruits and nuts are at their peak during this harvesting season.  

Winters in Albania are seriously cold and wet. It snows and rains right across the country and the coldest month of January only manages average daily temperatures of 7ºC / 45ºF at sea level and between minus 12-20ºC / 10 to -4ºF in the mountains! Winter is definitely not our favorite time to road trip Albania!

Road Trip Albania Map & Route

This 7 to 10 day road trip from Tirana hits all the highlights, with charming towns and cities, communist and Ottoman history, castles and palaces, and natural wonders on the itinerary.

This Albanian itinerary will easily stretch to two weeks if you prefer to slow travel and take in more sights as you go. Why not spend longer in your favorite places, and check the interactive map for attractions and landmarks nearby? 

• Get the Travel Guides
• Bradt Albania Travel Guide
• Lonely Planet Western Balkans: Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Kosovo, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia and Slovenia
• The Ultimate Guide to Albania Travel: 2023 Update
• One Week Albania Itinerary

Tirana – Durrës – Berat – Vlorë – Porto Palermo – Sarandë – Ksamil – Muzinë – Përmet – Pogradec – Kruje* – Theth* – Shkodër*

*optional stops on the 10 day itinerary

• Distance: 683 miles / 1099km
• Duration: 7-10 days
• Drive Time: 21 hours

How to use this map – Use your fingers (or computer mouse) to zoom in and out. Click or touch the icons to get more info about a place, and click the arrow in the box top left to open the index. To add to your own Google Maps account, click the star next to the title of the map.

Albania Road Trip Itinerary

Day 1: tirana to durrës.

Tirana   is the capital of Albania, a city known for its Ottoman, Fascist, and Soviet-era architecture, recent communist history, and lively social scene, and is the perfect starting point for your Albania road trip itinerary.

It is best to start your visit to Tirana in Skanderbeg Square. You can walk here to the National History Museum, Et’hem Bey Mosque, and Bunk’Art 2 Museum . The latter is a museum housed in a former nuclear bunker and offers a fascinating insight into Albania’s communist past. 

From the main square, you can also see the clock tower and the statue of Albania’s national hero, Skanderbeg, a medieval Albanian feudal lord and military commander who led a rebellion against the Ottoman Empire in 1450, which made him a savior in the Western world.

Visit the Enver Hoxha Pyramid . This pyramid-shaped building was built as a mausoleum for Albania’s former communist leader, Enver Hoxha. It currently serves as a cultural center and popular tourist attraction.

Go shopping at the Pazari I Ri, Tirana’s primary market. Here you can find everything from fresh produce to crafts and souvenirs.

Take a cable car to Mount Dajti . It offers stunning views of Tirana and the surrounding countryside. Enjoy lunch on the edge of Dajti Mountain at Restaurant Ballkoni Dajtit which offers superb food, excellent service, and exceptional views at over 3,280 feet / 1,000 meters above sea level.

Less than two hours south of Shkodër is Durrës , a coastal city known for its beautiful beaches, historic landmarks, and lively atmosphere. 

First on your list of places to explore should be the Durrës Amphitheater . This historical landmark dates back to the 2nd century CE and is one of the largest theaters in the Balkans, with 20,000 seats.

The impressive 5th century Venetian Tower of Durrës Castle is near the theatre. This historic fortress is a great place to explore and offers beautiful views of the city and the sea.

Follow it up with a visit to the Archaeological Museum , home to a collection of artifacts from the ancient city of Dyrrhachium, including pottery, jewelry, and statues.

Enjoy the seaside promenade in Durrës, a popular place to walk, jog, or bike. Or relax on the beach for an hour or two. Durrës Beach extends over six miles and boasts soft sand and crystal-clear waters. 

Treat yourself to dinner at Cosmo Restaurant or Restaurant Arberia for great beach views.

Durrës is known for its cultural events, including the Durrës International Film Summer Festival , which takes place every August – it’s worth planning to be in Durrës for the festival if you’re traveling in summer.

RELATED POST: Things to Do in Albania: 18 Amazing Highlights

• Where to Stay in Durrës

Upmarket: Hotel Villa Pascucci – Booking.com | Agoda

Mid-Range: Hotel Kloest – Booking.com | Agoda

Budget: Old Town Villa – Booking.com | Agoda

Make sure you have travel insurance you can trust when visiting Albania . We recommend True Traveller for their 5-star TrustPilot reviews, variety of cover options, best activities cover as standard, great prices, and excellent service.

Day 2: Durrës to Vlorë

Berat is a historic UNESCO World Heritage Site city 60 miles south of Durrës, known as the ‘Town of a Thousand Windows’.

Explore the Mangalem and Gorica neighborhoods in Berat on either side of the Osum River. They are known for their historic architecture, narrow streets, and colorful houses, giving rise to the town’s nickname.

Go to the National Ethnographic Museum located in the historic Mangalem neighborhood to learn about the traditional way of life in the region, including traditional clothing, tools, and household items.

Visit Berat Castle , a historic fortress on a hill in the city’s center. It dates to the 4th century and offers beautiful city and countryside views. Explore the Onufri Museum inside the Berat Castle. It houses a collection of icons and religious artifacts dating from the 1500s.

Afterward, walk along the Osum River to see the 18th century Gorica Bridge, a historic Ottoman-era bridge in the Gorica neighborhood that offers beautiful views of the river and the city.

En route to Vlorë, make a stop to see the ancient Apollonia Archaeological Park . Apollonia was an ancient Illyrian city set on rolling hills on the right bank of the Vjosa River. Surrounded by olive groves, the highlights in this off-the-beaten-path place include the theatre and the elegant pillars of the restored facade of the city’s 2nd century BCE administrative center.

Once in Vlorë , visit the Independence Museum. This historical landmark commemorates Albania’s independence from the Ottoman Empire in 1912. Here you can learn about the country’s struggle for freedom and the prominent figures that played a vital role in the liberation.

Afterward, head to Muradie Mosque . This ancient mosque, built in the 1500s, is an important religious site for Muslims and non-Muslims and features intricate design and glorious architecture.

Another notable landmark is the 4th century Kanina Castle . Visit this historic site on the outskirts of Vlorë to learn about its vital role in the country’s history and enjoy the panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.

Back in Vlorë, take a walk along the promenade that stretches along the coastline or enjoy the sunset at one of the famous beaches, like Radhima Beach, Orikum Beach, or Dhërmi Beach.

Visit Flag Square, a large square in the center of Vlorë that houses a giant flagpole with the Albanian flag. It’s a popular spot for taking pictures and watching the sunset.

Afterward, dine at Te Fabio or Les Amis Restaurant for the best coast views.

RELATED POST: Beautiful Albania: 16 Most Scenic Places to Visit

• Where to Stay in Vlorë

Upmarket: Hotel Aross – Booking.com | Agoda

Mid-Range: Mazarine Hotel – Booking.com | Agoda

Budget: Maxi Room – Booking.com | Agoda

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Day 3: vlorë to sarandë , porto palermo.

Drive to  Porto Palermo  via the Llogara Pass, a famous Albania coastal road that connects the Dukat Valley in the north with the Albanian Riviera in southern Albania. The pass sits within the Ceraunian Mountains and runs along the Albanian coast, peaking at 3,422 feet / 1,043 meters above sea level.

A Top Gear favorite, the Llogara Pass is widely held to be the most scenic road in Albania and one of the best driving roads in Europe and is on many travelers’ bucket lists.

The SH8 road is now fully paved but requires caution as the road is narrow in places, needs constant braking and frequent gear changes due to steep ramps at 11% gradient, and there are tight hairpin bends and a lack of barriers in some areas.

Porto Palermo is a small village with a beautiful bay and a historic castle. Upon arrival, visit the 19th century Porto Palermo Castle. This historic landmark is on a small peninsula overlooking the bay. The castle was initially used as a military base during World War II. Today, it is a popular attraction and offers stunning views of the surrounding area.

You can visit two bunkers that have survived the Cold War, the Old Submarine Bunker , and the Porto Palermo Tunnel.

The beautiful beach at Porto Palermo is secluded and rocky with clear blue water. It is a great place to swim and sunbathe, and there are a few small bars and restaurants nearby where you can grab a drink or a bite to eat.

Take a boat tour from Himarë, about twelve minutes from Porto Palermo. Most tours will take you to the bay, beaches, and coves. This is a great way to see the area from a different perspective and explore some of the hidden gems only accessible by boat.

Afterward, enjoy lunch at Porto Palermo Restaurant before heading to Sarandë.

Sarandë is a beautiful coastal town an hour from Porto Palermo, known for its pebbly beaches, vibrant nightlife, and ancient archaeological sites.

Catch some afternoon sun at Mango Beach or Gjiri I Midhjeve Beach, or stroll through Sarandë town and explore the Synagogue Complex , a historic site showcasing the region’s Jewish heritage. It includes a synagogue, a Jewish cemetery, and a museum.

Next, visit the Sarandë Archaeological Museum to learn more about the region’s history and culture. It features artifacts from the ancient city of Butrint in the Butrint National Park and other nearby sites.

Another historical landmark worth visiting is the Lekursi Castle . This medieval castle is on a hill overlooking Sarandë, offering breathtaking views of the sea and the surrounding countryside.

Afterward, dine at Hera Restaurant or Balbi 34.

• Where to Stay in Sarandë

Upmarket: Hotel Butrinti & Spa – Booking.com | Agoda

Mid-Range: ArtNest Luxury Hotel & Suites – Booking.com | Agoda

Budget: Sunset Suites – Booking.com | Agoda

Want to plan your own road tri p? Get our step-by-step road trip planning guide to help you organize the perfect trip, or check out our Europe road trip ideas .

Day 4: Sarandë to Muzinë  

Ksamil is a picturesque village a 20 minute drive south of Sarandë, known for its beautiful beaches and crystal-clear waters.

Start your exploration of the area by visiting the Ksamil Islands, a group of four small islands located off the coast of Ksamil in the Ionian Sea. Here you can enjoy pristine beaches, translucent waters, and stunning views.

In Ksamil, you can sunbathe or swim on Pasqyra Beach, Puerto Rico Beach, or Lori Beach where you can also enjoy watersports like swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking. There are quite a few places to rent equipment and take lessons.

Visit the Ali Pasha Castle, a 19th century fortress on a hill overlooking Ksamil. It offers visitors stunning views of the sea and the surrounding countryside.

Another notable historical landmark is the Butrint Ancient Theater . It dates back to the third century and includes several inscriptions carved on its stones.

Walk in the charming village with narrow streets and traditional houses to better understand local life. 

Ksamil is known for its seafood, so treat yourself to some on the beachfront at Abiori Bar Restaurant Pizzeria or The Mussel House Restaurant .

Muzinë is a small village at the foot of the Gribe Mountains. En route there, stop at the Manastiri I Shën Nikollës monastery to admire its impressive exterior and interiors.

The most popular tourist destination near Muzinë is the  Blue Eye water spring or Syri i Kaltër – not to be confused with the one in Theth, there are two official Blue Eyes in Albania!

The blue water of the river forms part of the Blue Eye Nature Preserve and is over 164ft / 50m deep. It is about an hour’s walk from the Blue Eye parking lot and back, so put at least two or more hours aside for the hike and time spent in the spring.

While Muzinë is a small village, several restaurants still serve traditional Albanian dishes. Try Taverna Mouzina for Greek and Mediterranean dishes.

RELATED POST: Blue Eye Albania: Visit Sarandë & Theth Natural Pools

• Where to Stay in Muzinë

Mid-Range: Margaret’s Guest House, Mesopotam – Booking.com | Agoda

Budget: Hotel Mesopotami – Booking.com | Agoda

Looking for the best SIM card deals in Europe for your trip? Check out our guide to the best data SIMs in Europe and get the best deal for your trip to Albania.

Day 5: Muzinë to Gjirokastër

Gjirokastër.

About an hour from Muzinë is the popular town of Gjirokastër and prepare to be transported in time! Perched above the town of Gjirokastër is a majestic fortress that not only offers panoramic views of the surroundings but also allows you to immerse yourself in centuries of brutal history.

The intricate architecture and the stories that echo within its walls make this castle a must-visit. In the old town below the fortress are distinct cobbled streets lined with handicraft shops and restaurants serving the local delicacy of tavë kosi , a mouthwatering baked dish of lamb and yogurt that’s unique to Gjirokastër.

The well-preserved Ottoman town is one of the most historic and architectural sites in Albania, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With the castle dominating the city and the old wooden houses of the bazaar enticing you in, there’s lots to do in the birthplace of communist leader Enver Hoxha.

• Where to Stay in Gjirokastër

Upmarket: Kerculla Resort – Booking.com | Agoda

Mid-Range: Palorto Traditional Hotel – Booking.com | Agoda

Budget: Aria Guesthouse – Booking.com | Agoda

Day 6: Gjirokastër to Përmet

Përmet , nicknamed ‘The Hero City’, is a charming town 55 miles north of Muzinë. It is known for its beautiful natural scenery, hot springs, and one very large stone!

The City Stone is a prominent rock formation that measures 138 feet / 42 meters high with a top surface of 650 square meters, upon which is an archeological site that is thought to date back as far as the 4th century.

Stories about the City Stone have been passed down in Përmet from between generations and many believe that the town of Përmet was named after a hero from the Middle Ages who was called Premt.

According to legend, Premt was the ruler of the fortress on top of the City Stone and when the town was invaded Premt threw himself from the Stone rather than suffer death at the hands of the enemy.

Make sure to explore the Old Bazaar. This is a great place to discover the town’s traditional culture and crafts and purchase souvenirs. You can find jewelry and textiles and try traditional Albanian delicacies and snacks here.

The magnificent Kisha e Shën Kollit or St Nicholas Church is a stone’s throw from the old city. Admire its stonework and stunning views.

Enjoy dinner at Bar Restaurant Sofra Permetare or Villa Permet Restaurant for local cuisine.

Langorica Canyon

A popular activity among visitors is the Bënja thermal baths , located a few kilometers outside town at the entrance to the magnificent Langorica Canyon, which is guarded by an ancient Roman bridge. The natural hot springs are known for their healing properties and are surrounded by stunning mountain views.

There are several pools close to the bridge but venture on foot into the canyon for secluded hot spots at the bottom of the towering walls.

Adrenaline hunters can also pick up rafting expeditions on the mighty Vjosa River from Përmet. Try Albturist Eco Camping for an unforgettable experience.

• Where to Stay in Përmet

Upmarket: Hotel Hymeti’s Palace – Booking.com | Agoda

Mid-Range: The Mosaic House – Booking.com | Agoda

Budget: Vila Culli – Booking.com | Agoda

Day 7: Përmet to Tirana

Pogradec is a beautiful town located just over 100 miles from Përmet. On your way there, stop at Villa Teo for a break and refreshments.  

The lakeside promenade is a great place for a walk to enjoy the view of Lake Ohrid. Afterward, you can explore Pogradec’s history by visiting one of the 13th century Saint Naum Monastery or The Monumental Tombs Of Lower Selca, about an hour’s drive from Pogradec center.

If you have time, hike up to the Pogradec Panoramic Viewpoint for breathtaking views of the town and its surroundings.

About an hour north of Tirana is the historic city of Kruj ë . It is known for its castle, bazaar, and association with Albania’s national hero, Gjergj Kastrioti, commonly known as Skanderbeg. 

Visit the impressive 5th century Krujë Castle for stunning views of the surrounding area. It is one of Albania’s most visited historical sites, housing a museum dedicated to Skanderbeg and the resistance against Ottoman rule. 

Head to the Ethnographic Museum on the castle grounds to learn more about Albania’s traditional lifestyle and architecture.

Explore the Old Bazaar and Dollma Teqe at the foot of Krujë Castle. The bazaar offers a glimpse into traditional Albanian life through handmade crafts and souvenirs like hand-woven carpets, hand-thrown ceramics, and traditional Albanian food.

The Dollma Teqe is a Bektashi shrine known for its beautiful architecture and peaceful atmosphere.

Try traditional Albanian cuisine at Rooms & Restaurant Emiliano (Krujë Castle) or Restaurant Bardhi and eat byrek , a meat and cheese-filled pastry, tave kosi , a lamb and yogurt dish, and baklava , a sweet treat made with honey, filo pastry, and nuts.

If you’re following the seven day itinerary, here is where you head back to Tirana for your flight home. If you’re following the ten day road trip, read on!

• Where to Stay in Krujë

Upmarket: Kruja Albergo Diffuso – Booking.com | Agoda

Mid-Range: Rooms Merlika – Booking.com | Agoda

Budget: Villa Duka – Booking.com | Agoda

Don’t forget your road trip essentials! Our free road trip checklists help you remember everything, including road trip snacks , podcasts , and road trip songs for the journey!

Day 8: Kruj ë to Theth

The historic city of Shkodër is known for its rich culture and beautiful natural surroundings. 

Explore Shkodër’s historic center and admire the beautiful Ottoman-era architecture. From there, visit attractions like the Ebu Beker Mosque and the Marubi National Museum of Photography . The latter has over 500,000 photographs on exhibit, including many historical images of Albania.

Head to St. Stephen’s Catholic Cathedral , known simply as Shkodër Cathedral, to admire its impressive neoclassical architecture.

Afterward, visit Rozafa Castle, a fortress on a hill overlooking the surrounding area. The castle is named after Rozafa, who, according to legend, agreed to be buried alive inside the walls – you can find out more about the bizarre legend when you visit and see the statue of Rozafa erected on site.

Enjoy lunch or dinner at Bar Restaurant Elita or Puri for local cuisine.

Theth is a two hour drive from Shkodër, located high in the Albanian Alps, known as the Accursed Mountains.

The drive to Theth from Shkodër is dramatic and picturesque. You no longer need a 4×4 to take this journey, as the new road is asphalt all the way, but you will need to take it slowly as this mountain route has many twists and turns, switchbacks, and steep drops.

Due to poor weather conditions during the winter months, the road to Theth is closed between November and May each year. If you are planning a trip to Theth make sure you go during the summer or early autumn.

• Where to Stay in Theth

Upmarket: Hotel Kulla e Bajraktarit, Bogë – Booking.com | Agoda

Mid-Range: North Alpine Villas, Bogë – Booking.com | Agoda

Budget: Molla Guest House – Booking.com | Agoda

Day 9: Theth

The mountain village of Theth is a playground for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts. The stunning natural features like the Blue Eye of Theth and the Grunas Waterfall are nothing short of a spectacle, offering fantastic photo opportunities and a moment to connect with nature. 

Make sure you visit the Church of Theth, Kisha e Thethit , which is an architectural gem that, with its dramatic mountain backdrop, creates an idyllic view you won’t soon forget!

You should also visit the well-preserved Lock-in or Blood Tower of Theth. It is a traditional 17th century Albanian tower that offers visitors a glimpse into the local culture and life and is known for having imprisoned all of those who had committed serious crimes against the  Kanun of Lekë Dukagjin , a set of oral traditional Albanian laws codified in the 15th century.

The famous Theth Blue Eye is fed by a waterfall on the Limi i Zi or Kaprreja River, which flows into the limestone pool. The Theth Blue Eye is fast becoming as popular as the Sarandë Blue Eye, although it is a bit more off the beaten path and does take a bit more effort to visit.

