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The compact but characterful and historic casco antiguo (old town) of Asturias’ civ­ilised capital is agreeably offset by elegant parks and busy, modern shopping streets to its west and north. Oviedo is a fun, sophisticated city, with a stash of intriguing sights, some excellent restaurants and a lively student population. Out on the periphery, the hum and heave of factories is a strong reminder that Oviedo is a major producer of textiles, weapons and food.

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Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Catedral de San Salvador

Oviedo's stunning cathedral complex was built mainly in Gothic and baroque styles between the 13th and 18th centuries. But its origins and greatest…

Palacio de Santa María del Naranco

On the slopes of Monte Naranco, 3.5km northwest of central Oviedo, this tall, narrow palace – built by Ramiro I (842–50), Alfonso II’s successor…

Museo Arqueológico de Asturias

Partly within a restored 16th-century monastery, Asturias’ archaeology museum makes the most of the region’s archaeological riches through video and…

Iglesia de San Miguel de Lillo

A gem of Asturian pre-Romanesque architecture, this noble remnant of a 9th-century church perches peacefully on the slopes of Monte Naranco, 3.5km…

Museo de Bellas Artes de Asturias

Oviedo’s Fine Arts Museum, housed in two of the city’s finest palaces, spans the centuries with its large and rewarding collection, featuring work by…

Monumento al Sagrado Corazón

This 30m-high, 1981 stone sculpture of Christ, adorned with a large copy of Asturias’ Cruz de la Victoria (Cross of Victory), crowns Oviedo’s Monte…

Iglesia de San Julián de los Prados

This early pre-Romanesque masterpiece was constructed during the reign of Alfonso II (AD 791–842). Beyond its portico and graceful pair of porches, you'll…

Plaza de la Constitución

Flanked by stately 16th- and 17th-century architecture and a few cafes, this lovely plaza sits near the heart of Oviedo's historic centre.

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Principality of Asturias

The former Ovetum has been closely linked to the Asturian monarchy since its foundation (8th century), and even became the capital of the Kingdom. This fact has left an unquestionable medieval flavour in the historic quarter, which in modern times has been given a carefully-considered urban layout which is easy to move around.

An exceptional starting point to approach examples of pre-Romanesque art with World Heritage status, the coastline of the Costa Verde, incredible natural landscapes for all kinds of sports and, of course, a first-class gastronomic culture.

A pedestrian historic quarter makes strolling in Oviedo a pleasure, from the University to the Cathedral, and from the palace of the Marquis of San Félix to the Camposagrado. A walk littered with statues which appear on the pavements on sites of historic importance. To take a rest, there are a great many squares and small squares filled with chigres (cider bars). The tower of Oviedo's Cathedral marks the starting point of any tour of the provincial capital. Built in the flamboyant Gothic style, its tower, rose window and entrance portico guard the greatest symbols of Asturias. The chapel of San Miguel, or Cámara Santa, houses the Holy Chest, the Cross of los Ángeles and the Cross of la Victoria, relics also visited by the pilgrims heading for the holy city of Santiago de Compostela. These symbols appear on the coats of arms of both Oviedo and the Principality of Asturias. In the cathedral area we can see examples of some of the most significant buildings in Oviedo: the church of San Tirso, the Fine Arts Museum or the Archaeological Museum , these latter two housed in the former Velarde Palace and the convent of San Vicente. Given the impossibility of preserving a great many architectural features and sculptures in the pre-Romanesque style (8 th - 10 th centuries) in their places of origin, in buildings scattered among the valleys, mountains and small villages, pieces from these churches can be found in the Archaeological Museum. In this way, we can cover the entire history of art in Asturias from the Bronze Age, as well as seeing prehistoric, Roman, Visigothic and Romanesque collections. The innovative pre-Romanesque style of Asturias, a precursor to the Romanesque and Gothic styles, is a heritage unique to these lands. Oviedo itself provides the opportunity to take in some of the most significant buildings, such as Santa María del Naranco, San Miguel de Lillo and San Julián de los Prados, all of them National Monuments. These temples and palaces, along with Santa Cristina de Lena, la Cámara Santa and la Foncalada (a medieval fountain) have been given World Heritage status by UNESCO. The city of Oviedo is made up of interesting squares which help us to get around the city. The Cathedral square leads us to the square of Alfonso II the Chaste, which gathers together the palaces of Valdecarzana and la Rúa. In Cimadevilla , the oldest part of the historic quarter, we will find the unusual plaza de Trascorrales, which houses the former exchange, and Constitution Square. The 18 th -century City Hall building and the church of San Isidoro stand here. And next door, the arcaded Fontán Square, a name also given to the old iron and glass market. The coloured houses which stand on this square also give on to the lively square of Daoíz y Velarde. A great many porches open out onto this area serving natural cider. The University of Oviedo can be considered the last building in the historic quarter before arriving at the New Districts . Its plateresque façade, from the 16 th century, gives way to a cloister which hosts any number of cultural events throughout the year. The nearby façades of the palaces of Toreno and Camposagrado are worth a visit. Starting from this point is the Oviedo of the late 19 th century, around the plaza de la Escandalera and the Campo de San Francisco park. Gathered here are the Regional Palace, headquarters of the Principality's governing body, the Caja de Asturias building and the old Banco Herrero. All of them built in a “frenchified” style. Also close by you will find the Campoamor Theatre, where each year the Príncipe de Asturias awards ceremony is held. The Modern Arts Centre is also to be found here. Continuing along calle Uría takes you to Oviedo's main shopping area. Taking one of the side streets, Gil de Jaz, leads you to the old Provincial Hospice (18 th century), today the site of the luxurious Hotel Reconquista. At any point on a tour of Oviedo we can sample the region's gastronomy . Our tasting must include Cabrales, Vidiago or Gamonedo cheeses, Asturian fabes (haricot beans), pixin (monkfish), seafood or "carne gobernada" (stewed meat). For dessert the choice is enormous: rice pudding, frixuelos (a kind of crêpe), almond cake... Oviedo, located in the centre of Asturias, provides easy access to the entire province via a variety of routes. Eastern Asturias boasts fishing villages such as Lastres and summer resorts with a strong historic flavour such as Ribadesella and Llanes, on the so-called Costa Verde (Green Coast). Almost in Cantabria, Colombres preserves the legacy of the Spaniards made good in America. The intricate orography of the eastern interior gives us treasures such as the Picos de Europa National Park and Cangas de Onís, a place closely linked to the history of Asturias. Not forgetting emblematic Gijón, whose Parador de Turismo is housed in an old mill, Villaviciosa, or to the south of the province, the Redes Nature Reserve. The Western coast , until the the border with Galicia, offers us seafaring villages such as Candás and Luanco, beautiful beaches such as Salinas and towns spread between the sea and the mountains, such as Cudillero. All are ideal places to try the seafood from the Cantabrian. Lighthouses and cliffs form the profile of the coastline in Luarca, Navia and Tapia de Casariego, between kilometres of beaches. The western interior will take us to fascinating historic quarters like those of Grado or Salas, prehistoric caves such as Peña de Candamo, or landscapes where popular architecture merges with the natural surroundings, as in the area of los Oscos. The Somiedo Nature Reserve and the Muniellos Biological Reserve are testimony to the natural and environmental wealth of Asturias. And all of them are ideal for doing environment-friendly sports. Routes where we can see hórreos (square raised granaries made of wood and standing on smooth stone legs with a tiled roof to keep food dry) or Nabob architecture (exotic mansions built by Asturias natives made good in the Americas) are just some of the many options. A branch of the Piligrim's Route to Santiago de Compostela, the so-called Northern Road , runs along the entire coast of Asturias, from Colombres to Tapia de Casariego. While Oviedo is also linked to León and Lugo. A tour which brings us closer to the culture of Asturias and its influence on the Piligrim's Route to Santiago de Compostela through its churches and pilgrims' hospitals. The Cider Route , focusing on the region's emblematic drink, covers an area in which apple trees flood the landscape, where we can visit factories, lagares (the presses for extracting the juice from the apples) and the Nava Cider Museum. Those interested in the mining industry of Asturias can tour the Nalón and Caudal vallies for a closer look at the unusual industrial landscapes. The Mining Museum is in El Entrego, where the visitor can see the reconstruction of a mine. Mieres also has also been marked by mining. Nearby are the Sanctuary of the Mártires de Valdecuna and, in Pola de Lena, the pre-Romanesque church of Santa Cristina, a gem of Asturian art.

What to visit

Select from the list or hover over the map to find out about points of interest.

San Francisco Park

Asturias Museum of Fine Arts

San Tirso Church

La Foncalada

Oviedo Cathedral

Santa María de Bendones Church

Santa María del Naranco Church

Asturias Archeological Museum

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How To Spend a Weekend in Oviedo, Spain: Things To Do in Asturias’ Chilled-Out Capital

Home » Destinations » Europe » Spain » How To Spend a Weekend in Oviedo, Spain: Things To Do in Asturias’ Chilled-Out Capital

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Updated: 7th January 2023

Cradled in the verdant hills of northern Spain’s Asturias region, Oviedo is a pretty, peaceful and mainly pedestrianised city break. Not only do the mountain backdrops dazzle, but so do the streets – this is regarded as Spain’s cleanest city.

If you’re seeking a city in Spain to rush around and visit countless sights, this isn’t the one. But, if you want a laid-back city break with a couple of museums, a different culture to the country’s south, and excellent food and drink, you’re on to a winner.

From hearty fabada stews to indulgent cachopo , the regional dishes impress. You can also expect the more than 40 kinds of cheese and local sidra to feature heavily during your weekend, too – this is the Spanish capital of cider, after all.

Here’s how to spend a long weekend in Oviedo, Spain.

In this article...

Arrival: Friday night

My suggestions for this weekend in Oviedo are based on a Friday night arrival, and either a Sunday departure, or with an extra day for a side trip, extending your visit to Oviedo into a long weekend. All suggestions should work with the varied opening hours; however, it’s always best to check closing times (and remember Spain’s afternoon siestas) in advance.

If after check-in at your hotel – see my suggestion here – you’re looking for something low-energy to do this first evening, then it’s worth checking out the Campoamor Theatre’s programme. This stunning space is home to Spain’s second-oldest opera and certainly makes for a cultured start to your weekend in Oviedo.

Day one: things to do in Oviedo

After grabbing a lazy breakfast – Carbayones, a local egg and almond pastry, make for a sweet start to the day – dive into Spain’s art scene.

Morning: See Fine Art at the Museo de Bellas Artes de Asturias

Free | Closed Monday | Accessibility: adapted access to parts of the museum | Website

Encompassing three different buildings – two of which are heritage – this Fine Arts museum holds an array of some 15,000 pieces. For a regional museum, it’s mighty impressive and brags one of Spain’s best collections.

Works from famous masters such as Goya, Picasso and Dalí are on display, along with regional artists who you may not be familiar with. If you want to tour all three buildings, this will likely fill your whole morning. The museum closes for lunch at 2 pm.

Lunch: El Fontán, Cheese and Moscovitas

A short walk from the Fine Arts Museum is Plaza de El Fontán, a perfect place to enjoy lunch.

Before sitting down to enjoy some local delicacies, it’s well worth taking a little stroll around Mercado El Fontán. The market closes at 3 pm on Saturdays, and it’s shut all day Sunday, so align your timings.

While it’s not the largest market, you’ll see the full range of Asturias cheeses and local specialities. It’s a good place to pick up items to take home, such as the beloved native white runner beans. If you want to take some cheese away, it’s better to ask for a wedge of the larger wheels or blocks and have this vacuum packed. They are usually of better quality than the small, individual wheels.

Next door to the market is El Fontán square. Both inside the courtyard and around the 18th-century building, where trees and a bright-yellow facade create a postcard-perfect view, you’ll find places to enjoy a typical lunch. For a pricey sweet treat afterwards, head to Rialto and pick up a box of moscovitas , a local biscuit.

Afternoon: Self-guided statue-focused walking tour

Oviedo is a city of statues. There are around 100 outside figures dotted around the city. From busts and bums to notable figures, the sculptures provide something of a walking tour. So, keep your eyes peeled as you explore the city.

You’ll also want to keep an ear out for the Gaita asturiana . On the weekends, walking bands often play this local bagpipe-style instrument, adding a typical soundtrack to the city.

From El Fontán, head to Plaza de la Constitución. Flanked by the impressive Town Hall, it’s one of many pretty squares in the city. If you want to research some day trip ideas, you’ll also find the Asturias tourist office (which closes at 5 pm). From here, continue to Plaza del Paraguas, and just behind, you can spot the remains of Oviedo’s medieval walls.

Returning to Plaza de la Catedral (where the Fine Arts museum was), take a peek inside the Cathedral of San Salvador of Oviedo. Personally, I find the ornate details on the outside the prettiest.

From the square, it’s a straight road to San Francisco Park. This green lung in the centre of the city is worth a stroll, and you’ll find one of the city’s most beloved statues here, Mafalda, an Argentinian cartoon character. Being one of the first city’s in the world to be nearly fully pedestrianised in its core, strolling Oviedo’s streets is a real joy.

Evening: Sidrería Tierra Astur, followed by more cider!

Even if you aren’t a fan of cider ( sidra locally), it would be criminal not to try it in Oviedo. Chigre (cider houses in Asturian) are dotted around the city, ranging from the typical to the funkier. One of the latter is Sidrería Tierra, a local chain with a few spots. I’d suggest the El Vasco branch for the most surreal experience.

I didn’t think Oviedo’s love for cider had any surprises left for me until entering this bar-cum-restaurant constructed from literal cider. With around 100 staff rushing around, cider being poured from a high with droplets landing on the sawdust-covered floor, and some 18,000 bottles decorating the place – with even more chilling in the streams running through the dim-lit venue, there is a LOT going on!

Cheese is a prominent feature on the menu, and there are plenty of other local and hearty dishes. But, let’s be honest, this is a place you come for the sidra and spectacle rather than first-class grub.

In these bars, the natural cider is uncarbonated, then expertly poured from high by an escanciador . This style of pour helps add air to the beverage as it hits the glass. Only a small amount is poured at a time and needs to be drunk instantly while the bubbles are still forming. It’s fun, traditional and very entertaining – but it takes some getting use to waiting for a new pour every time you want a sip

To continue the party into the early hours, head to Calle Gascona. Known as the “Cider Boulevard” you won’t miss it – partly due to the giant wooden keg, but also the loud atmosphere.

Day two: things to do in Oviedo

Sunday’s focus is all about stepping back in time. Discover some of Oviedo’s oldest UNESCO treasures, and get beyond the city limits and into the green exterior.

Morning: Visit the Archaeological Museum of Asturias

Free | Closed Monday and Tuesday | Accessibility: on foot only | Website

Start your day at the interactive archaeological museum (it’s closed Sunday afternoons) and learn about Oviedo’s UNESCO World Heritage Site before visiting them later in the day.

Focused entirely on Asturian archaeology, the museum isn’t the biggest, but there’s more than enough to see across the three floors. The collection of archaeological discoveries is well presented, and the setting, inside a former 16th-century monastery, adds a nice touch to the displays.

Spanning from pre-history until more recent times, the interactive elements add a nice touch to submerge you in history. The areas focused on the World Heritage Sites are particularly interesting, especially as a reference point if you visit the pre-Romanesque churches during your visit.

Lunch: Typical dishes at La Corte de Pelayo

One of my favourite restaurants in the city; I always make sure to enjoy a meal at La Corte de Pelayo whenever I return. While it’s a big dining space, it’s well-established and popular, so you may want to book a table in advance.

Here are a few dishes you’ll want to order to get a taste of Asturia.

Start with the Fabada asturiana, a typical stew from the region. This hearty dish is based on the famed local beans, which, as you may have seen at the market, command a premium price tag. They are then topped with meat, such as morcilla and pancetta.

I find this dish tootoo heavy as a main course, and I like that it’s offered as a smaller starter version here. The meat also comes on a separate plate for you to add, so if you’re vegetarian, I’d assume it’s not hard to ask for the dish sin carne .

For the second course, take the cachopo. For this dish, two veal steaks are stuffed with cheese and ham and then coated in breadcrumbs before frying. Is it healthy? Not really, but it sure tastes good. Opt for an Asturian wine if you want to pair the meal with a local drink that isn’t cider. The reds from Cangas are particularly good, and for an aromatic digestive, try the local Licor de Hierbas.

Afternoon: See the pre-Romanesque monuments

Free | Entry requires a paid tour, only available certain days | Website

On the city limits – heading towards greener pastures and the slopes of Mount Naranco – well-preserved Catholic temples provide an in situ expansion on the archaeological museum. It will take around 45 minutes to walk here, or you could hop a taxi or use the city A-C bus most of the way.

These pre-Romanesque churches are still standing proud, telling an over 1000-year-old story. While you can’t enter without a guide, you can study the facades and exterior. Heavy restoration work and reconstruction have taken place, and these are just two of the sites which make up the World Heritage-listed locations of what was once the Kingdom of Asturias.

The larger of the two, and the first you’ll arrive at, is Santa María la Real del Naranco. Impressive – for the design and distant Cantabrian Mountains background – the building was completed in 842, initially to serve as a palace.

A short walk beyond, and you’ll come to the equally as old but slightly smaller San Miguel de Lillo. On tip-toes, you can peer in the window and see some of the internal wall decorations in the space that was once King Ramiro I’s chapel. Above, the typical triple-arched windows are visible, so treasured they now form one of the modern-day logos of the Asturias region.

Day three: day trips from Oviedo

Once you’ve explored the city, soaked up the sidra , and spotted all the statues, make the most of your third day by exploring another part of Asturias to wrap up your long weekend in Oviedo.

Option one: the coast – Gijón

Gijón, around 30-minutes from Oviedo, is an easy day trip if you want to get to the beach. While lounging on the sands is great, there are also a few sights you could take in during your visit.

Admire the city’s Art Nouveau architecture, venture underground to the old Roman Baths, or even visit the Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura, Spain’s largest building with a difficult past.

Find some suggestions of what to do in Gijón here .

Option two: the cider and cheese – Cabrales

Asturias’s gastronomy is particularly famed for two things – cheese and sidra .

An ideal day trip from Oviedo is to go and discover them both in the verdant countryside if you have a car. While it is possible to do this by bus (with a change in Villanueva), it might be complex and lengthy as a day trip.

First, head to the caves of the Cabrales cheese – it’s around 90 minutes each way. This is one of the region’s most expensive and typical blue cheeses, though the strong flavour won’t be for everyone. In Las Arenas, you’ll find the Cueva del Queso de Cabrales museum. Here, you’ll walk through the production method and be taken inside the caves for a tasting of this award-winning blue cheese, still produced by rural farmers until this day. Be sure to check times and book ahead.

On the return, call in at a small cider-producing house – sorry, designated driver. Sidrería El Pareón is a good stop and only a slight detour off the AS-114.

Option three: the countryside – Las Ubiñas

The lush and verdant Asturian countryside is a delight to explore, and if you want to reconnect with nature, it’s easily done.

My favourite getaway is the Picos de Europa national park. This rugged and remote mountain range is one of the most impressive in Europe, however, it may be difficult as a day trip. There are a few guided tours to the park – such as Covadonga Lakes – but be prepared for a long day.

For something a little closer, venture to Las Ubiñas. Car is easiest, but there are some access points by bus from Oviedo, such as Las Ventas.

Inside the nature park, expect jagged peaks, incredible panoramas, and blissful hiking trails. Home to some particular species – such as brown bears – the habitat is pristine and protected.

When to visit Oviedo, Spain

Having visited Oviedo in spring, summer and autumn and had surprisingly decent weather and good visits each time, I’d say it’s a nearly year-round destination. However, this is northern Spain, so I suggest avoiding the winter when showers can be more common, especially as much of Oviedo’s appeal is outside. That said, if you just want to eat and drink well, it’s a good city break any time of year.

Summer in Oviedo is also much more pleasant than in the south of Spain, where temperatures soar from June to August, and with many locals flocking to the coast, the city isn’t too overrun or hot to enjoy.

Where to stay in Oviedo, Spain

Having stayed in both mid-range and more upmarket accommodation over the years, here are a couple of my suggestions.

Budget(ish) – Duerming Longoria Plaza Hotel Oviedo doesn’t have too much budget accommodation, but this spot is pretty affordable for a private room in a decent location. I stayed here on my first visit to Oviedo, and the fair prices and clean rooms make it a reliable pick.

Mid-range – Gran Hotel España This hotel far exceeds the price. Great value, especially if you can get one of the top floor rooms with a little balcony – ideal for a sunny day. Modern and well-decorated rooms with coffee machines, a decent hotel breakfast, and a small lounge bar. I was very happy here on my most recent visit.

Luxury – Barceló Oviedo Cervantes I haven’t stayed at this Barceló, but their hotels have always delivered great service, clean and well-designed rooms, and a calming atmosphere in other cities, so I’m sure this is a great pick if you want a more premium stay.

How to get to and around Oviedo, Spain

Oviedo’s centre is pretty compact and flat, so exploring on foot is the way to go. You can also walk out to the out-of-city churches, although this is quite the stroll – the city’s bus network can reduce that walking time significantly.

Travelling to Oviedo by train and public transport

If you’re coming to Asturias from elsewhere in Spain , then the train service is likely the best connection for your weekend in Oviedo. Buses are also a decent alternative. From Madrid, the journey by train takes around 4-5 hours on Renfe’s high-speed rail service, with direct connections, although sometimes a change in

Train tickets, especially for long-distance journeys, which you should book in advance, can be made directly on the Renfe website (usually cheaper) using one of the popular and best travel apps , such as Omio . ALSA is the leading bus company for intercity travel in Spain, and the journey from Madrid takes around the same time and provides an alternative.

BlaBlaCar , a car-share service (where you book a spare seat in the car of someone already making a journey), is also very popular in Spain and worth checking out if you struggle to find a direct connection from your starting point.

Travelling to Oviedo by plane

The nearest airport to Oviedo is Asturias Airport, a 40 minute journey by bus from the city. Currently, there are limited flights from this airport, including from London, however the schedules have been growing rapidly each year.

Travelling to Oviedo flight free from the UK

If you want to visit Northern Spain from the UK without flying, you have two options. Though personally, I suggest with this type of journey you plan to spend at least 7 days in Spain to make this trip worthwhile.

The first is to take the Eurostar to London, and from there, the train to Bayonne. To cross from France to Spain, you can opt for a two bus connection via Bilbao (likely slightly cheaper). You can expect this route to take around 16-hours if timed well.