Most hikers take the 9.7 mile / 15.6km trek to the famous waterfall, which takes approximately six hours there and back, following the nearby river as you go. It is not a difficult route with little elevation gain, but it is long, so make sure to take a water bottle with you.

You can also hire a taxi from Theth to Nderlysaj instead. From there, it is only a 30 to 40 minute hike to the Blue Eye one way. 

At the trailhead, there are a few restaurants and bars overlooking the river, before you cross the Ndërlysaj Bridge to pick up the 30-40 minute Vaskat Ndërlysaj hiking trail through the woods that surround the whole area.

The 2.5 km route is well-traveled and follows a flat path for a kilometer or so before you start to gain elevation on a narrow dirt track through the trees. This track undulates a fair bit, and there are rocks, steps, and tree routes to negotiate, and if it’s been raining it can be slippery so wear decent walking shoes or sturdy trainers.

Try some local cuisine at Villa Gjecaj Restaurant or Jezerca Restaurant for food with an Italian flair.

Day 10: Theth to Tirana

The final day of your road trip sees you heading down the mountain. Stop at Shkodër if time is a bit tight on the way through, or take more time to explore Tirana before heading to the airport.

If you have more time and your own or a hire car, the countries of Montenegro, Greece , Serbia, Kosovo, and even Italy are all within easy striking distance.

Albania Road Trip Essentials

Here are the websites and services we personally use and recommend for traveling in Albania.

• Search for affordable flights to Albania with Skyscanner
• Search for availability and book hotels and accommodation in Albania with Booking.com
• Find and book the best campsites in Albania with Pitchup
• Book the cheapest and most reliable hire cars in Albania with Rentalcars.com
• Find and hire your perfect motorhome or campervan with Motorhome Republic
• Get highly rated, reliable, and trustworthy travel insurance with True Traveller
• Check if you need a visa and arrange your documents with Visagov

Traveling & Driving in Albania

If you are a confident driver, you shouldn’t find it too difficult to drive in Albania. However, you should be aware that Albanian drivers can be quite erratic, and not all of the roads are paved or kept in good condition, especially in rural areas, although their motorway network is reasonably well maintained.

Whether you’re traveling in your own car, touring Albania in a motorhome, or flying in and renting a car for a driving tour, you need to follow these rules on your Albania roadtrip.

• You must have at least three months remaining on your passport at your intended departure date from Albania.
• British and EU citizens can enter and remain in Albania for a maximum of 90 days in every 6 month period without a visa. American citizens are generally allowed to stay in Albania for up to one year without a visa.
• You must have at least 3rd party insurance for your vehicle. Not all insurers cover driving in Albania so check before you go and make sure you’re covered.
• Citizens of non-EU third countries may require an International Driving Permit for driving in Europe . You can check whether you need an IDP here .

Rules of the Road

• Albania drives on the right and overtakes and passes on the left.
• You must carry a warning triangle and first aid kit by law. We also recommend that you carry at least one reflective jacket within the passenger compartment of your vehicle and a fire extinguisher.
• Snow chains are compulsory to carry if you’re driving between 1st November and 30th April.
• Vehicles from the right and emergency vehicles have priority.
• If you drive at night, watch out for unmarked roadworks, potholes, and unlit vehicles on the roads.
• Speed limits vary across Albania, so always check the signposts for maximum speeds. In urban areas, the limit is usually 40km/h unless otherwise signposted and 80km/h – 90km/h outside these areas. On the motorway, the limit is 110km/h.
• If you’re involved in any sort of collision, you must wait until the police arrive.
• There are no toll roads or low-emission zones in Albania.

RELATED POST: Driving in Europe – Everything You Need to Know

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Our perfect Albanian Riviera itinerary – 1 and 2 week options!

Have you ever visited somewhere with minimal expectations and been seriously surprised? This was us in Albania! The beaches are incredible, up there with some of the very best in Europe! The locals are friendly, and there’s lots of great things to do and see in this booming travel destination.

We visited for a little over a week in 2022 just as Albania was hitting the radar of many travellers and travel bloggers. The Albanian Riviera itinerary below is based upon our well research stay and covers of what we think is the perfect way to spend your time along this beautiful stretch of coastline. We give both 1 and 2 week options pending your ideal length of stay! If you think we have missed some of your favourite options, comment below to let us know!

The perfect Albanian Riviera travel itinerary!

The entire Albanian Riviera is truly extraordinary, boasting a stunning coastline with numerous world-class beaches and cute towns. Based upon our experience during our visit, thorough research and many discussions with others who have travelled here, we recommend a few must visit areas and provide a consideration for a number of other great options to include in your itinerary. We also provide a few sample itineraries and link to other Albanian travel guides.

MUST VISIT along the Albanian Riviera:

Please note this is based upon our personal experience and opinion, which may differ from others.

1. Himare: This costal town ranks as one of our favourite beachside destinations from our European travels so far. Enjoy the calm and crystal clear water of the main beach, the authentic local food and friendly locals. Additionally, the ability for day-trip options really elevates Himare. In particular, nearby beaches of Porto Palermo and Gjipe Beach are worth visiting! See our Himare guide including top picks, accommodation and more here!

2. Gjirokaster: The small inland town of Gjirokaster is definitely a hidden gem! We consider it one of the best small towns in Albania, and possibly in all of Europe! Nestled into the hills with views of mountains, Gjirokaster is made up of cobbled old streets and charming Ottoman houses, whilst its historic castle sits impressively overlooking the town on the hill. Gjirokaster is a a great foodie town and overall very cheap! The town comes to life at night, so we recommend you stay at least 1 night! This town is located around 1.5 hours inland from Sarande. See our trip and guide to Gjirokaster here!

Other GREAT OPTIONS to look at when visiting the Albanian Riviera:

• Ksamil: Come to Ksamil for beach clubs, good vibes, seafood and azure waters. Ksamil is also a great entry point to the Albanian Riviera due to the locality from Sarande and Corfu.
• Butrint National Park: An easy day trip from Sarande or Ksamil, this national park offers historic old ruins and less popular beaches. Best explored with via car or private tour, however taxi or busses can be used here. We would recommend this if you are staying longer than a few days in Ksamil or Sarande.
• Borsh Beach: A popular and top stop along the peninsula. This strip of coastline offers one of the wider beaches of the Albanian Riviera. Locals recommend this place for families, however we didn’t manage to find time to visit. The pictures look beautiful, and it may be worth investigating more during your trip along the coast.
• Berat: This old inland town sits a little further north than Gjirokaster, meaning it’s not quite as easily accessible if you visit from Sarande. However, old historic houses pain a beautiful picture and if we had our time again, we would include this in our road trips. If you are planning a longer road trip through this region of Albania, it’s definitely worth considering!
• The Beaches: This is the main reason you should visit the region! Either for a day trip, or to stay nearby in the cute little beachside towns, visiting the incredible coastline is a must! Consider beaches like Porto Palermo, Gjipe Beach, Jale Beach, Borsh and more!
• Dhermi/Vlore: The other bigger towns along the Riviera offer excellent alternative options to Himare if looking to base yourself along the coast. We didn’t visit them, but have seen great photos and reviews of these locations.
• Hiking? This is a great and highly underrated option in Albania. Sadly we didn’t include enough time on our trip to include this, but we have seen others on some incredible hikes and encourage you to do some research here!
• Tirana: While it is considered to be up and coming as a city, this may be a little ‘out of the way’ compared to the Riviera. If you are looking to road trip, flying into Tirana may be a good option and driving down via towns like Berat and Vlore.
• The Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër ): This freshwater spring is located inland on the trip towards Gjirokaster, making it an easy and ideal day trip option or addition to your road trip. However, it gets busy (so arrive early) and is a little ‘touristy’.

Our Albanian Riviera Itineraries:

Option 1: 1 week albanian riviera itinerary.

This is the perfect way to sample the Albanian Riviera, giving you enough time to see a few locations. We have included 3 of the top picks in your stay, and recommend hiring a car or driver to get around due to the poor public transport infrastructre.

• Fly in to Corfu: The Greek Island of Corfu represents the closest airport to the Albanian Riviera and the easiest way to enter. Land in Corfu and either stay a few nights or head straight to the ferry.
• Ferry to Sarande: Be prepared for chaos. There is poor organization, things run late, and it’s busy! Book in advance and make sure to book the fast ferry.. it’s worth the extra cost! It will take between 40mins-2 hours.
• Taxi to Ksamil: Either book a car hire or catch a taxi down to the nearby Ksamil. This will take around 1 hour.

Stop 1: Ksamil 2-4 nights: The beachside town of Ksamil has surged in popularity mostly due to social media clips of the azure water beaches, beach clubs and cheap prices. Spend a few relaxed days here with day trip options to the nearby Butrint National Park or ‘hidden beaches’.

Stop 2: Gjirokaster 1-2 nights: Head back to Sarande and pick up a car (or drive from Ksamil straight there). Head inland 1-2 hours to Gjirokaster. This little town is definitely one of our favourite spots in Albania and worth staying a night rather than rushing the day trip!

Stop 3: Himare 3-5 nights: A Himare how we love you! Spend a relaxed few days in the charming beachside town. If you have a car, head for day trips to nearby beaches (e.g. Gjipe, Porto Palermo etc). See our Himare Guide here including top accommodation picks!

End: Drop your car back in Sarande, catch the ferry to Corfu, and fly from this Greek Island onwards to your next stop.

Option 2: 2 week Albanian Riviera itinerary

The extended visit over 2 weeks gives you much more time to really explore the region and beautiful coastline. It also provides the opportunity for more inland adventures, including smaller towns like Berat, Gjirokaster, and possibly seeing the capital Tirana.

Part 1: as above – the first week of your road trip in Albania will look similar to the itinerary above. Consider adding 1-2 more nights to both of Ksamil and Himare to ‘slow down’ a little and enjoy the trip. You may also want to spend a night in Corfu to help slow the travel.

• Fly in to Corfu
• Ferry to Sarande
• Taxi to Ksamil

Stop 1: Ksamil 2-4 nights

Stop 2: Gjirokaster 1-2 nights

Stop 3: Himare 3-5 nights

Part 2: The Additions

Stop 4: Pick 1 of Vlore/Dhermi/Borsch 2-5 nights : These are some of the other beautiful beachside towns along the Albanian Riviera that are begging to be explored. Spend another few nights at one or multiple of these towns!

Stop 5: Berat 1 night: This inland town looks like another hidden gem, and is worth exploring, especially if you’re heading back up to Tirana to drop off a car. Spend 1-2 nights here exploring the charming old town streets.

Stop 6: Tirana 1-2 nights : This is your finishing point. With the reputation as an up and coming city in Europe, Tirana forms your base for 1-2 nights to explore and then fly out of their airport (the biggest in Albania).

Alternative End: Keep your car hire and drive up into the must visit Montenegro (option 1) OR head east to the incredible Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia (option 2). Both require reasonable amount of driving but form excellent options to prolong your travel in the region. Additionally, you could easily complete the road trip in reverse, flying into Tirana and exiting in Corfu (perfect base to explore the Greek islands).

• See our Kotor (Montenegro) guide here.
• See our Lake Ohrid (Noth Macedonia) guide here.

Want to see more Albania & Balkan travel guides and memories:

Want to see more of Albania? Take a look at our memories and travels in Albania !

The Albanian Riviera might be Europe’s best kept secret

Don’t Miss the Balkans for Your Next Europe Adventure

• Our visit to Gjirokaster!
• The beaches of Ksamil!
• The beachside town of Himare!

Visiting the nearby Greece? Check out some of our thoughts on the Greek Islands we visited:

• Have a read about our stay in Naoussa and the island of Paros!
• Want to visit Santorini? See if we think it’s worth it!
• Read about our time in Antiparos, one of our favourite day trips yet!
• Want to do another great day trip on Paros? Consider a visit to Lefkes!
• Take a look at travel content from Greece ! And follow all of our travel moments here!

Check out further highlights from our time in the Europe! Take a look!

Did we miss anything? Please let us know in the comments below if there’s any great ‘travel hacks’ or places we missed from Albania!

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Europe 1 Month Itinerary – 5 great options to help you plan the perfect trip!

Our Europe travel guide for 2023 & 2024

If we had 3 months in Europe this is where we would go! [3 Month Itinerary]

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Albania Itinerary: Complete 2-Week Road Trip

Welcome to the most unexpected destination in Europe : beautiful Albania! A diverse country that will take your breath away, from the beaches (similar to those in neighboring Greece ) to the mountains, which wouldn’t look out of place on a Swiss postcard. Combine this with the delicious food, Ottoman towns, and incredible hospitality of the locals, and Albania is set to top every traveler’s bucket list. Use this complete 2-week Albania itinerary to explore this remarkable destination.

The Ultimate Albania 2-Week Itinerary

Traveling in Albania is magical, as you discover a country home to the last wild river of Europe, incredible mountains, and white sandy beaches.

Also read: Best Things to do in Albania .

Despite this well-preserved nature, the country is developing fast, and the infrastructure continues to go from strength to strength. Because of this, the roads are good, so we recommend completing your Albania itinerary by car.

If you don’t have a car, it is possible to travel by bus, but it does take more time. Plus, you’ll have a lot more flexibility if you choose to do a 2-week Albanian road trip. 

Did you know? Surprisingly, 60% of the country is Muslim, but all religions live together in harmony. You’ll notice beautiful mosques and the sound of the call to prayer echoing out across the ancient towns and vistas.

Day 1: Tirana to Berat

On day 1, fly into the colorful capital city of Albania: Tirana . We recommend finding a morning or early afternoon flight, so you have time to collect your hire car and drive directly to Berat (2 hours). Don’t worry about missing out on the beautiful sights of Tirana , as you’ll come back to the city on your final day. 

How to get from Tirana to Berat

Rent a car from the airport and drive directly to Berat . The drive takes approximately 2 hours, and the roads are in good condition (with most of the journey on the highway). 

We recommend to rent a car in Albania through Sunny Cars with free cancellation and insurance included. Book your rental car here .

Buses in Albania are reliable and very cheap. The only downside is that your journey might take a little longer than by car.

From the capital city, buses to Berat are very frequent (run roughly every 30 mins) and cost 500 LEK (4.30 USD). The bus ride takes 2 hours and 15 minutes. 

Where to Stay in Berat

When you reach Berat, book yourself into a traditional guesthouse. We recommend staying in the neighborhood of Gorica as it’s more affordable and only just across the bridge from the town center.  See all your hotel options here .

Hotels in Berat 😴

Day 2: Berat  

On day 2, explore the extraordinary city of Berat , a place home to incredible Ottoman architecture. It’s known as the city of a thousand windows, and it’s easy to see why; beautiful window panes face downhill onto the River Osum.

Read: Things to do in Berat, Albania .

Unusually, two neighborhoods face each other across the water with bridges connecting them, so it’s fun to move between the areas, wandering the charming cobbled streets.

Make sure to also walk up to the impressive Byzantine Church and the castle ruins, which are left at the top of the hill—it’s the perfect place to go for views of the valley below, especially at sunset. 

Day 3: Berat to Gjirokaster

On Day 3, wake up and enjoy a typical Albanian breakfast of bread, butter, yogurt, fruit, and olives, before your 3-hour drive to Gjirokaster . This is a very scenic drive, so take it slow and make regular stops to get some photos. 

How to get from Berat to Gjirokaster

First, you need to drive to the city of Fier before continuing your route along the beautiful Drino River. Google Maps might suggest a shorter way via Komar, but this is a route only accessible for 4×4 cars. In total, the drive will take around 3 hours (longer if you’re taking regular breaks).

There is a direct bus to Gjirokaster from Berat , which takes approximately 3 hours. However, the bus makes many stops along the way, so be aware it could take a little longer. There are 3 buses daily, 2 of which leave at 2 PM (the last bus of the day).

Where to Stay in Gjirokaster

Stay centrally in Gjirokaster, within the old town which sits high on the hill with beautiful views. It’s definitely worth it, even with the walk! See all your hotel options in Gjirokaster .

Hotels in Gjirokaster 😴

Day 4: Gjirokaster

Gjirokaster is one of the most memorable towns on your Albania 2-week itinerary. This beautiful town is full of houses with white facades, complete with wooden balconies and stone roofs in the typical Ottoman style. There is also a magnificent fortress that sits high on the hill.

Because of its history, everything is carefully preserved, and it’s been awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. If you want to learn more about the town’s interesting past, there is a museum within the fortress. 

Read all about the things to do in Gjirokaster .

Spend your day in Gjirokaster wandering among the characteristic houses and browsing the cute shops selling carpets and ceramics. You can even visit inside the homes to see the interior of what a traditional Ottoman house would look like. The most beautiful thing of all, though, is the scenery; the town is surrounded by mountain ranges and towering ridges.

Day 5: Gjirokaster to Ksamil (via Syri i Kaltër/Blue Eye) 

On day 5 of your Albanian road trip, begin your journey to Ksamil , a beautiful coastal town on the ‘Albanian Riviera’. On your way, break up your trip with a stop at the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), a crystal clear emerald pool that is perfect for swimming.

It takes just 30 minutes to drive here from Gjirokaster and then a 15-minute walk from the parking spot. When you arrive, you’ll be met by the most gorgeous sight: beautiful blue and green colored water that comes fresh from a natural spring.

The water is numbingly cold but so refreshing, especially in the summer! It does say that you’re not allowed to swim, but plenty of people do so (there was a guard there patrolling, and he only asked people not to jump from the platform). We recommend arriving as early as possible in the morning to avoid the summer crowds. 

Entrance fee: 50 LEK (0.50 USD)

After your swim, dry off and head back to the car for the rest of your trip. Follow the road to Saranda, and continue on to Ksamil from there. From the Blue Eye, the journey takes approximately 1 hour.

Tip: Ksamil and Saranda are neighboring coastal towns and both popular choices on an Albania itinerary. However, Sarande is much more of a party town than Ksamil, so it depends on your preference.

How to get from Gjirokaster to Ksamil

The drive from Gjirokaster to Ksamil takes around 1 hour and 20 minutes. However, that doesn’t include time for your stop at the Blue Eye. Allow for 2 hours at the Blue Eye to relax, have a swim, and enjoy walking through nature. 

There are no direct buses running from Gjirokaster to Ksamil. Instead, you will need to take a bus to Saranda and, from there, take a taxi to Ksamil. Buses leave Gjirokaster every 20-30 minutes and take about 1 hour.

If you’re traveling by bus, you won’t be able to make a stop off at Syri I Kaltër (Blue Eye). However, tours run regularly from Gjirokaster and Saranda and include return transport.

Where to stay in Ksamil

Once you arrive in Ksamil, choose to stay close to the beaches, ideally within 10 to 15 minutes walk. See all your hotel options here .

Hotels in Ksamil 😴

Day 6: Ksamil

The beach paradise of Ksamil is a must-see on your Albania itinerary. Sitting on the coast of the Albanian Riviera, it’s home to incredible beaches, which aren’t dissimilar to the south of France (hence the name!). Turquoise ocean backs onto soft yellow sand that’s covered in a sea of multi-colored beach umbrellas—bliss!

Read about the things to do in Ksamil, Albania .