An alternative is to take the ferry from the UK, operated by Brittany Ferries, either departing Portsmouth or Plymouth (though some sailings are only in summer), and arriving in Santander or Bilbao. Both journeys involve two nights aboard the ship. From either arrival point, you can continue by car if driving, pick up a rental car , or take an ALSA bus, which will take between two and four hours.

If returning the same way, you might want to consider spending a night in San Sebastian before sailing back, another enchanting coastal destination with one of the best culinary scenes in the county.

Where to travel after Oviedo

After your weekend in Oviedo, it’s easy to continue your journey to Gijon on the Asturian coast, head south to the architecture-studded city of León , or take the train to one of the many other best places to visit in Spain .

This article was written following my #SpainByTrain trip in autumn 2022 in partnership with Spain Tourism and Asturias Tourism .

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What to do in Oviedo Spain for a Weekend? Complete Guide to a Perfect City Break!

Posted on Last updated: April 17, 2020

When I told a Spanish friend I’d be travelling to Oviedo in Northern Spain for the weekend (as part of the #SpainCities blogger project) he asked me ‘ why? ‘ and told me that this place would be the very last on his list of places to visit in his home country. When someone responds like that, it’s easy to be disappointed and lose the initial enthusiasm you had when hearing you would be visiting this destination.

We always love a good challenge here at The Travel Tester and strongly believe that every place in the world has its own beauty, if you know where to look for it. We cannot judge a place without walking its streets ourselves, meeting the locals and seeing with our own eyes if it’s worth visiting or not.

There are so many people that love certain cities in my home country The Netherlands that I would never ever recommend to anyone… yet somehow when an outsider looks at your country, they often surprise you with what they can find.

So please join me in this challenge and see the Spanish city of Oviedo through the eyes of an open-minded traveller and let’s see what amazing experiences we can find together!

To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries  – Aldous Huxley  

ONE DAY IN OVIEDO, SPAIN ITINERARY

Short Introduction to Oviedo in Asturias, Spain

It is believed that the Asturias region of Spain (in the Northwest) has been inhabited for millennia by the Celts, but this area shaped in its current form since the 722 Muslim reconquest of the country. According to legend, a certain Don Pelayo saw the Virgin Mary appear and got inspired to fight the Moors, resulting to him being the first king of Asturias. The region soon became a refuge for the nobility until the Peninsula was once again under Christian rule.

The Asturian culture is largely based on its celtic origins (yes, they go wild on the bagpipes, if you can believe it) and the region is also known for its literature and theatre.

The capital of the region, Oviedo, is located in the center of the region, about 45 minutes drive south of the ocean. It’s a medium-sized old town with about 200.000 inhabitants. The city has some of the oldest Christian buildings in Spain, but when you look closely, you’ll also see the impact of much more recent historical events around the city, like the Spanish Civil War.

Oviedo became perhaps a little more known to people from outside of Spain when Woody Allen directed his film “Vicky Cristina Barcelona” in 2008. The movie was shot all around Oviedo as being a neighbourhood in Barcelona and spending time here made Woody fall in the love with the place.

“ … a delicious, exotic, beautiful, clean, pleasant, tranquil and pedestrianised city, like it didn’t belong to this world, like it didn’t exist…Oviedo is like a fairy tale ” – Woody Allen

MORNING IN OVIEDO

When I tell my tour guide Noelia that I only have one whole day in Oviedo, want to see as much as possible, eat all the regional specialties, LOVE cider and don’t plan on having a break during the day, her eyes light up and she rubs her hands together in excitement.

“I love my city, I love people and I love my job, so you’ll have a great time. Just tell me when I talk too much!”… and off we went on a whirlwind tour of all the good things Oviedo has to offer. Here is an overview of most of the things we saw:

Walk around World Heritage Sites

Oviedo was founded in AD 761, when two monks built a church dedicated to Saint Vincent of Saragossa. The city has many pre-Romanesque 9th century structures that survived miraculously over the years and it’s no wonder they are now World Heritage listed. It’s relatively easy to see most of them!

Included in this group of listed structures are the following churches:

Santa María del Naranco You can find this church on the slope of Mount Naranco. I wouldn’t suggest hiking up here, as it will take you forever, but drive with your car or call a taxi to do this.

The King of Asturias, Ramiro I, ordered this building to be built as a royal palace as part of a larger complex that also incorporated the nearby church of San Miguel de Lillo, 100 meters uphill the mountain. It was completed in 848.

When you walk around the structure, or have a look inside (you need to pay for entrance and might have to wait a bit before the caretaker comes around), it’s almost impossible to imagine how they were able to build such a detailed building so many years ago. The arched roof, all made out of stone is possible the most incredible. Where did they get the knowledge to do this so well?

The palace was converted into a church at the end of the 13th century and all of the surrounding buildings were torn down over time, so you won’t really know just how big it was, but it’s impressive nevertheless.

The church seems very small, and you’re right. it originally had a basilica ground plan with three aisles and a barrel vault. Unfortunately, part of the original structure has disappeared as the building collapsed during the 12th or 13th century.

Santa Cristina de Lena This is the only Unesco site that I didn’t manage to visit, but I’ve inclued some photos from other people below. This Roman Catholic pre-Romanesque church is located about 25 km south of Oviedo, on an old Roman road that joined the lands of the plateau with Asturias.

The church has a different ground plan than a traditional basilica, with a single rectangular space with a barrel vault and four adjoining structures located in the centre of each facade.

Foto Credit :  Ángel M. Felicísimo , CC BY-SA 2.0

Foto Credit :  Ángel M. Felicísimo ,  CC BY-SA 2.0

San Julián de los Prados I’ll be honest, when I arrived at ‘yet another church’ in Oviedo, I was interested, but to have a look on the inside wasn’t something I though necessary per sé. Well, that’s when a tour guide comes in handy and I’m glad mine made sure I did not miss out.

This church is from the beginning of the 9th century and one of the greatest works of Asturian architecture. While the building itself is quite interesting from the outside, the decorations on the inside are the ones that (as the young kids say these days) ‘will blow your mind’: it’s covered in frescoes painted in three layers and is decorated with architectural decoration that bears clear Roman influences.

Unfortunately I wasn’t allowed to take photos inside, but imagine looking at artwork that people from over 10 centuries have made and it’s not hard to understand why you will be quite impressed!

Camara Santa Camara Santa is the Spanish word for the ‘Holy chamber’, but this Roman Catholic pre-Romanesque church is also known as the chapel of St. Michael. It’s built right next to the pre-Romanesque Tower of San Miguel of the city’s cathedral.

The holy chamber was built in the 9th century as a palace chapel for the King and the church of San Salvador, which were both demolished in the 14th century to make place for the cathedral you can find here now.  Besides being a royal chapel, this chamber was also built to house the jewels and relics of the cathedral and the most interesting thing is that it still does so today, more than 1200 years later!!

On display are several treasures associated with the Kingdom of Asturias, such as crosses and boxes decorated with rare gems.

The only place where you can see the chamber from the outside is in a secret inner courtyard…

While you’re here, make sure to check out the cathedral:

The arch points you in the direction of Santiago de Compostela, how amazing is that?!

The oldest street art / grafitti I’ve ever seen! WOW!

The complete story of Christ, from his birth on the bottom to the resurrection on the top

Once a year, they bring out this wooden vessel for services

When money runs out and you can’t finish the windows…

When you’re walking the courtyard and need a pee (not a joke -heehee)

La Foncalada And finally, also on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Oviedo is this rare 9th century water supply system made up of a pond, a chapel and a water channel. This structure remains the only surviving civil architectural item for public use of the Early Middle Ages. If you look closely, you can see the  Victory Cross on the top, which is the symbol of Asturias.

I managed to tick this sight off at 2 am on my final night in Oviedo. Because, why not?

Visit the Old Quarter and the Mercado de Abastos del Fontán

With all the UNESCO sites crossed off your to-do list, it’s time to relax a bit and wander around the old town of Oviedo. You will see parts of the old city wall, a monastery where nuns still work, sing and bake cookies (they do know how to make friends!), lots of sculptures and plenty of adorable cobblestone streets.

Here is a bit of a photo impression:

The streets of Oviedo are SO clean!

The Theatre

Peek into Oviedo’s University Courtyard

The Old City Hall

There are many references to the pelgrims, as Oviedo is the starting point of a few routes!

You can even get a guided tour by a traditional Pilgrim!

Make sure to visit the lovely Fina, 88 years old and still happily working in her shop!

Part of the old city wall

This band is performing daily

Not to miss: Mercado El Fontan

Discover the many sculptures around the old town

Oviedo really is a city of sculptures. They can be spotted everywhere! The most famous is the one of Woody Allen, who loved the place so much that he filmed his movie “Vicky Christina Barcelona” here.

Read our post: 

20 Doors and Windows in Oviedo – Asturias, Spain

AFTERNOON IN OVIEDO

You’ve probably walked half a marathon by now, so let’s sit down for a bit and relax. Here’s a good place for a well-earned pit stop:

Have lunch at Restaurante El Fondin

If you’re looking for typical dishes from the Asturias region of Spain (with ingredients coming from the fresh market right next door) and a nice, relaxing place for lunch, then this is the place you want to get a spot at!

Read our post for a full review:

Restaurant El Fondin in Oviedo, Spain: Typical Asturian Market Food

Treat Yourself at Camilo de Blas

For a sweet treat, there are plenty of options in Oviedo. One place you should definitely not miss though, is the more than 100 years old sweets shop “Camilo de Blas”. Here, they sell the famous “Carbayones”, which is a typical Asturian sweet and actually, a specialty of Oviedo:

Walk around Parque San Francisco (San Francisco Park)

Ok, we’re not really getting that active of course, because you might not have much energy left for more walking! I can recommend (weather permitting) to relax a bit in this beautiful green park and stroll around the duck pond and see a couple more sculptures.

Rain? Then visit a museum instead! Here are two great options for you:

Fine Arts Museum of Asturias (FREE admission)

Housed within the 18th century Velarde Palace, this museum has the largest public collection of art in Asturias. There are over 8000 paintings, sculptures, drawings, engravings, photography and industrial art.

Because we wanted to visit at the end of the day, I was exhausted and so we skipped it, but it’s supposed to be a really good museum, so hope to come back one day and see the collection!

Archaeological Museum (FREE admission)

At the end of my day, I managed to squeeze in a bit of this incredible museum, but I recommend spending a bit more time then just 40 minutes here.

This museum is housed in what was once the 16th century Benedictine monastery of San Vicente and displays a variety of local prehistoric, pre-Romanesque and Romanesque artefacts, all spread out over three floors . There are mosaics, epigraphs and ceramics, as well as altar stones from the churches of San Miguel de Lillo and Santa Maria del Naranco.

While the signage in the museum was in Spanish, at reception they gave me an English guidebook which gives you extensive information about all the items in the museum, so I can definitely recommend getting that to enhance your visit.

EVENING IN OVIEDO

As you would expect in Spain, the evenings are long and people won’t go out for dinner until late. Both nights I was in Oviedo, I made it well past 1AM and there were TONS of people still up and about. For me, that made the city feel quite safe as well, because there were even families with kids still at the restaurants and on the streets.

You wouldn’t perhaps expect it with an old city such as Oviedo, but there were actually a whole lot of bars where you can drink, talk or dance the night away. Especially on the Saturday night, Oviedo was a city like any other!

At the local Irish Pub

Diario Roma – If you’re into the Golden Oldies!

Taste the local Cider

Asturias is known for its hard cider ( sidra in Spanish), so when you visit the region, make sure to visit a sidrería (cider house) for some authentic local atmosphere. Calle Gascona in Oviedo is known as “cider boulevard” and while a bit touristy, here you can sample some great local ciders.

The way cider is served in Asturias is a bit different than in the UK, where you basically get a glass filled to the brim (a clean  one, if you’re lucky) and pay half your monthly wages to then be allowed to drink it in a dark, smelly pub with a greasy carpet (oh yes!) on the floor. In Spain, however, drinking cider is an important social ritual. It involves pouring the cider from high above into the glass, to then be downed at once by the lucky guy or gal who paid about 2 Euros for a bottle.

They don’t let the cider get all dead in the glass, as the oxygen that gets into the glass through the pouring breaks  (as they call it) the cider and you get a good 20 seconds of pure bubbly pleasure. And that is even for a Spaniard worth stopping a conversation for.

Back in the days, it wasn’t just the bottle of cider that got shared between friends, even the glass went around. That is why you pour the last drops of your drink on the ground, so the glass gets cleaned and is ready to make the next person happy again.

We had cider the first night at restaurant “La Pumarada”, which had an amazingly friendly staff and great atmosphere and the second night at the “Tierra Astur” Ciderhouse. I liked the cider at both places, but there seemed to be a bit more of family atmosphere at the first restaurant (well, it’s run by father and son, so perhaps not so strange) and also a bit more attention for empty glasses, etc. But I had a good time AND amazing food at both!

Try more local specialties at Tierra Astur

I had such a good dinner at restaurant Tierra Astur, I can’t believe we literally just had cheese, cornbread and sweet pies, topped with lots and lots of cider… and that this was totally acceptable!

Read our post for the full review:

Restaurant Tierra Astur in Oviedo, Spain: Asturian Food and Cider Feast

OVIEDO RESOURCES

Here are some helpful resources to help you plan your trip to Oviedo.

Tourism Office Websites

• Asturias Tourism –  https://www.turismoasturias.es/en/home-en/
• Spain Tourism (about Oviedo) –  http://www.spain.info/nl/que-quieres/ciudades-pueblos/otros-destinos/oviedo.html

How to Get to Oviedo?

Which Hotels in Oviedo to Book?

During my two nights in Oviedo, I stayed at Hotel Fruela . This hotel is located in the center of the city, near to all the sights, so perfect if you’re here only for a short time. While it was not the most memorable hotel I ever stayed at, it was all very clean, friendly staff and the room was perfect, if only a little bit noisy through the walls of the next room. The breakfast was in a hotel across the street and consisted of fresh fruit, some yoghurts, juices and sweet rolls, all very simple, but enough as you’ll be eating LOADS during the rest of the day!

Website :  http://www.hotelfruela.com

Where to Eat in Oviedo?

Restaurants, Bars and Markets

• Restaurante El Fondin – Calle Fierro, 2, 33009 Oviedo
• Restaurante Sidrería Tierra Astur Gascona – Calle Gascona, 1, 33001 Oviedo
• Diario Roma Bar – Calle Mon, 11, 33003 Oviedo
• Pub Ca Beleño (Irish Pub) – Calle Martínez Vigil, 4, 33010 Oviedo
• Mercado El Fontan (Market) – Plaza 19 de Octubre, s/n, 33009 Oviedo

Looking for more food suggestions? Read our extensive post on local food from the Asturias region:  thetraveltester.com/local-food-asturias-spain

What to Do in Oviedo?

Here are links to all the places I visited during my weekend in Oviedo:

• Santa María del Naranco [ website ]
• San Miguel de Lillo [ website ]
• Santa Cristina de Lena [ website ]
• San Julián de los Prados [ website ]
• Camara Santa (+ cathedral) [ website ]
• La Foncalada [ website ]
• Mercado de Abastos del Fontán [ website ]
• Parque San Francisco [ website ]
• Fine Arts Museum of Asturias [ website ]
• Archaeological Museum [ website ]

Wondering what else to do in Oviedo? Here are some other great reads for you from my fellow blogger colleagues:

• Spain Snapshots: The Romanesque Churches of Oviedo [ Sunshine and Siestas ]
• The fairy tale begins in Oviedo [ Trip & Travel Blog ]
• Exploring Asturias – first stop Oviedo [ House of Anaïs ]
• From Oviedo with Love [ Young Adventuress ]
• Spain Tourist Attractions: Oviedo [ Travel2Next ]

For my Dutch readers, I’ve got a fun episode of the TV-show 3 op Reis, where Chris Zeegers shows you a bit of Oviedo and more of Asturias.

Watch the episode here :  3opreis.bnn.nl/afleveringen/347558

Wondering what else to do in Northern-Spain & Asturias? These bloggers have written some great guides for you:

• El Camino de Santiago: Go Your Own Way [ Urban Travel Blog ]
• Autonomous Community Spotlight: The Principality of Asturias [ Sunshine and Siestas ]
• Asturias in a nutshell [ House of Anaïs ]
• An Asturias Road Trip: Exploring Spain’s Northern Coast [ Sunshine and Siestas ]
• Sun, Sea, Sand… & Cider: Take Me To Asturias! [ Urban Travel Blog ]
• Life on the Camino; A Pilgrim’s Way [ Mallory on Travel ]
• The Camino Primitivo Podcast [ Indie Travel Podcast ]
• 5 Reasons to Go to Northern Spain [ Young Adventuress ]
• Asturias: Spain’s best-kept secret [ Young Adventuress ]

Wondering what else to do in other cities in Spain? Nine of my blogger friends have been part of this #SpainCities project and are writing guides to some amazing places as well! I can highly recommend to check them out:

Jessica – Bilbao //  Chloe –   Cadiz //  Sabina – Segovia //  Nicola – Cáceres //  Neil – Santiago //  Mark – Santander //  Ellie – Zaragoza //  Andrew – Girona //  Emily – Murcia

Looking to learn Spanish or Catelan? Check out this great guide by our blogging friend Michele from The Intrepid Guide:

theintrepidguide.com/common-spanish-phrases & theintrepidguide.com/useful-catalan-phrases-for-travellers

Disclaimer: I was hosted in Oviedo by the Spain Tourism Board as part of the #SpainCities blogger project organised by Traverse Events. All photos and opinions in this article are 100% my own.

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Wednesday 1st of March 2023

Thank you ! Oviedo looks very intersting !

Melanie Trethowan

Thursday 29th of November 2018

I am planning on walking the Camino San Salvador to Oviedo and from there on the Camino Primitivo to Santiago de Compostela. Your post has convinced me that I definitely need to schedule a rest day or two in this fascinating city! Many thanks, Mel

Tuesday 3rd of July 2018

Hi Nienke, My husband and I will be there at the end of August/early September for two nights and two days (before and after a week of hiking in Asturias). How do we find a great guide to show us the city/sites -- who do I contact? Thanks!!!

Nienke Krook

Thursday 2nd of August 2018

Hi Anne, I would contact the tourism board for help, you can find them at: https://www.turismoasturias.es/en/organiza-tu-viaje/oficinas-de-turismo/oficina-de-turismo-de-oviedo, they also have an office in Oviedo. Hope that helps you a bit! Have an amazing time in Oviedo!

Monday 18th of June 2018

Really enjoyed reading this article on Oviedo and its nice to see it highlighted as a place for travellers to visit. Its a real cultural delight with all the UNESCO world heritage sites. There's so much history to discover. So many people think Spain is all about sunshine and siestas, so its refreshing to see an article that features its real history. Thank you

Thanks Solhop, that's really nice to hear!

Friday 11th of May 2018

Hi Nienke, I enjoyed your article on Oviedo - I am visiting there tomorrow so look forward to seeing some of the sights you recommend. However I do think you may have been visiting the wrong type of pubs in England :/

Thursday 7th of June 2018

I hope you had an amazing time Neil, and that the weather was good! And the pubs, haha, I think so, but so far most of them have carpet, which I still think is totally gross :)

How to Get to Oviedo and What to Do There

Oviedo is a little-explored but fantastic city  close to the north coast of Spain , in the region of Asturias. It's famous for its cider, cheese, fabada bean stew, pre-Romanesque churches, and for being a good jump-off point for getting to the Picos de Europa.

How to Get There

Not as far from the popular destinations of San Sebastian and Madrid as Galicia , Asturias offers a great taste of 'green Spain' without having to travel as far.

The nearest airport to Oviedo is Asturias airport, which is mainly served by domestic flights, though there are flights to Lisbon and London. Santander is the next nearest airport, which has a few international flights offered by Ryanair.

The bus from Madrid to Oviedo takes around five-and-a-half hours. There are a few trains a day, but they're not much quicker and cost three times as much.

Suggested Itineraries

There' s lots to see en route from Madrid to Oviedo, the most obvious cities being Salamanca - famous for its beautiful Plaza Mayor - and Leon, one of the top tapas destinations in Spain .

Note that there is no direct train from Salamanca, so consider going via Segovia, if you haven't already been on a day trip from Madrid .

The quickest and cheapest way to get from Leon to Oviedo is by bus. There are buses throughout the day, run by ALSA. The journey takes around one-a-half-hours.

There are a few trains each day from Leon to Oviedo. The journey takes just over two hours. Book train tickets from   Rail Europe.

The 125km journey from Leon to Oviedo takes about one-and-a-quarter hours by car. Follow the AP-66 and A-66 roads. Note that some of these roads are toll roads. You can hire a car to get you there.

From Bilbao

The main RENFE train network doesn't cover this route. You can take the scenic route by taking the FEVE local train service, but this takes at best 7h30 (and still requires a change in Santander). 

The bus from Bilbao to Oviedo takes between 3h30 and five hours, depending on the time of day you travel.

The 300km from Bilbao to Oviedo can be covered in about three hours, driving mainly on the A-8 roads. Consider a stop in Santander to break up your journey.

From Santiago de Compostela

Buses from Santiago to Oviedo take four hours. There are no direct trains.

An interesting scenic route is to take a bus up to Ferrol and then take the narrow-gauge railway to Oviedo, perhaps stopping along the way at Playa de las Catedrales , often described as the most beautiful beach in Spain.

From Salamanca

The bus is your only good public transport option. If you're happy driving in Spain, that would be your quickest option. They take five hours.

There are no direct trains between Salamanca and Oviedo. A good recommendation would be to visit Segovia and take the train from there. 

Best Time to Visit

Oviedo's main festival is San Mateo in the third week of September, with the two most important days being Dia de America on the 19th and the Dia de San Mateo on the 21st.

Number of Days to Spend (Excluding Day Trips)

One day is enough, though the cider may give you a hangover that requires a second day to recover! But Oviedo is an ideal base for day trips to the stunningly beautiful surrounding area.

Things to Do

• The pre-Romanesque Churches of San Miguel de Lillo and Santa Maria del Naranco. Built upon the hillside, you can walk, but you might prefer to take a bus from near the train station (no 10) or get a taxi.
• Eat, drink, and be merry. Asturias is sidra (cider) country, a fact that is forced down your throat on c/Gascona - which has Bulevar de Sidra (Cider Boulevard) in lights above the street. To go with it, try chorizo a la sidra or Fabada bean stew.
• The pedestrianized city center with a pleasant enough cathedral.

The twin delights of the villages of Covadonga and Cangas de Ovis are the most popular ways to get good views of the Picos de Europa mountain range, though pick any village to the east and you won't be disappointed. Similarly, the quickest way to the stunning coastline is to go to Gijón, though a little exploration will reward you greatly.

Where to Next?

Go east along the coast to Bilbao (perhaps via Santander), west to Galicia, or south to Madrid via Leon and Salamanca.

Distance to Oviedo

• From Barcelona  900km - 9h20 by car, 12h by train, 13hrs by bus, 1h20 flight
• From Seville  775km - 10h by car, no direct train, 12h30 by bus, 1h30 flight
• From Madrid  450km - 5h by car, 6h30 by train, 5h by bus, 1h flight

Getting Around

The bus and train stations are virtually side by side. If you're arriving by train, head straight out the door and walk down Oviedo's main street, c/Uria. If you're arriving by bus, turn right out of the station, walk to the train station and join c/Uria from there.​

After walking through the main shopping area of Oviedo, c/Uria ends - take the road in front of you (c/Jesus) which takes you to the Iglesia de San Isidro in Plaza de la Constitución. Walk through the Plaza and continue down to Plaza del Sol - turn left and head up to the Cathedral. Once you've seen that, keep walking and you will arrive at c/Gascona, which is the self-titled "Bulevar de la Sidra" (Cider Boulevard).

If you plan on visiting the monuments on Monte Naranco, you'll need to return to the train station. Near the station on c/Uria is a bus stop - the no.10 takes you right to the monuments and leaves once an hour. If you miss it, you  could  walk it, but it would be easier to take a taxi up and then walk down.

Before you leave, don't forget to check out the plaza  on top  of the train station - an interesting mix of multicolored old buildings and Tetris-inspired modern ones.

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19 Regions and Islands of Spain: From Worst to Best

Plan the Perfect Trip to Spain

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Guide to Bus and Train Travel in Spain

How to Travel From Seville to Cordoba by Train, Bus, and Car

Best Internal Flights in Spain

How to Get From Madrid to Toledo by Train, Bus, and Car

How to Travel From Madrid to Leon by Train, Bus, Car, and Plane

Visiting Santiago de Compostela in Spain

The 11 Best Beaches in Spain

How to Get to Merida in Spain and What to Do There

How to Get to France From Barcelona and Other Spanish Cities

Spain's Must-See Sights and Attractions: City by City

Explore Oviedo

Plan Your Trip to Oviedo: Best of Oviedo Tourism

Essential oviedo.

Oviedo Is Great For

Cultural Tours

Theme parks

• Barceló Oviedo Cervantes
• Castillo del Bosque La Zoreda
• Eurostars Hotel de la Reconquista
• Hotel Soho Boutique Oviedo
• Eurostars Palacio de Cristal
• Mesón El Viso
• Pichote La Sidreria
• Casa Fermin
• Restaurante Casa El Gaiterin
• Sidreria El Gato Negro
• Santa Maria del Naranco
• San Francisco Park
• Catedral de San Salvador de Oviedo
• Monte Naranco
• Museo de Bellas Artes de Asturias
• Tour from Oviedo and Gijón to Covadonga lakes & sailors villages
• Northern Spain Tour in private 8 - 15 days Spanish English
• Excursion to Lakes of Covadonga and Cangas de Onís from Oviedo
• Taste of the Camino de Santiago
• Hiking, eating and relaxing in an 18th century Spa near Oviedo

Visit Oviedo, Spain; a travel guide to the attractive city of Oviedo

Oviedo is in the capital of the province of Asturias in the Asturias and Cantabria region of Spain.

Oviedo is an attractive university city with a historic old quarter.

Explore Oviedo

Oviedo is one of the most attractive cities in the north of Spain. Its old quarter is pedestrianised making its exploration a real pleasure. Oviedo has had a wealthy history and has quite a number of monuments worth seeing as you explore.

Many of the buildings are made of a warm yellow stone and so its narrow streets and little squares are always welcoming and invite further exploration. There are plenty of bars and restaurants dotted around and also the traditional 'chigres' or cider bars.

As it is a university city Oviedo also has a lively night scene though it is quieter in summer when the students leave for the holidays.

The Plaza Alfonso II is the heart of the old town and around its edges are several palaces and Oviedo's Gothic cathedral.

Part of the cathedral is the Camara Santa, also known as the Chapel of San Miguel, this dates back to the 9th century (though largely remodelled in the 12th) and houses the Holy Chest, the cross of los Angeles and the cross of La Vitoria.

A visit to these is part of the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. The Camara Santa de Oviedo is a UNESCO World Heritage site along with its pre-Romanesque churches and the medieval fountain, la Foncalada.

La Foncalada is a 9th century fountain and is the only example of Pre-Romanesque civil architecture in Europe.

Near the cathedral are a number of palaces which are often now used as civic buildings.

Oviedo's star historic attractions are its three small churches which are in a Pre-Romanesque style unique in Spain to this part of Asturias because it is one of the few areas of Spain that was not invaded by the Moors during this period (early 9th century). Non of these are in the centre of town.

The Santa Maria del Naranco is the best of the three. The Pre-Romanesque style is a very graceful style and the Santa Maria del Naranco has tall slender arches and columns decorated with rope-effects typical of the style. It is a 45 minute walk from the centre but worth the trouble. The Santa Maria was originally a hunting lodge and was later converted into a church.

Nearby is the chapel of King Ramiro's palace - the San Migueil de Lillo It is thought to be by the same architect as the Santa Maria. Look particularly at the window grilles carved from blocks of limestone, and the carved door frames.

The San Julian de los Prados is the largest of the three churches (and the closest - a 10 min walk) and still contains some of the frescoes that once covered the whole of the inside.

Oviedo has a number of museums including the Museo Arquelogico which is housed in an 8th century monastery behind the cathedral and contains local sculptures and treasures. The Museo d Bellas Artes is in an 18th century palace and so is a good opportunity to see inside one of the palaces. It also houses a range of Asturian and Spanish paintings.

Woody Allen fans may recognise Oviedo from the film Vicky Cristina Barcelona. This film was released to critical acclaim in 2008 and was filmed in Barcelona , Oviedo and Aviles. Oviedo is apparently considered by Woody Allen to be his second home.

Places to visit nearby

Aviles with its medieval centre and fortified walls is only around 20km away.

The lovely Costa Verde coast with its picturesque coves and beaches is well worth exploring.

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Oviedo guide: Discovering the overlooked Asturias capital on the ultimate Spanish city break

Green, elegant and a haven for foodies, this rustic northern spanish city should go on savvy travellers’ must-visit list, writes isabella noble, article bookmarked.

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W edged between the north Spanish coast and the Cordillera Cantabrica’s often snow-dusted peaks, the capital of beautifully green Asturias is a lively, elegant city with a colourfully painted old town, a thriving food-and-drink scene and a collection of entirely unique pre-Romanesque monuments.

Though often overlooked by foreign visitors, Oviedo is popular with savvy Spanish travellers who drop by to wander around the medieval centre, taste some of Asturias’s 40-odd cheeses and glug local cider poured traditional-style from up high.

It was from Oviedo that King Alfonso II of Asturias set off for Santiago de Compostela in the ninth century, giving birth to the first documented journey along the famous Camino de Santiago – today this challenging inland route is called the Camino Primitivo. The region’s unrivalled pre-Romanesque architecture, meanwhile, emerged in eighth century Asturias when most of the rest of Spain was under Moorish rule, and now lives on in a string of 15 buildings.

Read more on Spain travel :

• The ultimate travel guide to Spain
• Seville city guide
• Why Spain makes for the perfect flight-free destination

Best time to visit Oviedo

The best months are May/June and September when temperatures are warmer but there aren’t any summer crowds; Oviedo hosts its Fiestas de San Mateo celebrations in September, too. October is another great time to visit, with local sidrerias (cider bars) at their liveliest during apple harvest season, though this is also when the Princess of Asturias Awards happen so accommodation prices can skyrocket. July and August are peak season (and some businesses close for summer holidays).

Best things to do in Oviedo

Savour asturian history at oviedo cathedral.

Any visit to Oviedo should start with the landmark Catedral de San Salvador (€7; £6), whose distinctive Gothic tower spirals 80m above the historic centre (take a spin up for a bird’s-eye view; €8). Most of what we see today dates from the 13th to the 18th centuries, but the highlight is the Unesco-listed Camara Santa, a pre-Romanesque jewel built from the eigth century onwards as a home for holy relics, by orders of Alfonso II.

Climb Monte Naranco

Asturias’s most mesmerising pre-Romanesque buildings are dotted across green-clad Monte Naranco, just northwest of Oviedo. A Unesco World Heritage Site since 1985, the Palacio de Santa Maria del Naranco is thought to have been a royal hunting lodge, built for King Ramiro I in the ninth century. A few hundred metres away stands the Iglesia de Miguel de Lillo, also Unesco-protected and from the same time. A joint ticket costs €4, with visits by 30-minute guided tour (though you can admire the outside freely). Near the city centre, don’t miss the ninth-century Iglesia de San Julian de los Prados (€3), known for its vibrant frescoes.

Old town wander

Strolling around the historic centre is an essential part of the Oviedo experience, checking out squares such as Plaza El Fontan, Plaza del Paraguas or Plaza de Porlier and stopping for ciders or a long lunch on any old terrace. To explore with a local expert, book a tour with EnRutAsturias .

A few steps from the cathedral, the Museo de Bellas Artes de Asturias (admission free) has works by Picasso, Sorolla, Goya, Miro, El Greco, Zurbaran and other Spanish favourites in a duo of grand palaces from the 17th and 18th centuries, and a white-walled contemporary extension by Navarran architect Patxi Mangado. The neighbouring Museo Arqueologico de Asturias (admission free) offers a deep-dive into the region’s long history (prehistoric cave art, Roman ruins), in the 16th-century cloister of an old monastery.

Where to stay in Oviedo

Barcelo oviedo cervantes.

Switched-on Spanish chain Barcelo is behind this stylishly restored 20th-century mansion flanked by two contemporary-design wings, near the Campo de San Francisco park; rooms have a calming pared-back look and the glossy lobby hosts a modern-Asturian restaurant. barcelo.com

Rooms available from {{#price}} {{price}} per night {{/price}} {{^price}} Check availability for dates and prices {{/price}}

Rates provided by Booking.com

Hotel Amenities

Health & wellbeing, eurostars hotel de la reconquista.

Originally born in 1752 as a hospice, the city’s most sought-after hotel is a grand, protected five star, just off the Campo de San Francisco. Beyond the Baroque facade, there are Asturian artworks and classic-feel rooms mostly overlooking a sprawling patio. eurostarshotels.com

Hotel Fruela

For a sensibly priced base on the edge of the old town, this light-filled 19th-century building converted with a splash of style (warm woods, geometric lamps) is ideal. Doubles from €53, room only. hotelfruela.com

Best restaurants in Oviedo

Oviedo’s most-loved street is sloping Calle Gascona or El bulevar de la sidra (“the Cider Boulevard”), where people spill out from the sidrerias. Always busy, Tierra Astur serves Asturian wines, award-winning ciders, classic local dishes such as fabada (a meaty bean stew) and platters of Cabrales and Gamoneu cheeses.

In the old town’s buzzy narrow alleys, El Gato Negro is another popular sidreria, with terrace tables, good-value weekday menus del dia (set lunch menus) and traditional-style plates including cider-cooked hake. There are more typical Asturian flavours at Casa Ramon on Plaza El Fontan, which produces its own meat and sources its seafood and fish from the next-door Mercado El Fontan.

For a more creative taste of the Asturian kitchen, book a table at Ca’ Suso , run by brothers Ivan and Vicente Fernandez Feito. Their signature dish is croquettes made with blue La Peral cheese, but it’s all delicious, and the tempting desserts are often infused with fruit from their own trees.

Led by respected Asturian chefs Nacho and Esther Manzano, chic casa de comidas (“meals house”) Gloria puts a contemporary twist on market-fresh local flavours. Just-cooked tortilla, arroz con pitu (rice with free-range chicken) or spicy spider crab with brioche might pop up on the seasonal menu – absolutely worth seeking out just northwest of the Campo de San Francisco.

Best cafes and bars in Oviedo

Whether you fancy an early-morning coffee or a culin (shot) of cider, Oviedo is packed with wonderful places to grab a drink. The whole old town buzzes with bars, particularly around Calle Sol, Plaza del Paraguas, Calle Carpio and Calle de Mon.

Opposite the market, cafe-bakery Dos de Azucar is ideal for homemade cakes and pastries or a cheese-stuffed bocadillo (bread roll) with your cafe con leche. It’s a similar scene at vintage-vibe Per Se Cafe , near the cathedral, which also has original cocktails and live music.

La Leyenda del Gallo , a sleek bar-restaurant near the cathedral, serves some of Oviedo’s most fabulous cocktails; you’re just as welcome to pop in for an expertly mixed Long Monster Tea as for truffled tortilla, burrata salad and jamon croquettes. Mala Sana is another great spot for creative cocktails and artisanal vermouths.

Where to shop

Calle Uria and Calle Palacio Valdes are Oviedo’s main shopping streets, home to all the major Spanish brands (Mango, Zara, El Corte Ingles).

Dive into a wonderland of fresh Asturian produce at the old centre’s 19th-century Mercado El Fontan – think local vegetables, just-baked bread, seasonal fruit, Picos de Europa cheeses. Clothes and flower stalls spill into Plaza El Fontan on Thursdays and there’s a second-hand market on Sundays.

A few streets away at Atelier Emea , designer Macarena Alvarez Marcos makes gorgeous hats, from summer beach numbers to formal floral headwear. Over near the Campo de San Francisco, San and Coco is a stylish independent boutique stocking brands such as Des Petits Hauts and Becksondergaard.

For something sweet, pop into marble-clad confectionery shop Camilo de Blas , founded on Calle Jovellanos back in 1914; the thing to try is the carbayones (a puff-pastry sweet made with egg yolk, sugar and almonds), though it also sells Asturian ciders and cheeses. Neighbouring Rialto is another classic, known particularly for its moscovitas (almond-paste biscuits coated with chocolate).

Architectural highlight

West of the historic centre, Oviedo’s futuristic, shell-shaped Palacio de Exposiciones y Congresos was designed in concrete, glass and iron by superstar Valencian architect Santiago Calatrava.

How to travel around Oviedo

Central Oviedo is easily explored by walking. For the Monte Naranco monuments, take bus A2 from Calle Uria.

What currency do I need?

What language do they speak, should i tip.

There’s no obligation to tip in Spain but if you’re happy with a restaurant’s service, 5-10 per cent is good.

What’s the time difference?

One hour ahead of the UK.

What’s the best view?

From the Monumento al Sagrado Corazon (a stone statue of Christ) at the top of Monte Naranco.

Insider tip?

Tie in the lively seaside towns of Ribadesella and Llanes with their surf-loving beaches and original hotels such as La Posada de Babel (doubles from €88, room only). Or head on to the Picos de Europa mountains, where the Parador de Cangas de Onis (doubles from €94, room only) and organic farmhouse-and-hotel Posada del Valle (doubles from €74, room only) make perfect bases. Alternatively, roam around the little-known Parque Natural de Somiedo just southwest of Oviedo – you might spot rare Cantabrian brown bears.

Getting there

Trying to fly less.

There are daily trains between Oviedo and Madrid, with a new high-speed AVE line expected to launch sometime in 2023. Or travel by ferry from the UK to Santander, then hop on the narrow-gauge FEVE train to reach Oviedo.

Fine with flying?

Vueling and Ryanair have direct two-hour flights between London and Asturias Airport, 45km northwest of Oviedo.

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Oviedo/Uviéu

• 1.1 By plane
• 1.2 By train
• 2 Get around
• 4.1 Festivals

Oviedo or Uviéu (in Asturian language) is a cathedral city, capital of Principality of Asturias , in Northern Spain . It has an interesting old town with various monuments listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List .

Get in [ edit ]

By plane [ edit ]

43.563611 -6.034722 1 Asturias Airport ( OVD  IATA ) is 40 km north of Oviedo, close to Avilés . It has flights from Madrid, Barcelona, Palma de Mallorca, Sevilla and other Spanish airports, as well as international flights from Belgium, France, Germany, Ireland, Italy, the Netherlands, Portugal and the United Kingdom. (as of September 2023).

A direct ALSA bus runs between Oviedo bus station and the airport, hourly 06:00 to midnight, taking 45 min; the fare is €9 (June 2023). A taxi costs €50 and takes 20 min.

Other flight options are to use Santander which has budget flights (e.g. Ryanair from London Stansted), 3 hours away by bus, or fly into Madrid and reach Oviedo by bus or train.

By train [ edit ]

By bus [ edit ].

43.36907 -5.8509 3 Oviedo Bus Station is a long low building on Calle de Pepe Cosmen at the north edge of the centre, 300 m northeast of the railway station. ALSA is the main operator, with buses inland to Madrid, Barcelona and Sevilla, west to Avilés and Asturias Airport, and east to Llanes, Santander, Bilbao and Irun. International buses seldom come here nowadays, change in Madrid. There are cafes, ticket offices and luggage lockers (staffed M-F 09:00-19:30), plus a Tourist Information Office ( ☏ + 34 985117050 ).

By car [ edit ]

There is a convenient ring-road, with various exits into Oviedo. There are places to charge, but they are not near, check directions before getting into A6. Lugones will be your easy option to return. To Oviedo, freeway will take by car in less than 20min to Gijón or Avilés .

Distances to/from Oviedo: Madrid 450 km, Bilbao 305 km, A Coruna 325 km, Gijon 30 km.

Get around [ edit ]

The best way to get around is by walking.

Most of the centre of the city can only be visited that way, because little motor traffic is allowed. Where traffic is possible, be prepared for jams and narrow passes, as sometimes parking is permitted on both sides of the road.

The local buses ( Autobuses Urbanos de Oviedo , ☏ +34 985222422 ) are fairly reliable, and on every bus stop there is a screen with the time for arrival of the next bus. Almost all local buses go down Calle Uria. The single fare is €1.20 (children under 4 free).

There are plenty of taxis, although they are not cheap. Minimum charge at non-peak hours is €4. Although they can be found on taxi ranks and on the streets, you can contact one of two companies directly: Radio Taxi Ciudad de Oviedo ( ☏ +34 985250000 ) or Radio Taxi Principado ( ☏ +34 985252500 ); if you need to go from Oviedo to the airport. and from the airport to Oviedo, and you prefer taxi drivers who speak English; you can reserve it by email: [email protected], or by ☏ +34 615980000 . Final prices, taxes included in 2016 are €40. If you prefer other companies, prices are from €53.

See [ edit ]

• The old part of Oviedo is called the "Casco Antiguo" . Wander along cobbled streets admiring its beautifully restored buildings and squares. Some of the most outstanding are the 43.36169 -5.84358 1 Velarde Palace (which hosts part of the Art Museum), the 43.36053 -5.84472 2 Town Hall , the 43.35974 -5.84586 3 plaza del Fontán , the 43.36216 -5.84556 4 Palace of Toreno and the 43.36255 -5.84524 5 Palace of Camposagrado .
• 43.363 -5.843 6 Cathedral of San Salvador , Plaza Alfonso II El Casto . You walk in to a standard Gothic interior and wonder why you paid €7, but it opens out into an impressive series of spaces. It was built from 1388, with the tower added in 1528. There's a fine cloister, chapter house and Cámara Santa where religious relics are kept. €7 . ( updated Jul 2019 )
• 43.362 -5.84435 7 Museum of Fine Arts , Calle Santa Ana ( west flank of cathedral ), ☏ +34 9852130619 . Tu-F 10:30-14:00 & 16:30-20:30, Sa 11:30-14:00 & 17:00-20:00, Su 11:20-14:30 . Mostly medieval religious works but with some 19th & 20th-century work. Free . ( updated Jul 2019 )
• 43.36222 -5.84279 8 Museum of the Church , Corrada del Obispo , ☏ +34 985203117 . open Mo-Sat, free on Thursday afternoons .  
• 43.384 -5.867 9 Monte Naranco is a hill 3 km north of Oviedo, take the bus to (or park free at) the foot of Av. de los Monumentos. Along the lane uphill are two quaint little pre-Romanesque churches, 43.38032 -5.86835 10 San Miguel de Lillo and

43.37908 -5.86597 11 Santa Maria del Naranco . Continue to the crest of the ridge for views back over the city, and the 43.38478 -5.86394 12 Monumento al Sagrado Corazón de Jesús in the bosky valley beyond - pity about the ugly quarry on the far hillside.

• The Tourist Information office is just next to plaza de la Constitución, just the other side of the archway under the Town Hall on the right (calle Cimadevilla, 4, open M-Sa 10:00-19:00, ☏ +34 985213385 , e-mail [email protected]).

Do [ edit ]

• 43.36081 -5.87015 1 Watch football . (soccer) at Real Oviedo, who play in Segunda División , the second tier of Spanish football. Their home ground is Estadio Carlos Tartiere, seating 30,500, 1 km west of city centre. Tickets are €15 .  

Festivals [ edit ]

There are plenty of local festivities , in which local food, folk groups and local costumes are the main attraction:

• Fair of La Ascensión (variable date in May). It is a fair devoted to the countryside with an arts and crafts market, local produce and folk groups playing in the streets.
• La Balesquida or Countryside Tuesday (first Tuesday of Whitsun). The main event is a procession that takes place in the square in front of the cathedral, followed by the handing-out of bollu preñau (pronounced boyo preniau), or chorizo-filled bun.
• La Hoguera de San Juan . The night of 23 June (St. John), bonfires are lit all over the city and in the square of the cathedral. There is also a fountain-decorating contest.
• Fiestas de San Mateo are mostly a cultural affair with plays and concerts scheduled for the week leading up to St-Mathew's Day. America Day in Asturias takes place on 19 September in honour of the Asturian emigrants. A procession takes place through the main streets. On St. Mathew's Day (21 September) there is a hand-out of bollu preñau and wine, and at the end of the day fireworks in Parque de Invierno.