There are also 4 small islands on the coast which are perfect for exploring. Hire a kayak or a SUP and paddle out to explore the rocky outcrops, jumping off into the water to cool off at any opportunity. You can also do boat tours to some of the bigger islands and even take a ferry to Corfu, Greece !

By day, choose a private or public beach, and hire day beds from chic beach clubs. By night, do as the locals do and enjoy promenading along the seafront, stopping for a bite to eat in the warm evening air. 

Day 7: Butrint National Park

Day 7 is all about history as you embark on the next part of your Albanian road trip! Stay in Ksamil for another night, but venture away for a half-day trip to Butrint National Park (one of the most important historical sites in the whole country). Discover this remote national park, full of roman ruins and now a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site .

As you wander between the unique stone monuments, you’ll be shaded by many beautiful trees, and you’ll never be far from the clear turquoise water that sits nearby. Because of this, it’s doable to visit in the middle of the day (although we advise visiting in the morning for fewer crowds).

Read everything about Butrint National Park

Spend 1.5 to 3 hours in the park, finishing your walk at the beautiful castle where there is a great view.

Entry Fee: 700 LEK (6.10 USD)

How to get from Ksamil to Butrint National Park

Butrint National Park is only a maximum 15 minutes drive from Ksamil, so it’s straightforward to reach by car.

There are 3 small squares by the main road where you can catch a bus to Butrint National Park. You must request the bus as otherwise, it’ll just drive on. Because of this, it’s safer to get a taxi to give you more flexibility.

Organized Tour:

Organized tours to Butrint Park run from larger cities like Saranda and normally include other locations like the Blue Eye and Ksamil.

Day 8: Ksamil to Himarë

Wake up on day 8 of your Albania 2-week itinerary and head for the beautiful beach town of Himarë , another gem on the Albanian Riviera. The journey in total takes around 2 hours.

Read everything about Himare, Albania.

Castle Palermo (Optional Stop)

If you have time, make a stop at the incredible Castle Palermo. This mammoth, triangular-shaped fortress sits on top of a cliff on a peninsula overlooking the most beautiful blue ocean.

Also read: Historic Krujë Castle.

Park for free close by and wander towards the castle, looking out over the dazzling sea and beautiful olive groves. Once you’re in the castle, you can learn more about its history (it was built for an Ottoman governor as his home and defense fortress). You can even walk upstairs to the rooftop for fantastic views!

If you have time, there is also a beach underneath the castle where you can relax and swim for a few hours.

Entry Fee: ​​300 Lek (2.5 EUR or 3 USD)

How to get from Ksamil to Himarë

By car is the best way to get to Himarë , particularly if you want the flexibility to make a stop at Palermo Castle. The journey in total between Ksamil and Himarë is just under 2 hours. The journey time is more or less the same if you make a stop at Castle Palermo (it’s 1.5 hours to the castle and 25 minutes from there to Himarë). 

There are no buses from Ksamil to Himarë. You must travel by taxi or book a private transfer .

Where to Stay in Himarë

Once you’re in Himarë, you have two bays to choose from. One has many hotels and restaurants, and the other is quieter as it’s still in development. Wherever you choose, you’ll find both smaller guesthouses and beautiful luxury hotels.

Hotels in Himare 😴

Ideally, stay for 1 or 2 nights, choosing accommodation close to the beach. See all your hotel options in Himarë .

Tip: Camping is also possible in Albania and is the perfect way to explore the country’s dramatic landscapes and diverse nature.

Day 9: Himarë  

Himarë is a beautiful beach destination north of Ksamil and Butrint National Park . The advantage of visiting this coastal town is that it’s far less crowded than Saranda and Ksamil, and it’s considerably cheaper than the nearby town of Dhermi.

It is home to wide sweeping bays with the most perfectly calm, clear ocean, and it’s not as busy, so you won’t find the beaches packed with parasols and beds. 

Read: Best Things to do in Himare .

Spend the Afternoon in Dhermi

However, although we recommend basing yourself in Himarë on your Albania 2-week itinerary, you should definitely try and make a visit to the nearby town of Dhermi. Not only is it close to some of the most fantastic beaches, but it’s an authentic hillside village in Albania.

Walk through its cobblestone streets with pretty houses and churches, stopping to take photos of the beautiful coastal views. It’s a great place to visit in the afternoon or evening for sunset. 

Day 10: Himarë to Kruje

One of the most beautiful drives on your Albanian road trip is the one from Himarë to Kruje . Although it’s a long drive (4-5 hours), it moves across stunning landscapes, especially the first 1.5 hours on the road to Vlore—which is absolutely breathtaking.

As you go, you’ll pass through the luscious Llogara National Park, riding along the high coastal road, which provides you with epic views of the cliffs, beaches, and Adriatic sea. Vlore itself is very green and luscious and, surprisingly, is famous for being home to the spotted deer. 

Kruje Castle and Old Town

When you finally arrive in Krujë , you’ll be blown away by this beautiful medieval town—home to one of the most colorful bazaars we’ve ever seen. Gorgeous ruby red textiles hang from the market stalls, and it’s lovely to walk around and buy souvenirs, antiques, and handmade carpets. The afternoon is the perfect amount of time to explore the old town and bazaar.

Read all about Krujë Castle and the Historic village .

Alternative Stop: Shkod er

Alternatively, you can spend the night at Shkoder, which is closer to Theth (the next stop on your Albania itinerary). This is a bigger city with beautiful old town pedestrian streets and loads of great food and drink options. Especially at the weekends, this city is vibrant and lively and an enjoyable place to hang out.

We recommend spending time in the Gjuhadol neighborhood, where you’ll find the nicest streets.  Find a hotel in Shkoder .

Tip: if you’re traveling in Albania by public transport, you’ll need to spend the night in Shkoder to take an arranged transfer to Theth the following day. If you have a car, we recommend skipping Shkoder and arriving at Theth directly from Kruje .

Where to Stay in Kruje

Stay as close as you can to the old town and bazaar, particularly as you’re only in Kruje for the afternoon/evening.  Here are all your hotel options in Kruje .

Hotels in Kruje 😴

How to get from Himarë to Kruje

Traveling by car from Himarë to Kruje is the easiest option and takes between 4-5 hours. 

There are no direct buses from Himarë to Kruje. Instead, you’ll need to take a bus to Vorë or back to Tirana and take the bus from these destinations. In total (including changing bus), both these journeys will take you approximately 5-6 hours.

Please note: If you want to travel on to Theth the next day, you’ll need to stay the night in Shkoder because that’s the only town where transfers leave for Theth (Albania’s answer to the Alps).

Day 11: Kruje to Theth

If you haven’t already explored Kruje’s Bazaar (one of the oldest markets in Albania), then spend the morning here taking in all the sights and senses of this beautiful area. (Just note that most shops opens at 10 AM) There is also a castle in Kruje to explore if you have time. 

After breakfast and a morning exploring Kruje, start on one of the most beautiful journeys of your Albanian road trip: the drive to Theth . Along the way, you’ll share the winding roads with goats, cows, and pigs and stop off at beautiful viewpoints with panoramic views of the mountains; you’re now arriving in Albania’s version of the Swiss Alps! 

Theth Village

Spend your afternoon in beautiful Theth village , a cute town which essentially consists of one long street bordering the river. It’s full of sweet houses, guesthouses, and great campsites (with good facilities). 

Read everything about the mountain village Theth in Albania .

People come to Theth to camp and hike, so it’s popular in summer with tourists. However, you’ll notice that authentic local life continues, with the farmers still herding their sheep and horses along the roads.

Witnessing this with the majestic mountain peaks in the background is truly like something from a movie. You’ll spend a few days here, enjoying the town, and hiking famous trails like the Peje Mountain Pass or the Valbona Peak. 

Tip: One of the most beautiful parts of Theth is the idyllic church you can find on the outskirts of town, surrounded by mountain peaks and meadows full of flowers. It’s an absolute must-visit and one of the best places to visit in Albania!

Where to Stay in Theth

Look for a hotel on the main street of Theth (not on the hill), so you can be closer to the center of the village for your afternoon stroll.  See all your hotel options .

Hotels in Theth 😴

How to get from Kruje to Theth

The journey from Kruje to Theth takes around 3.5 hours. Along the way, you can stop at Shkoder if you’d like a break; there are lots of beautiful things to see here, including Lake Shkoder, which forms a natural border between Albania and Montenegro.

As Theth is very remote, there are no buses from Kruje to Theth. You’ll need to get to Shkoder and arrange a transfer or organized tour from there to Theth. 

Day 12: Hike to Valbona Peak, Theth

Day 12 is your chance to explore the unbelievable nature that Albania has to offer. Pack a backpack and prepare to do the most beautiful hike from Theth to Valbona peak and back.

Along the way, you’ll pass through forests, gorgeous grasslands that look across onto the mountain peaks, bubbling brooks and streams, and meadows full of flowers and boulders. You could really feel as if you were in the Alps, with dramatic scenery all around and only birds, crickets, and butterflies to keep you company along the way. 

How long does the hike take? 

Start at 8 AM, and you should return to Theth around 3-4 PM. It takes around 7 hours to hike the trail (15 km in total), and it’s doable but definitely a challenge! Please be aware that on some parts of the trail, there are (very) steep gravel paths, so make sure you’re wearing proper hiking shoes. 

Tip: Traveling to Theth by public transport? You can catch a ferry or shared van back to Shkoder after your hike (the journey is approx 2 hours).

Day 13: Theth to Tirana

On your penultimate day in Albania, it’s time to head back to the buzzing capital: Tirana (a must-see on your 2-week Albania itinerary). Have breakfast and make an early start to drive back to Tirana so you can spend the afternoon in the city. 

Spend the Afternoon in Tirana

Once you’ve checked into your hotel, make the most of the city’s cultural hotspots, enjoying all the museums, art galleries, and interesting restaurants. You’ll find the National Museum of History here, which is a plot of former underground bunkers now turned into an exhibit on Albania’s communist history.

Entry Fee: 400 LEK (3.50 USD)

Aside from seeing the city’s museums, it’s lovely to just walk around for a few hours, witnessing the interesting architecture of Tirana —a reflection of its historical and cultural heritage.

You’ll find a mix of older and newer buildings, some in a more Mediterranean European style and some in an urban fascist style. Best of all, it’s earned a reputation for its colorful buildings due to the major being an artist and painting the buildings. These colored buildings are spread across the city, but two of the must-sees are:

• Ministry of Tourism and Environment
• Ministry of Agriculture

How to get from Theth to Tirana

The journey from Theth to Tirana takes 3.5 hours. You don’t need a 4×4 as the road to Theth is now paved and safe to drive on.

It’s possible to take a bus from Theth to Tirana. You’ll need to first take a shared shuttle bus to Shkoder (or taxi). From there, there are buses running every 30 minutes to Tirana. The journey takes 2 hours and costs 400 LEK (3.60 USD), so it’s very cheap.

Where to Stay in Tirana

The Blloku neighborhood is the most colorful and trendy of all and a great place to stay in Tirana. Alternatively, anywhere close to the city center is good. See all your hotel options in Tirana .

Hotels in Tirana 😴

Day 14: Drive to Tirana Airport (Departure)

Day 14 is the final day of your beautiful 2-week Albania itinerary, and time to pack your bags and leave with some incredible memories of this underrated country in Europe!

If you have a hire car, drive the 30 minutes to the airport and drop your rental car there before you fly. Alternatively, take the airport shuttle bus, which leaves the city center regularly (from Skanderbeg Square). A ticket costs 300 LEKE (2.70 USD) and can be purchased on the bus.

How to Visit Albania in 2 Weeks

Albania is one of the most unexpected treasures, home to everything from epic mountains and natural spring pools to beaches that would rival some of the best in Europe. This 2-week Albania itinerary provides you with various activities, hotel options, and transportation. 

Getting to Albania

The main airport in Albania is Tirana, and international flights arrive here from all around the world. Most of the public transport leaves from the capital city too, and you can collect your car hire there.

Getting Around on Your Albania 2-Week Itinerary

The easiest way to get around Albania is definitely by car. In the past, it had a reputation for bad roads. However, these days, most roads are safe and paved (especially when sticking to the highways). Even in the mountainous region of Theth, the roads are newly paved, so you can use a normal rental car. The only thing to be wary of on the roads is other drivers (Albanian drivers have a bit of a bad reputation, although we didn’t experience this ourselves). Use Waze or Google Maps as your navigation app.

Getting around by bus in Albania is a little trickier, as many destinations don’t have direct bus connections. Because of this, you may have to make multiple changes, and the journeys can be long. The upside, though, is that tickets are very cheap! 

Organized Tour

Alternatively, base yourself in bigger cities like Tirana and Saranda and use those as jumping-off points to explore other areas by organized tour.

Our Favorite Accommodations in Albania

There are many fantastic accommodations in Albania, from charming guesthouses and B&Bs to more luxury beachside hotels. There is even the option to camp! Below are our favorite places to stay for each destination on this 2-week Albania itinerary:

• Berat: Hotel Mangalemi , Tradita e Beratit Hotel
• Gjirokaster: SS Kekezi , Argjiro Traditional , Hotel Argjiro
• Ksamil: Ionian Hotel , Summer Point Hotel , Hotel Meta
• Himarë: Scala Bungalows , Filoxenia Holiday , Guest House Solive
• Kruje: Mervin Hotel , Hotel Panorama
• Shkoder: Çoçja Boutique Hotel , Atelier Boutique Hotel
• Theth: Guesthouse Marashi , Bujtina Miquesia Hotel , Gurra Family Guesthouse
• Tirana: Hotel Theatro , Hotel Boutique Vila , Crown Boutique Hotel

Food in Albania

Albania has a mix of history, cultures, and religions, all coming together in one big melting pot. This makes for some delicious cuisine, whether it’s traditional Albanian dishes, Italian, or Middle Eastern.

You can enjoy all sorts of delicacies, from stuffed peppers and eggplants to olives and baked local cheeses. If you’re brave enough, you can also try Raki, the traditional alcoholic beverage in Albania.

Fun Fact: In Albania, the head gesture for ‘yes’ and ‘no’ is the opposite of most countries (something you might need to know when you’re asked to try Raki!).

Albania Budget

Albania is super cheap; you can get a huge meal for 2 people (with salad and 2 main courses) for just 10 EUR (10.15 USD). You can also stay in incredible hotels for 50 EUR (51 USD) per night, although you can find good hotels for as little as 15 EUR (15.20 USD).

Costs of Traveling in Albania

Travel on a budget in Albania, from $80 − $130 USD weekly per person, mid-range $330 − $920 USD, and high-end from $920 − $1180 USD. However, costs depend on factors like accommodation, transportation, and activities. We did not include flights. Check flight prices here

• Hotels: $35 − $70 USD Check available hotels
• Hostels: $5 − $15 USD Check available hostels
• Car Rental: $50 − $75 USD Book a rental car
• Food: $3 − $8 USD
• Activities: $0 − $7 USD See tickets & tours
• Sim: $1 − $3 USD Get an eSIM or SIM here
• Travel Insurance: $2 − $6 USD Get Travel Insurance

Best Time to Visit Albania

Albania has very hot summers and mild winters (although you’ll find lots of snow in the mountainous regions). In the summer, locals and tourists head for the beach, and it can get very busy. Because of this, we recommend visiting in the shoulder seasons: May/June or September. This is the perfect time to enjoy warm weather, sunny days, and the beaches of the Albanian Riviera without the crowds. It also has slightly cooler temperatures, which are perfect for hiking in the mountains.  

Is Albania Safe?

There is some dispute about whether Albania is safe, and its communist history has slightly tarnished its reputation. However, in our personal experience, it’s very safe. The locals are warm, friendly people who are always eager to help, and the towns feel very safe and inviting. We walked around with our phones and cameras the entire time, zero issues! Albania truly has our hearts.

Travel Insurance Don't forget a travel insurance for your Albania trip! Heymondo covers medical emergencies, theft, delays, cancellations, lost luggage, and more, with 24/7 worldwide assistance and medical chat. As a Salt in our Hair reader, we've got you 5% off! Check Heymondo here

We’ve met a lot of solo (female) travelers who had the best time. Yes, they got some heads turning but never experienced anything negative. Obviously, take care of yourself and stay inside the main tourist areas. Here are our tips on how to travel safely .

What to wear in Albania?

Even though over 60% of Albania is Muslim, there are no specific guidelines on what to wear; You’ll see a huge mix of different clothing styles, and especially the younger Albanians dress in a very western style. When entering a religious site, always wear a cover-up. However, at most places they really allow everyone. One Albanian said to us that due to the country’s history, Albanians are now one big family, all living together no matter what their religion is. That’s how the world should be if you’d ask us!

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• Find Hotels via Booking.com
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Butrint National Park: The Complete Visitors Guide

Ksamil, albania: things to do in 2024, berat, albania: the city of a thousand windows.

Looking for more travel information? Plan a chat with us for personalised travel advice or get an answer from the Salt in our Hair Travel Community on Facebook.

If you had two extra days to spend, where would you choose to stay a bit longer? I’m travelling with a kid so want to take some extra days of rest in between.

Probably Theth or Gjirokaster! 🤗

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The Ginger Wanderlust

Albania Road Trip Itinerary Ultimate Guide (1-2 weeks)

I had never really thought about visiting Albania until I was planning a summer road trip in Europe . I wanted to visit a country that was budget friendly and off the usual tourist radar. After a bit of research I decided to discover Albania & Montenegro in the Balkans. I was curious about Albania’s history and wanted to see for my self if Albania was really ‘unsafe’ as some people claimed. I spent 12 days exploring Albania and was blown away by the cities, coastline and mountains. In this post I will share my Albania Road Trip Itinerary Guide which includes all the top places to visit.

1 – 2 week Albania Road Trip Itinerary – what to see

If you are hoping to visit the top sites in Albania you will need at least 7 days. My Albania road trip itinerary is for 9 days, but you could do it in 7 days by spending less time in each place. Read on to find out the top things to do in Albania.

Day 1 – Tirana

Start your Albania road trip in Tirana, the capital of Albania. It’s the perfect place to learn more about the history of Albania before exploring the rest of the country.

Top things to do in Tirana: – Walk around the city and admire the colourful Ottoman-, Fascist- and Soviet-era architecture. – Join a tour of Tirana to learn more about the history. – Visit the National History Museum . It’s 400 LEK (€3.26) and covers prehistoric times through to Communist rule and the anti-Communist uprisings of the 1990s. – Marvel at the colourful government buildings (notably the intstagrammable Ministry of Agriculture and the ones at Skanderbeg Square). – Spot the many decorated electric boxes (I saw a Pikachu, Salvador Dali and Angry Birds). – Visit the Pyramid of Tirana (Originally built to celebrate the life of ex-communist leader Enver Hoxha. It is currently abandoned. – Admire the art at Bunk Art2. An old bomb shelter that has been converted into a history museum and contemporary art gallery. – Join a cooking course and make a 3 course Albanian meal. – See the beautiful historical Et’hem Bey Mosque – Walk around the trendy area of Blloku, here you’ll find lots of cool cafes! – Go up the Sky Tower for a drink and beautiful views over the city. – Day trip to Lake Komani and Shala river

Where to stay in Tirana – We stayed at the Villa 27 Apartments . It was just €14 a night for a double room! They had free parking just outside and are within walking distance to the town centre.