Buy [ edit ]

The old-town is full of small traditional shops. There is an open-air market in the main square on most days, which is worth a look. The traditional covered maket is close to the Plaza de la Constitución. Close to the covered market there are various shops that sell traditional foodstuff and cider. There are also various large shopping malls in Oviedo. The shopping malls offer uninterrupted shopping hours, from 10:00 to about 21:00. Other shops and businesses in Spain tend to close from 14:00-17:00:

• 43.38997 -5.80188 1 Intu Asturias . (people knows it as Parque Principado), which is located just outside Oviedo. The D1 and H1 bus goes from El Cristo and Serrano St, respectively, and takes about 30 minutes to get there, with stops along the way. Once there, you have about 110 shops, with the flagship hypermarket Familia flanking one end, and an eclectic range of restaurants, 11-screen cinema, bowling alley, casino, children's amusements on the other end. Parque Principado is situated in a sprawling industrial estate, which also boasts stores such as MediaMarkt, AKI (a DIY superstore), Conforama for furniture and an IKEA.  
• 43.37095 -5.8344 2 Los Prados . Shopping centre can be reached by bus no. 2,4,7 and 11. These buses can be caught from central Oviedo. This mall has Asturias' only IMAX theatre offering movies in 3D, and a traditional 14-screen cinema. The range of shops is not as impressive as that of El Parque Principado, however.  
• The main shopping mall in central Oviedo is 43.36588 -5.8499 3 Salesas , that hosts Spain's main department store El Corte Inglés, a huge supermarket Hipercor, as well as various fashion stores and a Burger King.
• There is a 43.36405 -5.85162 4 Corte Inglés in Calle Uría. This one is the biggest and the best of Oviedo.

Eat [ edit ]

There are many places to eat in the old-town, both indoors and in small secluded squares such as El Fontán or Gascona, to name just two. Down calle Gascona you will be able to get a huge set menu for around €10. The set menu ( menú del día ) may not be on the menu you are given, so you may have to ask.

Typical dishes of Oviedo are those common to all of Asturias. The Fabada Asturiana is a bean stew with a reputation all over Spain that is worth trying (maybe not in the evening!). A really well known Asturian dish is the Cachopo, this one is meat with ham and cheese all breaded. The Cachopo deserves a try. Fish and shellfish are of great quality. A local cheese , cabrales , also has an excellent reputation, especially if you like strong flavours. Less known are the gamoneu and afuega'l pitu cheeses. Asturias also has a tradition for rice pudding ( arroz con leche ).

There are many popular places to eat, the more known are: Tierra Astur (in Gascona there are two down the street there is a grill with local products and up the street there is the restaurant with every product said above. Also in the Fontán there are two: 43.3596 -5.84554 1 Casa Ramón with fish from the shores and 43.35993 -5.84644 2 Casa Amparo . Near the Cathedral there are many places to drink and eat tapas, like 43.36136 -5.84571 3 Plaza del Riego with restaurants of ham and 43.36214 -5.84586 4 El Reloj de Porlier with its great asturian and international food.

Drink [ edit ]

Cider ( sidra ) is something that should not be missed. The cider you will find in Asturias is natural cider and has a reputation all over Spain. Drinking cider in Asturias is a ritual in itself: it is poured from on high in order to incorporate air into the cider as it falls from the bottle to the glass. When you get your glass of cider it will be naturally fizzy. You are meant to drink in one gulp what the waiter offers you, leaving a little in the base of the glass. You then pour what's left out of the glass and leave the glass on the table until the waiter offers you more. Cider pouring is a messy business and the floor will get very, very wet and sticky (which is why the floors of sidrerías are covered in sawdust).

In many other bars and restaurants there is cider available. Look out for signs saying "Sidrería" or "Chigre". The best place to find a number of Sidrerías by far is La Calle Gascona (100 m from the cathedral). There are also plenty of wine bars close to Gascona street, on Calle Jovellanos. Do not miss El Patio de los Naranjos with friendly staff, good wine and tapas.

Sunday to Thursday bars close at 03:00, discos close at 05:00. On Friday and Saturday, bars close at 05:30, discos close at 07:00.

There are mainly 3 areas:

• 43.35367 -5.86795 1 El Cristo . In this area you can find mostly bars and pubs, and some after hour. Mostly middle age people in their 30s and 40s. ( updated May 2023 )
• El Rosal . It is where large numbers of youth go on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday afternoons and evenings (19:00 to 03:00). Once the teens have left, youngsters in their early 20s will take their place. ( updated May 2023 )
• La calle Mon . The vast majority of people end their night in this narrow and noisy street. People here are usually in their 20s and 30s. Erasmus students can be regularly found in "El Escondite" and on Tuesdays in the "Asturiano", for the Erasmus quiz. ( updated May 2023 )

Sleep [ edit ]

• 43.354 -5.869 1 Ramón Menéndez Pidal Hostel , Av Julián Clavería 14 ( University quarter 1 km west of centre ), ☏ +34 986 96 65 70 . Student accommodation but often with vacancies for visitors. ( updated Jul 2019 )
• 43.36817 -5.85403 2 Hotel Carreño . A clean efficient business hotel on Calle Monte Gamonal behind the railway station.  
• 43.374 -5.85 3 Ibis , Calle Ernesto Winter Blanco 6 ( junction with Calle Quevedo 1 km northeast of railway station ), ☏ +34 985 11 43 75 . Reliable budget chain. €50 . ( updated Jul 2019 )
• 43.363 -5.854 4 Eurostars Hotel de la Reconquista , Calle Gil de Jaz 16 , ☏ +34 985 241 100 , fax : +34 985 23 78 09 . This is where the celebrities stay, behind the imposing baroque façade. Yet standard rooms are only mid-price range. B&B double from €100 . ( updated Jul 2019 )
• 43.358 -5.861 5 Ayre Hotel Oviedo , Calle Policarpo Herrero ( 1 km west of centre, back end of Modoo (aka Calatrava) shopping centre ), ☏ +34 985 96 47 77 , fax : +34 985 22 15 54 . Mid-range hotel with modern rooms, congress room and other facilities. B&B double from €100 . ( updated Jul 2019 )
• 43.362 -5.847 6 NH Principado , Calle San Francisco 6 , ☏ +34 98 5217792 . Business-type hotel, very central for city sights. B&B double from €100 . ( updated Jul 2019 )
• If travelling by car, you might prefer staying in agro-tourist accommodation or casas de aldea in some of the outlying villages.

Go next [ edit ]

Asturias is full of coastal and mountain villages all worth visiting and spending some time in ( Luanco , Cudillero , Villaviciosa , ...). The other major towns in the area are Gijón , a lively coastal town, with a beach worth visiting, and Avilés The Picos de Europa National Park, on the other hand, is a great place for hiking and climbing.

The " Original Way " ( Camino Primitivo ) of the Way of St. James starts here.

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The Best Things To Do in Oviedo, the Capital of Asturias

Oviedo is the capital of Asturias, the north-westerly region of Spain perhaps best known for its cider. From a boisterous annual feria (fair) to one of the country’s finest public art collections, these are the best things to do when visiting the elegant city of Oviedo.

Having appeared in the New York Times’ 2020 list of “52 Places To Go”, Asturias – a land of rolling greenery and rugged coastline – is in vogue. The best introduction to this often-overlooked region of northern Spain is a visit to its capital, Oviedo, a stylish city located on two pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela. Whether you plan to visit its grand cathedral or sample the creations of two local, Michelin-starred chefs, here’s how to spend your time in Oviedo.

Experience the San Mateo Fiestas

Oviedo’s raucous feria (fair) is held every September (it runs 13–21 in 2020) and marks the end of summer in high style. Inaugurated in the mid-15th century by Pope Eugene IV, the San Mateo celebrations feature attendees dressed in typical Asturian costumes, open-air bars and barbecues, firework displays and free daily concerts on the cathedral square. The 19 September is also America Day in Oviedo, when locals celebrate the links forged between Asturias and South American countries by emigration in the 19th and 20th centuries.

Wander around San Francisco Park…

The leafy paradise of the Campo de San Francisco is found in the heart of Oviedo, just up the road from the city’s market and town hall. Spanning 90,000 square metres (968,751 square feet), these lush spaces served as an orchard for the San Francisco Convent before being turned into a public park in the 1800s. There is plenty to admire as you stroll its romantic promenades, including a wide range of flora, ornate fountains and crumbling ruins. Particularly of note is the archway to the 13th-century San Isidro church, the only part of the building that survived demolition in the 1920s.

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…and meet its resident cartoon character

While exploring the San Francisco gardens, go and meet the park’s resident cartoon character. Sitting on a bench in the middle of the park is a life-sized – or probably a little larger than life-sized – statue of Mafalda, the star of an Argentine comic strip that was hugely popular throughout Europe for its social satire (the comic ran from 1964 to 1973). The statue of the six-year-old philosopher was installed in 2014, when the princess of Asturias gave the cartoon’s creator, Quino, a prestigious award for his contribution to the arts.

Pick up local produce at the Mercado El Fontan

No visit to a Spanish town or city is complete without a wander around its central food market. Oviedo’s is located in the city centre, in an elegant glass-and-iron structure built in the late-19th century. Within, you’ll find rows of colourful stalls (puestos), from which vendors volubly tout Asturian specialities such as cheese and cider, as well as meat, fruit, vegetables, herbs and spices. Browse among the crowd as shoppers exchange gossip and stop at one of the many surrounding terraces for a drink and tapas when you’re done. The Mercado El Fontan is best visited on weekday mornings.

Drink cider at the ‘sidrerías’

Asturias is famous for its cider (sidra), and the region’s capital is packed with lively sidrerías in which to enjoy this speciality. The best place to head is Calle Gascona, a street in the centre that’s been nicknamed “Cider Boulevard” for a very good reason. At popular hangout La Pumarada , smartly-attired waiting staff pour the cider from high above your glass – the age-old method of oxygenating this dry, flat tipple. And if you’re after some local tapas to accompany your sidra, head down the road to Tierra Astur Gascona , a stylish franchise that offers boards of local hams and cheeses.

Visit a pilgrims’ cathedral

Oviedo is situated on the Camino del Norte, which stretches from Saint Jean de Luz in the French Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, and is the starting point of the Camino Primitivo. Don’t leave the city without visiting the pilgrims’ San Salvador Cathedral on Plaza Alfonso II El Casto. The main structure dates from the late-14th century, but the tower was added in the mid-16th century, resulting in a blend of architectural styles. Inside, there’s a ninth-century, UNESCO-protected chapel where you can view a very special piece of cloth that is said to have been placed around Jesus’s head after his death, and two jewel-encrusted crosses.

Go and see a spooky skeleton

For a dose of history, head to Oviedo’s Archaeological Museum, which is housed in a 16th-century monastery in the city centre. On the second floor, you can view the bones of a Bronze Age male, whose skeleton marinaded for centuries in a copper mine, soaking up sulphate and turning ghostly green in the process. The museum as a whole is well worth a visit, charting local history and customs from the prehistoric era through the Roman and Gothic periods. Another noteworthy exhibit is the 12th-century sarcophagus of Gontrodo Pérez, an Asturian aristocrat who became one of King Alfonso VII’s mistresses.

Eat at Gloria

If you want a classy dining experience while in Oviedo, consider booking a table at Restaurante Gloria. Run by sibling chefs Esther and Nacho Manzano, proprietors of the double Michelin-starred Casa Marcial in Arriondas, the focus is on local produce, with the set menu featuring a different Asturian dish every day. Try a wonderful version of the fabada Asturiana, a hearty stew of beans, chorizo, pork and black pudding (morcilla), the tortilla and the croquetas. Tapas-sized dishes are available as well as full mains (known as raciones) and an extensive selection of wines, beers and ciders.

Visit the Museum of Fine Arts…

Inaugurated in 1980 in an 18th-century palace in the city centre, Oviedo’s Museum of Fine Arts holds one of the best permanent collections in Spain. It boasts some 15,000 pieces, including paintings by Picasso, Dali, El Greco and Goya (to name just a few) as well as photography, drawing, sculpture and over 5,000 glass and earthenware items. Opened in 2015, The Modern Wing – itself a notable piece of contemporary design – is dedicated to art of the 20th and 21st centuries and has a space on the first floor dedicated to prominent Asturian sculptor José Maria Navascués.

…and the Santa Maria del Naranco Church

Perched high above the city on Monte Naranco – a big hill or mini mountain, depending on your perspective – is the Santa Maria church, a fine example of Asturian pre-Romanesque architecture. Reached by half an hour on bus A, or a 50-minute walk from the centre if you’re feeling fit, it was completed under the orders of King Ramiro I of Asturias in AD 842 and inaugurated in AD 848, as part of a palace-complex commanding sweeping views of Oviedo below. The building was converted into a church in the 12th century.

This article is an updated version of a story originally created by Esme Fox .

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Cultural Travel , Spain

Things to Do in Oviedo, Spain – The Monumental Capital of Asturias

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Colourful, monumental, beautiful Oviedo (Uviéu) has been the capital of the Province of Asturias since the 8th century, yet this stately city of northern Spain remains relatively under the radar. Here are the best things to do in Oviedo – a lesser-known but legacy-laced city.

From a city established on a hill by two monks in the year 757 to its rise as the capital of the first Christian Kingdom of Asturias, founded in the middle of the Reconquista in 810, Oviedo was built to be symbolic in a time of conflict when the Muslims occupied most of the Iberian peninsula. Under King Alfonso II, Oviedo became a centre of the royal court and a sacred place for pilgrims who walk The Original Way of St James – the Northern Way of the Camino de Santiago.

Wander the historic city and get lost in this architectural wonderland of those who conquered, ruled, and left their legacy. Get lost in the beauty of the Old Quarter with its pretty plazas and heritage museums. Trace ancient times on its stately streets, churches and palaces and UNESCO sites, including the gothic Cathedral and pre-Romanesque treasures on the city’s fringe – the artistic mark of the monarchy at the time. Spot the statues that honour people who shaped the city.

And if you don’t accompany such exploration with sidra (cider) or sample the award-winning flavours of the region’s protected gastronomic produce, did you even visit?

Here’s where to go in Oviedo to find it all.

Is Oviedo Worth Visiting?

Best time to go to oviedo, how many days to spend in oviedo city, how to get to oviedo, where to stay in oviedo, find the prettiest plazas, see why oviedo is the city of statues, admire the unesco pilgrim cathedral – basilica del salvador, listen to traditional gaita asturiana bands, relax in the urban park, campo de san francisco, visit oviedo’s renowned museums, marvel medieval unesco pre-romanesque monuments, shop local at mercado el fontán, try asturian dishes at oviedo’s top restaurants, taste artisan asturian cheese , find the master confectioners, visit a sidrería and enjoy asturian cider culture, visit the wine route – ‘ruta de los vinos’, what is asturias known for, day trip to gijón for coastal time, day trip to avilés, go hiking in the picos de europa national park, oviedo guide – things to know.

Here are the things to know from when to go, where to stay and what to see before planning a trip to Oviedo (pronounced Ov-ee-ay-doh). 

Oviedo combines natural landscapes with a millennium of historical and cultural heritage and renowned gastronomy, from stews to sidra (cider). While the regional capital is a natural starting point, the Asturian cities of Avilés and Gijón are also easily reachable within one hour, and the mountainous Picos de Europa National Park in two.

Other points of interest in Northern Spain include the neighbouring province of Castilla y León, whose capital, León is an ideal city to culturally twin with Oviedo. 

Situated between oceanic and mountainous terrain, the temperature in Oviedo is comfortable year-round. 

It means summers are not overbearingly hot (20-30 degrees), and winters are not blisteringly cold (5-10 degrees). Spring and Autumn average 15 degrees, with Autumn the time for the highest rainfall. With coastal cities, village valleys and forested peaks nearby, there are areas of activity in all seasons.

Plaza de la Escandalera in Oviedo, with the ‘Asturcones’ horse sculptures.

While many an Oviedo travel guide would tell you this is a day-trip city, I say to grant it more time. Give yourself at least two days to comfortably explore the city and plan for what Oviedo is famous for besides its statues – gastronomic indulgences. For example, you might not want to cram a big lunch and a cider house feast on the same day.

One day in Oviedo isn’t enough. Especially if you spend longer in museums, you’ll want that extra day. 

Street life in the classic and colourful Oviedo city.

The cities of Asturias in northern Spain – Avilés, Gijón, and Oviedo  –  can be easily reached from Asturias Airport (OVD), the only international airport in the province with regular Iberia and Vueling flights. 

It takes 45 minutes – 1 hour to reach Oviedo from the airport. Despite the airport code, Oviedo is the furthest city away and Avilés the closest. However, regular buses run between the airport and all three cities. You can check departures on the Alsa bus website .

By rail and bus

The extensive Renfe rail service connects Spain, making travel between Asturias quick and easy and connecting to neighbouring provinces and Madrid. The train from Madrid to Oviedo takes around four hours and 30 minutes. 

The train from Gijón to Oviedo takes around 25 minutes. There is no direct railway connection between Avilés and Oviedo – you’ll have to take an Alsa bus for the 45-minute journey.

Check out my  Renfe AVE guide  to train travel in Spain, with information on how and where to book tickets and route tips for city hopping adventures.

There are dozens of hotels in Oviedo, encouraging longer stays in the city and making a convenient base to explore the nature surrounding it.

My accommodation was Gran Hotel España – a centrally located, modern, mid-budget hotel in Oviedo city close to the Cathedral, Archaeological museum and Cider Boulevard, and a short walk to San Francisco Park. From €60 a night for a double room, including breakfast. Soho Boutique Oviedo has a similar offering, located 300 m from Plaza de la Constitución. Prices start from €80. 

A budget option with style is Green Hostel – a modern and minimalist space right in the city, with six-bed dorm rooms and private rooms with ensuite bathrooms. Some rooms have a city view, so it’s worth asking which are available, although you may pay a small premium. Dorm room bed from €20 per night, and a private double from €60. Breakfast is also included. 

Oviedo – Origen of the Camino.

Things to Do in Oviedo

A monumental medieval town. Tiled streets with chromatic charm. Treasuries of art and UNESCO World Heritage sites. Oviedo is an urban wonderland for the curious. One of the first cities in Spain to be mostly pedestrianised, it’s a city best explored on foot, and the Old Quarter is where you’ll find most Oviedo attractions.

This stone archway leads to Oviedo’s Plaza de Feijoo.

Plaza Daoiz y Velarde

This rectangular enclosure next to Plaza del Fontán and its covered market, El Fontán, is known for its outdoor market. Still, one of the most photogenic features of Plaza Daoiz y Velarde   is the building arcades and, most notably, the bright blue and yellow painted building of the Casa Ramón restaurant – a striking picture next to the pastel hues of its neighbours. 

The most beautiful building on Plaza Daoiz y Velarde.

Plaza de la Constitución

The official and most important square in the city, Plaza de la Constitución is where you’ll also find Ayuntamiento de Oviedo (Oviedo’s Town Hall) and the Iglesia de San Isidoro el Real (Church of San Isidoro El Real). The central arch of the Town Hall building – built in 1622 using parts of the old medieval wall – marks the boundary between the old and new sectors of the city. Walk through the arch on the Calle Cimadevilla, and you’ll enter the Old Quarter.

Ayuntamiento de Oviedo (Oviedo’s Town Hall), incorporates parts of the old Roman wall.

Iglesia de San Isidoro el Real stands out amongst more modern buildings in Plaza de la Constitución.

Plaza de la Catedral

Plaza de la Catedral is where you’ll find the city’s architectural masterpiece. The square’s original name, Plaza Alfonso II el Casto, is named after the King who ordered the construction of the San Salvador Cathedral in 812. It’s a symbolic square at the heart of the Original Way of St. James pilgrim route as people continue to pass through today on their journey. It’s also where you’ll find the “La Regenta” statue and Museum of Fine Arts.

The city’s masterpiece is the Basilica del Salvador of Oviedo.

Plaza Trascorrales

Hidden behind a cluster of buildings, you’ll know when you’ve stumbled upon Plaza Trascorrales when you enter this compact square filled with colour and al fresco café culture. Here you’ll find one of Oviedo’s best statues of a milkmaid and her donkey. 

The pantones of Plaza Trascorrales.

Plaza del Paraguas

In a more edgy, bohemian corner of Oviedo, I was drawn to Plaza del Paraguas   for the giant metal umbrella – a popular meeting spot in the city lined with bars. In the morning, it’s a blissfully quiet corner of the city, bathed in a golden glow. 

Finding the giant umbrella structure in Plaza del Paraguas.

The umbrella is a popular meeting spot in Oviedo.

Oviedo is full of statues and sculptures, turning the city into an open-air museum with over 100 works of art in its streets, squares, and parks. Here’s a pick of 10 well-known statues to seek out on your city walk.

El Regreso de Williams B. Arrensberg (The Return of Williams B. Arrensberg) is also known as ‘The Traveller’ – a man in a long coat leaning against his suitcase and looking toward the Cathedral. By Eduardo Úrcula, Plaza de Porlier.

El Regreso de Williams B. Arrensberg.

La Regenta  is a tribute to the heroine of an Oviedo based novel by writer Leopoldo Alas-Clarin. By Mauro Álvarez Fernández, Plaza de la Catedral.

La Regenta.

Culis Monumentalibus  is a 4-metre high, black tarnished bronze disproportioned pair of buttocks. You can’t miss it. By Eduardo Úrcula, Calle Alonso de Quintanilla outside Teatro Campoamor.

Culis Monumentalibus.

La Lechera shows a milkmaid with her donkey honours the women who would come to Oviedo to sell milk. By Manuel García Linares, Plaza Trascorrales.

La Lechera.

Las Vendedoras del Fontán  (the sellers of Fontán) represents the market history of this square. By Amado González Hevia, Plaza Daoiz y Velarde.

Las Vendedoras del Fontán.

La Bella Lola (the beautiful sorrow) shows a lady on the bench looking towards the sea, watching loved ones leave after saying goodbye. By Carmen Fraile, Plaza del Fontán.

La Bella Lola.

El Vendedor de Pescado  (the fish seller) shows a squatting man with his catch as he awaits a sale. By José Antonio García Prieto, Plaza Trascorrales.

El Vendedor de Pescado.

Mafalda  is an Argentine satirical cartoon character popular in Spain, and this statue on a bench in San Francisco Park honours the creator, Quino, for his contribution to the arts.

Mafalda sitting on the bench in San Francisco Park.

La Maternidad (Maternity), also known as ‘La Gorda’, represents motherhood and shows an oversized and disproportionately shaped woman and her child. By Fernando Botero, Plaza de la Escandalera.

La Maternidad.

Casal  is life sized statue of Asturian singer and 80s pop icon, Tino Casal. By Anselmo Iglesias Poli, Calle Palacio Valdés.

The 13th-century single-towered Gothic structure of the Basilica del Salvador took 300 years to perfect and is one of the foundational Oviedo and Asturias tourist attractions. The original cathedral site was founded by King Fruela I of Asturias in 781, and his son, Alfonso II of Asturias, enlarged it in tribute to his pilgrimage. Legend has it that the tomb of St. James was found in Iria Flavia (Padrón, Galicia) in 813, and King Alfonso II travelled from Oviedo to see it for himself – making him the first-ever pilgrim.

It was the start of a journey that came to be known as The Original Way of St James (The Primitive Way) that today begins in Oviedo – a 320km journey considered the oldest pilgrimage route. Following a similar trail, the Northern Way of the Camino de Santiago passes through Oviedo – an 800km journey through the Basque region, Asturias and Galicia. 

Visit Oviedo Cathedral, with its gothic altarpiece, vaulted ceilings and intricate carvings – it’s considered the third most beautiful cathedral in Spain. The pre-Romanesque structure was the Chapel of King Alfonso II, known as the Holy Chamber – home to the King’s collection of prized Christian relics, including the Holy Shroud of Jesus Christ. 

The magnificent entrance of the Basilica del Salvador.

If you visit on the weekend, you might hear the skirl of bagpipes reverberating throughout Oviedo’s old town. Follow the sound, and you’ll be lucky to stumble upon a unique tradition. During a visit to the Plaza de la Catedral ,  we came across a band in folk dress performing with drums and Gaita Asturiana. This type of bagpipe is native to Asturias, and its pitch is a little different to what you might know from Scotland since it only has two pipes instead of five.

Hear the sounds of Gaita Asturiana on the weekends in Oviedo.

The former 13th century San Francisco Convent garden, Campo de San Francisco (San Francisco Park), is a botanical hideaway just outside of the old town in Calle Uría – the commercial area of Oviedo. It’s filled with pathways, ponds and peaceful corners, statues, and the Romanesque stone archway ruins of the old San Isidoro Church. I enjoyed my 8 AM morning walk through this shaded haven just as much as I enjoyed visiting during the day when people queue to get their nostalgic photos with Mafalda and fill the park with childlike happiness.

The foliage of Campo de San Francisco grows around the Romanesque stone archway of the old San Isidoro Church.

The La Torera statue in San Francisco Park of photographer, Josefa Carril, who lived in Oviedo.

Oviedo’s rich heritage is curated within its archaeological and art museums – the Archaeological Museum and Fine Arts Museum are considered the most renowned. Not only are the collections contained within of significance, but the structures themselves are of historical value.

Museo Arqueológico de Asturias . The archaeological museum of Asturias houses collections that take you through the timeline of Asturian heritage and Oviedo’s history from the prehistoric to the Roman and Middle Ages eras. Even if you don’t spend long browsing the exhibitions, walk through the impressive Renaissance cloister – this structure was once the original Benedictine convent of Saint Vincente from the 8 th century.

The stone-walled, vaulted ceilings of the cloister inside the Museo Arqueológico de Asturias.

Museo de Bellas Artes de Austurias. Oviedo’s Museum of Fine Art is one of the leading art galleries in Spain, housing an extensive collection of around 10,000 works of art from the past 700 years that include Asturian artists alongside priceless Goyas, Picassos and Dalis. The building has great architectural value, comprised of the 17th-century Portal House, 18th-century Velarde Palace and a 2015 extension that granted it the ‘RIBA Award for International Excellence’.

While there are 15 preserved Pre-Romanesque   structures in Asturias, only six make up a collection given UNESCO World Heritage Site distinction in 1985. You can find five in Oviedo. A medieval design style influenced by the detailed frescos and sculpture styles of Christianity, these buildings are seen as the rare art of the Asturian monarchy – an architectural characteristic that flourished during the 200 years of the monarchy (722-910). 

Inside the city is  The Holy Chamber de Oviedo  and the  Fuente de Foncalada  (Foncalada Fountain). Just 3 kilometres on foot from the centre of the city, on the gentle slopes of Mount Naranco, you can visit three other significant 9th-century monuments.

Iglesia de Santa Maria del Naranco  is a palace, on southern slope of Naranco, built 842. 

See Iglesia de Santa Maria del Naranco, three kilometres form the centre of Oviedo.

San Julián de los Prados  is the oldest and largest of the churches, but  San Miguel de Lillo was part of the palace complex. New features of its construction in the 11th century were made by incorporating old elements, which you can spot on the exterior walls. The Frescos inside of acrobats symbolise those not conforming and therefore being sinful. 

Visit San Miguel de Lillo, once part of the palace complex on the hill.

Gastronomy in Oviedo – Where to Eat and Drink

Gastronomy is a big deal in Asturias. So much so that its regional food and drink produce is as revered, celebrated, awarded, and protected as its historical landmarks and environmental spaces. The latter provides the perfect terrain and fertile lands between the Cantabrian sea and the mountainous meadows to farm and cultivate such delicacies.

Six products of the Principality have received the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) stamp: Asturian cider, Cangas wine and the four kinds of cheese: Cabrales, Gamonéu, Casín and Afeuga’l pitu. Asturian beef, Chosco de Tineo (smoked preserved sausage) and the Faba de Asturias (white fava bean) have Protected Geographical Indication (PGI).

Ready to work up an appetite on your Oviedo visit? Here’s where to try the famed foods of Asturias. 

The medieval market morphed into a covered food market over the centuries, remaining a fixture of the city. Mercado El Fontán is where the locals stock up on cured meats (like Jamon), dairy (especially cheese), fresh fish, seafood, fruits and vegetables. Browse 2,000 square metres of stalls showcasing local delicacies – it’s hard to leave empty-handed. The busiest days are Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday, when the region’s farmers come to sell the latest products.

Mercado El Fontán is where you can shop for fresh Asturian food products.

Mercado El Fontán is full of regional cheese and cured meats.

The holy trinity of Asturian dishes is Fabada Asturiana (fava bean and pork stew), Cachopo (layered veal, cheese, and ham in breadcrumbs), and Arroz con Leche (creamy rice pudding).

We sampled these in a three-course indulgence at one of the best restaurants in Oviedo, La Corte De Pelayo restaurant – champions of the Cachopo using a 1947 recipe. Gloria is another popular choice, run by Asturian chef, Nacho Manzano.

The famed Asturian dishes of Fabada Asturiana, Cachopo and Arroz con Leche.

Asturias is an artisan cheese paradise, with its prime mountain pastures and long-standing production traditions like cave maturation. So much so that Asturias is known as ‘El Pais de Los 40 Quesos’ (the land of 40 cheeses) and the most prominent cheese area in the European Union.

The strong, blue Cabrales cheese develops its intense taste during the cave maturation process (in the region of the same name). Gamonéu (made in Onís and Cangas de Oni) is like a softer, slightly saltier parmesan. Los Beyos is like a strong, creamy cheddar, and the orange Afuega’ l Pitu is close to feta, with a subtle tinge of spice.

Asturias is known as ‘El Pais de Los 40 Quesos’ (the land of 40 cheeses).

Head to Rialto for the best handmade confectionery in the city. The Carbayones (éclair-like pastries filled with almond and egg yolk and glazed with sugar) and Moscovitas (thin chocolate and almond biscuits) fill the window display to lure you in. Both have secret recipes, and they cite their products as having “a taste of happiness”, which I can confirm after devouring an entire box.  

Inside Rialto, the best handmade confectionery in the city.

It’s near impossible to come to Oviedo and not visit a Sidrería (cider bar). Cider is a symbol of the region and is uniquely poured with pride .  And while there’s a lot to choose from with the “Sidrerías de Asturias” quality seal, Cascona Street is where you’ll find around a dozen of them – its nicknamed “Cider Boulevard” for that reason.

One of the best is Tierra Astur , a funky space with wooden seating in the shape of barrels and fresh bottles of cider submerged in cool water pools. 

One of the tastiest things to do in Oviedo is to visit the Tierra Astur Sidrería.

Thousands of green glass coder bottles hang from the interior of the Tierra Astur cider bar in Oviedo.

When at a Sidrería, you typically enjoy cheese tasting and tapas alongside small fresh pours of chilled cider. An Escanciador (cider pourer) will demonstrate the perfect Culete (small pour), which flows from a height to create bubbles for a hint of fizz, best enjoyed immediately in a single gulp. 

The unique demonstration of the perfect small pour of Asturian cider.

Asturias isn’t known as a prominent wine-producing region, but it does have Cangas – the only wine appellation in the area, from its terraced mountain vineyards.

Campoamor, Manuel Pedregal, Frey Ceferino, and Avenue de Santander form a block of streets known as ‘Ruta de Los Vinos’ (Route of the wines). It showcases over ten wine and tapas bars, where you can sample Asturian vino and varieties from neighbouring regions.

Trips From Oviedo

Is Oviedo your starting point? Here are some ideas on what else to see in Asturias if you have some extra days.

Oviedo, Avilés and Gijón are the largest urban areas in a region blanketed by green pastures and verdant valleys and cradled by the Picos de Europa mountains and the Cantabrian sea. 

More than a third of Asturias’ landmass is declared protected areas, which is why the region labels itself a Natural Paradise. A city with access to nature, Oviedo – the most southern of the Asturian cities – is a good starting point from which to access some of the UNESCO-listed Biosphere Reserves, nature reserves, national monuments, and protected landscapes. Most notably, the Picos de Europa National Park to the west that’s famed for its high peaks, glacial lakes, and accessible hiking trails.  

Mountain backed Oviedo – a city surrounded by nature.

Gijón is a charming city by the Cantabrian sea. Walk along Muro de San Lorenzo for sandy coastline and artistic sculptures on the western peninsula split by the Río Piles (River Piles), including the Monumento a la Madre del Emigrante.

The coastline and old town of Gijón.

The centre is in two parts. First, check out Centro – with its Modernist (Art Nouveau) style architecture when the city grew as a commercial centre in the late 19th century. Some of the best examples are along the main street of Calle Corrida, such as Jovellanos Theatre and connecting café Dindurra. The other area is Cimadevilla – the oldest area of the city – where you can wander amongst the remains of the Roman settlement of Gigia and see the ruins of the Roman Baths and step through the colourful historic neighbourhoods that have been home to fishermen, craftsmen, and the military.

Don’t miss the view from Santa Catalina Hill on the old town’s peninsula tip. Its landmark is the Elogio del Horizonte sculpture perched on the highest point. It was designed by Spanish artist Eduardo Chillida to amplify the sounds of the sea (it’s also affectionately known as King Kong’s Toilet).

Complete your trip around all three Asturian cities with a trip to Avilés – a city that blends its medieval past and modern industrial heritage. Wander through the winding streets that take you past dozens of preserved medieval monuments, including churches, palaces, and merchant homes. Cross the Ría de Avilés (Aviles River) to the Modernist and futuristic structure of the Oscar Niemeyer International Cultural Centre – a juxtaposition to the old stone urban centre.

There’s plenty of nature to be found in Asturian villages and small towns, but the region is also home to a vast chunk of Spain’s first national park – Picos de Europa National Park . Alfonso XII declared the then named Montaña de Covadonga a national Park in 1918.

The mountainous terrain of Picos de Europa National Park in Asturias.

If you want to visit and pick up a hiking trail, the Asturian entrance to the park is in Cangas de Onís, not far from the two glacial Lakes of Covadonga. Venture further for access to the hiking trail of the Ruta del Cares (a 12-km gorge route) and the Ruta del Alba (a 7-km trail on a former shepherd’s path that runs parallel to the Alba river).

You can also hike to the base of Picu Urriellu (Naranjo de Bulnes) – the highest peak in the Asturian section of the park, at 2,519 metres. The highest peak in Picos de Europa is Torre de Cerredo – but its 2,650-metre summit is technically in the neighbouring province of Castilla y León.

My deep dive into the Asturias capital was part of a trip exploring all the places to visit and things to do in Northern Spain by train, in partnership with Spanish Tourism . Thoughts, insights and opinions remain my own. 

About Becki

Becki Enright is a British Travel Press Award-winning writer whose work focuses on changing perceptions about misunderstood aspects of destinations. Her writing combines storytelling with insight into the social, historical, political and economic factors that shape the country or place in relation to tourism. Becki has appeared live on Sky News and CNN and has contributed to high profile media including National Geographic, Time.com, Guardian online, New York Times, Grazia and Buzzfeed.

Clive Dixon says

15 July 2023 at 10:28 am

What an elegant and delighful city. A half day visit was nowhere near enough but we shall return, sophisticated, atmospheric and spotless, not to be missed.

21 August 2022 at 7:58 am

I absolutely loved this insightful story about Oviedo in Asturias. There is something magical about this place, and it feels like a hidden treasure.

21 August 2022 at 2:53 pm

It really is a city in Spain that deserves more attention – it’s beautiful!

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12 Fun Things to Do In Oviedo, Spain – A Hidden Gem In Northern Spain

Posted on Last updated: 05/12/2023

Categories SPAIN

There are so many fun things to do in Oviedo, Spain. Here is a complete guide with plenty of suggestions to make sure you do not miss out on any of the local attractions, fascinating culture and architecture, and the delicious food and drink that this captivating city offers.

Founded in the 8th century, Oviedo (pronounced oh-vee-ay-doh ) was once the capital of the ancient Kingdom of Asturias. Although no longer a Kingdom, Asturias is a Spanish principality with a strong local identity, and Oviedo is still its capital today.

Oviedo is both an ancient and modern city, full of contrasts and surprises waiting to be discovered. 

From narrow cobblestone streets steeped in history, to mouthwatering hearty food, peculiar cider traditions, and an incredible amount of public art scattered around the city, Oviedo has something for everyone.

I visited Oviedo as part of a 5-day itinerary of Northern Spain by train , so here are my top recommendations for fun things to do in Oviedo. But before that, here is a little bit of an overview on this charming medieval city.

Table of Contents

• 1 An Overview of Oviedo
• 2.1 Gran Hotel España
• 3.1 Explore the Old Town
• 3.2 Visit Oviedo Cathedral
• 3.3 Venture into the Archaeological Museum of Asturias
• 3.4 Go hunting for sculptures
• 3.5 Listen to the sound of bagpipes
• 3.6 Discover Oviedo’s UNESCO Pre-Romanesque churches
• 3.7 El Fontán Market
• 3.8 Try the local cuisine of Asturias
• 3.9 Sample local sweet treats
• 3.10 Asturias, land of cheeses
• 3.11 Immerse yourself in cider tradition
• 3.12 Oviedo nightlife
• 4 How to get to Oviedo

An Overview of Oviedo

Oviedo is located in Northern Spain, in the Principality of Asturias. It is located 17.5 miles (28 kms) south west from Gijón on the coast. 

Whether you are a history buff, an insatiable foodie or ready for an outdoors adventure, Oviedo has it all. The city is over 1,000 years old, with an important culinary tradition, and it’s a great starting point to explore the neighbouring Picos de Europa . I would also suggest combining a trip to Oviedo with a visit to cities such as Gijón or León , which are very well connected by train.

Oviedo is famous for having an immense collection of public art scattered through its streets. It is also famous for its cider and the traditional way of pouring it – the act of escanciar .

Where to stay in Oviedo, Spain

Gran hotel españa.

I stayed at the Gran Hotel España , located at the edge of the Old Town and within a short walk from the main attractions. My room had a big balcony with great views over the city and the surrounding hills.

> Book Gran Hotel España here

Here are alternative places to stay in Oviedo that are highly recommended:

• NH Oviedo Principado
• Hotel Sercotel Ciudad de Oviedo
• Soho Boutique Oviedo

Fun things to do in Oviedo

Explore the old town.

Oviedo’s Old Town oozes charm in every corner, and you will want to wander aimlessly through its narrow streets, getting lost and discovering hidden squares and picturesque lanes. This is one of the first things to do in Oviedo.

The city has been a visionary in pedestrianising its town centre, so you can wander around and feel like time hasn’t really moved on here.

The heart of the Old Town is Plaza de Alfonso II El Casto, also known as Cathedral Square. No matter what direction you take from here, you will find some little gem.

If you enjoy escape rooms, a fun way to explore Oviedo Old Town (and beyond) is by turning the streets of the city into an interactive game with an Oviedo outdoor escape room game .

Visit Oviedo Cathedral

While you are in Cathedral Square, make sure you visit Oviedo Cathedral. It is an important symbol of Spanish Gothic architecture that took almost 300 years to be built.

Oviedo Cathedral is the starting point of one of the routes of the Camino de Santiago. You may know that Spain has many Caminos, with the most popular one being the Camino Francés (French Way), which goes through cities like Burgos and León.

The Camino that starts in Oviedo is the Camino Primitivo (Primitive Way). When you visit the Cathedral entrance, you will notice that one of the arches on the portico was built at an angle. This was to point pilgrims in the right direction to Santiago.

Inside, don’t miss the Chapel of King Casto, where there is a Royal Pantheon containing the bodies of the monarchs of the Kingdom of Asturias. The Holy Chamber is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

You can climb up to the top of the tower for 360 degree views of the city.

Venture into the Archaeological Museum of Asturias

The Archaeological Museum of Asturias is located within the former Benedictine Monastery of San Vicente, which was built in the 16th century.

The monastery is believed to have originally been founded in the 8th century, and it’s said to be the birthplace of Oviedo.

The museum displays a great prehistoric collection of the Asturian Neolithic, Megalithic, Bronze, and Iron Ages. Entry is free, and it’s worth popping in even if it’s just to see the original 16th century cloister. 

Go hunting for sculptures

As you wander around Oviedo you will notice an abundance of statues. There are over 170 scattered all over the city! Every other street, crossroad, and square has a statue offering a tribute to elements of Asturian culture, and to the art of sculpture itself.

A couple that stood out for me were ‘La Lechera’ (The Milkmaid) in Trascorrales Square, which celebrates the milkmaids that used to distribute milk across the city with their donkeys. This practice continued until the 1970s.

I also want to mention the statue of ‘La Regenta’ (The Regent’s Wife), which can be found in Cathedral Square. She is the fictional character of a 19th century Spanish novel. It is a classic that most Spaniards have read at school.

I also loved Culis Monumentalibus, a giant bronze bum by Eduardo Ùrculo that has become the unofficial symbol of the city.

Of all the things to do in Oviedo, going hunting for statues is a must.

Listen to the sound of bagpipes

If you are in Oviedo on a Saturday or Sunday, there is a good chance that you will come across one of the local bandas de gaitas (bagpipe bands) while you are in the vicinity of Cathedral Square.

You may be surprised to see and hear bagpipes, but this wind instrument, often exclusively associated with Scotland, is an important part of music in Celtic cultures such as Asturias, Galicia, and Brittany.

RELATED READING Things To Do In A Coruña, Spain – The Perfect One Day Itinerary

Discover Oviedo’s UNESCO Pre-Romanesque churches

Asturian Pre-Romanesque architecture is a style typical of the region. It first appears in the 8th century at the beginning of the Kingdom of Asturias. It is closely linked to the first Christian kingdom of the Iberian Peninsula after the Islamic conquest.

Today, there are 6 sites that make up the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Monuments of Oviedo and the Kingdom of the Asturias”. Two of those sites are very close to Oviedo and you can visit them by taking a 20-minute bus.

Santa María del Naranco is the most significant Pre-Romanesque building of the group. It was originally built as a palace for Asturian King Ramiro I and later converted into a church. 

It is built on a hilltop, so the views of the city from here are pretty spectacular, which makes this one of the best things to do in Oviedo.

A short walk up the hill is San Miguel de Lillo, a small church dedicated to St Michael the Archangel. Today only a third of the building is original, as the church collapsed and had to be rebuilt in the Middle Ages. 

RELATED READING The Perfect Itinerary For One Day In Bilbao, Spain

El Fontán Market

Named after a spring that used to occupy the spot where the market was built, El Fontán Market is the place to see every day Oviedo alive.

Although there’s been a market here since the 16th century, the current building dates from 1885. If you are a film buff, you may recognise it as one of the locations in the film Vicky Cristina Barcelona .

Step inside and you will find a food lover’s paradise. From fresh fish directly caught in the Bay of Biscay, to local specialties like homemade chorizo and Asturian Beef, and fresh bread and pastries. 

Asturias is Spain’s largest and one of Europe’s most important cheese producing regions, so make sure you sample some Asturian cheeses while you are in the market. This is one of the top things to do in Oviedo (unless you are vegan, of course).

Try the local cuisine of Asturias

Another element that is deep rooted in the Asturian culture is the local cuisine. Known for its seafood and its hearty mountain stews, there are a few dishes that every visitor to Oviedo (or Asturias) should try.

The most famous local dish is fabada , a rich bean and meat stew that will leave you feeling like you’ve just had the warmest of hugs. It is the epitome of comfort food.

Another traditional Asturian dish is cachopo , the Asturian version of cordon bleu. And for dessert, arroz con leche (local rice pudding) is as Asturian as it gets.

A highly recommended place to try any of these dishes is La Corte de Pelayo Restaurant . Their fabada has been a finalist multiple times in the fabada competition, and their cachopo has won the best cachopo award with a recipe from 1947.

RELATED READING A Taste of Granada – The Granada Food Tour That Goes Beyond Tapas

Sample local sweet treats

One of the famous sweets in Oviedo that everyone must try is moscovitas . They are delicate biscuits made with marcona almond biscuits and covered with chocolate on one side. The chocolate can be dark, milk or white.

The best place to try moscovitas is in Confitería Rialto , where the original recipe was developed.

Another traditional sweet is the carbayones , perhaps the most typical sweet in Oviedo. Carbayones are pastries filled with a creamy almond dough that date back to the beginning of the 20th century.

Try them at Camilo de Blas , a traditional sweet and patisserie shop that has been making carbayones since 1914.

Asturias, land of cheeses

For me, the highlight of the food I tried while in Oviedo was the cheeses.

Asturias is often referred to as the land of cheeses. With over 40 types, it is Spain’s largest cheese producer, and one of the most important in Europe. The variety and quality is astounding!

Don’t leave without trying a local cheese board. Sidrería Tierra Astur El Vasco has more than 40 varieties of cheese on offer, so the biggest problem you’ll have will be choosing which ones to try.

If you like strong and slightly spicy cheeses, try Casín . For blue cheese lovers, I recommend trying the world-famous Cabrales . And for those who prefer mild cheeses, Afuega’l Pitu is a fantastic choice!

Immerse yourself in cider tradition

When it comes to drinks, cider is king in Asturias. In fact, you cannot visit this Northern Spanish region and not go to a sidrería (cider house), where cider is served by an escanciador (cider pourer). It’s one of the most popular things to do in Oviedo.