Day 2 – Drive from Tirana to Ksamil with a stop in Gjirokaster

Your second day will be a long driving day whilst you road trip down 300km to Ksamil in the far south of Albania. The drive will take just under 5 hours, you can break it up by making a slight detour to the charming town of Gjirokaster.

Gjirokaster’s Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is a rare example of a well-preserved Ottoman town. The city is overlooked by Gjirokastër Fortress, the ruins of which you can visit and enjoy a nice view over the city and valley. The roads near the Old Town are steep and cobbled so I would avoid driving near here if you can (I saw one car sliding backwards down a hill!). Park just outside and walk in.

I would recommend leaving Tirana in the morning so you get to Gjirokaster by lunchtime. You’ll can stop to enjoy some local food before exploring the Old Town. I ate at the Taverna Kuka, which had a super cute terrace and tasty food! You can also join a walking tour for under €15.

You’ll then need to drive 1 hour 20 minutes to reach your final destination of Ksamil.

Where to stay in Ksamil – I stayed at the Vila Renato . They offer little studios with a kitchenette and private bathroom, within walking distance of the main beaches. Our room slept 4 and was just €30 a night during the summer holidays.

Day 3 – Ksamil

Ksamil (pronouned Kuh-sar-mil) is a beautiful coastal town on the Albanian Riviera . It’s one of the cheapest beach holiday locations so is very popular with backpackers. It has beautiful crystal clear waters as well as 4 rocky Islands to explore, making a super instagrammable photo spot . If you are a strong swimmer you can swim to the closest two islands at low tide. Otherwise you can hire kayaks or pedalos.

Ksamil can get very busy in the summer holidays, so I would recommend going off season in June or September to avoid the crowds. If you are unable to avoid visiting during the summer holidays I would recommend booking a sun lounger the day before. There is hardly any ‘free space’ on the beaches in Ksamil and the sun loungers sell out very quickly. You can also escape the crowds by visiting the beautiful nearby Pulëbardha Beach.

Enjoy your time chilling out on the beach in Ksamil, as well as trying out the many rooftop (sea view) bars and restaurants.

Day 4 – Ksamil, Butrint National Park and continuing your Albanian Riviera road trip

If you are staying in Ksamil for a few nights then make sure to check out Butrint National Park, just a 20 minute drive south of Ksamil and one of the most important archaeological sites in Albania. Butrint National Park contains different artefacts and structures, dating from the Iron Age up until the Middle Ages. Numerous monuments are still extant including the city walls, a late-antique baptistery, a great basilica, roman theatre and two castles. The entrance fee is 700 LEK (around €6) and there is a free parking there if you drive, otherwise you can get the local bus from Ksamil.

After visiting Butrint National Park you can continue your Albanian Riviera road trip . Head north 30 minutes to the seaside town of Sarande where you can stop for lunch and to enjoy the beach a bit.

Next, follow the coastal road just over an hour north to Himare, another beautiful town on the Albanian Riviera. If you are backpacking on a budget you might want to consider staying in Himare, it is considerably cheaper than the nearby town of Dhermi, and the beach is mostly open space (no parasols to rent taking up all the place). If you’re in Himare make sure to grab some pizza at Pizzeria La Famiglia for the best view over Himare beach.

Where to stay – We decided to treat ourselves and stay at the luxurious Vila Kristi in Dhermi. We had a really nice clean and modern room with breakfast included for €80 a night. If you’re on a tighter budget you should look for accommodation in nearby Himare.

Day 5 – Dhermi, Himare and Gjipe Beach

Spend the day exploring more of Albania’s beautiful beaches including my favourite, Gjipe Beach.

Gjipe Beach is not accessible by car so it is one of the least busiest beaches in Albania. Even during the summer holidays there weren’t too many people here! You can either park near the top and walk down a beautiful panoramic path for 30 minutes like in the picture below (but it’s very steep) or you can drive to the parking at the bottom of the road and walk for 25 minutes along a less steep road (but it’s not as scenic).

I would also recommend checking out both Palasa Beach and Dhermi Beach in Dhermi. Picture beachside bars, colourful parasols and epic mountain landscapes!

Day 6 – Drive from Dhermi to Shkoder via Kruje

Today will be another long driving day whilst you road trip 4.5 hours to Shkoder in the north of Albania. You can break up the drive by stopping at the Medieval town of Kruje. The bazaar selling lots of brightly coloured souvenirs makes for a great instagram photo opportunity.

If you have more time, you might want to consider a detour to Berat, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with very unique architecture. You could even sign up for a cooking class there!

Once you arrive in Shkoder, be sure to head to Rruga Kolë Idromeno (a super cute street) and grab some food at the Rooftop Bar Restorant Piceri Chicago. Here you can enjoy a very reasonably priced pizza with a beautiful view, perfect for people watching!

If you want to go to Theth the following day you will need to book it today (we booked the jeep via our hotel).

Where to stay in Shkoder – We stayed at the Hotel Kurtabeg , it was super cheap at only €17 a night for a double room with a private bathroom, but the rooms were very old and basic.

Day 7 – Theth

One of the highlights of my Albania road trip itinerary was my time in the beautiful mountain village of Theth in the Albanian Alps.

How to get to Theth

The road into the valley is thin and broken so you will need a 4 x 4 to drive here. Most people opt to book a €10 per person jeep there and leave their cars in Shkoder (we left ours at our hotel). These jeeps tend to leave Shkoder around 7:30am arriving in Theth around 10:30-11am. They will pick you up from your hotel and drop you off at your Guesthouse in Theth.

Alternatively you can book onto a group tour which will organise all of the transport for you. Or book a day trip if you’re low on time.

Where to eat in Theth

Theth is very rural so make sure to bring a packed lunch with you, as there aren’t many restaurants (or shops) around. You can book to have dinner and breakfast at your guesthouses.

Most popular hike

Today will be your longest day in Theth so I would recommend heading off for a hike as soon as you can. The most popular hike to do in Theth is to the Blue Eye . It takes about 6-7 hour to hike there and back (or you can walk there and hire a jeep back). The hike will take you past sound beautiful waterfalls and scenery, find out exactly how to get to the Blue Eye .

Theth Church

Try to get back to Theth for sunset so you can enjoy the beautiful light on the mountains at Theth Church (the cutest church ever!). Find out the best photo spots of the church in my Ultimate Guide to Theth .

Where to stay in Theth – Theth has a number of charming guesthouses which are all around €40-50 a night. We stayed at the  Marashi Guesthouse  as it is located right near Theth church (which I wanted to photograph at sunrise and sunset), had good reviews and was also one of the cheaper guesthouses.

Day 8 – Theth

Today you can either decide to go hiking, then back to Shkoder with the jeeps that leave at 11am. Or you can hike from Theth to Valbona . If you do the latter make sure to not bring too much luggage with you as you will be carrying it!

The hike from Theth is to Valbona takes around 8-9 hours (one way) and you will stay for one night in Theth and one night in Valbona (at least), you can then get a boat along the Komani Lake and back to Shkoder. You will need at least 3 full days to complete this loop from Shkoder.

If you go back to Shkoder from Theth you should arrive back around 2pm. Be sure to check out Rozafa Castle, an incredible ancient fortress that has really stood the test of time.

If you wish to visit Komani Lake and Lumi i Shales the following day you should book it today through your hotel.

Day 9 – Komani Lake and Lumi i Shales

Lake Koman (or Komani Lake) is a reservoir in northern Albania. It is located in a narrow valley surrounded by dense forested hills on vertical slopes. Sailing down the Komani Lake makes you feel like you’re in the Lord of the Rings, it really is a unique landscapes and worth a visit!

A minibus picked us up from our hotel around 8am and dropped us off at the Komani lake (€5 one way), they then helped us to get onto a boat (€5 each way). This boat took us on the most magical ride along the lake towards Lumi i Shales .

You can also visit Komani lake as part of your 3 day itinerary to Theth and Valbona . Or a day trip from Tirana .

As we were there during a very dry summer the water levels were very low, which meant the boat wasn’t able to take us the whole way to Lumi i Shales. So we were dropped off and then walked up the river for about 45 minutes. At the time we had no idea where we were going or what was going on, but it was definitely worth it! Lumi i shales (or Shala River) is located in a lush green valley, with crystal blue water, it is absolutely breath taking! There are 2 basic restaurants there offering BBQ food, just be sure to bring cash.

You will then need to walk back to the boat (keep an eye on when your boat-mates are leaving) and from there you’ll be able to get the minibus back to Shkoder.

For more information getting here check out my blog post on how to get to Lumi i Shales .

I hope you enjoy this Albania road trip itinerary. My guide will allow you to discover all the must see sites in Albania. After Albania you might consider continuing your road trip in Montenegro .

Albania Road Trip Itinerary FAQ

Driving in albania, what are the road conditions like.

I was very impressed with the condition of the roads in Albania. The main roads are all paved and a pleasure to drive on. You’ll only need a 4×4 if you decided to visit more rural parts of the country, like the road to Theth (you can also pay to take a taxi jeep there). My Albania road trip itinerary only includes covered roads that are in good condition.

Driving safety in Albania

The roads in Albania are in a good condition, the main safety issue of driving in Albania is with the local drivers, who can be a bit crazy. In general I had no problem driving in Albania, there was just the odd moment when cars would overtake me incredibly fast (once when a car was coming in the other direction). As long as you stay alert whilst driving you will be fine.

Crossing the border from Albania to Montenegro

We hired our car in Montenegro and after spending a few days exploring the bay of Kotor we crossed the border by car into Albania.

There are two places where you can cross the border from Albania into Montenegro: – Border Crossing Hani i Hotit – Bozhaj (north of Lake Skadar) – Border Crossing Muriqan – Sukobin (south of Lake Skadar)

The border can get quite busy, so be prepared to wait (sometimes 1-2 hours). I recommend going early if you can to avoid the main bulk of cars.

If you want to drive across the border, you need to inform your car rental company in advance, as well as purchase a Green Card when you pick up the car. A Green Card is an international certificate, that shows you are covered by insurance. The price of a Green Card for one car is €42.35 (including VAT).

In order to avoid this cost and hassle you can also take a bus from Albania to Montenegro .

How much to budget for Albania

Albania’s currency.

Albania is not currently in the EU however it is a “potential candidate country” and hopes to join soon. For this reason the euro (€) is widely accepted, even if the Lek (plural lekë) is Albania’s official currency. 100 Albanian Lek equals 0.81 Euro.

ATM’s are widely available in Albania, however we sometimes struggled to find ATMs that accepted Mastercards (they were Visa only).

Daily Costs

Albania is one of the cheapest countries to visit in Europe. You can enjoy a road trip around Albania from just €20 a day per person. It’s a great destination for budget backpackers.

• Dorm bed: €5–15 a night
• Double room: starting from €15 a night
• Meal in a restaurant: €1–6 per person (we had a number of good pizza’s for just €5)
• Car rental: starting from around €15 a day
• Petrol: €1 – €1.40 / L
• ESIM around €8-15

My 12 day Albania road trip itinerary cost around €500 per person.

Is Albania safe to visit?

Due to it’s history of communism and war, Albania does not have the best reputation. However, most western governments advise that crime and violence against foreigners is extremely rare. I personally found Albania to be very safe to travel around with the locals being very friendly and welcoming.

Best time to visit Albania

The best time to visit Albania is during the warmer weather from April to October. Peak season is during the summer holidays in July and August, the temperatures get quite high so you’ll find a lot of people by the Albanian Riviera . If you wish to enjoy the sunshine without the crowds I would aim for June or September.

I hope you have a wonderful time exploring Albania. It is definitely one of the most underrated countries in Europe, and well worth a visit! You might want to check out the 21 most instagrammable photo spots in Albania to help plan your trip some more.

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19 comments.

madhuonthego

Albania is definitely a lovely place with such a rich culture and colours..loved your post ,it’s so informative .hope to visit one day

Whaooo that looks so beautiful ! I never though about Albania as a holiday destination. I am saving this for later!

It really took my breath away! Especially all the amazing beaches!

Suvarna Arora

I was already impressed by the pictures of Albania from your IG but this guide definitely insisted me on putting it at the top. I will be referring to it in future when I can travel.

I’ve only been to Tirana so far but I would love to go back to Albania and discover the rest of the country! Such an amazing itinerary, thank you for sharing!

limitlesssecrets

I am so surprised to discover the beauty of Albania through your lens! And it’s great to know that this country is very cheap, makes it even more interesting to visit! Thanks for all the tips!

Yes it’s the perfect country to visit on a budget! You could easily do it cheaper than me too, we went in the summer holidays and didn’t always go for the cheapest hotels

thebornwanderess

Albania is such a pleasant surprise. I can’t wait to get back, maybe when it’s a bit warmer next time

lostwithjen

I’ve never been here but I would love to do this as a road trip! Theth looks so beautiful and as always your photos are stunning! Thanks for sharing ?

OMG Love you photos girl! Thanks for helping me realise how beautiful Albania is! Adding it to my bucket list.

Urban Wanders

I had no idea Albania was so beautiful! I’m especially impressed with its beaches! Thanks for shining light on less traveled destinations 🙂

I have wanted to go to Albania for ages, thanks for the informative post!

Drive from Tirana to Ksamil looks stunning. Albania looks amazing!

What beautiful photographs. Albania was never on my list until now. Thanks for the great post ?

Antonia Hiesgen

Wow! Albania has been on my list for so long! It’s still kind of a hidden gem, so hoping to be able to travel there soon!

Wow, your photos are amazing! May I ask what camera & lenses you used here?

Aw thank you! They were taken on my Canon 5d mark iii and a couple on my iphone 🙂 I share all my photography tips in my ebook on How to Take Better Photos for IG if you want to learn more about photography 🙂 https://thegingerwanderlust.com/product/how-to-take-better-photos-for-instagram/

Absolutely love this post Ellie! I am dying to visit Albania and would really love to do a road trip across eastern Europe! These tips are super helpful!

Sooo many places to see in Eastern Europe!! I really want to go back!

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The Ultimate Travel Guide to the Albanian Riviera

Last Updated on March 1, 2024 by Natalia

The Albanian Riviera is an amazing travel destination, home to gorgeous beaches, coastal towns, UNESCO World Heritage Sites and more! Situated in southern Albania , the riviera stretches from Dhermi to Sarande and is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in Europe. The beaches of the Albanian Riviera make it an enticing destination, especially considering they’re substantially less crowded than other European hotspots. We spent 3 weeks discovering several amazing places to visit along the riviera, including Sarande, Himare , Gjirokaster, the Blue Eye, and of course many beautiful beaches. Find out the best places to visit, where to stay and much more with this travel guide to the Albanian Riviera.

Table of Contents

How to get to the Albanian Riviera

The easiest way to get to the Albanian Riviera is to fly into the Greek island of Corfu and take the ferry over to Sarande/Saranda, Albania. During peak season there are normally over 10 boats a day running to Sarande, so you don’t have to stay overnight on Corfu itself if you don’t want to.

Prices during peak season start from €19 one-way on the slower ferry boat or from €24 one-way on the quicker boats. The slower ferries take around 70 minutes to get from Corfu to Sarande whereas the quicker boats make the journey in just 40 minutes.

Click here to find out more and book your ferry from Corfu to Sarande!

If you decide to make your way from Corfu to Sarande then be aware that the Greek Island is one hour ahead of Albania, so make your plans accordingly.

Unfortunately the Albanian Riviera has no international airport so the other main way to get to there is to fly into the capital Tirana and travel down the coast from there. Construction is due to start shortly for an international airport in Vlore and if plans go ahead is due to open in March 2025.

Getting from Tirana down to the Albanian Riviera is easy by renting a car from the airport and driving yourself which takes around 3 hours to reach the start of this beautiful area in Dhermi.

Click here to book your car rental in the Albanian Riviera with Tripadvisor.com!

It’s also possible to get here via a bus, which means heading into Tirana’s bus terminal where buses generally go every 2 hours to Sarande and take around 5/6 hours for 1300 Lek.

Only a few airlines fly into Tirana airport, which means generally flying into Corfu is a better option. If you want to explore more of Albania though you may want to fly into Tirana before making your way down to the riviera.

Make sure to check out our guide to the best places to visit in Tirana if you plan on visiting Albania’s capital city!

Getting around the Albanian Riviera

To discover the full beauty of the Albanian Riviera it’s best to rent a car. Renting a car allows you to travel around more freely and visit places that aren’t as easily accessible by public transport.

Driving in Albania is perfectly safe and the roads are in good condition, so it’s easy enough to get around.

Public transport in the Albanian Riviera isn’t always the most reliable as buses don’t stick to a strict timetable. This means taking day trips to beaches and towns can be an issue if you don’t rent a car.

It ends up being a lot easier to get around if you rent a car, which is why we recommend renting one for the entirety of your trip. Thankfully, renting a car is relatively inexpensive in Albania, so it won’t end up costing too much either!

Click here to find the best car rental deals for your trip!

Best time to visit the Albanian Riviera

Summer is the best time to visit the Albanian Riviera, as the glorious sunshine and weather gives you the chance to make the most of the beautiful beaches. The weather is best during July and August as temperatures can exceed 30 degrees Celsius.

Unsurprisingly, with good weather comes crowds of tourists. The Albanian Riviera is increasingly popular with tourists, and so July and August is very much peak season in the area.

During peak season the beaches are at their busiest and accommodation prices are at their highest, but thankfully are still reasonable compared to other European destinations.

If you visit during the shoulder season months of June and September then the weather should still be good but the beaches won’t be as busy. Saying that, you can still get an influx of tourists at beaches during these months too, but it shouldn’t be as busy as July or August.

It’s best to avoid visiting the Albanian Riviera from October to March as the weather it isn’t as warm during the autumn and winter months. The area is a lot quieter during these months, but you can’t appreciate the beaches properly without good weather, and sunny days aren’t that likely.

April and May can be good times to visit as temperatures can reach up to around 25 degrees Celsius if you’re lucky. This makes it a good time to visit if you want to avoid crowds as well as the warmest months of the year!

Crowds generally tend to congregate in popular destinations such as Ksamil, Sarande , and Dhermi . If you’re planning to explore outside of these spots then it means there’s likely to be fewer tourists around!

Best places to visit in the Albanian Riviera

The town of Sarande, also known as Saranda, is the main city in the Albanian Riviera. It’s a great base for exploring the area, and is also home to a number of public and private beaches.

One of the easiest ways to get to the Albanian Riviera is to travel from the nearby Greek Island of Corfu. If you’re coming from Corfu then Sarande is a perfect starting point for exploring the riviera.

The town’s location means it’s well placed near some of the best things to do in the Albanian Riviera. Find out more about what the town has to offer with our guide to the best beaches in Sarande!

 Ksamil

Situated approximately a 30-minute drive from Sarande, the small village of Ksamil is home to some of the best beaches in the Albanian Riviera and Albania as a whole which makes it a must visit on any itinerary in the area. There are several beaches in the village, but the pick of the bunch is Spiaggia Di Ksamil – a wonderful sandy beach with dazzling blue water.

As one of the country’s most beautiful beaches it can get quite busy. Thankfully there are a number of other beaches in Ksamil which tend to be less busy, the only downside is that they’re pebbly beaches.

There are also some other quieter beaches on the stretch of coast between Sarande and Ksamil. For example, Monastery Beach is a lovely spot to visit if you have your own car.

If you don’t have a car then it’s easy enough to get from Sarande to Ksamil by bus, which costs just 100 Lek. However you decide to get there though, don’t miss the chance to visit the amazing Spiaggia Di Ksamil beach!

The ‘Blue Eye’ is an incredible natural phenomenon in the form of a stunning blue water spring and a must visit when in the Albanian Riviera. With a pool in excess of 50 metres deep, it resembles an eye thanks to the deep blue water in the centre of the spring and the lovely turquoise water that surrounds it.

Swimming isn’t allowed in the eye itself, so it’s cordoned off to protect the wonderful nature. Many people ignore this though by going for a swim or jumping into the ‘Blue Eye’ from a viewing platform.

Fortunately you are allowed to go in to the more shallow bits of water, but swimming in the eye itself is off limits. The water is icy cold which is great hot summer days – just prepare yourself before going in!

Located around a 30-minute drive from Sarande, the Blue Eye is easy to get to if you’ve rented a car. It’s possible to park by the entrance, which is extremely convenient.

If you aren’t renting a car then take the inexpensive bus from Sarande to Gjirokaster and ask the drive to stop at the Blue Eye. Unfortunately the bus route doesn’t go directly past the entrance, so once you get off it’s around a 2-3 kilometre walk to the eye itself.

As of 2024 entrance to the Blue Eye costs just 50 Lek and 100 Lek for parking, which makes it great value even if you don’t visit for long!

Gjipe Beach

The stunning Gjipe Beach and is a must do for our travel guide to the Albanian Riviera. Located in the middle of Gjipe Canyon, it’s certainly one of the country’s most picturesque beaches thanks to the beautiful nature surrounding it.

It’s a pebbly beach, but the wonderfully blue, crystal clear water makes it an amazing spot to visit regardless.

Gjipe Beach used to be one of the best kept secrets in Europe, but has become more busy in recent years as more people take holidays in the Albanian Riviera. Nowadays the beach can get quite busy, but if you get there early hopefully you can avoid the crowds!

The beach is located around a 30-40 minute drive from the town of Himare. There is a car parking fee of 250 Lek, and it’s around a half-hour walk from the car park to Gjipe Beach itself.

If you haven’t rented a car then you can either take a bus or speedboat from Himare to Gjipe Beach.

Butrint National Park

The Albanian Riviera may be best known for its beaches, but it’s also home to some fascinating history most notably at Butrint National Park. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site that’s home to some incredible ancient ruins, as well as wetlands, freshwater lakes, marshes, open plains, islands and more!

Butrint is the largest archaeological park in Albania, with ruins from various civilisations including the Greeks, Romans and Byzantines. To learn more about the site’s history make sure to visit the Venetian Castle that is now home to an interesting museum.

There’s so much history to enjoy within the national park that you can easily spend half a day, or even a full day, exploring what it has to offer!

Butrint National Park is conveniently located around a 30-minute drive from Sarande, which is perfect if you decide to rent a car. Alternatively, you can take the bus there which should take around half an hour.

Buses drop you off directly by the entrance to the park, and to catch a bus back just return to the same spot. Although there are no official bus timetables in Albania, the buses run once an hour in each direction.

Entrance to Butrint National Park costs 1000 Lek as of 2024.

Himare is our favourite town in the Albanian Riveira, so we definitely recommend spending a few days enjoying what it has to offer. If destinations like Dhermi and Sarande are too busy for you, then Himare is the perfect place as it’s one of the quieter towns along the coast.

The beaches in and around Himare are amazing and blessed with dazzling blue sea that will make you want to dive straight in! There are 3 lovely beaches in the town itself – Spile Beach, Prinos Beach and Potami Beach – as well as several other beautiful beaches nearby, including Gjipe Beach, Livadhi Beach, Gjiri i Filikurit Beach and Jala Beach.

With lots of great beaches to choose from, Himare is a great base from which to explore the Albanian Riviera. To top if off, there are some wonderful restaurants in the area serving good quality food at reasonable prices!

Find out more about this lovely little town with our guide to the best things to do in Himare!

Gjirokaster

The Old Town of Gjirokaster, itself a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the best places to visit in the Albanian Riviera. This brilliantly preserved Ottoman Old Town makes for a refreshing change from the area’s beautiful beaches, and so it’s an ideal destination for any history lovers.

Situated in a valley between the Gjere mountains and the Drino river, the city is surrounded by beautiful nature. A visit to the well-preserved Gjirokaster Castle gives you the chance to enjoy lovely views of the Old Town, as well as the surrounding mountains.

Aside from visit the castle, the main thing to do in Gjirokaster is to wander through the cobblestone streets and admire the unique Ottoman architecture of the Old Town.

Buses run every hour from Sarande to Gjirokaster, and take around 1-1½ hours to get between the two. A bus should cost around 400 Lek, and will drop you a relatively steep 30-minute walk from the Old Town, but thankfully taxis are available if you’d prefer.

Albanian Riviera Tours

Blue eye and lekuresi castle tour.

This wonderful guided tour takes you to explore the natural wonder of the Blue Eye, as well as the ancient Lekuresi Castle in South Albania. The tour includes all entry fees and departs in the morning from Sarande.

At the Blue Eye, you’ll be amazed by the sparkling blue and crystal clear water, as well as the beautiful surrounding greenery. From Lekuresi Castle you will enjoy stunning panoramic views of Sarande, Butrint Lagoon, and the nearby Greek island of Corfu.

Tours depart from Sarande and cost just €59 per person, with a minimum of 2 people required for the trip to run. 

Click here to book an incredible tour to the Blue Eye and Lekuresi Castle on the Get Your Guide website!

Private Albanian Riviera Tour

Explore the stunning Albanian Riviera with a private guided tour that takes you to some of the region’s most beautiful spots. Over the course of around 10 hours you will visit a variety of amazing spots including Himare, Dhermi, Borsh, Qeparo, and Vuno.

Being a private tour the itinerary can often be altered slightly if there are some other spots on this list that you would prefer to visit too! These amazing tours of the Albanian Riviera start from around €64 per person, with a minimum of 3 people required for the trip to run.

Click here to book this amazing tour on the Viator website!

Where to stay in the Albanian Riviera

Blue water villa.

The Blue Water Villa in Ksamil is a wonderful option if you want to stay near the centre and close to the nicest beaches in the Albanian Riviera. Just a short walk from Ksamil’s beaches, the hotel offers modern air-conditioned rooms and free private parking on site.

Staff are kind and helpful too, so will strive to make your stay as good as it can be! Prices start from just 10,300 Lek  per night.

Click here to see the brilliant Blue Water Villa on Booking.com!

Vila Kosteli

If you’re looking for where to stay in the Albanian Riviera then Vila Kosteli is perfect. Ideally located by the Himare beachfront, it’s a lovely place to spend a few days.

All rooms at the hotel have air conditioning as well as a balcony, some of these rooms you will be able to enjoy sea views from the comfort of your room.

Prices at the hotel start from 12,000 Lek  per night.

Click here to book a stay at the lovely Vila Kosteli on Booking.com!

Elysium Hotel

The stunning Elysium Hotel is one of the best luxury hotels in the Albanian Riviera. First things first, the hotel has a huge swimming pool for you to cool off in during the hot summer days.

On top of that, the rooms are modern and luxurious, making the hotel a great place to relax. There’s free parking on site and the service is incredible too, so you’re bound to have an amazing stay!

Situated in Dhermi, the hotel is well situated for exploring the Albanian Riviera. Prices at the hotel start from 16,170 Lek  per night.

Click here to take a look at the amazing Elysium Hotel on Booking.com!

Buze Boutique Hotel

Sarande is one of the best places to stay in the Albanian Riviera, and one of the best hotels in the area is the brilliant Buze Boutique Hotel. With a lovely outdoor swimming pool and a private beach, the hotel has everything you need for an amazing stay.

There’s free private parking available at the hotel, which is perfect if you’re renting a car to explore. Prices start from 22,550 Lek  per night, with breakfast included in the price.

Click here to take a look at the Buze Boutique Hotel on Booking.com!

Alternatively, VRBO have some fantastic accommodation options if you want to rent a property instead of staying at a hotel during your time in the Albanian Riviera! Click here to see the amazing options on the VRBO website!

Looking for other places to travel in Eastern Europe? Check out our one week Montenegro itinerary.

Please note that some links in this article are affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase we make a small commission at no extra cost to you. This money is used to support this website and cover the costs of keeping it online and free to access!

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The Perfect Albania Road Trip: This Place Is Epic! (UPDATED 2024)

• Last Updated: March 13, 2024
• Albania , Destinations , Europe

In this post, I’ll help you plan the perfect Albania road trip.

Table of Contents

I’ve been to Albania several times and know most parts of the country pretty well. Last year I lived there for almost 2 months. It’s one of my absolute favourite countries with much to offer.

In this little corner of Southeast Europe, you’ll find extremely varied scenery, mountains, forests, stunning beaches on the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, crystal clear waters, friendly people, and beautiful architecture.

Albania was a closed country for much of the twentieth century, under a strict and insular communist regime.  But that’s now very much a thing of the past.  

Today, Albania is a fast-changing, modern democracy with a huge amount to see and do.  

The potential for tourism here is immense, easily equal to some of its better-known neighbours (Montenegro, Greece, etc.).  

But whilst Albania is slowly creeping onto some people’s travel radars, for most it still remains a mystery.  That makes it a fantastic place to explore now! 

** If you need a visa to visit Albania, I recommend using iVisa.com .  Their online visa processing service is quick, secure, and easy to use. **

See also:  Basic words and phrases in Albanian

Best Places To Visit In Albania

With so many fantastic places to see and visit, it can be hard to choose where to go in Albania.

Here are a few of my favourite places to visit in Albania. This list gives you a roughly circular route, so you can start and finish anywhere along it, depending on where you’re coming from.

Most flights to Albania go to Tirana, the capital and most populated city in the country.  So you will probably be starting your Albania roadtrip here. 

Even if you aren’t, it’s a cool place and I’d recommend including it on your Albania itinerary. 

There is enough to see and do in this quirky, fun city to spend at least a day or two here.  There’s also delicious food to be found all over the city.

A great way to get a feel for the city is to go on a   walking tour .  These are organised by local people who are passionate about their city, its history, interesting architecture, and unique culture.  

Walking tours usually depart from the steps of the Opera House on Skenderbej Square, in the city centre.

One of the city’s most unusual, and interesting, sights is  Bunk’Art 2 .  This communist-era nuclear bunker was built by Albania’s paranoid former dictator Enver Hoxha in the 1980s. 

Today, it’s a museum dedicated to the country’s history.  Well worth a visit.

My other top recommendations would include a visit to the Natural History Museum of Albania ,  Gallery 43 (an excellent art gallery), and the beautiful Et’hem Bey Mosque . 

The Tirana Sky Tower’s top-floor bar  offers a panoramic view of the city.  It’s a perfect place for a drink at sunset, after a long day of sightseeing.

Check out my post on the best restaurants in Tirana .

An easy 2.5-hour drive southwest of Tirana is Vlorë, on the Adriatic Sea.  The road from Tirana to the coast is in excellent condition and you shouldn’t have any trouble navigating this first stretch.

Vlorë is a coastal resort town, and a gateway to southern Albania, with many hotels and a good selection of restaurants.  The town itself is not particularly beautiful, but it has decent amenities and a laid-back seaside vibe.

There is a beach at Vlorë, but it’s nothing on the beaches you’ll be visiting later on.  So don’t worry about spending too much time here.

3. The Llogara Pass

South of Vlorë, the journey starts to get really beautiful.  In fact, the coastal drive between Vlorë and Sarandë is easily one of my favourite roads in the world.  

The main coastal highway takes you through some truly spectacular scenery.  Think Amalfi Coast, but without the other tourists (and a fraction of the cost).

As you approach Llogara National Park, on the slopes of the Ceraunian Mountains, the road starts to ascend fairly steeply. 

There are many hairpins and switch-backs, as you snake your way ever higher.  

Try hard to keep your eyes on the road, though I guarantee this will be difficult.  The scenery is really stunning.

Finally, you will reach the Llogara Pass , the highest point.  Stop at the beautiful viewpoints and enjoy the breathtaking views. 

The azure sea sparkles in the sunlight as you gaze south over the Albanian Riviera, while Çika Mountain towers over you.

If you’re into hiking , there are several excellent trails in Llogara National Park, including a challenging 14-kilometre hike to the summit of Mount Çika and back.  

This is one of the best ways to enjoy the stunning landscapes and dramatic scenery.

I love this place and I’m sure you will too.

4. The Albanian Riviera

Albania has some of the  best beaches in Europe  (fact), and most of them are on the Albanian Riviera. 

This mountainous stretch of the Ionian Sea coast runs between Sarandë and Vlorë, and the drive is epic.

Here are some of the best spots on the Riviera to include in your Albania itinerary.

Shortly after you descend from the Llogara Pass, you will come to Dhërmi.

This picturesque little coastal town is a great place to stop, either for lunch or overnight.  Just beware, it can get quite crowded in the peak summer months.

In Dhërmi you’ll find a range of options for food and accommodation, and it’s a stone’s throw from some amazing beaches.  

The town itself enjoys a beautiful setting, with crystal clear blue waters and a backdrop of craggy mountains.

See here for my pick of the best hotels in Dhërmi.

Drymades Beach

If Dhërmi beach is a little too crowded, Drymades beach is another good option and is only a 5-minute drive away.

However, at the time of writing, a big construction project had just started there.  I imagine that soon this area will be covered with luxury hotels. Visit now before it becomes too spoilt.

Gjipe Beach

If you prefer your beaches more secluded, definitely check out  Gjipe Beach .  This idyllic stretch of sand is a definite contender for the best beach in Albania.

The car park for Gjipe Beach is a 15-minute drive south of Dhërmi.  This beach doesn’t have direct road access, and you’ll need to walk 1.5 km along a gravel track from the car park.

It’s definitely worth the walk.  The little cove you’ll reach is beyond beautiful.  Outside of the summer months, you can often have the entire place to yourself.

If you have camping gear , this is an awesome place to spend the night.

Once little more than a sleepy fishing village,  Himarë  is now a well-known (and much loved) beach town.  It’s also gaining a reputation as one of Albania’s best backpacker destinations.

In general, it’s quite a bit cheaper here than nearby Dhërmi.  

There are a number of budget-friendly hostels and cheap guest houses in Himarë.  And you won’t struggle to find cheap but excellent bars and restaurants.  

The whole place strikes the perfect balance between being well geared up for tourism, but at the same time not feeling overly commercialised.

There are two main parts to  Himarë .  The modern town centre is located on the seafront and has one main street and a little harbour.  

Then there’s the area around the historical castle ruins (called Himarë Fshat), which is perched at the top of a hill overlooking the bay. This second area is a real hidden gem.  

I rented  this place  (Maria Apartments) up there for a month and loved it so much.  It’s incredibly peaceful, and you have an amazing view of both Himarë and Livadhi beaches.

Himarë is a very cool place and deserves to be on your Albania itinerary.  I’d recommend spending at least a day or two here.

Borsh Beach

Another great beach on the southern Albanian Riviera,  Borsh Beach is an easy 30-minute drive south of Himarë.

Borsh is one of the longest beaches in Albania, stretching for several kilometres.  It’s also one of the most beautiful.  The area has also not been overly developed, adding to the charm.

Here the sea is almost impossibly clear and turquoise.  It’s perfect for swimming and snorkelling.  You can also hire kayaks or sailing dinghies from the vendors near the car park.

This is another fantastic place to camp on the beach.  Alternatively, there are many affordable hotels. 

You can feast on fresh seafood in one of the many beachfront restaurants, or head to one of the more secluded sections and barbecue for yourself.

About an hour south of Borsh Beach, you will arrive at Sarandë.

This medium-sized town is much busier and more developed than the idyllic little towns and villages that surround it.  

Sarandë might not be as quiet or peaceful as the smaller towns along the Albanian Riviera. 

But, it does have a large range of accommodation options, from budget to high-end hotels, several excellent restaurants, and a variety of bars and other nightlife.

This is a personal choice, but I prefer to stay in smaller, quieter places.  If you’re like me, instead of Sarandë, I’d suggest spending the night in Ksamil, 14 km further south.

Ksamil is a beautiful little village in the far south of Albania.  It’s located in a sheltered bay, with white sands, crystal clear waters and a few islands offshore.  

Ksamil is a popular spot, due to its proximity to Sarandë, and its stunning setting.

This is another place with a fledgling backpacker scene, so you won’t struggle to find decent budget accommodation and places to eat and drink. 

There are loads of beach bars and restaurants with terraces that are great places to sit and unwind.

There are several nice beaches in the bays around Ksamil, where the water is clear and great for snorkelling.  This is one of the best ones.

You can even swim to some of the little islands in the main bay.

Check out this post on the 10 best hotels in Ksamil .

7. Butrint National Park

A short drive (or 5 km walk) from the centre of Ksamil is the ruined city of  Butrint .  This fascinating site has been occupied for thousands of years.

Today you can see the remains left by the ancient Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Venetians.  It’s well worth a visit if you have the time.

The ruins are located inside the larger Butrint National Park. 

This peaceful and picturesque place surrounds a large lagoon and consists of several freshwater lakes , salt marshes, islands, and reed beds.  

It’s an important habitat for over 1,200 different species of plants and animals.

8. Blue Eye

20 kilometres inland from Sarandë is the famous  Blue Eye  ( Syri i Kaltër , in Albanian).

It’s a natural spring where fresh water emerges from the ground into a deep pool, which then flows out into a larger pool that drains into a little river.  

The water is extremely clear, and from above looks like an eye, with a dark centre and a lighter-coloured ring around the edge.  

It’s really beautiful and is surrounded by tranquil forests of pine, walnut, hazelnut, and cherry trees.

Nobody knows quite how deep the pool is.  Divers have descended to fifty metres, but haven’t been able to go any further down inside.

The water stays at a constant 10 degrees Celsius, and there are signs saying not to swim in the pool, though many people still choose to take a dip in the water surrounding the Eye.

The parking area is located here (Google Maps), 1.5 kilometres from the natural pool. 

To get to the Blue Eye itself, you walk along a newly-made path, through some very picturesque scenery.  You can also hire an e-scooter if you’d prefer.

There’s a picnic area and a little restaurant next to the Eye that serves traditional Albanian food.  It’s a pleasant spot to spend an hour or so, and the beautiful trees provide some welcome shade.  

Here you’ll also find a drinking fountain that’s constantly flowing with fresh water from the Eye.  Fill up your water bottle here, it’s really delicious!

See here for a detailed explanation of how to visit the Blue Eye, Albania .

9. Gjirokaster (an incredible UNESCO World Heritage Site)

Heading back north, I’d definitely recommend spending at least a day or two in and around Gjirokaster, the “Stone City”. 

This amazing old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is incredibly atmospheric.

Here you will find some of the best examples of Ottoman architecture in Europe.

Wandering through the maze of cobblestone streets, past carpet sellers and artisans making clothes and jewellery, feels like going back in time.  