Cider in Asturias is not fizzy, so the act of escanciar involves pouring it from a height to create bubbles that help enhance the flavour of the cider. Each pour is about two fingers’ worth of drink. More than that and the carbonisation is lost by the time you drink it.

Oviedo nightlife

If you are wondering what to do in Oviedo at night, head to Mon Street, the heart of Oviedo nightlife. With plenty of bars and pubs to choose from, you are guaranteed a good night out. But this is Spain, so make sure you don’t turn up before 11pm!

How to get to Oviedo

The easiest and quickest way to get to Oviedo is by flying into Asturias airport. Vueling is the only international airline that flies directly from London, but you can fly from all over the world via Madrid. > Check the best deals on flights on Skyscanner here

From Asturias airport, you can get a bus to Oviedo or book a transfer .

If you would like to avoid flying, you could take a ferry from Plymouth to Santander . Then take the train from Santander to Oviedo. > Check the best deals on train fares on Omio here

Do you have any questions about things to do in Oviedo? Let me know in the comments!

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Disclosure: This post has been created as a partnership with Spanish Tourism . As always, all views are my own. 

Teresa is an award-winning travel blogger based in London. She’s on a mission to explore the world through responsible cultural and adventure travel , and through deeper, more meaningful local experiences. She’s a lover of adventure, the outdoors and everything food related, and she’s always looking for ways to make a positive impact through sustainable travel .

12 Top-Rated Tourist Attractions in Oviedo

Written by Lisa Alexander Updated Dec 25, 2023 We may earn a commission from affiliate links ( )

Amid the rolling hills of the Picos de Europa mountains, Oviedo lures visitors with its peaceful natural landscape and intriguing pre-Romanesque churches. King Alfonso II founded the city as the capital of the Kingdom of Asturias in the 9th century; he chose this strategic mountain location as a defense against attacks from the Muslim emirate of Córdoba.

In the Old Town , visitors sense Oviedo's special character while wandering the narrow pedestrian streets and atmospheric lanes. Impressive architectural landmarks are found at every turn, reflecting the city's rich heritage.

Oviedo is also known for its gastronomic excellence . The delicious local cuisine features specialties of the Asturias region such as Fabada Asturiana (bean stew), Pitu de Caleya (special free-range chicken), and Cabrales cheese.

Find out more about the best places to visit in this fascinating historic city with our list of the top attractions and things to do in Oviedo.

See also: Where to Stay in Oviedo

1. Catedral de San Salvador (Oviedo Cathedral)

2. esculturas de oviedo (oviedo's sculptures), 3. iglesia de santa maría del naranco, 4. museo de bellas artes de asturias, 5. museo arqueológico de asturias, 6. parque de san francisco, 7. iglesia de san miguel de lillo, 8. iglesia de san julián de los prados, 9. palacio de los condes de toreno, 10. iglesia de san tirso el real, 11. palacio de camposagrado, 12. iglesia de santa maria de bendones, where to stay in oviedo for sightseeing, map of attractions & things to do in oviedo.

Oviedo's impressive Gothic cathedral was constructed over a period of several centuries (13th - 16th) on the site of an earlier eighth-century church. The facade, renovated later, boasts a lovely Baroque relief of the Transfiguration.

The monument's most striking feature is the 82-meter-high tower, considered one of the finest in Spain. Built in the 15th century, the tower is noteworthy for its decorative integrated spire.

The cathedral's sanctuary features exquisite architecture and masterpieces of art. In the Capilla Mayor is the 16th-century tomb of Archbishop Arias de Villar and a magnificent retablo (main altarpiece) with numerous panels depicting scenes from the life of Christ. A splendid 11th-century silver gilt reliquary is found in the Baroque Capilla de Santa Eulalia .

To find the cathedral's most prized possession, take the flight of steps in the south transept up to the Cámara Santa . This UNESCO-listed chapel contains the Arca Santa (Holy Chest), a precious reliquary brought to Asturias after the Visigothic Kingdom of Toledo fell to the Moors.

The Arca Santa is covered with silver-plated reliefs and contains relics from the Holy Land along with other treasures such as the ninth-century gold-filigree Angels' Cross (Cruz de los Ángeles). Medieval pilgrims traveling to Santiago de Compostela stopped in Oviedo to venerate the reliquary displayed in the Cámara Santa.

Below the Cámara Santa is the Capilla de Leocadia , which contains 12th-century tombs. The cathedral also has a beautiful cloister from the medieval era.

Within the cathedral's splendid Gothic 14th- to 15th-century cloister is the Archivo Capitular (Archive Room), which contains historic manuscripts. Exploring the cloister further leads upstairs to the 18th-century Museo de la Iglesia (Church Museum), which displays a collection of religious art.

The cathedral is open to the public every day year-round. Visitors should plan to spend at least one hour and a half to see all the sights. Mass is celebrated at the cathedral twice daily and several times on Sundays and holidays.

Address: Calle la Rúa, Oviedo

Official site: http://catedraldeoviedo.com/en/

In the past few decades, Oviedo has become known for its increasing number of public sculptures, and the city continues to commission more. The artwork is everywhere, woven into the landscape and installed on sidewalks and pedestrian streets, as if the city were an open-air museum.

Tourists can go on an artistic scavenger hunt to discover the sculptures. The city has a Route of Sculptures (Ruta de las Esculturas), which includes hundreds of artworks, representing a variety of styles and subjects, from historical figures and celebrities to everyday people.

Among the hundreds of sculptures to enjoy, one of the most famous is the "Mafalda" sculpture by Pablo Irrgang depicting a beloved Argentinian cartoon character (Parque de San Francisco), and one especially popular with Americans is the bronze statue of Woody Allen by Vicente Menéndez Santarúa (Calle Milicias Nacionales).

There are also many fictional literary characters like the luggage-laden "The Traveller" by Eduardo Urculo (Calle Eusebio Gonzalez Abascal) and the beautiful "La Regenta" by Mauro Álvarez Fernández (Plaza Alfonso II el Casto), a character from a novel by Leopoldo Alas Clarín.

On the Plaza de la Escandalera are two unique sculptures: "Asturcones," a contemporary equestrian statue by Manuel Valdés Blasco; and the voluminous "La Maternidad" ("Motherhood") sculpture by Fernando Botero, which many locals jokingly call "La Gorda" ("The Fat Lady").

Standing in a grassy area at the foot of the Monte del Naranco, the Iglesia de Santa María del Naranco lies two kilometers outside of Oviedo and offers stunning views of the city. This unassuming little church has UNESCO World Heritage status because of its exceptional historical value.

Originally a royal palace built for King Ramiro I in 848, the building was converted into a church in the 10th and 11th centuries. The church is a wonderful example of pre-Romanesque architecture with its interesting exterior staircase, rectangular floor plan, and barrel-vaulted hall illuminated by arched windows.

The building also features twisted columns, typical of Asturias, on the exterior and interior. The exterior columns have Corinthian capitals, whereas the interior columns are trapezoid capitals. It is rare to find such well-preserved architectural details that predate Romanesque architecture.

The Iglesia de Santa María del Naranco is open to the public for guided visits everyday year-round, except on Mondays when self-guided visits are possible. Guided visits are about 30 minutes. Entrance requires an admission fee.

Location: Monte Naranco, Oviedo

To the south of San Tirso Church on Calle de Santa Ana is the 18 th -century Baroque Palacio de Velarde , which now houses the collections of Oviedo's Museum of Fine Art.

Since its inception in 1980, the museum has spread to occupy surrounding buildings, including the Casa de Oviedo-Portal, a 17 th -century aristocratic mansion, and the Modern Wing, which was completed in 2015.

The Palacio de Velarde contains a collection of historical paintings (dating from the 14 th to 19 th centuries) by noteworthy artists like El Greco, Murillo, Goya, Ribera, Zurbarán, Miró, and Picasso. There are also sculptures dating from the Baroque period through the present.

The Casa de Oviedo-Portal displays an assortment of 19 th -century artworks. The collection includes Romantic paintings, as well as Realistic works. Not-to-be-missed are the pieces created by local artists of the Asturias region.

The Modern Wing focuses on contemporary art of the 20 th and 21 st centuries, while the structure itself is a tasteful marriage of the old and the new, incorporating traditional decorative features with updated architectural elements.

Official site: www.museobbaa.com/en/

Oviedo's Archeology Museum is found behind the cathedral, in the cloister of the old Convento de San Vicente, which was founded in the 8th century and rebuilt in the 15th. The permanent collection includes various sections: the Neolithic and Metal ages; medieval Asturias; and the ancient Roman era.

The ground floor is devoted to pre-Romanesque and Romanesque art, mainly from the Asturias region. A highlight of this collection is part of the altar of Santa María del Naranco.

The first floor displays ancient Roman coins, sculptures, mosaics, and other artifacts of the Roman era. The second floor presents prehistoric findings discovered in the surrounding areas; many of the objects on display date back to the Stone Age.

Address: 3 - 5 Calle San Vicente, Oviedo

An escape to nature in the heart of Oviedo, this beautiful park covers an expansive area of six hectares. The Parque de San Francisco was once the orchard of the Convent of San Francisco. Lush vegetation, exotic plants, and colorful flowers create a verdant paradise. Banana, oak, elm, and chestnut trees are among the varieties found in the park.

It's a joy to explore the shaded walking paths and tree-lined avenues of this park. Visitors will discover monuments, statues, and arches dotted throughout the premises. It's also possible to spot one of the gorgeous peacocks who make their home here.

This tiny, ancient chapel is on Monte Naranco (two kilometers outside the city of Oviedo), a little higher up on the hill from the Iglesia de Santa María del Naranco. The Iglesia de San Miguel de Lillo is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its extraordinary cultural value.

The church is a marvelous example of pre-Romanesque architecture, featuring typical Asturian columns on the exterior and in the interior. Around one third of the original 9th-century structure has remained intact, including the portico, sections of the nave, and four of the intricately designed stone latticework windows.

The interior is vaulted and features motifs of Visigoth, Byzantine, and North African origin.

Every year on September 29 th , the Church of San Miguel de Lillo celebrates the feast day of Saint Michael the Archangel.

The Church of Saint Julian (also known as "Santullano") stands outside the historic center of Oviedo. The church is a short drive away from the main tourist attractions in a modern suburb ( Pumarín ) of Oviedo and is unfortunately located at the side of a road. It is still a worthwhile tourist attraction despite its less than picturesque surroundings.

This remarkable UNESCO-listed monument was built during the reign of Alfonso II and is the oldest church in Oviedo. Constructed between 812 and 842, the church was dedicated to Christian martyrs, Julián and Basilisa, a married couple who retreated to monastic life.

San Julián de los Prados is the largest pre-Romanesque church in Spain, measuring 25 meters by 30 meters. Until the 11th century, this was the largest Christian building in Spain.

The architecture is based on a basilica floor plan, including three doorways, a transept, and three naves separated by pillars and arches. One unusual feature is the two-level apse with an altar on the lower level. Especially noteworthy are the detailed and colorful frescoes, full of geometric patterns, symbols, and figures.

The church is open to the public for visits Monday through Saturday year-round. Admission requires an entrance fee, except on Mondays when admission in free. Guided tours of the church are available every 30 minutes.

Address: 1 Calle Selgas, Oviedo

Built in 1675 by Gregorio de la Roza, the Palace of the Count of Toreno is a designated Historic-Artistic Monument . This exquisite Baroque building is considered one of the city's most beautiful historic structures.

The palace has a lovely façade in the Baroque style featuring Tuscan columns framing the entrance doorway. Constructed from ashlar stone, the building is arranged around a central courtyard, with three courtyards and a grand entrance staircase.

The building houses the Royal Institute of Asturian Studies (RIDEA), an organization founded in 1946 to preserve and promote the cultural and artistic heritage of the Asturian principality.

Address: 9 Plaza de Porlier, Oviedo

The 9th-century Iglesia de San Tirso el Real was part of an ecclesiastical complex built by Alfonso II. However, the church was remodeled many times throughout the centuries, and only one window of the sanctuary reveals the original pre-Romanesque architecture.

The " Ajimezado Window " is easy to identify. Look for the three semicircular brick arches over marble columns featuring decorative capitals, within a Moorish molding.

Typical of Romanesque architecture, the church interior has three naves separated by square pillars on supporting arches.

The Iglesia de San Tirso el Real is open to the public for visits Monday through Saturday year-round. Admission requires an entrance fee. Guided tours are available.

Address: 4 Plaza del Alfonso II el Casto, Oviedo

This magnificent 18th-century Baroque palace is a designated Historic-Artistic Monument and now houses the Supreme Court of Asturias. The mansion was built in the 18th century for José Manuel Bernaldo de Quirós, Marquis of Camposagrado.

The palace has two impressive facades: a Rococo facade is on the Plaza de Porlier and a Baroque facade looks out towards the Palace of Valdecarzana .

This monument is not open to the public, but is worth visiting to see the monumental exterior.

Address: Plaza de Porlier, Oviedo

The Iglesia de Santa María de Bendones is a 9th-century pre-Romanesque church that was damaged in the 20th century and rebuilt in 1958. It's classified as a National Monument .

Simple and somber in architectural form, the church reveals an austere design similar to San Julián de los Prados. The only adornments on the exterior are restored lattice work over the windows.

The interior features wood-beamed ceilings and original pre-Romanesque mural paintings (although only a small section on the south side has been preserved).

Visitors should keep in mind that the church has very limited hours of admission. The monument is only open to the public from 10:30am until 11am on Sundays and holidays.

Location: Parroquia de Bendones, Calle de San Lázaro, Oviedo

Luxury Hotels:

• Eurostars Hotel de la Reconquista is a five-star hotel near the Parque de San Francisco, as well as close to many shops and restaurants. The hotel occupies a grand historic building classified as a National Monument. Guest rooms offer updated amenities along with old-world charm. Amenities include a concierge, fitness center, breakfast buffet, and a gourmet restaurant that serves Asturian cuisine prepared from local ingredients.
• About a 20-minute drive outside of Oviedo, the five-star Gran Hotel Las Caldas is renowned for its tranquil mountain setting and state-of-the-art wellness clinic. Facilities include the modernized Royal Spa that dates to the 17th century, an indoor pool, hydrotherapy center, fine-dining restaurant, and a lush garden overlooking the UNESCO-listed Las Ubiñas Nature Park.

Mid-Range Hotels :

• Housed in a stunning 20th-century mansion near the Parque de San Francisco, the Barcelo Oviedo Cervantes hotel provides five-star accommodations and service while offering mid-range pricing. Guest rooms are well appointed and tastefully decorated in contemporary style. The hotel has a trendy gastronomic restaurant and a casual tapas bar.
• Located between the Parque de San Francisco and the cathedral, Princesa Munia Hotel & Spa is an excellent four-star hotel. Guest rooms are bright and spacious with sleek minimalistic decor. Amenities include a spa, sauna, hot tub, hydrotherapy pool, and Turkish baths. The hotel also has a casual gourmet restaurant.

Budget Hotels :

• The Hotel Rosal is located within easy walking distance of the Parque de San Francisco and the cathedral. This family-friendly hotel offers basic but clean and comfortable accommodations at reasonable prices. Guest rooms include flat-screen televisions.
• Another affordable hotel in a central location is Aparthotel Campus , which is 500 meters away from the Iglesia de San Julián de los Prados and about a 10-minute walk to the Museo Arqueológico de Asturias. Studios and one-bedroom apartments are available for two or three people, or for four-person families. All accommodations include a small kitchen and a dining area. The hotel provides a continental or buffet breakfast for an additional charge.

More Related Articles on PlanetWare.com

Santiago de Compostela: Oviedo sits along a rugged yet beautiful portion of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela . One of the top attractions of northern Spain , Santiago de Compostela is renowned for its medieval cathedral. The entire historic center of the town is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Bilbao & Santander: Also along the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route are the cities of Santander and Bilbao, two very different destinations, which each have plenty to offer. Bilbao was once a run-down coastal town but it has evolved into a top tourist destination on Spain's northern coast thanks to the iconic Guggenheim Museum. Nearby, laid-back Santander is a top beach destination with golden sand and plenty of sun. Here, you can also find excellent museums, including the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art.

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• Travel to Spain Best of Spain

Travel to Oviedo: 7 Best Attractions, Food & Activities

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Bagpipes, cider, great kings, and tasty stews- can you guess the place with these references? One might think of a city in Wales or Ireland, but I am actually referring to Oviedo in Asturias, Spain.

If you’re planning a trip to Northern Spain, Oviedo is the perfect cozy destination located between Galicia and Cantabria.

In this article, you’ll find all the information you need to plan your itinerary and make the most of your trip to this charming city.

Let’s get to it!

Table of Contents ▼ ▶

What is Oviedo in Spain?

Oviedo is an ancient city that has been around since the 8th century and is located in the beautiful autonomous region of Asturias. According to historians, the Asturian region was inhabited by Celtic tribes before Oviedo was founded. The city’s origin can be traced back to 761 AD when two priests established it. 

Just like in the past, today oviedo still is the capital of Asturias and it home to a population of approximately 225,000 residents as of 2022. This city strikes the perfcet balance between a busy city life and a quite village.

For instance, the city’s Cathedral of San Salvador, which dates back to the 9th century, is a remarkable example of pre-Romanesque architecture. In addition, the city’s historic center, which has plenty UNESCO World Heritage Site, Oviedo is nice destination for a good city detox. 

Best Things to Do in Oviedo

1. explore the historic old town (casco antiguo) of oviedo.

One of the best things to do in Oviedo is explore the Old Town. Since the city center is primarily pedestrian, visitors can easily walk everywhere while enjoying fresh air.

In the Old Town of the city, you will find many landmarks such as the Plaza de la Constitución, the Cathedral of San Salvador, the Museum of Fine Arts of Asturias, and more than a hundred sculptures of famous people such as Woody Allen, or just silhouettes of daily life actions such as “La Torera.” 

2. Visit the Campoamor Theater (Teatro Campoamor)

This is a neoclassical building constructed in 1900 to host opera shows, representing the growth of the bourgeoisie in Oviedo.

3. Discover the San Francisco Park (Parque San Francisco)

San Francisco Park is a cool spot to take a walk and chill under the trees. It’s located right in the heart of the city, and you can find the Mafalda culture there. You know, that famous Argentinian comic character created by Quino, who won the Asturian Prize back in 2014.

4. Visit the Mercado de El Fontán and try culinary delights!

The El Fontán Market is located on the site of a former dry lagoon that existed before the 13th century. After the devastating fire of 1521, the municipality of Oviedo decided to establish a weekly market to boost the economy.

In the 19th century, the current building was designed and constructed to accommodate numerous merchants. Today, visitors can explore the market and taste some of Oviedo’s delicacies, such as cider, fabada, or the famous cachopo!

5.  Visit the Pre-Romanesque Monuments of Oviedo and the Kingdom of the Asturias

As mentioned, Oviedo was founded alongside the Kingdom of Asturias when King Pelayo freed the territory from the Muslims. This means that Asturias has existed since the 8th century, and plenty of well-conserved landmarks allow people to get a glimpse of life at the beginning of the autonomous region. 

Some of the landmarks you must visit are:

• Santa Maria del Naranco (building)
• San Miguel de Lillo (church)
• Santa Cristina de Lena (church)
• San Julián de los Pradoos (basilica)
• Camara Santa Chapel
• La Foncalada (fountain)

All of the previous Pre-Romanesque structures are UNESCO World Heritage Sites worth visiting during your trip. 

6. Day Trip to Gijón

Gijón is a cool coastal city located along the Bay of Biscay. It has a long history dating back to Roman times, but now it’s a modern hub of cultural events, amazing food, and stunning beaches. 

Going from Oviedo to Gijón takes 20 minutes by bus, and the tickets are as good as 6 euros round trip!!!

If you want to include this in your trip, check out the following activities:

• Morning Stroll at Playa de San Lorenzo
• Explore the Old Town (Cimavilla)
• Visit Museo Evaristo Valle
• Lunch at Cervigón Market
• Explore Jardín Botánico Atlántico
• Discover Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura
• Evening at Plaza Mayor
• Visit Gijón Marina and Seaside Promenade

7. Day Trip in Cudillero

Cudillero is a quiet fishing village in the coast of Asturias; traveling from Oviedo this village takes 1h30, and the ticket price varies from 9 to 15 euros round trip.

Cudillero is known for its unique architecture - brightly colored houses built on steep hillsides overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. It’s so cool that it’s also called “The Amphitheater of the Sea.” 

Fishing has been the main activity in Cudillero for centuries, and you can easily see it in the bustling harbor, where colorful fishing boats float in the water. Knowing this, you must eat seafood in Cudillero!

There is not much to do in Cudillero, mainly strolling through the coast, enjoying the views, and regaining some inner peace.

To read more about cute towns in Spain, check the following featured article:

• 10 Charming Towns in Spain for a Unique Day Visit

How to Get to Oviedo

The Airport of Asturias is the one that corresponds to the city of Oviedo, and it is located closer to the coast, 40 minutes away by bus and car from our main city. 

So, a flight Madrid-Oviedo round trip costs approximately 71 euros for 1h15 minutes traveling, while the direct bus costs around 74 euros for 5h15 minutes on the road.  

If you decide to rent a car and drive from Madrid, the time would be 4h28, and the rental price will depend on the type of car. 

Mechanic cars are usually cheaper than automatic ones.

If you are traveling from Barcelona, the best decision you make is just to take an airplane, and if you are traveling the North and find yourself in places like Pamplona or Bilbao, it is best to rent a car or go by bus.

Best Time to Visit Oviedo

To enjoy the city at its best, you must travel during Spring and Fall. In those months the weather is mild, you will get some sunny days with lots of fresh air. In the fall, it might get too rainy, though!

Summer is also a great time to visit Oviedo as the city doesn’t get horrendously warm. Still, I would advise changing Oviedo for Gijón, Cudillero, or Ribadesella, which are cute coastal cities and towns with great beaches. 

Where to Eat in Oviedo

Brunch & Coffee

Pioneros Coffee Roasters is a specialty cafe located in the C. Marqués de Pidal, 21, seven minutes away by foot from the San Francisco Park. There, you will find a crazy good coffee menu and some delicious food, such as avo toast, Spanish tomato toast, and sandwiches. 

If you’re looking to taste traditional Asturian dishes, don’t miss out on the Fabada (bean stew) or the Cachopo (beef steak with ham and cheese), and of course, the sidra! And you can find all of this dishes in the restaurant El Fartuquín.

If we take as a reference the San Francisco Park, this restaurant is 10 minutes away by foot in the street Carpio, 19. 