The  medieval castle perched on a hill is a popular tourist destination and offers fantastic views over the old town and its surroundings.

Bizarrely, inside the castle grounds, you will find a U.S. Air Force plane that crash-landed in 1957. 

The aircraft was confiscated by the Albanian government, which believed that the Americans were using it as a spy plane.

Learn about the turbulent history of this fascinating little city by taking this excellent walking tour.

Gjirokaster is also a fantastic place to take a traditional Albanian cooking class .

If you have the time and want to stretch your legs after all of the driving, there are several great hiking trails in the mountains surrounding the town. 

Head to the  tourist information centre  in the main bazaar for maps and further info.

Gjirokaster is a really awesome place and definitely deserves to be on your Albania road trip itinerary.  I’d recommend spending at least one day here to see all the sights.

About three hours north of Gjirokaster, Berat is another well-preserved Ottoman city.

This historic town, known as the “City of a Thousand Windows”, is actually spread over two locations. 

The lower area beside the river bank is called Mangalem, and this is overlooked by Kalaja which is dominated by a medieval castle.

Visit Albania  runs guided walking tours of the old city which give a fascinating insight to the rich history of the area, and the city’s inhabitants through the ages. 

These tours are really great, I’d thoroughly recommend joining one.

For accommodation in Berat, the castle itself contains a few guesthouses which are excellent and have fantastic views over the old town below.

From Berat, it’s an easy two-hour drive back to Tirana .  On the way, check out Çobo Winery , a great family-run vineyard with beautiful grounds.

Suggested Albanian Road Trip Itineraries

Here are a few suggested Albania itineraries to help you plan the perfect trip.

These all assume that you will be flying into and out of Tirana.  But because each itinerary is a loop, you could start and finish at any point.

Albania isn’t a huge country. It only takes a few hours to drive from end to end.  

You could technically squeeze all of the above places into one week, at a push. Especially if you don’t spend too long at each of the beaches.  But it would be quite rushed.  

I always prefer to travel slowly and would recommend taking at least two weeks to do this Albania road trip, if possible.  

That way you’ll get much more of a feel for the places you’re travelling though.  You’ll almost certainly meet more people too 🙂

1-week Albania itinerary

With only one week, you’ll need to move quickly, but you’ll still be able to see a decent amount of the country.

Here’s the itinerary I’d suggest:

• Day 1: explore Tirana
• Day 2: drive to Vlorë, spend the afternoon and evening there
• Day 3: drive over the Llogara Pass, check out Dhërmi beach, stay in Himarë
• Day 4: spend the day exploring the local beaches ( Gjipe is my favourite)
• Day 5: drive to Sarandë, look around, then drive to Gjirokaster (via the Blue Eye, if you have time)
• Day 6:  explore Gjirokaster
• Day 7: drive back to Tirana (via Berat, if you have time)

10-day Albania itinerary

With 10 days, you can either try to visit more places or spend a bit longer getting to know the ones mentioned above.

Either way, I’d recommend spending two days in Tirana to get a better feel for the city.

You could also spend a night in Sarandë, and visit Ksamil and/or Butrint if you fancy.

2-week Albania itinerary

2 weeks is an ideal length for your Albania itinerary.  In this time, you’d easily be able to visit everywhere mentioned in this post.

Here’s a rough suggested itinerary:

• Day 1-2: Tirana
• Day 3: Vlorë
• Day 4: Llogara Pass, hike in Llogara National Park
• Day 5: Dhërmi beach, Himarë
• Day 6: Hike from Himarë along the coast, checking out the various beaches between there and Jalë beach
• Day 7:  Gjipe beach
• Day 8: Sarandë
• Day 9: Ksamil and Butrint
• Day 10-11: Blue Eye, Gjirokaster
• Day 12-13: Berat
• Day 14: return to Tirana

How To Get To Albania

There are a few different ways to get to Albania, depending on where you’re coming from.

Several airlines fly to Tirana from other European cities.  If coming from the UK, you can fly direct with either British Airways or Wizz Air.

I use – and recommend –  Aviasales  to find the best deals on flights. 

Their search engine is really easy to use and often picks up on promotions and discounted fares that are missed by other comparison sites. 

You can search across a range of dates, and it suggests the best dates and times for you.

🤩 Click here to compare the cheapest flights available

An alternative (and sometimes cheaper) option is to fly to Corfu  and then take the short (forty-minute) ferry to Sarandë. 

If you’re doing this, you can easily start your Albania road trip from here and still follow the above route.

If coming from Italy , there is an overnight ferry from Bari to Durrës, which also takes cars.  I took this ferry earlier this year and it was great. 

The cabin was super comfortable, and it’s a really atmospheric way to arrive in the Balkans.

From Greece , there are daily buses to Tirana from Athens and Thessaloniki.

Albania shares land borders with Montenegro (north-west), Kosovo (north-east), North Macedonia (east), and Greece (south/south-east).

These borders are all open and straightforward to cross, making it relatively easy to reach Albania by road from other destinations in south-east Europe.

You can also take your car on the ferry from Bari to Durrës (above).  This is likely to be the most convenient option if you’re coming from Italy , or other destinations in western Europe.

(If you are also visiting southern Italy, spend at least a few days in Naples – it’s one of the best, and most underrated, cities in Europe.)

Where To Stay During Your Albania Road Trip

Albania is still a very affordable destination, by European standards. From cheap guesthouses to luxury hotels, you’ll find a wide range of accommodations to fit your budget and preferences.

Hotels and guesthouses

Most locations have a variety of hotels and guesthouses. You usually won’t struggle to find a double room for €30 per night, including breakfast.  

They can be even cheaper in less touristy areas, as well as during off-season periods.  Popular places fill up during the summer months, so it’s a good idea to book ahead if you’re travelling then.

🤩 Check availability and prices!

Those travelling on a larger budget will find many luxury hotels and spas, especially in popular holiday spots like Dhermi and Ksamil .

Booking.com  is a good place to look for deals.

Hostels can be found in the towns and cities which are popular with backpackers, including Tirana, Himarë, Sarandë, Gjirokaster, and Berat. 

These are usually high quality and you can often snag a dorm bed for around €10 per night .

Airbnb  is becoming increasingly popular in Albania.  I’d always check out the listings on offer wherever you are planning to visit.  Sometimes the most beautiful places can be a steal.

The cheapest (i.e. free) option is to wild camp, which is possible on many of the country’s stunning beaches.  You shouldn’t have any trouble doing this as long as you steer clear of the busier places.  

If you have your own car, it’s usually straightforward to find a secluded spot and pitch up for the night.  This is also one of the best ways to keep your Albania road trip itinerary as flexible as possible.

Don’t expect many facilities, but this is an awesome way to keep costs down.  Plus you get to fall asleep to the sound of the waves 🙂

Check out this article where I review the  best tents for wild camping .

In short… One of the best tents that money can buy is the  MSR Hubba Hubba 2-person tent .

Here are some of my favourite  camping quotes and captions .

Best Time Of Year To Visit Albania

You can visit Albania any time of year.  However, the winters are cold (icy, steep, winding mountain roads = bad), and the summers very hot (and crowded, especially on the coast).  

The best time to visit Albania is either during the spring (April-June) or autumn (September-October).  The weather is pleasant, making it ideal for outdoor activities.  

You’ll also avoid many of the crowds, and may even be able to blag some off-peak discounts for accommodation.

Staying Safe In Albania

Albania is a very safe country to visit.  Crime against foreigners is rare, and most Albanians are extremely welcoming and hospitable.

Petty crime does occasionally occur, though probably no more than where you live.  Take the same precautions as you would anywhere, and you’ll be fine.

Albanian roads are the only places where your safety is likely to be at risk.  (See next section.)

Car Hire In Albania

In my experience, the best deals on car hire in Albania are usually found on localrent.com .  

They compare the prices of local car rental companies, which tend to be significantly cheaper than the big international hire companies.

I definitely recommend that you check out Localrent Albania if you need to hire a car for your road trip through Albania.  Prices are often lowest if you pick up your rental car from Tirana Airport.

🤩 Click here for the latest prices

Many countries’ driving licences are recognised in Albania.  If you’re coming from the UK, you can drive with your UK driving licence, without the need for an  International Driving Permit (IDP) . 

Car hire companies may impose their own requirements, so it’s always best to check with them before arriving if you need to hire a car.

Driving In Albania

Driving in Albania is super fun, and the best way to see the country.  But it’s not for the faint-hearted. 

Drivers can be aggressive (e.g. regularly overtaking on blind hairpin corners at three times the speed limit).  

If you’re a confident, competent driver you’ll be fine.  Stick to the limit, and if people are on your tail, just pull over and let the nutters pass.

Some roads are in fantastic condition, others are not. 

Beware of potholes, especially in rural areas.  And I’d avoid driving at night, as it’s much harder to spot animals/potholes in the road (and you’ll miss the amazing scenery).

Best Tours In Albania

You can browse through and book some of the best and most high-rated Albania tours on Viator .

There are many different tours to choose from. Some are short day trips with guides, others are multi-day (or even multi-week) trips where all of your transport and accommodation is taken care of.

Personally, I prefer to travel independently, but there are certainly advantages to joining an organised tour. It’s up to you what style of trip appeals to you most.

Here are answers to a few more frequently asked questions about visiting Albania.

Is Albania worth visiting?

Yes, Albania is definitely worth visiting for its stunning natural beauty, including pristine beaches and scenic mountain landscapes, rich historical sites from different eras, and a unique cultural blend of Mediterranean and Balkan influences.

How long do I need to see Albania?

You could see many of Albania’s highlights in 7 days, including Tirana, the Albanian Riviera, and historical sites such as Berat and Gjirokastër. However, I recommend spending at least 2 weeks in Albania to allow you to visit more off-the-beaten-path destinations and truly experience the local culture.

What paperwork do I need to drive my own car in Albania?

To drive your own car in Albania, you need a valid driver’s license from your home country, original car registration documents, and proof of insurance. It’s also a good idea to have an International Driving Permit (IDP) and a green card or international insurance document that proves your vehicle is insured for driving in Albania.

What are Albanian roads like?

Albanian roads vary in quality. Major highways and roads in urban areas are generally in good condition and offer smooth driving experiences. However, rural and mountainous areas often have roads that are less maintained, with possible potholes and uneven surfaces. Some remote areas may have unpaved or gravel roads.

Is Albania cheap to visit?

Albania is one of the most affordable countries to visit in Europe. Accommodation, food, and transportation are generally cheaper compared to most other European countries. Prices can vary between urban and rural areas, with tourist hotspots being slightly more expensive. However, overall, Albania offers great value for money.

Final Thoughts

I hope this guide helps you plan an epic road trip in Albania. It’s one of my favourite countries and I’m sure you’ll see why once you start exploring this Balkan gem.

Enjoy your trip! Let me know how it goes in the comments below.

** Love road trips?  Me too.  Check out some of my other road trip-related posts, including:

• Oman Road Trip: An Epic Arabian Adventure
• Driving From Dubai To Oman: What You Need To Know
• Ethiopia: A Road Trip Like No Other
• Best Places To Visit In Northern Turkey **

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• 23 Things To Do In Himarë: My Favourite Town On The Albanian Riviera (2024)
• 13+ Best Hotels in Ksamil, Albania in 2024
• How to Visit the Blue Eye: Albania's Natural Wonder (Syri i Kaltër) in 2024
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• Basic Albanian Phrases For Travel

Alex Tiffany

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10 Comments

Loved the articles. We’re planning to drive from Dubai to Oman in February and your road trip and advice is timely and helpful. We’ll let you know how it goes ????

I’m so glad 🙂 Hope you have a great trip!

Great post. Thanks for all that advice.

Glad you found it useful 🙂

Thank you Alex. I have limited time in Albania, hired a car but wasn’t sure of the best places to visit. You answered all of my questions. Thank you so much.

That’s great – glad it’s been helpful 🙂

Hello mate, do you have any tips for renting a car out in Albania, and crossing borders with it? I’m going to be travelling the Balkans in late Aug/early Sept and I want to go from Albania to Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia. From there I’ll be re-entering Albania after a couple of nights at the lake. I actually think the best way would be bus to Ohrid and then pick up a car there and drive back to Albania (Saranda area) but cant find any reasonable deals online

Eurocar (not Europcar) is one of the best local car companies in Albania and, as far as I know, they allow you to take their cars out of the country for a small additional fee. You can contact them directly via their website: https://eurocar.al . Make sure you let them know that you want to take the car out of the country at the time you make the booking, as they’ll need to sort out some extra paperwork for you that you’ll (probably) need to show at the border.

I don’t have any experience with renting a car in North Macedonia, but your other plan would be a one-way rental with a dropoff in another country, which I assume would cost a lot more (/ not be possible at all). If it were me, I’d definitely rent the car in Albania and return it to the same place.

Some great ideas here, but you’ve completely missed everything north of Tirana, particularly the northern city of Shkodër, which has absolutely transformed in the past two decades from a quaint town still pulling itself out of the vestiges of communism to a nexus point for backpackers and travellers. The amazing pedestrian-only Rruga Kolë Idromeno is not to be missed – both during the day and at night. Rozafa Castle and the nearby Lake Skadar, which straddles the border between Albania and Montenegro are a short drive/taxi ride away. Do NOT miss this northern Albanian jewel!!!

I’ve only just recently visited northern Albania for the first time and haven’t yet got round to writing about it (including updating this post). But you’re right, those places are awesome!

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• I’m Alex Tiffany.  Former corporate city robot; lifelong travel addict.
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Ultimate Albania Road Trip Itinerary: 10 Essential Stops

If you’re looking for an amazing and affordable travel destination, then look no further than Albania.

This small country in Europe has a lot to offer tourists, from its stunningly beautiful coastline and amazing beaches to its rich history filled with fascinating archaeological sites and historical towns.

You’ll be able to enjoy a diverse array of activities on your Albania itinerary, from hiking in the mountains to exploring ancient ruins.

Albania makes an excellent holiday destination for those who like to explore off-the-beaten path!

Also Read:  Best European Road Trips to Take Now 17 Best Cities to Visit in Europe

Albania Road Trip: Essential Stops

Did you know that Albania is a hidden gem in Europe?

This under-the-radar country is full of stunning landscapes, spectacular scenery, delicious food, beautiful beaches, and friendly people.

On an Albania road trip, you can enjoy stunning and dramatic scenery in Europe, from towering mountains and dark forests to pristine lakes and sweeping coastlines.

Here are the best places to visit and essential stops on any Albanian road trip.

Tirana is the capital of Albania.

Tirana is an amazing city with many fascinating buildings and museums that visitors will enjoy exploring.

From its bustling markets to its charming architecture, there’s something for everyone in this vibrant city.

Be sure to check top attractions including Skanderbeg Square located in the city centre, National History Museum, and the Pyramid of Tirana.

Tirana is also an excellent place to sample traditional Albanian food.

The Blue Eye of Albania

The Blue Eye of Albania is a natural wonder that tourists should not miss when visiting the country.

This strikingly blue body of water is a natural pool located in the town of Theth, and it is easy to get to from Tirana.

Theth is a picturesque village nestled in the mountains, and the drive there offers beautiful views.

As you approach The Blue Eye, you will see a large sign marking the spot.

There is ample parking, and visitors can enjoy a pleasant walk down to the lake.

Don’t forget your camera! This natural wonder is sure to amaze you.

Gjirokaster

Gjirokaster is a charming town in southern Albania that is known for its well-preserved Ottoman architecture.

It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and essential for history lovers.

There are many things to do in Gjirokaster, including exploring the city’s old bazaar, visiting the castle on top of the hill, and meandering through the narrow streets lined with stone houses.

Gjirokaster is also home to several museums.

The locals are friendly and welcoming, making it a great place to explore and learn about Albanian culture.

Butrint National Park

Butrint National Park is a must-see for tourists who visit Albania.

The park, located in the south of the country, is home to beautiful lakes and ancient ruins.

Visitors can hike or bike through the park, or take a boat ride on one of the lakes.

There are also many archaeological sites to explore in Butrint National Park, making it a fascinating destination for history lovers.

We definitely recommend adding the park to your Albania road trip itinerary.

Ksamil, Albania is a hidden gem in the Mediterranean.

With crystal-clear turquoise waters and stunning beaches, it’s easy to see why this town has become a popular tourist destination on the Albanian coast.

Popular activities include swimming, sunbathing on the beach, and exploring the nearby ruins.

You can also enjoy a trip down the Albanian Riviera from Ksamil or just relax in the city.

Albanian Riviera

The Albanian Riviera is a hidden coastline gem in southeastern Europe.

It extends from Vlore in north to Ksamil in the south.

With crystal-clear waters, sandy beaches, and Roman ruins nearby, it’s no wonder this stretch of the Adriatic Sea is a popular vacation spot for tourists from all over the world.

Popular destinations on the Albanian Riviera include Saranda, Himara, Porto-Palermo, and the secluded Gjipe Beach.

To reach the destinations, you will be driving along State Highway 8 or the Coastal Highway.

This is one of the most beautiful coastal drives in the world and offers stunning views.

Nestled in the alps of Northern Albania lies the small city of Shkoder.

While it may be a small city, there is plenty to do for tourists looking for an adventure.

From exploring ancient ruins, mosques, and monasteries to activities such as river rafting, there are plenty of attractions for visitors in this charming city.

The Albanian Alps are also perfect place for hiking.

The coastal town of Saranda sits on the Ionian Sea.

It’s a popular tourist destination, thanks to its Mediterranean atmosphere, crystal-clear waters, and miles of sandy beaches.

Saranda also has a rich history, which you can explore by visiting its ancient ruins and churches.

Kruje, located north of Tirana, is a popular tourist destination for visitors looking to experience Albanian culture and history.

There are many things to do in the medieval town of Kruje, from exploring the old city fortress and bazaar to participating in local festivals.

Kruje is also great for walking through the winding streets and admiring the architecture, to sampling traditional Albanian cuisine and exploring the nearby nature reserves.

Berat is another UNESCO World Heritage Site worth visiting in Albania.

Explore Berat Fortress which was built during Ottoman rule.

Spend a day touring the nearby wineries and enjoy the charming alleys of Old Town Berat.

Albania road trip is an amazing experience.

This beautiful country is home to a variety of interesting attractions, including stunning mountain scenery, crystal-clear lakes, and fascinating ancient ruins.

We hope you liked our Albania Road Trip Itinerary post.

Did we miss any amazing places to see on the Albania road trip? Let us know in the comments.

The Best Albanian Road Trip – Don’t Miss Albania’s Most Undiscovered Scenic Drive

• Post category: Destinations / Travel Tips

If you’re looking to go on the best Albanian road trip, you need to check out this relatively undiscovered scenic drive in the north.

Many claim that driving along the Albanian Riviera in the south is the most beautiful Albania road trip and I used to agree!

Seeing things like Butrint national park, the Blue Eye, and Llogara national park on the Albanian Riviera are amazing. But these are always recommended by those who haven’t spent much time in Albania.

I’ve been living in Albania for two years and after going on this incredible north Albanian road trip, I think my mind is forever changed.

If you’re looking for inspiration for your road trip in Albania, you should seriously consider this underrated place!

Disclaimer: This site contains affiliate links that will cost you nothing extra but offer me a little commission for any purchases made. These help me continue to offer helpful tips – I appreciate the support.