If you want to try a different dinner, go to the restaurant “El Loco del Pelo Rojo” and try a fushion cuisine from different parts of the world. 

The restaurant is located a bit further away from the center, but perfect to reach by foot, yuo can find it in Fruela street, 3. 

Where to Stay in Oviedo

If you are looking for a luxurious stay in Oviedo, you can opt for the Eurostar Palacio de Cristal hotel, which is situated just a 10-minute walk away from the historic center. For an average of €160 per night, you can enjoy a delicious breakfast, a spacious and impeccably clean room, and a trendy lounge area.

Hotel Clarin is a 3-star hotel located in the center of Oviedo. For €90 per night, you can enjoy a comfortable and cozy room in an excellent location. According to Booking.com, this hotel is highly recommended for couples. Additionally, if you prefer not to have breakfast at the hotel, you could visit Pioneros Coffee Roasters, which is just a 7-minute walk away.

If you’re searching for a small and comfortable hostel situated in the heart of Oviedo, La Hospedería de Oviedo is an excellent option. For just €50 per night, you can enjoy a lovely room with magnificent views of the city center. This hostel has received outstanding reviews for its amiable staff, cleanliness, and facilities. Additionally, it is conveniently located adjacent to Gascona Street.

If you want to try some authentic Asturian cider, take a stroll down Gascona Street - you’ll find the best bars for sidra there!

Map of Oviedo

How Much Does It Cost to Visit Oviedo?

Request information:  [email protected]

How much money you need for your trip to Oviedo depends on many things, such as how many people are traveling, the type of activities you want to do, accommodation, the duration of your stay, restaurants, and most importantly, the time of year.

To help you more accurately, please don’t hesitate to reach out to us via email! Share the details of your desired trip to Spain, and we will provide you with a price estimate and offer local advice for all your travel needs.

Choose your Spain Itinerary

1 Day in Spain? 10 Best Things to Do in 24 Hours!

2 Days in Spain: Trip Ideas & Itineraries to Enjoy Your 48h

3 Days in Spain: What’s the Best Itinerary for Your Trip?

4 Days in Spain - Best Travel Itineraries for Short Trips

5 Days in Spain: Itineraries to See (almost) Everything!

6 Days in Spain: The 3 Best Itineraries for Your Trip!

7 Days in Spain: The 3 Best Itineraries for Your Trip!

That’s it for Oviedo! However, Asturias has so much more to offer, and you can keep discovering activities through our blog.

Happy travels!

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Making the Most of Visiting Oviedo, Spain – A Customizable Guide

by Amalia and Eric Last updated Nov 13, 2023 | Published on Oct 20, 2022 Asturias , Europe , Spain , Travel , Travel Apps , Travel Itineraries

Tags: off the beaten path in Spain , travel guides , visiting Asturias , visiting Spain

There is a special part of Spain, its mystical and romantic history, that can best be experienced by visiting Oviedo. Standing among its lush green parks, picturesque architecture and ancient ruins, one can feel its tantalizing magic in the air. It is the capital city of Spain’s northern region of Asturias, which is steeped in folklore and known as the birthplace of the Reconquista . This area also has deep Gaelic influence going back centuries, complete with celtic crosses, bagpipes being played and kilts being worn by the local cultural groups.

As important as it is to Spanish history, Oviedo still tends to be a less-frequented destination in Spain, especially among Americans. Visiting Oviedo takes a traveler beyond the typical tourist experience of this popular European country.

I love visiting Oviedo and the historical city is dear to my heart, not only because nearby is where my Spanish family roots originated, but also due to its old-world charm, elegance, and natural beauty. It’s no surprise that I’ve visited numerous times over the past decade and have come to know it quite well. So to enrich your travels in Spain, I’ve created this customizable guide that provides curated recommendations from our first-hand experiences of visiting Oviedo.

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Table of Contents for Visiting Oviedo

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Tips for Visiting Oviedo

Where to stay when visiting oviedo, where to eat & drink when visiting oviedo, where to do & see when visiting oviedo, nearby day trips when visiting oviedo, where to get local artisan products & gifts when visiting oviedo, modes of transportation for visiting oviedo, map for visiting oviedo, get this guide app.

Above Image – The bronze statue of filmmaker Woody Allen, one of many statues throughout Oviedo.

I’ve been in Oviedo during summer months, in the fall, and for Christmas and New Year’s. If you really don’t like cold weather, then summer may be the best time for you to visit and is ideal for escaping the scorching heat in the southern parts of Spain. Just keep in mind that it can get quite humid and is warmer in the city of Oviedo than it is on the coast nearby.

The Fall season is beautiful for the fall colors and a cozy environment. Christmas was fantastic with the spectacular lights and manger scenes (belens) that were throughout the old town. It does get cold with temperatures averaging a low of 41 degrees fahrenheit in the winter.

Keep in mind that any time of year it tends to rain pretty frequently, so pack an umbrella, raincoat, and water resistant or waterproof shoes.

The town is an ideal size, not too big and not too small, and ideally located inland from stunning coastline and near majestic mountains.

Above Image – The front facade of the Hotel la Reconquista.

For a luxuriously, historical hotel stay:

Expand to read more.

The facade features Baroque style architecture and as soon as you step inside, you feel the warm luxury of the richly colored tapestries and traditional carpentry styles of northern Spain. One of my favorite spaces is the enclosed, main patio (or salon) which features a glass ceiling allowing natural light to shine in on the cozy seating arrangements. The rooms are a comfortable blend of modern amenities and old-world style with quality details. Several suites feature private terraces that look onto the open-air Castilian style courtyard with views of the towering dome of the attached chapel.

If you love staying in hotels that have historical charisma and detail to luxury, this is the place for you when visiting Oviedo.

For a sophisticated apartment stay:

The charming building is located in the quaint Plaza de Riego , which features a bust of my 4th great uncle, General Rafael del Riego . He was a Spanish general and liberal politician during the time of Napoleon and defended the first Constitution of Spain. If you like history, you should look more into his story. 

Just across the street are some of the older buildings of the University of Oviedo and nearby are popular sites that I share more about below, such as the Park San Francisco, the main Cathedral, museum of fine art, and more. 

If you’re a couple and desire a central location with quality, modern style, you’ll enjoy these accommodations when visiting Oviedo.

Above Image – The ‘casa rural’ Palacete Peñanora.

For a stay in an authentic, “casa rural” (country house):

Contact me to book this property at the best price and with an exclusive discount.

There is a splendid, window enclosed second floor verandah, which is very traditional of the older Asturian houses. The property sits on a landscaped property with brick paths and local foliage, affording views of the hilly countryside from inside and outside the home.

We stayed for four nights during Christmas weekend of 2021 with eleven family members and friends, and had the most amazing time. Features we especially loved were the wood burning fireplace, artisan tiles, tall french style windows, the gorgeous staircase, spacious rooms and kitchen, large wood dining table and outdoor kitchen. The location is still serviceable for local taxis as well, providing a convenient alternative for getting into Oviedo center without worrying about traffic and parking.

For families and groups who want the tranquility of the countryside and nearness of the town, this property is ideal for visiting Oviedo.

Where to Eat & Drink When Visiting Oviedo

Above Image – Enjoying one of my favorite drinks in Oviedo, ‘Solera’, at La Paloma.

Gastronomy is a major aspect of visiting Oviedo and the Asturians are known for eating very well. The region in general is especially known for their cheeses and it’s said that it is home to around 42 varieties of cheese.

One of their most renowned cheeses is “ Cabrales “, a cave-aged cheese similar to blue cheese and quite strong. With all this cheese, it makes sense that the region is known for raising cattle and this also means very good beef. Thanks to its beautiful coastline, good quality seafood is also easy to enjoy and very popular.

All of the recommendations listed here have been experienced by us, most more than once.

Get Your Drink On When Visiting Oviedo

For a quality cocktail , enjoy the classy bar in the Hotel la Reconquista. They also serve a bar menu of snacks and tapas. It’s a great place to relax in a more quiet and cozy atmosphere.

When visiting Oviedo, you must try the local drink of “Sidra” , which is Spanish cider, on the Gascona Boulevard of Cider (Bulevar de la Sidra) . This pedestrian street in the center of Oviedo is lined with nine “sidrerías” (cider houses) that serve up the refreshing, locally made cider and delicious, local food.

Are you a big craft beer fan? Then make sure to stop in at Cervecería Lord Vader . It’s has true pub style and they usually have at least eight craft beers on tap that rotate regularly from artisan brewers throughout Spain and Europe. There is also an impressive collection of bottled artisan beers from around the world. Located just outside the historical center, it’s in a neighborhood close to the newer university campus and the “fútbol” (soccer) stadium. It will also provide a great time experiencing the truly local vibe when visiting Oviedo.

Eat it Up, Yum! When Visiting Oviedo

Above Image –  The award winning Cachopo at La Corte de Pelayo.

To enjoy the traditional dishes of Asturias , make sure to have lunch or dinner in the sophisticated restaurant that is one of Oviedo’s most traditional places to eat, La Corte de Pelayo . From either of the restaurant’s two floors, enjoy delightful views of the Parque San Francisco and Campoamor Opera house. The first floor is ideal for a stylishly casual ambiance with a beautiful bar and the second floor has a more fine-dining environment. Try their award-winning Cachopo and traditional, house-made Solera drink .

For a chic, modern twist on local dishes and tapas , stop in at El Mono Que Lee . Located in the Plaza de Riego, it has a great ambiance both inside and outside on the terrace. Everything I’ve eaten there has been delicious, yet I especially recommend the house special, Ensaladilla Rusa del Mono (Russian salad), which features sashimi smoked salmon and white truffle oil. They also have house made vermouth and make their own whiskey .

Above Image – The delicious Ensaladilla Rusa at El Mono Que Lee.

One of the most local places you can eat and drink  at when visiting Oviedo is La Paloma . I remember first going there over ten years ago and even then it was great. Since then, they’ve only become more popular as they updated their brand and continued their specialities that they’re well known for. Make sure to enjoy the Fabada or Pote here, each one is a traditional stew-like Asturian dish. They are usually only served for lunch on certain days of the week so check in on their schedule of the daily “menu del día” (menu of the day). Wash it all down with their homemade Solera , the local barrel-aged vermouth drink that is a great aperitif and digestivo (digestive liquor). Make sure to book a table in advance.

READ MORE:  La Paloma – Our Favorite Lunch in Oviedo

For savoring good tapas and house made vermouth with a splendid view of the Cathedral, enjoy the outdoor seating at Pagos Viejos . Even though it attracts a lot of tourists because of its great location, it consistently maintains a good quality of food and drink. And the outdoor seating can’t be beat. Even the inside is charming and cozy, with a relaxed old world decor.

Above Image – The amazing spread at Restaurante Asador de Aranda.

For fine dining in an enchanting, romantic setting that feels like going back in time, enjoy dining at the Restaurante Asador de Aranda . They are well known for their specialty meat dishes done in a wood-fired oven, such as “cochinito” (roasted suckling pig) and lamb . The space is in a historical, renovated mansion in the center of town, just around the corner from the street of cider. It features a winsome, covered patio area hidden behind large intricately carved wooden doors. Inside is just as charming with various seating areas against a backdrop of tiled floors, stone walls, dark wooden beams, and brightly colored stained glass windows and ceilings. There is a small bar area delightful for a drink and tapa.

We had a New Year’s Day lunch here with family and were very impressed. Everything was delicious and we loved the details of the antique style plates and table settings. The manager himself came over to introduce himself and checked on us several times throughout our meal. Even though it is a chain and has restaurants in other major cities of Spain, it has wonderful food, service, and gorgeous ambiance. I would happily eat at their other restaurant locations in the future and look forward to returning to this location when visiting Oviedo again.

Another wonderful place for lunch or dinner is the El Fondín de Trascorrales , located in the Plaza Trascorrales. The outdoor and indoor seating is lovely and their Fabada is very good. My family and I had lunch here just before Christmas and everyone enjoyed their dishes.

Right next door is Restaurante El Raitán which also has wonderful Asturian food and a historically set ambiance inside. The outdoor terrace seating in the plaza is also nice. We had dinner there with my parents when they visited from the US and it was fresh and delicious.

At Aguaducho , enjoy some light tapas and drinks outdoors in the enchanting setting of the San Francisco Park. Relaxing here with a drink is always a must for me when visiting Oviedo. The small cafe consists of only outdoor seating under the canopy of towering trees. It affords lovely views of the park, nestled in between the duck pond and the ancient porticó ruins of the Convento de San Francisco that stood here long ago.

Above Image – Freshly made goodies at Confitería Rialto.

For the sweet finish of dessert, or a local breakfast with great coffee, stop in at one of the charming bakeries. Our favorites are the Confitería Rialto and Camilo de Blas , which also has a small deli and local goodies perfect for gifts.

What to Do & See When Visiting Oviedo

Above Image – Local Asturian folk performers in the University of Oviedo (old town campus).

Park San Francisco

Allow enough time to stroll through the Oviedo’s Parque San Francisco (San Francisco Park) because there is a lot to see in just this small city park. Admire the duck pond , romantic porticó ruins of the Convento de San Francisco , and the beautiful trees from around the world. There are even majestic peacocks strutting about in the park. Make sure to also enjoy the small cafe Aguaducho (mentioned above).

As you tour the grounds, keep your eyes open for the various statues throughout the park and the two large fountains at either end of the Paseo de los Curas where a library and the Kiosco de Música del Bombé (an old-fashioned gazebo for outdoor concerts) are located. This is also a splendid place for a picnic when the weather is nice.

Monte Naranco

To change things up from the center of town and enjoy beautiful views of Oviedo and the surrounding mountain ranges, spend at least half a day exploring the neighboring mountain of Monte Naranco .

You can walk the Pista Finlandesa along the bottom half of the mountain, visit the 9th century churches of Iglesia Santa María de Naranco and Iglesia de San Miguel de Lillo , and stand at the feet of the giant Sacred Heart of Jesus monument on the summit. These sites can also be driven to with a car.

University of Oviedo (Old Town)

See some of Oviedo’s most historical buildings by visiting the University of Oviedo in the old town and pass through its open-air inner courtyard.

Metropolitan Cathedral of San Salvador of Oviedo

One of the most important historical sites to see when visiting Oviedo is the Metropolitan Cathedral of San Salvador of Oviedo . Here, you can also see the monument of Alfonso II el Casto (7th King of Asturias) , the Jardín de los Reyes (Garden of the Kings) , and enjoy touring the Church Museum .

READ MORE:   Traditional Music of Asturias & The Oviedo Cathedral of San Salvador – Story + Video

Museum of Fine Arts of Asturias

Located in the plaza of the cathedral, is the enriching art experience of the Museum of Fine Arts of Asturias . The interior of the historical building itself is beautiful to see and showcases Spanish, Italian, and Flemish fine art going back as far as the middle ages and extending to the 20th century.

Various Bronze Statues

As you explore Oviedo, you’ll hopefully notice the various bronze statues, further evidence that art is very important to Oviedo. One of the more popular statues is even of the filmmaker Woody Allen, who the town obviously loved. There are at least twenty statues throughout the town. Our favorites are the statue of Woody Allen , La Regenta in the Cathedral Plaza, the Return of Williams B. Arrensberg (also fondly known as the traveler), and Rufo the Dog of Oviedo . To see all the statues, click here .

Other popular, historic sites to see when visiting Oviedo

• Plaza de Paraguas where outdoor concerts are occasionally held.
• Plaza de El Fontán , a colorful, flower-strewn historical building full of restaurants.
• Mercado El Fontán , a historical indoor market of local foods and fresh produce.
• Iglesia de San Isidoro el Real , the smaller church next to the Mercado el Fontán.
• Ayuntamiento de Oviedo , the local town hall in the Plaza de la Constitución. The Tourist Information Center of Asturias is also located here.
• Camino de Santiago , the Original Way route passess through Oviedo and is marked by the golden shells in the sidewalk. 

READ MORE: What We Love About Visiting Asturias, and Think You Will Too

Above Image – The coastal city of Gijon is only 30 minutes away by car or 35 minutes away by train.

Coastal City of Gijon

For a day trip outside of Oviedo, take the local train to Gijon on the coast, only a 35-minute trip away. In Gijon, you can enjoy the beautiful coastline and charming architecture of the largest city and major port in Asturias.

Sacred Mountain Site of Covadonga

Spend a day or two in the mountains visiting the sacred, national site of Covadonga. It is home to the impressive Basilica de Santa Maria la Real de Covadonga and the Sanctuary of Covadonga , which is a shrine built into a mountain cave with a pond and spring underneath. Then drive up the mountain road, or hike the trails, to the spectacular alpine Lakes of Covadonga at the edge of the majestic Picos de Europa. The lower part of Covadonga is about a 1.5-hour drive from Oviedo.

READ MORE:  Visiting Covadonga – 6 Tips to Enjoy One of Spain’s Sacred Sites

Where to Get Local Artisan Products & Gifts When Visiting Oviedo

Of course, once you start experiencing Oviedo, you’re going to want to take home some mementos of your trip.

The Camilo de Blas bakery and deli has a great variety of gourmet gastronomy gifts, such as local liquors, cheeses, and even some local craft beers.

For more gastronomy gifts and trinkets and ceramics, visit the shops and sidrerías on the Gascona Bulevar de Sidra (Boulevard of Cider) .

For souvenirs, enjoy the shop Alcordances , just across from the top of the Gascona Boulevard.

Above Image – A view traveling by train to Oviedo.

The highway is in good condition from Madrid to Oviedo, although it is a toll road and can average up to 20€ total from the various tolls. They can be paid with credit card. When coming from Madrid you also pass through the city of Leon. It is about a 4.5-hour drive. The highways and roads from the other cities along the northern regions are also pleasant to drive.

Fly into the Asturias Airport with plenty of direct flights from Valencia, Alicante, Madrid and Barcelona airports. These flights usually take around one hour.

• For a transfer/taxi to and from Oviedo, we highly recommend Asturias Airport Taxi .
• For taking a bus into Oviedo center, they leave at the top of each hour and take about 45 minutes. Tickets can be booked at Alsa.es . 

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Written by Amalia Maloney Del Riego

Fora Advanced Travel Advisor & Content Creator

I love living in Denia, Spain and traveling worldwide. My idea of a great time is ‘eating and drinking’ my way around a new place and meeting the people. As a Fora Advanced Travel Advisor , I specialize in custom travel planning for trips throughout Europe, as well as scouting trips for moving to Spain. Here on MoveToTraveling.com you can enjoy our Europe travel resources to experience Europe and live in Spain.

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Oviedo Travel Guide

Oviedo is the capital of Asturias. It is located in the northwest of Spain, roughly 20 kilometers away from the northern coast. The city is famous for its old architecture and its many historic sights. Furthermore, Oviedo is the only university city in Asturias. Here is our Oviedo travel guide, free to read for everybody!

In many ways, Oviedo is an underestimated travel destination. If you are into history and culture, you can spend several days there and marvel at the many great sights. Meanwhile, if you would like a calm vacation, the city is perfect once again: Oviedo might be the least stressful city ever, and it is one of the safest in Spain. Yet it still has great entertainment, such as a vibrant nightlife and plenty of regular events.

This guide should inform you about the most important things regarding Oviedo. And, of course, you can ask questions in the comment section if you’re curious about anything.

Facts about Oviedo

Here are some fun and useful facts to know about Oviedo:

• The capital of Asturias and one of the most important cities in northern Spain.
• Has a population of 220.000 people.
• Famous for its old architecture, particularly the cathedral.
• Just 30 minutes away from Gijón, the largest city of the region.
• Has a maritime climate, even though it is not located right by the coast.
• Many pilgrims walk through Oviedo on their way to Santiago de Compostela .
• An important university city – around 10% of the population are students.
• Nice and temperate weather for most of the year: Rarely too hot, but it can rain a lot.

History of Oviedo

According to some sources, Oviedo was founded by two monks in 761. It was supposed to be a hillside settlement with a small church. Before then, the area was uninhabited. Later on, King Alfonso I of Asturias liked the location and wanted to use it as his capital. It was a convenient place geographically, as the Asturian Kingdom was trying to defend itself against the Moors that had already taken control of most of Spain.

Initially, the idea was to make Oviedo look similar to the city of Toledo, due to its Visigoth influence. Even though some parts were inspired by Toledo, it ended up being a lot different, and Oviedo instead ended up with a late Roman style. Today, many visitors think that Oviedo is in some ways reminiscent to Santiago de Compostela. Particularly due to the impressions of the streets and architecture in the old part of Oviedo.

During the Middle Ages, the kings tried to make a wall around the city. Some parts still remain intact, and you can easily see it today. The university of Oviedo was established in 1574. In the following century, the city progressed a lot, and it expanded in all directions.

In more recent times, Oviedo has not claimed that much attention, except for a few occasions, such as the Siege of Oviedo in 1936 during the Spanish Civil War. The economy has changed from agriculture and industry into commercial services. The educational sector remains important, with over 10% of the population being students.

Most of Oviedo’s old architecture dates back to the 9th century. However, there is also a modern part of the city that has a distinctly different look. This is the part that started expanding during the 17th century, with big improvements being made in the 19th century.

What to do in Oviedo

When arriving in Oviedo, we highly recommend you to visit the old part of the city. Here you will find the majestic cathedral, narrow streets and great historic sights.

For more information on what to do in Oviedo, you can read our full article regarding sights and attractions in Oviedo. There’s a top 10 of the best things to see, and you’ll get special tips that you won’t find elsewhere.

Otherwise, simply enjoy the city, and do it in your own way. Visit the attractions that interest you the most, eat the food you enjoy the most, and be sure to remember all the memories after the trip is over!

How to get to Oviedo

There’s several ways to get to Oviedo. Here are the most common ones:

Asturias only has one airport. Conveniently, it is named Asturias Airport. Oviedo is around 47 kilometers away from it, and there is no direct train line connecting the two. Therefore, you have to take a car or a bus to get to the airport which almost always takes over an hour.

The airport has a lot of domestic routes to other Spanish cities – particularly to Madrid, Alicante and Valencia. However, there are occasional international connections, for example to London and Lisbon.

Most people do not get to Oviedo by airport, but rather by train.

Oviedo has a central train station with daily connections to several other Spanish cities. Every half hour, you can travel between Oviedo and Gijón .

The station also has a connection to Madrid. Renfe Alvia trains stop by at least three times per day, and it takes around four and a half hour to get to Madrid. Tickets cost around 20-30 euros if you book in advance.