The Best Undiscovered Albanian Road Trip

Okay, enough is enough – I’ll let you in on the secret. The best place for an Albanian road trip is in the region known as Malesia e Madhe which is roughly translated to Great Highlands in English.

This area has some of the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen, plus there is a unique cultural aspect.

Because of its natural geographical barriers, Malesia e Madhe is where many Albanians fled, to escape the Ottoman invasion and rule.

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This helped preserve traditional Albanian culture for future generations and allowed people to continue freely practicing their religion. If you decide to drive the SH20 road on your Albanian road trip, you will see what I mean.

It is a very remote part of Albania, and without that road, it would be difficult to access, which makes sense why the Ottomans were kept out.

Hopefully knowing this will give you more perspective about the struggles Albanians have faced. I found it hard to imagine what life was like back then for those brave people who resisted.

5 Tips For Your Albanian Road Trip

Since there isn’t much information about this road trip in Albania, I figured that there are important things to know before setting off.

Since Malesia e Madhe is pretty out of the way, it is essential to be prepared before going. Here are some good tips to know for having the best Albanian road trip!

1. Things To Do Along SH20

Since this area of Albania is remote, don’t expect man-made tourist attractions. There aren’t any museums to visit – the main draw to driving on this specific Albanian road trip is for natural beauty and outdoor activities . 

There are plenty of beautiful viewpoints to stop at and take photos. This also provides a nice breather from driving as well. Since the roads can be a bit crazy, it’s good to stop and rest for a few minutes. 

The road goes along Lumi i Cemi (Cemi River) so if it is a hot day, it would be super refreshing to stop. Depending on rainfall and weather, the river often has this gorgeous blue/green color.

Like most rivers in the Albanian mountains, it will be very cold so it might not be enjoyable for everyone to swim in.

I grew up with cold mountain streams so it’s not as difficult for me but I understand others wouldn’t be used to it. Test it out first by just submerging your feet.

Have a picnic

It’s a bit sparse on SH20 until you to the small village of Tamare. There are some places to stop and eat, most connected to guesthouses for visitors.

Alternatively, you can bring your food to have a picnic wherever you find a good spot to enjoy.

Just remember to take any trash or containers back with you, to not contribute further to the trash pollution issue that’s prevalent in all of Albania.

The scenery in Malesia e Madhe is breathtaking and extremely wild. It’s amazing to explore, but imperative that you do so safely.

Many people use local guides that know the terrain and paths. If you do decide to go by yourself, make sure someone knows where you are, especially if you’re alone.

I’d recommend using a hiking all like AllTrails for guidance, and to have a backup power source as well. Also, weather can be extreme and change quickly, check with locals on weather conditions before going.

Though I’m not trying to scare you, you need to know that people die in these mountains for not taking them (and the weather) seriously.

Just recently French and Belgian tourists died in the nearby area of Valbona. Unfortunately, the Albanian rescue services often have to risk their own lives to help too.

So please be careful, your actions affect more than just yourself.

There are some gorgeous waterfalls to check out on your Albanian road trip in Malesia e Madhe. Many won’t be marked on google maps, so you’ll probably happen upon some as you explore.

There are a few marked though:

• Ujëvara e Selcës
• Ujevara e Lepushës  
• Ujëvara e Gjanve (near Vermosh)
• Ujevara e Bashkimit (near Vermosh)

Ujëvara means waterfall, so look for signs that have that word.

It also depends on when you’re visiting. If you’re there during the height of summer or directly after (July, August, September), the waterfalls will be pretty dry. Spring is the best time for them.

2. How Long Will It Take

From the city center of Shkoder to the end of SH20 in the mountain village of Vermosh, is said to be a two-hour drive of about 96km .

If you’re coming from Podgorica, it is listed as the same time, but 87km, plus there is a border crossing which will add time.

Coming from the city center of Tirana, it is 3 hours 40 mins and 200km , though the road from Tirana to Shkoder is known to have a lot of traffic, especially in the summer, so it might be longer.

These are just the estimates from google maps. In reality, even without traffic and border crossings, this drive will take you longer as it’s going over some steep mountains.

You can expect many hairpin turns from the mountain passes, as well as winding roads even when you’re driving in the valley along the Cemi River.

Plus if you factor in stopping at viewpoints, swimming, hiking, a picnic, etc., it will be much longer.

It is possible to do this as a day trip from Shkoder , as long as you don’t mind lots of driving.

I wouldn’t recommend doing it as a day trip from Tirana or Podgorica though with traffic and the border crossings could take a while (they don’t always).

Instead of trying to smush it all into one day, I’d recommend you stay overnight to take your time and enjoy Malesia e Madhe.

3. Where To Stay In Malesia e Madhe

Northern Albania is known for its traditions and hospitality, and you can see that with the number of guesthouses you’ll find.

When visiting the mountains, it’s the main type of accommodation. Of course, there are some fancy places, like this luxury resort in Boge . It’s located on the road to Theth and it’s perfect if you want to treat yourself or have a romantic weekend.

Though visiting Malesia e Madhe isn’t promoted a lot on international travel mediums, it doesn’t mean that it isn’t popular.

Albanians love to visit this area, especially ones that have emigrated away but come back every year for a summer holiday.

If you’re visiting from the middle of July to early September, you will need to arrange accommodation before. Here are some different options for you – I’ve arranged them by village.

Many guesthouses might only have 1-2 rooms so I’ve listed a few for each place so you can check on availability.

Tamare is a place that has more of a small village vibe, with many guesthouses grouped close together. 

• Guesthouse Rireyiana , Sofra Kelmendit , and Te Gusti Hotel

Selce as a village is more spread out, so it feels a little more remote. It also doesn’t have as many options for accommodation, but it’s great if you’re looking for peace and quiet.

• Stay in a triangle-shaped cabin or the Turi-Selce guesthouse

Lepushe is the 2nd to last village you reach on SH20 before getting to the border with Montenegro. It’s known as the pearl of the Albanian Alps .

Though many people rush to Theth Village since it’s been promoted heavily, Lepushe is a really beautiful destination that is a great alternative.

• Guesthouse Alpini (they also have fancier private villas here that are perfect for a romantic weekend)
• Bujtina Tradicionale or Hotel Kelmendi – though it’s located off on a smaller road that might not be as accessible, talk with the host before booking

Vermosh is the last village you can reach on SH20 before the border with Montenegro. It’s another super area with lots of hiking and waterfalls to see. 

• Peraj Guesthouse or Hotel Vermoshi TDC
• Columbus Villas (probably the most luxurious place to stay in this region, great for a romantic getaway)

4. Where To Rent A Car

If you’re planning to start this road trip from Shkoder, it’s important to know how to get a rental car . Check out my full guide on day trips from Shkoder !

I have gone around and talked with many of the places that rent cars in Shkoder city center. You’ll recognize them because they have signs that say makina me qera which means car for rent .

What most quote you will be 25 euro per day for manual and 35 euro per day for automatic (it will be much higher in July and August).

This is without insurance though. When you ask about insurance, prices that they tell you (or make up on the spot) will vary.

One place that seemed more honest told me that none of these small places can offer you insurance, they just say there is insurance but there really isn’t any.

The only success I seemed to find was at GoRent Albania – Shkoder location . Since they are a branch of a larger company, it seems like they offer legitimate insurance.

The only thing not covered is the bottom of the car, which they tell you upfront about. You can also use a credit card to do the deposit (or 300 euro in cash) and you can pay by card as well.

Unfortunately, since it is a small branch, they might not have any cars available in the height of summer. You can contact them in advance though to reserve.

Since they are the only company in Shkoder I feel comfortable recommending, if they don’t have cars, I’d say to just rent from Tirana airport .

There are bigger companies that will have plenty of availability and legitimate insurance coverage.

5. More Important Things To Know For Your Albania Road Trip

Doing an Albanian road trip in Malesia e Madhe will undoubtedly be beautiful and fun, but there are important things to know.

Earlier in the hiking section I touched on how remote the area is, and how important safety is while hiking. Beyond that, there is still a need to be cautious.

Fuel Availability 

Since it is very remote, there are no gas (petrol) stations after you turn off the larger E762 road onto SH20.

You need to make sure to have a full tank of gas, especially if you plan on going all the way to Vermosh or if you are staying in the area for a few days.

Check how much your tank holds, as some can be quite small. You might need to take some reserve fuel.

Food Availability

The same warning goes for food. Guest houses usually provide food along with the lodgings, especially breakfast.

For some, meals might not be included so you will have to pay extra, or purchase food there, but don’t expect a big supply since it is remote.

To be safe, I’d suggest bringing along some snacks at least. If you’re strict on being a vegetarian or vegan, I’d say to bring food supplies as mountain food usually includes meat and dairy products (even indirectly like broth for soup).

Cash / ATMs

Albania is largely a cash society, even in bigger cities. You can expect to pay everything in cash in this region. If there aren’t gas stations, that should tell you how remote it is, so don’t expect card machines.

You should be able to pay in both Euro and Albanian Lek, but it will be easier to purchase small items with LEK like coffee and food.

If you use a large 50 euro bill to pay for coffee, you might not get the best exchange rate from the waiter. Paying for larger things like your accommodation is good to pay in euro (if you prefer).

Either way, make sure to visit an ATM in Shkoder or Tirana to withdraw enough money for fuel, food, and accommodation. Use the yellow and blue ATMs (Credins Bank) for free cash withdrawals in Albania.

Easier Albanian Road Trip Alternatives

Though I’d highly recommend doing an Albanian road trip, especially this specific one I’m suggesting, I know it might not suit everyone.

If you don’t feel comfortable driving or maybe you don’t want to go through the hassle of arranging a rental car, here are some alternative tours.

Hopefully, these can still give you a nice taste of what this region holds.

• From Tirana: 3-Day Trip Koman Lake, Valbona, and Theth Hiking Tour
• From Tirana: Valbona Park, Koman Lake and Prizren city, Kosovo
• From Shkodër: Day Trip to Bogë and Theth National Park
• From Shkoder: 2-Day Trip to Theth with Accommodation

Best Albanian Road Trip – Final Thoughts

I hope all of these tips for your Albanian road trip have helped inspire you. There’s so much to see in northern Albania , many of which aren’t talked about on regular travel blogs.

If you’re looking to have a super unique Albania road trip, then driving along SH20 in Malesia e Madhe will be great! 

Need more inspiration? Check out these awesome 10 day Albania intineraries !

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Albanian Riviera Tour – Itinerary with the best beaches

The Albanian Riviera is a 120 km long coastline in the South of Albania. The area has some of the most beautiful and unspoiled beaches in Europe. However, as there are so many beaches and sights to visit in the Albanian Riviera, how do you decide what to do?

Highlights of the Albanian Riviera Tour

• Visit to the Blue Eye Spring
• Swim at the unspoiled beaches of the Albanian Riviera
• Ksamil beach and boat trip to Ksamil islands
• UNESCO World Heritage sites, including Butrint
• Visit Museum cities: Berat & Gjirokastra

Because there are so many little beaches in the Albanian Riviera, it can be difficult to decide what to visit. Moreover, it is not easy to reach the smaller beaches by public transport, especially if you do not speak the Albanian language. Therefore, a tour of the Albanian Riviera will make your visit a lot easier.

Albanian Riviera Tour Itinerary

Duration: 8 days; 7 nights Departure point: Tirana, Albania Tour type: Active, Adventure, Beaches, Cultural Suitable for: Everyone Language: English Included: -Private transportation -Breakfast daily -Selected entrance fees -Private tour guide -7 nights in handpicked hotels -Airport pickup and drop-off at Tirana International Airport

Excluded: -Meals and drinks -Flight -Travel insurance

Day 1: Arrival Day

• Airport pick-up service from Tirana International Airport
• Check-in and time to refresh at your hotel in Tirana
• Guided walking tour of the city center of Tirana
• Overnight stay in a 3 star hotel in Tirana

Day 2: Berat city – Zvernec Island – Vlore

• Breakfast at the hotel
• Visit Berat city The city of Berat is located in the center of Albania. It takes around 2 hours to drive from Tirana to Berat.Berat is the most beautiful historical town in Albania. The old town of Berat is very well preserved, therefore, the city is a UNESCO heritage site. Berat is famous for the traditional Ottoman houses, that were built on the side of the hill.The houses are white colored and they all have windows which overlook the river and the valley below. Therefore, Berat is also called “the city of a thousand windows”.Walking through Berat is like walking through a museum. The streets are all paved with traditional cobble stones. And many of the traditional houses, have been turned into hotels, cafes and restaurants.
• Visit the Castle of Berat From the center of Berat, you can walk uphill for about 15 minutes, to reach the Castle of Berat on the top of the hill. The castle is a large fortress with many churches and mosques inside the castle’s walls. From the castle, you have an amazing panoramic view of the surrounding areas. You can see the Old town below. And you also see the bright blue Osum river in the valley. Although, the castle existed in 200 B.C. The majority of the castle dates back to the 13th century.
• Sightseeing at Zvernec Island. Zvernec Island is a little island in the Narta Lagoon. A long bridge leads you from the mainland to Zvernec Island. On the island, you can visit the little Zvernec monastery. The island is a beautiful location to make pictures.
• Vlore Beach The city Vlore is a very popular and large beach side city. It is also the starting point of the Albanian Riviera, which leads from Vlore southwards to Saranda. The city is built around a large horseshoe bay in the sea. Along the bay, there is a popular beach side promenade called Lungomare. Along this promenade, you can find many shops, restaurants, clubs, coffee houses and bars.
• Free time to walk by Vlore beach in the evening.
• Overnight stay in a 3 star hotel in Vlore

Day 3: Llogara Pass – Dhermi beach

• Stop at the Llogara Pass. There is a coastal road between Vlore and Saranda, that leads by all the beaches of the Albanian Riviera. The highest point on the coastal road is the Llogara Pass. We will make a stop at the Llogara Pass on our journey southwards. The Llogara Pass is famous for the spectacular view. From the pass, you can see the Ionian Sea and the beaches below. At the pass, there is a coffee house, where you can have a refreshing drink or a coffee, while admiring the view down below.
• Dhermi beach. Dhermi beach is one of the most popular beaches in the Albanian Riviera. There is a little village on the mountain side, it is worth walking up the hill to see some of the old houses and little churches. Afterwards, you can relax and swim on the lovely beach. Moreover, you can also walk along the beach to the stunning Drymades beach, which comes highly recommended by the Lonely Planet.
• Overnight stay in a 3 star hotel in Dhermi

Day 4: Gjipe beach – Jale beach – Himare village

• Gjipe beach. The beach of Gjipe is a very private beach, because the beach is entirely enclosed by cliffs. After a short drive from Dhermi, you need to walk for 10 minutes to visit the beach of Gjipe. The beach is one of the most hidden beaches of Albania. It is a beautiful place, and it is known for the perfect turquoise water. You will have some free time at Gjipe beach to relax and swim.
• Jale beach. Jale beach is close to Gjipe and it is known for the clear water. There is a little bay at this beach, but there are not many facilities yet. It is possible to go by road to Jale, but you can also go via the sea on a little kayak or by foot.
• Himare village. In the late afternoon, we transfer to the village of Himare. There is a small walking tour of the old village, which is on the hill. You can see some of the traditional houses, which are on the hillside. Moreover, since the village is on the hill it offers a beautiful view towards the Ionian Sea.
• Overnight stay in a 3 star hotel in Himare

Day 5: Ali Pasha castle – Borsh beach – Saranda

• Ali Pasha Castle. The castle of Ali Pasha is something special, because the castle is on a little peninsula in the middle of the Porto Palermo bay. The castle was built by Ali Pasha Tepelena, who was a governor while the Turkish Ottomans ruled Albania. Ali Pasha was somewhat of an eccentric figure and therefore there are many legends and stories about the castle’s owner. The building has a triangular shape and is pitch dark inside. But on the roof top, you can overlook the entire bay, which is stunning.
• Borsh beach. The beach of Borsh is an impressive sight, because the beach is extremely long. You can choose to stay amongst other people, close to the restaurants. Or you can walk along the beach to be by yourself. The beach has perfect clear blue water and there is a good restaurant at the beach as well.
• Saranda beach. Saranda is located all the way in the south of Albania, close to the Greek border. The city is the most well-known beach destination in Albania, and it is known for the vibrant nightlife. Along the seaside, there is a great variety of restaurants, bars, clubs, shops and coffee houses. In the evening, you can walk along the waterside and see all the little lights along the bay.
• Overnight stay in a 3 star hotel in Saranda

Day 6: Butrint UNESCO site – Ksamil beach & islands

• Guided tour of Butrint UNESCO heritage site. Butrint is the most impressive, archaeological site in Albania. At Butrint, you can visit the ruins of an ancient city. The site was inhabited by the Greeks from Corfu, the Romans and the Byzantines. What makes the site special, is that it is a little sanctuary and it feels very romantic. The ruins are surrounded by the trees and nature of the national park. Moreover, the site is located on a small hill, which is surrounded by water from Lake Butrint and the Vivardi channel. The archaeological remains and the beautiful setting, make Butrint worth a visit.
• Ksamil beach and islands. Ksamil beach is the most beautiful beach in Albania. The beach is paradise-like with perfect white sand and the clearest sea water you have ever seen. Moreover, there are four little islands in front of the beach. The islands are grown with nature and they have a very tropical feel. We take the boat to the Twin islands, that are connected to each other by a little strip of land. There is free time in Ksamil to swim and relax.

Day 7: Blue Eye Albania – Gjirokaster UNESCO site – Tirana

• Visit to the Blue Eye Spring. The Blue Eye Spring is a natural wonder and touristic highlight. The underwater spring pumps water from an underwater cave to the surface. The Blue Eye spring is very beautiful, because of its bright blue colour. The blue/green colour of the water seems artificial, but it is natural. Moreover, the spring looks like a human eye. The blue water is the iris and the black underwater cave is the pupil. The Blue Eye is something truly unique, that you cannot see anywhere else.
• Visit to Gjirokastra UNESCO site. Gjirokastra is a historical city, which has been crowned a UNESCO heritage site. The city has beautiful, traditional stone houses and cobble stone streets everywhere. There are a several touristic sights in the city. There is a castle on the top of the hill overlooking the town. Moreover, you can visit Zekate or Skenduli house, which are traditional houses with the original décor inside. Furthermore, you can visit the Cold War tunnel, which is a bunker from the communist period. Or you can visit the house of Enver Hoxha, who was the former communist dictator of Albania. However, if you do not want to visit any of the sights, you can simply browse at the traditional bazaar market, where you can buy souvenirs and crafts.
• Drive to Tirana

Day 8: Departure day

• Transfer to Tirana International Airport for your return flight home

Where is the Albanian Riviera?

The Albanian Riviera is a 120-kilometre-long coastline in the South of Albania. The area has some of Europe’s most beautiful and hidden beaches. Although Albania has some beaches in the north of the country, the beaches in the south are the most beautiful. The Albanian Riviera starts in the coastal city Vlore and runs southwards to the city Saranda. Both Vlore and Saranda are big coastal cities with many facilities e.g. shops, restaurants, bars etcetera.

However, the true beauty of the Albanian Riviera are the little beaches. The small, hidden beaches that are enclosed by cliffs. Compared to other European countries, Albania still has unspoiled and deserted beached.