Like any other mainland city, you can also drive to Oviedo. The travel time depends on your city of departure, so we can’t say much about that. But be aware that Oviedo is surrounded by mountains and that it can take a while to drive through Asturias, particularly in the southeastern side.

It is possible to rent a car in Oviedo, and that allows you to drive around in the region.

Read more about Oviedo

We have several other articles about Oviedo if you’re interested. You can read about the best attractions in the city, the best restaurants and most importantly the best places to stay.

You can also read about other cities in northern Spain, such as Gijón , Cudillero, Vigo , Santiago de Compostela , A Coruña, Santander and others.

Let us know below if you have any questions about Oviedo!

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The bourgeois culture of Oviedo is a contrast to the working-class ethos of its neighbours. As the Asturian capital, it has long been relatively wealthy, a history that can be traced through the grand, lovingly restored administrative and religious buildings that render the city among the most attractive in the north. The old quarter, all the better for being largely pedestrianized, is a knot of squares and narrow streets built in warm yellow stone, while the newer part is redeemed by a huge public park right in its centre. Throughout the city are excellent bars and restaurants, many aimed at the lively student population.

Santa María del Naranco

Oviedo also boasts three small churches that rank among the most remarkable in Spain, built in a style unique to Asturias. All date from the first half of the ninth century, a period of almost total isolation for the Asturian kingdom, which was then just 65km by 50km in area and the only part of Spain under Christian rule. Oviedo became the centre of this outpost in 810, as the base for King Alfonso II, son of the victorious Pelayo.

Around the cathedral, enclosed by scattered sections of the medieval town walls, a compact, attractive quarter preserves the remains of Old Oviedo. Much was destroyed in the Civil War when Republican Asturian miners laid siege to the Nationalist garrison; the defenders were relieved by a Gallego detachment when on the brink of surrender.

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The greatest Asturian church, indeed the architectural gem of the principality, is Santa María del Naranco, majestically located amid the fields on a wooded slope 3km above the city. It’s an easy signposted drive, or a 45min walk from the train station through the quiet suburb of Ciudad Naranco. The one drawback is that its impact is inevitably diminished by the huge tour groups that descend upon it in summer.

The initial glimpses of the warm stone and simple bold outline, in perfect harmony with its surroundings, led Jan Morris to describe it as “formidable beyond its scale”. If you don’t think it looks like a church, there’s a good reason for that – it wasn’t built as one. Instead it was designed as a palatial hunting lodge for Alfonso’s successor, Ramiro I (842–52), and only converted into a church at the end of that century. Architecturally, the open porticoes at both ends predate later innovations in Byzantine churches, while thirty or so distinctive decorative medallions skirt the roof.

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Asturias Is the Unsung Spanish Vacation Destination You Need to Visit This Year

By Paul Richardson

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Me and Asturias? We go way back. I first pitched up here in the mid-1980s as a backpacking student with an Interrail pass, riding the old-fashioned trains that rattled along the Cantabrian coast from Bilbao to La Coruña. I still remember my wide-eyed delight at seeing for the first time the verdant valleys rolling down to the sea, the huge beaches pummeled by big Atlantic breakers, the fishing villages stuck like limpets to the rocky coastline. Cold climates often imply caution and reserve, but there was a friendliness and warmth about the locals that reminded me—counter-intuitively, perhaps—of the laid-back Mediterranean.

Asturias is one of four regions along Spain's north coast, from Galicia in the west to the Basque Country in the east. The Principality of Asturias, as it’s officially known, brims with distinctiveness and diversity. It has its language, culture, and cuisine; its cool and damp climate harbors lush pastures, deciduous forests, and mighty mountain ranges. As a holiday spot, Asturias has historically been favored mainly by Spaniards, but as summer temperatures rise inexorably in the Med, a trickle of wised-up foreigners are choosing to take their vacations in these temperate northern climes.

The decades that followed that eye-opening Interrail trip saw me returning again and again. There was a memorable long weekend in Oviedo, the charmingly buttoned-up capital with its bustling provincial air; and another in Gijón—the polar opposite of Oviedo—a boisterous coastal town with a surf-tastic beach scene and a salty seaside vibe. In the rough-and-tumble harborside neighborhood of Cimadevilla in Gijón, I had my first swig of Asturian cider, which was poured in a thin stream into a flat-bottomed glass for a deliciously fresh (as well as intoxicating) draught.

More than anything, Asturias's food and drink kept me coming back for more. The wonderfully hearty local cuisine turns around classics like fabada asturiana, a rib-sticking stew of thumb-sized faba beans with cured pork meat and smoked sausage, and the creamy and unctuous rice pudding that is arroz con leche. I soon learned to value such fine asturiano ingredients as grass-fed beef and lamb, fish from the Cantabrian ports, and artisan cheeses—of which the region is said to have more individual varieties per square kilometer even than France . At a series of rustic eating houses run by the stalwart women cooks known as guisanderas (“stew-makers”), I ate my fill of down-home local favorites like onions stuffed with oxtail and maise-flour tortos with minced meat picadillo. But the excitement of new-wave Spanish cuisine had not passed the region by. A prime example was the restaurant Casa Marcial, which I first visited in the late 1990s when its chef-patron Nacho Manzano had not long been in charge of the rustic bar/shop/eatery previously run by his parents in the hamlet of La Salgar—and which now has three Michelin stars.

Over the decades, I must have made a dozen trips around this neck of the woods, making personal discoveries every time. One year, I spent a few days in the post-industrial town of Avilés, where Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer had just designed a new cultural center composed of curvaceous geometric forms in dazzling white. Driving east along the coast to Llanes, under the looming shadow of the Picos de Europa mountains, I was amazed to see how the concrete cubes of the harbor wall had been painted (by sculptor Agustín Ibarrola) in dazzling colors and madcap designs. All through the 2000s, I was obsessed with the unique Asturian heritage of pre-Romanesque churches dating from the sixth to ninth centuries. I plotted elaborate routes among these tiny, primitive, and almost unimaginably ancient buildings.

But if Asturias is big on culture, it’s even bigger on nature. The region has no less than 24 nature reserves, including a Parque Nacional and three of Spain’s largest Parques Naturales. Around a third of its surface area enjoys some sort of conservation status, making Asturias an ecological resource of inestimable value. Big treks in the deep country have long been a feature of my travels here. In the summer of 2009, in the company of mountain expert Guillermo Mañana, I made a four-day hike along the Camin Real de la Mesa, a Roman road winding spectacularly through the wild and lonely landscapes of Somiedo Natural Park. Wolves and bears still roam the silent valleys of the Principality’s unsullied interior, and a new kind of wildlife tourism has sprung up to cater for visitors keen to peer at them through telescopes. My bear-spotting safari with Wild Spain Travel in May 2022 was undoubtedly one of my life's most thrilling travel experiences.

Zahra Hankir

Levi Mandel

Hannah Towey

Charlie Hobbs

Meanwhile, Asturias and I have become like some cozy long-term couple, comfortable in each other’s company, but not yet at the point where familiarity breeds contempt. When summer heats frazzle the south of Spain, I still head north annually towards those pristine beaches, those rolling valleys lined with oak and chestnut woods. And the latest chapter of this particular love story is both a happy ending and a promising new start. Reader, I’ve just bought a house here.

Where to stay in Asturias

Solopalacio.

Nothing about SoloPalacio conforms to conventional notions of country-house luxury. First, there’s the location: way down south in a little-populated, little-visited corner of the region among grandiose mountain scenery and hardscrabble villages. Then there’s the back story. The country seat of the aristocratic Miranda-Quirós family, a rambling rural property in the hamlet of Llanuces, was rescued from ruin by Madrid entrepreneur Carlos Díaz. With his partner, designer Sofia Tejerina, Díaz transformed the property into a collection of 11 apartments occupying various outbuildings and a chapel plus the original 16th-century dwelling house, opening as SoloPalacio in June 2023. The USP here is Tejerina’s extraordinary design for the palacio – a radically stripped-down aesthetic employing basic and often humble materials to strikingly beautiful effect. (Think ‘wabi-sabi’ but without the shabby.) The high-ceilinged interiors are devoid of decoration beyond the occasional hand-woven basket or rustic implement; the walls are ruthlessly, unsparingly white. Colour has no place in this warm monastic minimalism: it’s all about the touchy-feely textures of polished- cement floors, bare stone walls and architectural-salvage furniture. Bathroom fixtures might be cheap hardware-store staples, yet the big squishy sofas are acres of cool white linen. Forget five-star fripperies like the big TV, the room service menu, the chocolate on the pillow - though a coffee machine and a bottle of Asturian wine would certainly be nice. On the plus side, there’s a stone-built Wellness Space and an infinity pool with mind-boggling mountain views. It may help to ease the pain of the room rate (whose high-season ceiling of 1059€ has caused quite a stir locally) to know that Diaz intends all profits from the hotel to go towards social projects and conservation schemes in the vicinity. As I said, SoloPalacio is anything but conventional.

Pueblo Astur

This thoroughgoing makeover of an entire country village (Cofiño, near Parres) raised the bar for high-end accommodation in Asturias when it opened in 2016. The sprawling property, which encompasses a church, traditional wooden paneras (granaries), and stables housing rare-breed farm animals, also includes 30 rooms in converted village houses, an excellent spa, river pools for swimming, and two restaurants using produce from the farm. The result is an interesting fusion of rusticism with highly geared luxe.

As Asturias’ brightest and boldest city and a seaside hub of urban culture often compared to Brighton in the UK, Gijón is just the right place for this sleek, chic boutique hotel in a carefully restored 1931 art-deco building.

CoolRooms Palacio de Luces

Asturias has never been prodigal in really fine hotels, but Palacio de Luces is a notable exception. First opened in 2006, it was recently acquired by the small but energetic Spanish group CoolRooms, who have made their mark on what was already a remarkable building, combining as it does a 16th-century mansion in pale yellow stone with a modernist wing surgically grafted on to the original buildings. Natural light floods in from all sides through plate-glass windows affording huge views of meadows and farmland, the coastline stretching away to east and west, and the hulking form of the Sueve mountain range. The 44 bedrooms, distributed equally between old and new wings, have undergone a total refit since the hotel changed hands in 2018, sweeping away the earlier incarnation’s dowdy brown-and-beige interior in favor of an elegant contemporary-classic look in a palette of greens that almost feels like a continuation of the landscape. Service, pitched five-star high, never feels starchy or formal. Nearby Lastres has some great eating places, but it’s worth staying for dinner at the hotel restaurant Tella. The views from the dining room, through floor-to-ceiling windows opened wide on summer nights, are as delectable as Francisco Ruiz’s new-gen Asturian cuisine with its emphasis on locally sourced produce and cunning nods to the region’s Latin American connections.

Casona de Indias

This bijou 7-room hotel in a former casa de indianos (built for a successful emigré on his return from the Americas) is beautifully sited in a quiet rural setting within reach of the Redes natural park. Owner-manager Pedro Armas is a madrileño incomer whose well-judged taste and hospitality make the casona feel like a particularly well-upholstered and civilized B&B.

Parador de Corias

A former monastery in the remote southwest of the region, this imposing granite building (known as “the El Escorial of Asturias”) is a stand-out among recent incorporations to the state-owned Paradores chain. Having arrived at this out-of-the-way location, be sure to visit the nearby nature reserve of Muñiellos, one of Europe’s largest areas of first-growth deciduous forest and a haunt of the Cantabrian brown bear.

Hotel de la Reconquista

The storied Reconquista in Oviedo, all red velvet and antique wood, where dignitaries and celebrities lay their heads during the annual Princess of Asturias awards, is the kind of hotel that Spaniards describe as “de toda la vida”— it’s been there forever .

Casonas Asturianas

Founded 30 years ago in 1994, this association of farmhouse stays, foursquare village houses, and stone-built historic palacios continues to offer exceptional quality and value. It’s worth browsing the website to find jewels like Villa Argentina in Luarca and Casona de la Paca in Cudillero, both examples of the extravagant modernista houses built by wealthy Asturians on their return from the Americas in the early years of the twentieth century.

Where to eat and drink in Asturias

Restaurante guëyu mar.

Top-quality fish and seafood landed at the small-scale fishing harbors along the Cantabrian coast is a major selling point of Asturian eating. This celebrated beachside restaurant at Playa de Vega does a great line in whole fish (try the virrey, a firm-fleshed local species) cooked over coals or a la plancha.

Address: Playa de Vega, 84, 33560 Ribadesella, Asturias, Spain Website: gueyumar.es

Casa Marcial

In the same former farmhouse where his parents once ran a rustic shop and bar, Nacho Manzano now presides over a three-Michelin-starred restaurant, generally agreed to be the region's finest, where the food is both inventive and sophisticated but never loses touch with Manzano's asturiano country roots.

Address: 33549 Arriondas, Parres, Asturias, Spain Website: casamarcial.es

Casa Chuchu

This no-frills locale in the post-industrial town of Mieres looks like a standard-issue Asturian cider house, but it's actually way more interesting. Rafael Rodríguez pours natural wines, cult sherries, and new-wave ciders while his wife Natalia Menéndez serves a market-led menu that, depending on the day and season, might run from shellfish salpicón and stuffed onions to roast beetroot with anchovy and hazelnuts and hake with fresh apple and cucumber sauce.

Address: El Parque, s/n, 33610 Turón, Asturias, Spain Website: instagram.com/casachuchu

Calle Gascona

Cider is a pillar of Asturian life, and cider houses abound in the region. They usually serve plates of fried pixín (monkfish) and platters of cheese along with cider by the bottle. This Oviedo street, teeming with sidrerías, is good for a total immersion in cider culture and its curious customs, like the escanciado: The drink is oxygenated by expert servers pouring it from an arm’s height.

Address: C. Gascona, Oviedo, Asturias, Spain Website: gasconaoviedo.es

Vino de Asturias

Visitors to the deep green landscapes of the southwest corner of Asturias are often surprised to see vineyards among the oak and chestnut woods. In fact, wine has been made here since the ninth century, but is currently undergoing a revival, now with its own quality seal (Denominación de Origen Cangas) and forward-thinking bodegas like Antón Chicote, La Muriella, and Monasterio de Corias.

Address: Centro de Empresas de Obanca, 33800 Cangas del Narcea, Asturias Website: docangas.es

Asturias is one of our Best Places to Go in Europe for 2024 , part of our global guide to the Best Places to Go in 2024 —find more travel inspiration here .

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• Mini guide to Oviedo- the hidden gem of Spain

If you’ve ever heard of Asturias, then you’re way ahead of the curve.

This hidden corner of Spain is little-known to outsiders but it’s somewhere that’s worth getting to know. The city of Oviedo is the regional capital and the cultural heart, a great place to explore on a budget if you’re looking for a true taste of Spain.

Oviedo: Spain’s ‘Natural Paradise’

Getting There

Getting there is surprisingly easy, given its relative obscurity. easyJet have daily flights to Asturias Airport from London Stansted from as little as £30 in November ; from there you can get a direct bus into Oviedo for 5 euros, which takes about half an hour.

Otherwise you can fly into Madrid and then take a coach or train north. It’s a bit of a journey, but worth it for the views along the way.

Where to Stay

Oviedo offers some lovely individual hotels at very decent prices; try Hotel Vetusta or try City Express Covadonga for budget accommodation in the heart of the city (from £35 per night) or for a bit more luxury, try the Nap hote l a 15-minute walk from the centre (from £40 per night).

Obese Madonna and child occupying the central square, Oviedo

Exploring the city

When you first arrive, Oviedo can seem like a very genteel, civilised place, but you will soon see that there is a whole lot of craziness beneath the surface. You could spend an entire day finding all the statues dotted around, from the obese Madonna and child occupying the central square, to Woody Allen outside a sweet shop. They certainly come in handy for navigating you way around!

For the best local food in Oviedo head for Tierra Astur

Exploring the Old Town is a must, and at night it really comes to life.

Calle Gascona  is the best street to sample the local cider and the very particular customs involved! It’s always bustling and rowdy, but great fun. For the best local food, head for Tierra Astur at the top of the street; it’s a little more expensive than the other sidrerias, expect to pay about 20 euros for a meal there, but it’s well worth it. In the others, expect to pay about 15 euros for a full meal, or you can get tapas for about 3 euros per dish.

Look out of the  menu del dia  in the daytime; this is a set menu at a low price, usually around 8 or 9 euros. A bottle of cider will only set you back 1 or 2 euros, so expect to get through a lot!

Great experiences, low cost

If you can time your visit with one of the national festivals, such as Mardi Gras in March or San Juan in June. They have to be the best free events; you’ll get to experience Oviedo’s very own Celtic celebrations, complete with bagpipe players! If not, there are often various smaller events taking place all year round, usually in the cathedral square in the Old Town, so just go there during a weekend to see what’s going on.

Finally, if you’re up for a physical challenge, why not visit Oviedo’s own Christ the Redeemer? From the city, he looks tiny, but it’s a pretty impressive structure up close. It does mean a fair old trek up the mountain, but you’ll be rewarded with stunning views across Spain’s ‘natural paradise’ and the sense that you have discovered something special.

About the author

I grew up in Salisbury, in the south of England, but I caught the travel bug aged 18 on a trip to Morocco. I spent a year living in France and Spain as part of my degree before roadtripping in the USA.

I blog about all my adventures at my blog Starry Eyed Travels  where I get to share my other passions; writing and photography

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Yey, I am glad that someone has finally written about this city! My grand father’s family is from there and still lives there. I had the pleasure of visiting them once and had the best calamari and jamon in my life!! Thanks for sharing and for the pix. Great memories.

It is a beautiful city. Glad you enjoyed Katy’s piece. Katy’s account and stories from her time in Oviedo have definitely inspired me to visit next year

I still have to get to Oviedo one day 🙂 Heard just great things about it!

I visited Oviedo many years ago now. I have fond memories of it but the only thing I remember clearly is the food and one dish in particular which was wild boar, simply delicious! I’d like to return one day.

Wild Boar -must have tasted wow. Food is great in these parts of Spain. Thanks for sharing the memory, got me thinking about lunch now….. 🙂

Hey Katy, We have been checking out your blog and we must say that we are really impressed. It’s really great.

We have particularly been following your posts about Oviedo as we visited there too. We have even written a guide, which you can check out here: http://hitchhikershandbook.com/country-guides/spain-2/oviedo/ We would live your feedback and any tips, information, advice that you might have would be warmly appreciated.

Keep up the good work!

http://www.HitchHikersHandbook.com Ania & Jon

Hi Ania and Jon

Kash, ed and founder of BudgetTraveller…glad you liked the blog and Katy’s guide to Oviedo.

Will check out your blog and have a peek at the guide..thanks for dropping by.

Stay in touch 🙂

Thank You For Sharing I Support U I Love Spain

Thanks Deborah! If you love Spain and its wonderful food, check out Jack’s ‘Cheap Eats Guide to Tenerife’ on the blog today 🙂

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I moved to Spain from Texas. I can't imagine returning to the US — life is too good here.

• Jeronimo Noriega, a student from San Antonio, moved to Spain and never plans to return to the US.
• Noriega appreciates Spain's work culture, public transportation, and affordable dining experiences.
• Though he misses friends and US customer service, Noriega doesn't plan to move back.

This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Jeronimo Noriega, a 27-year-old student who lives in Spain. It's been edited for length and clarity.

I moved to Oviedo, Asturias in Northwest Spain after growing up in San Antonio and I don't think I'll ever move back to the United States.

If that shocks you, it surprised me too. I never thought I'd live in Europe — I'd never even been there before my siblings and I agreed to move to Spain with my parents. Although I was born in Mexico, I spent most of my life living in the US so moving to Spain was a big difference.

When my family decided we needed a change, we chose Spain because it felt like a natural fit — my grandparents spent their lives living between Spain and Mexico. Although I'm Mexican-American and fluent in Spanish , settling in Spain was initially difficult because my Spanish-speaking skills were rusty after living in America.

Once I started getting more comfortable in the local dialect, I felt more comfortable living in Spain. I've lived here for 14 months and I have a much better quality of life in Spain than I had in the US.

I feel anxious when I get in a car now because I'm so used to walking and taking public transportation in Spain

When I lived in the US, I constantly felt like I was sitting in traffic or relying on my car to get places, but in Spain I just walk everywhere. I'm never stuck in a car. It's not only better for the environment, it's healthier for me too.

The sense of community is so strong here. When I walk around my neighborhood, people say hi to each other and it's so lovely. You don't have that part of the day when you're in your car in America. I love being out in the world while I'm getting from one place to the next and not just siloed in my car.

Living in Spain has shown me there's a different way to exist

I love the work culture in Spain. In America, I felt like my only options were to rise and grind and get beat down by the machine, but everything is different here. In Spain, they seem to value their lives over their work — it's not even a work-life balance .

People take three-hour lunches and drink a bottle of wine before going back to the office or they stop in the middle of the afternoon for a leisure espresso break. It was kind of difficult to transition into that lifestyle because I was so used to the American way of life where work is everything. Even through college, I was constantly working and grinding my life away.

When I first moved to Spain, I felt like I was really lazy. I wondered, what am I doing? I should be working myself to the bone. But then I started to see how Spaniards live and I wanted that level of freedom and joy. Now, I attend a community college and spend my days studying, going to class, and drinking espresso and wine at cafés.

It's normal to go to a wonderful dinner that costs $11 per person, in Spain

I love the restaurant scene. It's not even strange to linger at a table for four or five hours — it's normal. I remember eating dinner in the US and feeling like the waitress was judging me if I didn't leave right after I finished eating. Everything is slower in Spain and it's lovely.

I can buy a coffee for the equivalent of a few dollars and not feel bad about lingering in the coffee shop for a few hours to hang out.

I don't see moving back to the US in my future

My parents asked me the other day if I'd ever consider moving back to the US and I was so struck by the question that I made a TikTok about it. The short answer is: never say never, but I don't see it in my future.

I definitely miss my friends, but I wouldn't let that keep me from life in Spain. I also miss the American customer service — it's so friendly and personable, but maybe that's because of the tipping culture . In Spain, I've noticed that customer service doesn't reflect the level of that in the States unless you're at a high-end restaurant.

Now that I've had a taste of what life is like outside the rat race, I'm not eager to get back on the wheel. Life is long, and you never know what will happen, but I'm staying here for the foreseeable future. All I have to do is take a walk to the coffee shop, have a delicious dinner for $11, or take a break in the middle of a weekday to remind myself why I'm staying.

Correction: January 9, 2024 — An earlier version of this story misspelled the name of the person who moved to Spain. His name is Jeronimo Noriega , not Geronimo.

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