The coastal road that runs through the Albanian Riviera has a very Mediterranean feel. The road winds through the hills and every time you turn a corner, there is a little hidden beach and a fantastic view across the Ionian Sea.

The climate of the Albanian Riviera is excellent. The area has hot dry summers and mild rainy winters. The areas in the south of Albania, around Saranda, have 290 sunny days per year.

When should I visit the Albanian Riviera?

The best time to visit the Albanian Riviera is between April and October. The high season in Albania is in July and August, when there are hot temperatures and the seawater warm.

However, it is also very nice to visit Albania just before or just after the high season. If you have a chance to visit in April, May, June, September or October, you can avoid the busy season. Moreover, the temperatures are still very pleasant.

The best part of visiting in the months just before or just after the high season, is that you can have the loveliest beaches to yourself. Ksamil beach is the most popular and most pretty beach, I have visited in June and it was completely empty.

Pre-summer season: April – June High season: July and August Post summer season: September and October Low season: November – March

Do not worry, if you only have the chance to visit in July or August, due to holiday restrictions. In these months, there are still plenty little hidden beaches that are uncrowded.

Moreover, at many beaches, you can wade through the sea along the cliffs to find a hidden beach. Furthermore, some of the beaches, like Dhermi and Borsh, are very long. So, you can walk along the beach, to find the perfect spot for yourself.

How to get to the Albanian Riviera?

You can get to the Albanian Riviera by:

• Flying to Tirana International airport and driving to the south.
• Flying to the Greek Corfu island and taking the ferry to Albania.

To fly to Tirana International airport, you can book a flight with one of the following airlines:

Adria airways, Transavia airways, Austrian airlines, Alitalia, Tui Fly, British Airways, Lufthansa airline, Edelweiss air, Czech airlines, Aegean air, Air Serbia, Turkish airlines, Pegasus airline, Albawings, Blue Panorama airlines, Wizz Air, Smart Wings airline, Air Albania, Eurowings and Ernest airlines.

Then from Tirana, you can get to the Albanian Riviera by car or by bus. From Tirana, it takes roughly 3 hours and 30 minutes to drive to Vlore. The coastal city of Vlore is the starting point of the Albanian Riviera.

From Vlore, you can drive along the winding coastal road to Saranda. There are many little beaches between Vlore and Saranda. If you drive from Tirana to Saranda along the coastal road without stopping it will take you 6 hours and 30 minutes.

****IMPORTANT**** If you book the Albanian Riviera Tour, you will be picked up from Tirana International Airport and all transportation is included in the tour.

It is possible to take a minibus to Vlore or Saranda, those depart from the bus station, which is 5 kilometres from the city centre of Tirana.

It is also possible to fly to the Greek Corfu island and take the ferry to Albania. Upon arrival at Corfu airport, you need to travel to the port of Corfu. The ferry trip from the port of Corfu to Saranda takes 30 minutes by high speed boat or 70 minutes by ferry boat. The ticket prices for the ferry are between €19.00 – €23.80 depending on the season. There are between 1 – 5 ferry boat departures a day, depending on whether you travel in the low-season or the high-season.

How is the Albanian Riviera weather?

The weather in the Albanian Riviera in the summer is between 17 – 33 °C, depending on the month and city you visit.

The Albanian Riviera is the coastal area between Vlore city and Saranda city. Therefore, you can see the temperature visuals for both cities just below.

The best period to visit Vlore is between April and September. On average the temperatures in Vlore are:

April – 17 °C May – 19°C June – 23 °C July – 26 °C August – 27°C September – 25 °C

The best period to visit Sarande is between April and October. On average the temperatures in Sarande are:

April – 22 °C May – 24°C June – 29 °C July – 33 °C August – 32°C September – 27 °C

Does Albania have nice beaches?

The nicest beach of Albania is Ksamil beach . The beach of Ksamil is like a paradise with perfect white sand and turquoise water. There are four little islands in front of the beach, which gives it a very tropical feeling.

The most well-known beaches in the Albanian Riviera are Vlore, Sarande and Dhermi . These are popular amongst tourists and young people. At Vlore, Sarande and Dhermi, you will find a variety of restaurants, bars, clubs, coffee places and shops near the beach.

However, some of the lesser-known and smaller beaches are the best, if you are looking for private and unspoiled beaches. Some of the smaller beaches that are well worth a visit are:

• Gjipe beach
• Monastery beach
• Mirror beach
• Borsh beach

If you prefer to stay in a village with some character, instead of a large city. You can choose to stay at Himare. The village of Himare has traditional houses on the hill and it has a beautiful city. Himare is also a very convenient place to stay as it is in the middle of the Albanian Riviera. So it is easy to visit the nearby beaches by taxi.

Related Questions

How long is Albanian coastline? The Albanian coastline is 427 km long. Albania has beaches along the Adriatic Sea in the North and along the Ionian Sea in the South. The most beautiful part of the coast is the Albanian Riviera, which is 120 kilometres long. The Albanian Riviera is in the south of Albania between Vlore and Sarande.

How many islands has Albania? Albania has 13 islands, which are Sazan island, Kune island, Malsori island, Zvernec island, Shurdhah island, Maligrad island, Tongo island, Stillo island, Paqe island and the four Ksamil islands. For tourists, the best islands to visit at Sazan, Zvernec and the Ksamil islands.

What is the nearest airport to the Albanian Riviera? The nearest airports to the Albanian Riviera are Tirana International Airport (TIA) and Corfu Airport (CFU). If you fly to Tirana airport, you can drive or take the bus to Vlore city, which takes 3 hours and 30 min. If you fly to Corfu airport, you can take the ferry boat to Albania for 30 – 70 min.

I am an Albania Tour Guide , who organizes 1-day, 2-day or multiple day private tours in Albania . I arrange your transportation and I am your English speaking guide. So that, you get to experience the most beautiful places in Albania! Kind regards, Manon

Welcome to Albania!

I am a tour guide in albania.

I am an Albania Tour Guide , who organizes 1-day, 2-day or multiple day private tours in Albania .

Book your free  Albania Planning Session via Skype now, by using my online scheduler to find a time that’s convenient for you.

THE 10 BEST Landmarks in Donskoy (Moscow)

Sights in donskoy.

• Points of Interest & Landmarks
• Architectural Buildings
• Churches & Cathedrals
• Historic Sites
• Monuments & Statues
• Sacred & Religious Sites
• Observation Decks & Towers
• Scenic Walking Areas
• 5.0 of 5 bubbles
• 4.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• 3.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• 3rd Transport Ring (TTK)
• District Central (TsAO)
• Garden Ring
• Boulevard Ring
• Good for a Rainy Day
• Good for Kids
• Budget-friendly
• Hidden Gems
• Good for Big Groups
• Adventurous
• Good for Couples
• Honeymoon spot
• Good for Adrenaline Seekers
• Things to do ranked using Tripadvisor data including reviews, ratings, photos, and popularity.

1. Donskoi Monastery

2. Shukhov Tower

3. Temple of the Holy Spirit Descent at the Danilovskoye Cemetery

4. Danilovskoye Cemetery

5. Temple of the Placing of the Robe of the Lord

6. Necropolis of Donskoi Monastery

7. Krymskaya Embankment

8. Sculpture Abduction of Europe

9. Monument to the Heroes of Motorists

10. Temple of Tikhvin Icon of Our Lady

11. Church of St. John of the Ladder at Donskoy Monastery

12. Temple of St. Zacharias and Elizabeth in the Donskoy Monastery

13. Temple Don Mother of God

14. The Tomb Chapel of Levchenko in the Donskoy Monastery

15. Temple F Seraphim of Sarov and Anna of Kashin

16. Church of St. John Chrysostom

17. church of st. john of rila.

18. Zhiloi Dom VTSSPS

19. Shrine of St. Alexius Temple

20. Church of the Holy Reverend Alexander Svirskiy

21. Danilovskaya Manufaktura

22. Shabolovskiy Telecentre

23. Zhiloy Dom NKVD

24. Chapel of Donskiy Monastery

25. Moscow Nobility Almshouse in the name of S.D. Nachayev

26. Alexander Nevskiy Cathedral

27. chapel of st. nicholas over the grave of n. grebnevskiy.

28. Leninskiy Prospekt Metro Station

30. Arkhimandritskiye Pokoi

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Home > Where To Stay In Moscow – Best Hotels In Moscow Included!

Where To Stay In Moscow – Best Hotels In Moscow Included!

Written by our local expert SJ

Sarah-Jane has lived in Croatia for 10+ years. SJ, as she is known, has been traveling the Balkans & beyond since 2000. She now shares her passion for traveling with her husband & kids.

Written by travel writer Ivan Tannenberg . Ivan is an independent traveler, history junkie, and techno-geek. 

In this post, I’ll try to answer the question ‘where is the best place to stay in Moscow?’ as best as I can!

Russia’s sprawling capital, one of the must-visit cities in the country , has long been known as an expensive city for hotel rates. While the situation has improved significantly over the past several years, the authorities are still adding accommodation in Moscow to suit every taste and budget .

Moscow is rapidly becoming a city that caters to a well-heeled clientele and travelers on a tight budget . After several trips to Moscow, I’ve noticed that many people tend to stay near the Kremlin. It is definitely convenient but adds up quickly. In this post, I’ll try to answer the question ‘where is the best place to stay in Moscow?’ as best as I can!

Central District

• Kitay-Gorod:  The very heart of Moscow, arguably the best area to stay in Moscow for tourists
• Basmanny: Best place to stay in Moscow with kids
• Krasnoselski:  Home to several railway stations and other transportation options
• Presnensky: This area to stay in Moscow if you’re short on cash
• Tverskoy: A central Moscow nightlife district and the best place to stay in Moscow to experience the night scene
• Zamoskvorechye:  Historic district in central Moscow, just across the Moskva River from the Kremlin

Western District

• Dorogomilovo: Nice area of Moscow to stay for Stalinist architecture and other monumental buildings

Eastern District

• Izmailovo:  Quieter area home to gorgeous historic architecture and markets

Skip Ahead To My Advice Here!

Best Accommodation In Basmanny District, Moscow

1. mercure hotel baumanskaya – 4 stars.

This hotel is a short walk from Baumanskaya metro station, the Epiphany Cathedral at Yelokhovo, and the Yauza River. This quiet and small hotel has free WiFi, and it didn’t feel like staying in a branded hotel (Accorhotels).

The interior is done up in a modern style, while the rooms are equipped with plentiful amenities. The hotel restaurant offers a delicious variety of international cuisine. Additionally, there is a wide variety of dining establishments in the area nearby.

The staff is friendly and fluent in English (unlike many other hotels in Moscow). All public areas in the hotel were designed to provide effective wide-spectrum air cleaning, so lung disorder sufferers are sure to breathe easily here. Complimentary bottled water in rooms is likewise provided for those staying at this hotel, which is one of the best places to stay in Moscow, Russia’s capital for couples and families.

Click here for more information and the latest prices.

2. Pokrovka 6 Hotel – 3 Stars

This small but lovely hotel occupies an attic in a building with oddly shaped rooms. Located some 12 minutes’ walk from the Red Square and just 7 minutes from the Kitai-Gorod metro station, Pokrovka 6 Hotel has its clean and up-to-date rooms decorated in light and bright colors.

Chistoprudny Boulevard and the area around it are filled with several excellent restaurants, so make sure to visit some of them.

Best Accommodation In Krasnoselsky District, Moscow

3. hilton moscow leningradskaya – 5 stars.

This typical Hilton hotel is situated in one of Stalin’s Seven Sister skyscrapers and has everything you need for a comfortable stay. Although it is close to the busy Leningradsky and Kazansky railway stations, the hotel’s Moscow city area is not grotty. Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya provides easy access to all major transportation hubs with several business centers and various governmental institutions around.

I have stayed here many times and always had excellent service from pleasant and helpful staff. As one of the top Moscow hotels, it also has very comfortable beds, a swimming pool, restaurants, and bars and is a short ride from the Red Square, one of the absolute top sites in Moscow.

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Best accommodation in presnensky district, moscow, 4. red brick hotel – 3 stars.

While there are plenty of mid-range hotels in Moscow’s historical center, the Red Brick Hotel is my favorite one. Located within walking distance of Kitai-Gorod metro station and the Pryanik Museum, the hotel has some of its rooms decorated with brick walls and, in general, look very stylish. Some of the rooms may be smaller than in other hotels around, but they were recently renovated and are very cozy.

The staff was accommodating and knowledgeable, and they even offered me some valuable tips for exploring the area around . I enjoyed their food in a casual atmosphere, great value for money.

If you’re searching for where to stay in Moscow as a tourist, this district and hotel is always a good choice!

Best Accommodation In Tverskoy District, Moscow

5. four seasons hotel moscow – 5 stars.

I will be honest; Four Seasons Hotel is one of the best hotels in Moscow. Overlooking the Manezhnaya Square is just three minutes walk from the Red Square and the State Historical Museum.

Okay, this hotel near Red Square Moscow is not very far from the Kremlin walls. Still, with 180 elegant rooms, monumental Stalinist architecture, and over-the-top amenities, it offers a wide range of excellent facilities and the best service.

6. Arium Hotel – 4 Stars

With 60 small no-frills rooms, this accommodation in Moscow is not just a hotel or a B&B, but the owners refer to it as an attractive hotel for business and savvy travelers alike! Located in the Tverskoy District (with exceptional city access and cool and trendy bars in the area), Arium Hotel features a restaurant that serves Caucasian cuisine and a 24-hour gym. The rooms come with complimentary free WiFi. They also provide a roundtrip airport shuttle for a surcharge.

Additionally, the Tverskoy District is also home to renowned Tverskaya Street, the main boulevard and one of Moscow’s best streets. It’s a magnificent road to walk on, flanked by impressive buildings and countless shops. The country’s most expensive street is Russia’s counterpart of other famous boulevards like Oxford Street or the Champs-Élysées.

7. Vagabond Hostel – Moscow Budget Accommodation

With a cool and catchy business name, the Vagabond hostel was founded by two nomads who have a reputation for being avid travelers. Their hostel is yet another fantastic place to stay while backpacking Moscow, where you can relax, chat with fellow backpackers and find travel buddies to hang out with. If you’re looking for things to do at night in Moscow, your fellow guests will be able to give you some tips.

It is a really well-thought-out hostel that features a kitchenette, extra luggage storage for your backpacking gear , a shared lounge, and bathrooms. Situated just two metro stops away from Belorusskaya railway station (where Aeroexpress trains from Sheremetyevo arrive) near the monument of Pushkin, this hostel is definitely not to be missed while in Moscow.

Additionally, Vagabond Hostel lies in a popular nightlife area in Moscow, too. So, if you’re trying to figure out where to stay in Moscow for nightlife, this would be a great choice. This is arguably the best place to stay in Moscow for backpackers and budget travelers.

Best Accommodation In Zamoskvorechye District, Moscow

8. swissotel krasnye holmy – 5 stars.

Located just a stone’s throw away from Paveletskaya metro station and Paveletsky railway terminal, where trains from Domodedovo airport arrive, Swissotel Krasnye Holmy is a top-notch hotel with a mind-boggling 360-degree panoramic view of Moscow and the river. It takes a couple of seconds to get to the top of the 34-story tower to enjoy dinner and a view on the rooftop terrace .

This area of Moscow is tranquil despite the proximity of the railway station. The hotel has clean and contemporary rooms and suites, a fitness center, a sauna, and outstanding service.

9. Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow – 5 Stars

One of the most luxurious hotels in Moscow, the Hotel Baltschug Kempinski building dates back to 1898. Situated in the middle of Baltschug Island, the hotel is within walking distance of major tourist attractions in Moscow, including the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour and the Red Square. Just cross the bridge to find yourself near the best places to visit in Moscow, Russia.

From the moment you step into the lobby, you will be welcomed by the courteous omnipresent staff. Within seconds, you feel remarkably relaxed and comfortable, like a home away from home. The Kempinski hotel has 225 opulent rooms decorated with curtains and other soft furnishings made from sumptuous fabrics. If you’re figuring out where to stay in Moscow, who’s luxurious and high-end, this is a superb choice.

10. Comrade Hostel – Moscow Budget Accommodation

Perhaps one of Moscow’s best hostels for socializing is its central location, proximity to a wide range of tourist attractions, and accommodating English-speaking staff. Located on the third floor of a historical building in the Russian capital’s very heart, the Comrade Hostel is really clean.

While the lack of an elevator may cause some inconvenience, you shouldn’t worry. Ask the staff to help with your luggage , and they will gladly do just that. The hostel offers laundry and self-catering facilities.

Best Accommodation In Dorogomilovo District, Moscow

11. radisson royal hotel moscow – 5 stars.

Set in one of the wealthiest Moscow neighborhoods, next to Kutuzovsky Avenue and the Russian Government’s main office, this high-rise is one of the two Joseph Stalin skyscrapers you can actually get into. And it is well worth the effort.

Like its sisters, the Radisson Royal Hotel Moscow, formerly known as the Hotel Ukraine, is unique in its grandeur. The interior underwent a comprehensive renovation in 2010. Now, the hotel is regarded as one of the best in Moscow.

Besides its spectacular collection of arches, stained glass windows, and a painted ceiling, the hotel also has a restaurant serving delicious mouth-watering food. A fleet of all-weather luxury tourist boats cruises the Moscow River even in the dead of winter, definitely one of those cool things to do in Moscow.

• One Week In Moscow Travel Itinerary

Best Accommodation In Izmailovo District, Moscow

12. vega izmailovo hotel – 4 stars.

One of the most budget-friendly Moscow accommodation options, the Izmailovo complex comprises five interconnected blocks, which are very popular with big groups of travelers. Each of the five blocks has its own name, but service and prices are often quite similar.

Although not necessarily located in the central Moscow districts, the hotel is situated right beside Partizanskaya metro station. It takes about 20 minutes to reach Red Square by metro. The Izmailovo Kremlin and the area locals call the Vernissage (an otherwise large shopping area and the flea market) were just a bonus to staying at this hotel .

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Other Good Hotels In Moscow

13. loft hotel h11.

If you’re traveling with kids , the Loft Hotel in Basmanny is the best central Moscow hotel. This low-key hotel in the center of town is ideal. Basmanny is an area in Moscow known for its chilled vibe and clean, safe streets.

14. Hotel Nikolsky Red Square

Just a five-minute walk to Moscow’s heart near the Kremlin and Red Square, this is where to stay in Moscow if you are short on time and don’t want to spend time commuting to the key sights.

15. Invite City House

This boutique hotel is where to stay in Moscow if you’re on a budget and want a simple room (breakfast included), but you are okay to take a subway ride to and from the city center.

More Cheap Hostels In Moscow

• City Hostel
• Godzillas Hostel
• Napoleon Hostel
• Good News Hostel

When choosing where to stay in Russia’s capital Moscow, comparing prices at various hotel search engines and booking apps is always important. Also, consider what Moscow is known for and try to stay close to the main attractions.

Thus, if you plan a trip to Moscow, I recommend using price-comparison search engines such as Booking.com or Ostrovok.ru.

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just on a practical note, there are no budget or 3* hotels close to the Kremlin.

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